As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the first place she visited: Erikson Cottage In a nutshell: A tranquil glass cabin in south Västergötland. The owners run their own onsite bakery and offer fabulous breakfasts (at your cabin or at the farm bakery) and candlelit dinners at the farm bakery Rooms: 2 glass cabins, one in the woods the other by a lake Price: 2-night package from 7,200 Swedish Krona for two people, includes two breakfast and dinner plus use of kayak and SUP. Meals: Two Breakfasts (either at the Farm Bakery or in by basket delivered to your Glass Cabin) and Two Dinners Open: 1 May-15 October Carbon count: One night at Erikson Cottage creates around 0.3kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-equivalent per person) Erikson Eco Cottage, showing the glass houses, sauna, meals (delivered by electric bike), night sky and the interior of the beautiful traditional cottage. Photos: Richard Hammond Sarah's insight: Elisabeth Erikson worked the dough for tomorrow’s cinnamon buns as we chatted in her farmhouse bakery; soothing music played, candles flickered. “Before people come to stay here, they ask: what activities can we do?,” she told me, kneading away. “But then they arrive. And do nothing. They read, lie in bed, read some more, drink coffee.” I took a slurp myself – a rich brew served in the perfect mug, handmade by a local ceramicist. “They just enjoy slowing down.” I’d only been at Erikson Cottage for a few hours and could already feel the place dialling down my speedometer. At this trio of glasshouses in the calming forests of Västergötland, it would seem rude to rush. My home for the night was Skogen, a glass cabin hidden in a glade of pine, fir, blueberry bushes, mushrooms and, unquestionably, magic. Completely off-grid, with separate toilet and kitchen huts, and no electricity, the site rests gently yet luxuriously on this fourth-generation farm. There was a shower I could use near the (solar-powered) main buildings, but the following morning I opted to use Lake Lagmanshagasjön instead. From the jetty I slipped into its brilliantly brisk water, startling a heron. Back at my private enclave, breakfast was delivered by electric van: a full basket, including local Lillebacke cheese, blueberry marmalade, sliced apples and plums, and Elisabeth’s sourdough rolls, baked using organic heritage grains. I ate well and considered what to do next: borrow a kayak or SUP? Forage for chanterelles? Take a stroll through the woods? Or just curl up back in bed with my book…? How to get to Erikson cottage By train: Less than two hours from Gothenburg – the "Coast to Coast" train (which runs from Gothenburg to Kalmar/Karlskrona) stops at Limmared and Hestra where you can be picked up by electric car (by arrangement with the owners) - it's about 20 minutes from the railway station to Erikson Cottage. By electric car: it's about 120 km (just over an hour and a half) from Gothenburg. There's a solar energy/green electric charge point on site. More information: Book a stay at Erikson Cottage: eriksoncottage.com

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the third place she visited: Lugnåsberget Ekohotell In a nutshell: A simple, homely, wholesome family-owned eco hotel on a small holding (hens in the garden and sheep in the field) that provides mostly home-made food from the owner's small holding Rooms: Single, twin and family rooms (six rooms in the annex plus an apartment in an old farmhouse) Price: 2-night package from 1,975 Swedish Krona for two people, includes two breakfasts and dinner plus use of the sauna and maps of the local area Meals: Organic breakfast (don't miss the home-baked bread with homemade jams and conserve), lunch basket, dinner basket with bean salad and smoked lamb/feta cheese. Food is either from the owner's farm or is from nearby suppliers and is organic and fairtrade. Open: March–June and September–October. Carbon count: One night at Lugnåsberget Ekohotell creates around 0.2kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-equivalent per person per night) Our stay at Lugnåsberget Ekohotell, including staying in the main house, relaxing in the barrel-top sauna, and visiting the fascinating Lugnåsberget millstone mines. Photos: Richard Hammond Sarah Baxter's insight: When Pia Åkesson and Jesper Persson first met, both clutching copies of John Seymour’s seminal Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency, they knew they were made for each other. Now, decades on, they run Lugnåsberget Ekohotell, a simple guesthouse within the Vänerskärgården & Kinnekulle UNESCO Biosphere Reserve that has the lightest of carbon footprints. Indeed, a wall meter displays how much energy the ecohotel generates via its solar panels – which is far more than it uses. For this couple, sustainability isn’t a buzzword, it’s a way of life. “We long dreamed of having a hostel – we like to meet people, and wanted to show there are different ways of living,” Jesper told me as we sat in the garden, eating homebaked cinnamon buns. This seemed appropriate. The original 19th-century farm is called Sofielund, after one of three sisters who once lived here, baking kanelbullar for the workers of Lugnåsberget’s millstone mines; one of those mines, Minnesfjället, is now an excellent museum. There are six rooms in the Ekohotell’s red-timber annex plus an apartment in the old yellow farmhouse. I stayed in the latter; my homey room had a balcony overlooking the grazing sheep. Truly minimal food miles: dinner that evening included smoked lamb from Pia and Jesper’s flock, as well as fruit and veg from their smallholding and local producers. The Ekohotell is a great base. You can pick up hiking and cycling trails from the doorstep, swim and canoe at Lake Vristulven, explore the Biosphere; there’s a train station just 4km away. But be sure to do as I did and return to hit the west-facing wood-fired sauna for the hottest sunset views. Things to do Hiking: The Biosphere Trail passes right outside the hotel - it's a wonderful 140km hiking trail that hugs the southern shore of Lake Vänern, passing through through beautiful, varied landscapes with viewpoints, islands, town centres, and forests, between Läckö and Mariestad. In just five miles, Sarah walked the flanks of Mount Kinnekulle, explored two nature reserves, browsed the gardens, gallery and flea market of Hellekis Manor, "and ate the best cinnamon bun I’ve ever tasted on a rock ledge overlooking Vänern’s endless waters". Guided tour of Qvarnstensgruvan museum: There are guided tours of the fabulous Millstone Quarry and museum at Qvarnstensgruvan. For more about this, read Sarah's article West Sweden, the humble hero Cycling: Stage 4 of the Vänerleden cycle trail (the bit between Mariestad and Lidköping) passes 7km from the hotel Canoeing: Take the hotel's canoes down to the nearby Lake Vristulven (they can be driven down there by electric car and trailer) Wild Swimming: There's a lovely natural swimming area in Lake Vristulven, 5 km from the hotel. Sauna: The hotel has it's own onsite sauna. How to get to Lugnåsberget Eco Hotel By train: About 2.5 hours by train from Gothenburg, 3.5 hours from Stockholm. Get off at Lugnås station, from where you can either walk to the eco-hotel (around 3 km) or arrange to be picked up by the owner's electric car. By electric car: There are three EV chargers on site from the hotel's own solar array. On foot: Stages 7 and 8 of the Biosphere Trail pass right outside the house. By Bike: Stage 4 of the Vänerleden Trail between Mariestad and Lidköping can be accessed around 7 km from Ekohotellet. More information: Book at stay at the Lugnåsberget Eco Hotel: www.lugnasberget.se

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the second place she visited: Inforest In a nutshell: An off-grid cabin (they call it a 'tiny house') in the forests just outside Hjo on Lake Vättern. Rooms: 1 double bed plus mezzanie double. Price: 2-night package from 7,200 Swedish Krona for two people, includes bedding, towels, wood and final cleaning plus transport to and from Hjo bus station. Meals: Self-catering Open: April to October Carbon count: One night at Inforest creates around 0.9kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-eq per person) Our stay at Inforest, cooking on the outdoor fire, cycling to the lake, and star-gazing at night Photos: Richard Hammond Sarah's insight: Laying back on the bench by the side of the cabin, I watched the stars multiply. The more I stared, the more appeared, pin-pricking the inky sky above the silhouetted tree tops. The fire pit was still glowing; the remnants of dinner – toasted bread and buttered chanterelles – needed clearing but they’d have to wait. I was transfixed by the late-night show. It was 30 years ago that Jesper Uvesten’s father bought this peaceful patch of forest, just outside the historic trästaden (wooden town) of Hjo on Lake Vättern. In 2020 he opened his first of four secluded, self-sufficient tiny houses here. Handmade from natural materials by a local company, each cosy, off-grid cabin has a Scandinavian-minimalist design, well-kitted kitchen and a bathroom with a separating toilet and shower. But even better they have batteries that are charged via solar panels and water tanks with meters, so you can monitor your use. Both power and water should last two days, if used mindfully – something Jesper is keen to encourage. A stay at Inforest is about being immersed in this pretty pocket of nature but also about considering your impact: how much energy you consume, how much you really need. “For example, there’s plenty of hot water for a shower,” Jesper explained, “just not for a teenager-type 30-minute shower!” During my restful stay, I revelled in seeing how little I could consume. I charged my phone by day, when the sun was bright; cooked on the fire outside; kept the lights off, to better see the stars. And I left with my own batteries fully recharged. How to get to Inforest By train: about two hours from Gothenburg (three hours from Stockholm): take the train to Skövde and then the bus to Hjo bus station, where you will be picked up by electric car and taken to Inforest. More information: Book a stay at Inforest: inforest.se

As part of our guide to Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter discovers the green heart of West Sweden. As we wandered past the secondhand stores on Magasinsgatan – perfectly curated dens of vintage vinyl, cool dresses and worn-leather jackets – guide Ricky thought through my question. “Has Gothenburg been proactive in pursuing sustainability – or was it just doing those things anyway?” he mused. “I think it’s just a way of life here.” Gothenburg has been ranked ‘world’s most sustainable destination’ six times in a row according to the Global Destination Sustainability Index. But most locals don’t go on about their city’s excellent public transport (95% of which runs on renewable energy) or share-bike scheme; about the restaurants serving organic food or the fact that 92% of the hotels are environmentally certified – including grand Hotel Eggers, which has its own wind turbine. They go to Liseberg for fun, not because it’s the first amusement park in the world to receive sustainability certification. The city is clearly doing a lot right. Just in a very Gothenburgian way. “It’s a low-key place,” Ricky explained. “We don’t blow our own trumpet.” The stylish Hotel Eggers is opposite Gothenburg's main railway station. Photos: Richard Hammond Certainly, Gothenburg makes a great green mini-break. But it’s also the gateway to great green breaks in wider West Sweden. To the east and north of the city lies an easily accessible hinterland of lakes, more lakes, globally important mountains, meditative forest, moose, arable land, ancient history and characterful, climate-smart places to stay. It’s also a region that’s Stepping up Sustainability, a new initiative working on limiting tourism’s environmental impact, driving visits to wider areas and in different seasons, and ensuring the hospitality industry is good for both residents and visitors. I’d come to explore. First, I found Platåbergens, 3,690 sq km of table mountains and important rock on the south shores of Lake Vänern that was designated Sweden’s first UNESCO Global Geopark in 2022. Reachable by train, Platåbergens a fine place for hiking, biking, canoeing, wildlife-spotting – and also, I discovered, time travel. “Look slowly from ground to ceiling,” instructed Pia Åkesson, chair of the Minnesfjället mine museum, as she swung her torch around the cavern’s dark belly, from the gneiss bedrock to the sandstone above our heads. “That’s 1,000 million years in one go.” Not only that, Pia added, “you have the first life on earth here.” She focused her torch on the roof, revealing imprints of worms, jellyfish, feathery trilobites – animals that lived 540 million years ago. The mine itself dates from the 19th century; the men who worked it for its first-class millstones called these fossils moons and stars. “They didn’t know what they were,” Pia said, “but they sold them to geologists who did.” Pia is also co-owner of Lugnåsberget Ekohotell, a climate-smart guesthouse nearby, which proved to be an excellent base. As well as being only 4km from the nearest train station (from which she can pick you up), the 140km-long Biosphere Trail runs right past the Ekohotell’s door. I used the train to hike a section of the trail, between the little request-stop stations of Råbäck and Hällekis. In just five miles I walked the flanks of Mount Kinnekulle, explored two nature reserves, browsed the gardens, gallery and flea market of Hellekis Manor, and ate the best cinnamon bun I’ve ever tasted on a rock ledge overlooking Vänern’s endless waters. I used the train to hike a section of the trail, between the little request-stop stations of Råbäck and Hällekis, with local guide Amanda Hessle. In just five miles we walked the flanks of Mount Kinnekulle, explored two nature reserves and browsed the gardens, gallery and flea market of Hellekis Manor. Amanda brought along some buns from the bakery in nearby Blomberg, which we ate on a rock ledge overlooking Vänern's endless waters. Flavoured with vanilla and cardamom, they were some of the best I've ever tasted. The Biosphere Trail begins in the town of Mariestad. It ends at Läckö Slott. People have lived at this strategic site on the tip of Kållandsö island for at least 2,000 years – there’s rock art to prove it. But what stands today is a baroque castle, built by Count Magnus Gabriel De la Gardie in the 17th century – and little changed since. What has changed is Läckö’s walled garden. British horticulturalist Simon Irvine took it on 30-odd years ago, and set about transforming what was then a sterile patch of lawn and roses into an ecologically cultivated kitchen garden that is now both beautiful and abundant. After admiring its walnut trees, bulbous tomatoes and gargantuan kale, I took a seat at nearby Hvita Hjorten, the award-winning restaurant it feeds. “Some things are 20 minutes from picking to serving,” said chef Katrin Ljungblom as she placed a dish in front of me: pike-perch from the lake, courgettes, leek and sage from the garden, wild garlic powder, made from leaves picked on Kinnekulle. “Produce comes into the kitchen when it’s ready; you have to take care of it, respect it. It’s a creative way to work.” Two of the hermitages at Swedish Country Living. Photos: Richard Hammond Heading clockwise from Läckö, continuing around Lake Vänern, you eventually end up in Dalsland, a province with a tiny population but a huge amount of water. Indeed, it’s a quarter covered by lakes, with much of the rest cloaked in dense, uninhabited forest. Trains do penetrate here too, though. It takes just over an hour to ride from Gothenburg to Mellerud, where David and Marie Naraine can collect you and whisk you to their eco-friendly homestead, Swedish Country Living. Warning: once you’ve arrived, it’s hard to leave. The three, off-grid tiny houses here are the perfect marriage of sustainable materials, eco-design and Scandi-cool. Snuggled in my wood-and-slate hermitage (pictured above, centre and right), woodburner roaring, candles twinkling, I didn’t really want to be anywhere else. However, the next day, after an invigorating lake dip and a breakfast of homebaked bread, cheese and eggs from the couple’s chickens, I decided to wander a little further afield. The 100km Pilgrimsleden in Dalsland traces part of the route medieval pilgrims once used to reach the tomb of St Olaf in Nidaros (now Trondheim). And it passes close to Swedish Country Living. Unable to resist a tramp in historical footprints, I caught a lift to the Svankila Nature Reserve and followed the pilgrim path from there. The sun shone through the trees, shimmered on the lake and kissed the clapperboard summerhouses as I headed north on the easy track, my only company a low-flying buzzard. Soon I reached the village of Upperud, a one-time industrial hub and key centre during the construction of the Dalsland Canal. It was quiet here, too; I was the only visitor at the eco-designed Art Museum, and happily browsed the lyrical landscape paintings of local-born Otto Hesselbom. There was also a wonderful collection of traditional Dalsland crafts and furniture, including painted cabinets and wooden figures. “The area was really poor 200 years ago,” the lady at the front desk told me. “The people here didn’t have much but they used what they had, and made it beautiful. A humble, quiet beauty.” Which seemed to sum up West Sweden. A place of glorious landscapes where conserving, reusing, creating beauty and striving for sustainability is, for many, just a way of life. ==== Disclosure: Sarah Baxter was a guest of the West Sweden Tourist Board. She has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting West Sweden in September 2023. All opinions are the author’s own. More information: To book a holiday in West Sweden with a UK tour operator, see: sustainablejourneys.co.uk/journeys/low-carbon-grand-tour-of-west-sweden-by-ev More information on West Sweden: westsweden.com

As part of our guide to Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter tries out the options for a low carbon holiday The glasshouse had curtains. But I didn’t draw them. Out here, in the lake-edge forest, there was no one to peer in except the birds, perhaps a beaver. So, exposed to the alarm clock of Mother Nature, I woke at first light, watched the day begin to form. Eventually I left my bed’s warm hug, flung open the doors, walked a few steps, over smooth rock and pine needles, and plunged into the lake’s chilled stillness. Electricity? Hot shower? Who needs them? It was the final day of my trip to West Sweden and I was getting used to such idyllic simplicity. I’d come to try out the region’s new Climate Smart Holidays, a new strand in West Sweden’s Stepping up Sustainability initiative. These are packages with the lowest possible carbon emissions, staying at small, family-run businesses, in unique accommodation, with local-sourced food, accessible by public transport (with pick-ups from nearby stations in electric cars, if required). At Dalslands Aktiviteter that meant low-impact kayaking down the Stenebyälven River, eating local-caught wild game, lounging in a wood-fired hot-tub and sleeping in the aforementioned glass cabin, totally off-grid, completely out of this world. The fun had begun from my front door, having reached Sweden on a train odyssey via London, Brussels, Cologne, Hamburg (overnighting in Germany’s first cabin hotel), Copenhagen and finally Gothenburg. After an opulent sleep in grand Hotel Eggers, right by Gothenburg’s main station, it was a four-minute walk to pick up a Polestar, an electric car with a range of 400km, perfect for my eco adventure. Soon, the city faded into tree-flanked highway, the roads squeezing progressively narrower and narrower as I drove east into the forests of Västergötland, to Erikson Cottage. This farm near the shores of Lagmanshagasjön Lake has been in the same family since 1850; now sisters Elisabeth and Katarina run it as a bakery, pizza-making workshop and place for people to relax and de-stress in their three gorgeous glass cabins. “There’s no electricity,” Elisabeth explained as she showed me to my woodland dell, home to a glasshouse, and separate kitchen and toilet huts. “They can all be lifted off and taken away – you’d see no trace. We also have solar panels, our own well and septic tank, and a charging point for cars.” They also have something special, a mood conjured from the exhalation of the trees, the lap of the lake, the smell of fresh-baked bread, the soft music and candlelight, the twittering birds and dashing deer. Ingredients, when mixed, that create something supremely comforting and delicious. I could have stayed, sunk into Erikson Cottage, for days. But I had a date further north, near Hjo, where Jesper Uvesten has hidden a handful of off-grid cabins around his family forest. I was staying in Esther (named after Jesper’s oldest daughter), a cosy, self-catering bolthole for up to four with a large fire pit outside and a hare living underneath. Esther is also supremely smart: her solar panels power-up batteries that can last two days, even when the sun’s not shining; the waste from her toilet is turned to compost; her big water tank and meter mean you can happily shower, while keeping an eye on your usage. She was a charming, secluded, peaceful place to stay. I cooked up a feast on the campfire, listened to the snap-crackle of the woods – perhaps wild boar, snuffling for acorns? – and cycled to nearby Lingonudden (Lingonberry Head) to watch the day’s last rays reflected in the little pond. From Inforest it was only an hour’s drive to Lugnåsberget, one of the smallest mountains in Västergötland but – as I soon discovered from Pia Åkesson and Jesper Persson – one of the most fascinating. Determined to live a more sustainable life, the couple bought an old farm here 13 years ago; after two years of renovations, involving recycled materials, secondhand furniture, grazing goats and sheep, and plenty of hard work, they opened it as Lugnåsberget Ekohotell. Rooms are simple and comfortable, food is local-sourced and homemade, power comes from solar panels, heat from the biomass boiler. Of the five climate-smart properties, it’s the smartest: one night here creates around 0.2kg CO2-equivalent per person (the average hotel in Sweden creates around 6.8kg CO2-eq). I plugged in my car, fortified myself with one of Pia’s cinnamon buns and set off to explore. The mountain, though small, is special. Cistercian monks, who came here in the 12th century, discovered its top layer of bedrock was especially well-suited for making millstones. For 800 years this industry was vital to the people here; more than 600 quarries and 50 mines were cut into the slopes. I hiked the 6km Stenhuggarstigen (Stonecutter’s Trail), which begins near the ecohotel, and found it littered with reminders. Abandoned millstones lay higgle-piggle among the oak and birch trees, wigged with moss; the ruins of a smithy sat by an overgrown quarry; old workers’ cottages were subsumed by the forest. Lugnåsberget rises just below Lake Vänern and, next, I steered around the southernmost tip of Sweden’s largest lake, to enter the province of Dalsland. After a smooth two-hour drive, I arrived at Swedish Country Living. This rural retreat isn’t far off the main road, or from the nearest train station. But it feels a million miles away. There are three individually designed tiny houses here, well-spaced between the native trees, pond and pasture surrounding David and Marie Naraine’s own home. Aesthetically, the hermitages are a delight. The Slate House, in which I stayed (picture bottom centre and right), looked snatched from a fairytale. It was handmade from wood felled on site, and clad in gingerbread-like tiles; inside were candle lanterns, sheepskins from the farm, antique kilims. The hermitates at Swedish Country Living. Photos: Richard Hammond But even more impressive was the couple’s eco-ethos, from their use of recycled building materials to the shower block’s circular water system to their regenerative farming techniques. “We learnt the skills as we went along,” David told me in the orangery (also built from secondhand glass and brick); it’s here the former chef serves delicious dinners. Tonight: slow-cooked lamb, reared and butchered on site, and homegrown potatoes, lemon, parsley and garlic. “We wanted to keep it small scale,” he added, “so you feel part of the family when you’re here.” I felt it. Because, like all the other climate-smart places, David and Marie have created something sustainable without sacrificing the splendour, the cosiness or the joy of being in nature one bit. ==== Disclosure: Sarah Baxter was a guest of the West Sweden Tourist Board. She has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting West Sweden in September 2023. All opinions are the author’s own. More information: To book a holiday in West Sweden with a UK tour operator, see: sustainablejourneys.co.uk/journeys/low-carbon-grand-tour-of-west-sweden-by-ev More information on West Sweden: westsweden.com

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the fourth place she visited: Swedish Country Living The hermitages at Swedish Country Living: left: A-frame Hermitage. right: Slate-house Hermitage Photos: Richard Hammond In a nutshell: Three stylish but cosy, off-grid cottages, surrounded by forest and next to a huge lake where you can paddle out to an island or just kick-back and enjoy an outdoor heated bath by the tall grass. The owners - former restaurants owners – provide everything from meat from their grazing sheep to home grown veg and serve up a fabulous dining experience in a beautiful Orangery. Rooms: Three Hermitage Cottages in woodland, all sleep two: the orginal Hermitage is a beautiful tiny house; the A-Frame Hermitage has a stylish Scandinavian interior with the bed up a ladder in the loft; the Slate House Hermitage is a gingerbread house covered with over 4,000 slate tiles - looks out over a pond. Price: 2-night package from 5,450 Swedish Krona per person, minimum two people, includes two breakfast, one packed lunch, and two dinners plus use of canoe or kayak with life jacket Meals: Breakfasts in your room or in the Orangery Open: April to September Carbon count: One night at Swedish Country Living creates around 0.4kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-eq) Our stay at Swedish Country Living, including staying in the hermitages, kayaking on the lake, relaxing in an outdoor hot bath overlooking the lake, and cooking our own pizza in the evening. All photos: Richard Hammond, except final food photo: Badass. Sarah Baxter's insight: Looking at the Slate House, watching smoke curl from its chimney up into the surrounding trees, I thought: this could be centuries old. Its thick doors were timeworn, its roof traditionally tarred, its windows antique, its walls clad in grey slate tiles, no two quite the same. And yet, it was hand-built in 2021. A mini-monument to recycling at its most chic. The Slate House is one of three unique cabins at Swedish Country Living, the brainchild of David and Marie Naraine (pictured below). They used to work in restaurants and designer fashion. Now, they’ve turned the land around their 1850s Dalsland summerhouse into a idyllic rural retreat. It’s an exemplar of how to live sustainably and in style. The whole site is circular. The showers are fed by lake water, which is then filtered via the greenhouse and pumped back into the lake. The waste from the separating toilets composts the land. Sheep graze on rotation, promoting biodiversity; lambs are butchered on site and served, deliciously, in the orangery by the veg patch – not food miles but metres. The cabins have no electricity, running water or en suites (though each has access to a private shower room). What they do have is character in spades. The couple’s architect son, Jonathan, designed them, starting not with floor plans but with the salvaged windows, bricks and doors his parents had accrued. “It was fun, doing it that way,” he said as we canoed on the lake one dazzling afternoon. “This way of designing, based on what you have, is the way of the future, and the challenge we face with climate change.” How to get to Swedish Country Living By train: It's just over an hour from Gothenburg (five hours from Stockholm) – the train stops at Mellerud station, where you can organise with the owners to book transfer to Swedish Country Living (it's about 10km) by electric car. By electric car: It's about 140km (just under 2 hours) from Gothenburg. There’s a 22kW solar EV charge point on site. More information: Book a stay at Swedish Country Living: swedishcountryliving.com

Living up to its name as the ‘Garden of England’, Kent has an abundance of beautiful countryside, natural habitats and local produce to explore. Offering ways to conserve, protect and celebrate this bountiful county, Katy Mason, Girl About Kent, shares five rewarding activities to make the most of your next staycation JOIN A COMMUNITY BEACH CLEAN IN MARGATE ‘Rise Up. Clean Up’ is a community-driven movement that hosts regular beach cleans in the seaside town of Margate. With sessions on weekends and evenings, join a group to help clear up any rubbish left behind on the beach and bask in the glow of joining this sociable and rewarding activity. Litter pickers and bin bags are provided; visit the website for upcoming dates. riseupcleanup.co.uk PADDLE DOWN THE RIVER STOUR WITH CANOE WILD Spend a blissful couple of hours exploring the waterways of Canterbury’s River Stour by kayak, canoe or paddle board with Canoe Wild. Based just 2.5 miles outside of Canterbury, Canoe Wild run both guided tours and private hire of their water equipment throughout the year from their base in Fordwich – England’s smallest town. It’s a tranquil way to see some of Kent’s natural habitats. canoewild.co.uk GO FORAGING WITH FORTH & FORAGE Discover some of Kent’s spectacular array of wild foods on one of Forth & Forage’s friendly foraging walking tours through the coast, woodlands and towns of Herne Bay, Whitstable and Canterbury. A brilliant way of engaging with nature, on one of Amy’s fabulous tours you’ll learn how to identify some of the hidden gems in our environment, from the edible flowers and healing herbs, to wild spices and seasonal fruits. forthandforage.co.uk ESCAPE INTO THE FOREST AT BEDGEBURY PINETUM Set in the heart of the High Weald’s AONB, Bedgebury Pinetum is home to a worldleading collection of conifers and over 12,000 specimen trees. Spanning 350 acres, this magnificent Forestry England site boasts spectacular views, serene trails and natural play areas for youngsters. If you’re keen to really immerse yourself in forest life, there is the fabulous, family-run Stay At Forest Edge glamping site nearby. forestryengland.uk/bedgebury FOLLOW A NATURE TRAIL AT ROMNEY MARSH Boasting a diverse range of wildlife, nature trails and an award-winning visitor centre (thanks to its host of sustainable features), Romney Marsh Nature Reserve is a prime spot for a day out on the Kent coast. Managed by the Kent Wildlife Trust, conservation is at the heart of the reserve and it’s a designated Site of Scientific Interest. Spend some time here and you’ll come away with a deeper understanding of the region’s rich history and diverse habitats. kentwildlifetrust.org.uk == Katy Mason on instagram @girl.aboutkent

Rhiannon Batten reports on a new micro-dining experience that celebrates Somerset's local larder It’s surely the closest Somerset gets to the North Pole. Not because we happen to visit on a night when the temperature has dipped but because the barn in which Jules and Steve Horrell and their children, Harvey and Lauren, are scurrying around like cheerful elves is hung with baskets, lit by candles, warmed by a wood-burner and festooned with seasonal foliage. The magical former cow byre may be the setting for Horrell & Horrell, the family’s new micro-dining experience at their home in Sparkford, but if Santa was ever looking for a stylish new grotto it would be a shoo-in. Jules and Steve, who previously worked together at Bruton’s Roth Bar & Grill, have honed their cooking and hosting skills over many years and their experience shows. Seating just 30 diners at one long table, the approach may be rustic, with much of the menu cooked over fire, but it’s done with real polish. A snapshot of Somerset’s farm-to-fork food scene in three courses, we graze our way through plates of homegrown beetroot with buffalo mozzarella and sesame-sprinkled Persian bread, slowcooked beef brisket with celeriac gratin and cavolo nero, and flaky quince and apple turnovers. Almost all of the ingredients have been grown on site, or sourced from small-scale local producers. Delicious and decadent in equal measure, it feels the right way to eat in Somerset, packed as it is with regenerative farms, cider orchards and cheesemakers. Shifting the focus from more formal dining experiences to those that are closer to the farming end of the spectrum creates culinary alchemy in this rural county, where growers and diners are so closely connected. This ethos reaches its pinnacle in July, when the Somerset Food Trail champions the county’s farmers and producers. Yet micro-dining operators like Horrell & Horrell, Pennard Hill Farm near Glastonbury (which has launched a series of winter feasts made with wild, foraged or sustainably farmed local ingredients), Margot in Bruton and Pomona Supperclub in Frome are now making this more muddy-booted style of eating available year-round. == Follow Rhiannon Batten on Instagram @rhiannonbatten

Few winter holidays can beat the exhilaration of skiing through fresh powdered snow in the clean mountain air, surrounded by spectacular mountain views, followed by feasting on a fondue with friends in a cosy, fireside chalet at the end of a muscle-aching day. But historically, the infrastructure that’s been put in place to cater for the downhill winter sports industry has put a great strain on mountain ecosystems, including the levelling of wildlife-friendly pine forests in order to make way for long, gently sloping pistes, while local water supplies have been drained to provide billions of gallons of water for artificial snowmaking machines at purpose-built resorts. In recent years, many ski areas have sought to lessen their environmental impact, using renewable energy to operate chairlifts and power accommodation, and improving their public transport network to reduce the need for cars. But you can do your bit too, by travelling to resorts by train to reduce your holiday’s carbon emissions and by choosing alternative low-impact winter activities where your footprint on the mountains will be only snow deep. Next time you’re on the snow, why not try one of these wintersports instead? They are exhilarating yet peaceful and offer an escape into the wild. Snowshoeing The gentlest way to enjoy the powder and pine trees is to go snowshoeing. Wonderfully straightforward, it means attaching specialised outer footwear (‘snowshoes’) to your shoes or boots that distribute your weight over a larger area to prevent your feet from sinking into the snow. Snowshoes are in the shape of tennis rackets, hence why the French call them raquettes. Think of it as simply a winter walk made easier. Kitting up with just the usual ski clothing, gloves and poles is all you need to head into the wintry landscape, where you’re far more likely to see mountain wildlife and appreciate the beauty of the mountain environment than you would hurtling down a manicured slope on skis. The Swiss Alps and the Italian Dolomites are popular locations for snowshoeing (or snow trekking), though one of the best places is the Pyrenees. Spanning 270 miles (435km) across the south-west of France, northern Spain and Andorra, the region lacks the scale and crowds of the Alps but it’s no less rewarding. Cross-country skiing Using skis that are thinner, lighter and longer than downhill skis, with a free-heel binding system that you use with lightweight boots, crosscountry skiing typically takes place on prepared tracks on the valley floor, often alongside mountain rivers and through pine forests. The skis have scales on the underside to help stop you slipping backwards so that you can push and glide quickly and smoothly across the snow. The technique involves sliding one foot directly forwards followed by the other foot, using poles alternately. It’s a great way to travel quickly across long distances on the flat. As with all forms of skiing, while fitness is important, balance and co-ordination are crucial if you’re to enjoy this strenuous form of exercise. Many popular ski resorts have groomed pistes for cross-country skiers, so it is widely available across the Alps (particularly in Switzerland and the Dolomites), but there are also excellent tracks in other areas, such as Poland and Slovakia. In Norway, Finland and Sweden (including Västergötland, pictured above) cross-country skiing is a national sport. Ski Touring At first glance, ski touring can seem odd. It involves attaching synthetic ‘skins’ to the underside of your skis to give you traction to walk up a snowy slope. Then, once you’ve gained some height, you detach and pack away the skins and start your descent, enjoying the exhilaration of skiing down deserted untracked snow. To any seasoned downhill skier, it can be baffling as to why you wouldn’t simply take a lift up, then venture off piste if you so wished. Yet aficionados of ski touring (known as ski de randonnée in France) say the climb up can often be more enjoyable and rewarding than the ski down. It’s worth noting going off piste can be dangerous and should only be done once you have attained an appropriate level of skill, fitness and familiarity with navigating in the mountains, including the ability to read weather systems and the variable snow conditions. It’s highly recommended to go with a qualified mountain guide. There are many organisations that offer courses in ski touring where you’ll learn how to skin and kick-turn efficiently, how to avoid avalanche terrain, and use essential safety equipment. Once you’re proficient in ski touring, it opens up a whole new dimension to skiing where you can stay overnight in mountain huts and continue touring day after day in the glorious wild hinterland. In Scotland, there are lots of ski touring routes that traverse many of the Munros (mountains over 3,000ft/914m high), such as the 6¼-mile (10km) traverse of the Pass of Drumochter, the main mountain route between the northern and southern central Scottish Highlands, and the 10-mile (16km) traverse of Ben Macdui in the Cairngorms, where you can take the longer tour of the five 4,000ft (1,219m) peaks that takes in Cairn Gorm, Ben Macdui, Angel’s Peak, Cairn Toul and Braeriach. In Europe, one of the most popular ski touring routes is the Haute Route – a seven-day 75-mile (120km) tour traversing sections of two of the highest Alpine ranges between Zermatt and Chamonix. But there are many other equally rewarding ski tours in Europe, including the Silvretta Traverse in the Austrian Alps, south of the ski resort of St Anton, which is a great tour for those just starting out as the summits are lower than in the West Alps; the Bernese Oberland Traverse in central Switzerland, with superb views of the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger; the Dolomites Circuit, which passes through remote valleys, dominated by the iconic towering limestone cliffs and pinnacles; and the Gran Paradiso Traverse, which includes a strenuous trek up to the summit of the Paradiso itself (13,323ft/4,061m), followed by a thrilling descent of over 6,500ft (2,000m). ====== This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller, published by Pavilion (£18.99), which also appeared in the December 2023/January 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

As part of our series of Green Traveller's Guides to European cities, here we focus on Cologne, one of Germany's oldest cities. Sheltering on the banks of the Rhine, Cologne was founded by the Romans in 38 BC. A vast Gothic cathedral, the city’s best-known landmark and most visited site in the country, presides over an architectural patchwork of Roman towers, medieval churches and post-war office blocks. Around the cathedral is the Altstadt, or Old Town, where hops-loving visitors indulge in Kölsch, the distinctive local brew. With over one million inhabitants, and a lively student population, Cologne is a vibrant metropolis: The Cologne Opera, Cologne Philharmonic Orchestra and numerous theatres are just some of the cultural events and attractions on offer. Although Cologne is one of the most important hubs in Northern Europe, over a quarter of the city is made up of green spaces so it's not hard to escape the crowds. Cologne is the most populous student town in Germany so there's no shortage of bars and clubs, and with 36 museums, 120 galleries and an enormous shopping district, it's a great place to go for a city break. From London St Pancras it takes just under 5 hours by train (via a simple platform change at Brussels) - see our guide to how to take the train from London to Cologne. Getting around Cologne by public transport Cologne Central train station (Hauptbahnhof) is in the centre of the city, so it’s just a short stroll from the station to the magnificent Dom Cathedral, the city’s main tourist office, and many shops, bars and restaurants. The city also has an excellent public transport network to take you across the city and further afield. Cologne’s handy Welcome Card (€9) enables you to travel on any public transport for up to 24 hours as well as discounts on many of the city’s main attractions, tours and facilities, including the Cologne City Museum, the Chocolate Museum, and the Rent a Bike service. As part of the huge Rhine-Ruhr urban region, Cologne is served by several lines of the local S-bahn rail network, and its Hauptbahnhof is a major hub thereof: here is a map of the S-bahn in Cologne and the surrounding area, the website also offers ticketing information (in German, can be translated). Cologne’s underground (U-bahn) is run by KVB, you can download network maps on their website, as well as ticket information and a journey planner. Trams and buses are operated by VRS, and have uniform tickets and fares; the VRS site offers a journey planner to find routes useful for you. If you’ll be travelling around a lot, it might be worth investing in the KölnCard, which offers unlimited travel and a range of discounts across the city. Places to eat in Cologne - for local, seasonal, organic food There are few better ways to spend a Sunday morning in Cologne – or to seek out the best regional food - than tucking into a civilised brunch. Café Vreiheit, Café Feynsinn, Café Bauturm, Café Stanton and Café Lichtenberg are a co-operative of certified organic coffee shops and restaurants across the city and are all part of the local Slow Food movement. All do great breakfasts and brunches as well as other meals. Or head to Café Sehnsucht, an independent café with pretty tiled walls, mismatched wooden furniture and a commitment to organic produce. It does everything from cakes to evening meals but it’s especially known for its elaborate monthly Sunday brunches. Souppresso Organic Cafe offers a cheap and tasty menu of impressively organic and vegetarian dishes, such as fennel or tomato soup, salad or fresh carrot and ginger juice. Alternatively, visit the restaurant in the evening for a sumptuous 3-course meal (including lamb stew and truffle ravioli) complemented by a range of organic wines. The on-site delicatessen also has organic olive oils and balsamic creams to take away. Brauhaus Fruh am Dom is a cavernous brewery tavern sat right behind Cologne's cathedral. Order a local Fruh Kolsch directly from the barrel and head out to the beer garden to bask in the sunshine. Alternatively, sit down to dinner in the Hofbraustuben restaurant and tuck into a traditional Cologne dish and admire the stunning panoramic views of the enormous gothic cathedral. The basement brewery dates back to 1235 and drinks are poured from wooden barrels on the bar. A few other great places to eat are: Café Vreiheit, Wallstraße 91; Café Feynsinn, Rathenauplatz 7; Café Bauturm, Aachener Straße 24-26; Café Stanton, Schildergasse 57; Café Lichtenberg, Richmodstraße 13; and Café Sehnsucht, Körnerstraße 67. What to see in Cologne Germany's most visited tourist attraction pulls in over 6.5 million visitors a year. Chances are, the cathedral - or Dom - will be the first thing you lay eyes on when you exit the main station. Dating back to 1248, the massive gothic cathedral took some six decades to complete and was once the tallest building in the world. There are some 509 steps to climb to the top of the south tower, but the view of the city at the top is well worth the effort. Its treasury also contains a wealth of artefacts and artworks. Just beside it is the Romano-Germanic Museum, where exhibits include the famous Dionysus mosaic and the world’s largest collection of Roman glassware. There are many other wonderful local attractions in Cologne (many of which you can see from the top of the cathedral!). Here are a few more suggestions: If you’re seeking solace outdoors, the 40-hectare Rheinpark is one of the most easily accessed green spaces in Cologne. It runs alongside the right bank of the Rhine River, can be accessed by both cable car and ferry and is home to all manner of distractions from children’s playgrounds to the sophisticated Claudius thermal spa (claudius-therme.de). But there are plenty of other parks to explore. For plant lovers there’s the Flora and Botanical Garden and the Forstbotanischer Garten, for picnickers and ramblers the 14-hectare Volksgarten park and for families the Finkens Garten nature-based theme park. A blend of ancient and modern, the Kolumba Museum in Cologne was previously known as the Diocesan Museum but changed its name when it moved to its current location, on the site of the former St Columba church, in 2007. Though many visitors come purely to enjoy its collections of religious art and artefacts, others are attracted by the building itself. Designed by Modernist Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, and integrating the remains of several churches into its fabric, it is an extremely peaceful and appropriately contemplative space. Sustainability is also at work here, with rooms heated geothermally. Germans love chocolate... they make nearly 1 million tonnes of the stuff every year. On the banks of the Rhine, Cologne's chocolate museum is a tour through chocolate's 3,000 year history - from the Aztec love of cocoa beans to the most modern brands and recipes and the introduction of fair trade labelling. There's a huge chocolate shop at the exit where you can buy chocolate in all shapes and sizes, including the famous Three Kings Gateau. Admission costs €7.50 per adult, and you can pay extra to take a guided tour (complete with free samples). Right: Not quite Charlie's Chocolate Factory, but oodles of Lindt chocolate tumble out of a fountain at Cologne's Chocolate Museum. Photo Richard Hammond. A must for anyone interested in contemporary art, the bold and airy purpose-built gallery at Museum Ludwig houses works in a huge range of styles, from pop art to surrealism via the abstract movement and expressionism. Highlights including one of the largest Picasso collections in Europe and an impressive compilation of early avant-garde Russian works. A thoughtfully curated programme of exhibitions keeps visitors coming back, as does the café-restaurant attached to the museum, which specialises in farm-fresh produce sourced from local, often organic, suppliers. Green Places to stay in Cologne A personal service is all part of the draw at Hotel Domstern – a spick and span three-star 16-room hotel right by the cathedral. So, too, is sustainability. Electricity comes from a green energy supplier and breakfasts are sourced ethically: organic, fair trade coffee comes from a small local roasting company; eggs, honey and more come from farmers around Cologne – the owners discovered their fruit juice supplier on a bicycle tour in the surrounding “Bergische Land”. Other items they make themselves, including yoghurt, jam, bread, butter and cream cheese. Art’Otel has artistic sensibilities and a modern outlook. Its 218 guest rooms are bright and largely white, its restaurant serves pan-Asian food, it hosts a permanent exhibition of collages by Korean-born artist SEO and its terrace overlooks a harbour that was recently gentrified as part of the Rheinhaufen urban redevelopment project. Set in the southern reaches of the city’s Old Town, it’s also one of the city’s greener hotels with water-saving showers, sophisticated ventilation systems and energy-efficient lighting. Radisson Blu Hotel Köln is an ultra-contemporary, four-star property in the city’s Deutz district, this 393-room hotel is a popular choice among business visitors. Free wifi, extensive gym and sauna facilities and easy access to the city’s leafy Rheinpark help guests unwind after hours, as does the hotel’s Feng Shui-inspired architecture. Motion detector lighting and green cleaning supplies help boost the hotel’s eco credentials. Hostel Kohn is a modern, seven-story former office building (with 262 beds in 72 rooms) on a quiet side street between Neumarkt and Rudolph Place. It's just about the perfect place to stay for the flashpacker - rooms are smart, light and minimal, and cost from €19 in a 6-bed dorm, €24 in a 4-bed dorm, €30 per person for a twin room, or €45 for a single room to yourself. Prices include ample breakfast with wide choice of cereals, yogurt and bread.

What is green travel? This blog post aims to address what is meant by 'green travel', addressing the question that many people are asking: How can we continue to travel and go on holiday given the climate and nature emergencies? Firstly, let's look at these two issues of our age: Climate Change: The concentration of carbon dioxide that is currently in the atmosphere – currently 421 PPM (according to the latest daily co2 reading on co2.earth) - is higher than at any time in at least 800,000 years. Since the Industrial Revolution in the mid 18th Century, carbon dioxide levels have risen by more than 30%. In addition, other greenhouse gases such as methane and nitrous oxide are also released through human activities and contribute to climate change. Here are a few other nuggets of information about the emergency, as reported by the BBC (for more information, see this useful article that explains Climate Change): · The world is about one degree Celsius warmer than before widespread industrialisation · The 20 warmest years on record all occurred in the past 22 years · If the current warming trend continues, temperatures could rise 3-5 degrees Celsius by the end of this century. · Temperature rises of 2 degrees Celsius had long been regarded as the gateway to dangerous warming. More recently, scientists and policymakers have argued that limiting temperature rises to 1.5C is safer. Nature Emergency: Worldwide, 1 million animal and plant species are threatened with extinction due to the intensification of agriculture and forestry, resource extraction, hunting, invasive species, urban sprawl, pollution and climate change. Yet this is not just about the disappearance of remote rainforests or polar bears at the extremities of the planet – habitat and biodiversity loss is happening on a colossal scale in the UK, to our hedgerows and forests, our garden birds and the fish in our seas. Over 15 per cent of all wildlife in the UK is threatened with extinction. So what is green travel? It's important to consider the whole life-cycle of your holiday – not just what you do in the holiday destination – as travelling to and from a holiday is often responsible for at least 70 per cent of the carbon emissions of the entire trip. Most forms of transport burn fossil fuels that emit carbon dioxide, which contributes to climate change, so the most effective way to be a greener traveller is to reduce those emissions caused by travelling to and from your holiday destination. The easiest way to achieve to this is to reduce how far you travel and/or and to travel in a way that burns less fossil fuels using lower carbon modes of transport; or by not travelling in a vehicle at all, choosing instead to travel on foot, by bike or under sail. Find alternatives to flying I believe that the single most important way to reduce your carbon dioxide emissions when travelling is, where possible, to seek low emission alternatives to flying, as there is a step difference between air travel versus most other modes of mass transport in the amount of carbon dioxide emitted and its associated effect on climate change. In general, travelling by train in the UK emits about 5 times less carbon dioxide than travelling by plane (emitting carbon dioxide at higher altitudes is also thought to have more of an effect on climate change than when it’s released at ground level). (Images left to right: Richard Hammond; Thalys: Bus and Electric car: WixMedia) According to the Energy Savings Trust, the carbon emissions for travelling from London to Edinburgh are that flying emits 144kg carbon dioxide per person; one driver doing the journey in a medium sized petrol car emits 120kg, while travelling by train emits 29kg. For travelling to Europe, there’s even more of a difference (as the trains emit less carbon dioxide – some are run on electricity rather than fossil fuels, though that electricity is only really green if it's come from non-fossil fuel power generation): travelling by Eurostar, for instance, emits approximately 10 times less carbon dioxide than travelling by plane (see Eurostar’s Tread Lightly programme). For more information about the carbon emissions associated with travelling on trains and planes, see our page on Carbon Emissions Data. If you do fly, it's worth remembering that some bigger planes burn a gallon of fossil fuel a second so it’s hard to see how they can be framed as 'green', but there is quite a large disparity between airlines, with some far more carbon-efficient than others so picking a more efficient airline is something you can do. Likewise, more fuel is burnt on take-off and landing, so try to avoid lots of polluting short-haul flights. For more information on the carbon emissions associated with flying, see Atmosfair’s Airline Index and the associated document Flight Emissions Calculator, which explains its methodology. Travelling by ferry Travelling as a foot passenger on a ferry has a low carbon emissions profile (see data from the Dept for BEIS later in this article). Many of the departure ports in the UK and in arrivals ports in Ireland, France, The Netherlands and Spain are well served by public transport, so you can take the train or coach to the ferry port, check-in and go through passport control then walk on to the ship. Similarly on arrival, you can walk off the ship and connect your onward travel with the local public transport networks. Travelling on ferries by petrol/diesel car emits higher amounts of carbon dioxide (see data below regarding the carbon emissions of foot passengers and ferry car passengers). Brittany Ferries new ship is powered by LNG (liquified natural gas). LNG is a more efficient combustion process than burning traditional fossil fuels, with around 25% fewer carbon dioxide emissions. In addition, emissions are sulphur-free and there is a significant reduction in nitrogen dioxide and particulate matter. Named after the picturesque port on the Seine estuary, the 'Honfleur' will serve Brittany Ferries’ most popular route from Portsmouth to Caen. (Images left to right: Brittany Ferries; DFDS: catering, ship and room) Booking a train or ferry from the UK to Europe can be a bit bewildering at first, so I've put together a guide to flight-free travel routes from the UK to Europe, including specific information about travelling flight-free to France, Spain and Italy. Given that the only way to take the train to Europe involves taking the Eurostar train from London, I have named most of these trips 'London to' but if you need to travel from outside London to connect with the Eurostar, I've included guides to how to travel to Europe from outside London, such as How to travel from Scotland to Europe without flying, How to travel from south west England to Europe without flying, How to travel from the North of England to Europe without Flying and How to Travel From Wales to Europe Without Flying. Once you're in your holiday destination, it's much more carbon efficient to travel by public transport than hire a petrol/diesel car or fly. As well as reducing your carbon emissions, taking the train, coach or bus within a country is like travelling like a local and enables you to appreciate places that you'd otherwise miss. When you arrive at the main railway or bus station (often they're in the centre of cities rather than requiring an onward transfer from an out of town airfield where many no-frills airlines land), instead of being bombarded with endless duty free shops, there'll be buskers and bike racks. To help you plan a holiday in the UK without a car, here are a series of car-free guides to many of the UK's protected areas, including the National Parks and the many lesser known Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (pictured below). (Images left to right: Diana Jarvis) Travelling by coach is one of the greenest forms of transport. The latest data on carbon emissions provided by the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy, reports that the emissions for coaches are 0.02732kg per passenger kilometre, whereas a medium-sized car is 0.16637kg (with an average of 1.6 passengers), while a foot passenger on a ferry is 0.01874kg (car passenger is 0.12952kg), a national rail passenger travelling on UK trains is 0.03694kg while for international rail it's just 0.00497kg. A short haul flight (ie those within Europe to/from the UK) is 0.15298kg (economy class) and 0.22947kg (business class), while a domestic flight in the UK is 0.2443kg, and a long haul flight (outside of Europe) to/from the UK is 0.14615 (Economy class) and a whopping 0.42385kg in business class. The figures given for airlines include the effect of radiative forcing, which is a measure of the additional environmental impact of aviation, including emissions of nitrous oxides and water vapour when emitted at high altitude. (images: wix media) Hiring an electric car If you really can't do without a car, then it's more carbon efficient to hire an electric car rather than a conventionally-fuelled vehicle that runs on either diesel or petrol car, which burn fossil fuels. There has been a huge uptake in the production of electric cars in recent years and many car hire companies, such as Avis, Sixt and Enterprise now hire electric cars. Do make sure you hire a car that has the appropriate mileage per battery that's relevant for you use. Also, do check the location of the charging points that you may need to use: public charging networks provide a mixture of slow, fast and rapid charging points operated by either a national or regional network so do check before you travel where best to go. In the UK, see the Zap-Map public charging guide. In Europe, apps such as Plug Share or Chargemap show the location of charge points and the type of connectors they have installed as well as the charge speed and how to pay. For more information on charging electric cars in Europe, see the Automobile Association's guide to Charging around Europe in an electric vehicle. Images left to right: Hotel les Orangeries; Orion Treehouse B&B; Can Marti; Cnoc Suain. Choose a green hotel There are plenty of places now that call themselves ‘green’, ‘eco’, or ‘responsible’, but how can you be sure their claims are accurate? It can often be difficult to tell the green from the greenwash, so here are a few questions that may help: Do they reduce their draw on energy? Do they minimise the amount of waste they send to landfill? Do they reduce their consumption of water? How much of the food they serve is sourced locally, within a few miles? Do they actively encourage guests to arrive on foot, by bike and by public transport? Do they actively encourage the conservation of biodiversity? Are they certified green? It may seem trivial, but reporting back about how green they are on review sites, such as TripAdvisor, or via social media, or on the hotel’s feedback forms, can provide invaluable information to help other travellers make more informed choices. We go into more detail in this in our post on How to tell if a hotel is green. All of the places that are featured in Green Traveller's Green Places to Stay go the extra mile to adhere to all of the above criteria through minimising their use of resources and maximising their impact on the local economy. And they are all reachable without flying from the UK. Support local food producers In supporting local food producers you'll not only be eating food that has a low food mileage (and therefore less associated carbon emissions as it hasn't had to be transported a long way), you'll also be supporting local economies, many of whom will have struggled during the Covid19 pandemic. When you’re eating out at restaurants, look out for those that have been vetted by the Sustainable Restaurant Association, and choose sustainable fish - the Marine Conservation Society has also produced a handy guide to sustainable seafood, with advice on avoiding endangered fish, such as bluefin tuna, see: fishonline.org. For more information about where to find local food and drink in destinations across the UK and Europe, see our section on Local Food and Drink as well as the 'Where to eat local food' in our green travel guides. For self-catering, even with the best intentions, it’s all too easy to set off on holiday and only remember last minute that you’ll need to take food and end up just whizz via the nearest supermarket en route and turn up with bags of plastic. Far better to plan ahead and order from a local online grocer that won’t use as much plastic and will support local producers. During the lockdown, many people turned to local food deliveries and there are many such services across the country, examples include: Local Food Direct in Somerset, Norfolk Veg Box, Great Cornish Food and Great Cornish Food. Images left to right: Kayaking in the Peloponnese (Richard Hammond); Walking in the Dordogne (Inntravel); Horse-riding in Pelion (Richard Hammond); Yoga at Las Chimeneas, Spain (Diana Jarvis). Choose low impact activities Most low-impact activities, such as cycling, canoeing, kayaking, and horse-riding enable you to reach places you couldn't otherwise get to by car. Many green places to stay now include provision for mind and body wellbeing activities, such as yoga. For more ideas of low impact holidays, see specific holidays featured in Green Traveller's magazine, plus there are a range of options in over 50 destinations in the UK and Europe in the Green Traveller's Guides. Less Carbon, More Fun!

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden we've picked out a selection of local attractions. Countless idyllic islands, stunning nature reserves, rock carvings dating back thousands of years and canals that snake on for miles - the only difficulty will be fitting it all in. West Sweden is a true haven of natural beauty. Vast nature reserves are home to hundreds of species of flora and fauna, while a myriad of animals, birds and fish thrive on the canals and islands just off the western coast. Head to the Weather Islands to catch sunbathing seals, or delve into Dalsland's forests for the chance to enounter the King of Sweden's forests, the moose. The area is also extremely rich in culture and history, with the rock carvings at Tanum dating back to the Bronze Age and the gardens at Gunnebo House charting man's changing relationship with nature. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in West Sweden The Weather Islands Otherwise known as the Väderöarna Islands, the Weather Islands number in their hundreds and offer some of the wamest and windiest climates in Sweden. This climate has created a wealth of vegetation amidst the craggy peaks, making this an ideal location for exploration. There's also plenty of space to relax - every summer, scores of Norwegians sail across to bask on the sun-kissed rocks. For nature enthusiasts there are plenty of birdwatching opportunities, and the islands are also home to one of Sweden's largest seal colonies. If you're looking to stay overnight, the Väderöarnas Värdshus is the islands' only accommodation and is famed for its fresh seafood. vastsverige.com The Koster Islands North and South Koster, Sweden's most westerly inhabited islands, are largely made up of picturesque nature reserves. Both islands offer beaches, moors, forests and rocky landscapes that are great for both walkers and cyclists - bikes can be hired at almost every pier on either island. South Koster offers some fantastic beaches, including Rörvik and Kilesand, as well as great views out over the archipelago at Valfjall. North Koster is slightly smaller (only 4km sq) and boasts a newly restored lighthouse - the view from the top is well worth the effort of climbing the steps. If you're a nature lover, there's also the chance to spot a number of endemic species of orchid throughout the north island. It's not surprise to us that it was shortlisted for the Best Emerging Destination in the World in the High Life Award 2011. vastsverige.com/en/Kosterhavet Marstrand Island Marstrand is perhaps one of the most recognisable towns on the coast of Bohuslän, renowned for its boating culture, Carlsten's Fortress, and for being a playground for the social elite since the 19th century. With a great deal of attractive wooden architecture, the island is worth at least a few hours of exploration while Carlsten's Fortress, once considered one of Europe's strongest maritime defence facilities, can be explored on your own or with a guide, and it even has its own hotel for those looking for a little unusual accommodation. The Grand Hotel Marstrand (this has been renovated but the grand architecture remains) and the Societetshuset are also beautiful areas from which to admire the town. vastsverige.com Biosphere at Lake Vänern Lake Vänern is Sweden's largest lake, and the Biosphere Reserve comprises of around 63% of the total surface area (including 4,569 islands). The lake itself dates back to 6500 BC and boasts over 20,000 small islands, islets and rocks making it the largest freshwater archipelago in the world. Also at the centre of the biosphere reserve is the impressive Mount Kinnekulle, Västergötland’s highest plateau mountain, and the entire reserve has been protected by UNESCO since 2010. With a national park to explore, plus numerous nature reserves, this is an ideal adventure for all nature lovers. On top of that, a project is currently underway to make the area Sweden's first 'Destination of Eco Tourism'. This involves creating lots of new hiking and biking trails, as well as strengthening ties with the local community. Gota Canal Constructed in the early 19th century, the Göta canal is 118 miles long and stretches from the Great Lake Vänern in the west to Söderköping on the Baltic Sea. The banks of the canal are lined with scenic vistas, beautiful towns and quaint villages. One of the canal's most popular attractions is the chain of locks at Berg, where seven connected locks lift the boats some 18 metres out of the water. Many visitors explore the canal in their own boats, but it is also possible to book classic canal boats offering both long and short-term trips. If you fancy exploring on land, the old labour road is a popular cycling track and there are a number of walking and hiking paths along the way. gotakanal.se Dalsland Canal Dalsland Canal is a haven for canoeists and kayakers, a 240km system of serene lakes, lush wilderness and picturesque campsites. A number of tour operators also offer organised canal cruises between May and September. There are a selection of sights and attractions along the canal, including the passage at Haverud - a combination of roadway bridge, railway bridge and aqueduct dating back to 1868. The House of Crafts, located by the beautiful Lake Upperudsholjen, is one of the best places to find local Swedish arts and crafts, and Dalsland's Museum is also close by. Gunnebo House and Gardens Just outside of central Gothenburg, Gunnebo House and Gardens is known as one of Europe's foremost 18th Century country estates. A fine example of neoclassical architecture, the grounds also feature three separate gardens; the formal garden, the landscape park and the kitchen garden - all of which are open every day, all year between sunrise and sunset. Each of these was originally designed by architect Carl Wilhelm Carlberg and are lovingly maintained by hand, without using any pesticides. Particularly interesting is the landscape or 'English' park, which tells the story of the late 18th Century, in which the Age of Enlightenment saw a changing of attitudes towards man's relationship with nature. Gunnebo boasts impressive environmental credentials, having been awarded Gothenburg's Environment Diploma in May 2006, and guests can try fruit and veg grown on site in the restaurant. vastsverige.com Tanum Rock Carvings In the north of Bohuslän, the area around the locality of Tanumshede has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the large collection of 'petroglyphs' or rock carvings that date back to the Bronze Age. These fascinating carvings are believed to have been created at around 1700 - 500 BC, stretching along some 25km of coastline. Scandinavian Bronze Age people were sophisticated craftsmen and competent travellers by water, with many of the carvings depicting boats and fishermen as well as numerous animals and weapons. They have been interpreted as primitive symbolic art with specific motifs and carefully planned positioning. As such, the carvings offer a great insight into the social and religious life of the Bronze Age people. vastsverige.com Karlsborgs Fortress With a circumference of 5km, this awe-inspiring fortress is one of Europe's largest built structures. Originally created to house the Swedish parliament, the crown jewels, the royal family and the country's gold reserves in the event of war, this magnificent building is deservedly popular throughout the year. Visitors can join one of the guided tours, which starts with a film on life in the fortress in the late 19th-century; you'll then explore the underground network of tunnels below and get a fascinating insight into the role of the fortress throughout the past two centuries. Definitely worth the detour. Läckö Slott The magnificent baroque castle with its fairytale splendour of turrets and domes lies on the edge of Lake Vânern, Sweden's largest lake. There are beautiful gardens to roam, including herb and kitchen gardens, and wildflower gardens. There are various places to eat, such as the restaurant which uses vegetables from the garden and fish caught in the lake, and a lovely café on the embankment with homebaked bread. The castle hosts a series of fascinating exhibitions throughout the year, as well as opera evenings in the beautiful courtyard. Plenty to keep the children entertained too, from puzzles and trails to puppet theatre. lackoslott.se Carlsten's Fortress This impressive stone fortress on Marstrand Island was originally built by King Carl X of Sweden in 1658 to defend the newly acquired province of Bohuslän from invaders. The dramatic history of the fort is perhaps best experienced with the help of an expert guide, while those that conquer the steps up to the top of the tower will be rewarded with with truly stunning views out over the entire Marstrand archipelago. During the traditional fort festival, life in the 1700s is colourfully recontructed, complete with prisoners, soldiers and firing cannons. A range of re-enactments, conferences and historical meals are arranged at the fort throughout the year. Nordiska Akvarellmuseet Jutting out over the water on a rocky outpost, the long, sleek, award-winning Nordic Watercolour Museum houses an impressive collection of world-class art from across the Nordic countries. The venue also holds courses in watercolour painting, as well as hosting children’s workshops, art lectures, music concerts and guided tours. Four studios across the water are available to rent overnight. There’s a gourmet café and restaurant specialising in fish dishes, and an interesting, well-stocked museum shop. Take a bracing dip outside, paint in one of the open workshops, enjoy a concert: this is definitely an art museum with a difference. akvarellmuseet.org Glasets Hus Founded in 1740, Glasets Hus is Sweden’s oldest glassworks, producing over 1.5 million glass bottles daily. Although best known for the production of the iconic Absolute Vodka bottles, which accounts for 95% of glass produced, the glassworks also oversees screen printing, etching and glass painting. In 2012, it opened its doors to the public, allowing visitors the opportunity to delve into four centuries of the glassworks’ history, as well as view exhibitions by local and national artists. You can even try your hand at glassblowing in the workshops. Round the visit off with a coffee in the beautiful winter garden. glasetshuslimmared.se Havets Hus Watch congers swim overhead in the 140,000 litre tunnel aquarium, get up close and personal to starfish and crabs in the touch pool, learn about the different sea beds and the sorts of creatures that live down below. There are over 100 species in Havets Hus, from the colourful Cuckoo Wrasse to the endangered lesser spotted dogfish, all of which you will find in the Skagerrak and Kattegak Seas outside the aquarium. There’s a daily seal safari departing from Lysekil, as well as guided tours, an underwater safari, and a great gift shop where you can pick up a memento of your visit. havetshus.se Gothenburg Botanical Garden Home to one of the finest collections of wild Japanese plants, and widely regarded as the most beautiful public gardens in Sweden, Gothenburg Botanical Gardens comprises 175 hectares of wild and cultivated gardens, including rock and bamboo gardens, rhododendron gardens, herb gardens, woods, a Japanese glade and a nature reserve, as well as greenhouses filled to the brim with tropical plant species, including 1,500 orchids. You can easily lose a day wandering round the various areas, and there are trails and puzzles to keep the children amused, as well as a shop and a small garden centre. botaniska.se Kosters Gardens The old fish farm has been completely transformed into a series of orgnically-run gardens – produce from the land goes straight to the restaurant and café on site, where head chef Anna uses the seasonal ingredients to whip up fantastic dishes, from freshly-baked bread and cakes to simple lunches and delicious dinners. The old sheds are now a clutch of intriguing shops and workshops: visitors can stock up on garden goodies in the farm shop, such as homemade jams, eggs, as well as gardening tools, art and pottery, hammocks and other garden items. Pop by for a wander round the gardens and a lesson in permaculture: the dedicated team will happily share their gardening tips with visitors. kosterstradgardar.se

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden we've picked out a selection of places to stay. On top of a rich and varied natural landscape, West Sweden has a great number of eco-friendly accommodations to choose from, suiting all tastes and budgets. With dense woodland, rugged coastline and deserted islands in equal measure, it is no wonder West Sweden is home to such a wide variety of eco-accommodations. At one end you'll find the most luxurious of hotels, one of which even offers its own floating sauna. At the other, a collection of homely B&Bs rustle up organic breakfasts to enjoy while looking out over lakes and archipelagos. Finally, our selection of fantastic treehouses offer all the luxuries of a hotel combined with lots of natural light and a bird’s-eye-view of the world. Read on to find out which of our accommodations best suits you. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to West Sweden: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in West Sweden Slussens Pensionat Music venue, charming hotel, award-winning organic restaurant. Slussens Pensionat wears many hats. Between the months of May and August, performers big and small descend upon the venue, creating a, vibrant midsummer festival feel to this lively place. There are various packages to chose from, ranging from spa weekends to ‘slow stay’ weekends which includes kayaking and cycling, to coast to coast cycling holidays. Whichever package you opt for you’ll be treated to wonderful overnight accommodation and fabulous organic food throughout your stay. An exciting, alternative venue to soak up the magic of some of Sweden's best musicians. slussenspensionat.se Salt and Sill Hotel Sweden's first floating hotel. That's right - bobbing gently beside the harbour of a small fishing community on the herring island of Klädesholmen, this ingenious hotel offers 22 and one suite (complete with private roof-top jacuzzi), all of which boast their own outdoor seating areas that offer fantastic views out over the archipelago. Each room has been given a simple, stylish interior using locally sourced materials, while the award-winning restaurant is renowned for serving some of the freshest fish dishes around. The hotel also offers complementary bikes for guests looking to explore the surrounding area, but you must also make sure to take a trip on the hotel's floating sauna and spend the day alternating between the sauna itself and swimming in the cool sea water. saltosill.se Storåns Pensionat Schoolhouse, orphanage, home to the famous English Composer Howard Blake, this building has certainly had a colourful past. These days, the pretty cream-painted house offers delicious seasonal food in its restaurant and café and six homely B&B rooms upstairs. The house is surrounded by an old-fashioned garden dotted with tables and chairs and, beyond, open fields and forests which beg exploration by foot, bike or horse. While away an afternoon with a rod down by the lake, hunt for mushrooms or berries in the woods in season, go canoeing or hiking: you’re spoilt for choice for things to do and the friendly owners will point you in the right direction if you’re stuck for ideas. storanspensionat.se Lekanders Bär och Boende On a rocky outcrop and surrounded by strawberry fields, this farm has been in Mats’ family since the 17th century. The old stables now house seven double rooms (two with bunks for families), each leading onto a patio with views over the fields and out towards the wooded hills; there are also two 2-bed flats if you prefer to self-cater. Come here to get involved in the intriguing range of activities: set off at first light on a nature safari, where you’ll eat breakfast in a hut in the woods! Or give willow plaiting or candle making a go. The sea’s only 3km away, too. lekander.nu Resö Gamla Skola The little rocky outcrop of Resö, which is just 61 hectares in size, is a thriving fishing community and is part of Sweden’s only marine national park, Kosterhavet. Built in the 1920’s, the pale yellow schoolhouse has been recently refurbished and offers charming accommodation, either as B&B, self-catering or for hire for corporate events. Alternatively, you can hire the whole house for your own family gathering or event. Breakfast is a feast of local goodies, and there’s a lovely restaurant at the other end of the harbour for evenings out. Come here to do as much or as little as you like: swim, cycle (there are bikes to borrow), take the small boat out on the water. Or kick back with a book in the beautiful gardens. resogamlaskola.se Hajstorp Slusscafé & Vandrarhem Passionate potter Marianna has transformed this old smithy on the Gota Canal into a charming little B&B. The low slung building comprises four surprisingly light and airy double rooms, each with pretty floral wallpaper and good beds; alternatively you can opt for bunk accommodation in the cottages. Breakfast is enjoyed in the lock keeper’s cottage, where freshly-baked pastries arrive each morning from the bakery down the road. There’s plenty to do in the area: take a dip in the canal (it’s clean!), try your hand at throwing a pot at Marianne’s workshop, ply the canal in a boat or explore the towpaths on foot or by bike. hajstorp.com Pensionat Prästgården Töreboda Brother and sister team Urban and Yvonne have breathed new life into the old vicarage, built in 1910, in the heart of Töreboda. Ten beautifully furnished bedrooms are serene and calm: white-painted bedsteads, original polished floorboards, floaty floor to ceiling curtains frame large windows where views roll down over the lovely gardens; bathrooms sparkle. You’ll eat well in the cosy restaurant – the owners have extensive catering experience between them – and you’re spoilt for choice for things to do: hire bikes and potter along the canal, pootle up the canal in a boat, trek into the Tiveden Forests. Time your visit with the town’s lively festival in July for midsummer music and entertainment. prastgarden.nu Herrtorps Qvarn There’s little here to disturb the peace except the rhythmic trickle of running water and the gentle hum of wildlife. The neat rooms, each with a well-equipped kitchen, have views over the stream. You’ll be treated to fabulous regional seasonal food, and the gardens are a joy to explore, with little bridges crisscrossing the water, wooded areas, herb gardens and colourful floral displays at every turn. Make the most of the location and take out a canoe for the day; Lake Hornborgo is 6km upstream. Or take a rod to the water and fish for trout. A captivating oasis in one of West Sweden’s oldest cultural spots. herrtorpsqvarn.se Nästegårdens B&B This cosy little B&B has only recently been renovated using traditional craftsmanship and materials. The owners have created an 18th Century aesthetic complete with handmade wallpapers, antique linen, natural paints and hand-blown window panes. The two guest bedrooms are comfortable and airy, while the kitchen boasts an old Husqvarna wood burning stove. The surrounding area is particularly stunning, and has been described as one of the most beautiful and well-preserved cultural landscapes in Sweden. Just north of the house is Hornborga lake, where, each year, thousands of 'dancing' cranes come to perform a courtship dance. nastegarden.se Pensionat Styrsö Skäret You'll find Styrsö Skäret Guest House on the beautiful Styrsö Island, only half an hour's boat ride from Salthomen in Gothenburg. Each of the thirteen guestrooms is individually decorated, while guests can choose to have either a sea view or a room that overlooks the garden.The guesthouse offers a sumptuous buffet breakfast, as well as a number of dishes prepared using veg from their garden and a whole variety of local, organic produce. As you might expect from an accommodation with such a fantastic location, there's a whole range of walking routes right on your doorstep. There's also the chance to fish, sail and kayak nearby. pensionatskaret.se Tingvall B&B Tingvall's simple Scandinavian design acts to complement the hotel's natural environment, and the building itself is impressively eco-minded - they source most of their electricity from solar panels and wood turbines, while water is treated using a greywater purification system. Breakfast is prepared using local ingredients and fresh produce from the garden and greenhouse, and there's also a cafe that serves up delicious homemade cakes. Three circular walking routes start right outside the house, plus you can canoe, hike, bike, fish and swim nearby. There's also the opportunity to visit the beautiful coastal fishing villages of Grebbestad and Fjällbacka. minto-tingvall.com Läckö Strand B&B With the beauty of Lake Vänern in front, and the dense forest behind, Läckö Strand B&B offers both B&B and hostel rooms within the ultimate natural setting. The B&B sections has double, single and twin rooms, all of which are comfortable and modern. The price of the B&B room includes a delicious organic buffet breakfast that includes homemade bread, local eggs and organic coffee. In high season, the breakfast is set up in the main building, in low season the owners will pop your breakfast into your fridge. Hostel rooms are either two-bed or four-bed and are found in separate houses, as well as a communal living room and terrace boasting fantastic views over Lake Vänern. There's a wealth of activities in the area, and guests can rent bikes, kayaks and canoes from the owners. lackostrand.se STF Lugnåsbergets Vandrarhem This hostel makes a great base for exploring the lakes, quarries and mills of the region. But if you’d rather stay put, the large garden and onsite activities will be enough to keep you happy for days. The 6-room hostel is run as sustainably as possible, particularly when it comes to food: their dinner baskets are packed with local, seasonal produce, such as traditional sausage, local honey and locally-smoked salmon. The large wooden veranda has views over the grazing cows in the nearby fields – a lovely spot to soak up the morning sun with a cup of coffee. If you’re looking for wildlife-watching, wander down to the lake to spot beavers. lugnasberget.se Utpost Hållö Just off Smögen on Sweden’s west coast lies the rocky little island (and nature reserve) of Hållö, with its pink granite rocks and crystal clear waters – perfect for swimming and watersports. Within touching distance of the water’s edge, this small but lively hostel, formed of a cluster of red wooden buildings, houses ten chalet-style rooms for two and four people; the café serves up plenty of homemade treats. Arrive in winter for deep snow, or watch the waves break on the shore in stormy weather. The reserve is teeming with wildlife throughout the year making this spot a nature lovers’ paradise. utposthallo.se Hafsten Swecamp Resort Once the holiday spot of Swedish kings, the area of Uddevalla, on Sweden’s west coast, is a beautiful place to wind up. If you’re looking for a family-friendly place where the kids can safely roam free and you can catch up on some much needed R&R, then the Hafsten Swecamp Resort, a stone’s throw from the beach, is hard to beat. The vast resort is packed with family-friendly accommodation, from tents and campers to caravans and cabins, and bursting with activities to keep the whole family entertained, from canoeing and horse riding to fishing and hiking. There’s also a wellness centre with spa and hot tubs. hafsten.se Backa Loge Those looking to escape modern day life on holiday will find comfort at this no-frills hostel on the banks of Lake Fegen. The old 17th-century house has recently been renovated but the creaking floorboards and old fireplaces are reminders of its heritage. The rooms (6 doubles, 1 single) are simple yet charming, and the kitchens look out over the lake which is brimming with wildlife year-round; sit back and watch the ospreys play over the water. At breakfast you’ll be treated to homemade bread, cakes and waffles served in the cosy café onsite. The hostel hosts events throughout the year. backaloge.se Stora Hotellet Bryggan, Fjällbacka, Sweden A fabulous collection of places to stay and places to eat on the picturesque jetty at Fjällbacka. A lovely hotel or self-catering apartment, plus café-bar, restaurant and bistros. Lots to do in the area, from boat trips to hiking and fishing. brygganfjallbacka.se

Here are a few of my photos from my visit to Cleveland Pools in Bath - the UK's oldest lido that re-opened earlier this week. Built in 1815 (in Jane Austen's lifetime), the site first opened as a river-fed pool and was used throughout the Victorian era. The halcyon days of the lido were in the 1970s, but competition from the indoor Bath Sports and Leisure Centre led to the closure of Cleveland Pools in 1984. Thanks to the efforts of three local people, Ann Dunlop (see photo below), Janice Dreisbach and Roger Houghton, the Cleveland Pools Trust (CPT) was formed in 2004 to rescue the pools from disrepair. The site has now been given a makeover thanks to a grant from the National Heritage Lottery (with support from the local council, Historic England and local people) and the work of lots of dedicated volunteers, ably led by Project Director Anna Baker. Dates will be announced shortly for cold water swimming over the winter before the first heated season begins next year. Cleveland Pools have done a fabulous job retaining the character of the place. For more info, see: clevelandpools.org.uk. Rhiannon Batten has written a lovely article in the Guardian capturing the spirit of the re-opening: ‘Today is a magic moment’: Bath’s 207-year-old lido reopens after four decades of neglect On Friday 30th September, The BBC's The One Show broadcast a piece about the opening, you can watch it here (just a few minute's into the show): https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m001clcy/the-one-show-30092022 All photos Copyright © Richard Hammond/Greentraveller

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Zagori and the Epirus Coast, here's our pick of places to visit. From Unesco-listed Vikos Gorge to arcs of wild beach, from magical villages where time seems to have stopped to the mouth of Hades and a ruined Roman city, Zagori and Epirus are not short of sights. It’s no surprise that Vikos, the world’s deepest gorge, takes star billing in Zagori. Yet centuries of isolation has preserved a distinct human history here, too. Beautiful frescoed chapels in woods, picturesque stone bridges and the region’s 46 villages themselves, the Zagorohoria, reveal a region of living history. Towards the coast, that historical timeframe stretches back to temples that were considered ancient even by Homer. That they’re a short drive from the beach only adds to their appeal. We’ve highlighted the best natural sights, the most traditional villages and the key antiquities to visit in this fascinating region. We’ve also selected the best beaches – both the family-friendly and those quiet escapes Greeks like to keep for themselves. Oxia viewpoint, Monodendri, Zagori, Greece From the most accessible viewpoint of the Vikos Gorge you receive a leg-wobbling view of the Unesco-listed canyon, officially the world’s deepest (1,000m) in relation to its width (1,000m). Its wall of limestone plummets as a sheer cliff, stained orange by iron and fuzzed at its base by lush forest. A path notched into the cliff on the left provides the best photos if your nerves are up to it. Ovires natural pools, Megalo Papigo, Zagori, Greece Villagers cool off in high summer in this wooded limestone gorge which burrows into a hillside between Megalo and Mikro Papigo. The Rogovo stream has carved out a series of interconnected plunge-pools – a lovely place to wallow in natural jacuzzis filled with cool (12–14˚C), pure spring water, sliding from one to the next via weed-slippery chutes. Come for a stroll, too, because the wooded gorge becomes steeper and narrower the further back you go. Park in a layby on the main road opposite the canyon entrance. Vikos Gorge, Zagori, Greece In the heart of the Pindos mountains lies the mighty Vikos Gorge – the world's deepest at 1000m – cutting a jagged course for 20km through the Vikos-Aoos National Park. There are some great viewing spots from the villages of Monodendri and Vikos. There is a fantastic viewing point at Oxia, and plenty of trails that lead deep within the gorge for some superb hiking. Kalogeriko Bridge, Kipi, Zagori, Greece In a landscape riddled by canyons Zagori residents became expert stone bridge-builders – under the Ottoman occupation, sultans acclaimed local architects the finest of their empires. Six span gorges around Kipi village, the most celebrated being this picturesque bridge (1814) which hopscotches 56m across the river in three arches. Actually, locals acclaim the high, single-span Kokkori bridge (1750) nearby as the more impressive engineering feat. Monastery of Panagia Spileotissa, Aristi, Zagori, Greece A monk sought solitude in a cave near the Voidomatis river. Followers arrived, then a tiny monastery was built over his hermitage in 1579, in later decades a refuge from invading Ottomans for villagers. Still, the upshot is the most atmospheric chapel in Zagori, hidden from sight deep in beautiful woodland. The size of a matchbox with the atmosphere of a cathedral, its tiny interior is covered in inky-blue and ruby frescos. Source the key (and request a guide) from En Aristi restaurant. Accessible at all times is a belltower with lovely woodland views, reached by a scramble up beside the monastery’s entrance. Convent of Agia Paraskevi, Monodendri, Zagori, Greece Zagori’s most cultural popular sight is this 15th-century convent 500m from the village square. There’s a small frescoed chapel within its tiny courtyard complex yet it’s more impressive for its precarious position clinging to the lip of the Vikos Gorge. Small wonder it served as an impregnable redoubt for villagers during Ottoman expansion in the 1500s. If you can laugh at heights, take a footpath notched around the cliff beside the monastery to reach the fortified gateway behind which villagers picked off any invaders. Kapesovo, Zagori, Greece One of the area’s best-preserved hamlets, Kapesovo is the sort of unspoilt backwater everyone likes to stumble upon. Sleepy and built of stone the colour of old ivory, it basks in sunshine on a high southern slope. Park outside the hamlet, walk down to the tiny square with a wonderful café-shop and pocket-sized bar, then explore cobbled lanes built with incorprated gutters to channel winter rain. Rizario Handicraft Centre, Monodendri, Zagori, Greece Beyond some mass-produced products in the foyer there’s fine traditional embroidery and tapestry displayed and sold here. It’s the outlet of a 150-year-old church handicrafts’ school in Monodendri – girls come from nationwide to enroll on a two-year course which maintains Zagoria craft traditions. A small embroidery sampler can take students months to complete, so prices are not cheap. An affiliated gallery in a nearby mansion holds photography exhibitions. Kipi, Zagori, Greece While there’s no sight per se, Kipi is one of the most traditional villages of Zagori. Nicely lived-in, with a ramshackle charm, it spills down a hillside in a cats-cradle of alleys full of interesting corners. Wildflowers bloom between cobbles. Jasmine clambers up drainpipes and tomato plants flourish in old oil cans on terraces. One for the photo album. Sarakiniko, near Parga, Greece Though busy in peak season due to taxi boats from Parga, Sarakiniko provides a wonderful beach-day at other times. Its crescent of sand arcs beneath a hillside of silver olive trees, stretching between rocky headlands that offer good snorkelling, and there are three tavernas for lunch. If you have toddlers, be aware that the bay shelves steeply in places. Agia Paraskevi, near Syvota, Greece Tricky to find – it’s not signposted except by hoardings (look for that of Nisaki taverna) – but that keeps this quieter than many beaches in the area. A strip of sand and coarse shingle, it’s popular with Greek holidaymakers. That the crystal-clear bay is gently shelving and sheltered from waves by a pine-scrubbed islet makes it so ideal for young children. Monolithi, near Preveza, Greece South of quiet Kanali resort and kilometres long, the favourite beach of Preveza locals always has space to spare. It’s more natural than most strands in the area, with eucalyptus and pine forest backing its long deep arc of sand, and open waters of Blue Flag quality – expect small waves by mid-afternoon when the wind increases. Facilities include a couple of beach bars providing snacks, drinks and parasols. Lichnos, near Parga, Greece One of the most popular beaches in the area, served by regular taxi boats from Parga harbour. Factor in a medium-sized resort hotel, several tavernas with holiday accommodation and a couple of beach bars and it’s no surprise this is busy in peak season. Nevertheless, it’s a handsome swoop of sand, with watersports hire and interesting snorkelling around its high headlands. It gets quieter the further you go. Nekromanteion of Acheron, near Preveza, Greece The future was revealed to the dead, believed the ancient Greeks who built this fourth-century BC oracle to Hades. So, for devotees, this mazey temple complex – today sketched out by walls of massive hewn stone – really was the gateway to the Underworld. Homer had Odysseus scarifice a ram on what was an island above a swamp fed by the Acheron river, aka the Styx. At the temple’s core is a subterranean chamber, presumed to be the doorway to the underworld. With its moody lighting and dead acoustic it’s hugely atmospheric. Archaeological site of Dodona, near Ioannina, Greece Homer names it in the Ilyiad – Achilles comes here to pray – and Herodotus dates it to 2,000 BC. Sited in a broad valley, the oldest Hellenic oracle retains some of the magic that made it a place of worship to Gaia (Mother Earth) then Zeus – his spirit was said to live in the roots of oak trees and answer questions posed by devotees via priestesses who “slept on the ground with unwashed feet” to remain connected to the earth, Homer claims. The site’s most impressive attraction is the celebrated theatre from the 3rd century BC, added by King Pyrrhus, of victory fame. With a capacity of about 18,000 spectators, it is one of the country’s largest. Nikopolis, near Preveza, Greece To celebrate his victory over the combined fleets of Antony and Cleopatra to become Roman emperor, Octavian built a new town on the bay from which his army sailed. Excavated finds of 30BC Nikopolis (literally, ‘Victory City’) are displayed in an Archaeological Museum of Nikopolis on Preveza’s suburbs. Its marble carvings and mosaics are a good primer for a visit to the site itself, a mix of Roman and Byzantine ruins spread over a vast area. Christian basilicas jut from the grass and you can climb on to a section of massive Byzantine city wall with a gate. Beyond it lies the theatre, currently undergoing restoration. For nearby places to eat, and local places of interest and low impact activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Zagori and the Epirus Coast

James Stewart discovers some of Zagori's finest ingredients – from crumbly feta to mountain lamb – and the passionate producers behind them, and forages for wild mushrooms I’m in the mossy dell of an oak wood in Zagori, mainland Greece. Gold coins of sunlight are scattered over the forest floor and the air smells richly fertile. Crusty with lichen, a small chapel is half-hidden among the trees. I’m not sure which feels more sacred, that chapel or this beautiful, quiet woodland. Vikos Gorge, the world’s deepest chasm by width, lies 20 minutes away. But Vasilis Katsoupas wants to highlight another side of Zagori instead. He’s brought me to forage for wild mushrooms. I’ve rarely met anyone as passionate about an ingredient as Vasilis. After decades as an ecologist for Greenpeace and Friends of the Earth in Canada, he runs foraging and ecology trips in Zagori’s quieter corners and cultivates mushrooms for his mushroom-themed restaurant, Kanela and Garifallo. For Vasilis, mushrooms are not simply a foodstuff. They are a building block of Zagori culture. He explains: “People take things for granted. Most of us don’t appreciate nature and how we’re a part of it; we tend to see ourselves as masters of the universe. Foraging like this and talking about our food and where it comes from helps us connect with the environment. It brings food back to a specific location and our place within it.” He could be speaking for the culinary culture of Zagori. A sparsely-populated corner of Greece near the Albanian border, Zagori prepares a menu as distinct as its wild landscapes. Its cuisine is one steeped in self-sufficiency. When every imported ingredient came from beyond the mountains on foot or by donkey – roads only appeared here in the 1950s – villagers lived from surrounding woodlands, meadows and alpine pasture. “My family farmed here for generations,” Costas Zissis, a nature photographer in Aristi, tells me. “We had everything we needed: wheat from fields by the Voidomatis river, sheep from the mountain meadows for cheese and meat, cows for dairy, berries and wild honey, even some vines for wine.” He talks about chamois once hunted in the Pindos mountains, about a mountain flower which brews a refreshing herbal tea and of dog rose hips packed with Vitamin C. Like the traditional dishes of rural France and Italy, Zagori cooking is stewed in a peasant past; a cuisine of survival foods refined into pure pleasure. Founded on sheep’s cheese, fresh vegetables and meat, it is also Greek cooking at its best – honest, unpretentious, delicious. If foodie buzzwords like “local”, “organic”, “homemade” and “seasonal” have yet to catch on, it’s only because they are taken for granted. The bread and jams served at breakfast in your family guesthouse? Ubiquitously homemade (it speaks volumes that there are no Zagori bakeries). Vegetables served in restaurants generally come from the family garden and cheeses and meats are typically from a neighbouring farm. This is terroir and then some. I first sample this at a restaurant in Megalo Papigo. Above its vine-covered terrace, muscular cliffs are flushing pink in the sunset. It’s pinch-me beautiful. Yet I hardly notice such is the quality of the cooking. Having entrusted my selection to the family owners, plates arrive like a culinary Sorcerer’s Apprentice; a salad of tomatoes and soft feta cheese; chanterelle mushrooms picked that day and sautéed with garlic and parsley; zucchini perfectly seasoned with olive oil, lemon and salt; succulent pink veal with french fries flecked with thyme. To aid digestion there’s tsiporou, a light grappa that the owners swear is a cure-all. Every ingredient is from the family farm, they say. Indeed, some ingredients grew in the vegetable and herb beds that surround the restaurant. Talk about food miles in Zagori and you often have to reduce the measurement to metres. Even the region’s fine-dining address, Salvia, maintains the ethos. Nothing comes from more than 40 miles away, the chef tells me after my meal (local trout with dewdrops of honey). To guarantee fresh salads and herbs, he has a greenhouse and garden, “of course”. When quality is assured, food dilemmas come down to choice. So what to eat? The surprise is that the local speciality is pies. Based on flour and eggs, Zagori pies come in as many varieties as there are households: either quiche-like or wrapped in flakey pastry, often cooked with mountain greens, spinach or feta, always seasoned with local herbs. They are an art passed through generations as much as a kitchen staple. As central is the crumbly soft feta from sheep grazed in Zagori’s pure alpine pasture. A world away from the salty slabs in supermarkets, this is the original Greek feta from which all others derive. Look out, too, for stews of huge gigantes beans with spinach, tomato and herbs, and slow-roast lamb. As ubiquitous are sweet liqueurs flavoured with local walnuts, cherries or mountain herbs; all homemade, naturally. Back in our oak wood, we harvest just a plate or two of chanterelle mushrooms (we’re a little late in the season).Vasilis is disappointed. Not me. Our tour has revealed the terroir behind the tastes; the pasture, woods, wildflower meadows and cold clean rivers that nurture a delicious cuisine. “Food here is not just something to eat. It’s part of Zagori itself,” Vasilis says. I’ll say grace to that. Words by James Stewart

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Gower, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to stay in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in south Wales. Conjure up your perfect weekend on the coast. Do you want to stay in a fairytale house, a shepherd's hut, a converted barn, an old farmhouse? No problem, it's all on offer in Gower. A warm welcome comes as standard on the peninsula, especially at our pick of the best hotels, B&Bs and self-catered properties. After all, you're going to need a good night's sleep and a big breakfast with all that exploring to do. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Gower: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Gower Worm's Head Hotel, Gower, Wales A beautiful view over Rhossili Bay and every bedroom faces the sea. There’s one standout reason to stay at the Worm’s Head Hotel, and that’s the insanely beautiful view out over Rhossili Bay. The sweeping beach, sunlit hills and the wreck of the HMS Helvetia stranded on shore will captivate you. Luckily there’s no need to fight for a room with a view, as all the accommodation here faces the lovely bay. Rooms are simply furnished but comfortable and there’s a pleasant restaurant, cosy bar and terrace downstairs. thewormshead.co.uk King Arthur Hotel, Gower, Wales The location of the King Arthur, in chilled-out Reynoldston with the moorland and the sea both a walk away, makes it a wonderful choice for a relaxed weekend away. kingarthurhotel.co.uk Oxwich Bay Hotel, Gower, Wales The wonderful restaurant is a real highlight, as are the friendly, smiling staff. The little details, from vintage radios to toiletries in the rooms, are well thought-out. oxwichbayhotel.co.uk Parc le Breos House, Gower, Wales The comfy, sumptuously kitted out rooms and the friendly yet luxurious common rooms make the whole experience like spending a weekend at someone's country retreat. parc-le-breos.co.uk Tallizmand Guest House, Gower, Wales A cosy and friendly atmosphere reins supreme and owners David and Anne can send you off with a packed lunch. gowerholidays.com King's Head Inn, Gower, Wales A 17th-century inn that is dog-friendly and serves homecooked food. Underfloor heating soothes walk-weary feet and your evening meal is only a few steps away. kingsheadgower.co.uk Tir-Cethin Farm, Gower, Wales A pair of luxury self-catering barn conversions surrounded by the UK's first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. A perfect example of eco-luxury, this is also a fantastic base for everything from walking and pony-trekking to kite surfing. tircethinfarm.co.uk Slade Barn, Gower, Wales A woodburning stove and lots of oak features keep it cosy, whilst modern marble and granite make it feel sleek and contemporary. sladebarngower.co.uk Hillside Farm, Gower Peninsula, South Wales The Hillside Farm (Country Retreat) tents are sited in an orchard close by the farmhouse. Views stretch back across the AONB Gower Peninsular taking in scattered hamlets and rocky outcrops with 15 miles of glorious coastline to explore, dogs welcome. featherdown.co.uk Pitton Cross Caravan and Camping Park, Gower, Wales If you fancy a campsite stay but aren't too keen on sleeping under canvas there are pretty shepherds huts also available to hire. pittoncross.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Gower

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos and the Small Cyclades, here's our pick of local visitor attractions. No Greek island would be complete without an impressive ruin or temple to gawp at – and Naxos is no exception. From the magnificent Portara standing tall at the entrance to Naxos Town – the emblem of Naxos and the region's most visited site – to Naxos' very own mini Acropolis, the Temple of Demeter, the islands are full of intriguing places to wander around. The island has its fair share of fascinating museums giving visitors an insight into some of the area's cultural heritage: there's the Eggares olive press museum, a citron distillery which offers free tastings and a collection of wonderful museums in central Naxos. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Naxos & the Small Cyclades Ancient Sites Portara, Naxos Arriving by boat, the magnifient Portara – the monumental marble doorway of an unfinished Temple of Apollo – is likely to be your first taste of the ancient glories of Naxos; it's little surprise that it has become the emblem of Naxos and is the most visited landmark on the island. Built on the islet of Palatia and connected to Naxos Town by a walkway, contruction began in the 6th century BC by tyrant Lygdamis, but didn't get much further than the entranceway and foundations, all of which can still be seen today. It's a special place to visit at any time of day, but sunsets are particularly spectacular – possibly one of the loveliest settings in Greece – though you'll have to vie for a photo spot with the throngs of other visitors who climb up to the temple as dusk descends. Demeter Temple, Naxos The setting couldn't be more apt for a temple dedicated to the god of harvest and agriculture – off the beaten path, the beautiful ruins, which date from the 6th century BC, lie amongst miles and miles of open farmland. It's a pretty five-minute walk up oleander-lined paths to this mini Acropolis, and there's a little museum about the history of the site (closed Monday, check opening times). Until fairly recently there was little to see here: over the millennia, the building's columns and stones had been reused in local buildings, including a church on site, but a team of archaeologists restored the temple to its ancient former glory ten years ago. Everything you see is original, however; some of the blocks of marble look as pristine as the day they were hewn from the nearby quarries. Archaeological Museum, Naxos Housed in a Venetian mansion at the very top of Naxos Old Town, this is a wonderful small collection of Cycladic art and history dating back to 5300BC gathered from Naxos and the surrounding islands of Keros, Donousa and Koufonisia. The finds, most of which have been recovered from tombs across the region, include Early Cycladic marble figurines, Classical pottery and terracotta items, Prehistoric tools and weapons and objects made from ivory, gold and semi-precious stones. The museum opens out onto a wonderful enclosed courtyard featuring a Roman mosaic at its centre, with spectacular views across Naxos from the castle walls. Please note: open Tuesdays and Saturdays only. Bazeos Tower, Naxos The imposing stone tower, perfectly square and fronted by a high walled courtyard, is a fine example of the sort of Venetian buildings that were constructed across Naxos in the early 17th century. Originally built as a monastery, it was bought by the current Italian family (Baseggio) in the 19th century and now hosts art and cultural events and exhibitions throughout the year. Inside, it's an intriuging place to explore, its higgledy-piggledy layout and low ceiling'd rooms connected by narrow staircases and stone archways. Climb to the top for some wonderful views from the openair courtyard. Music concerts are held in the courtyard throughout July and August. Sangri and Chalki are close by. Church of St Georgios Diassoritis, Chalki, Naxos In its heyday in the 11th century, this church would have been one of the most important religious centres in the region. It's a ten-minute walk from the historic centre of Chalki (it's not well signposted so you may find yourself asking for directions several times along the way) but it's definitely worth the trip. Hidden amongst a sea of gnarly ancient olive groves, the Byzantine church is a rare example of 'cross-in-square' type of church architecture. Inside, the walls are decorated from top to bottom in a stunning series of frescoes depicting the Annunciation, the Nativity and the Ascension – not all are clearly visible in the semi-darkness, but this only adds to the charm. A enthusiastic group of volunteers is on hand with information leaflets. Cultural Sites Eggares Olive Press Museum, Naxos The importance of the humble olive tree in Greek culture cannot be overstated. In Naxos alone there are 90 surviving olive presses, though none are in operation today. One example is found in the tiny village of Eggares, now a little museum giving a fascinating insight into the life and history of the Lianos family who pressed olives here between 1840-1967. Bubbly Nikoleta will show you round the mini museum (just two innterconnecting rooms) and demonstrate how the olives were once pressed, separated, bottled and stored, all the machinery still in situ; she clearly loves showing off her family's heritage and brings the whole experience to life. The family continues to produce olive oil from the original trees surrounding the museum (some are 120 years old) and you can stock up on products, from soap and smellies to oils, tapanades and beautiful olivewood kitchenware, in the little shop. Don't leave without a tasting or two. Manolis Lybertas’s Pottery Workshop Manolis is the fourth generations of potters here at this pottery studio and workshop in the heart of Naxos. Enter a room full to bursting with colourful ceramic wares: pots and jugs, mugs and statues, beads and bowls; it's a wonderful place to wander around. Watch Manolis in action – it's a fascinating, mesmerising experience watching a potter at work, making it look effortless as he chats to the crowds gathered around him. Don't leave without picking up your own momento from the shop. Vallindras Citrus Distillery, Chalki, Naxos Five generations later, the Vallindras family are still producing 'Kitron', a liqueur made from the fruit and leaves of the citron tree (a larger version of the lemon tree) which is unique to Naxos. The distillery is still in operation but part of the building is now a museum, giving visitors an insight into how the liqueur is produced. You can join a tour (all staff are family members) and learn about the processes involved, and end with a tasting or two of the secret family recipe, which has been distilled in the same way since its creation in 1896. Museums of Folklore, Archaeology and Natural History, Apiranthos, Naxos The village of Apiranthos, in the very centre of Naxos, has an impressive number of museums to its name. The wonderful Folklore Museum, located in a traditional house in the old market quarter, is a treasure trove of artefacts documenting the historical past of Naxos, giving visitors a fascinating insight into the local traditions of weaving, bee keeping and cheese making. The Archaeological Museum, well worth a visit, is stuffed full of Cycladic statues and other treasures dating from the Neolithc period. The compact Natural History Museum has a fascinating collection of shells, dolphin skeletons, whale bones and some intriguing, if rather gruesome, specimens floating in glass jars. For information on where to stay nearby, places to find local food and drink and low impact activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos and the Small Cyclades

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades, here's our pick of places to eat. Naxos' surprisingly green valleys, misty mountains, natural springs and meandering rivers make the island one of the most fertile in Greece. Thyme honey, throumpa olives, a whole host of soft, velvety cheeses, and citron liqueur are just some of the produce unique to the island. The Small Cycladic islands have a similarly rich food culture. Make sure you try the local fava – yellow split peas – of Schinoussa and xerotigana – fried dough strips with honey – of Koufonisi. Be tempted by dishes such as cuttlefish flavoured with oregano, crispy pies stuffed with vlita (wild greens) and Naxian cheeses, Patatato – wild goat stew – as tender as slow-cooked lamb and flavoured with cinnamon, and puddings like caramalised quince served with gooey kaimaki – a Turkish-inspired ice cream, all of which can be found at this collection of lively restaurants across Naxos and the Small Cyclades Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Naxos & the Small Cyclades Mitsos Taverna, Donousa, Small Cyclades, Greece Moor your boat in the bay then cool off on the bamboo-shaded terrace of this pretty family-run taverna. Bowls of salt-dried Throubes olives arrive on your table before you've even had time to digest the menu. Everything's grown here on site. Herbs – picked along the lanes – flavour family recipes: there's cuttlefish with oregano, cinammon and tomatoes, vlitta (tasty greens which grow wild throughout the island) with mint and lemon. The family's version of the popular Greek Potatatas (wild goat casserole) has been passed down from grandmother Fani, who, at 86 years young, still rules the roost round here. Round it off with some caramelised quince and kaimaki – a buttery, vanilla-flavoured ice cream with a meringue-like chewyness in the middle. Yazoo Summer Bliss, Naxos, Greece Forget feta salads, mousaka and fried calamari – the menu at this beachside restaurant will blow your idea of Greek cuisine clean out the water. Giorgos, who hails from Crete, has created a fusion of rich and tangy Naxian and Cretan flavours: try the apaki (pork) salad with Xinomyzithra cheese (half goat's, half sheep's cheese) infused in 20 different Greek herbs and doused in an orange vinaigrette, or the super-succulent 11-hour pork, which literally melts in the mouth. The homemade Sioufihta, a type of Cretan pasta, is cooked with black truffle and served in a clever paper parcel which keeps it gently cooking on the way to your table. You'll only find Greek varieties on the wine list. A beautiful setting too – bleeched floorboards, wicker lanterns hanging from trees, well-positioned tables and comfy sofas for gazing out at the windsurfers on the water. yazoo.gr Kedros Beach Bar, Donousa, Small Cyclades, Greece A lavender-lined path leads from the golden sweep of Kedros beach to this laid-back beach bar, created by two brothers in 2002. Here, sandy-footed souls laze in stripy deckchairs on the shady terrace sipping refreshing iced teas flavoured with aloe vera (the brothers have an aloe vera plantation on site) and tucking into fish dishes and salads packed with ingredients plucked straight from the organic allotment behind the café; the 'Garden' salad uses beans, courgettes and creamy mizithra cheese, a Naxian favourite. At night, the place is transformed into a chillout bar, festooned with strings of fairy lights and serving a temping selection of cocktails, with regular music evenings and DJs playing throughout the summer. Free camping is available on a site behind the beach. Kori Tou Michali, Donousa, Small Cyclades, Greece High up above Mersini (walk up from the beach if you fancy the challenge), this restaurant serves wonderful Greek food with a slightly experimental touch. This is very much a family business – Koula will happily spend time with you going through all the dishes on offer, hand-written on a small menu. Your best bet is to ask her to bring you her recommendations. Expect huge platters heaving with delicious local ingreidients, slow-cooked goat that falls off the bone and tempting desserts. Sweet Bar Deli, Schinoussa, Small Cyclades, Greece This bright and breezy place in Schinoussa Town has a fantastic menu featuring fava (locally grown beans) cooked a variety of ways and lots of other dishes inspired by local ingredients, such as grilled squid and four-hour pork with lemon and thyme. The restaurant opens onto a lovely terrace with great views out across the Aegean. Irini's, Naxos, Greece Just off the busy quay in Naxos Town, Irini's is a popular, welcoming family-run taverna with checked tablecloths and vines strewn across the ceiling. The huge menu (don't worry, Giorgos is on hand to recommend) features lots of traditional Greek dishes, such mousaka and stuffed aubergines, and plenty of Naxian dishes, too: the crisp pastry rolls stuffed with Naxian goats' cheese are delicious, as are the spicy meatballs. A great spot for watching boats coming in and out of the port. Gianni's, Naxos, Greece In the centre of historic Halki with its narrow winding streets lined with charming shops and galleries is this lovely family-run taverna, a favourite amongst locals and visitors alike who take shade on the the cool, vine-draped terrace. The outdoor spit turns from dawn til dusk, roasting an array of delicious things to eat over hot coals: try the popular chicken souvlaki, local village sausages or kontosouvli – succulent crispy barbecued pork. Vegetarians will love the pies – the courgette pie, a family recipe, oozes with creamy feta. Friendly staff and generous portions. Platia, Naxos, Greece Ask Andriana to show you her allotment: it's a wonderful, vibrant place of fruit and olive trees, neat rows of vegetables and colourful pots of herbs. Needless to say, everything that appears on the menu comes straight from here, and herbs feature heavily in the dishes: mint, basil, thyme, oregano. It's a family business and each member plays their part. Andriana and daughter Voula run the show, rustling up delicious, home-cooked food such as soutzoukakia (meatballs with parsely and lemon), and onions stuffed with mince and xynomyzithra cheese (a fresh batch of cheese is made each morning). Grandfather Manolis makes wine and raki. Apostolis, Naxos, Greece The tight and winding alleyways of Naxos Old Town open out onto this pretty little courtyard restaurant, with its neat tables and comfy seating for lazy lunches. The 'Apostolis' salad is a new take on a traditional Greek salad, the ingredients of which are placed into a hollowed out round loaf. Oi Atairiastoi, Koufonissi, Small Cyclades, Greece Head up from the main beach towards the windmill to this sweet place dotted with palm trees with bright, multicoloured tables and chairs and quiet, softly-lit corners. Food here is some of the best on Koufonissi: feta baked in honey and sesame, tasty fish soup, homemade breads and, reportedly, the best raki on the island. The lovely staff are attentive without being intrusive. Great value for money, too. Deoudas, Naxos You won't be able to walk past this popular, family-friendly taverna without stopping to admire the fresh fish on display or exchange a few words with the friendly waiters. Right on the front, a stone's throw from the harbour and Portara, Deoudas serves a great range of perfectly-cooked fish dishes – calamari, octopus, salt-dried gouna, baracouda, red snapper. Huge salads and tasty starters include fava dip – a local speciality – marinated anchovies and crunchy whitebait. A great wine list, too – many of the bottles on offer are from vineyards on the island. Hara's Cafe-Bar, Schinoussa This lively, colourful café-bar in the heart of the island serves delicious freshly-squeezed fruit juices as well as a range of tasty light bites, including crepes, waffles and breakfasts. For ideas of local food and drink, visitor attractions and outdoor activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades

Florence Fortnam explores the archipelago by boat, mountain bike and kayak "Remember, the slower you go, the more likely it is you'll fall off," said Themis as our bikes approached the rocky pathway up to the trio of abandoned windmills at the top of Vivlos, a village about 10km southeast of Naxos Town. "Lean right over the handlebars but don't put too much pressure on them," Themis shouted after me as I negotiated the tricky ascent. Ten minutes and three attempts later, I had made it to the top and sat on a crumbling doorstep of one of the windmills to catch my breath, knees and elbows graze-free, feeling ever so slightly pleased with myself. I’d call myself a fairly proficient cyclist and am never happier than when peddling around on my road bike but I have to admit that mountain biking is something that had slipped, perhaps intentionally, under my radar. Until today, that is. I had joined Themis Vlissidis from Flisvos Sports Club on St George's Beach in Naxos for a two-wheeled trek into the heart of the island to see what the interior had to offer from the saddle. We’d barely left the sports centre and I was already appreciating the reassuringly fat tyres spinning below me as we made our way down sandy tracks, uneven roads and across rocky terrain, stopping every so often so I could pick up a few tips from Themis (stay relaxed, stay light) or admire a view. We weaved through little villages – all whitewashed and blue – and down alleyways barely wider than our handlebars. We bounced down bumpy country roads, spotting distant domed churches and grazing livestock, before an exhilarating descent back to the water's edge two hours later. Think of outdoor activities in Greece and images of snorkelling in turquoise seas, tranquil boat trips and bombing around in banana boats probably pop into your head. What probably doesn't come to mind is getting sweaty and caked in dirt on a mountain biking adventure. But I hadn't enjoyed a new sport so much in ages, and the dip in the sea at the end had never felt so good – or so deserved. One of the charms of Naxos and the Small Cyclades is that good old-fashioned island hopping is the only way to get around the archipelago. The lack of airports has meant the islands have escaped the package-tour-and-boutique-hotel syndrome that has affected other Greek islands – good news if your idea of a perfect Greek holiday involves wallowing in the warm waters of your own secluded bays. With this in mind, I jumped on a boat in Donousa – one of the four inhabited islands which make up the Small Cyclades – for a trip around the coast. Life in Donousa runs at its own gentle pace. There are no schedules or timetables here: the boat goes when it’s full (a good excuse for us to grab a coffee at the harbour beforehand), but it wasn’t long before we were speeding off around the headland to the next bay. “Look, ospreys!” Loukas, our guide, gestured to the majestic birds spiralling around the clifftops above us as we glided towards the sea caves of Fokospilia. Once the hideaway for pirates and, more recently, a colony of seals (Fokospilia means 'cave of seals'), the sea caves are carpeted in coral which glows emerald green when the sunlight catches it. We spent the afternoon dipping in and out of bays, jumping overboard into the crystal clear sea, wading through warm waters to tavernas set back from the beach where we feasted on roasted sea bass stuffed with herbs, colourful salads and tangy cheeses. In the summer months, the Aegean's northerly wind phenomenon – the meltemia – whistles through the islands. If you're a lover of watersports, this means a strong steady wind from May to September. Naxos is fast becoming one of the go-to places to wind- and kitesurfing. It’s 91km of pristine sandy beaches which gently shelve into shallow waters are ideal conditions to learn the sports – or hone existing skills. Windsurfers will have a hard time resisting the urge to take to the water along popular Plaka beach, renowned for its flat, aquamarine waters. But if you want to delve even deeper into the hidden caves and coves of the islands, the best way to do it is by kayak, and the calm, tranquil waters of Schinoussa are perfect sea kayaking territory. The friendly bunch at WayOut Adventure offer sea kayaking trips around some of the island’s most beautiful spots and can tailor their trips to suit all ages and abilities. As we paddled out to sea, nothing, I decided, beats gliding silently through the water on a kayak. Gently rocking from side to side, the trickle of water as the paddle leaves the sea and the squarks from seabirds overhead were the only noises to disturb the peace. Words by Florence Fortnam == Disclosure: Florence's trip to Naxos and the Small Cyclades was organised by the Greek National Tourism Organisation Board (GNTO UK & Ireland) as part of Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos and the Small Cyclades. Florence has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Naxos and the Small Cyclades this year. All opinions are the author’s own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Lesvos & Chios, here's our pick of characterful places to stay. On Lesvos there are a host of charming places to stay on the coast - we recommend waking up to a welcoming view of the Aegean at Hotel Votsala and heading out for a morning dip before coffee and pastries served by the beach. Or if you'd rather get lost in the hills, discover Toumba eco-farm tucked away in the middle of the island that’s a haven for hikers and horse riders. Chios' walled medieval villages have to be seen to be believed and beg to be explored for longer than just a day, so we've picked places where you can bed down in lovingly restored cottages within the fortified walls of quaint, maze-like communities. Then head to the cool citrus glades of Kampos to stay in a luxurious old manor house-turned-hotel and experience how the Chiot gentry once lived. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Lesvos & Chios: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay Lesvos & Chios Hotel Galini, Lesvos, Greece A chilled-out little hotel down a quiet side street in town. Galini's rooms are clean and airy, with balconies looking out over the streets. The best bit of a stay here is a chat with charming owner Fani, a font of local knowledge. hotelgalini-lesvos.gr/el Votsala Hotel, Thermi, Lesvos This colourful, friendly hotel is made up of blocks of apartments facing out to the sea, but it doesn't feel too big or busy - the abundance of flowers dotted about the grounds make a stay here feel like ambling about in someone's garden. votsalahotel.com Sunrise Hotel, Molyvos, Lesvos Sunrise's blindingly white apartments are terraced on a gentle slope which looks down over the deep blue Aegean sea and across to the valley of Eftalou. Everything's big at Sunrise, from the beds and the azure swimming pool to the breakfast buffet. sunrisehotel-lesvos.com Archontiko Petras 1821, Lesvos, Greece We love Archontiko's cosy, romantic rooms, and the location of the old-fashioned hotel is just as special - right in the middle of stunning Petra, a stay here combines the buzz of a town location with easy-going beach life as the coast is next door. archontikopetras.gr Art Lesvos Villas, Mytiline, Lesvos Modern meets classic in these cheerful holiday homes, with bright red roofs and primary-coloured shutters. A great choice for families, and an easy base for exploring the island. We love the hamper of loca produce waiting on arrival. art-lesvosvillas.gr Hotel Pearl Bay, Chios, Greece Pearl Bay is a complex of modern, smart apartment-style rooms arranged around a beautiful swimming pool, across the road from pretty Daskalopetra beach. If you want to be a stone's throw from the coast, this is a great choice. pearlbay.gr Spitakia Houses, Chios, Greece The literal translation of Spitakia is 'little houses', and these charming, beautifully restored cottages dotted about in Avgonima, one of Chios' laid-back medieval villages, are cosy homes from home. spitakia.gr For ideas of local food and drink, visitor attractions and outdoor activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Lesvos & Chios

As we celebrate our Greentraveller's Guide to Lesvos and Chios, Sian Lewis explores the lush valleys and inviting coastline of Lesvos on foot, by bike and on horseback. Lesvos is an island of contrasting landscapes. Venture into its heart and you'll find groves of olive trees, sleepy villages, medieval castles and hot springs. Meanwhile the rocky fringes of this gem in the North Aegean are a wild swimmer's dream, where you can leap off rocks into warm, crystal-clear water and spot a rainbow of fish flitting past in the day and the glimmer of phosphorescense around you at night. I spent a few days exploring this outdoors-lover's haven on foot, on horseback and by bike. Greentraveller's video about the islands of Lesvos and Chios: Lesvos is pretty big - the third largest of the Greek islands - so travelling by two wheels is a great way to see more of it. And its lush valleys, steep hills and woodland trails make the perfect terrain for mountain biking, says Titos Chatlezis. He and his family run Lesvos Ride, a new company aiming to share their love of cycling with visitors to the island. We met Tito in the countryside near Molyvos, where he told me tales of his years biking around the world before concluding that "Lesvos is definitelythe best place to mountain bike in Europe". And he may be right - over 280km of paths zig-zag over the island, and Lesvos Ride can take everyone from complete beginners to seasoned pros out to explore them. After a gentle cycle in the hills the Chatzelis brothers took us on a rather different tour - we swapped the outdoors for the teeth-jolting cobbled streets of Molyvos. The narrow alleyways and steep steps of this charming town make for an urban playground for experienced mountain bikers. We definitely startled a few cats as we careened round corners, although the ladies we came across sitting in doorways making orzo pasta didn't look particularly impressed. Off the bike and onto a different kind of saddle - we spent the next afternoon on horseback with Rita Michalaki, who takes riders out on her quiet horses on trails that meander through some of the island's most beautiful spots. Rita offers day-long treks from Molyvos to Petra or the chance to gallop wild and free along sandy Eftalou beach, but we opted for a gentle ride around a nearby reservoir, the afternoon light painting far-off Molyvos town and the surrounding hills red and gold and Rita's gorgeous Alsation, Zara, trotting behind us. There are hiking routes all over Lesvos, but perhaps the most surreal is a four-hour walk around the island's petrified forest. This UNESCO-protected site looks at first glance like a rolling hillside dotted with trees and odd stone marble columns. Look closer, I realised that the towering marble columns were actually the trunks of ancient, petrified trees, fossilized where they stand. We followed the trail around the site, coming across the bizarre remnants of the towering sequoia forest that once stood proud of the island twenty million years ago. Back when Lesvos was a tropical island one of its volcanoes erupted and spewed lava and ash, covering the forests. The ash slowly replaced organic materials in trees and plants with thermal liquid, perfectly fossilising them as beautifully coloured rock. The landscape where they stand is beautiful, too - definitely a walk to remember. But as lovely as the hills and valleys of Lesvos were to explore, it was the inviting clear blue waters that hug the coast of the island which I found impossible to resist. Often on our travels we'd often come suddenly come across the sea - looking down on it from hiking paths, spotting it sparkling in the distance from a taverna - and I was always desperate to stop for a swim. I found two favourite spots during our time on the island - one is the beachfront of the liberal and gay-friendly town Skala of Eressos, where you can shake of any inhibitions and go skinny dipping with the locals. A very invigorating way to start the morning! The other is found across the island. Aghios Isidoros beach, near Plomari, looks like a normal, pleasant beach, with a scattering of sunbathers on the sand. But when we swam out into the turquoise water we were alone, floating above the reef. The water is so clear that we didn't need goggles to spot the iridescent fish flitting around our feet, although I did find it slightly unnerving to be informed that many-tentacled octopus were probably asleep in little holes and crannies in the rocks below. I can't think of a nicer way to spend the day than floating in the water and watching the creatures of the deep. Words by Sian Lewis Details Sian cycled with Lesvos Ride, who offer a variety of tours on the island for riders of all levels, including families, with experienced cycling guides. They also organise cycling holidays and bike rental is available. Sian went riding with Ippos Ride, based near Molyvos, who organise day rides, week-long riding holidays and lessons for beginners. The Petrified Forest site is open daily and maps are available with marked hiking trails around the fossils.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos and the Small Cyclades, here's a selection of outdoor adventure activities in these beautiful islands. There's a wide range of outdoor activities throughout Naxos and the Small Cyclades. The gorgeous aquamarine sea and strong steady winds make this one of the best places in the Cyclades to get out on the water for windsurfing, kite surfing and sailing. Inland there are plenty of trails for cycling as well as marked routes for hiking. The most enjoyable way to travel around the coast of the islands is by boat, and there are plenty of boat operators that can take you to hidden coves, sea caves and inlets, and small fishing villages. Jump overboard and wade through the warm waters to pretty tavernas set back off the beach where you can feast on delicious fresh local produce. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos & the Small Cyclades: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Naxos & the Small Cyclades Walks on Naxos and the Small Cyclades Walking trails on Koufonissi, Greece Ano Koufonissi is small enough (5.7 square miles) to walk around the coast in a day – and you can reach many of the island's beautiful beaches on foot. The Municipality of Naxos and the Small Cyclades proposes a route that goes around the island from Chora to Gialos via Loutro, Parianos, Limenari, Xylobatis, Pori, Platia Pounta, Fanos, Finikas and Charakopou. Alternatively, there's an inland route from Chora to Pano Meria via Prohpitis Ilias that leads to the highest point of the interior. Walking trails on Donousa, Greece There are several established walking routes on Donoussa, most are signposted to help you find your way and enjoy wonderful views of the Aegean Sea as well as the interior, dotted with local attractions, such as villages, the remnants of age-old settlements and industry. The Municipality of Naxos and Small Cyclades proposes the following routes: Stavros-Kalotaritissa (4.4km), Kedros-Messaria (1.1km), Merssini-Livadi (0.9km), Kedros-Kato Mylos (1.8km), and Stavros-Limni-Aspros Cavos (2.1km). Hiking on Iraklia, Greece One of the charms of walking on the island of Iraklia is that as well as the superb views, you are likely to spot rare birds as the island is part of the Nature 2000 network of natural habitats. There are several marked trails across the island, the loveliest of which are in the southern part of the island. The longest hike that you can do on the island follows a route to the stalactite-studded cave church of Agios Ioànnis, possibly one of the most beautiful caves in Greece. Another follows a coastal Cycling on Naxos and the Small Cyclades Flisvos Sports Club, Naxos, Greece Windsurfing and watersports centre with beach café, seaside studios and apartments conveniently located to the south of the main town of Naxos. As well as windsurfing boards and sails for hire, there are mountain bikes (you can also hire an experienced mountain bike guide to take you to some of the best places for cycling on the island as well as show you the best of the local sights), beach volleyball, catamaran sailing tours and lessons, as well as kite surfing at its Flisvos Kite centre Mikri Vigla. Thoosa Rent-a-Bike, Koufonissi, Greece This local bike hire place on the island of Koufonissi rents out bikes by the hour, day, or for longer spells. Set right by the beach and harbour on this Small Cycladic island, the friendly outlet have a range of bikes, from mountain bikes to road bikes, as well as bikes for children. The island is a fantastic place to explore in the saddle; at just 6km long, you can visit the whole island in a day, whilst the reasonably good roads shouldn't prove too tricky for the average cyclist. There are some more taxing trails into the interior of the island for those after something a little more challenging. Watersports on Naxos and the Small Cyclades WayOut Adventures, Schinoussa, Greece This team of friends behind this outdoor activity provider will take you on a tour of Schinoussa's pristine waters by kayak, hiking into the remote hills, stand-up paddle boarding along some if the island's picture-perfect coastline, or on a climbing adventure further inland. Plaka Watersports, Naxos, Greece Windsurfers will have a hard time resisting the urge to take to the water along popular Plaka beach, renowned for its flat waters, steady winds and aquamarine waters. The friendly, professional guys here will set you up with all the equipment you need, whether you're a pro or new to the sport. They also run a series of courses to suit all ages and abilities, from private 1-2-1 training to group lessons. They also hold waterskiiing and wakeboarding lessons, and kids can have fun messing about on the water in a banana boat or tube. Kick back in the super cool chillout bar afterwards with a cocktail or tasty burger. Donoussa Magissa Boat Trip, Donousa, Greece Charming Loukas has been running boat trips from the harbour at Donousa for over ten years. He and his small crew follow the island's coast, stopping off at beautiful beaches, coves and villages along the way – you can hop off at any time, and there are plenty of opportunities to leap overboard in to the clear, warm waters. Loukas will regale you with intriguing seafaring tales, such as the pirates who inhabited the sea caves to escape their enemies (the boat stops here for a swim), and is a font of knowledge on the history of the island – he's lived here for most of his life. Island hopping around the Small Cyclades One of the joys of visiting the Small Cyclades is that, due to the happy fact that there are no airports servicing them, good old-fashioned island hopping is the only way to get around the archipelago. There are regular ferry crossing between the islands but the best way to see them by far is to join a small boat stationed at harbours across the islands. The islands are all within a few kilometres of each – except Donousa which is flung out further north – making this an easy way to visit the archipelago on daily boat tours. For more information on nearby characterful places to stay, where to find local food and drink, and local attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos and the Small Cyclades

Florence Fortnam discovers some of the islands' finest wild ingredients – from mountain goat to thyme honey – and learns some of the secrets behind the islands’ tasty local produce. From our boat, we watched a small herd of goats bound fearlessly down the rippling cliffs to the sea. ’Salt water – eugh!’, I cried, as they began lapping thirstily at the water’s edge. “Natural seasoning!’ our guide, Loukas, said with a wink. Wild goat, he went on to explain, has been one of the staples of the diet in Naxos and the Small Cyclades for millennia. You find it on every menu – baked in crispy pies with vlita (spinach-like greens that grow wild across the islands), braised in stews with the famous Naxian potato, cooked with tomatoes and cinnamon, or steeped in thyme honey (a speciality of neighbouring Iraklia) and roasted on an open flame. It hadn’t been long since I’d filled my belly with breakfast but I couldn’t help my mind wandering to thoughts of lunch. I was on Donousa – one of the four inhabited Small Cyclades islands, ten miles east of Naxos – on the first day of my gastronomic discovery of Naxos and the Small Cyclades, delving into the food culture of the islands to uncover some of this archipelago's wild and wonderful produce. As we rounded a clutch of jagged rocks jutting out into the aquamarine sea, a green cliff face came into view, an unexpected sight on an otherwise rocky, shrubby island. This verdant, vertiginous valley, Loukas explained, was home to a number of natural springs, the secret behind the island's productivity, he claimed. "Our very own little oasis,” he said. “Apricots, figs, lemons, almonds, pears, plums, grapes, oranges – they all grow here.” As we drifted closer, I could just make out the tiny colourful flecks of early fruit amongst the leafy trees. Half an hour later our boat moored in the glassy bay at Kalotaritissa and we climbed the rough path to the bamboo-shaded terrace of the family-run Mitsos taverna. Bowls of salt-dried throubesolives (the black, wrinkly kind) and hunks of poppy seed bread arrived on our table before we'd even had time to digest the menu. Many of the family recipes have been passed down from the indomitable grandmother Fani, who, at 86 years young, still rules the roost around here. Like almost every rural taverna across the Cyclades, everything is either grown here on site, gathered locally or caught in the bay. Herbs – picked along the lanes – flavour family recipes: there's cuttlefish with oregano, cinnamon and tomatoes, tasty vlita with mint and lemon, huge salads topped with scoops of soft, velvety, basil-flecked feta. "Bit different to the sort you're used to, hey?" Loukas joked, as images of the vacuum-packed rectangles of rubber cheese we call feta popped into my head. Lunch was rounded off with some caramelised quince and kaimaki – a buttery, vanilla-flavoured ice cream with a meringue-like gooeyness in the middle. This was followed by a shot of brain-tingling raki, accompanied, as always, by an enthusiastic 'yamas!' (‘cheers'). Naxos produces some of Greece’s best-known cheeses, a culture attributed in part to the Greek myth that Apollo's son and cheese maker extraordinaire, Aristaios, supposedly grew up on the island. There's the rich, creamy and slightly sour Xynomyzithra, buttery Graviera, sweet Mizithra, and spicy Arseniko, to name a few. To find out more, I headed to a cheese-making farm in Agiassos on the south of the island where, with an 800-strong herd of goats, Stelios and his family produce one of the island’s favourite cheeses – a tangy, award-winning Mizithra. After a quick tour of the production room, I followed Stelios out to meet the rest of the workforce. I could hear them before I could see them – each goat, he explained, has a different sounding bell, and he can recognise each individual one. As he opened the gate, the goats stampeded into the surrounding heather-studded valleys (their diet of wild flowers and shrubs is the secret to their success, so Stelios claims), which was one of the most awesome, dramatic sights of the trip. My ears were ringing with the sound of 800 goats bells for the rest of the day. Naxos is a surprisingly lush island, with hidden green valleys, natural springs, misty mountains and a higher than average rainfall. This fertile environment has allowed it to be self-sufficient since ancient times, producing its own meat, unique cheeses, vegetables, fruit, herbs, honey and wine – you name it, they produce it. I wasn’t surprised to learn that Dionysus, the Greek god of winemaking and fertility, was supposedly born here, too. Evidence of its agricultural roots – past and present – is everywhere, from the now derelict windmills perched on hilltops and the flocks of sheep and goats that graze freely on open plateaus, to the agricultural terraces, carved deep into cliff faces along the coast. Later that evening we tucked into patatato, a slow-cooked casserole of wild goat and the famous Naxian potato. The meat was tender like slow-cooked lamb – and beautifully seasoned, naturally. Words by Florence Fortnam == Disclosure: Florence's trip to Naxos and the Small Cyclades was organised by the Greek National Tourism Organisation Board (GNTO UK & Ireland) as part of Green Traveller's Guide to Naxos and the Small Cyclades. Florence has full editorial control of the review, which is written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Naxos and the Small Cyclades this year. All opinions are the author’s own.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion, Clare Hargreaves picks out a selection of places to eat selling locally produced seasonal food. Photos: Richard Hammond and Clare Hargreaves The joy of a peninsula, with both mountain and coastline, is the diversity of its seasonal food larder. Settle into a seafront taverna and pair your tsipouro (Greek grappa) with mezedes of grilled octopus, pickled rock samphire or deep-fried sea anenome. Venture inland and savour everything from wild greens to apples, chestnuts and wild boar. You’ll also find the ingredients - green peppers, tomatoes and sausage - for Pelion’s most famous dish, spetzofai. Most of Pelion’s restaurants are relaxed family-run affairs, often in the enchanting setting of a cobbled village square. But if it’s table-clothed gastronomy you’re seeking, Pelion offers that too. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Pelion: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Pelion Kritsa, Portaria Sit outside in the square or grab a seat indoors by the neo-classical Egyptian-style fireplace. Either way, you’re in for a treat: Kritsa is one of Pelion’s most convivial eateries, offering seriously delicious rustic fare with some of the region’s best organic wines to boot. It’s run by Eleni Karaiskou and her extended family, with many ingredients hailing from their farm where Eleni also runs a cookery school. Specialities range from simple Foraged greens with eggs to hearty renditions of Pelion classics like spetzofai and strapatsada. To sample the belter breakfasts, book into one of the seven rooms upstairs. hotel-kritsa.gr and peliongastronomy.gr Aleka’s House, Tsagarada In spring, you’ll find wild asparagus and in autumn, stuffed mushrooms or locally foraged sweet chestnuts that accompany chef Theodoros Tzembetzis’ aromatic slow-cooked veal. This congenial restaurant-cafe, on Tsgarada’s main street, is firmly rooted in the seasons and local soil. Like Kritsa, it’s a family business, set up by the parents of Theodoros’ wife Eleni who still help out by making savoury pies and puddings from local ingredients. Also try the imaginative salads, as well as the knockout kokoras me xilopites (chicken with homemade tagliatelle). There’s a cafe next door and upstairs, ten simple bedrooms too. alekas-house.gr Aggelika, Milopotamo Given its panoramic views over one of Pelion’s most spectacular beaches, it’s no surprise that seafood - from squid and octopus to anchovies and bream - is the centrepiece at this recently expanded clifftop glass-framed restaurant. It’s caught by the father of Aggelika who runs it, so dishes, such as the taverna’s famous fish soup, revolve around whatever fish he’s landed that day. But it’s not just fish that hits the mark here; starters such as the grilled aubergine with feta, tomatoes and parsley, or the innovative politikisalata - made from dill, grated cabbage and carrot - are equally delicious. aggelikapelion.gr Six Keys, Afyssos Expect high-end gastronomy at this beachside restaurant attached to a luxury seven-room guesthouse. Ingredients are as home-grown as anywhere else, but, under the guidance of Athenian superchef Giannis Baxevanis, they are transformed into cutting edge dishes. You might start with fish carpaccio with sea fennel and aged tsipouro, followed with a Spetzofai tagliatelle with fried mizithra cheese and peppers - a twist on Pelion’s spetzofai. Grab a verandah seat and watch the sunset as you feast. sixkeys.gr Salkimi taverna, Milies At this roadside taverna opposite Milia’s main square, there are traditional Pelion favourites, such as rooster cooked in wine to boubari (intestines stuffed with mince and rice), but its speciality is its hearty stews slow-cooked in whopper earthenware pots; try the Giulbasi (kid goat, veal and pork stewed with tomato, peppers and garlic) or the Salkimi, a stew of veal, courgettes, aubergines and peppers that’s topped with bechamel sauce and cheese and grilled. Kardamo, Makrinitsa The views from this bijou restaurant (whose name means cardamom) near Makrinitsa’s dreamy square are as good as the food. In the evening, sit out on the balcony and watch the flickering lights of Volos below as you tuck into specialities such as aubergine and veal stew or rooster with homemade pasta. In autumn, snuggle by the fire in its artefact-decked interior and enjoy foraged mushrooms or giant beans with lemon sauce - a nice twist on the usual gigantes in a tomato sauce. It’s all so hearty and friendly you could almost be in the owner’s home. restaurantkardamo.business.site (greek only) Archipelagos Ouzeri, Volos Pelion’s communal tipple is tsipouro, a firewater made from the grape skins after they’ve been pressed to make wine, and it’s served in tavernas known as tsipouradika. At Archipelagos, on Volos’ harbour-front, as in other tsipouradika, each diddy 50ml bottle (choose with or without aniseed) brings a different plate of home-cooked food. As you’d expect, most revolve around seafood, such as mussel risotto, deep-fried sea anemone, or grilled octopus. But the pickled kritamo (rock samphire), fried aubergine and salad dishes are equally delicious. archipelagos.com Y Drosia, Pinacates Traditional family-run taverna, serving simple fare with lashings of atmosphere in an unspoiled mountain village. Sit at one of the check-tableclothed tables on the tree-shaded terrace and gaze out over the Pagasitic Gulf below, or if it’s chilly, snuggle by the hearth inside. Food is mainly home-grown or in the case of meat, from local free-range farms, and even the tsipouro and wines are homemade too. There’s a wide range of starters (such as grilled sardines with green beans), while mains tend to be roasts or grills, generally of goat, veal or lamb. Anna Na Ena Milo bar, Milies The name of this bar (meaning “Anna, here’s an apple”) comes from a phrase taught to all Greek school children to teach them their alphabet. But there’s nothing elementary about this cosy roadside cafe-bar, just off the square of the mountain village of Milies, that’s probably as close as Pelion gets to hipster. Enjoy the colourful prints and posters plastering the walls as you sample a Greek coffee served from a traditional copper pot, or one of its homemade desserts (the lemon mousse and the cheesecake get our vote). A great place for people watching. Meintani, Zagora Field to fork eating doesn’t get much better than at this flower-draped neighbourhood eatery, known by the locals as Niki’s after its motherly owner. Niki grows much of her own produce, from the courgette flowers and cabbage leaves that she stuffs, to the tomatoes that she grates into her spetzofai. Goat and wild boar are slowly braised with oil and garlic until meltingly tender, while dessert is likely to revolve around the local firiki apple for which Zagora is famous. Sit on the verandah for views of the turquoise Aegean below or inside to watch the village goings-on. meintani.gr Taverna Karagatsi, Damouhari The tiny postcard-perfect port of Damouhari, with its ancient Venetian architecture, leapt to fame after being chosen as the location where Mamma Mia was filmed. Thankfully it’s still a tranquil spot populated by self-catering cottages and a handful of tavernas from which Karagatsi stands out. Personable chef-owner Apostolis serves up wonderful Pelion staples but fresh fish is the must-eat, along with tasty mezedes such as homemade taramosalata. Watch the skies turn crimson over neighbouring Alonissos and Skiathos as you dine.