As we launch our Greentraveller's Guide to Pelion, Clare Hargreaves surveys the foodie scene of the Pelion peninsula, the mountainous boot that sweeps its heel into the Aegean Sea midway between Athens and Thessaloniki. Greece’s Pelion Peninsula is where bare rocky landscapes give way to lush sweet chestnut woods that jostle for space with fruit orchards and olive groves, gurgling streams and fountains, and stone and slate villages that tumble down the flanks of mighty Mount Pelion. Homer aptly dubbed it the land of “quivering foliage.” Such vegetation spawns a rich natural larder, which make Pelion’s food offering unique. Here you’ll find slow-cooked meat stews, grilled fish that’s just come off the boat, delicately stuffed cabbage leaves resembling tiny silk-wrapped parcels, and filo-pastry vegetable pies that provide perfect portable fuel for hikes along the peninsula’s cobbled kalderimia (mule paths). It’s creative, honest and delicious. Recipes reflect the peninsula’s many foreign influences too, but whatever the dishes, they use local, fresh and seasonal ingredients. Here cooks are rooted in their native soils, and rightly proud of it. Many even grow their own. The settings in which you eat are as unpretentious as the food itself; who needs fancy decor when you have the shade of a plane tree on a cobbled village square, or a beach with a view across the turquoise waters of the Aegean? Restaurants and tavernas are laid-back places where friends and families relax together over food, invariably watched by stray dogs and cats who hover for titbits. There are table-clothed exceptions, of course, such as some of the hotel restaurants in Tsagarada and Portaria, and at The Six Keys in Afyssos, where superchef Ioannis Baxevanis is wowing diners with his contemporary cutting edge cuisine. But in general, eating in a Pelion restaurant is like joining the owner around their personal kitchen table. Greeks also know how to juggle their food with their drink. In Pelion, the latter usually means tsipouro, a fire-water made from the pomace of grapes after they’ve been pressed to make wine. It’s served in tsipouro tavernas known as tsipouradika - choose with or without aniseed (the first making it like ouzo). In the old days, Peliot men drank tsipouro on its own, but the influx of refugees from Asia Minor in 1922 introduced the idea of combining it with mezedes (hors-d’oeuvres). So today, for every 50ml miniature I ordered, a different delicacy was brought to the table. Menus, and the stress of deciding what to choose, are dispensed with; and you can eat your way through the chef’s repertoire. I did just this at a tsipouradiko on the harbour front in Volos, on Pelion’s northwest corner. Ingredients, awaited with excitement, chart the year’s passing months. Visit in spring and you’ll feast on omelettes made with wild asparagus, and spot locals perched on rocks like goats to harvest rock samphire, succulent and aniseedy, or tsitsiravla, the tender shoots of the wild pistachio tree. Both are pickled in brine, to be enjoyed throughout the year as a meze with tsipouro or a classy salad garnish. Other wild greens are gathered by the armful to be stuffed into pies, sometimes bulked out with trahana - cracked wheat that’s been boiled with soured milk. Or they’re gently sautéed and topped with eggs, to make one of Pelion’s simplest yet most delicious dishes. June sees the arrival cherries as large as golfballs, celebrated at a festival in the mountain village of Agios Lavrentios. Many are preserved in a sugar syrup to make “spoon sweets”, traditionally offered by housewives to welcome guests (dentists look away). Pick of the crop is vissino (sour cherry), perfect with yoghurt as pud. Visit the Women’s Agritourism Cooperative in Vyzitsa and you can watch the village ladies making spoon sweets and jams the way they’ve been made for millennia. Summer sees the arrival of juicy chin-slathering melons and figs, and of tomatoes, which are thrown into salads or scrambled with eggs to make strapatsada. It’s the season too for green peppers - spetza - which give the name to spetzofai, Pelion’s most celebrated dish which combines fried green peppers and grated tomatoes with chunks of local sausage. Eleni Karaiskou, who owns Pelion’s much-loved Kritsa restaurant, and taught me to make spetzofai at her farm-based cookery school, swears by the veal sausages made by Drosos butchers in Volos. Traditionally though, sausages would have been made from goat or mutton with a bit of pork. For meat, goat and chicken rule the roost, often enjoyed as gidha lemonati (goat stewed in a lemon sauce) or kokoras me hilopites (casseroled rooster with homemade pasta). In winter the must-eat meat is wild boar, which Kritsa slow-cooks with tomatoes, plums and chestnuts. Pelion’s big thing, though, is apples. Visit Zagora in late summer, and its steep hillsides groan with aromatic apples, mainly firiki, a small oval altitude-loving variety. Cooks pop them into pies or bake them in the oven with cinnamon and honey. And thanks to its diminutive size, it’s a perfect candidate for preserving in a sugar syrup. My top apple delicacy, though, is petimezi, Pelion’s answer to balsamic vinegar, made by boiling firikiauntil they turn into a thick syrup that’s as dark as tar - wonderful on breakfast pancakes and on salads. In autumn, mushrooms and chestnuts litter the floor of the chestnut forests covering the peninsula’s eastern flanks. If you want to learn how to tell your boletus (known locally as ‘Little Monks’) from your parasol, join mushroom-mad Filaretos Psimmenos on a foraging expedition, then enjoy a garlicky fry-up in his Amanita guesthouse just outside Tsagarada. While mushrooms are generally pan-fried, chestnuts are prepared every which way - from bottled in a sugar syrup (of course!) to gently boiled to create a sauce to accompany pork or veal. Try the veal and chestnut humdinger dish at Tsagaradha’s Aleka’s House restaurant - or if you’re needing a sugar kick, go straight to their rum and chestnut puree dessert. Come in October and you can dance your way through the Chestnut Festival at tiny Xourichti. Last, but not least, there’s wine - and it’s good. Organic vineyards such as Milea and Patistis are producing some very quaffable wines - try Milea’s Merlot, and from Patistis, the Limnio with Xinomavro (both names of grapes) or the Xinomavro blanc du noir. No wonder the gods, according to Greek legend, chose Pelion for their holidays. They were clearly foodies. Text and photos by Clare Hargreaves == Disclosure: Clare Hargreaves was a guest of the Greece National Tourist Organisation and Volos Pelion. Clare had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Pelion in the autumn of 2018 for our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion. All opinions are the author's own.

As we launch our Greentraveller's Guide to Pelion, Clare Hargreaves learns about the culture and heritage of this peninsula between Athens and Thessaloniki. Giants, centaurs, Olympian gods and demi-gods, Jason and the Argonauts…. the Pelion Peninsula is steeped in mythology. As a visitor, it’s reassuring to learn that Pelion was where the gods living on nearby Mount Olympus spent their summer holidays. As I discovered, it’s not hard to see why. Pelion’s mythical centaurs, half-man half-horse, supposedly born of the union of the shameless Ixion and the long-suffering Nepheli. Were these mysterious creatures a symbolic representation of the taming of the wild horse? Who knows. But what we do know is that the most celebrated was Chiron, tutor of many a Greek hero from Jason to Theseus and Achilles, and renowned for his knowledge of the area’s herbs (which still perfume its wooded slopes). Travel anywhere on Pelion and you’ll find cafes, hotels and bars named after Chiron or his fellow centaurs. Pelion’s other major claim to fame is as the source of the timber that built the Argo, the legendary ship in which Chiron’s pupil, Jason, set out for the Black Sea in search of the golden fleece. Jason, who was rightful heir to the throne of Iolcos (modern Volos, in Pelion’s northwest corner), set out on his quest because his uncle Pelias had murdered Jason’s father Aeson and was planning to kill Jason too. As his fellow Argonauts, Jason signed up all the biggest names of Greek mythology, from Heracles to Theseus and Orpheus. The Argo was essentially the first oared vessel ever made, signalling the start of navigation as we know it. But you don’t need to rely on your imagination to picture it; the locals have deployed ancient shipbuilding techniques to build an immaculate 50-oar replica in the habour in the centre of Volos, which has been used it to retrace Jason’s fascinating 1,200-nautical-mile-long route. For centuries, Pelion remained isolated due to its thick vegetation and inaccessible Aegean-facing coast. But from the 10th century, monks from Mount Athos, to the northeast, started building monasteries here where inhabitants could keep safe from pirates. Pelion became known as the second Mount Athos, the “Mountain of Cells.” Look at the names of many of Pelion’s villages, and it’s easy to see their monastic origins: Agios Lavrentios, Agios Giorgios, Makrinitsa (from the Monastery of the Virgin Mary of Makrinitissa) and so on. Villages mushroomed around the old monasteries, eventually turning into small autonomous republics that prospered from making wool and silk and growing olives and timber. As their wealth increased during the 18th and 19th centuries, villages employed craftsmen from Epirus to hew cobbled squares, fountains, stone-paved paths and bridges from the local schist stone. Such was their skill that the peninsula’s two dozen villages, whose stone-tiled roofs glisten like fish scales when it rains (and it does!), appear to sprout effortlessly from the chestnut and beech forests in which they stand. Some like Milies, on the west coast, and Zagora, on the east, used their new-found wealth to set up schools and libraries and became centres of learning. Today, Pelion’s best preserved villages are Makrinitsa, with its views over Volos, and further south, the west coast villages of Pinacates and Vyzitsa, all with tranquil squares complete with ubiquitous plane trees under which locals sip tsipouro (the local firewater). In summer, squares turn into open-air dance floors or the site for religious rituals, as locals mark saints’ feast days or celebrate local foods. It’s the architecture of Pelion’s archontika (mansions) that took my breath away -majestic, fortified tower-like edifices, whose projecting wood-framed top floors are in stark contrast to the almost windowless, stone floors below. Designed to keep both harsh winters and unwanted foreigners at bay, they’re ornate yet austere, incongruously tall yet at the same time perfectly blended with the villages they stand in. Relax over a herbal mountain tea in their airy rooftop hagiatia (lounges) and you could be in the Middle East: cushioned benches line the walls, topped by small, wood-shuttered windows, then even dinkier stained glass ones. Happily, many of these mansions have been turned into guesthouses - like the 1791-built mansion now run by Mahi Karayiannopoulou in Vyzitsa, with wonderful painted ceilings in its upstairs quarters and fireplaces in most of the rooms. Mahi tells me her grandfather bought the house in 1956, but after securing the roof, left it empty for 20 years. The Greek Tourist Organisation then helped to renovate it (and others), and in 1988 it opened as a guesthouse. In the 19th century, many took on Egyptian-style features, such as lob arcs and ironwork balconies, as Peliots emigrated to Egypt (with whom they’d traded silk) in search of a better life. Many made fortunes in cotton or tobacco, accumulating riches and artefacts that they sent back to their homeland. You’ll spot fine examples of Egyptianate mansions in Portaria, just above Volos. But my favourite is the grand neo-classical mansion in Tsagarada now housing The Lost Unicorn hotel. Another key chapter of Pelion’s history, its struggle for independence, is recounted by the naive frescoes exhibited in another mansion, a few kilometres down the mountain, in Anakasia. They’re painted by folk painter and eccentric Theofilos Hatzimihail. Born in around 1870 on Lesvos, Theofilos spent long periods in Pelion, often dressed up in traditional costume, painting murals in cafes and mansions in return for meals. One of the loveliest examples of his work is his 1912 fresco on the wall of the kafeneion in Makrinitsa where you can make out the figure of Greek independence leader Katsandonis carousing with his soldiers as hostile Turks loom on the horizon. Towards the end of my trip, I braved the hairpin roads along Pelion’s rugged spine to reach the village of Milies for a taste of its industrial past - in the form of its famous ‘Moutzouris’ train, the smallest of its kind in Greece. The steam-train was built by Italian engineer Evaristo de Chirico, chuffing into commercial operation between Milies and Volos in 1903 at a dizzy speed of 12 miles an hour. The train fell into neglect in the seventies, but has since returned to the rails as a tourist attraction. There are wonderful views over the glassy Pagasitic Gulf as the train snakes through the chestnut woods to the village of Ano Lechonia.I continued to Volos, its fast-moving highways a poignant contrast to the tranquil pace of the history-steeped villages. Old and new co-exist in Pelion - much as they have since the centaurs clip-clopped along their cobbled paths. Text and photos by Clare Hargreaves == Disclosure: Clare Hargreaves was a guest of the Greece National Tourist Organisation and Volos Pelion. Clare had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Pelion in the autumn of 2018 for our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion. All opinions are the author's own.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of characterful places to stay in the peninsula. Pelion has it all. Choose between living it up in 5-star luxury and winding up a day on the beach with a wallow in the spa; a simple guesthouse nestled in the chestnut woods, where you hang out with the owner and breakfast on their homemade pies and jams; Or if you want something completely different, stay in one of the grand stone mansions that grace Pelion’s mountain villages. Pelion is open for business all year round, including in winter when snow cloaks its densely-wooded peaks. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Pelion 12 Months Resort Luxury Resort hotel, Tsagarada Hidden discreetly in the chestnut woods and built in Pelion’s traditional style, 12 Months skillfully blends natural beauty with relaxed luxury. In fact, with 20 swanky apartments, each with a view of mountain, garden or sea, it’s a village in itself. After a day on one of the area’s pristine beaches or a coffee under the 1000-year-old plane tree on Tsagarada’s square, head for the sauna or the hammam in the resort’s spa, or work out in the gym or on the tennis court, before sampling the international cuisine in its stone-floored Melia restaurant. Great for families. 12hotel.gr Hotel Portaria, Portaria With its plane-tree-shaded square, cobbled footpaths, and stunning views, Portaria offers the first real taste of the mountains as you approach Pelion from Volos, so is popular with weekenders all year round. This hotel, right at the top, is its most luxurious offering, with 80 rooms, including 7 suites and 4 family apartments, as well as an outdoor pool and well-equipped spa. For food, choose between traditional local dishes or international cuisine, enjoyed by the fireplace in its main restaurant or in summer, outside on the verandah. It’s also a great base if you want to ski at nearby Agriolefkes. portariahotel.gr Hotel Aglaida, Tsagarada Turn off the road that snakes down from Tsagarada to Pelion’s steep-shelving Aegean coastline, and these white-washed apartments are your final stop - so you won’t find a quieter spot from which to watch the sun rise over the neighbouring islands of Skiathos and Alonissos. The unfussy rooms all have balconies and basic cooking facilities, though the owners do a cracking Pelion breakfast, including homemade wild greens pie, loukoumades (fried doughnuts) and strapatsada (eggs scrambled with tomatoes). Walk it off with a hike to Fakistra beach, below, one of the region’s loveliest. aglaida-apartments.gr Amanita guesthouse, Tsagarada The air here is heavy with the scent of sage and rosemary and at night, nightingales or cicadas sing you to sleep. Filaretos and Marianne both abandoned high-flying jobs in Athens to transform a ruin-in-the-woods into the immaculate boutique guesthouse it is today. Rooms are simple but stylish, most with fireplaces too. Marianne will show you the garden’s herbs, while Filaretos will whisk you off to forage mushrooms. Herbs, mushrooms and fruits and vegetables from the garden come together at breakfast time for a gastronomic feast. amanita.gr Lost Unicorn Hotel, Tsagarada Walk along the cobbled path from the village square and through the front door and you’ll need to pinch yourself to remember you’re not in an English country house. Chandeliers, model unicorns and a baby grand piano adorn the characterful library, sitting room and dining room, while the eight antique-furnished rooms upstairs could be from a period drama. Owners Clare, from England, and Greece-born Christos, met while Clare was touring Greece as a professional dancer. He does the cooking, from breakfast (full English if you want it) to dinner, which in summer you can enjoy on its clematis-draped terrace. lostunicorn.com Karagiannopoulou traditional guesthouse, Vyzitsa This archontiko (mansion) constructed in 1791 in the enchanting mountain village of Vysitsa, is one of its oldest survivors from the era. Sleep in one of its wood-panelled bedrooms, and relax with a mountain tea under the magnificent painted ceiling of the upstairs sitting room with its low-cushioned benches and stained glass windows. Breakfast, properly Greek and homemade, is served on the tranquil terrace or by the fireplace in the mansion’s cosy ground-floor stone kitchen. Try one of owner Mahi Karayiannopoulou’s apple or savoury pies, and the local honey. karagiannopoulou.com Karamarlis boutique hotel, Makrinitsa No wonder they call Makrinitsa “Pelion’s Balcony.” The views from this stone village across the Pagasitic Gulf, are mind-blowing. And there’s nowhere to appreciate them better than this gorgeous mansion, stylishly yet sensitively restored by the Karamarlis family who have lived here since 1800. Its warren-like rooms are all different, but many retain original wooden floors and ceilings, and some have fireplaces too. Breakfast (including vegetable pies, halva and rice pudding) is served in its neoclassical-style cafe-lounge, and homemade fare and drinks, such as its hot chocolate with homemade rose liqueur, are available throughout the day. archontikakaramarlis.gr Sakali boutique hotel, Pinacates Boutique hotels don’t get much slicker than this; housed in a restored mansion on the fringes of one of Pelion’s prettiest and remotest west-coast mountain villages. Drool over the sea views as you down a cocktail on the terrace after a swim in the pool, chill out in Pinacates village square and visit its historic church, or follow cobbled footpaths to neighbouring villages. Bedrooms have fabulously comfy antique beds, original art, handmade rugs and multi-jet showers. And breakfasts, served in an annexe, include homemade pastries and jams. From October to April there’s also a spa. sakalihotel.gr Villa Gayannis, Zagora Today Zagora, on Pelion’s northeast corner, is famed for its apple orchards its famous 18th-century library. Many of its fortress-style mansions, including this old merchant’s house from 1770, were built during this period. Rooms are simple, but with its massive gardens and views of the Aegean, it’s a wonderful place to relax. If you’re feeling active, owner Nicolas Gayannis will guide you to the nearby beach of Horefto, or in winter, to the ski station at nearby Agriolefkes. Villagayannis.gr Alatinos, Pinacates Pinacates is one of Pelion’s most unspoiled villages. What makes this simple stone-built guesthouse special is its central location, just off the cobbled square and its marble fountains, so you can immerse yourself into village life. En-suite rooms have spectacular views across the Pagasitic Gulf. Breakfast is served on the ground floor. For other eating and drinking, you’re spoiled for choice, as there’s a cafe on the main street above the village and at the end, an excellent taverna (Y Drosia). An excellent budget option. alatinos.gr

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of historical, cultural and heritage visitor attractions. Giants, centaurs, Olympian gods, Jason and the Argonauts... Pelion is steeped in myth and history, so you’re never short of places to explore. Relive its mythical past by admiring the 50-oared replica of Jason’s Argo in the harbour at Volos, or dig into its Neolithic roots with a trip to the port’s archaeological museum. In the villages on Mount Pelion’s forested flanks, sip a coffee in the square encircling Greece’s oldest plane tree or visit churches and mansions painted with whimsical frescoes. Or if that’s too exhausting, chuff through the olive groves on its tiny train. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Pelion Steam train in Milies (pictured above) Pelion’s dinky steam train - the smallest in Greece - is one of its most precious relics. Designed by Italian engineer Evaristo de Chirico, father of the painter Giorgio de Chirico, it first chuffed along the west coast from Volos to Milia in 1903, providing a vital means of transport for Pelion’s inhabitants. Today it provides a wonderful train journey from Lehonia (it will soon be extended to start from Volos) chugging its way up the slopes of Mount Pelion at speed of 25km/hour though the villages of Ano Gatzea, Agia Triada, Agios Athanasios of Pinakates and Aryureika to end at Milies. En route you can admire the views over the Aegean, the unique bridges of de Chirico, a five-arched bridge and straight metal bridge with a curving rail line. Great for families. Athanasakeio archeological museum, Volos Pelion’s Neolithic settlements of Sesklo and Dimini, west of Volos, are fascinating. In both, archaeologists have discovered houses and graves dating back as far as 6000BC. If you don’t have time to visit them, this museum, housed in a fine neo-classical building and named after its founder, is a good second best. Artefacts retrieved from the Sesklo and Dimini include bones, jewelry, household utensils, agricultural tools and even carbonised corn. Particularly eye-catching are the figurines and exquisitely decorated household pots. The museum also has halls with representations of Neolithic graves. efamagvolos.culture.gr/Mouseio_Volou.html Chestnut Festival, Xourikhti Pelion excels at putting on food festivals. But don’t imagine neatly ranked stalls and chef demos. Here festivals celebrate the region’s culture too, so dancing and music are usually firmly on the menu too. October’s Chestnut Festival in the tiny mountain village of Xourikhti, in the chestnut woods near Tsagarada, is no exception. So while you can buy locally foraged chestnuts by the kilo and feed on homemade cake, you also get generous portions of Zorba-style dancing by villagers togged in traditional costume. Pelion also has festivals to celebrate the peach, cherry, apple, melon and olive. Rooftile and Brickworks Museum, Volos Immerse yourself in bricks, tiles and chimneys in this unusual museum charting Volos’ recent industrial past. It’s on the site of the rooftile and brickworks factory run here by the Tsalapatas family from 1926 to 1978. Using clay mined near the Neolithic settlement of Dimini, west of Volos, by the early 1930s it employed over 200 workers who produced seven million bricks and two million rooftiles a year. View the French 1907-built locomotive and raven-black wagons that transported coal to its kiln. The latter was designed by German engineer Friedrick Hoffmann, and its 20 brick-lined chambers make an impressive sight. Argo ship, Volos The story of Jason and the Argonauts is well known, but did you know you can visit a replica of the oared vessel in which they travelled to Colchis on the Black Sea in search of the Golden Fleece? In 2004-2006 local craftsmen used ancient shipbuilding techniques and timber from Mount Pelion to craft a copy of the 50-oar Argo, originally named after its builder, Argus. In 2009, with a 50-strong crew, it retraced Jason’s journey, travelling to Batumi Poti (Colchis) in the Black Sea. This spectacular boat is on display in Volos harbour all year round (except when undergoing maintenance). volosinfo.gr or argonautes2008.gr Theofilos Museum, Anakassia Housed in a handsome 18th-century mansion, this museum is dedicated to the early work of “naive” painter Theophilos Hatzimihail. Originally from Lesvos, the self-taught artist lived for long periods in Volos, often dressed in national costume, painting colourful frescoes in return for meals or money. Many depict his favourite theme, the Greek War of Independence - so you’ll see scenes such as the taking of Tripoli and the graphically illustrated massacre of Turkish civilians. By contrast, others are a whimsical portrayal of Pelion village life: a mix of landscapes, figures, flowers and fantastical animals such as a bear-headed hippo. Tsagarada’s 1000-year-old plane tree Most Greek villages have squares shaded by a mighty plane tree. But the one gracing the square of Agia Paraskevi, one of Tsagarada’s four districts, puts all others into the shade. According to locals, it’s not only the fattest plane tree in Greece (needing 18 chaps to encircle it) but, at over a thousand years old, also the oldest. Its roots tunnel at least four metres beneath the square, which was effectively built around the tree. Even if you’re not a tree-hugger, it’s a wonderful place to sit and watch the world go by with a Greek coffee. Church of Agia Marina, Kissos Built in 1650, this squat, three-aisled basilica is one of the finest religious monuments in Pelion, with some lovely frescoes and an impressive belfry too. It’s probably best known for its goldleaf-laden iconostasis, carved by craftsmen from Epirus in the early 1700s. The interior also features four domes, decorated by painter Ioannis Pagonis. Unless you’re there on a Sunday morning when there are services, it’ll probably be locked, but you can see some fine frescoes above the south door. A chapel forms the village’s Ecclesiastical Museum. Women’s Agritourism Cooperative in Vyzitsa One of Greece’s great culinary traditions is the “spoon sweet”, fruit that’s preserved in a sugar syrup. In 2011, the women of the village of Vyzitsa decided that such customs also needed preserving, and hoped that by doing so they could also gain useful employment. So they set up a 13-woman cooperative which hired kitchens and equipment, and today you can see them making spoon sweets, jams and pies, which they sell in a shop at the front. In September they organise a Firiki Festival celebrating the firiki apple that’s unique to the region. Serpentin Organic Garden, Tsagarada An organic, shrub-filled garden is a rarity in Greece - which makes this exuberant plot, on the lush eastern slopes of mount Pelion, particularly special. It’s the labour of love of German-born Doris Schlepper who, against all the odds, planted it up with rare trees (including ginkgos, tulip trees, and glory trees), historic roses, vegetables and plants, and opened it to the public in 1990. It’s a playful, imaginative place, popular with wildlife and artists alike. Doris will show you around if she’s there, but groups must give advance warning. www.serpentin-garden.com

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of local activities in the great outdoors. Densely wooded mountains criss-crossed by ancient footpaths, crystalline rivers that tumble into turquoise seas … Pelion has all you need for an active holiday: abseil down its Canyon of Centaurs to one of its Aegean beaches; hike or cycle along its cobbled muletracks; jump onto a yacht for a bit of island-hopping; splash along the west coast on horseback; or paddle your way into one of the rugged east coast’s magical caves. Gourmets and nature-lovers can visit one of Pelion’s organic vineyards, join a tour to discover its medicinal and culinary plants, or forage for mushrooms. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Pelion Photos: Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves Horse Riding Tours - George Rigakis (pictured above) Whether you prefer splashing through the waves on a sandy beach or climbing “secret” mountain trails, the back of a horse is a fabulous place from which to explore Pelion. George Rigakis keeps his horses on a farm among the olive groves near Tsagarada and uses his knowledge of the peninsula’s network of paths to arrange customised horse-riding tours lasting one to three hours. As you ride, discover churches hidden in the beech woods, or stop to drink in the views of the Aegean Sea below. In summer, tours are generally early morning or late afternoon to avoid the midday heat. tsagarada.gr Horseriding Club In the land of the mythical centaurs, it’s seems appropriate to trot your way around the peninsula on horseback. And if you’re new to riding, the Horseriding Club, based on a farm near Koropi on the west coast, makes it fun and easy. A guide will accompany you on foot and lead you and your horse along ancient stone paths through the beech forests and olive groves and down to the beach near Kala Nera on the Pagasitic Gulf. Experienced riders can rent a horse and guide for longer outings, and the Club will provide all the equipment you need. Ifom.gr (Greek only) Mountain Escapes It’s not often that you can canyon your way through lush vegetation to a beautiful beach, while also following in the footsteps of Pelion’s mythical centaurs. For beginners and/or families with children of 10 years or over, a good trip to kick off with is the Canyon of Centaurs A, which starts at Kissos and includes jumps, swims, natural water slides and abseils of up to 26 metres. The trip takes around six hours and the company provides equipment and instruction. More advanced canyoners can tackle the Fakistra, Galanopetra and Kathreftis canyons, on Pelion’s east coast. www.mountainescapes.gr Nature Seminars The ancient Greek poet Hesiod called Pelion “rich in herbs” thanks to the wealth of herbs and medicinal plants on its lush mountain slopes. Happily herbs still abound, and you can learn their properties and how to use them in the home by joining a botany workshop in the pretty southern village of Lafkos. Workshops are led by Maris Zafiriou who studied at the American Farm School in Thessaloniki and moved to Pelion in 2015 to grow aromatic and medicinal plants and keep bees. As well as workshops, she runs four-hour walks, and short courses on apiculture. www.natureseminars.gr Amanita Marianne and Filaretos Psimmenos have a well-founded reputation for their foodie boutique guesthouse in the woods (see Places to Stay). But what fewer people know is that they’re also wizards about Pelion’s botanological traditions. Join Marianne for a tour of her herb garden and the neighbouring woods and learn how to use herbs for cooking or healing. Or book in advance and she and Filaretos will give you cookery classes (using recipes from Filaretos’ book). In autumn, join Filaretos to gather mushrooms - from boletus to Caesar’s - then return to the guesthouse for a fry-up, downed with a glass of tsipouro. amanita.gr Walking Holidays In the old days Pelion’s mountain villages were connected by a web of cobbled mule and foot-paths, which today provide wonderful walking. Travel with Volos-based Walking Holidays and you can choose to navigate your own way or join a group. Their seven-night self-guided trip starts in the traditional west coast village of Milies, then takes you across the mountains through chestnut forests to Tsagarada and Damouchari on the east coast, before winding back to Portaria via Chania. The company also runs a guided trek that in addition to Pelion includes Meteora and its rock-top monasteries. www.walkingholidays.gr Pelion Scout If you’re new to walking in Pelion and have little ones too, Pelion Scout’s “Lost in the Forest” hike could be just the ticket. You meet at Zagora, on Pelion’s northeast corner, from where the company’s guide drives you to the start, then takes you on a 7km hike through the region’s spectacular beech forests. Pelion Scout also offers boat trips (try their half-day trip to the sea caves of Thetis), sea kayaking, canyoning, horse-riding and biking. Select the trip that suits your level of fitness and if there isn’t one, you’ll probably be able to have one tailor-made for you. www.pelionscout.com Bike or Hike Until the sixties, the main way to get from village to village was via dirt track or kalderimia (cobbled muletracks). Roads now connect the villages, leaving the old network of tracks for cyclists, mountain bikers and hikers to enjoy. Portaria-based Bike or Hike will tailor-make a mountain biking tour to suit your fitness and time availability. If you’re up for a challenge, sign up for their 9-dayer from one end of the peninsula to the other. The company also rents out all types of bikes and equipment, and arranges hiking tours too. bikeorhike.gr Green Mountain Activity Area Green Mountain, in Tsagarada, is an area you can try your hand at a range of activities, from paintball to archery - with all the equipment provided. There are activities for the kids to do too, and all ages can take part in Green Mountain’s Mythological Treasure Hunt in the chestnut woods. Or simply take it easy and mess around on a bike or mountain bike. In June, the Area’s creator, Nikolas Melis, also coordinates Tsagarada’s four-day Tsagarada Escape Festival, a jamboree of hiking, sea kayaking, horse riding, rock climbing and archery along with live music and talks on flora, fauna and history. Green Mountain: https://www.facebook.com/greenmountainactivities; Festival: www.tsagarada-pelion.com Pelion Secrets Land on a deserted sandy beach or explore one of Pelion’s evocative sea caves by sea kayak or stand-up paddleboard (SUP). Pelion Secrets runs day trips along the peninsula’s rocky east coast, starting from the coastal village of Chorefto. But if you’re still finding your sea legs, book onto the 2-hour “Short Paddle”, and when you feel more confident, take the half-day “East Coaster” trip to Plaka beach. Tailor-made tours are also available. Pelion Secrets also runs hiking trips in conjunction with Pelion Scout (see under Walking). pelionsecrets.com Shakayak A natural harbour offering protection against winds and waves, tiny Damouchari (where Mamma Mia was filmed) is the perfect spot to learn to sea kayak or paddleboard. So it’s no surprise it’s the spot Shakayak has chosen as their base. If you’re a beginner, potter around the bay while admiring the ruins of its old Venetian castle. For the adventurous, Shakayak runs full-day tours (picnic included) to the sea caves at Fakistra and beyond, while also showing you the coastal flora, fauna and geology. Or simply rent a board or kayak and do your own thing if you prefer. www.shakayak.gr Eclipse Sailing It goes without saying that one of the loveliest ways of exploring the coast of Pelion and its neighbouring islands is by boat. Eclipse Sailing’s yacht Nereida is a classic yacht built in 1984 from iroko and mahogany to a 1944 design by naval architect John Alden. Board this vintage beauty in Volos, then sail across the Pagasitic Gulf to Trikeri island on Pelion’s toe, stopping for swimming and snorkelling en route. Lunch, including Greek salad and homemade pies, is served on board. Eclipse also offers week-long holidays (with skipper and hostess provided). www.eclipsesailing.gr Sail Aegean This Belgian-Greek family-owned yacht charter company may have its headquarters in Brussels but its yachts are firmly moored in Pelion’s port city of Volos. Hire one and cross the mirror-calm Pagasitic Gulf to explore Trikeri island or the Sporades to the east. Stop off to swim or snorkle in iconic Tzasteni bay, and eat freshly landed fish in one of Trikeri’s sea-front tavernas. Rent a yacht with a skipper if you’re not experienced and don’t want the worry of navigating. Or hire bareboat (without skipper) if you’re experienced and fancy sailing under your own steam. sailaegean.eu Patistis vineyard Protected by Mount Pelion to the north and cooled by the breezes off the Aegean Sea in summer, this 8-hectare vineyard run by the Patistis family is ideally situated to grow (organically) local grape varieties such as xinomavro, roditis and limnio. Recently it’s also added assyrtiko, used to make its best-selling barrel-fermented Assyrtiko, a white wine with lovely citrus and tea aromas. Also popular are its Idioma red and its Blanc de noir white, both from xinomavro grapes. You can buy its wines from its cellar door shop (book in winter), and tours of its vineyard and tastings are also available. To visit the winery, book in advance. patistis-wines.gr Milea vineyard Like Patistis, Milea vineyard in nearby Argalasti, uses organic farming methods to grow its vines - as befits an area that embraces eco-tourism. And like Pastistis, this vineyard (of just six hectares) is family owned and run. But where it differs from Pastistis is in its choice of grape varieties. Milea grows just French varieties - Merlot, Syrah and Chardonnay. Its Merlot single variety red is matured in oak barrels for 14 months, producing a robust, full-bodied red with notes of jam, plum, chocolate and vanilla. You can buy wines on site, but for tours and tastings book in advance. ktimamilea.gr == Useful websites: Let’s Go Travelnet and Live Like Local.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese, Clare Hargreaves discovers a surprise signature dish and a feast of other local gems on a food tour of the peninsula Grab a table on the plane-tree-shaded terrace at the convivial O Thiasos cafe in Kalamata, the beachside city in the Peloponnese’s southwest corner, and order the signature dish for which locals return time and time again. It’s not lamb or goat, as you might expect after a drive across the forested mountains of Arcadia to the north or across the fertile plains of Messinia surrounding Kalamata. But succulent roasted pork clothed in the tastiest crackling you’ve ever crackled. Why pork? The answer is the region’s history, which flavours so many of its dishes. The Peloponnese was ruled by the Ottomans for nearly 400 years, until the early 1800s. “As Muslims don’t eat pork, the locals knew the best animal to keep was the pig,” says Fotini Arapi, who leads the Kalamata Food Tour run by the company Food Philosophy (kalamata.tours). “They knew the Ottomans would leave those alone. And while the Greeks tended their herds, they hatched revolt.” Still today, no Peloponnesian festival is complete without its spit-roasted pig. Pork doesn’t just come roasted though. Another prized speciality on this wild and vast rocky peninsula is pasto (or siglino) meaning ‘salted pork.’ Pork meat is ‘corned’ with salt, then smoked over local woods like olive and cypress, and herbs such as sage, which gives it a unique flavour. Finally it’s simmered with wine, oranges and spices. It’s been made in Kalamata by the Oikonomakos family ever since they started their butcher’s shop in 1871. Drop in there today (it’s part of the Food Tour route) and you’ll see Giorgos, one of the two brothers now running the shop, proudly stirring vats of rosy pork chunks and vibrant oranges below rows of hanging salamis as his parents hover at the back, Greek coffees in hand. “The tradition comes from the Mani, south of here. All houses had a pig that they’d slaughter in February and eat for the rest of the year,” Giorgos tells me, handing me a succulent morsel to try. “Orange trees is what grew in people’s gardens, so they flavoured the meat with their branches.” The meat makes a great flavouring for a bean soup, or stufffed tomatoes. But you’ll also find it served on its own as a mezze in local restaurants, many of which make their own, from O Thiasos in Kalamata, to Skourkos and To Xani tis Kandilas to the north, in and near Levidia. You’ll find more of Kalamata’s must-eats at Mantineia, a deli in the city’s old quarter a few blocks from its apricot-and-cream Byzantine-style cathedral. Perhaps the most sought after is vanilla fir honey, from the forested Menalon mountains to the northeast. This is a ‘honeydew’ honey, which means it’s made not from blossom nectar, but from sweet secretions produced by micro-organisms on the trunks of the vanilla (or black) fir tree. Bees use this to produce a pearl-coloured honey that’s not only delicious but has a remarkably low glucose content. Unique, it’s been given PDO protected name status, so grab some quick if you spot it alongside Mantineia’s other honeys and colourful spoon sweets (fruits preserved in sugar syrup). Peloponnesians may not drink much fresh milk, but they’re champions at yoghurts and cheeses. In Mantineia’s fridges you find metal trays of set yoghurt which aproned ladies cut into chunks for you to take home. Also look out for locally-made sfela, a protected-name semi-hard cheese made from goat and sheeps’ milk (sfela comes from the Greek sfelida, meaning strip, as it’s cut during production). It pairs briliantly with local lalagia,bread-stick ‘spaghetti’ that’s been fried in olive oil then scattered with sesame seeds, displayed in vast baskets alongside. Visit the city’s covered market and you start to understand why, 25 centuries ago, Euripides called Messinia’s soils ‘kallikarpi’ or ‘fruitful.’ Vats of herbs foraged from Mount Taygetos jostle for space with neat stacks of aubergines (the region even has its own variety), oranges and wild greens. In spring, you’ll find a variety of small-and-spiky wild artichoke from the Mani, that’s celebrated there with an annual festival. And in summer, ruby-coloured mulberries, after which the peninsula was once named (its ancient name was Moreas, thanks to its resemblance to the outline of a leaf of a mulberry tree (mouria) - rounded at the top, with the three long fingers of Messinia, Mani and Monemvasia extending below.) To taste it all, including locally grown black-eyed beans with spinach and herbs and kayianas (eggs scrambled in olive oil and grated tomato), both delicious, there’s no better place than O Thiasos. As I’m visiting in autumn I’m also lucky enough to try moustalevria, made from the must of the pressed grapes. The grape juice is mixed with flour and cinammon and boiled until it forms a jelly, which is topped with walnuts or sesame seeds - pleasantly refreshing at the end of an oil-rich meal. The king of the larder round here, of course, is the olive - and Kalamata even has its own ebony-hued olive named after it, not to be confused with koroneiki olives which are grown to make rich fruity oils. Messinia has around 15 million olive trees, producing 60,000 tonnes of extra virgin olive oil annually. Visit between November and January, and you’ll see entire villages outside harvesting their precious trees - always by hand in the case of Kalamatas, to avoid damaging their delicate flesh. To learn the secrets of pressing, I join a tour of The Olive Routes at Androusa, northwest of Kalamata, owned by Dimitra and Stathis Kontopoulos. The mill is housed in an ancient building that was once the Sultan’s house. For the tasting, oils are poured from dark blue bottles so that you focus on taste (“cut grass” and “tomatoes”) rather than colour which, as Dimitra will tell you, is irrelevant. Travel to the Peloponnese’s southeast coast for other gourmet delights. Stop en route at pretty Italianate Gytheion, for instance, and you’ll see spot fishermen thrashing their octopus against the jetty steps to soften their flesh. In Lent, when the eating of blood is forbidden, squid, octopus and cuttlefish (all bloodless) come to the rescue, often stewed with spinach, onions and other vegetables. Talking of spinach, Monemvasia, the historic castle-on-a-rock on the coast, has its own unique way of preparing it. The ubiquitous spinach pie is replaced by a delicious flatbread filled with spinach called saithia. We tried it at the old town’s Matoula restaurant, where the views across the town walls out to sea are as scrumptious as the home cooking. North of Monemvasia, the handsome mountain village of Kosmas has become famous for its galaktoboureko, or semolina custard pie. Find it in any of the cafes under the plane tree in its central square - there are even signposts to it! Like most Greek desserts, it’s a filo-pastry-clad affair that’s bathed in a honey-sweetened syrup. And eating it is a sacred Sunday morning ritual. But while you’ll find galaktoboureko elsewhere in Greece, a pastry you probably won’t is crinkly-edged diples, which means ‘folded or doubled’ pastry - think blonde brandy snaps without the brandy. Rolled pastry is deep-fried then sprinkled with honey and chopped nuts. Having breakfasted on some excellent home-made ones at Kinsterna Hotel in the hills near Monemvasia, I can heartily recommend them. But for the locals, diplesare also something you eat at weddings and christenings to symbolise the ‘sweet life’ of the married couple or the ‘double joy’ of the baptised child. Wines are plentiful - and increasingly good, particularly in areas like Nemea (outside the scope of this blog) which produce some superb reds, from the Agiorgitiko (St George) grape. But the true wine of the south is the sweet wine from Monemvasia, called Malvasia, whose production began in Byzantine times - the first record of it is in 1214 by the Bishop of Ephesus. Monemvasiots exported their sweet wine worldwide, and the wine even makes an appearance in Shakespeare’s Richard II. Monemvasia-Malvasia wine was reborn when the Monemvasia winery opened in 1997 and in 2010 it proudly gained its own PDO. I sip it in the relaxed Enetiko Cocktail Bar in the Lower Town on Monemvasia’s great rock. Stin ygeia mas! Cheers! == Disclosure: Clare Hargreaves was a guest of the Greece National Tourism Organisation. Clare had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting the Peloponnese in October 2019 for Green Traveller's Guide to Central and Southern Peloponnese. All opinions are the authors' own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese, Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves sample adventure activities in some of the most ancient parts of the peninsula Setting off from a ridiculously idyllic forest-backed sandy beach, we kayaked through crystal clear water with just the sounds of our paddles lapping in the water and occasional birdsong overhead. After a lunch of fresh tomatoes, feta cheese, olives and home-baked bread, the plan for the afternoon was gloriously simple: we just had to slowly kayak along the rocky coastline back to where we’d set out that morning. The sea was warm, the sun was baking and it was a perfect clear blue sky day. Welcome to autumn in laid-back Kardimili. Kayaking is just one of many outdoor adventures in the southern Peloponnese provided by Explore Messinia who also run hiking, canyoning, rafting, river trekking and stand up paddleboarding. Away from the coast, there’s also a huge variety of things to do provided by any number of adventure operators: you can explore the Mainalon, the vast massif at its heart, on foot, bike or horseback; test your inner Robinson Crusoe by joining a course in survival tactics - including creating fire with sticks; or raft down spectacular river gorges. Adventurous foodies can enjoy city food tours, olive oil tours and mountain mushroom-hunting – most tours inevitably go hand in hand with learning about the fascinating heritage of this ancient part of Greece. We started our adventure in the heart of the vast wild and rocky peninsula - in Mistras, six kilometres west of Sparta, which we could see sprawled across the plain below. Above us, its jagged head buried in clouds, is mighty Mount Taygetos, while beside us is an equally staggering sight: a lush 250-metre-high foothill bearing the remarkably intact remains of what was once a thriving walled Byzantine city. With its grey stone fortress dominating its frescoed churches, monasteries, mansions, and streets it’s mind-blowing to picture the 20,0000 people who once played out their lives and faith here. Leaving the hovering taxis and hawkers selling honey-and-sesame pasteli, we entered the stone arches of the Upper Gate, and tramped an olive-fringed footway up to the remains of the castle. This was one of a trio of fortresses built in the mid 13th century by William II of Villehardouin, the fourth Frankish prince of the Morea, in an attempt to extend Frankish rule over the southern Peloponnese following the fall of Constantinople to the crusaders. Following Mistras’ stone-paved alleyways, we crossed its town square to reach the vast, Gothic-looking Despots’ Palace, a (rare) civic building where the despot lived, adjudicated and received visitors. As we wandered down, we soon lost track of its many Late Byzantine churches, all built on a characteristic cross-plan and topped with multiple terracotta-roofed domes, seen as symbols of the divine and eternal. But getting lost is part of the joy of Mistras - its ancient buildings mingle with olive trees and bushes of vibrantly coloured rock roses through which stray cats wander, and the hill is ample enough for you to escape the crowds. If Mistras was Byzantium’s spiritual centre, Monemvasia, impregnable on its vast pink rock off the peninsula’s east coast, was its secular counterpart. Founded by the Byzantines in the sixth century to escape the rapacious Avars and Slavs, it remained in Byzantine hands (with occasional interruptions) for almost seven centuries, becoming subject to the Despotate of the Morea from 1349 to 1460. We entered the imposing gate into its walled Lower Town via a causeway from the modern town - the name Monemvasia is an elision of the Greek words “moni” and “emvasis” meaning single and entrance. The locals, though, dub it “kastro”, meaning “castle” - a reference to the citadel that lords it over the Upper Town above. As we wandered through the Lower Town’s tangle of narrow paved streets, lined with cafes, souvenir shops, and tavernas (one of them owned by relatives of Yannis Ritsos, one of Greece’s foremost poets), we dived into the main street’s Enetiko bar to sample one of the exports from which Monemvasia’s noble Byzantine families made fortunes - its Malmsey or Malvasia wine, so famous it even got a mention in Shakespeare’s Richard III. Two decades ago, a Monemvasia winery started producing the sweet wine once again and in 2010 it even gained a PDO. It’s drunk chilled, which dampens the sweetness, and it makes a welcome aperitif before the steep climb up to the Upper Town. If that’s not enough to take one’s breath away, the beautiful octagonal twelfth-century church of Ayia Sofia, a few steps up from the gate, certainly is. Its walls bear colourful wall paintings dating from the late 12th and early 13th century. Happily they’re being looked after well - we meet a woman painstakingly restoring them. Further south, we headed to the famous Dinos caves, which pierce the cliffs near the village of Pirgos Dirou, 8km south of Areopolis. Alepotripa and Vlichada caves (collectively known as the ‘Dinos Caves’) were used in the late Neolithic period (4000 - 3000 BC) as shelter, dwelling, and place of worship. You can walk in the Alepotrypa cave but we took a boat trip in the adjacent Vlichada cave. A short walk from the cave’s entrance leads to an underground jetty from where we boarded a paddle boat for an awe-inspiring 30-minute trip along the silent underground network of waterways, passages and galleries of stalactites and stalagmites lit up against the reflected water. Emerging in the warm October sun, we then visited the Mani - an area steeped in mythology; a cave on Cape Tainaron, its southernmost tip, is said to be one of the entrances to Hades (the Underworld), from where Hercules dragged Cerberus into daylight. One of the most fascinating sights are the marble-roofed tower houses - many are well preserved, and one has been turned into a stunning boutique hotel. Climbing the steep alleyways winding up between tumbeldown houses, with only the occasional pungent-smelling carob tree for greenery, we marvelled at how its inhabitants eeked out a life in such a challenging landscape. It seemed a far cry from Mistras’ lush mountainsides, Monemvasia’s bustling streets and the coast of Kardimili but such is the variety of things to do in this glorious pensinsula – our advice is to just give yourself plenty of time to see as much as you can! Words by Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves Photos (unless otherwise indicated) by Clare Hargreaves == Disclosure: Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves were guests of the Greece National Tourism Organisation. Richard and Clare had full editorial control of the review, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting the Peloponnese in October 2019 for Green Traveller's Guide to Central and Southern Peloponnese. All opinions are the authors' own.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of cultural and heritage visitor attractions. With its rich history, thick with myths and legends, and its magnificent landscapes, you’re never short of places to visit in the Peloponnese. Explore the peninsula’s Byzantine past with trips to the coastal rock-city of Monemvasia or to the ruined hilltop settlement of Mistras, beneath mighty Mount Tagyetos. You can see remnants of the earlier Mycenaean period too, as well as the peninsula’s occupation by the Franks, Venetians and Ottomans. Folklore and costume museums, ancient libraries and churches illustrate different stages of the region’s turbulent history, while wineries and festivals show that Greek culture is still very much alive today. Photos: Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in the Peloponnese Skouras Winery Like the other 50-odd wineries in the Peloponnese’s Nemea region, this winery, established by Argos-born George Skouras in 1986, grows not only indigenous Agiorghitiko and Moscofilero grapes but also international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay. The winery is also working on a sweet red made with the little-known Mavrostifo (meaning “black astringent”) grape that’s dried in the sun to concentrate its aromas, flavors and acidity - watch this space! Visits (bookable in advance) include a tour of the winery and the cellar and then a tasting of its wines, including Megas Oenos (meaning Big/Great wine!). skouras.gr Open-Air Water Power Museum, Dimitsana This unusual museum in the woods overlooking the Lousios river on the edge of Dimitsana, illustrates the importance of water power in pre-industrial Greece, showing how it was used to produce various goods, from gunpowder to flour and leather. You visit a fulling-tub and a watermill - throw corn into the hopper and watch it being ground by the millstones. Beyond are a tannery, which used water to process skins, and a gunpowder mill where inhabitants of Dimitsana manufactured powder during the Greek War of Independence. “We had powder,” wrote Arcadia-born revolutionary leader Theodoros Kolokotronis. “Dimitsana made it.” Tel: 30 279 50 31630 The Library, Dimitsana Dimitsana’s ancient library (and folk museum) is housed in the Municipal School building opposite the church of Agia Kyriaki, at the top of the village. Founded by two monks in 1764, it started life as a theological school and its library was one of four that existed in Greece at that time, with almost 5,000 volumes. Sadly, during the Revolution, many of the library’s books were used to create ammunition, and in 1864 it closed. Today it has over 35,000 books, which include Ottoman decrees, ecclesiastical books dating from the 16th century, and documents from nearby monasteries. Tel: +30 27950-31219 Folklore museum, Stemnitsa Design-built as a “traditional dwelling” by the Savopoulos family in 1995, this museum recreates daily Stemnitsa life in the 18thand 19th centuries. The ground floor has workshops of different traditional professions (including shoemaker, candlemaker, bellmaker, silversmith). The next reproduces the interior of a 19th-century mansion, complete with authentic furniture, weavings, embroideries and loom. The top floor houses the Savopoulos’ family collection of local costumes, Byzantine icons, jewelry, wood carvings, ceramics, and weavings. And in the New Wing, you can admire a collection of ecclesiastical silverware, weavings and home utensils. Well worth a visit. Tel: +30 27950-81252 Mystra Mystra is a hauntingly beautiful, ruined fortress-town that covers a steep, 250-metre-high foothill of mighty Mount Taygetos, to the west of Sparta. It was founded by the Franks in 1249, who built a castle here, but they were soon driven out by the Byzantines who by the mid-14th century had turned this isolated region into the Despotate of Mystra - effectively the last outpost of the Greek Byzantine empire. Explore the hill’s magnificent terracotta-domed churches, many lined with wonderful frescoes, and you can also visit the Pantanassa convent, still inhabited by nuns who sell their handicrafts. Agii Apostoli church, Kalamata This tiny honey-coloured Byzantine church, in the lively heart of historic Kalamata, just below its 14th-century Frankish castle, was built in 1317. Look closely and you’ll notice that the church is lopsided: the larger section was added onto the original core in 1626, and the bell tower was added a bit later. On 23 March each year the city’s liberation is re-enacted here - always an emotional occasion. Ypapanti Cathedral, Kalamata Kalamata’s Byzantine-style apricot-and-cream Ypapanti church was built on the site of an earlier church in 1839 and consecrated in 1873. Inside it holds the ancient icon of Panayia Ypapanti, the protectress of the city of Kalamata. On 2 February the city celebrates the Festival of the Ypapanti, during which the icon is paraded around the vast marble-lined square in front. There’s another leafy square to the side, with an impressive line-up of statues of its previous bishops. Monemvasia Standing proud and impregnable on its salmon-hued eruption of rock, mighty Monemvasia was the medieval seaport and commercial centre of the Byzantine Peloponnese, the secular counterpart of Mystras. Founded in the sixth century, at its zenith Monemvasia accommodated almost 60,000 people within its walls. After Byzantine rule, it was controlled by the Venetians and then the Ottomans. Both the lower town, with its shops, bars and museums, and the upper town, with its castle and 12th-century fresco-painted Agia Sofia octagonal church, a replica of the similarly named church in Constantinople, are fascinating. Allow yourself a day to take it all in. monemvasia.gr Diros caves It’s hard not to be moved by these famous magical caves, which pierce the cliffs near the village of Pirgos Dhirou, 8km south of Areopolis. Alepotripa and Vlichada caves (collectively known as the ‘Diros Caves’) were used in the late Neolithic period (4000 - 3000 BC) as shelter, dwelling, and place of worship. You can walk in the Alepotrypa cave but the main attraction is the boat trip in the adjacent Vlichada cave. A short walk from the cave’s entrance leads to an underground jetty from where you’ll board a paddle boat for an awe-inspiring 30-minute trip along the silent underground network of waterways, passages and galleries where you see the stalactites and stalagmites lit up against the reflected water. Highly recommended. visitgreece.gr/en/nature/caves/diros_caves The Victoria Karelias Collection of Traditional Greek Costumes, Kalamata The elegant neo-classical building containing this private collection gives a taste of what is inside - beautifully presented traditional Greek costumes from all over the country, including lavishly-embroidered overcoats and magnificent pieces of jewelry. Costumes date from the mid-18th-century to the first half of the 20th century. The exhibition explains how Byzantine and Western influences merged in people’s clothing, and how regional costumes were also affected by factors such as raw materials, climate and production techniques. There’s good explanation in Greek and English, and plenty of interactive exhibits, so it’s a good bet for children too. vgkareliascollection.com/en/ Kalamata International Dance Festival - July This jamboree has been going since 1995 and now attracts contemporary dancers of all ages from all over the world, some of them making their debuts here. Come here to watch anything from hip hop to Indian kathak to contemporary acrobatics, it’s all here! Outdoor performances are held in the scenic setting of Kalamata’s Central Square (around the cathedral) and workshops are inside the city’s Municipal Stadium. The festival also comissions works from talented Greek choreographers. Alongside the performances, there areworkshops, photo exhibitions, talks, and film screenings aimed at dance students and professionals alike. kalamatadancefestival.gr

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection characterful places to stay. Fancy sleeping in a luxury mountain lodge or a 19th-century mansion, a cricket’s hop away from the pine-forested mountains… or a Grade 1-listed converted customs house beneath a Byzantine castle… or a hotel among the palm trees from where you can saunter to the beach or the pool. Swanky or simple, the central and southern Peloponnese has the full range. Foodies are well provided for too, as many hotels produce their own olives and oil, as well as fruits which are turned into delicious breakfast jams. Some, like Kinsterna, even show you how to make bread the traditional way. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in the Peloponnese Lazareto Hotel, Monemvasia (pictured above) This hotel, perfectly situated at the base of Monemvasia’s Byzantine castle, was built by the Venetians as a customs house in 1709. Shipping companies paid duty here, which allowed them to unload in Venice. A decade later, another wing was added as a quarantine unit against the plague - the word ‘lazareto’ means ‘quarantine’. Its stone and timber buildings have been beautifully converted by the owners into characterful rooms which furnished with quirky antiques and rugs. Choose between a suite in the former ambassador’s house, a circular custom’s house, or one of the simpler rooms in the main building. lazareto.gr Porto Vitilo boutique hotel, Itylo Built in stone, wood and marble in the local tower-house style, this luxurious hotel stands alone among olive groves on a promontory overlooking Itylo bay so you’re lulled to sleep by lapping waves. Furnishings and bedding are unashamedly plush, breakfasts are a feast (try the homemade chocolate cake, and jams) and there’s a pool with sunloungers outside if you don’t fancy the beach. This is a well-positioned base from which to explore the Mani with its tower-house villages and aridly beautiful landscapes, and the Pirgos Dirou caves are just 20 minutes’ drive away. portovitilo.gr Filoxenia Kalamata, Kalamata Located around a palm-tree studded courtyard and looking out over the Messinian Gulf, this hotel is the ultimate place to relax. The only decision you’ll need to make while staying here is whether to bathe in the pool or in the sea. Do both - and try the (indoor) pool inside its Olive Spa too. Its 188 elegant rooms, in calming pastel colours, are beautifully light. Downstairs there’s a fitness centre, floodlit tennis court, library, restaurant and several bars. The spa offers treatments using essential oils from wild aromatic plants hand-harveted on the slopes of nearby Mount Taygetos. filoxeniakalamata.com Nefeles Hotel Stay in these luxurious stone-built apartments in winter to ski, or in summer to hike or mountain-bike through the forested mountains of the Menalo range behind the hotel. Either way, you’re in for a treat. Apartments all have tip-top bedding, lounges with comfy armchairs and fireplaces, as well as kitchenettes where you can make yourself a morning coffee. Once you’ve watched the sun rise over the valley below, decend to the dining room for a first-rate breakfast of homemade pittas (pies), locally made jams and fresh bread from the super bakery in nearby Levidi. nefelesmainalon.gr Kinsterna Hotel, Monemvasia Set among olive groves, vineyards and citrus trees just inland from Monemvasia, this majestic manor and its outhouses used to be part of an ancient Byzantine estate. Rooms combine modern comforts with traditional features like stone fireplaces, handmade wall embroideries, wooden ceilings and marble baths. There’s a spa and a hammam too. Relax by the L-shaped infinity pool, or visit one of the outhouses to watch bread or olive oil being made the traditional way. Not surprisingly, breakfasts are a highlight, with homemade bread and jams, fruits from the estate, and freshly baked pastries and pies. kinsternahotel.gr Elies, Kardamili Not only is this stylish beachside hotel, with its Scandi-chic interiors and gleaming pine floors, lovely in itself, but it stands in the olive groves in one of the Mani’s loveliest villages, Kardamyli. Elies’ stone cottages have one or two rooms, and all have a kitchenette, so you can self-cater if you want to. Actually you probably won’t as Elies’ taverna is by far the best in town. As you sit among the olive trees and geranium pots you sample fresh fish, local olives and greens and herbs plucked from the slopes of Mount Taygetos, the mighty backdrop to the village. elieshotel.gr Kyrimai Hotel, Gerolimenas Experience a bit of Mani’s history by staying at this stone mansion on Gerolimenas Bay, near the tip of the Mani peninsula. The mansion was founded by the Kyrimis family in 1870 and amazingly it’s still owned by the same family, who have recently transformed it and its adjoining warehouses into a luxury boutique hotel. Antique-furnished rooms with exposed stone walls overlook the bay, there’s a lovely pool, or you can swim from the jetty. There’s also a great restaurant delivering modern Mediterranean cooking (including plenty of local seafood). Eat out on the waterside terrace or inside by the log fire. kyrimai.gr Citta dei Nicliani, Kita Once the largest and most powerful village in the region, Kita is famous for its historic tower houses - including this one, built in 1750, which since 2011 has been been a luxury 8-room boutique hotel. Named after Nicliani, who was born in the village and was a powerful local leader, it’s owned and run by native Maniots Ilias and Tania Sepsas and their son Panagiotis. With its cobbled courtyard and views through the olive groves, it’s a truly tranquil spot. In the evening try the wines from the hotel’s impressive wine cellar, stocking over 100 quality Greek wines. cittadeinicliani.com Mazaraki Guesthouse, Pikoulianika, near Mistras At first glance this looks like a cafe, nestled in a cottage in the village of Pikoulianika, near the ruined Byzantine hilltop city of Mistras. But look more closely and beside it you’ll spot stone buildings housing ten rustic-chic self-catering cottages, each with its own private balcony or veranda. Some have fireplaces or woodburners too. Although the cottages have kitchens, breakfast is included in the rate and brought to your door each morning. Mistras is only two kilometres’ walk away, so you’re in the perfect spot to get there before the crowds. xenonasmazaraki.gr Trikolonion Country, Stemnitsa, Arkadia With its closely packed cobbled streets and myriad churches and museums, it’s hard to imagine that the tiny mountain village of Stemnitsa could squeeze in a luxury hotel. But Trikolonion has been skilfully crafted out of four stone towers to create 14 rooms and four suites that combine ancient materials like wood and stone with modern comforts. All have wooden ceilings, antique furnishings and original lithographs and engravings, and downstairs there’s a stunning wood-panelled lounge with a cafe serving snacks and meals by the fire. There’s a Wellness Area with gym, sauna and jacuzzi too. trikolonioncountry.gr Anyfanti Mansion, Zatouna This traditional 19th-century Arcadian mansion used to house a weaving business and a textile shop and during the years of the Greek War of Independence in 1821 the ground floor was used to store saltpeter that was supplied to the locals to produce gunpowder. The building has been sensitively restored by Greek architect Giannis Kizism retaining its fortress-like windows, the stone dome on the ground floor, and its wooden balconies and ceilings. Breakfasts (including homemade pies, local cheeses and fir honey) are a highlight, there’s a cafe open all day, and you can dine here on Friday to Sunday. archontikoanyfanti.com Camvillia Resort, Vounaria, Koroni This no-expense-spared resort combines glorious isolation on olive-planted slopes with proximity to the stunning Venetian seaside fortress of Koroni, with its pastel-washed houses and maze of twisting streets. Relax by the infinity pool, or try the heated pool in the fitness centre, which also includes a sauna and a hammam, as well as rooms for spa treatments based around olive oil (naturally). Rooms are decorated in soothing olive-silvery-green, and all have balconies or verandas, most with views to Koroni. Food is local and dinners, by chef Lefteris Tranoudakis, a foodies’ delight. camvillia.gr Eumelia, Gouves The name of this organic farm in the south-east Peloponnese means harmony, and it’s a perfect place to combine relaxation with learning about food and bio-dynamic agriculture. Rent one of the five eco-villas overlooking the vineyards and olive groves, and if you wish, join in olive oil and wine tastings, cookery classes and even olive picking. The accommodation uses eco-friendly materials and technology, and you can get biodynamically-grown vegetables from the gardens. It’s a beautiful region to explore too, with the port of Gytheion and the pretty mountain village of Kosmas both a short drive. eumelia.com

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of places to eat selling locally produced seasonal food. With its Mediterranean climate, vast and rugged mountains and extensive coastline, the southern Peloponnese produces an enticing larder - from olives and olive oil to figs, salty cheeses, mountain-reared meats and seafood - all of which you’ll sample in the region’s many restaurants. Locals still forage greens and herbs from the mountains, and gather honey, including the special white ‘vanilla’ honey produced among the pine forests in its centre. The cooking may be simple, but it’s hard to beat for freshness and flavour. And there are plenty of delis where you can buy produce to take home too. Photos: Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in the Peloponnese O Thiasos, Kalamata Gournopoula, or roast suckling pig, is the specialty at this super-friendly cafe-ouzeri under the plane trees in Kalamata’s historical centre - the meat is meltingly soft and its crackling just the right level of crunchy. Owners Vasilis and Kostas follow the seasons, with many of the vegetables grown on Kostas’ own farm - so don’t ask for a typical Greek salad in December! Look out for local Greek specialities such as black-eyed beans with spinach, kagianas (eggs scrambled with grated tomatoes) or meat pie with wholewheat pastry. In autumn you might find pork with quinces, and moustalevria, a jelly-style dessert made from grape must, while at Christmas, pork with celery is the thing. Chrisanthi, Kalamata You’ll smell this pastry shop long before you get to it - enthusiastic owner Chrisanthi cooks everything from scratch in the morning, using ingredients (such as eggs, yoghurt and orange juice) that are sourced from local producers. Chrisanthi used to run a pastry shop in Athens, but moved to this pocket-sized shop five years ago. Specialities include her portokalopitta (orange cake), brioche-style tsoureki and lichnarachia (meaning little lamps) - Cretan cheesecake pies. If you’re lucky you might get a taste of her delicious inomelo (honey wine) made from wine, honey, cinammon and rose geranium. Spinos Coffee micro-roastery, Kalamata This cute family-owned micro-roastery, bang in the heart of Kalamata’s old city, has been going since 1957. It’s both a cafe and a place you can buy freshly roasted coffee beans or ground coffee to take home. Beans, sourced from Guatemala, Costa Rica, Malawi and Dominican Republic, are stored in vintage containers that are a delight in themselves. Come here for a traditional Greek coffee (made in a special pot called briki), for international versions such as expresso, capuccino or latte, or for young Greeks’ coffee of choice, the cold coffee frappe. There’s Swiss Water decaff too. spinosroastery.gr Oikonomakos charcuterie, Kalamata This charcuterie, which the Oikonomakos family have been running since 1871, specialises in traditional smoked pork, known as pasto. It’s de-boned, salted, then smoked with herbs and woods from the neighbouring mountains, before finally being gently simmered with spices, orange slices, olive oil and wine. Buy it fresh, ready to nibble and down with a glass of tsipouro, or vacuum-packed to take home. Today the shop is run by George and his brother Panos, but their father and mother still help out. You can buy other deli goods too, including several varieties of olive, preserved in vinegar. +30 2721 028718 Mantineia grocery shop, Kalamata This wonderful deli is a picnic-maker’s paradise, stocking the best of the southern Peloponnese’s produce. Start by stocking up on homemade yoghurt (the assistant will cut you a slab from a large steel tray), then pick up locally made pastas called hilopittes and traxana, extra virgin olive oils, pasteli (sesame and honey bars) and lalagia, sesame-scattered bread-stick ‘spaghetti’ that’s been fried in olive oil. The store is hot on local cheeses too, including sfela, a semi-soft PDO cheese made from goat and sheep’s milk that pairs brilliantly with the local dried figs or honeys. mantineia.gr Lela’s, Kardamili Lela who gives her name to this taverna in central Kardamili is sadly no longer alive, but she used to be housekeeper to writer Patrick Leigh Fermor, who lived in the village, then cooked here until she died in her nineties. Today’s chefs continue her solid home cooking, with dishes such as moussaka or local fish - choose from the menu chalked on the blackboard. But you come here for the location as much as for the food. The taverna is right on the town’s rocky shore, so you can hear the waves lapping as you dine among the geranium pots. lelastaverna.com To Xani tis Kandilas The Greek word ‘xani’ means an inn, and this place - half inside, half outside under an awning - stands on the road to the market town of Levidi, a few kilometres away. Since 1996 it’s been run by two affable brothers, Costas and Vasilis, who serve rustic dishes cooked (and often foraged or grown too) by their mother Tasia. Look out for homemade pasto(salt pork), stuffed aubergines, lamb or chicken cooked with olive oil and oregano sauce, giant beans, and greens picked from the mountainside. They’re all made that morning from fresh ingredients and served with Tasia’s homemade bread. Fabulous. taverna-hani.gr Skourkos Taverna, Levidi Bang on the square of Levidi, in the northeastern foothills of Mount Mainalon, this simple taverna is a carnivore’s paradise. Try pasto (salt pork) combined with eggs and chips (surprisingly good), giant hand-made beefburgers, steaks cooked on the grill, or a stew of locally-hunted wild boar. Other specialities include Greek salad with capers and chunks of Cretan-style dakos rusks, pizzas, and home-made calzone-style cheese-filled breads. Wash it down with homemade tsipouro (raki). If you go at grape harvest time, you might get a chance to try moustalevria, a sweet jelly home-made from grape must. Tel: 2796022231 Faros, Karavostassi, Itylo, Mani With its tables lined along the shore overlooking Itylo bay, this fish restaurant is hard to beat for location. Its owners are fishermen, so the menu features whatever has been caught that day. Kick off with starters such as marinated anchovies, grilled sardines or fava puree, and for main order a simply grilled red snapper or gilt-head bream. Meat gets a look-in too - try a stew of mountain lamb or beef. Listen the waves lapping and feel the sea breeze in your hair as you eat - al fresco dining. Tel: +30 694 472 5480 O Ellinas, Mistras Overlooking the cobbled square and its plane tree, this taverna is the perfect place to watch the comings and goings of this small village nestled beneath Mistras’ ancient Byzantine settlement. O Ellinas mean The Greek, and nowhere could be more typically Greek: locals catch up over strong coffees, while vistors and residents alike enjoy no-nonsense Greek classics from rice-stuffed tomatoes to Greek salad, all produced with home-grown olive oil. It’s run by Ioannis Bourlokas who runs it with his mother. Ioannis’ parents are butchers, so meat features strongly on the menu - try the roast pork or lamb, with oven-baked potatoes. mystrasrestaurant.com Mateo’s, Monemvasia There’s no fuss or frills at this simple seafront cafe-restaurant in the quietly bustling heart of Monemvasia’s mainland town of Yefira, five minutes’ walk from the causeway to the medieval castle. Come here for a simple, well-priced Greek salad, a plate of fried sardines, or stewed locally caught octopus. There’s a good wine list too. Come here after a refreshing dip, and watch the boats coming and going in the harbour as you eat. If you want somewhere slightly smarter, eat at Acrogiali or Scorpios, both specialising in fish and a few minutes along the beach. Tel: +30 2732 061356 Matoula, Monemvasia In a location as touristy as the Monemvasia, it can be challenging to know which of the many restaurants to choose. Matoula, which has been going since 1950, is a sure bet and is as strong for its food as for its dreamy location right on the city walls of the Lower Town. Sit in its shady vine-draped garden overlooking the sea as you order a selection of Greek classics to share. The definite must-try is its saitia (spinach wraps), a speciality of Monemvasia. But the courgette patties, stuffed aubergines and super-fresh salads are equally delicious. matoula.gr Arbaroriza pastry shop, Stemnitsa This gorgeous new patisserie on the outskirts of the mountain village of Stemnitsa is run by a mother and daughter, both of whom also work as jewellers, and takes its name after a scented geranium that the pair use in many of their recipes. Look out for melomakarona (honey cookies) and walnut pie made from local walnuts and honey, as well as spoon sweets (preserved fruits) from walnuts, quince and tiny Firiki apples that grow on the lower slopes of Mount Mainalon. They make traditional Peloponnese specialities too, such as Diples, rolls of fried dough that are drenched in honey and nuts, and Arcadian milk pies. Tel: 30 2795 081538

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of local activities in the great outdoors. With its lofty mountain ranges, extensive coastline and dramatic river gorges, the southern Peloponnese has plenty to keep you active. Explore the Mainalon, the vast massif at its heart, on foot, bike or horseback. Or test your inner Robinson Crusoe by joining a course in survival tactics - including creating fire with sticks. Swim, sail or kayak off the peninsula’s coastline, while enjoying its sandy beaches and crystalline turquoise waters as well as spectacular river gorges to raft down. Adventurous foodies will enjoy city food tours, olive oil tours and mountain mushroom-hunting. Photos: Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to the Central and Southern Peloponnese: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in the Peloponnese Sea Kayaking at Kardamili (pictured above) The great thing about kayaking is that it can get you to places that are otherwise inaccessible, and on this trip, run by Explore Messinia, that leaves from Kardamili’s old harbor, you’ll paddle out to hidden sea caves, rock gardens below spectacular, as well as stop off at a glorious sandy beach for delicious lunch of freshly baked bread organic, homemade olive oil, cheese and fruit. The highlight is the Blue Cave - a wonderful natural phenomenon where a shaft of sunlight through a crack in the cave reflects on the sea floor and bathes the cave in aquamarine light. Explore Messinia also run day tours and multi-day adventures in the region, including stand-up paddle boarding, river trekking, rafting, cycling and canyoning. exploremessinia.com Food tour of Kalamata You might not realise at first glance, but the historical centre of Kalamata hides a trove of food treasures, from charcutiers crafting the region’s famous pasto (salted pork) to pastry shops producing delicious orange cake, stores selling local herbs or home-made yoghurt, and a vibrant fruit and vegetable covered market. Kalamata Tours, run by the company Food Philosophy, takes you straight to the city’s most authentic food stores, enabling you to meet their owners and taste their foods. You end up with lunch in a local taverna where you taste the traditional gournopoula(roast pork) and wash it down with local wines or a glass of ouzo. kalamata.tours Olive tour in Androusa, near Kalamata Do you know your koroneiki from your kalamata? These are the key olive varieties grown on the Messinian plains around Kalamata, and you can learn all about their growing, harvesting and pressing on a tour run by Dimitra and Stathis Kontopoulos at Androusa, northwest of Kalamata. Dimitra’s husband’s family have been farming olives for generations, so there’s little they don’t know about the production of extra-virgin olive oil. Tours start at the family’s grove next to Androusa’s 13th-century castle, and you then travel to the mill for a guided tour and some serious tasting, followed by a light lunch of local produce (including home-grown olives!) and wines. theoliveroutes.com Mainalon ski centre Greece may not seem the obvious location for skiing, but Athenians and locals alike love this tiny resort hidden in the fir-clad Mainalon massif - known as the mountain of Pan - which covers the centre of the Peloponnese. Depending on weather conditions it’s usually open from December to March, but check the website before you go. There are seven slopes for all levels, and a chalet where you can get a hot drink after your exertions on the slopes. It’s a peaceful centre - very different from the huge industrial ski resorts in other parts of Europe. mainaloski.gr Horse-riding in Elati, Mainalon, with Christos Simopoulos Christos spends part of his time carving wood into fantastical sculptures and items of furniture, which he sells in Athens and elsewhere, but the rest of the time takes people into the Mainalon mountains on horseback. He has nine horses in all, provides all the equipment you need, including hard hats and saddles, and he can cater for all levels of expertise. It’s hard to think of a lovelier way of exploring Mainalon’s forests and grassy clearings, which are stunning at every time of the year. dimiourgies-xilou.gr (Greek only) Mushrooming, and survival tactics in the Mainalon mountains Menalo is a mountain range in the centre of the Peloponnese, that includes some spectacular landscapes and villages. Explore them on foot, mountain bike, or jeep, led by company founder Panos Panagopoulos who is based in the village of Vitina. Walks range from easy trails of just over an hour (3kms) to longer ones of 2.5 hours (6.6kms) or a half or whole day. Panos also runs courses in survival tactics and archery, and in autumn, mushrooming trips. During the latter, look out for milk-cap, boletus or St George mushrooms, then cook them up and get feasting. explore-menalo.gr Rafting in the Lousios gorge The Lousios river in Arcadia - and its densely vegetated gorge - is considered one of the most beautiful in Greece. According to Pausanias, the 2nd century AD Greek traveller and geographer, the Lousios is also where Zeus, the father of Olympian gods, bathed after his birth. Rafting is a fantastic way to experience its fast-running crystalline waters. This half-day trip, which starts at Maratha village, takes you three kilometres along the Lousios, which then enters a gorge where it falls into the River Alfios. The rapids on the descent are rated easy to moderate and in summer are suitable for beginners upwards. exploremessinia.com Hike the Mainalon Trail One of the loveliest ways of exploring the mountainous region of Gortynia, the western part of Arcadia, is by walking a 75-kilometre long-distance footpath called the Mainalon Trail. Starting in the historic village of Stemnitsa, it follows the gorge of the Lousios River (visit its rockface monasteries as you pass), then continues over the western slopes of Mt. Menalo, through the valley of the Mylaon River and over the northeast Gortynian mountains. This self-guided tour takes you through eight attractive mountain villages over seven days. You end up at the village of Lagkadia, known as the village of the stone builders. trekking.gr/en/product_en/hike-Mainalon-trail Trekking the River Neda The 31 km-long Neda often gets overlooked in favour of Arcadia's better-known Lousios river, but it’s just as spectacular. (It’s also unique in being the only river in Greece to have a feminine name!) This four-hour trek, which starts on the bridge between Platania and Figaleia, south of Andritsaina, takes you along the narrow cliffs bordering the gorge. When the gorge gets too narrow, you swim, finally ending up in natural river pools by the Neda’s magnificent waterfalls. There’s a chance to explore underwater caves too, and a picnic lunch is provided as part of the tour. https://trekking.gr/en/product_en/river-trekking-neda Climb Mount Taygetos Summit the mighty 2,407-metre Taygetos in one action-packed day, or over two with an overnight camping on the way. The longer route is 17 kilometres long, and includes around 10 hours of walking, whereas the one-day trip is just 9 kilometres and takes 6 to 7 hours. Both offer spectacular flora and fauna as well as views across the Messinian Gulf as far away (on a fine day) as the white mountains of Crete. The Kalamata-based company provides guides, provisions and all the equipment you will need. climbup.gr Rock climbing in Lagada climbing park If you fancy some ‘proper’ rock-climbing, the crag at Lagada, among the Alpine meadows and pine forests of Mount Taygetos, near Tripi, is a beautiful place to do it. The park lies at around 800 metres and has spectacular mountain views all around - and yet it’s only 14 kilometres from Sparta. With around 100 routes up its limestone cliffs, there’s something for every level of expertise and you can also choose sun or shade. A four-hour tour includes transfer, mountain guide, climbing instructor, climbing shoes and helmet and all the necessary climbing equipment. climbup.gr Sea kayaking in the southern Mani On this one-day trip you start by exploring the picturesque small coastal village of Gerolimenas (which means Old Harbour) then paddle south past impressive limestone cliffs and hidden beaches. You also get the chance to admire Mani’s historic tower houses, including the spectacular village of Vatheia, sadly now abandoned, and to stop at fishing villages such as Gialia, Almiros and Kiparissos. Before heading back north, kayakers enjoy a lunch made from fresh local produce. The trip lasts around six hours, with approximately 2.5 hours paddling, and is suitable for all levels. maniwaterports.com Hiking Navarino Bay This one-day hike starts from the beach of Divari then follows a path around the lagoon that’s the largest wetland in southern Greece and an important shelter for migrating birds. Hikers then cross the beautiful beach of Voidokilia and are free to bathe in its turqouise waters before continuing uphill to the peninsula of Koryfasio. En route there’s a chance to explore the cave of Nestor, the mythical “wise” king of Pylos. The climax is reaching the medieval castle of Paleocastro, from where there are magnificent 360-degree views which you can enjoy over a picnic lunch. aegeanoutdoors.com

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Athens, Clare Hargreaves joins a local street artist on an alternative tour of Athens Athens is reinventing itself. Yes, the majestic Acropolis, ivory or salmon pink depending on the time of day, still proudly keeps watch from its rocky perch on the hectic sprawl below; dazzling gold funerary masks still stare out hauntingly from the glass cases of the National Archaeological Museum; and terracotta-domed Byzantine churches meet your eye round every corner. But the city of culture is transforming. Thanks in part to the 2004 Olympics, Athens has been reborn, revitalized. Neighbourhoods such as Gazi, Keramikos and Psirri are now edgy, creative, with trendy cafes lining their streets, ad-hoc bands making music on their pavements, and vibrant street art rippling across the walls of the neo-classical houses and warehouses. Industrial installations are being turned into sleek designer hotels and state-of-the-art museums, while up-and-coming chefs dish out fusion street food from brightly painted vans or give creative twists to old Greek classics. Athens no longer defines itself as a collection of antiquities, although those remain in all their splendor, it’s being energised as an exciting modern city. But getting under the skin of this complex multi-layered city isn’t easy. So unless you want to risk wasting shoe leather and time, do your research before you go. Or join a tour like those run by Alternative Athens, a company whose purpose is to show you the secret corners, creative hotspots, and working-class neighbourhoods the guidebooks don’t tell you about. Tourists are reinventing themselves, just like the city, says Tina Kyriakis, who set up Alternative Athens in 2013. “Experienced travellers don’t just want to see. They want a deeper understanding of the places they visit and the people who live in them. Athens is a city in multiple layers that you need to uncover in order to truly understand and enjoy it. I decided to create tours around the modern side of Athens as an alternative to the antiquities, hence our name.” So where do you start? To get your bearings it makes sense to kick off at Monastiraki Square, from where you see both the Parthenon, sedate on its rocky hilltop, and the colonnaded remains of Roman emperor Hadrian’s Library. Pass the Roman Agora with its Tower of the Winds, the deliciously esoteric Museum of Greek Popular Instruments (listen through headphones to goatskin bagpipes and calls to prayer by the monks on Mount Athos) and a stunning state-of-the-art hammam, all in historic Plaka, then climb the steep steps towards the Acropolis. This is the district of Anafiotika. If its whitewashed cubist houses and winding alleys make you think you’ve been transported to a Cycladic island, you have. In the mid-19th century, King Otto hired the expert builders from the island of Anafi to construct him a palace. So they built themselves single-storey homes in the style of their island, and these remain today complete with bouganvillea, stray marmalade cats and men in vests sitting outside bead-string doors. Far from the din of the city you see sprawled out below, it’s as peaceful as it’s improbable. Catch your breath as you climb at the 10th-century Byzantine church of Ayii Apostoli Solaki (Holy Apostles of Solaki) or the white-washed Ayios Georgios tou Vrachou (St George of the Rock). Walking west from Monastiraki, you reach another equally fascinating oasis, the area of Keramikos, named after the potteries that once dominated the area thanks to its abundance of clay. It’s also the site of an 11-acre cemetery, unearthed when the main road was laid in 1861, whose tombs date back as far as the Early Bronze Age. Today it’s a tranquil and touching spot, far from the city hubbub and rich in wildlife, where you’ll find poignant memorials in stone (like the grandmother with grandchild on her knee) and a tiny museum containing a 4th-century marble bull. Nearby you spot the skeletons of Gazohori, or ‘gas-lands’, monuments to a very different age, the age of 19th-century industrialisation. Gas was needed to provide the city with streetlighting. Gazi, as the district is called, is now upwardly mobile, in an edgy kind of way, and the magnificent gasometers built by Lyon’s Bonnet-Spazin in the early twentieth century have been converted into a superb cultural centre called Technopolis. Modern art and old photos nestle amid its heavy industrial machinery and theatre brings alive the history of the city’s gasworks. (Another inspiring modern art-industry fusion is the National Museum of Contemporary Art, housed in the former Fix Brewery, south of the Acropolis.) In early summer Gazi’s old bus yard hosts the Athens Street Food Festival at which you can check out for yourself what’s cool on the city’s street-food scene. Gazi’s walls also display a harsher, rawer face of Athens in the form of politically and socially conscious street art and there’s been a surge of creative energy that’s transformed it into what The New York Times dubbed a ‘contemporary Mecca for street art in Europe.’ The more you look the more you see, and much of it is good. Foremost among Athens’ street artists is Ino, born in the city’s port of Piraeus, and along the walls bordering busy Pireos Road you see his spoofs on works by Leonardo da Vinci. Walking from Gazi through the tranquil and little-touristed area of Metaxourgio, and on to Psirri, ambitiously dubbed Athens’ “Soho”, you’ll see works by street artists ranging from Bali-born WD (WD stands for Wild Drawing) to Jason (initially a graffiti artist but now doing street art too), the Blaqk graphic designer duo, Polish-born Dimitris Taxis, and UK-based Alex Martinez aka SHINE.Look out too for Barba Dee who could be dubbed the pyromaniac artist given that fire rips through all his works. Their street art is now so accomplished that home-owners are not only tolerating the artists but actually commissioning them, so you’ll see entire apartment blocks covered. If walking the streets tires, head (via a stroll through Athens’ much-needed green lungs, its vast National Gardens) to the new gallery of the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation, just north of Syntagma Square. Take the opportunity to see works by Monet, Picasso, Paul Klee, Francis Bacon, El Greco, Cezanne, van Gogh and Gauguin among others and two floors of Greek contemporary art with the latter including the famous A Wonderful Day (The Morning Cyclist) by living Greek artist Alekos Fassianos. Fassianos frequently combines modern subjects (often bicycles, which fascinate him) with motifs from mythology, and this painting, like so many of his works, deliberately adopts a two-dimensional Byzantine style, using gold as his main material. Don’t leave the Foundation without eating in its cool courtyard cafe, run with aplomb by the same team who run the Ohh Boy bistro in Pagkrati. “We want our food to be a contemporary version of Greek cuisine,” says Margarita Sideridou, who masterminded its creation. Ingredients in its well-priced dishes are sourced from small Mediterranean producers, including striftoudi (homemade Cretan pasta) that’s combined with feta, spinach and thyme. The highlight, though, is the stellar dessert of kaimaki (mastic) ice cream, stretchy as melted mozzarella, and topped with homemade rose-petal jam. The city’s latest cultural triumph, and a stunning symbol of hope, is the shimmering centre funded by Greek multi-billionaire shipping magnate and philanthropist Stavros Niarchos. Designed by Renzo Piano (of Shard fame), it combines opera house, concert hall, exhibition centre and National Library. After a spin through the 21-hectare park at Stavros Niarchos, head to the natural lake at Vouliagmeni, on the “Athenian Riviera”, for a bathe in its soothing thermal waters while watching the evening sun illuminate the pink limestone cliffs cradling it. There’s definitely more to Athens than the Acropoli. More info: Alternative Athens: www.alternativeathens.com Words and Photos (unless otherwise indicated) by Clare Hargreaves. == Disclosure: Clare Hargreaves was a guest of the Greece National Tourism Organisation. Clare had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Athens in October 2019 for Green Traveller's Guide to Athens. All opinions are the author's own.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki, Sarah Baxter selects a range of places to eat selling local, seasonal food in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Thessaloniki is the hub for the region and is a great place to spend a few days before and after exploring the rest of West Macedonia. Photos: Richard Hammond Food tour of Thessaloniki The food scene in Thessaloniki is sizzling. You can easily spend several days exploring the local markets, tasting local delicacies and the best regional cuisine. Don't miss the Bougatsa at the Kozani Pastry Shop, Trigono Panoramatos pastries at Elenidis, cheese and salami from the Terpsis Deli, traditional Tiropita Greek feta cheese pie from ΟΙ ΠΙΤΕΣ ΤΗΣ ΒΟΥΛΑΣ, washed down with superb coffee at Lena's Bistro. Local tour guide Sassa Panagiotopoulou runs guided tours of to all of these places, including stalls selling fresh fish, olives, fruit and vegetables. She also runs specialised cultural tailor-made tours including religious, urban and various other thematic tours adapted to adults and children of all interests and backgrounds. yourtouristguide.net Photos: Richard Hammond Agios Ahilios Taverna, Agios Ahilios, Prespa National Park This homely family-run taverna sits on the tiny islet of Agios Achillios (population: circa 25), in the middle of Lesser Prespa Lake. Which means the views from its wrap-around balcony are excellent, looking out across the water and the footbridge that connects the island to the shore. The interior is a characterful and artistic space, decorated with the original works left behind by patrons who’ve attended the art symposiums held here over the years. The food is excellent too (see photos above), with every dish created from fresh, natural, local ingredients, including vegetables from the family’s own gardens, meat and cheese from their free-range animals and fresh fish straight from the lake; the Prespa beans, baked with red peppers, are particularly good. All the sweets and liqueurs are homemade too, to recipes perfected over decades. agiosahilios.gr Kontosoros, Xino Nero, Florina Kontosoros is perhaps not the sort of restaurant you expect to find in a rural village in the foothills of northern Greece. Founded by chef Nikos Kontosoros, and now helmed by his talented daughter Iliana, this unexpectedly sophisticated spot puts a modern spin on traditional Macedonian recipes. That includes sout makalo, a poor man’s comfort food of meatballs in a porridge-like stew, given a classy update here, as well as dishes centred on regional ingredients: zingy aivar relish made with Florina peppers, baked Florinela cheese with marmalade, local beef expertly grilled, plus plenty of fruit, herbs and veggies grown in the garden out back. The wine cellar is state-of-the-art and stocks 200 Greek labels, many from nearby vineyards; wine tastings can be arranged. If you drink too much to drive, there’s a handful of smart guest rooms on site. kontosoros.gr Prespeion, Agios Germanos, Prespa National Park Nikos has been a chef for four decades, mostly in the Cyclades, but he moved to Agios Germanos in around 2010 because, he says, he’s always the loved mountains. Now, his taverna on Agios Germanos’s central square is the best in the village. He serves traditional food done well – baked peppers, spicy feta, Greek pies, lake trout, kebabs and beef burgers made from the variety of dwarf cows that graze the fields around the lakes and are renowned for their delicious, low-fat meat. But his real speciality is firing up the spit. On busy days and weekends, he’ll light the charcoal early, season hunks of lamb and pork with oregano, salt and pepper, and let it slow cook for a few hours, until its succulent and tender. It pairs perfectly with a Macedonia-brewed Vergina lager or a tsipouro or two. Central Square, Agios Germanos Ta Psaradika, Mikrolimni, Prespa National Park Zenia and Kiriakos have created a small slice of heaven in little Mikrolimni. Their restaurant, Ta Psaradika, lies by the lakeside in this serene end-of-the-road fishing village; its wide west-facing deck sits on stilts above the water, gazing across to Mount Vrondero, next to a small sandy beach and reedbeds bursting with birds. Zenia’s grandfather founded the place back in 1952, establishing its reputation; it closed for a while, but the couple took over around seven years ago, moving up from Athens and injecting fresh energy and a supremely laidback, cosmopolitan vibe. Cool, chill-out tunes play as a small, thoughtful, changing menu of meze dishes is served: plates like spiced Prespa beans, pickled tsironi (small lake fish), grilled carp caught fresh, local feta and sausage, excellent chips. Finish up with a shot of Kiriakos’s own-recipe tsipouro as the sun sets. facebook.com/groups/psaradika Syntrofia Tavern, Psarades, Prespa National Park Lazaros and Georgia Christianopoulou set up this taverna at the end of Psarades little harbourfront in 1988. Now their children – Eleni, Christina and Germanos – have taken over the reins, revamping the building but continuing the same high standards of food and hospitality. Only the best quality ingredients are used, including lots of lake fish, fresh from the family’s own boat – choose from the selection swimming in the tank outside. The menu features traditional local recipes but changes with the seasons. In summer you can sit on the waterside veranda and enjoy mushroom souvlaki, tzatziki-stuffed pumpkins, crisp salads (using vegetables grown in the family garden), grilled carp and friend tsironi fish. In winter, you can retreat into the fire-warmed restaurant for smoked pork, soutzoukaki meatballs, Florina pepper pasta, home-distilled tsipouro and homemade red wine. syntrofia-prespes.gr Taverna Thomas, Amyntaio, Florina Ask anyone in the Florina region for a restaurant recommendation and they’ll likely say this place. Run by the Paspalis family since 1970, Taverna Thomas serves up exceptionally good food using local products from carefully selected producers. The wine cellar stocks 500 Greek wines too. agonari.gr/en/taverna-thomas Prespes Farm, Prespa National Park The Dimitropoulos family farm has been producing beans in the Prespa region since the 1930s. Nurtured by the nutrient-rich lake waters and special microclimate, they’re considered some of the best in Greece. Products can be ordered online; you can also walk amid their bean fields on the lake’s eastern shore. kingbeans.gr Naoumidis Restaurant, St Panteleimonas, Florina Naoumidis serves up traditional dishes, accompanied by wines from its own vineyard, in a great location. In the warmer months, dine in the courtyard or on the balcony overlooking Lake Vegoritida; if it’s cool, head for the hall, which is warmed by a traditional fireplace and local music. naoumidis.gr Samaras, Xino Nero, Florina This traditional, family-run coffee and tsipouro place has a relaxed atmosphere, great service and a wide array of handmade, good-value meze dishes. Sit out on the pavement, under the blossom tree, or inside, where the walls are hung with old photos and vintage posters. tsipouradiko-samaras.business.site Omegas Tigris, Nymfaio, Florina The name of this small restaurant translates as ‘the greatest tiger’, the nickname of owner Dimitris – quite the character. Sit at a pavement table or in the art-hung interior and tuck into a selection of local dishes – try the kebabs, bean salad and sausage with melted cheese. Village square, Nymfaio Nonas Stergios Legumes & Beans of Prespa, Laimos, Prespa National Park This traditional store on the main road is pretty as a picture, with its picket fence, bright-yellow facade and potted flowers. It sells a selection of high-quality, pesticide-free legumes, from giant beans and elephant beans to lentils and chickpeas. prespesfasolia.gr == The Google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki, Sarah Baxter selects a range of visitor attractions and other places of interest in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Agios Ahilios, Prespa National Park Measuring 1.6km long by 400m wide, the islet of Agios Ahilios sits at the northern end of Lesser Prespa Lake, connected to the mainland by a floating footbridge. The tiny village has only 11 houses – according to local legend, if any more are built, and old one would collapse. Another story goes that, when the waters are very clear, the ruins of the lost city of Lyka can be seen at the bottom of the lake. You might not see that, but on a walk around the island you will come across the impressive ruins of the 10th-century Agios Ahilios basilica, the deserted monastery of Panagia Porphyra and the 11th-century Church of the 12 Apostles. You may also spot the Prepsa dwarf short-horned cattle that are reared here, as well as a bevy of birds. spp.gr Arcturos Bear Sanctuary, Nymfaio, Florina Arcturos is a pioneering non-profit environmental organisation that was established in 1992 by Yiannis Boutaris (former mayor of Thessaloniki) after his son was appalled by the sight of a dancing bear. Since then, Arcturos has successfully campaigned for a ban on such practices and has provided a spacious sanctuary for ill-treated captive bears from across the continent that can’t be reintroduced into the wild. At the visitor centre, on the edge of Nymfaio, you can learn about the organisation’s work, which focuses on addressing illegal wildlife captivity, educating landowners and the public, and protecting wildlife and natural habitats. You can also get thrillingly close to the bears. There are around 20 animals in the large, leafy, hillside enclosures; a guide will lead you around the inner fence and introduce you to any residents that lollop over. The centre is open year-round, excluding January-March, when the bears are in hibernation. arcturos.gr Photos across from top left: wolf, lynx, wolf, and bear. Sarah's guide took her to a bear camera in the woods. Photos: Richard Hammond Wolf & Lynx Conservation Area, Agrapidies, Florina Arcturos isn’t all about bears. Its sister sanctuary in the nearby village of Agrapidies, below Nymfaio, provides a lush, spacious retirement home for wolves and lynx that have been orphaned or rescued from badly run zoos and private collections and are too habituated to humans to be returned to the wild. Importantly, no wild species are bred on site but the sanctuary does breed traditional Greek shepherd dogs. These dogs, which are known to be especially effective at protecting livestock (they never leave their flocks), are being donated to farmers in an attempt to reduce human-wolf conflict and thus safeguard the country’s wild wolf population. A single ticket covers entry to both the bear and wolf sanctuaries. Note, the best time to visit the wolf area is early in the morning – the wolves often retreat into the trees as the day heats up. arcturos.gr Alpha Estate, Amydeo, Florina The viticulturists at Alpha Wine Estate have one aim: to ensure their wines truly reflect the ecosystem in which they are produced – that is, a prehistoric lakebed, surrounded by mountains, that is the coldest, driest appellation in Greece. But while the goal is simple, the operation is not, with cutting edge techniques employed to create some of the country’s most highly rated wines. These are mainly from Greek grape varieties (xinomavro, malagouzia, assyrtiko), and include a smoky, complex xinomavro reserve made from a vine that’s over 100 years old. Visits and tastings at the large, elegant winery are free. Staff will show you around the cellars and pour you a selection of wines to try. There are plans to create walking and cycling routes around the estate, as well as to build a restaurant and boutique hotel. alpha-estate.com Watermill, Agios Germanos, Prespa National Park Down a leafy track, past the 11th-century Byzantine church, lies the old Agios Germanos watermill. There were once around 20 mills on the Agios Germanos River, which runs from the summit of Mount Varnous into Great Prespa Lake. The small stone mill here, originally built in 1930, is the only one that has been fully restored, thanks to the committed efforts of the Society for the Protection of Prespa. It serves as a living monument to the area’s industrial heritage; in 2016 it was recognised with a European Heritage Europa Nostra Award. It is also fully operational, with three different functions: there’s fulling tub for washing fabrics, a fulling mill for textile finishing and a grain mill for grinding flour, using an internal horizontal waterwheel. Behind the mill you can see the headraces and flumes that divert the water inside. It is open to visitors on Saturdays. spp.gr; europeanheritageawards.eu/winners/traditional-watermil-agios-germanos-prespes Hermitages, Prespa National Park The steep cliffs flanking the southern shores of Great Prespa Lake provided a refuge for Christian hermits after the fall of the Byzantine Empire. Hard-to-reach hermitages were created, tucked into the rocks, where monks could find spiritual solace. Three remain: the 13th-century Hermitage of the Metamorphosis, the crevice-tucked Hermitage of Mikri Analipsi and the Hermitage of Panagia Eleoussa. The latter, a stone’s throw from the Albanian and Northern Macedonia borders, is only accessible by boat. Disembarking on a pebble beach, it’s a stiff climb up a zigzagging staircase to reach the small chapel at the top, which is decorated with frescoes; you’ll also find icons and offerings tucked into nooks in the rock walls. The views back out are spectacular, with the lake and mountains framed by the cave’s gaping mouth. spp.gr Naoumidis Farm, Agios Panteleimonas, Florina They don’t just grow any old veg at Naoumidis. This farm near the shores of Lake Vegoritida specialises in deep-red, horn-shaped Florina peppers, famed for their rich, sweet flavour. They are only cultivated in Florina, nurtured by the region’s special soil and microclimate, and have Protected Designation of Origin status. The Naoumidis family use their own seeds and their own stone-built Piperadiko processing planet where they employ traditional processing methods – peppers are peeled by hand, cooked at low temperatures, and wood-smoked or grilled on charcoal. Naoumidis makes a range of different products: whole pickled peppers, pepper caviar spreads, sauces infused with herbs and wild garlic, sweet and spicy pepper ketchup and hot sun-dried Piperokama powder. It’s possible to visit the crop fields, workshop, and cellar, where you can taste and buy the spoils. There is also a small Pepper Museum. piperiesflorinis.gr Domaine Karanika, Karanika, Florina These organic and biodynamic vineyards on the Amyndeo plateau produce a range of quality sparkling and still wines from assyrtiko, old xinomavro and rare limniona vines. Winery tours, winemaking seminars and accommodation in the tent in the middle of the vineyard can be arranged. karanika.com Ktima Kir-Yianni, Naoussa, Florina Located in the eastern foothills of Mount Vermion, Ktima is focused on both great wines and sustainability. The vineyard is carbon neutral, thanks to tree planting and solar panels. It’s open for tours and tastings, and the wider estate can be explored via two cycling trails. kiryianni.gr Museum of Gold and Silver-smithery, Folklore and History, Nymfaio, Florina Housed in a three-storey townhouse in the centre of the village, this small museum displays an eclectic array of objects – letters, jewellery, snuff-boxes – that showcase both the craftsmanship and history of the region. www.museumsofmacedonia.gr/Folklore/Mouseio_Nymfaioy Lake Zazari, Florina There are four lakes in the Florina region. Zazari is the smallest but probably the best set up for visitors. Come for the brilliant birdlife (it’s an important breeding site, part of the Natura 2000 network), canoe excursions and to grab a drink at the lakeside bar. artemisoe.gr Vrondero, Prespa National Park The remote farming village of Vrondero lies at western edge of Prespa. From here you can take a path to the ruined village of Angathoto on the lakeshore; it runs via the Cave of Kokkalis, which was used as a field hospital by the partisans during the Civil War. spp.gr Koula Beach, Prespa National Park There are several swimming spots on the shores of Great Prespa Lake, including the long, sandy beach at Koula. This is also where the channel connecting the Lesser and Great lakes flows, and it’s an excellent place to watch large numbers of pelicans, herons and other birds flying between the two. spp.gr Prespa Visitor Centre, Agios Germanos, Prespa National Park Occupying a restored traditional building near the village square, this centre (open Monday-Saturday) provides useful information about the nature and culture of Prespa. It has a small exhibition plus maps and leaflets detailing hiking route, cycle trails and bird-watching points. fdepap.gr/en/information-centers == The Google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki, Sarah Baxter selects a range of outdoor adventure activities in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Photos: Richard Hammond Horseriding, Sklithro, Florina Nikos Voglidis has been riding horses in the lush countryside around Sklithro since he was a boy. Now, with his father Dimitris, he runs Artemis Tours, and enables visitors to explore the region in the saddle too. The family keeps a herd of well-behaved Pindos horses at their rural Swiss-chalet-like base camp. From here you can head out on guided hacks into the surrounding meadows and hills; these range from 30 minutes to five hours to overnight adventures, and can be tailored to all levels. Rides will likely include crossing streams, clopping through villages, galloping though wildflower fields and eating fresh damsons straight from the tree. Artemis offers other activities too, including excellent guided hikes through the beech and oak forests to hunt for mushrooms and herbs, gentle canoe trips on Lake Zazari and mountain-bike rides on lakeside and forest trails. artemisoe.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Truffle hunting, Prespa National Park Finding precious truffles is pretty easy in Prespa National Park – if you know where to go. And if you have an expertly trained dog at your side. Those with neither expertise nor hound should head out with Nikos Tsilis. Nikos and the boundlessly enthusiastic Avra make great company for foraging walks in the oak, beech and ancient juniper forests. The precise locations will vary depending on time and season – whether you’re searching for black summer truffles or the more greatly prized white winter variety, or perhaps wild mushrooms too. Nikos is young and self-taught but has accrued a wealth of knowledge about these pungent fruiting fungi; he’s even discovered a few new species. He’s also started making his own products including truffle butter, truffle oil, and, his next project, truffle honey. With luck, he may give you a truffle to take away. instagram.com/nick_tsilis Photos: Richard Hammond Birdwatching, Prespa National Park More than 275 bird species have been recorded in Prespa National Park, including the largest colony of Dalmatian pelicans in the world. To help visitors spot as many as possible, six walking trails have been created, which open up access to the best birding sites. For example, Trail 1, a 12km loop from Laimos, gives a great all-round intro to Prespa, passing through a mix of forest, agricultural and wetland habitats – woodpeckers, pelicans and sparrowhawks are all commonly seen. Alternatively, 5km-long Trail 3 takes in Agios Ahilios island and Krina Hill, the latter affording a great vantage over one of the best wetland areas where you might see pelicans, several types of heron, pygmy cormorants and glossy ibises; visit in the late afternoon, when the angle of the sun is better. Information leaflets can be picked up from the visitor centre in Agios Germanos. spp.gr Photo: Richard Hammond Cycling, Prespa National Park A trio of cycling routes has been designed to encourage visitors to get out of their cars and explore Prespa on two wheels. All three are on the flatter, eastern side of the park, so none are too tough. The 36km loop from Laimos to lakeside Mikrolimni passes small villages, cuts through farmland and skirts Kale Hill to reach the water’s edge, with a short detour to the ruins of 12th-century Agia Anna church. The 10km Lakeside Forest Trail also starts from Laimos and follows the lush Agios Germanos River to its mouth, through stands of poplar, willow and silver birch trees. The 12km Beech Forest Trail, which weaves from Agios Germanos up around the forested lower slopes of Mount Varnous is a little more challenging but offers magnificent views. Bikes can be hired from Ecotourismo, based in Laimos. Download the Prespa Trails app for details. ecotourismo.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Hiking, Prespa National Park There are ten hiking trails, ranging in length from 4.5km to 12km, spidering across the park. These open up areas that are otherwise impossible to reach. Plus the slow, quiet nature of walking makes wildlife sightings more likely – on foot, you might come across crawling tortoises, grazing roe deer, the prints and scat of bears and numerous species of birds. Top picks include the route from Psarades to Cape Roti (5km), which runs from the bay and through the forest to a panoramic lookout over Great Prespa Lake; you can also make a short, steep diversion to the 13th-century Metamorphosis Hermitage. Or take the trail from Mikrolimni (10km), following the old pack-horse route to the abandoned village of Kranies, one of the least-visited spots in the park. Trail leaflets and maps are available from the Visitor Centre in Agios Germanos. spp.gr Hiking & Cycling the Paths of Peace, Florina Backed by the German-Greek Fund for the Future, the Paths of Peace project was inaugurated in 2017 to support slow, quality tourism in a region that suffered at the hands of the Germans during the Second World War. There are two waymarked circuits, both designed to take in the rich woodland, dramatic viewpoints, historic sites, lakeshores, riverbanks, churches and cafes in and around the settlements of Lechovo, Asprogeia, Nymfaio, Agrapidia, Sklithro and Limnochori. The 42km route is for hikers, using a mix of forest trails, shepherds’ tracks, cobbled paths and small lanes; there are some steep ups and downs but it’s graded moderate overall, and doable over three or four days. The other route is for cyclists, using quiet country roads; measuring 73km, with a total of 2,394m of ascent, it’s advisable to complete it over two days. Download the free app for information. pathsofpeace.gr Kayaking, Mikrolimni, Prespa National Park There’s nothing official about the kayaking offered at Ta Psaradikia tavern in Mikrolimni, but co-owner Kiriakos is happy to lend out his sit-on kayaks for free in exchange for visitors picking up any rubbish they find out on the lake. facebook.com/groups/psaradika Mountain biking, Prespa National Park Ecotourismo runs guided mountain-biking trips across the remoter western side of the park. Novices could try the 10km route from Pyli, along the banks of Great Prespa, to Psarades. More challenging is a 100km circular via the mountains of Varnoundas, Vici and Triklarios and passing through 16 mostly abandoned villages. ecotourismo.gr Photo: Richard Hammond Hiking, Nymfaio, Florina Six waymarked walking trails have been created in the countryside around Nymfaio, which take between 30 minutes and five hours to complete. An English-language guidebook (called Six Antidotes to Technology) describes the routes in colourful detail. Buy a copy from the Arcturos sanctuary. arcturos.gr Boating, Prespa National Park Taking a boat trip on Great Prespa Lake is the best way to see some of the park’s birdlife up-close – from flocks of pelicans to elegant egrets, fishing herons and spread-eagled cormorants drying their wings. It’s also the only way to access some of the fascinating cave-churches built into the lakeside cliffs. Germanos at the Syntrofia Tavern runs excursions that leave from the little marina in Psarades and head out past the gnarled rocks (where he’ll point out ancient frescos), around Cape Roti and into the main part of the lake, with stops to disembark and climb up to the impressive 14th-century Hermitage of Panagia Eleoussa. It’s possible to book a sunset trip. Alternatively, join Germanos and this crew on an early-morning fishing trip to learn about local traditions and get hands on with the hard work. syntrofia-prespes.gr Paragliding, Prespa National Park For a unique view of the lakes, and a chance to soar with the pelicans, take a paraglide flight. No experience is necessary – you’ll be strapped into a two-seater rig with an experienced pilot. Ecotourismo, based in Laimos, runs trips. ecotourismo.gr Wildlife and cultural walks, Prespa National Park Prespa Lakes Wildlife & Culture Stories offers various excursions that get to the heart of the park, including guided nature hikes, gastronomy days, foraging walks and tours that delve into the complicated history of this crossroads of countries. en.wildlifeandculture.com == The Google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, eat, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities For more information, including nearby places to eat, places of interest and local outdoor activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to West Macedonia and Thessaloniki

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of characterful places to stay in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Places to stay in East Macedonia and Thrace Anthemion House, Kavala Built in the 1920s, this three-story neoclassical townhouse, tucked beneath the arches of the town’s enormous aqueduct, once belonged to a Jewish tobacco merchant. Since 2018 it has been the Anthemion, the dream project of two childhood friends who’ve infused this elegant building with their passion for design, hospitality and sustainability while retaining its character. There are seven rooms, slotted into the house’s original layout, ranging from smart doubles to spacious suites with kitchenettes and balconies – Room 5 sneaks an aqueduct view. The aim is to make guests feel calm and refreshed: think soothing colours, organic products in the stylish bathrooms, anatomic mattresses, and bedside snake plants, which emit oxygen at night and are said to improve sleep. Breakfast is a cornucopia of treats from a local bakery, plus creamy Greek yoghurt, seasonal fruits and homemade jams, served downstairs or in-room – good fuel for exploring Kavala by bike, which are free to borrow. anthemionhouse.com Hotel Koukouli, Soufli Hotel Koukouli is woven right into the history of Soufli. Built in 1850, this handsome old red-shuttered stone-and-brick building functioned as a koukoulospito (cocoon house), where the cocoons that were so central to Soufli’s once-thriving silk industry were stored. These days it’s been transformed into a characterful retreat, where Tolis Alexoudis and his family welcome you – possibly with a glass of tsipouro or two – to rest up and explore the largely undiscovered village and surrounding area. There’s a lovely garden with chairs and tables and a large ground-floor cafe-lounge, where you can sink into the sofas and, each morning, tuck info breakfasts of bread, fresh-baked pies, homemade jams, and honey from local hives. Upstairs, across the two upper high-ceilinged storeys (which once housed the silkworm beds), there are now 11 guest rooms, simply decorated, with wooden floors, air-con and basic kitchenettes. koukoulihotel.gr 31 Doors Hotel, Alexandroupoli A good night’s sleep is virtually guaranteed at 31 Doors. This crisp, clean, modern hotel, opened in 2019 in the port city of Alexandroupolis, doubles up as a store for COCO-MAT, which designs quality, hypoallergenic bedding handmade in northern Greece from all-natural materials. Every room at 31 Doors is equipped with comfy COCO-MAT bed systems, sleep products, furniture, linens, and pillows. The rooms also have restful cool-toned palettes, hushed air-con, powerful showers, and big, wide windows; the doubles and suites at the back are impressively quiet; those at the front face the noisier road but have balconies with views to the sea and the island of Samothraki beyond. A sizeable breakfast buffet – hot options, baked goodies – is served in the basement. The lively waterfront and taverna-lined side streets of central Alexandroupolis are only a five-minute walk away. 31doorshotel.com Elisso Xenia Hotel, Xanthi The Elisso Xenia straddles the ‘border’ in Xanthi. This modern hotel looks over the new town, home to the University of Thrace and full of buzzing bars and tavernas. But step into the streets behind and you’re in the heart of old Xanthi, an atmospheric hillside warren of neoclassical mansions and stone houses lining tight-packed streets. The hotel itself is sleek and contemporary: rooms – 20 doubles plus two spacious suites – have all the expected mod-cons, sizeable balconies, king-size beds with quality mattresses and neat bathrooms with aromatic toiletries, fluffy towels, and robes. A basic breakfast is served downstairs in the glass-sided café, while the hotel’s funky wine bar, Apothiki (Warehouse), serves up a seasonal menu of fresh, local-sourced produce, alongside a decent choice of Thracian wines. hotelelisso.gr Apolithomeno Dasos Villas, Lefkimi A handful of wood-and-stone cottages, each sleeping up to six, sit at the foot of the Rhodope mountains, within Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli National Park and right by the Petrified Forest – trails lead to the 40-million-year-old fossilised trees from the door. Relax in the lounge, cook in the kitchen or fire up the barbecue, then kick back in the rocking chairs on the porch. apolithomenodasos.com Forest Inn Ecotourism Hotel, Dadia This simple guesthouse in Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli National Park is a retreat from the modern world. There are 20 rooms, with either garden or mountain views, all fully equipped with modern comforts. There’s also a cafe-bar serving traditional Greek breakfasts and evening pizzas, and an event hall hosting music, art workshops and more. forestinn.eu Castello Kavala, Kavala Castello Kavala is in a prime location for exploring the city. There’s a touch of class, both to the attentive service and to each of the ten guest rooms, which are smartly furnished and well-equipped, with private balconies overlooking the centre and the old town. castellokavala.gr/index.php/en Mansion To Archontiko, Stavroupoli This mansion in the remote village of Stavroupoli feels like staying in a family home. There are just three bedrooms, all traditionally furnished but with mod-cons too – including WiFi and Jacuzzis – and private sun decks. Breakfast is served in the tree-flanked stone courtyard, with views of the Nestos River. toarchontiko.gr == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of places to eat and buy quality local, seasonal food in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Meltemi, Kavala The meltemi is the north-westerly wind that blows during the summer in the eastern Mediterranean. It’s an apt name for this family-run taverna, which sits on Kavala’s small Perigiali harbour and beach, just to the east of the centre, tickled by the sea breeze. In the summer the large outdoor terrace, right by the water’s edge, is the place to be; come winter, retreat to the cosy restaurant, which is warmed by an open fire and bonhomie, with live Greek music played on Friday and Saturday nights. The dishes on offer – all generous portions – are a mix. Start with appetisers such as unctuous tzatziki, saganaki (fried cheese) and crisp courgette fritters. Then move on to meat (maybe zesty loukaniko sausage flavoured with orange or spicy soutzoukakia meatballs) and super-fresh seafood (spatchcocked sardines, grilled shrimp, red mullet or whatever is in season), washed down with local tsipouro, ouzo or wine. tavernameltemi.com Chrisanthidis Delights, Kavala Mention ‘kourabie’ to anyone from East Macedonia – indeed, to anyone from Greece – and they may come over misty-eyed. These buttery, crescent-shaped biscuits, traditionally made with whole almonds and liberally dusted with icing sugar, became a Christmas classic when the Chrisanthidis family started baking them in 1924. Now, people crave them year-round, so the company has evolved in the past few decades, upscaling production not only of the original kourabie but numerous flavour variations too, from chocolate to caramel, honey to praline. The main bakery is in Nea Karvali, 10km east of Kavala, but there are Chrisanthidis outlets in the city. Visit the bright shop-cafe at Venizelou & Dagkli St Corner, where you can buy packaged biscuits, sweet tsoureki (Easter bread) and pretty pastries to takeaway or order pies, cakes and other snacks to eat at the pavement tables outside. chrisanthidis.gr/en/products/delights Το Oneipo, Soufli “Made with love and passion, we created Το Oneipo – ‘Dream’ – because we were looking for a place to house our dreams.” So say the couple behind this lovely little spot in the silk-making village of Soufli. Because it’s not only a restaurant-cafe but also a hub for live music, performed by both the talented owners and any patrons who feel like bringing along their bouzouki and belting out a tune. Inside, the walls are hung with old photos of Greek musicians but on summer evenings the back terrace, looking over Soufli’s seldom-used railway tracks, is the place to be. The food is rustic, homecooked, generous and good value, with plenty of East Macedonian specialities including thick babos sausage and bligouri (made with nutty bulgar wheat) served alongside classic souvlaki, well-sauced meatballs and big hunks of bread to dip in garlicky tzatziki and melitzanosalata (aubergine dip). facebook.com/oneirosoufli Zourafa, Alexandroupoli With its tables spilling out into flower-filled and fairylight-strung Platia Kyprou square, Zourafa is the connoisseur’s Alexandroupoli choice. The port city’s seafront promenade can be rammed and raucous on hot summer nights, but here, just one block back, there’s a calmer, more laidback feel. The food is reliably good too. The catch of the day, fresh from the Samthraki-Aegean Sea, sits on ice in a cabinet out front if you want to pick your own – friendly staff are on hand to help. Other top choices include the house Zourafa salad (a zingy mix of rocket, lettuce, figs, pomegranate, raisins and parmesan cheese), traditional trahanoto pasta made with Greek yoghurt and served with fresh shrimps, and tangy feta baked in a crust of sesame seeds and drizzled with herb-infused honey. restaurant-67557.business.site Eliá, Xanthi There is a fresh-faced, contemporary and artistic edge at Restaurant Eliá. The decor – minimalist white with dashes of green, and grey-white marble tabletops spreading onto the pavement outside – feels modern and crisp, while the staff are young, bright and friendly. But it’s the innovative menu that really pops. A savoury cheesecake with cream cheese, cherry tomatoes, edible flowers and herb oil sitting on a biscuity base of carob nuts, is almost too pretty to eat. Almost. Accompany this with other creative, flavoursome dishes: first-rate paella, pappardelle with shrimps, squid, mussels, octopus and a cheeky dash of ouzo in the sauce or traditional Thracian horseshoe-shaped soutzouki beef sausage, spiced with black pepper and cumin. Wash it all down with a decent list of Greek wines – perhaps a new-generation retsina from nearby Domaine Apostolidi, made with a blend of assyrtiko and malagouzia grapes. facebook.com/elia.xanthi Krokodeilos, Kavala This small family tavern, central yet tucked away, with a view of the aqueduct, serves some of the best grilled fish in town. The menu is limited but what they do, they do well – and for a good price. Address: Amerikanikou Erithrou Stavrou 2, Kavala To Koutoukaki, Kavala There’s an appealing atmosphere about this traditional, friendly, no-frills taverna in the heart of the old town. Fat steaks, well-charred souvlaki, fish fresh from the sea, all served simply and bountifully with good olive oil and huge bowls of salad. Address: 29 Poulidou Theodorou, Kavala Evangelou Pastries, Kavala Charis Evangelou’s award-winning pastry shop is famous for its bespoke profiteroles – choose from eight different types of chocolate and over 50 toppings to make them exactly to your taste, served with one of his 20-plus flavours of handmade ice cream. facebook.com/evangelou Aparto Bistro Cafe, Kavala This classic European-style bistro, overlooking the castle and the port, has elegant decor, relaxing music and a welcoming vibe. Hangout here all day: come for morning breakfast, coffee and cakes, light snacks and lunches, a range of afternoon teas or cool evening cocktails. en-gb.facebook.com/apartoBistro Apiko, Kavala With its blue-and-white palette and wide windows looking out onto the port, this is a charming spot to eat seafood (or meat or vegan) with sea views. The chefs use the best fish caught daily, which is expertly cooked and served with quality tsipouro and wine, mostly from local producers. apiko.gr Gorgones & Magkes, Kavala Nestled between the aqueduct and the port, down one of the maze of narrow lanes cloaked with the awnings of competing tavernas, you’ll find Gorgones & Magkes. Stop here for the lively vibe, great service, quality tsipouro and ouzo, and good-value meze. facebook.com/gorgoneskmagkes Omen Deli & Wine, Alexandroupoli Located on one of the city’s busiest streets, this hip space is a hub of top local and international flavours. There’s an impressive cellar stocked with Greek wines and microbrews. There are also cheeses, deli meats, honey, olives and more from small producers. Try before you buy in the little courtyard. facebook.com/omendeliandwines Kelesenlis, Serres Find this grocery shop en route between Kavala and Thessaloniki. Its shelves are stacked with quality products, all from small local producers, including cold meats from Lake Kerkini, peanut butter from Ammoudia Serres, award-winning aged tsipouro and high-grade balsamic vinegar made of Serres aronia berries. Address: 14 Mela Pavlou Street, Serres Siris Microbrewery, Serres This modern microbrewery produces quality, non-pasteurised beers, made with love and full of the flavours of northern Greece. Try the strong, herb-fragrant Voreia IPA, the delicately bitter Voreia Pilsner or the award-winning Voreia Smoked Amber Ale. The brewery is open Monday-Friday; staff are happy to show visitors around. sirisbrewery.gr Sardeladiko, Keramoti Sardeladiko is arguably the best place to eat in the seaside resort of Keramoti. Pull up a table at this unpretentious spot while you’re waiting for the ferry to Thassos; service is quick, portions are big and the fried and grilled fish – sardines, monkfish, sole, shrimp – delicious. Address: 64011 Keramoti == Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of outdoor adventure activities in this beautiful part of northern Greece. Kayaking, Nestos Gorge The River Nestos runs 230km from Bulgaria’s Rila Mountains into the Aegean Sea. But en route it must squeeze through the high-sided crags of the Nestos Gorge, a dramatic, wildlife-rich landscape best experienced by kayak. Local adventure operator Riverland, based in the village of Toxotes, offers a leisurely day-trip through the rocky defile that’s suitable for beginners. This 22km paddle runs from the characterful little town of Stavroupoli to Galani (near Toxotes); along the route there are plenty of opportunities for spotting wildlife – the region is a refuge for fauna and flora – as well as relaxing on river isles, enjoying a picnic lunch and jumping in for cooling dips. Those shorter on time could opt for 90-minute trip at the end of the Nestos Narrows, a short-but-sweet paddle passing rock caves and sandy shores, and navigating lush channels thick with dragonflies. riverland.gr Birdwatching & boating, Evros Delta There’s no better way to experience the serenity and biodiversity of the protected Evros Delta wetlands than on a boat trip with Christos Paschalakis. He’s been running Delta Evros Explorer here, at the easternmost reaches of Greece, for many years and knows exactly how to navigate the area’s shifting channels as well as when and where to find its most charismatic species – from Dalmatian pelicans, cormorants and herons to huge white-tailed eagles and hundred-strong flocks of blushing flamingos. His safe, modern, shallow-hulled vessels are open-sided for good viewing but have roof canopies for shelter from the sun and rain. Professional tour guides can be enlisted to come on board to help point out the astonishing array of flora and fauna, while specialist fishing and photography trips can also be arranged. delta-evros.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Mud-bathing, Krinides, near Kavala There are no complicated treatments or high price tags at the Krinides Health & Wellness Centre. The ‘spa’ here has been tens of thousands of years in the making, using only the natural thermal springs and therapeutic clay to cure all manner of ailments – they are said to treat everything from skin diseases to gynaecological disorders and rheumatism. The modern stone-built bathhouses sit in peaceful landscaped parkland close to Ancient Philippi. Visitors must strip (disposable underwear can be provided), shower and then enter the mud pools; there’s one for men and one for women. It’s advised to stay submerged for around 25 minutes to let the mud work its magic before washing it off with the thermal water. There’s also a bar-tavern on site, if you fancy a post-wallow drink. The mud baths are open June to mid-October. Entrance costs just €6. pilotherapia.gr Hiking, Nestos-Rodopi Trail Humans have been walking through the Rhodope mountains for centuries. More recently, some of those old paths have been renovated, waymarked and combined to form the Nestos-Rodopi Trail. Created as part of the Greek Paths of Culture Project, and designated a Leading Quality Trail of Europe by the European Ramblers Association, the trail comprises six sections totalling 70km, beginning in the heart of Xanthi and finishing in the village of Erymanthos. It includes a spur along the Nestos Gorge, utilising the trail cut into the cliffs in the 19th-century by workers building the railway; at the time of writing, the railway is out of action, though its 30 tunnels can still be seen. Beyond the gorge, the trail winds northwards via picturesque Stavroupoli, the ruins of Kalo Nero, Livaditis waterfall, pine and oak forest and handsome arched stone bridges. monopatiapolitismou.gr; era-ewv-ferp.org/lqt City walking tours, Kavala Kavala is a fascinating city. Learn more about its ancient history, 19th-century tobacco boom and modern-day fortunes on a walk around with multi-lingual guide Marianna Christoforou, who also leads tours to nearby sites. touristguides-ngreece.gr/en/meli-en/hristoforou-marianna Sailing , Avdera Set off across the sparkling Aegean with Avdiros Sailing. Its fleet of quality sailing boats is based at the historic port of Avdera, in easy reach of the North Aegean islands such as Thassos and Samothrace. Join a day cruise or rent a boat with or without a skipper. avdiros-sailing.gr Sea kayaking, Thassos Head offshore with Thassos Kayak Club for day and half-day guided paddles around the island. There are options around the coast; one of the best routes is from Skala Marion to Tryipiti (four hours), via sandy bays, white-pebble beaches, high rocks and sea caves. facebook.com/thassoskayak Nestos Adventure Park, Galani At their hub at Galani, on the banks of the Nestos, Riverland runs a range of adventure activities, including archery lessons, two 200m-long zip-wires and climbing on a six-metre-high outdoor wall. Kit is high standard. Perfect for kids. riverland.gr Canoeing, Stavroupoli Another option for idling through the Nestos Gorge is to travel by canoe. Based in Stavroupoli, Nero Alternative Route uses dugouts to navigate a 20km stretch of the river, led by professional guides. Ideal for families and slow-paced exploring. nestosrodopi.gr 4WD touring, Ahlada Plateau Riverland’s 4WD tours give a great overview of the region. Trips leave from Toxotes and wind up the mountain road overlooking the plain of Xanthi to reach the wild Ahlada plateau; highlights include views into the Nestos Gorge, exploring the ruins of abandoned hillside villages and spotting herds of wild horses. riverland.gr == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace, Sarah Baxter selects a range of visitor attractions and other places of interest in this beautiful part of northern Greece. St Lydia’s Baptistery, near Kavala The beautiful riverside baptistery here only dates to the 1970s but is built on the site where the Apostle Paul baptised Lydia of Thyatira, making her the first Christian woman in Europe. The gardens are shady and peaceful, while the inside of the church dazzles with exquisite mosaics. visitkavala.gr/en/sightseeing/iero-proskinima-baptistirio-agias-lidias-filippisias Silk Museum, Soufli Soufli is inseparable from silk. The industry boomed here in the 19th century and put this small Thracian village on the map. Now that tourism is starting to increase – not least since Soufli was selected as one of the world’s Best Tourism Villages by the UNWTO in 2021 – a ‘silk route’ has been established here. Its smart centrepiece is the Piraeus Silk Museum. Housed in a neoclassical mansion (dating to 1883) and traditional two-storey ‘cocoon house’ that once belonged to Dr Konstantinos Kourtidis, this slick, well-presented space explains the backstory of Soufli’s booming silk production through info boards, old photos and documents. It also gives a primer on the lifecycle of the Bombyx mori – the hard-working larvae that spin the precious thread – via interesting videos and displays of old silk worm beds, spinning machines, dyes and looms. piop.gr/en/diktuo-mouseiwn/Mouseio-Metaxis Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli Forest National Park Encompassing a tree-cloaked swathe of the southeastern Rhodope Mountains, this national park is one of the most important havens for raptors in Europe. With luck, it’s possible to see 36 of the continent’s 38 species of diurnal birds of prey here, from peregrine falcons and imperial eagles to griffon and Egyptian vultures, and the only breeding population of black vultures in the Balkans. The visitor centre, near Dadia village, is the best place to start; the interpretation is excellent with lots of informative, interactive displays. From here, forest trails lead into the park’s core protected zone up to either the Byzantine ruins on Gibrena Peak or to the observation hide – both vantages offer a chance to spot numerous raptors (best early, when it’s cool) as well as roe deer, wildflowers and many other bird species, from woodpeckers to black storks. The wider park can be explored by car, bike or on foot. dadia-np.gr Petrified Forest, Lefkimi The Petrified Forest of Lefkimi, within the Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli Forest National Park, is one of the best places in the world to see extremely old trees. Regarded as unique due to its rareness, age and size, the fossilised flora that’s been discovered here dates back 40 million years; finds include petrified cinnamon and palm leaves, ancient oak trunks, the remains of fish and corals, and numerous shark teeth. At the small Fossil Information Centre you can learn more about the region’s rich geology and see some of these treasures on display, including a rare, high-quality fossil of a plant that’s the ancestral form of the modern grape. Two short, marked trails lead from the centre into the surrounding woodland, where you can see several half-exposed and weather-worn petrified trees still laying on the forest floor. apolithomenodasos.com/en/the-fossil-forest-of-lefkimi Evros Delta National Park The Evros River springs from Bulgaria’s Rila Mountains and runs along the Turkey-Greece border before emptying into the Aegean, forming a wide, wonderful delta that’s one of the most important wetland areas in Europe. Hundreds of thousands of birds, of over 300 species, find refuge here, some year-round, some migrating. There’s always something to see although winter is an especially abundant time when you might spot huge flocks of white-fronted and greylag geese as well as a flamboyance of flamingos. Also look out for elegant great white egrets and herons, hen and marsh harriers, osprey and enormous white-tailed eagles. The main visitor centre is in Loutra Traianoupolis; from here you can drive out amid the ever-shifting landscape of lagoons, swamps, marsh and reed beds, and book boat tours that navigate the narrow channels and head out to the open water to see the birds close up. https://www.evros-delta.gr Photos: Richard Hammond Xanthi historic district, Xanthi The old town of Xanthi is a half-crumbling, hill-tumbling maze – a great place for getting semi-lost and soaking up the cultural mix of this historic settlement at the meeting point of European, Black Sea, Mediterranean and Asian cultures. A walking route, marked with brown information plaques, weaves via the most important buildings. Follow the trail past the handsome Memet Pasha house, the interesting ironwork of the Ladas Mansion, the old Akathistos Hymn basilica, the Achrian Mosque (once the heart of a thriving Muslim neighbourhood), the Christos Pavlidis art gallery (housed in one of Xanthi’s oldest buildings) and the fine-but-faded facade of the Kougioumtzoglou-Kaloudi Mansion. As well as cultural landmarks, there are numerous tavernas, cafes and craft shops to tempt a stop, while Plateia Emporiou, the main square, hosts a lively market every Saturday morning where you can buy everything from local fruit to cheap clothes and live snails. visitgreece.gr/mainland/thrace/xanthi Archaeological Site of Philippi, near Kavala First founded in 356 BC by the Macedonian King Philip II, later developed by the Romans and visited by Paul, the apostle who brought Christianity to the continent, the city of Philippi lies at the foot of a hill on the Via Egnatia, the ancient trade route that linked Europe and Asia. What remains is impressive: visit the Archaeological Museum of Philippi to learn more about the history and view finds from the site, such as sculptures, coins, jewellery and mosaics, then head to the site itself. You can wander amid the old walls and gates, the remnants of the Forum, the Roman cistern where Paul was imprisoned, the large temple complex and the early basilicas, dating to the fifth century. Most impressive is the large amphitheatre, built by Philip, which still hosts performances as part of Kavala’s annual Philippi Festival (July to August). visitkavala.gr/en/sightseeing/arxaiologikos-xoros-filippon Kavala Fort, Kavala For the best views in Kavala, head to the city’s hilltop fortress. This commanding bastion at the highest point of the city’s Panagia peninsula was built from local granite in the early 15th century, atop the remains of the older Byzantine Acropolis of Christoupolis. Twisting up between the atmospherically dilapidated buildings of Kavala’s old town to get there is part of the fun. Once inside the walls of the fortress itself you can see the remains of the old guardhouse, arsenal, food stores and cistern; there’s also a little cafe and an open-air theatre that hosts frequent events and performances. But best is the central circular tower – climb the narrow, winding, uneven steps up to the top to look out over the city’s roofs to the mountains behind and Thassos island looming out to sea ahead. castle-kavala.gr Art of Silk Museum, Soufli Another stop on Soufli’s ‘silk route’, this museum and shop of the Tsiakiris Silkworks is housed in a fine neoclassical building. Exhibits run visitors through all stages of silk production from sericulture to weaving, and include vintage looms and working threading machines. silkmuseum.gr Gnafala Folk Art Museum, Soufli Run by the Bourouliti family, Gnafala is part textiles shop, part cultural museum. The owners have collected an array of items that tell the story of life in this outpost of Greece, from traditional costumes and wedding dresses to old photographs and farming equipment. A fascinating insight. gnafala.blogspot.com Givre Silk Factory, Soufli As of mid-2022, the renovation of this early-20th-century silk factory complex was still in progress. It comprises a vast three-story cocoon house, 28m-high chimney, outbuildings and vast spinning mill where the old machines can still be seen. When finished it will provide an in-depth insight into the industrial process and an important social commentary. There will be a bar and workshops too. soufli.gr Monastery of St Nicholas, Lake Vistonida, Evros Delta Floating near the village of Porto Lagos, the Monastery of St Nicholas is built on two islets in bird-busy Lake Vistonida. Walk across the boardwalk to its white-washed chapel to see devout monks and Dalmatian pelicans. evros-delta.gr/en/the-management-body/information-center Poros Stork village, Evros Delta In 2016 the EuroNatur Foundation declared Poros an official European Stork Village due to its commitment to protect storks and their habitats. In season, the birds can be seen nesting atop telegraph poles along the main road; an annual Stork Festival, held in early June, celebrates the return of the migratory birds. euronatur.org/en/what-we-do/news/european-stork-village-2016-designated Meligeysis Honey Farm, Komnina Venture into the mountains behind Xanthi to find the tiny village of Komnina and the Meligeysis Honey Farm. The owners will show you around, talk about their bees and ply you with sweet treats; you can also buy a range of natural products, from sweet spreads to skin care creams. meligeysis.gr Domaine Apostolidi, near Xanthi The Apostolidis have been making wine since the 1950s but, in the past two decades, the vineyard has transformed from amateur family business to start-of-the-art domaine, with sustainable and biodynamic cultivation and production innovations leading to high-quality wines made using traditional Greek grapes. domaineapostolidi.gr == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

Sarah Baxter gets under the skin of the local culture of East Macedonia It was nearing midnight, and a long, warm day was drawing to a close in the Eastern Macedonian village of Soufli. The plates had been scraped of their last delicious morsels – babo sausage, pilau-like pligouri, spicy baked feta. The tsipouro was flowing. And two men at the next table had pulled out their instruments. “The one with the bouzouki is the owner,” local archaeologist Athanassios Gouridis told me as we turned to watch. “I think he only opened the restaurant so he’d have somewhere to play.” And play he did, sending traditional rebetika songs into the night air, across the rooftops and out over the mulberry trees. “This music is like the blues,” explained Athanassios. “It’s the music of poverty, brought from the east.” When the men broke into ‘Tis Dikaiosinis Ilie Noite’ – ‘Sun of Justice’, a hymn to Greek freedom – everyone on the terrace (all locals bar me) grew misty-eyed and sang along. Soufli sits on the easternmost reaches of the Rhodope Mountains, right by the Turkish border, close to Bulgaria too; the culture at this crossroads of Europe is complicated, with music, food and heritage all intermixed. But little Soufli has a distinct identity. While it’s off the beaten track – “It’s not only foreign tourists,” admitted Athanassios, “many Greeks don’t know where Soufli is” – it’s starting to be noticed. In 2021 Soufli was named one of the planet’s Best Tourism Villages by the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO). This global initiative was launched to shine a spotlight on villages where tourism preserves traditions, celebrates diversity, provides opportunities and safeguards biodiversity. Soufli ticks all those boxes. This was clear as soon as I arrived at the handsome Hotel Koukouli (meaning ‘cocoon’), a stout stone-and-brick building, formerly one of Soufli’s old silk cocoon houses. Sericulture flourished here from the 19th century; though demand dropped after the Second World War, when cheaper synthetic fabrics boomed, the silk industry continues to shape the town. The best place to begin an exploration of this heritage is at the smart Silk Museum, also occupying an old silk cocoon house. Here I learned about the lifecycle of the Bombyx mori and the process of harvesting their precious thread – each of these 25g larvae spins an astonishing 2,000 metres of silk. At Soufli’s Art of Silk Museum, I met the critters themselves – a tray of chalk-white silk worms were munching greedily on mulberry leaves, the only thing they eat. More eclectic was the Gnafala Folklore Museum, where the Bourouliti family have turned part of their silk shop over to a treasure-trove of items donated by locals, from farming paraphernalia to traditional maternity bracelets. Dimitra Bourouliti also creates jewellery from silk cocoons, and offers earring-making workshops. “It’s important to maintain the folk art – it’s our roots,” she told me, “but also to make something new.” Soufli’s ‘silk route’ is wide-ranging, but also a work in progress. For instance, Athanassios showed me around the Tzivre Factory complex, first built in 1909 and now in various states of renovation – when finished, hopefully in 2023, it will be a museum, cultural centre and bar. The 28m-high chimney still stands, and the vast spinning hall, with its phalanx of original dusty machines, has been restored. In the three-storey cocoon house, we stepped gingerly over dilapidated wooden floors, between the ranks of broken multi-level beds where silk worms were reared – restoring this is the next project. While Soufli still has its silk, the city of Kavala, 200km further west and the main seaport of Eastern Macedonia, has all but lost the industry that made its fortune. Tobacco was the cash-crop here, which saw the port thrive in the 19th century, and wealthy merchants build beautiful, show-off warehouses – it was good for business. Fortunately, the lively city still has plenty to attract the curious traveller, as I discovered with guide Marianna Christoforou. She met me at the stylish Anthemion Hotel, one-time mansion of a Jewish tobacco merchant. The building is lodged in the shadow of the arched Ottoman aqueduct that once brought water from the mountains to Kavala’s hilltop citadel and still cuts a dramatic 25m-high dash through the town. Marianna led me up to the citadel, around the mazy, ramshackle streets, right to the upper fortress, for views over the rooftops and across the Aegean to the island of Thassos. Then we snacked on local kourabiedes biscuits and ate at a harbourside taverna, where the sardines virtually leapt from sea to plate. We also explored out of town. On Kavala’s outskirts lies the walled city of Philippi, founded in 356 BC by Macedonian King Philip II on the Via Egnatia, the ancient route linking Europe and Asia. I twirled in its well-preserved theatre, wishing I’d timed my visit for one of the performances still held here. We also visited the nearby Baptistry of Lydia, built on the site where the Apostle Paul baptised the first Christian woman in Europe. The building here now dates from the 1970s, a temple of exquisite mosaics by the river, amid a serenity of plane, poplar and walnut trees. “My grandchildren were baptised here,” Marianna told me as she lit a taper and placed it by Lydia’s effigy. “Many come here on pilgrimage.” In antiquity, this whole area was surrounded by swamp land. Now, all that remains of that mire are the Krinides mud baths, were €6 will get you a wellness dose to treat everything from skin diseases to rheumatism. “Doctors give it on prescription – it’s a panacea,” Marianna told me as we stripped down to disposable knickers and descended, with some effort, into the thick, grey-brown gloop. It was like stirring yourself, naked, in a raw chocolate brownie mix. A mix with little frogs hopping about on the surface… Groups of women (there are separate baths for the sexes) chattered around us. “It’s a good place to come for gossip,” Marianna said. We gossiped ourselves, talking about the acropolis of Philippi, visible beyond the fence, as well as about her family and life in general. When I hauled myself out, I felt refreshed, taut, even silky. I had gotten a little under the skin of this little-visited side of Greece – and it had certainly gotten under mine. == With thanks to Joysters for facilitating our visit in the summer of 2022. Read more about what to do, where to stay and eat, in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace

Sarah Baxter discovers a patch of paradise – teeming with wildlife – in the far north-eastern corner of Greece that’s well off the beaten tourist track Not many international visitors make it to the ancient lands of Macedonia and Thrace in the far north-eastern corner of Greece at the end of the Rhodope mountain chain and at the meeting of continents. But avian visitors? This place is heaving. That’s what I learned as I peered through a spotting scope in the hilltop hide at Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli Forest National Park. As I focused on the black kites baubling a leafless tree, and the black and griffon vultures hunched on the ridge below, local guide Chrysoula Bampaka told me why the park is such a hotspot for birds. “It’s a crossroads for migrating species,” she explained. “There are good rock outcrops here, good trees and few people.” Indeed, the low, stream-tickled pastures and oak-and-pine-cloaked slopes of Dadia-Lefkimi-Soufli are one of the most important protected areas on the continent. Some 36 of Europe’s 38 species of diurnal birds of prey can be seen here – from sparrowhawks and red-footed falcons to imperial and golden eagles – as well as black storks and a noisy twitterati of woodland birds. At the other end of the hide, two rangers sat quietly, making their daily count: fifty so far, including an Egyptian vulture. Though that’s nothing. “It was 6 August 2010,” Chrysoula recalled with a delight and precision only possible from someone passionate about their job, “we had over 200 birds here at one time.” That same level of abundance continued as I made my way out of the lush foothills and towards the starker, striking landscapes of the Evros Delta. Here, the Evros River – which forms the border between Turkey and Greece – meets the Aegean in a rich morass of lakes, lagoons, swamps, sand dunes and reedbeds. Drainage projects have threatened this unique habitat over the years but it was declared a Ramsar-protected wetland in 1974. With around 320 species recorded, the birdwatching is excellent. “I come here every week – if I don’t I feel there’s something missing from my life.” Local photographer Nasos Nalbantis had joined me on a trip with Evros Delta Explorer and we were bouncing along a track through the marshes – trying not to run over tortoises – to reach the mooring of Captain Christos’s flat-bottomed boat. The blazing sun heat-hazed the maze of shallow pools and the swathes of olive-green and burgundy glassworts. Curlews, egrets and a glossy ibis waded in the water; a bee eater buzzed above. “There’s a marsh harrier,” Nasos said, giving the bird barely a nod. “They’re like sparrows here.” Once aboard the boat, we navigated the delta’s winding channels, passing innumerable herons and rickety fishing huts slumped amid the reeds, to reach the open water. There didn’t seem to be too much going on at first as Christos steered us further out: a few washed up trees were providing perches for pelicans, a lone fisherman was casting his net. Then we noticed a pale patch on the horizon begin to move: a flock of flamingoes, subtly striding towards shallower water, where they knew boats couldn’t follow. Well, most boats. With care and skill, Christos navigated us a little closer, closer, closer… and then up they went. One, ten, 50, the whole elegant squadron, rising together as if bound by invisible threads, giving us the perfect, slow-motion flyby so that, for a minute, the blue sky was shot through with a volley of pink arrows, the only sound the light beat of their wings. I was to get more hands-on for my next watery foray. The Nestos River, a little west of Evros, also flows into the Aegean; its course is also a haven for wildlife, and its surroundings are also relatively little-visited. “This is an unknown part of Greece,” Ilias Michailidis, founder of Riverland Adventure, told me as we readied for a day of exploring. First, we hopped into kayaks to experience one of the Nestos’s most dramatic stretches, where the crystal-clear water meanders through a particularly tight, craggy defile in the Rhodope Mountains. Here, osprey and vultures soar overhead while tenacious Haberlea rhodopensis plants – survivors from the last Ice Age – cling to the limestone walls. Incredibly, a railway was hacked into the rock in the late 19th-century, which once carried the Orient Express this way; with the line currently defunct, the only way through the gorge now is to trek along the vertiginous pathway created by those dogged railway engineers – which is now a first-class hiking trail – or to do as I was and paddle through. “There are many stories about gold being hidden here,” Ilias told me as we sculled across the cool shallows, gazing up at the looming cliffs, pocked with caves. “This is a place of legends, linked to Orpheus, where so many cultures have crossed over the centuries.” It was peaceful today though, as we glided past sandy beaches and hunting herons, and diverted down a lush channel where seeds drifted like snow and dragonflies seemed to shimmer on every reed. I didn’t really want to stop kayaking but Ilias had more to show me. We transferred to his jeep and hairpinned up the mountain road to look down on the meandering river we’d just paddled. We dropped deeper into the hinterland to search for wild horses in the valley’s abandoned villages. And we visited the Meligeysis farm in tiny Komnina, where Geysis Toulomidou introduced us to her hardworking bees and plied us with fresh-fried doughnuts drenched in her own honey. But we finished back by the water, this time on Lake Vistonida. Vistonida, along with the Nestos Delta, sits within the National Park of East Macedonia & Thrace, another vital wetland where birds flourish. As the sky faded from brilliant-blue to soft periwinkle, we walked out to St Nicholas Monastery, which floats on two islets in the lake. At this sunset hour it was quiet, just a few cormorants drying their wings, a ginger-white cat lolling on the church steps and two dark-robed monks, one tending a vegetable patch, the other sitting on a bench, deep in thought. It was just the sort of place for thinking – peaceful, calm, removed from the clamour of the world. Until another bunch of rowdy visitors turned up: I watched them arrive en masse, big, boisterous types, making a din. More avian tourists of course – this time pelicans – making sure that, in this region at least, us humans stay well out-numbered. == With thanks to Joysters for facilitating our visit in the summer of 2022. Read more about what to do, where to stay and eat, in our Green Traveller's Guide to East Macedonia and Thrace

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain, our travel writer Ginny Light experiences the culture and heritage of Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country - the prehistoric, the medieval and the modern. Prehistoric Green Spain The climate of Green Spain and its bounteous soils and plentiful seas, have been a draw for populations from prehistory to modern day, all of whom have left their mark in an extraordinary trail of heritage through the ages. In Cantabria exists one of the largest collection of prehistoric art and artefacts in Europe, matched only by those discovered in southern France. Visitors to the area can see cave art at a number of sites including at Altamira (pictured above), where there is a state-of-the-art museum and replica cave alongside the original. Visits to the actual cave art are limited to one tour per week for five people, drawn by ballot from visitors who buy tickets on a Friday morning. But seeing the replica, or Neocave, is astounding and will surprise those who may not expect this to be one of the highlights of the region. The cave has been recreated as close as possible to the real thing, with the art covering the ceiling of the rear chamber. There's a quiet beauty to this art - bison in bold charcoal outlines and sweeping ochre shading with eyes full of emotion. In fact, when the art was first discovered in 1879 the authenticity of it was doubted because of the prowess of the paintings. It was also difficult to believe that palaeolithic man would produce art on this scale when life was so challenging and focused on survival. The quandary was why so much time would be spent on something without any practical use. There are a few theories - that it is regarded as ritual, or as a good omen to aid hunting or as a record of events. The power of the drawings owes to the effectiveness of the setting. The rock surfaces are authentic and together with the videos and explanation, it is not a leap of imagination to conjure images of prehistoric man daubing the paint into the cave walls. The museum has numerous exhibits about prehistoric life, how the discoveries at Altamira were made in 1879 and other palaeolithic discoveries from across Spain, much of it from Cantabria. Not all displays are translated into English but there is enough for non-Spanish speakers. There is also a gift shop and drink and snack machines. Close to Altamira is a beautifully preserved medieval town, Santillana del Mar, which developed around a collegiate church some 15,000 years after the cave paintings were created. The pale stone cobbled streets have been smoothed by foot traffic, not just of modern day tourists but also the thousands of pilgrims who have passed through en route to Santiago de Compostela. They have also left their mark on the walls outside the town’s most famous building, Santa Juliana. Deep carved crosses adorns the wall where tourists now sit to admire the gallery of cloisters over the church door and the comings and goings of the town’s main square. There are fine examples of Roman architecture across Green Spain but nowhere is it more intact than in Lugo. The town, known during Roman times as Lucus Augusti, remains completely encircled by its original Roman walls. They are considered the best example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe. Visitors can walk around the 2.3km walkway along the top of the walls for a bird’s eye view of the city. It is a good opportunity to walk off the ‘pinchos’ - tapas style small plates of food - that come free with a drink in many of the bars in the Old Town. Lugo is famous for its cathedral, Praza de Santa Maria, a 12th century Romanesque building with additions in the Baroque, Gothic and Neoclassical styles. Also popular, especially for walkers, are the Roman baths, now part of a modern spa complex in the Hotel Balneario de Lugo, close to the Roman bridge over the River Mino.Such is the town’s history that every year, it is transformed for Lucus Augusti, a re-enactment festival each June.The other great festival is Fiestas de San Froilán in October, a celebration of music, theatre, parades, street markets and tapas, notably Galician style octopus. Azpeitia has a handful of historical buildings but this does include the spectacular Sanctuary de Loyola. It takes a leap of faith to get here - it is a largely industrial area along the River Urola so it is all the more surprising when a monumental basilica with two wings and surrounding gardens loom large. It was built in the 17th century in honour of St Ignatius of Loyola, who was born nearby. The basilica is breathtaking. The dome is painted blue, pink and gold gilt with coats of arms radiating out from a glass cupola from which dangles a vast crystal chandelier. There’s a mirror in the centre of the basilica, which means you can look down, rather than straining up, and give the ceiling the lengthy attention it deserves. The altar is also extraordinary, inlaid with intricate images - a drum, a pierced heart, a fortress and all around is marble in every hue. Extravagance and colour also run wild in one of Gaudi’s most eccentric buildings, The Caprice, in Comillas, Cantabria. The exterior of this private house is a chequerboard of enamel yellow sunflowers and bright green tiles. It has a lookout tower, metal balconies shaped like musical notes and star-shaped chimney funnels. It was built in 1883 for a wealthy lawyer and property developer called Maximo Diaz de Quijano. He chose Comillas because it was the fashionable summer retreat of wealthy and noble Spaniards - even the Spanish royal family spent holidays there. Much of the wealth in this region during the 19th century was generated by emigres, or Indianos, who made their fortune in south America and wanted to show off their wealth back home. There are colonial style mansions with arched windows, terraces with balconies and distinctive yellow, cream and terracotta paintwork. Maximo Diaz de Quijano wanted to out do them all. The house has a complex history including a time spent derelict but has been bought and restored as a museum with information about Gaudi as well as many of his drawings and some of his furniture. Modern For modern art and architecture, Green Spain has so much to offer. From the whacky vineyards of Rioja such as the Marques de Riscal (pictured above) or Bodegas Ysios (pictured below), to Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim and Renzo Piano’s Centro Botin in Santander, or Chillida’s wind comb sculptures in San Sebastián (also pictured below), there are so many arresting and thought-provoking sights. The Guggenheim Museum (above) in Bilbao is art in itself and if your time or budget is short, then it is even worth just a perambulation of the exterior to enjoy the extraordinary building from every angle and the various sculptures and temporary exhibits around the outside. The bridges across the Nervion River are also a good viewpoint from which to enjoy Gehry's metal curves. Otherwise, there is free art across the region, including a contemporary art trail in San Sebastián to see Chillida’s wind combs as well as some of his less well known works. Words by Ginny Light. Photos by Christoper Willan. == More information: Spanish Tourist Office: www.spain.info Galicia: www.turismo.gal/inicio Asturias: www.turismoasturias.es/en/home Cantabria: www.turismodecantabria.com/inicio Basque Country: www.tourism.euskadi.eus/en == Disclosure: Ginny Light was a guest of the Spanish Tourist Office. Ginny had full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Green Spain in the winter of 2018 for Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain. All opinions are the author's own.

From the sandy beaches and coastal towns of Costa Brava to the snowy forests and towering peaks of Val d’Aran, Greentraveller’s bloggers Richard Hammond and Holly Rooke travelled with photographer Christopher Willan through the wonderfully diverse landscapes of northern Catalonia into the Pyrenees. The trip was featured on Twitter and Instagram using the hashtags #CatalunyaExperience #Visitpirineus. Below are some of the highlights of the trip, including a short film we produced. This video shows highlights from our 12-day trip in Catalonia, from the sandy beaches and coastal towns of Costa Brava to the snowy forests and towering peaks of Val d’Aran. Filmed by Greentraveller Productions Compiled by Richard Hammond and Holly Rooke with additional research by Florence Fortnam. Photos by Christopher Willan. == Disclosure: Richard Hammond, Holly Rooke and Christopher Willan were guests of the Catalan Tourist Board. Richard and Holly had full editorial control of the review, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting Catalonia in the winter of 2017 for Greentraveller's Guide to Catalonia. All opinions are the authors' own.

Paul Bloomfield is blessed with a bird-watching bonanza while kayaking in Terres de l'Ebre, tries his hand at rice planting, and discovers a remarkable Cathedral of Wine Egrets – I’ve had a few. Well, six, to be precise, and of two species: great and little, which I spotted as they perched on branches alongside the Ebro River before taking off with long, languid flaps. They were joined by grey, purple and – my favourite – squacco herons, the latter’s delicate peach-hued plumage cloaking milk-white underwings revealed when it lifted off from the gently dappled surface of the Ebro. These spingly-legged, snake-necked birds are mesmerising enough at any time, but my encounter was all the more special as it was at water level. I’d joined local kayak guide Eloi Balsells for a gentle morning’s birdwatching adrift on a peaceful stretch of the river between Garcia and Móra d’Ebre, where the gentle flow meant that we could skim close to any birdlife with just a flick of the paddle. Watch Paul kayaking and bird watching in Terres de l’Ebre in our video highlights of his trip: Video filmed and produced by Greentraveller Productions Just minutes after pushing off, a brief detour down a tributary was rewarded with turquoise and orange flashes as a kingfisher (charmingly and descriptively named ‘blauet’ in Catalan) darted around us. Moorhens and coots lurked in the reeds alongside the bank, and housemartins in their hundreds swooped and swarmed around a bridge pimpled with their nests. Eloi directed me and my three companions into a still-quieter channel between an island and the right bank, beneath rust-stained cliffs. Here the melodious concerto of birdsong swelled and almost drowned out the soft splashes of our paddles; white wagtails bobbed their behinds on the banks, and a great egret chased off a grey heron he deemed to be trespassing. Finally we emerged into the still-sluggish main stream, where two squacco herons provided a dash of subtle pink. All in all, it was two hours of birdwatching bliss. But then most of the Terres de l’Ebre, Catalonia’s south-westernmost province, is a natural wonderland – reflected in its designation as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve in 2013. Like the rest of Catalonia, it boasts a diverse range of landscapes and habitats, from the rocky, rugged interior to sweeping beaches adjoining the better-known Costa Daurada and the shimmering wetlands of the Ebro Delta Natural Park. That feather-and-float interlude from Garcia marked the start of a snaking journey south through the province. From our pull-out point at Móra d’Ebre, it was a short hop south-west to El Pinell de Brai, where a rather different aspect of the region’s natural bounty is showcased at the Catedral del Vi – the Cathedral of Wine. Established by a cooperative founded a century ago in 1917, this modernist masterpiece exists to showcase the products of vines nearly as venerable as the building itself, some over 80 years old. Here we sampled vintages of the local Terra Alta denomination: white grenache, typical of the region; oak-aged shiraz, warm and spicy; and a dessert wine redolent with honey and orange. Inside, the ‘cathedral’ label makes more sense: instead of columns, the lofty ‘nave’ is packed with soaring vats, and a visit to the upper level reveals the sinuous, organic struts and pillars reminiscent of Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia – unsurprising, given that this building’s creator, Cèsar Martinell, was a disciple of the great architect of Barcelona. In the province’s west rise the extraordinary, bulbous outcrops known as Roques de Benet in Els Ports Natural Park, a playground for hikers. And artists: it was near here, in the picturesque hilltop village of Horta de Sant Joan, that Picasso retreated in his formative years from 1897 and again in 1909, and where he claimed to have learned his craft. We, however, had come to pedal rather paint, and bypassed the village’s popular Picasso museum. Instead we joined cycling guide Josep Palleres and freewheeled downhill to the nearby Greenway cycling trail. Converted from a disused railway track, this delightfully smooth track loops from Arnes, on the border with Aragon, some 49km to Tortosa via Horta – a convenient point from which to sample a scenic downhill stretch. From the disused station at Horta we passed beneath craggy hills and olive groves, the air scented with herbs alongside the track. To our right loomed the distinctive outcrops of Els Ports, while beneath our wheels trickled the Canaletes River, a tributary of the Ebro spanned by high bridges from which canyons beckoned temptingly. At Bot, an old railway carriage has been converted into a bar-café – an ideal spot to refuel en route. Instead we pressed on, through echoing tunnels and past folded red-rock gorges, to Antiga Estació de Benifallet (Benifallet Old Station), where another café and guesthouse refreshes cyclists. The scenery unfolding alongside the path is diverse and spectacular, and we finished our ride with vows to return and complete the full trail. South we continued, to the mouth of the Ebro. Long ago this vast delta glistened with saltpans, till the formerly brackish lowlands were flooded with river water for rice production, which now covers some 21,000 hectares – coincidentally creating an immense haven for birds. Pale pink juvenile flamingos stilt-walk and sift through the mud for crustacean tidbits, alongside glossy ibis and more herons and egrets; sharp-eyed marsh harriers soar above, scouting for prey; and copious ducks, moorhens and coots fill the air with their coarse calls. Alongside the typical cob-and-thatch houses of the delta I tried my hand – not altogether successfully – at punting the traditional shallow boats used by fishers and hunters, before joining local legend M Polet for a lesson in rice growing. “First, we take the stalks, harvested with serrated scythes, and thresh the grains,” he told me. “We use a heavy iron caduc pole – a traditional Arabic tool – to dehusk the rice, tossing it in the air to separate the grains. Then we sift through flat sieves to isolate the good grains. It’s a long, laborious process – but it makes the best (and most expensive) rice in the world!”Finally, M Polet ordered me to remove my shoes to experience the lot of the rice-grower. Into the warm, soothing mud of the paddy we squelched, soft sediment oozing between my toes. “It’s my gym,” pronounced M Polet. “Working in the mud builds thigh muscles at the same time as giving me a foot massage!” If that episode proved one thing, it was that I’m better at eating rice than harvesting it – and local specialities such as arròs tot pelat, a delectable seafood paella, are well worth seeking out. But it seemed apt to end my visit to the lands of the Ebro River knee-deep in the these waters – the same waters nurturing the birds, grapes, rice and shellfish that make the region such a diverse, delicious treat. Words and photos by Paul Bloomfield Further information: En Blau offers birdwatching kayak tours on the Ebro River.The Catedral del Vi at El Pinell de Brai offers guided tours, wine and olive-oil tastings and plenty of products to buy. There’s also an excellent restaurant. Esgambi offers cycle hire, guided and supported bike rides along the Greenway around Horta de Sant Joan. Nòmada Viatges runs various activities around the Ebro delta, including cycling and interpretive visits. Delta Polet offers a range of experiences in the delta, including walking, gastronomic tours and the chance to sleep in a traditional cob-and-thatch house. === Disclosure: Paul Bloomfield was a guest of the Catalan Tourist Board. He has full editorial control of the review, which is written in his own words based on his experience of visiting Catalonia in the early summer of 2017 for Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia. All opinions are the author’s own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of local attractions, from the coast to the mountains of the Pyrenees. Catalonia's history stretches back thousands of years, the evidence still visible in Neolithic dolmens, cave paintings and rock-carvings across the region. Since then, castles and cathedrals, monasteries and medieval villages have risen and fallen, not to mention modernist masterpieces by the likes of Antoni Gaudí and Cèsar Martinell. So there’s an array of cultural gems to admire in the form of fine Romanesque churches, Roman and Greek ruins and contemporary galleries and museums. But it’s the landscape that’s the real star in Catalonia. The Costas will be familiar, their shores lined with sandy beaches lapped by the temptingly turquoise Mediterranean – but you’ll also find national and natural parks of spectacular beauty and variety. There’s the volcanic cones and lava flows of La Garrotxa, the limestone cliffs of Montsant, the Pyrenean lakes of Aigüestortes, and the shimmering wetlands of the Ebro Delta, to name just a few. All are best appreciated on foot, by bike or with paddle in hand. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Catalonia La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Girona Pyrenees This unique region in far north-eastern Catalunya was created by dramatic volcanic ructions, and some 40 cones and more than 20 lava flows are still evident in the natural park. Thanks to the fertile volcanic soil and climate it’s a natural wonderland, much forested and scattered with historic villages. turismegarrotxa.com Serra de Montsant and Siurana Natural Park, Costa Daurada The limestone cliffs of the Montsant loom from the plains like the rock walls of an mighty ancient fortress; no surprise that medieval hermits chose this forbidding place to live in isolation, lending it the name ‘Holy Mountain’ (Montsant). turismepriorat.org Parc Natural de Sant Llorenç de Munt i l'Obac, Paisatges Barcelona Linking two eponymous mountain ranges some 30km north-west of Barcelona is this enticing natural park, its slopes patched with holm oak and Aleppo pine forest, and studded with historic gems – notably the 10th-century Benedictine monastery of Sant Llorenç del Munt on the summit of La Mola, at 1,104m the park’s highest peak. parcs.diba.cat/web/SantLlorenc Montseny Natural Park, Costa Barcelona & Costa Brava This UNESCO Biosphere Reserve between Barcelona and Girona is a delightfully varied mountainous landscape of woods and dappled streams, high summits and old farmsteads. turisme-montseny.com Sitges Biosphere Destination, Costa Barcelona This attractive coastal town is best known for its lively atmosphere and year-round fine weather – protected by the Garraf mountains, its microclimate ensures mild winters and warm summers, making it a popular beach resort. A packed calendar includes film, music, theatre and traditional cultural festivals, concerts, sports events and the boisterous Carnival. It’s also a family-friendly Biosphere Destination, where activities include cycling in nearby Garraf Natural Park, soaking up the sun on the 4km-long beach or simply strolling the seafront promenade and admiring the fin-de-siècle colonial ‘Indiano’ mansions. biospheretourism.com Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, Lleida Pyrenees Catalunya has the one national park – and it’s a beauty. Look at a map of the far north of Catalunya and you’ll see a verdant carpet speckled with blue – a craggy region clad with ancient fir and black pine forests, and studded with hundreds of jewel-like mountain lakes. lleidatur.com Montsec Starlight Reserve and Astronomical Park, Lands of Lleida The vertiginous Montsec Massif is, unsurprisingly, sparsely populated, and with low light pollution and clear air it’s a perfect spot for stargazing – it’s now designated a UNESCO Starlight Reserve. parcastronomic.cat Val d’Aran Biosphere Destination, Val d’Aran The spectacular Pyrenean landscapes, dominated by mountains, forests, lakes and the Garona River are the main scenic attractions of this long-isolated highland valley, and key reasons why it became the first mountain tourist destination to receive UNESCO Biosphere Responsible Tourism Certification. biospheretourism.com Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau, Barcelona After eight decades as a hospital, the extraordinary modernist edifice of Sant Pau, built in the early 20th century by famed architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner in Barcelona’s l'Eixample district, was retired in 2009. Today, it’s been reborn as a multi-purpose complex that’s a treat to explore. santpaubarcelona.org Romanesque churches of the Boí Valley, Lleida Pyrenees The eight Romanesque churches and hermitage retreat of the Boí Valley are collectively a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They were built during the 11th and 12th Century, based on an architectural style imported from northern Italy of iconic slim bell-towers and rounded arcading and pilaster strips. centreromanic.com Hort de la Sínia – Costa Daurada Part organic allotment cooperative and part eco health retreat, Hort de la Sínia is a place to work the land and relax among nature in the great outdoors. hortdelasinia.com For information on characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and nearby low-impact activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia