As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of walking, cycling, wildlife watching and family fun in this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the Yorkshire Dales. Getting out and about on foot in the AONB is, of course, one of the best ways of exploring the landscape and there are so many options whatever your ability (or desire!), from simple strolls to more demanding long-distance trails. You’ll discover the history of the area as well as wildlife. Cycling is a popular pastime for visitors to the region too, with an extensive network of rights of way so you can get off the roads and into the heart of the countryside and there are routes for everyone from beginners to experienced riders. You’ll discover wildlife of all kinds – birdwatching is a particular favourite – and animal lovers shouldn’t miss the unusual opportunity to trek with a llama at Nidderdale Llamas (there’s a cute petting area too for smaller creatures). Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Activities in Nidderdale Off the rails in Settle Offers bike hire (from £20 for a day) if you want to set off on your own to explore, and self-guided or guided tours. 3peakscycles.com Dales Bike Centre Dales Bike Centre has the largest selection of mountain and road bikes in the area (from £17 a day for a hybrid bike). It also offers guided tours, whether it be for a day, a weekend or longer, and various skills courses. dalesbikecentre.co.uk Nidderdale Llamas Trekking with llamas may sound a little strange, but those who’ve done it say they make amazing walking companions! Nidderdale Llamas, based on Kilm Farm, has 19 of the furry camelids – and there’s a choice of treks, from an hour and a half jaunt to a full day eight-mile hike to Brimham Rocks (with a picnic and refreshments provided). You’ll learn all about llamas on the way, and there’s a Pet Village on the farm too where children can pet smaller animals, ponies and handle the reptile collection too. nidderdalellamas.org Studfold Trails A family favourite – this adventure nature trail is aimed at primary and pre-school aged children. Rabbit, Mole and Owl will take you and your little ones on an adventure, to learn about the area and its wildlife while you search for clues and hidden treasure – with plenty of surprises along the way. From wild flower meadows to a bird hide and a woodland area with fairy ring, it’s a beautiful place for some family fun. There are loads of activities throughout the year, so check the website for more. studfold.com For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale.

Rhiannon Batten provides a few tips for how to have an eco escape in Marseille. A city without too many airs, Marseille has a life and energy that more manicured destinations lack. The spectacular old port at its centre is surrounded by pavement cafes, restaurants and bars, and overlooked by an iconic hilltop church. Detour into the old quarter of Le Panier or the hippyish Cours Julien and you’ll find atmospheric architecture, bustling markets and some of the country’s most down-to-earth inhabitants. The city is gradually moving towards a more sustainable future. With an average of 300 days of sunshine a year, many public buildings in the city are equipped with solar panels; it is said there are more roofs will solar panels here than in any other city in France. Various eco-districts are also in development across the city, with renewable energy, greywater recycling schemes, tree planting projects and bike paths part of the plans. The most high profile of these lies within the Euroméditerranée district; a 480-hectare urban renewal project between the commercial harbour, the Vieux Port (Old Port) and the TGV station. In its northern extension offices, houses, shops and restaurants will be developed along sustainable lines to reduce energy and water consumption. The project will also see the creation of a 15-hectare green corridor, the Parc des Aygalades. Practicalities Getting there: See our guides to How to travel by train from London to Marseille (year-round) and How to travel by train from London to Marseille (direct service, summer only). Getting around the city: Marseille has an excellent public transport network. From Marseille Saint Charles train station there are trams, metro and buses that take you around the city centre and to the main harbour and port. For timetables and routes, see (French only www.rtm.fr/guide-voyageur/se-deplacer/plans. Marseille’s handy City Pass is an all-in package including free entry to many of the city's museums, a boat trip to the Château d'If, a trip on the Petit Train, reductions on certain other excursions, and unlimited travel on the buses, metro and trams. You can get one that is valid for one or two days. For more information see www.marseille-tourisme.com. From outside the station, you can pick up a bike from the city’s bike hire scheme ‘Le Vélo’, for more information, see: www.levelo-mpm.fr. Where to stay Rêve de Mouettes This chic, one-bedroom apartment, to the south of the Vieux Port, was given a comprehensive green-over in 2011 by owner Marie-Christine. Walls were decorated with lime paints flecked with natural pigments, a low-flush toilet and shower were installed and A-rated appliances were fitted. Ecological cleaning products are used throughout and guests can indulge in both organic toiletries and organic breakfasts, the latter sourced from farmers in the nearby Luberon. But a stay here is as much about enjoying the apartment’s calm and peaceful atmosphere as the facilities. 73 Rue du Docteur Fiolle (+33 (0)6 59 99 31 47; www.revedemouettes.com). Radisson Blu Proudly possessing Green Key certification since 2008, the four-star Radisson Blu sits right by the water’s edge, on the Vieux Port’s southern quayside. A classy and contemporary bolthole that’s ideal for guests looking for luxury and high standards of service without going for all-out bling, facilities here include a restaurant, café, outdoor pool and access to a nearby spa. Like most of the brand’s sister properties it also subscribes to a corporate environmental responsibility policy. Its 189-rooms have low energy lightbulbs and water-efficient showerheads and the hotel is committed to using suppliers that comply with environmental and ethical standards. 38-40 Quai de Rive Neuve (+33 (0)4 88 92 19 50; www.radissonblu.com). Doubles from €147, room only. Homestay If you want to see Marseille like a local, why not stay with one? A run of smart new websites advertising rooms or private apartments to rent has seen a resurgence in the homestay market over the past few years and, with a recent report suggesting that the average homestay is 80% greener than a hotel stay, it’s an eco-friendly option too. Currently on the books at Airbnb is a smart double room in an apartment in Marseille’s bohemian Cours Julien area. It’s available to rent by the night from a young, local couple, Maxime and Gabriel, who can also give advice on where to eat and what to do in the city. Airbnb (airbnb.com/rooms/219263). Le Gite du Lievre de Mars A light, bright two-bedroom property in the central Canebière area with wooden doors and original tiled floors the “March Hare’s” self-catering apartment does more than just nod to green living with natural paintwork, an organic welcome pack, recycling facilities and organic cotton linen. The catch? It’s on the fourth floor and there’s no lift. For those willing - and able - to tackle the stairs the reward is a small balcony, from where you can sit and soak up rooftop views of the city while you get your breath back. 26 rue Adolphe Thiers (+33 (0)6 87 47 02 70; www.legitedulievredemars.wordpress.com). Villa Massalia A popular option among travellers who want to mix city and seaside, this four-star, 140-room hotel is around four kilometres south of the centre of Marseille, close to the beach and the Parc Borély. Buses or a “Le Velo” public bike will get you from the hotel to the centre of Marseille reasonably easily and the hotel is making impressive progress on the road to sustainability, with services such as the use of organic produce and local suppliers, motion sensor lighting and low-flow toilets and showers. 17 Place Louis Bonnefon (+33 (0)4 91 72 90 00; legitedulievredemars.wordpress.com). Where to eat and drink Green Bear Coffee A small cafe, just south of the Vieux Port, Green Bear is cosy and environmentally conscious in equal parts. Inspired by New York’s sandwich bars, the menu ranges from sandwiches, soups, salads and cakes to coffees, juices and smoothies - all of it 100% organic and homemade. There’s also a daily lunchtime special, from pumpkin tagine to mushroom risotto. When the sun is shining you’ll need to get there early to grab one of the café’s pretty outdoor tables. 17 rue Glandevès (+33 (0)4 91 04 06 91; www.greenbearcoffee.com). La Passarelle Opinion is split on this Vieux Port restaurant. While no one would quibble with the setting – in summer, especially, its outdoor terrace is a magical dining room, with colourful, mismatched tables looking straight onto the restaurant’s kitchen garden – the infamously slow service disappoints some visitors. The food, however, is extremely fresh; what they can’t grow themselves the owners buy in from local organic farmers. Sensibly they don’t mess around with the produce but let the ingredients’ natural flavours shine, with dishes such as herbed organic pork, duck with apple and salads dressed simply with sea salt, lemon juice and olive oil. 52 rue Plan Fourmiguier (+33 (0)4 91 33 03 27; www.restaurantlapassarelle.fr). L’Eléphant Rose à Pois Blancs The “Pink Elephant with White Polka Dots” serves up a popular range of soups, salads and afternoon teas but the real reason to come to this pastel-coloured pitstop in the Cours Julien area is for its ice creams and sorbets, many of which are organic and made with fruits bought at the local market. Choose from strawberry, peach, lavender, apricot or more unusual flavours such as thyme, liquorice or speculoos. 3 rue des Trois Rois (+33 (0)4 91 47 34 68; www.elephantroseglacier.fr). Chez Jeannot Marseille may, famously, be the home of bouillabaisse, a rich and elaborate fish stew, but few of the city’s restaurants yet have a sustainable fish policy. If you know your non-trawled lemon sole (good to eat) from your Mediterranean swordfish (an ethical no-no), there are some fantastic local fish restaurants to choose from. Otherwise, try this homely pizzeria and seafood restaurant in the little harbour of Vallon des Auffres, a couple of kilometres from the Vieux Port. It sources its fish from Provence Aquaculture, a sustainable fish farm just along the coast. 129 Vallon des Auffes (+33 (0)4 91 52 11 28; www.pizzeriachezjeannot.com). Healthy fast food Marseille’s fine dining restaurants have been surprisingly slow on the uptake when it comes to serving seasonal, local and organic food. Instead, fuel up at lunchtime at one of the new breed of healthy fast food outlets that are taking the city by storm. Three of the best are Pick Me Up, a vegetarian Slow Food café specialising in soups, savoury tarts, yoghurts and desserts, Spok, which serves “creative” and lovingly made soups, salads and daily specials, and Le Cours en Vert, a laid-back, organic salad bar. Pick Me Up, 5 rue de la Palud (+33 (0)6 11 56 77 07; www.pickmeup13.com); Spok, six locations across the city including 7 rue Lulli (+33 (0)4 91 55 64 24; www.spok.fr); Le Cours en Vert, 102 Cours Julien (+33 (0)6 75 06 97 90). Where to visit Hit the shops Scratch beneath the surface of what appears to be a fairly conventional high street shopping scene and Marseille has more ethical shops in which to spend your euros than first appearances suggest. Not sure where to start? Try Machja, a concept and clothing store based around the principles of “green, chic and ethical”, Alter Mundi, for responsibly sourced clothing and home furnishings, or Le Recyclodrome, which sells recycled and reconditioned furniture and more. Machja, 69 Cours Julien (+33 (0)4 95 33 83 26; www.machja.fr); Alter Mundi, 15 Boulevard Montricher (+33 (0)4 91 08 53 99; www.altermundi.com); 21 rue Chateauredon (+33 (0)9 54 24 62 46; www.recyclodrome.org) Local culture MuCEM, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, will be the city’s cultural showpiece when it opens across three sites in spring 2013. The main museum, J4, at the end of the Vieux Port, will include some innovative green architectural features, such as an air-conditioning system that uses seawater for cooling. Until then, you can get an insight into local culture from a nautical perspective through the Sea Centre. Though not a tourist attraction in its own right, the organisation is a great source of information on maritime-themed local events and cultural attractions, including regular photographic exhibitions. For more information on MuCEM see www.musee-europemediterranee.org; for the Sea Centre visit www.officedelamer.com. For more general cultural tips and news see www.marseillecityofculture.eu. Gaia Institut The French take beauty seriously - according to a 2008 Mintel report, the average French woman spends as much on facial skincare each year as her Spanish, German and British counterparts do as a trio – so it’s not surprising that the latest trend to catch on across the Channel is for natural and organic beauty treatments. In Marseille, the Gaia Institut is leading the way with a range of therapies carried out using organic skincare and make-up brands Phyt’s and Couleur Caramel. Choose from relaxing massages or natural make-overs. 18 rue Puit du Denier (+33 (0)9 50 93 65 32; www.gaia-institut.com). To market Tasting fresh local produce straight from its suppliers is one of the highlights of any trip to food-focused France. Though the daily fish market down by the Vieux Port is always busy, the pick of the bunch in Marseille are the city’s organic farmers’ markets. The most popular of these is the Wednesday morning gathering along Cours Julien. From organic patés and free-range eggs to artisan jams, juices, cheeses and breads, it’s a great place to make up a picnic after strolling around the area’s colourfully bohemian galleries, boutiques, cafes and bookshops. What to do Stroll back in time Few areas of Marseille offer a clearer insight into the city’s history than Le Panier, Marseille’s old town. Its lower section was severely bombed during WWII but head higher up and, among its narrow, hilly streets and sunny squares are cafes, boutiques and the Centre de la Vieille Charité (vieille-charite-marseille.org), a 17th century almshouse designed by Pierre Puget that now sees service as a museum and cultural centre. The best way to see Le Panier is by foot, on a guided walking tour organised by the local tourist information office. Marseille Tourist Office, 4 La Canebière (+33 (0)8 26 50 05 00; www.marseille-tourisme.com). The Frioul Islands An 800-hectare maritime park, part of the EU’s network of ecologically protected Natura 2000 sites and lying within the new Calanques National Park, the Frioul archipelago lies just offshore from Marseille. A must-see among nature-loving visitors, the four islands include If, whose ruined castle is famed as the setting for Alexandre Dumas’ novel, The Count of Monte Cristo. Boat trips run there regularly, but to tread more softly, choose to see them aboard one of two solar-powered boats - BlueEvasion’s Solis, or Croisieres Marseille’s Green Calanques. Day-long trips around the Frioul Islands and the Calanques on BleuEvasion’s Solis run from June to September (+33 (0)6 34 13 74 22; www.visite-bateau-calanques-marseille-cassis.fr); one-hour tours of the Bay of Marseille with Croisieres Marseille aboard Green Calanques pass by the Frioul Islands from April to November (+ 33 (0)4 91 58 50 58; www.croisieres-marseille-calanques.com). Meet the locals For an insider take on Marseille, there are few better places to start than Marseille Provence Greeters. A service run by local volunteers, fill in an online form a week or more before you arrive, listing your interests and the date of your visit, and the organization will pair you up with a friendly local guide to take you on a free, two-hour walking tour of the city’s sights, both on and off the beaten track. www.marseilleprovencegreeters.com Hit the beach With its Mediterranean location, Marseille’s beaches get predictably busy in the summer months; during July and August the main stretches of sand, which run south from the city centre and include the Prado and the Catalans, see around two million people laying out their beach towels. To avoid the crowds, it’s a better bet to head west, to the pebble-lined shores of the “Blue Coast” instead. Better still, many of these can be reached via the Marseille-Miramas “Blue Coast Train”. The services with the most stops run roughly hourly. For more information on the Blue Coast beaches, including maps and trains, see marvellous-provence.com/other-places/beaches/blue-coast The Calanques by kayak When the Calanques National Park opens in June it will be France’s 10th national park and, covering 43,000 hectares of sea and 8,000 hectares of land, the largest in Europe. An area of spectacular, deep narrow inlets backed by pale limestone cliffs and lapped by bright turquoise water, the most visited calanques stretch from Marseille to Cassis and have long been popular with hikers and sailors. One of the best – and least intrusive – ways to see them, however, is by kayak, on a day long tour. Day-long sea kayaking trips are run by ExpeNature, including equipment (+33 (0)6 80 74 40 99; www.expenature.fr). For more information on the national park see www.gipcalanques.fr. Onward Travel Marseille is the gateway to the south of France - from Marseille Saint Charles train station there are intercity (Téoz) train services west to Montpelier, Toulouse and Bordeaux, and east to Toulon and Nice. Marseille port is also the departure for ferries to the Mediterranean islands of Corsica and Sardinia. Written by Rhiannon Batten == Photo credits: A view over the city of Marseilles from the steps of Saint-Charles station, with Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica in the background - Atout France/Franck Charel; Yachts, Marseille - Atout France/Michel Angot; Bouches du Rhone by architect Rudy Ricciotti - Atout France/Cédric Helsly. Reve de Mouettes; Green Bear Coffee; Atout France/Michel Angot; Train photo: Thalys. Getting around photo: Saint-Charles station - Atout France

Tucked in between the French Alps (to the east) and the Massive Central (to the west), Valence is the gateway to Provence in the South of France. It might easily be overlooked in favour of the nearby cities of Lyon and Avignon, but if you venture to this historic, chilled-out city, in the heart of La Drome region, you're in for a treat. Valence's history dates back 2,000 years, it is France's largest producer of organic food, and is renowned for its fine cuisine and the wonderful Rhone wine. It's just 2 hours 10 minutes by high speed TGV from Paris and less than 6 hours by train from London. Here are a few of things I saw on my recent trip to the city as part of our Great InterRail Adventure with Rail Europe, plus a selection of the many tips that have been sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via the Green Traveller Facebook page. Thanks to all those who sent in recommendations. What to do 1. Explore the canals Valence was originally settled by the Romans who built a town on four terraces at the edge of The Rhone. The waterways created by the Romans remain on show today weaving through the town's parks and streets. Walking along the network of canals will take you past old mills and locks as well as through pockets of fauna and flora; duckweed, willows, alders, trout, ducks and insects.Tours are available to fully understand the unique ecology and history of these canals and in June it is possible to float down them on a small dinghy - perfect on a hot summer's day! Valence Tourisme. 2. Chill out in the city's green spaces In the very heart of Valence, Jouvet Park is home to tranquil shady spots alongside playgrounds, canals, a miniature railway and water fountains. I cycled over here from the city centre and carried on through gorgeous woodland all the way to the marina (see below). You can hardly believe you're minutes away from the city centre. 3. Visit the historic Maison de Tetes This 16th Century house, adorned with magnificent sculptured walls and heads symbolising the elements, is easily the most photographed attraction in Valence. The facade and inside of the building is a fascinating example of the transition between gothic and renaissance architecture during this period and well worth a visit. La Maison de Tetes is open from 08:30 to 17:00 each day, except Sunday when it opens at 14:00. It closes for lunch (12 - 13:30) every day. In July and August it does not open until 09:00 and 09:30 on weekends. Tel 0475792086 for more information. 4. Pick up a picnic at an organic food market Every Saturday morning, the Place des Clercs in Valence becomes home to an impressive organic food market. The perfect place to buy a picnic lunch before heading off to one of Valance's many parks. If you cannot make the organic food market there are plenty of other market options, including flea markets, flower markets and traditional food fairs. Valence Tourisme's Market Guide. 5. Cycle over to L'Eperviere Marina Valence is home to France's first River Marina, L'Eperviere, from where boats travel down all the way to the Mediterranean in a day. As well as hundreds of moorings, this area is also home to many of Valence's leisure activities; massage centre, bowling alley, tennis courts and a botanic walkway. Even if activity is not on your agenda, it is a great place to cycle to from the city centre and spend an afternoon relaxing in the refreshing mistral breeze, as it wafts off the river. Where to eat and drink 1. I had dinner on the first evening at Bistro des Clercs, a hotel and restaurant close to the Maison des Têtes in the old quarter of Valence. Napoleon once stayed here, and there's a plaque above the entrance dedicated to him. The restaurant provides traditional French food in a classy Parisian-style dining room or outside in a lovely square by a fountain. It is open Monday to Saturday for lunch 12-2pm and dinner 7pm-11pm, on Sundays it is open only for dinner. A three course set menu costs 35-40 Euros. 2. I had lunch on the second day at Un tablier pour deux, 164 Avenue Victor Hugo, which serves organic and mainly locally sourced food. Set menus are approximately 15 Euros for 3 courses, there's wine by the glass or as I did, try the local beer, it's delicious. During the week, the restaurant doubles up as a tea and coffee shop between 8am and 17:30. Tel. 04 75 44 14 68. Where to stay I stayed at Hotel de France a smart, modern, newly refurbished hotel, conveniently just a 10-minute walk from Valence Ville train station and in the centre of the city (opposite the tourist office and close to one of the city's bike hire stations). Rooms for between 1 to 4, from 80 Euros per night per room. Breakfast costs an additional 6 -12 Euros per person. Getting Around Valence Like an increasing number of French cities, Valence has its own government-funded bike hire scheme: in Valence it's called 'Libelo'. There are 20 stations throughout the city where you can access the bikes. A 1 Euro charge and a 150 Euro deposit will give you access the bikes for 1 day, with additional charges if you use the bike for more than 2 and a half hours. A whole day with one bike will cost approximately 6 Euros. Libelo Bike Scheme. Valence and the surrounding area have an excellent public transport network on coaches and buses, with 38 regular lines. Information and timetables are available from Tourist Offices or tel 08 10 26 26 07 or visit CTAV Valence Bus Map to plan a journey. Local information Tripbod's Avignon representative, Marjorie, is available to help plan your journey or give you local information. Tourisme Valence produce a useful PDF English Guide to Valence including a map and local attractions, in case you want to take a look before you arrive. Valence is just 2 hours 10 minutes by high speed TGV train from Paris (Gare Lyon) or 3 hours 30 minutes from Lille (Lille Europe). Travelling from London can take around 5 hours 32 minutes, including a station change at Paris (from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon). For more information about changing trains in Paris, see our guide: How to change train stations in Paris. Taking the 09:00 train from St Pancras will get you to Paris by 12:17, allowing for an easy transfer to the 13:20 TGV to Valence, arriving by 15:30. If you are staying in the centre of Valence then there is a short local train service from the TGV station to the centre of town. For more information on the journey to Valence by train (which continues south to Marseille) see our Overland Journey Planner: Train from London to Marseille (year-round) and London to Marseille by train (summer only, direct service). For more information on how to transfer in Paris see our guide to: How to change train stations in Paris. This blog post by Richard Hammond was researched and compiled by Holly Tuppen. Thanks to the Valence Tourist Board and La Drome tourism for hosting us and Rhone Alpes tourism for helping to organise our trip to Valence. We'll be back!

Aix-les-Bains is the unofficial sporting capital of France. There's a huge variety of outdoor activities on offer, from sailing and windsurfing on Lake Bourget (France's largest natural lake) to hiking in the surrounding mountain range in the heart of the Savoie Mont-Blanc region. After all the exertion, you can head back to town for a spot of 'bien-être' at the city's world famous spa where you can soak in any number of baths and therapeutic facilties, from hammans to saunas and geothermally-heated swimming pools. It's a great place to go for a sport break, especially as it's less than 7 hours by train from London via Paris and Lyon. Here is my quick guide to Aix-les-Bains based on my recent trip to the city as part of our SprInterRail Sporting Adventure around Europe with RailEurope, plus a selection of the many tips that have been sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via the Green Traveller Facebook page. What to do Watersports on Lake Bourget This is France’s biggest natural lake, and there's an endless amount of fun to be had on the water. Sailing and windsurfing, kayaking, rowing, kite surfing and diving – there are courses for novices and pros alike. You can catch a boat over to Hautecombe Abbey, an imposing 12th century Cistercian abbey on the shores of the lake, often referred to as a spiritual ship being launched into the lake! If you prefer to keep your feet firmly on dry land, there’s plenty to keep you entertained by the water’s edge – take a stroll round the lake, bask in the sun on one of the beaches, or people watch from one of the many waterside restaurants. Watch our 2-minute video of our day in Aix les Bains: Messing about on the river Hire an electric boat for the day! Not only is this an environmentally-friendly way to travel by water, but it’s utterly quiet – you can pootle along with only the murmurs of wildlife and the lapping water to disturb you. A fun, relaxing and green way to absorb the local countryside. www.bateaucanal.com Exploring on two wheels In an area renowned for outdoor pursuits, it comes as little surprise that Aix-les-Bains is very much geared towards the cyclist – in fact, in September 2011, Aix-les-Bains became a ‘City vélotouristique’. From flat routes around the lake or along valley bottoms, to tricky ascents into the heart of the mountains, the region is criss-crossed with miles and miles of cycle lanes and routes to keep both the gentle peddler and avid off-roader happy for days. The Revard plateau has 140 km of marked routes, and the Chautagne, between the Rhône and the lake, has some 45 km of relatively easy tracks to explore. You can find bikes to rent outside the train station. Head for the hills A trip to Aix-les-Bains really wouldn’t be complete without time spent roaming the peaks and valleys of the surrounding mountain ranges. The Bauges Massif, the Meije and the Ecrins are all within easy reach of the town, making this area a hiker’s paradise. For thrill-seekers on two wheels, take your bike on the Green Line bus up to Grand Revard (summer only) – you can get there under your own steam if you have the energy – for a picnic at the summit; at 1422 metres, you have a fabulous 360-degree view over the Mont-Blanc range, then it’s a 22 km free-wheel descent all the way back down to town. The buses are set up to carry paragliders too for those with wings instead of wheels. Spa time Give those overworked limbs a bit of respite with a visit to a relaxation centre. Aix-les-Bains is France’s third spa town – people have been taking the waters here since the 5th century – so a dip in the thermal baths should definitely feature near the top of your ‘to do’ list whilst you’re in the area. The Thermes Chevalley Centre offers a variety of different treatments and packages, from saunas to hammans to balneology. For the more serious detox junkies, the centre offers week-long courses. Where to eat La Maison des Pêcheurs Overlooking Lake Bourget, this is a must for anyone who loves fresh fish. We had a soup then steamed Lavaret - a fish that can only be found in the lake, followed by a fruit puff pastry washed down with delicious local white wine. We were told by our hosts that Michelin stars are just as much about service as they are about the quality of the food - and in our opinion here at La Maison des Pêcheurs both are terrific and it deserves to get a look in with the famous kitemark. This summer the restaurant is opening up 15 self-catering apartments overlooking the lake. Chez Les Copains Here is a down to earth, no-frills restaurant, serving good local and seasonal fare, much of which comes from the markets in the region. Staff are attentive, the décor is charming, with a terrace out the front for sunny weather. The truffle risotto is sublime. This is fine-dining without the fuss. Hôtel Palais des Fleurs Tasty organic cuisine, just a few steps from the hustle and bustle of the town centre. Using organic fruit and vegetables from local growers, the menu is bursting with delicious Savoyard specialities, like almond-crusted filet of Féra with herb-scented oil. Robust dishes, like tariflette, will keep hikers and bikers happy. www.hotelpalaisdesfleurs.com Where to stay La Jument Verte In the shade of a large spruce at the bottom of the garden, you’ll find a charming, red and orange-painted wooden caravan, with flowerboxes spilling red geraniums in summer, and a cosy woodburner to warm your cockles in winter. Inside, it’s the perfect alpine getaway with pine-clad walls and ceilings and red curtains framing little windows. If glamping isn’t really your thing, there are 4 rooms in the main house, too, decked out in a similar décor. This homely little B&B, with its lovely natural outdoor swimming pool, is hidden away in the Bauges Regional National Park but is within striking distance of Aix-les-Bains – a great choice if you want to stay out of town but still want to be within easy reach of everything. www.la-jument-verte.com Radisson Blu This is where we stayed. A four-star hotel with big balcony vistas meaning you can continue to soak up the alpine views even after you’ve finished up the mountains. This is a convenient, good value option in the centre of the town, with spa facilities galore (sauna, swimming pool, treatment rooms), and incredibly friendly, helpful staff. A range of different bedrooms options - from standard to junior suite – means there is something to suit everyone’s budget. It’s big (102 rooms in total) which makes their Key Green accolade even more admirable. www.radissonblu.co.uk Les Suites du Lac (right) If you’re after a bit of pampering on holiday, what better place than this stylish villa which has been built on eco-friendly principles, with solar panels to heat the water, low-energy LED light bulbs and recycling of swimming pool water and rainwater. Here, staff treat you like long-lost friends, the food is worthy of a Michelin star, and the supremely comfortable beds will make getting up the most challenging part of your day. The view of the lake from the stunning pool is quite something. www.lessuitesdulac.fr Getting around by public transport The centre of the town is small enough to get around on foot, but there's a comprehensive bus network if you prefer to use public transport. The surrounding region is also very well serviced by bus. As soon as you've checked into your hotel you will be issued with a Guest Card, giving you unrestricted free access on the entire Aix-les-Bains public transport network, as well as discounts on various sights and activities, like museums, water sports, tours and guides, and shows and cinema viewings. How to get to Aix-les-Bains by train From London St Pancras International Train Station, take the Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord then transfer to Gare de Lyon for a connecting service direct to Aix-les-Bains, which will take approximately 3.5 hours. For more information about how to travel by train from London to Aix-les-Bains see our rail journey planner: Train from London to Chambery (Aix is one stop further - about 15 mins). -- This green guide to Aix Les Bains was researched and compiled by Florence Fortnam, Richard Hammond and Andy Hix. Thanks to Isabelle Faure Rhone-Alpes Tourisme and Laurie Souvignet, Aix-les-Bains Tourisme for hosting greentraveller.

With over forty museums dedicated to history, art and architecture, Basel is the cultural capital of Switzerland. On the border with both Germany and France, in the north of the country, Basel is much more cosmopolitan than Zurich, not as spick and span, yet more laid back. It is also one of the country's greenest cities - the city's entire energy supply comes from renewable sources and since 2001 the local government has promoted the idea of a '2000 watt society', aiming to reduce the population's overall energy use from 6,000 to 2,000 watts. Basel is about 6 hours by train from London, and a great base from which to go exploring the Swiss Alps using a Swiss Pass (see below). Here are a few of things I saw on my recent trip to the city as part of our Great InterRail Adventure with Rail Europe, plus a selection of the many tips that have been sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via the Green Traveller Facebook page. Read the previous blog posts in our Greentraveller Guide to Utrecht, Holland | Greentraveller Guide to Antwerp, Belgium | Greentraveller Guide Cologne, Germany. Thanks to all those who sent in recommendations. The final destination is Valence! What do to 1. Experience Switzerland's Cultural Capital Basel has just about every kind of museum. (Basel-born architects Herzog & De Meuron were responsible for turning London's Bankside power station into the Tate Modern). There are over 40 to choose from: the Kunstmuseum is perhaps the best known - it has an impressive permanent collection of 19th and 20th century works (including a entire room of Picasso's work!) as well as a collection of Medieval and Renaissance paintings. On the banks of the Rhine is Museum Jean Tinguely, which is dedicated to 'kinetic' modern artists, and exhibits some fantastic animated mechanical works. Many of the museums have a free open hour at the end of the day. Every year, the ArtBasel art show showcases the latest in modern and contemporary works from more than 2,500 artists and boasts galleries from every corner of the globe. This year, it will take place between the 15th and 19th of June. Basel's museums 2. Wander the cobbled streets of Old Town Most of Basel's 'Old Town' attractions are within a walkable area between Basel Zoo and the Rhine. If you're interested in the culture of the area, aim for a Sunday when all the stores are closed. Wander over to Munsterplatz (Cathedral Square) to appreciate the cathedral's Romanesque and Gothic architecture. Built between 1019 and 1500, the highlight is the Galluspforte (Gallus portal) on the west side, which is considered the most important Romanesque sculptural work in Switzerland. You could also head over to Marktplatz (Market Square) where you can see the beautiful Renaissance town hall or visit the market where you can pick up everything from fruit and veg to bread and pastries - all local and fresh! The view across the mighty Rhine in the centre of Basel. Photo Richard Hammond 3. Enjoy the natural beauty of the Rhine For an unstructured, relaxing option, spend an afternoon walking alongside the Rhine in the sunshine, either along the promenade or across one of Basel's bridges. The two mile promenade on the Kleinbasel board offers a cool breeze and some fantastic views of the river, you can even opt to make like a local and take a dip if the weather is hot. Alternatively, crossing the bridges, especially the bridge near Munsterplatz offers fantastic views of the river, and its banks, and there's always the chance to hop on a ferry and enjoy the scenery that way - the Munsterfaehri crosses the river below the cathedral. Each August, 3000 people take part in the mass swim Rheinschwimmen, while many others simply sunbathe on the banks. Where to eat and drink 1. Rubino a smart modern restaurant on Luftgässlein in the quiet, old quarter of town, which specialises in local, seasonal dishes. Its healthy, inventive menu changes daily and centres on regional and organic produce. During the day, the Lunch Pass offers a range of gorgeous 3-course alternatives. In the evenings, instead of being given a menu, Rubino offers a 'menu surprise' where you simply choose meat, fish or vegetarian and only find out what you're getting when it arrives. I had crab, followed by pork (with nettle filling) and an impressive five-part dessert that included basil/pineapple ice-cream and chocolate fondant. Rubino also holds various wine-tastings and events. 2. Zum Isaak is in the Cathedral Square of Basel's Old Town opposite the cathedral. The evening menu contains creative dishes such as the lemon ricotta gnocchi and seabass with sauteed fennel while all meats are ecologically sourced from a local butcher. Refreshments can be served outside in the cathedral square, weather permitting and, in the summer, the beautiful garden offers the perfect place to enjoy Isaak's varied menu. 3. It's really cheap and easy to make up a picnic using ingredients from the Marktplatz in Old Town. Street vendors in the area sell everything from crepes to sandwiches and pizza slices, while stalls specialise in local, organic food and you can choose from a huge selection of fresh veg, cured meats, cheeses and pastries. Once you've made up your picnic, head over to the banks of the Rhine and enjoy your spoils in the sunshine. Where to stay I stayed at the Basel Hilton, which is conveniently just a few minutes walk from the station. What the locals say My local guide - the art historian Dr Rose Schulz-Rehberg - was a font of knowledge about the city... she's writing a book on Basel's architecture and offers tours of the city, such as art tours, walking tours and museum tours. Getting Around Basel The city has an extensive (bright green/yellow) tram network. Tickets are available at each tram and bus stop, at the bright green ticket machines that take both Swiss Francs and Euros. If you're looking to explore Basel itself, the Day Pass (CHF8) will be your best option, while a couple of days would necessitate the 6-Trip One Zone Multi-Ticket. Impressively, all hotels in Basel (including the youth hostel) offer each guest a free Mobility Pass at check-in that gives free, unlimited travel within Basel and its suburbs for the duration of their stay (up to 30 days). On the date of arrival, reservation confirmation from the hotel also guarantees a free transfer from your station to the hotel via public transport. It's also possible to cross the Rhine using Basel's ferry service. What's more, each of the four ferries is powered solely by the Rhine's natural current. Basel's ferry services | Timetables for Basel's public transport Basel is also a bicycle-friendly city, with many well-marked bicycle lanes throughout, and bicycles can be rented locally from the Rent-a-Bike service positioned underneath the Basel SBB railway station. You can choose to pick up and drop off your bike from a number of select Swiss train stations, and you can choose to rent a bike for anything from half a day (CHF25) to 12 days (CHF128). If you visit the website, you can even reserve a bike online, making it even easier to simply pick up and go. Basel's Rent-a-Bike service Specific bike trails also connect Basel with other parts of Switzerland via the enviable Veloland Schweiz network. The network's helpful website lists all available routes, as well as providing a wealth of extra information - from listing particular places of interest to offering safety tips. Getting to Basel by train Basel is served by two major train stations, the Basel SBB station in the south of the town (serving Swiss 'SBB' and French 'SNCF' lines, and the Basel Badischer Bahnhof (Basel Bad Bf) further north in Kleinbasel serving German 'DB' trains. The town has good high-speed ICE train links with Frankfurt and Berlin, and other fast train links with Paris, Strasbourg, Amsterdam, Luxembourg, Brussels and Milan. It is also possible to travel on night trains from a variety of cities including Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, Copenhagen, Moscow, Paris, Prague and Rome. Travelling from London can take less than 7 hours including a change from the Gare du Nord to the Gare de Lyon in Paris. See our guide to how to take the train from London to Basel. Swiss Pass I travelled through Switzerland using the Swiss Travel System's Swiss Pass. This pass entitles the holder to free travel throughout the entire Swiss Travel System, including the transport services of 36 Swiss towns and cities. In addition, a pass holder also receives a 50% discount on the majority of mountain rail and cableways, as well as free admission to more than 400 museums throughout the country. On my second day in Basel I took the train to Bern and then boarded the RegioExpress Lötschberger, which travels over the mountains to Brig. It's a wonderful trip - travelling high up into the Swiss Alps via the beautiful town of Spiez where I had a quick dip followed by dinner at one of several lakeside restaurants overlooking the marina. I left Basel after lunch and returned at about 10.30pm, but you could easily do the return trip earlier in the day or of course make a whole day of it. Highly recommended! Switzerland's Swiss Pass. Thanks to the Cologne Tourist Board for hosting us. === By Richard Hammond with help from Tom Watts. Thanks to Swiss Tourism for hosting us. For the latest info on visiting Switzerland, see the MySwitzerland facebook page.

I've just spent 24 hours in Utrecht and have been mightily impressed. Home to the Netherlands' top university, Utrecht is primarily a student city, oozing with youthful energy and enthusiasm. It's the perfect destination for a city break, with some great places to eat and drink. Drift past street performers and canalside cafes by canoe, explore the city on an illuminated night walk or pedal your way to the tranquil botanical gardens... think of it like a mini Amsterdam but without the crowds. Here are a few of things I saw on my trip to the city as part of our Great InterRail Adventure with Rail Europe, plus a selection of the many tips that have been sent in by readers via our twitter account: @greentraveller and via the greentraveller facebook page. Thanks to all those who sent in recommendations. Next stop is Antwerp! What to do in Utrecht 1. Climb to the highest and oldest spot in the city The Dom Tower is the highest and oldest church tower in Holland, built between 1321 and 1382. The tower is 112 meters high and offers an excellent view of Utrecht and its surroundings, but first you have to climb 465 stairs! On a clear day you can see the church steeples of Amsterdam. If you the long climb leaves you a little tired pop into the peaceful Cloister Garden next door to the church to unwind. Opening times: www.domtoren.nl/default.asp?action=pagina&pagina=2540&taal=1 2. Walk between Utrecht's illuminated sights Trajectum Lumen, 'The Utrecht Tale of Light', is a night walk taking in artistically illuminated locations in Utrecht's city centre. A trail of lights positioned on the ground leads to works of art by renowned light artists who bring the present and past of the city to life. The walk is free of charge and is shown every evening. For the route map and more information: www.trajectumlumen.com/?p=en#/1/ 3. Explore the city's unique canals by boat Utrecht’s Oudegracht is a curved canal that runs through the city. When the city's system of locks was finished in 1275 the water level was constant, enabling the creation of permanently dry cellars and new quays at water level, below street level. These wharfs have now been converted into restaurants, bars and boutiques, creating an entertainment district, steeped in the city’s history. Drifting through these famous canals by boat is by far the best way to soak up the lively culture of the city. Since Utrecht is renowned for its young and experimental attitude there are a range of boats and tours on offer from electric barges to canoes to water bikes - take your pick! Info: 1 hour on a boat bike costs 8 Euros per person. A day ticket for the electric boat hop on hop off service costs 22 Euros. Private boats and tours are available. www.canal.nl/bike/en/utrecht and www.holland.com/uk/cities/utrecht/attractions/canal-cruise-canoe.jsp. Also, over at the Oudegracht4, Kanoverhuur Utrecht hires out canoes and whisper boats, as well as offering a range of organised trips - from picnic packages to canoeing under the stars. Handy maps and waterproof bags are provided free of charge. www.kanoverhuurutrecht.nl 4. Soak up some railway history Utrecht is the national headquarters of Netherlands Railways, and therefore home to the Dutch Railway Museum. The museum is housed in a former rail station, and has a collection of over 60 steam engines, carriages, and wagons, along with other exhibitions related to rail travel. The museum is hosting a new multimedia project which offers presentations on the latest developments in rail travel, including information on new trains such as the TGV. www.holland.com/uk/discoverholland/artculture/museums/dutchrailwaymuseum.jsp 5. Pedal around Utrecht's green spaces If the sun is shining spend an afternoon taking in the sights by bicycle before relaxing in one of Utrecht's impressive parks. The Botanical Garden, home to a huge range of plants, butterflies and rock garden, is part of the University and is located on "The Uithof", on the east side of Utrecht. The Wilhelminapark, Park Lepelenburg or the Julianapark are good places to chill out in over the summer. Bike hire will cost you approximately 20 Euros for 1 day. There is a large bike hire centre next to the central station. www.rentabike.nl. The entrance fee to the Botanical Gardens is 6.50 Euros, for which you get a free map. www.botanischetuinen.uu.nl On July 2nd this year, Utrecht will host its first ever Open Garden Day. Visitors will have the chance to explore some 35 fascinating private and municipal gardens, all within walking or cycling distance of one another. In addition, the programme will also include churchyards, museums, ancient botanical gardens and many more locations of historic interest. Where to eat and drink 1. The canalside cafes are the preferred place to eat and drink in the city. In the summer this district comes alive with outdoor performances and entertainment staged on the quays, alongside food and drink options to suit everyone. 2. An excellent eco minded option is Restaurant Deeg, near the canals in the Lange Nieuwstraat district. You can choose between a fish menu, a meat menu or a vegetarian option and these semi-fixed menus change monthly depending on which produce is in season. For dessert there’s a choice between a combination of sweets or organic cheeses. A set menu at Deeg Restaurant costs approximately 25 Euros. www.restaurantdeeg.nl Where to stay in and around Utrecht 1. Hotel Mitland A good upmarket option with very peaceful grounds, heaps of facilities and close enough to cycle into the city centre. In the spirit of relaxation and tranquility the hotel is designed around beautiful gardens and offers cycling, jogging, walking, bowling and swimming facilities for guests. Double rooms start from 80 Euros. www.mitland.nl/home_e.htm 2. Buurboot La Luna B&B Hidden in the peaceful waterside neighbourhood of Lombok, Buurboot is a luxurious houseboat that boasts two kingsize bedrooms, large living space and fully equipped kitchen. Take the time to paddle down the lush backwaters of the 'Old Rhine' in one of the rentable electric rowing boats, or make the short trip into the centre of Utrecht. A double room for 1 night at Buurboot B&B costs 110 Euros. www.buurboot.nl/ What the locals say For an expat's take on living in Utrecht see the blog A Flamingo in Utrecht or for English information from a local, get in touch with Emilie at Tripbod: Tripbod's Utrecht expert How to get to Utrecht by train If you leave London St Pancras in the morning you can be in Utrecht by late afternoon. The most direct route is to get a train from London to Rotterdam. If you are planning on going to Utrecht then why not download this pocket guide to get the most out of your stay: Utrecht Pocket Guide. It is also worth checking out up and coming cultural events like Festival a/d Werf between the 19th and 28th of May and Cultural Sundays which takes place monthly.

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera, Rhiannon Batten features a range of places to eat and drink on this beautiful island, from lounge bars and seafood cafes to inland wineries and vegetarian restaurants. All photos provided by Formentera Tourism Places to eat and drink in Formentera Chezz Gerdi From Easter to October visitors to Es Pujols can escape from the midday sun at this buzzy lounge bar and restaurant, just back from the waves. Especially popular as the sun sets, when its cocktail list comes into its own and an upbeat, clubby scene picks up pace, you know you’ve arrived when you spot the cheerful red-and-white VW van parked at its entrance. Winner of an Ibiza Spotlight eco award for its sustainable approach to sourcing, the Italian-Spanish menu sticks to traditional crowd-pleasers; think clam pasta, lobster paella and made-to-order pizzas. chezzgerdi.com Caterina Formentera Owned by Italian brothers, this popular restaurant outside Es Calò is big on rustic charm. White-painted wooden tables are set on a series of outdoor terraces, interwoven by olive trees and illuminated by candles and hanging lanterns. While local seafood is a focus, the influence is more Italian than Balearic, with typical dishes ranging from the traditional (ricotta gnudi with tomato sauce and basil oil, or tiramisu) to the more adventurous (shrimp and artichoke rolls with walnut sauce, or little towers of squid and avocado). The homemade bread is a highlight. facebook.com/caterina.formentera Terramoll Vineyard On the island’s eastern plateau, La Mola, Terramoll is an organic winery producing 20,000 bottles a year. These are largely autochthonous wines such as Monastrell and Malvasía, though Viognier, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are produced too. In operation for over two decades, and now covering 12 hectares, sustainability is at the heart of the vineyard’s mission. Vines are tended according to a low-impact philosophy; chemical products, herbicides and mineral fertilisers are avoided and harvesting is done by hand. Widely available in the island’s restaurants, the wines can also be tried at the vineyard, in tastings paired with Balearic aperitivos. terramoll.es A Mi Manera The menu may sound international at this upmarket garden restaurant in the centre of the island but many of the ingredients are as local as you can get; seasonal vegetables and herbs are grown organically and served straight from plot to plate while meat and fish are sourced from trusted local suppliers. With tables set up within and around the vegetable garden, it’s an atmospheric spot for dinner al fresco. Typical dishes include ricotta-stuffed courgettes, spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and burrata and Formentera ceviche with celery and spring onion, marinated in orange and tomato. amimaneraformentera.com Casanita Cantina y Pescado Unpretentious though the surroundings might be, this traditional Es Pujols restaurant serves a sophisticated menu. With roots in Italian cooking but an eye on the local fishing boats, dishes range from salads topped with fried baby squid to seared octopus with creamed potato, paprika oil and chorizo ​​crumble, homemade potato ravioli with prawn ragout, artichokes, basil and Pata Negra ham and sea bream fillet with baby spinach, burrata cream and Cantabrian anchovies. Make sure you save space for dessert: the tiramisu is a long-standing favourite among regulars but more unusual choices, such as ricotta and local fig mousse with almond biscuit, hit the sweet spot too. casanita.net Es Calo Five minutes’ walk from the beach of the same name, this fish-focused restaurant is worth seeking out. From grilled local prawns to fish of the day (perhaps grilled bream or baked sea bass, depending on what the boats have brought in), a whole choice of paellas or local favourites such as sautéed squid with sobrasada and caramelised onions, there’s something for all pescatarians here. Carnivores too: baked chicken or grilled steaks can also be ordered. As can greixonera, a typical Balearic dessert that’s rather like a citrus-laced cousin of bread-and-butter pudding and named after the earthenware baking dish it is made in. restauranteescalocarta.com Can Rafalet If you like to dine with a view this seafood restaurant on the east of the island’s north coast stands out. Run by the same family since the 19th century, when it operated as a shipping office for produce coming and going between Ibiza and Formentera, the restaurant looks out directly over the white sand coves that fringe it. As well as views of the cliffs at La Mola, beady-eyed diners can gaze out over turquoise water all the way to neighbouring Ibiza. As you’d expect of its fishing village location the menu swings more to surf than turf; typical dishes include fried local squid, paella with Formentera-caught fish and a gorgeously rich fish stew. restaurantcanrafalet.com El Mirador The name is a giveaway at this culinary stalwart. Perched among pine trees, at the highest point of the island, the restaurant’s sun-dappled terrace enjoys panoramic views right over the island’s north and south coasts, including the great arcs of sand at Migjorn and Tramuntana beaches. In operation since the 1960s, the restaurant’s philosophy is to celebrate the traditional cuisine of Formentera, an approach showcased in dishes such as octopus on a bed of baked potatoes, Andaluz-style fried baby squid and Iberian pork with goat cheese and caramelised onion. It’s also an excellent place to try wines from neighbouring vineyard, Terramoll. elmiradorformentera.com Peixsec A payesa (country-style) salad is one of the most traditional dishes in Formentera, found on menus throughout the island. Made with tomatoes, onions, peppers, potatoes and baked bread its star ingredient is peix sec, a salted fish that’s been hung in the sun and the sea breeze to dry, then toasted and shredded (you’ll sometimes see it being used to add extra depth to local wood-fired pizzas too). If you’re keen to take some home with you to recreate a flavour of Formentera in your own kitchen, it’s now also available in jars, preserved in nothing but olive oil. peixsec.com La Cava Formentera If the Little Mermaid was to go on holiday to Formentera she would surely hang out in this desert island- style bar and restaurant in Es Pujols. Fishing nets dangle from the ceiling and a flotsam-like shield of upcycled shutters marks the entrance while bright tablecloths and pastel-coloured storm lanterns set a fun tone for diners. Whether sitting inside, or out on the shorefront terrace, La Cava is a laid-back, joyful place serving simple, home-cooked island staples at affordable prices; think paella, grilled octopus or sea bream, and slow-cooked crema Catalan. facebook.com/formenteralacava S'Averadero The fact there’s no website for this Es Pujols restaurant speaks volumes. Word of mouth brings diners to its door, eager to try its menu of island classics, on tables dressed with white linen tablecloths. From seafood platters to squid ink paella, all the usual surf-centred favourites are on offer here but meats grilled over coals are a definite highlight. The views aren’t bad either; try to bag a table on the balcony and watch the sun set over a swathe of aquamarine water as you finish your meal with a plate of local sheep’s cheese drizzled with honey. @savaradero_formentera Integral Formentera Island kitchens often focus on the bounty that lies off their shorelines but this one is a little different. A vegetarian restaurant in Es Pujols, with plenty of vegan options too, it serves bowls of creamy pumpkin soup, ratatouille with baked potatoes, local cheeses and veg-based dips. Homemade apricot mousse and a “nocheese” spin on the island’s famous minted cheesecake are favourites with regulars but it’s also a popular place for coffee and brunch, with açai bowls, granola, vegan muffins and avocado toast on offer as well as lunches and dinners. Perennially popular, it’s worth booking ahead to make sure of a table, especially in the evening. integralformentera.business.site Local flavours From grocery stores selling Formentera lamb and cheese to stalls stacked with locally-grown olive oil, tomatoes and apricots, bakery counters lined with slices of the island’s much-loved mint-flecked cheesecake or wineries producing smoky reds and fruity whites, food shopping in Formentera draws on the best of both sea and land. Whether you’re looking for ingredients to rustle up an island-inspired fish stew, planning a sun-down cheese and wine-pairing or looking for culinary souvenirs to take home with you, make sure you download a copy of Formentera’s Slow Food map to track down the island’s culinary treasures. == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera, Rhiannon Batten features a range of places to stay on this laid back island. All photos provided by Formentera Tourism Places to stay in Formentera Can Toni Mateu A vision of Balearic chic, this stylish whitewashed villa is in Can Parra, a corner of the island known for its traditional low-rise architecture and shady pine, juniper, olive, almond and fig trees. For guests keen to get out and explore the local scenery on foot, bike or horseback, Can Parra is also home to one of the island’s Green Routes. Originally built in 1800, but enlarged and renovated in recent years, the single-storey property takes an indoor-outdoor approach. Its four bedrooms, four bathrooms, kitchen, dining and living areas are linked by a central courtyard while the tree-lined garden is fringed by a series of porches, sun terraces and a swimming pool. cantonimateu.com Hostal La Savina This much-loved seaside hotel, an easy walk from the island’s ferry port, has been under the ownership of the same family for almost 70 years. The present owner’s great-grandmother began the guesthouse side of the business in 1959 and it evolved into a simple but fully-fledged hotel in 1980, now also with a popular restaurant (Formentera-caught fish is a highlight). Its location, close to spectacular Illetes and Llevant beaches, is a big draw. The hotel is also a member of Booking.com’s Travel Sustainable programme, meaning it is committed to reducing waste, minimising the use of water and energy, supporting local communities and protecting nature. hostal-lasavina.com Es Pas Formentera Agroturismo The farm-to-fork approach stands up to scrutiny at Es Pas, a 200-year-old country house surrounded by 20 acres of olive groves. Guests at this eight-bedroom, terracotta-tiled agriturismo can enjoy breakfasts laced with the estate’s own extra-virgin olive oil and jams made with homegrown apricots, figs and blackberries. You can even buy them to take away with you for a taste of Formentera back home. Not that you’ll be eager to leave. Set within a nature reserve, just a few minutes from Es Caló and Mijorn beaches, there may be a swimming pool on site but Es Pas is also in prime walking and cycling country. espasformentera.com Hotel Es Mares Sleek and serene, this small, wood-and-white hotel sits in a quiet, pedestrian street in the historic heart of Sant Francesc Xavier, the largest and oldest town in Formentera. Named after the sandstone that gives the island its chiselled topography (and was also used, for centuries, to build local houses, churches and towers), the smart, modern hotel has 18 bedrooms, and a refined atmosphere. Wake up to a locally sourced breakfast before taking a dip in the pool then head out for a ride on one of the hotel’s free bicycles or book a treatment in the spa before enjoying dinner in the restaurant; the wine list includes a particularly strong selection from local vineyards. hotelesmares.com Gecko Hotel & Beach Club A boutique hotel and beach club on Playa de Migjorn, on the island’s southern coast, Gecko sets a pitch-perfect holiday vibe, from its outdoor yoga classes to its roster of beachside DJs spinning uplifting Balearic beats. Beneath the slick surface there’s an admirable focus on sustainability, too. In addition to a zero-plastic commitment, staff uniforms have been redesigned by ECOALF, which made its name by turning marine debris into yarn for clothing, and charging stations have been installed for electric cars. The hotel also supports the island’s Save Posidonia Project, raising funds for the conservation and regeneration of the surrounding seagrass meadows by doubling contributions made by guests. geckobeachclub.com Apartments Es Clot des Forn Surrounded by junipers and ancient dry-stone walls, this cluster of simple apartments in Punta Prima makes the most of its rustic surroundings yet is just a couple of kilometres from the island’s main beachside tourist enclave, Es Pujols. A Booking.com Travel Sustainable badge-holder, Es Clot des Forn’s apartments sleep two, four or six people. While each one has its own outdoor terrace, guests also have shared access to a saltwater swimming pool. For those who prefer to keep their emissions down, bicycles can be hired for the five-minute ride into town. formenterarenting.com Hostal Bella Vista Set just behind a small run of shops in La Savina this cheap and cheerful three-star hotel is popular among foot passengers arriving at the neighbouring ferry port. As the name suggests, some of its rooms have lovely views out to sea over the jingling masts of boats moored in the adjacent marina. The terrace of the on-site restaurant also makes the most of those views. Enjoy them while feasting on traditional dishes from the island - fresh lobster and crab, simple fish stews and rice dishes. hostal-bellavista.com Can Tres A 10-minute walk from Migjorn beach, adults-only Can Tres has a breezy, barefoot vibe about it. Stays here are all about experiencing a slower, gentler pace of life. Natural materials take centre-stage in its three apartments, with kilim-style cushions adding a pop of colour among neutral woven furnishings and whitewashed walls. Also adding to the tropical feel are hammock swings, sunken concrete bathtubs and showers with skylights. Outside, beyond the apartments’ shady terraces, is an old orchard which the owners are bringing back into use as a kitchen garden. Kite-surfing and yoga can also be arranged. cantresformentera.com Hostal Illes Pitiüses The location is a highlight at this small, family-run budget hotel. In Sant Ferran de Ses Roques, a village in the heart of the island which was embraced by the counter-culture community in the 1960s (and remains home to a renowned guitar workshop), it’s well-placed for visitors looking to explore the island from a central base. While some of the hotel’s bedrooms come with balconies, all guests can make use of its outdoor terraces at mealtimes, when the hotel’s restaurant, Sa Panxa, serves dishes rich with local flavours. formenterapassport.com Casbah Formentera The name may conjure the hustle and bustle of North Africa’s souks but all is calm and serene at this leafy hotel, less than 10 minutes’ walk from Migjorn beach. Set within a pine grove, Casbah Formentera’s beautifully landscaped gardens are home to a swimming pool, and a gazebo set up for outdoor massages, while sweeps of bougainvillea and hibiscus line the paths between its bedrooms. The restaurant is a destination in its own right; diners come to linger over octopus croquettes or expertly cooked steaks in its magical indoor-out setting. hotelcasbahformentera.com Can Vicent Puig It’s all about light at this villa on Formentera’s eastern tip. Not only can guests stargaze from the terrace’s hot tub (the secluded location means light pollution tends to be low) but family legend has it that the property’s foundations were built with stone left over from the construction of the neighbouring Faro de la Mola lighthouse. Inside there’s an open-plan kitchen, dining room and fireside living area as well as three double bedrooms and a further annexe suite. Guests are welcome to buy the owners’ homegrown olive oil, harvested and produced by hand. Simple local breakfasts can be delivered by basket. canvicentpuig.com == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera, Rhiannon Batten features a range of adventure and other outdoor activities on this beautiful island. All photos credit Formentera Tourism, where not indicated see below for individual credits Activities in Formentera Bike, E-bike & Scooter Hire Formentera is the smallest inhabited island in the Balearic archipelago, at only 83 square kilometres. This small size, paired with fairly gentle terrain, make it a great place to discover on two wheels. Whether you prefer a touring bike, mountain bike, an e-bike or an Askoll electric scooter, Moto Rent Pujols can arrange a suitable vehicle to help you get out and about in a low-impact way (the company also rents electric cars if you need four wheels rather than two), a focus that has helped it win an eco label from Ibiza Spotlight magazine. All these vehicles can be collected from Moto Rent Pujols’ office, outside the ferry terminal in La Savina, or delivered direct to your accommodation. motorentpujols.com Festivals Highlights of island life for Formentera’s residents, each town has its own patron saint’s day, from Sant Ferran on 30 May and Sant Joan on 24 June to the Virgen del Carmen, patron saint of the sea (centred on La Savina and Es Pujols) on 16 July, Sant Jaume on 25 July, Santa Maria on 5 August, Virgen del Pilar on 12 October and Sant Francesc Xavier on 3 December. For fortunate visitors who happen to be on the island when these festivities are taking place it’s a wonderful chance to hear the island’s traditional songs, and to catch a glimpse of la llarga and la curta, traditional ‘long’ and ‘short’ dances whose rhythm patterns correspond to their names. Experts believe the latter have been performed on the island for over five centuries. formentera.es Green Routes Whether you want to wonder at the megalithic tomb at Ca na Costa, track down some of the island’s 17 native species of orchids, explore the Roman castle at Can Blai or spot Formentera’s unique fig tree formations (over time their branches have been moulded into distinctive, canopy-like horizontal platforms), there’s a Formentera ‘green route’ that will take you there. A network of 32 signposted walking, running and cycling trails criss-crossing the island, each route can be followed independently or linked together to form a longer excursion. Cycling Visitors staying in La Savina, Es Pujols, Sant Francesc and Saint Ferran can make use of a handy tool for exploring this busy northern corner of the island more efficiently by bike: the Metrominut Formentera map includes route details and timings for eight different cycle trails around the region, including towns, beaches and sites of interest; the longest section takes just 23 minutes. Rather pedal along with a guide? Formentera Bike Tours runs six different trips around the island, making the most of its scenic green routes to lead visitors to destinations such as Illetas beach and La Mola lighthouse. Tours typically last for around four hours and include plenty of time to enjoy the sights along the way. E-bike hire is included. formenteraebikestours.com Watersports Spend a little time on one of Formentera’s dazzling white-sand beaches and the shimmering cerulean waters that lap it will soon start to beckon. Whether you prefer to explore them via a gentle afternoon’s snorkelling, an expedition by kayak to paddle over Posidonia meadows, a voyage to ‘secret’ coves in a skippered yacht or catamaran, a high-adrenalin wakeboarding session or a short windsurfing lesson with the family, this maritime-minded island caters just as well for those who want to explore its coastline from the water as it does for those who prefer to do their adventuring ashore. Paddle yoga The name is a giveaway at Es Pujols-based Wet4Fun. One of the best-known watersports operators on Formentera, it offers everything from sailing, kayaking and windsurfing to SUP hire. If you fancy trying something different, however, how about paddleboard yoga? These 90-minute sessions are a mindful way to start or end a day by the water (or, in this case, on it). Running three times a week, the sessions start with a 45-minute SUP tour before moving on to 45 minutes of yoga and all equipment and instruction is included. wet4fun.com Scuba diving The popularity of scuba diving on Formentera is in no small part thanks to the existence of its posidonia oceanica seagrass plant meadows. These unique underwater seagrass fields help to oxygenate the water and maintain its clarity; visibility is so good that octopus, barracuda, plaice, grouper, bream, red mullet, moray eels, starfish and sponges are regularly seen. Some lucky divers report seeing turtles and dolphins too. Whether you want to give scuba a go for the first time or you’re an experienced diver, the island’s four local scuba companies will be glad to show you the ropes (or, rather, the reefs). Horseriding It may only take a morning to whizz around Formentera by car but you get to see more of its magic by venturing into its hinterlands on horseback. Local, family-owned riding operator, Rutas Es Boixets, takes pride in seeking out the island’s quieter, most scenic paths for visitors. From private lessons for complete beginners to gentle one-hour excursions through pine and juniper forests or 2.5-hour dawn treks for more experienced riders that include the chance to ride horses along the surf, all abilities are welcome. rutasesboixets.com Birdwatching With a location along migration routes between Europe and Africa, it’s no surprise that Formentera is a hotspot for birdwatching; over 200 species can be seen on the island year-round. A large proportion of Formentera is also part of the EU’s Natura 2000 network of protected breeding and resting sites for rare and threatened species. The varied range of habitats the island provides, from uninhabited islets to long dune systems, coastal juniper trees and saltwater wetlands, means rare species such as the Balearic shearwater flourish here, as do gulls, gannets, Eurasian hoopoes and even flamingos. Flora and Fauna Away from the island’s bars and beaches a different side of island life awaits exploration. As well as its famed offshore meadows of the posidonia oceanica seagrass plant, Formentera’s inland plant life is so rich (over 600 species have been counted here) and its habitats so diverse that a large part of the island is now protected under two schemes – the Parc Natural de ses Salines and the Natura 2000 network. If you’re a keen botanist it’s well worth packing your binoculars; local highlights include an aromatic species of thyme (thymbra capitata), traditionally used to season local figs, rare Can Rita oaks, pretty pink molinet (silene cambessedesii), endemic sea-lavenders (including Limonium formenterae) and 17 species of orchids. Trips are best timed for the spring or autumn if you want to catch the island’s flowering species in bloom. Running A mild climate, fairly level terrain and a proliferation of off-road green routes makes Formentera an increasingly popular destination for runners. The chance to pass scenic pine and juniper forests, seafronts, lighthouses and quiet coves along the way are an added bonus. It’s not just about enjoying peaceful training runs, however. Formentera also plays host to several annual races, from the Formentera All Round Trail, a 72.5-kilometre race that circuits the island’s coast, to the John Tunks Memorial Constitution Race; the oldest race on the Balearic Islands this includes a 400-metre option for children, a 2,800m people’s race and a 12km circuit around Estany Pudent. == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera, Rhiannon Batten features a range of visitor attractions and other places of interest on this beautiful island. All photos Formentera Tourism, where not indicated see below for individual credits Places of interest in Formentera Es Caló de Sant Agustí A traditional fishing village to the east of the island’s north coast, Es Caló’s picturesque natural harbour is lined with simple wooden boathouses designed to protect the locals’ small vessels from the salt water. One of the best places on the island to see these traditional dry docks (with their distinctive matchstick-style wooden ramps and roofs they were declared an official site of cultural interest since 2002), the village is also a great place for a post-swim lunch or dinner, with several restaurants to choose from. To the west are the sandy coves of Ses Platgetes and, to the east, the cliffs of La Mola, reachable on foot via green route 25, which follows a historic path to La Mola lighthouse known as the Camí de Sa Pujada. Sant Ferran At the crossroads between Es Pujols, Sant Francesc Xavier and the east of the island, the small town of Sant Ferran de ses Roques is centred around a pretty square that’s home to a historic church. In the 1960s and 70s the town became a gathering place for counter-cultural idealists seeking a more low-key alternative to the buzz of neighbouring Ibiza; their hangout, the Fonda Pepe café and restaurant, survives to this day. As does the town’s reputation as a liberated, creative kind of place. Musicians often play in the square during the day and the town is home to a long-standing craft market. Enric Majoral When Enric Majoral and his partner, Dolors Ballester, arrived on Formentera on a wave of New Age optimism in the 1970s they were seeking a new direction. Eric found it in jewellery, teaching himself the craft over time through experimentation and graft. Four decades later his name has evolved into a highly regarded, and highly sophisticated, brand. Now aided by his son Roc, Majoral’s jewellery is directly inspired by the island, evoking its distinctive forms and places with sinuous gold forms that hint at the shimmering sea, rocks and waves. majoral.com Windmills Once a fundamental part of the island’s landscape but now serving a more photogenic purpose, Formentera’s mills demonstrate how important wheat was to this self-sufficient community. In the 18th century seven large mills were built, designed to run on the island’s bounteous wind power: Molí Vell and Molí d’en Botigues in La Mola, Molí d’en Teuet and Molí de ses Roques near Sant Ferran, Molí d’en Mateu and Molí d’en Jeroni west of Sant Francesc Xavier and Molí d’en Simon in Es Cap de Barbaria. The best-preserved today is Molí Vell, which is open as a visitor attraction. Arts and crafts markets A legacy of the island’s bohemian past, Formentera’s arts and crafts markets remain a highlight for visitors to the island today. Running from May until October, the largest are at La Mola on Wednesdays and Sundays and Sant Ferran every day except Wednesdays and Sundays but there are also markets at Sant Francesc every morning, La Savina every day (from June to September) and Es Pujols every evening. Focusing on products designed and produced on the island, they’re great places to buy baskets, espadrilles, jewellery, textiles, glass, ceramics and leather. As is the Antoni Tur Gabrielet craft centre in Sant Francesc Xavier, where you can also find local fruit, vegetables, eggs and honey. Watchtowers Pirates have long been the bane of island-dwellers and Formentera is no exception. In the 18th century the threat was so severe that four watchtowers (plus a fifth on a neighbouring islet) were built here to warn of possible pirate incursions from North Africa. Set at strategic points on the island, but close enough to communicate by smoke signal, they are Punta Prima near Es Pujols, Des Garroveret or Des Cap tower on the Cap de Barbaria, sa Gavina close to Can Marroig and Pi Catalá next to Migjorn beach. The latter is the only one open to visitors today; built in 1763, it was restored by Formentera architect Marià Castelló in 2016. Far De La Mola The island’s best-known landmark, La Mola lighthouse perches above cliffs in the very east of the island. Designed by the architect and engineer Emili Pou y Bonet in 1861, today it houses a small exhibition on Formentera’s maritime heritage and is a popular spot to watch the sunrise or sunset. At a lofty 120 metres above sea level the views out across the Mediterranean from here are spectacular. It also has a place in literary history; in his novel Hector Servadac, Jules Verne used La Mola as the inspiration for his “lighthouse at the end of the world”. The most pleasant way to reach it is walking or cycling to it along green route 29. Estany Pudent y Ses Salines A large lake in the north of the island, between La Savina and Es Pujols, Estany Pudent is a must-visit for birdwatchers and, as such, off-limits to swimmers. Flamingos, storks and shelducks can often be spotted from the Es Brolls walking and cycle path, which fringes the lagoon, as can several species of waders, ducks and herons. It’s also home to one of the largest concentrations of black-necked grebes in Europe; sometimes they flock here in their thousands. Nearby are the salt flats of Ses Salines, which flush pink and violet in the summer. In use for centuries, their importance in the island’s long history of salt production saw them declared a monument of historical cultural interest in 2004. See also our section on birdwatching in Formentera in Activities in Formentera. Can Marroig and Punta de Sa Pedrera Once a quarry but now a lagoon-like cove, Sa Pedrera sits ethereally between La Savina and Cala Saona on the island’s eastern coast. A pool of shimmering aquamarine water almost encircled by high chiselled walls, its dramatic form really dazzles when visited by boat. Better still, go snorkelling here; among the site’s rich marine life is posidonia oceanica, a seagrass plant so special that Formentera’s underwater meadows of it have World Heritage Site status. Nearby is the Can Marroig estate whose shady pine and juniper trees make a lovely picnic spot. Sant Francesc Xavier The historic centre of Sant Francesc Xavier, the island’s main town, looks a little like a film set from a stylised Western. In pride of place is the parish church, a magnificently austere whitewashed building designed, in 1738, as a fortress as well as a religious sanctuary. The surrounding square, dotted with palm trees, is also flanked by some spectacular 19th and early 20th century townhouses, with painted stonework and dainty balconies. Also in this area is the small, barrel-vaulted chapel of Sa Tanca Vella. After exploring the local architecture, sit and soak up the atmosphere from one of the town’s bustling pavement cafes and bars. S’Estany des Peix Tucked to the west of the port at La Savina, S’Estany des Peix is Formentera’s answer to Tahiti – a sweeping, shallow lagoon with an opening to the sea that allows small boats to enter and moor in its topaz waters. Its sheltered location means the lagoon is ideal for visitors wanting to try out windsurfing, kayaking and sailing in calm conditions while the shallow coves that pepper its banks are popular with families. As is Caló de s’Oli, a beach-fringed rocky spit on the other side of the lagoon from La Savina. Es Cap de Barbaria If this lighthouse in the far southwest of the island looks familiar that might be because it appeared in Julio Medem’s 2001 film Sex and Lucía. Its cinematic silhouette - a white-washed beacon soaring from the desert-like landscape that surrounds it - draws large numbers of visitors, especially at sunset. Follow their lead and you’ll find yourself not just at the southernmost point of Formentera but also of all the Balearic Islands; head south from here you won’t hit land until North Africa. Also at the Cap is the Foradada cave, with its beautifully framed viewpoint overlooking the sea, the remains of various prehistoric sites and one of the island’s historic watchtowers. Family Gymkhana It’s not always easy to persuade young children to go sightseeing when they’d rather be filling buckets and spades at the beach. Help is at hand on Formentera, though; the local tourist office has created a family ‘gymkhana’, in which two fictional children’s characters, Trobi and Tana, lead younger visitors around 10 of the island’s natural and historic sights. At each location a QR code provides age-appropriate information about the site. If families visit and activate the QR code in at least six of the 10 locations, they can pick up Explore Formentera with Trobi from local tourist information offices. This free book details the adventures of Trobi and Tana around Formentera. Museums & galleries The soft light, azure sea and rocky beauty of Formentera have long drawn artists, musicians, filmmakers, and craftspeople to its shores. Not least in the 1960s, when an influx of cosmopolitan creatives arrived to set up studios and workshops. Their work, as well as that of contemporary and visiting artists can now be seen in three main locations: the Sala d’Exposicions Ajuntament Vell, in Sant Francesc Xavier; the sleek white Centro Antoni Tur “Gabrielet” in the same town; and La Mola lighthouse, which has an exhibition on the maritime heritage of Formentera as well as a cultural space for concerts, conferences and plays. Visiting historians won’t want to miss the Formentera Ethnographic Collection in Sant Francesc Xavier either. Its displays give a glimpse of life on the island before the mid-20th century. == The google map below shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Formentera: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities

Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. If you'd like to receive the newsletter by email, please subscribe here. This newsletter is now part of a series of publications produced by Green Traveller. Our media production website is at greentraveller.com and our consumer-facing website is at greentraveller.co.uk. Our free bi-monthly online Green Traveller magazine ties in with related features across all our channels that aim to shine a light on lower carbon travel ('less carbon, more fun!') as well as positive impact adventures further afield. The Green Traveller magazine is produced and distributed by Charitable Travel – The April/May issue is now out Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden The Guardian newspaper has this weekend published a lovely article by travel writer Sarah Baxter about our overland trip by train from the UK to Gothenburg to experience 'Climate Smart Holidays' in West Sweden. It has been a great pleasure for Green Traveller Productions to facilitate this trip. Working in a collaboration with West Sweden Tourist Board, we have produced a suite of outputs: an online guide to Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, including two feature articles, reviews of each of the businesses, a collection of photos and video clips that I filmed on location in West Sweden (I took a small drone, iPhone 15, a lightweight micro-four thirds camera and a few lenses). The campaign has now had over 100k views on Instagram, Facebook and YouTube (see the video trailer below). The collaboration has extended to working with the tour operator Sustainable Journeys, through which customers can book these innovative Climate Smart Holidays. Green Travel News Electric coach travel is here Coach operator Flixbus has launched its first 100% electric long-distance coach service in England and Wales. The zero emissions electric vehicle will be trialled for three months on FlixBus’ long-distance coach network with operator partner Newport Transport, so travellers will be able to try out the electric vehicle on the operator’s route between London, Bristol and Newport (South Wales) until June. “This is a huge step forward for the UK coach sector, transforming the already low-carbon mode of transport to zero-emission at the tailpipe through innovative technology,” said Andreas Schorling, managing director of FlixBus UK. Ticket prices start from just £2.99, and the 46-seat vehicle includes a toilet, USB charging points and free Wi-Fi for all customers (as is standard on FlixBus services). The coaches are also PSVAR compliant, supporting travel for passengers in wheelchairs. Flixbus says the vehicle “will save 352kg of carbon emissions per day driven on this route compared to the average diesel-fuelled coach, as well as improve air quality”. Vive L'électricité! The famous red and white boats of Lake Annecy in the Annecy Mountains are going ‘all electric’. The emblematic Libellule has already been converted, while The Cygne is currently in dry dock for an all-electric release planned for mid-July 2024. bateaux-annecy.com Inhabit London gains B Corp Inhabit, the wellness hotel in Queen’s Gardens, London, has been certified by B Corp – the certification system that verifies companies who meet high standards in social and environmental performance, transparency and accountability, balancing people, planet and profit. The hotel joins its sister site, Inhabit, Southwick Street, in gaining the robust certification. Both ‘zero waste to landfill’ hotels, Inhabit works with Globechain, a British marketplace that redistributes unwanted items by connecting corporations to charities and families and thereby diverting items from landfill. Inhabit also works closely with social enterprises, fellow B Corp businesses and small, socially-conscious suppliers with refill systems, those without plastic packaging and those using net-zero transportation. Suite mini bars are stocked by Social Supermarket, whose snacks and drinks are all ethically made by social enterprises, and its furniture and furnishings are made by brands including London furniture makers Goldfinger and ethical homewares label Kalinko. Valencia launches green routes The Spanish city of Valencia, The European Green Capital 2024, has unveiled a series of routes showcasing the city’s sustainability achievements across three themes: Nature, promoting natural areas such as the Albufera Natural Park, the Valencian orchard and the Turia Gardens; Sustainable mobility, promoting the use of public transport, cycling and walking, and the recovery of Public space, including the Turia Gardens and the Marina de València. Hostelworld's staircase to sustainability The online travel agent for hostelling, Hostelworld, has unveiled a new framework to communicate and elevate sustainability practices in the industry. Working with the Global Sustainable Tourism Council, its ‘Staircase to Sustainability’ framework is tailored to hostels, and will provide guests with clear information on their sustainability management practices, as well as their socio-economic, cultural and environmental impact. New site for campsites with custodians The Aboriginal-owned and operated campground initiative ‘Campsites with Custodians’ in Western Australia is opening a seventh site, on the beautiful Thomas Bay north of Broome. Visitors will be able to catch a fresh feast of mud crab or take a kayak tour and spend time snorkelling in crystal clear waters abundant with sea life. Set amid some of the Kimberley and the Pilbara’s most remote landscapes, the campgrounds offer a unique opportunity to experience the local way of life. There are currently six locations at Imintji, Mimbi, Violet Valley, Doon Doon Roadhouse and Djarindjin (in the Kimberley) and Peedamulla (in the Pilbara). Each grants access to a host of authentic Aboriginal cultural experiences. The Black Mambas Travel operator Intrepid is offering the chance for travellers to meet the Black Mambas – South Africa’s first all-female anti-poaching unit. Select trips take visitors on a bushwalk before they’ll retire to camp to swap stories by the fire and find out exactly what it takes to be part of this all-female unit. Based in Balule Nature Reserve, part of the Greater Kruger National Park, their approach to policing the area is novel because they’re unarmed and, instead, use nonviolence and embedded community involvement to spread the conservation message. Photographer Diana Jarvis travelled to meet the Black Mambas and has profiled them in her Responsible Photography column in our Green Traveller magazine (pp4–5). Date for your diary Wednesday 17th April: Spain Sustainability Day, The Conduit, London The Spanish Tourist Office (UK) is hosting Spain Sustainability Day on 17 April to address the ongoing challenges of tourism and sustainability and give insight on the future of ethical tourism in Spain and further afield. The event consists of a sustainability conference in the afternoon – where discussions will encompass social, cultural, economic, and environmental sustainability – followed by Sustainable Media Awards in the evening. There's an excellent line-up of panellists, including representatives from a wide range of high profile organisations in Spain, as well as Nadine Pinto, Global Sustainability Manager, The Travel Corporation; Carol Rose, Senior Sustainability Manager, ABTA; Dylan Walker, Wildlife Heritage Areas; Zina Bencheikh, Managing Director, Intrepid; and Angus Drummond, CEO, Limitless Travel. I will be moderating two panels on the 'Circular Economy' and 'Biodiversity - Impacts and Interventions', and travel writer Meera Dattani will be moderating a panel on 'Accessibility and Inclusivity'. Keynote speakers are Nejc Jus, Head of Research at WTTC, and Charlie Cotton, Founder, Ecollective Carbon. News from Green Traveller The April/May issue of Green Traveller magazine features: Remaking the Med, by Natalie Beckett Get the Picture - The Black Mambas, by Diana Jarvis Make the most of volunteering, by Richard Hammond Menu from Athens, by Clare Hargreaves Food for thought – ethical food and drink, by Richard Hammond Get to know Virginia Beach (sponsored content) Postcard from Frankfurt, by Rebecca Miles Holidays in history, by Richard Hammond Campsites reachable by public transport, by Richard Hammond How to travel overland from the UK to Lucerne, Switzerland ...and much more!

Richard Hammond shines a light on some of the best treehouse holidays Treehouses have come a long way from makeshift wooden shacks with flimsy rope ladders at the bottom of a garden. The modern constructions are carefully crafted, state-of- the-art structures often in beautiful, secluded woodland locations, cocooned but with plenty of creature comforts, including double beds, wood- burning stoves, running water, fully equipped kitchens and spring-water showers. Some of these magnificent arboreal abodes have rope bridges to children’s rooms or require a harness to reach them, and all enable you to live the high life in the lofty boughs of a tree; lie back, count the stars and listen to the owls. Here are 7 of the best: THE LIVING ROOM, POWYS These six state-of-the-art architectural wonders in wood, are high up in the tree canopy in a dense woodland in the heart of Wales, with double beds, fold-down bunk beds, and wood-burning stoves that heat spring- water showers. Details: Two nights self-catering start from £379 for two. living-room.co MALLINSON’S WOODLAND RETREAT, DORSET These three remarkable treehouses are the stuff of dreams, and lovingly crafted bythe owner Guy Mallinson and his team of skilled woodsmen. Dazzle is a camouflage design inspired by patterns used to conceal First World War ships; Pinwheel is in a clearing between a ring of mature oak trees in a corner of a bluebell wood; and Woodman’s is a stylish, secluded haven for two, sensitively perched in the bowsof an ancient oak. Details: Two nights self-catering starts from £790 for two. mallinson.co.uk RUFUS’S ROOST, YORK Walk across a raised boardwalk through the forest to this wonderfully secluded large treehouse in a private woodland on the Baxby Manor estate. It sleeps up to six in three tree-top rooms, and between two turrets there’s a large veranda with a log-fired pizza oven and a hot tub. The kids will be in den heaven when they discover the hidden doorway under the stairs that opens up a wooden slide down to a secret room with bean bags and comfy cushions. Magical. Details: Four nights mid-week self-catering starts from £1,180 for six. baxbymanor.co.uk PERCHÉ DANS LE PERCHE, NORMANDY, FRANCE A perfectly formed abode that sleeps up to six in an old sweet chestnut tree, Perché dans le Perche has a large terrace and summer kitchen.It sits in splendid isolation among a naturalist garden within 25 acres (10ha) of sustainably managed countryside in the Le Perche Regional Nature Park. Hiking trails lead to La Renardière and through sunken lanes to the Bellou-le-Trichard valley. Details: One night’s B&B starts from €170 for two perchedansleperche.com THE TREEHOUSE, ARGYLL An eight-sided eco build with triangular dormer windows, the Treehouse has underfloor heating and a traditional slated roof. There’s just a double bed, but an oak staircase spirals around the central oak tree up to a mezzanine level where the kids can stay. This unique eco-friendly abode is in an 18th-century orchard bya woodland on the historic Kinlochlaich House estate, halfway between the railway stations of Oban and Fort William in the west of Scotland. Details: Four nights mid-week self- catering starts from £501 for two. treehousescotland.co.uk HUDNALLS HIDEOUT, GLOUCESTERSHIRE Indulgence for couples only at this large, carefully crafted luxury treehouse in the Wye Valley. Sited in ancient woodland with access to a wildflower meadow for picnics, massages, reflexology treatments and yoga can all be arranged. Details: Two nights self-catering start from £800 for two. hudnallshideout.co.uk TREEHOUSE HOTEL, FALKÖPING, WEST SWEDEN Hoist up your organic breakfast every morning to your wooden cabin, set 21ft (6.5m) high in a cluster of oak trees in a tranquil setting near Falköping in western Sweden. There are three cabins: The original Andrum, the statelier Seventh Heaven and the latest addition – Himlajord. All have double beds and were built sustainably: natural colour pigments were whipped together with linseed oil and eggs from the neighbour’s hens; organic textiles adorn the interiors; and you’ll drift off to sleep on organic double mattresses listening to the rustling of the leaves in this very special arboreal abode. Details: One night’s B&B starts from SEK3,150 for two. islanna.com This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller, published by Pavilion (£18.99), which also appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Richard Hammond on the organisations and accreditations that are helping us to make ethical choices when buying food and drink in the UK, and also further afield Feasting on local, seasonal food washed down with the local tipple conveys a sense of place better than any travel brochure. It’s also one of the most effective ways to keep your carbon emissions down. There can be a surprising number of hidden emissions embedded within the provenance of food and drink, especially when it is shipped, or worse, flown in from overseas – over 25 per cent of all greenhouse gases are based on the food industry. Whether it’s freshly baked bread for breakfast, salad from the kitchen garden for lunch, or the catch of the day for dinner – choosing local isn’t just good for the planet, it’s also enjoyable and a great way to put money into the local community. However, be aware that the term ‘local’ can be used disingenuously: I’ve seen it used to describe a radius of hundreds of miles, stretching the concept to render it virtually meaningless. It’s best if the description of food includes the name and location of the local business. Prawn on the Lawn, a sustainable seafood restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall (prawnonthelawn.com), goes one step further and names the people behind their products, for example: “Ross supplies us with veg, salad and herbs that he grows on his family’s farm less than a mile from Padstow,” and, “Johnny’s a fifth-generation Padstow fisherman supplying the freshest crab and lobster from his day boat PW132. Look out for him popping into the restaurant in his oilskins.” Rubies in the Rubble: An award-winning range of ketchups, mayos and relishes, sold nationwide and made from ingredients that would otherwise have been wasted because they’re the wrong shape, size or colour, from over-ripe bananas to curly cucumbers. rubiesintherubble.com It’s just as important to avoid food that comes from intensive farming, which has had a devastating environmental cost over the past 70 years. While yields have skyrocketed, fossil-fuel derived fertilisers and pesticides have polluted our air and waterways, wiping out many insects and wild plants, while other intensive farming practices have destroyed wildflower meadows, ponds and hedges up and down the land. Numbers of bees, butterflies and birds across the UK countryside have plummeted: in particular, hedgehogs, tree sparrows and turtle doves have all declined by over 90 per cent. Poor soil management has led to increasingly severe flooding and precious soil is being washed away at an alarming rate. We should also avoid seafood from intensive fishing. According to the Marine Conservation Society (MCS), 90 per cent of world fish stocks are currently fully- or over-exploited, so it’s vital to choose seafood from sustainable sources – whether that is fish that is farmed sustainably or caught in the wild sustainably. The MCS has produced a Good Fish Guide to help you choose sustainable fish by understanding three key things: where it was sourced; whether it was farmed or wild-caught; and how this was done, such as whether it was hand-gathered, dredged, bottom trawled, mechanically harvested, caught by hook and line, or by a net. It also includes a handy guide to what is in season – the most unsustainable fish is red-rated. Local food tours Connecting with a local guide to show you around is a great way to get to know the destination’s food scene, especially in cities where the breadth of choice can be bewildering. They can take you to the lesser known places that serve signature dishes based on age-old recipes that the locals swear by. There are several websites that can point you to local food tours, such as spottedbylocals.com, toursbylocals.com, Airbnb (select the ‘Food and drink’ filter in its ‘Experiences’ section), and culinarybackstreets.com, which specialises in culinary food tours in several European cities, such as Lisbon, Porto, Naples, Barcelona and Marseille. One of my favourite foodie tours was with Alternative Athens, a half-day tour to the best street food stalls and the shops of heartfelt producers in the Greek capital, where I was given a wide range of fabulous tastings of the city’s vibrant food scene including an oregano-perfumed pork souvlaki and a nut-packed baklava oozing with honey. alternativeathens.com Sustainable wine The UK now has a sophisticated wine scene with hundreds of vineyards producing all manner of wines, from award-winning sparkling whites to velvety reds. Keep an eye out for the Sustainable Wines of Great Britain label awarded to those producers that promote biodiversity on their vineyards, manage them sustainably with minimum pesticides and fertilisers, and reduce water- and non-renewable energy consumption. winegb.co.uk Natural wine is made from organically farmed grapes that have been grown using permaculture practices; crucially, it is made without adding or removing anything during the wine-making process, both in the vineyard and in the winery. rawwine.com Other organisations that can help point the way to more sustainable food and drink include: Food Made Good is an initiative of the Sustainable Restaurant Association, which assesses restaurants on how sustainable they are, based on how they rate regarding three pillars: Sourcing: using local and seasonal produce to support British business, reduce haulage costs and the environmental impact of transport; increasing the proportion of veg-led dishes to combat environmental damage and purchasing high welfare meat and dairy products; supporting global farmers by sourcing fairly traded produce to ensure farmers in the developing world have access to a trade system based on justice and fairness. Society: providing equal opportunities, training and policies to keep employees happy and productive; engaging with the local community; offering balanced menu options, reasonable portions and healthy cooking options to cater for customers’ needs. Environment: improving energy efficiency and managing water usage; reducing food wastage and eliminating waste that goes to landfill. It awards three stars to the best, such as: Lussmans in St Albans, Harpenden and Hitchin, Hertfordshire; Where The Light Gets In (WTLGI) in Stockport; and BuJo Burger Joint in Ireland. The food served on Eurostar is also three-star rated. One of my favourite three-star restaurants overseas is at Hôtel les Orangeries in Lussac-les-Châteaux, just south of Poitiers, France, which designs dishes using edible flowers, wild herbs and oils for flavourings supplied from a local garden. thesra.org Pasture for Life is a certification scheme for meat and dairy that comes from animals raised only on grass and pasture. pastureforlife.org Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) has a blue fish label for those products that come from well managed, sustainable fisheries. Over 150 fish and chip shops in the UK have this label, including Rockfish in Brixham, Devon, and Cod’s Scallop in Nottingham, so too do several chippies that operate out of mobile vans, such as The Whitby Fish and Chips Company and Kingfisher On The Go in Plymouth. msc.org Farm Wilder selects and labels produce from farms where wildlife still thrives – including birds such as cuckoos that have vanished from much of Britain, or rare butterflies like the marsh fritillary. It works with charities including Butterfly Conservation, The Wildlife Trusts, RSPB and the Farming and Wildlife Advisory Group to help these farmers nurture endangered species, restore biodiversity and farm more sustainably.  farmwilder.org Soil Association is a British charity that campaigns on a range of issues related to the way we eat, farm and care for the natural world. soilassociation.org == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (£18.99 Pavilion Books) by Richard Hammond

As part of our ongoing series on Car-Free Travel, Richard Hammond provides a few examples of car-free itineraries in Britain You’re never far from a footpath in Britain – there are about 150,000 miles of public rights of way in England, Scotland and Wales, and many of them can be reached by public transport. Walking to catch a bus, boat or train is a great way to begin a walk – the adventure starts as soon as you leave your house – whether you’re going on a day walk out of a city centre, or a long-distance walk across areas of great natural beauty. Many train, bus and boat operators are keen for walkers to use their services, especially at weekends, and provide multi-modal ranger tickets that you can use across their networks. Here are a few examples of car-free itineraries – simply lace up your boots and away you go. Rail To Trail This is a series of 12 self-guided walks from train stations along the Bentham Line, totalling 68 miles (109km) from Heysham Port to Skipton across Yorkshire and Lancashire. The train travels through the lovely valleys of Aire, Ribble, Wenning and Lune, passing the hills of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, before reaching the huge estuary of Morecambe Bay. Four of the stations along the route, Wennington, Bentham, Clapham and Giggleswick are handy gateways to the Forest of Bowland. The shortest walk is just 2½ miles (4km) – from Morecambe station to Bare Lane station – while the longest is the 11⅓ miles (18.2km) from Wennington station to Carnforth, the station that famously featured in the classic 1945 film Brief Encounter directed by David Lean. communityraillancashire.co.uk People Power: Find hundreds of carfree walks in the UK at carfreewalks.org and a network of walking routes that connect Britain’s towns and villages at sloways. org. Keep an eye out too for the ‘Walkers are Welcome’ logo given to over 100 towns and villages that are particularly welcoming to walkers. Heart of Wales Line Trail This trail is linked to the many of the stations along the rural Heart of Wales railway that runs between Swansea and Shrewsbury, passing through remote uplands of the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, the Radnorshire Forest and Brecon Beacons, the woodland and salt marshes of the Loughor valley and on to the Millennium Coastal Park in Llanelli. The entire route is 143 miles (230km), but you can easily do it in car-free stages, accessing it at the various railway stations along the way. The trail also links up with several other long-distance paths such as the Shropshire Way at Craven Arms; Offa’s Dyke Path and Glyndwr’s Way at Knighton/Llangynllo; the Wye Valley walk at Newbridge-on-Wye/Builth Wells; and the Wales Coast Path at Loughor, near to Llanelli (heart-of-wales.co.uk). England’s Coast Path England’s Coast Path is a new National Trail (nationaltrail.co.uk), which will run all the way around the country’s seashore. Most sections are already open, and when it’s complete it will be around 2,800-mile long, making it the longest continuous coastal path in the world. There are any number of railways and bus connections along the route. One of the most fascinating stretches is the 11-mile (17.7km) walk along the Durham Heritage Coast from Seaham railway station to Crimdon (you can get the train back at Hartlepool railway station). Walk through the region’s industrial heritage, passing wonderful wildflower meadows and via some beautiful beaches. Keep an eye out at sea for basking sharks, they’re frequently sighted off the Durham Heritage Coast during the summer. durhamheritagecoast.org Pembrokeshire Coast Path The 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path, from St Dogmaels in the north to Amroth in the south, is connected by five coastal bus services – the Puffin Shuttle, Poppit Rocket, Strumble Shuttle, Celtic Coaster and Coastal Cruiser – operating seven days a week from May to September, and two days a week in winter. They all operate on a Hail and Ride basis in rural areas, so you have to flag down the driver to stop. It means you can be picked up or set down at any point along the bus route, providing it is safe to do so. The buses go to many of the crucial stages along the coastal path, such as St Brides Bay, Marloes and Bosherston. The main gateway railway station for the coastal path is at Carmarthen, and there are bus services from Haverfordwest where the Puffin Shuttle connects with St Davids and Milford Haven. pembrokeshire.gov.uk Walks from railway stations Several rail operators provide information on walking routes from their stations: Scotrail.co.uk/scotland-by-rail/things-do/walking-routes-train northernrailway.co.uk/great-days-out/days-out/ midcheshirerail.org.uk northstaffsrail.org.uk/rails-totrails-station-walks settle-carlisle.co.uk/walks southeasternrailway.co.uk/destinations-and-offers/local-escapes/ eastsuffolklines.co.uk/walks west-somerset-railway.co.uk/walking-and-running-beside-thewest-somerset-railway greatscenicrailways.co.uk/great-days-out/walks == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (£18.99 Pavilion Books) by Richard Hammond

As part of our ongoing series on Car-Free Travel, Richard Hammond provides a few examples of car-free days out in Britain (see also our post on Car-free walks in Britain) Travelling on trains and buses makes the journey all part of the day out. On the way you can read the paper, play cards, take time to switch off. Without being tied to where you’ve parked the car, you can do linear walks and bike rides, and of course you can enjoy a drink before returning home. Most major cities have excellent rail and bus networks, so you can travel across town without the hassle of parking, or head out to the countryside to many wonderful visitor attractions that often give discounts if you arrive by public transport. Here are a few examples of car-free days out: leave the car and the congestion behind, and away you go! Centre for Alternative Technology (CAT), Machynlleth, Wales Learn all about modern sustainable living at the epicentre for all things green in the UK. CAT was established by a group of environmental scientists and engineers in 1973 on the site of a disused slate quarry, initially to reinvent green technologies, but it then evolved into a demonstration and teaching centre for practical solutions for a decarbonizing world. Despite its name, it now provides hands-on learning for all aspects of sustainability (not just alternative energy), including environmentally friendly building techniques, woodland management, organic gardening, ecology and conservation of biodiversity. The large outdoor centre has lots of fun wildlife activities for children to connect with nature and the environment. You can also stay overnight at CAT in one of several eco cabins (each sleeps up to 18) or in the Wales Institute for Sustainable Education (WISE) building, which has 24 twin and double rooms. From the railway station in Machynlleth, take Bus 34 or T2 to CAT. At the ticket office, it’s a 10-minute walk up the steep steps to the site’s entrance, but from Easter to October you can take a water-powered cliff railway up to the top (cat.org.uk). Plan a good journey: Find how to travel car-free to many of the UK’s best visitor attractions with discounts when you arrive by train, bus, bike or on foot at goodjourney.org.uk New Forest Tour, Hampshire The car-free New Forest Tour is a hop-on, hop-off bus service that runs each summer on three circular routes around the ancient forest and to the coast at Barton-on-Sea and Milford-on-Sea. From the top deck of the open-top bus, there are grandstand views of the wild ponies grazing and the many historic villages of the New Forest, en route to places such as the Beaulieu National Motor Museum, Ringwood Brewery and Hythe Ferry, home to the world’s oldest pier train where you can take the short return ferry ride over to Southampton. The flexible hop-on, hop-off tickets mean you can stop off and spend some time at one of the attractions along the way and re-join the bus later in the day. The tour calls at Brockenhurst railway station, which has frequent trains from London, so it’s an effortless, car-free day out from the capital as well as from cities along the south coast, such as Southampton, Bournemouth, and Salisbury. thenewforesttour.info Whinlatter Forest Park, Keswick, Cumbria England’s only true mountain forest, Whinlatter Forest provides views across Bassenthwaite Lake, Derwentwater and Keswick and is home to the longest purpose-built mountain bike trails in the Lake District. You can hire bikes and head off on one of the bike trails (Altura, Gorse and Quercus) to reach the viewpoints with speedy descents or take part in mountain bike orienteering along a combination of forest roads and parts of the Quercus trail. There’s also horse riding through the forest, guided walks with alpacas, or you could spend a few hours on the high-ropes course at the onsite activity centre. During the summer, you can reach Whinlatter on the hourly 77/77A bus from Keswick, a wonderful route that’s also known as the Honister Rambler – one of Britain’s most scenic bus routes. Route dates and times may vary so do check the Stagecoach timetable before you travel (stagecoachbus.com). You get free admission if you arrive by bus or by bike (forestryengland.uk). St Mawes Castle, Truro, Cornwall The English Heritage St Mawes Castle is one of the most elaborately decorated and best-preserved of Henry VIII’s coastal artillery fortresses built to defend the anchorage of Carrick Roads by the Fal estuary on the south coast of Cornwall. The best way to approach the castle is by sea on the foot ferry from Falmouth, which runs almost every day of the year. The ferry departs from the Prince of Wales Pier, just a short walk from Falmouth Town railway station. After a morning at the castle, you can spend the afternoon at Gyllyngvase Beach, a wide, arching Blue Flag sandy beach from where it’s just a 10-minute walk back to the station for the journey home (english-heritage.org.uk). Scottish Seabird Centre, North Berwick, Scotland Learn about Scottish marine life – deep sea corals, kelp forests, marine mammals and the 5 million seabirds that breed around the Scottish coast each year – at this innovative interactive discovery centre. There are live cameras to zoom in on the local wildlife but if you want to get closer to the action, there are several boat trips out to the Firth of Forth, including a 1-hour cruise around the island of Craigleith and the Bass Rock, home to the world’s largest colony of northern gannets – if you’re lucky you may also spot a dolphin. The centre is a 15-minute walk from North Berwick railway station, which is about 30 minutes by train from Edinburgh Waverley (seabird.org).  Weekend first For a small fee, many UK train operators allow you to upgrade to first class at the weekend and on Bank Holidays. Prices vary depending on the operator and the length of your journey, but they all allow you access to the larger, more comfortable seats with extra legroom, plus facilities such as enhanced Wi-Fi and hot and cold drinks served at your seat in the usually quieter first-class carriages (nationalrail.co.uk). == This is an edited extract from The Green Traveller (£18.99 Pavilion Books) by Richard Hammond

Natalie Beckett reveals a series of new eco tours aimed at protecting the Mediterranean's biodiversity across a network of natural parks that are taking the lead on responsible tourism The Mediterranean, with its sparkling blue sea, sandy coves tucked among cliffs and many picturesque islands, is famed for its natural beauty. And over the past decade, certain trends and events, including the move towards greater awareness of wellbeing, the impact of the pandemic and the increased reach of social media, have propelled nature-centric trips and holidays into the mainstream. As more tourists flock to the Med, natural parks in the region have reaped the benefits, but the footfall has come at a cost. Exploitation of the Mediterranean’s most precious natural habitats has increased and this popularity is putting a strain on the Med’s biodiversity. Ironically, it is the beauty of these natural landscapes and their Instagrammable potential that has everyone visiting in the first place. Yet despite this, there are also natural parks in the region that remain undiscovered and are suffering the opposite problem, a lack of tourism. But a group of natural parks and conservation and tourism organisations are combating this by taking the reins and running their own ecotourism experiences. Operating as the MEET (Mediterranean Experience of Eco Tourism) Network and set up in 2018, the parks are empowering their local communities and supporting nature conservation efforts, while also attracting tourists. MEET was created with the belief that if the parks played a more active role in tourism, their biodiversity would be protected and any profits would drive local economic growth. Some of MEET's ecotourism experiences across the 9 protected areas of the Mediterranean Photos @MEET (authors: Christoper Willan and Richard Hammond/Green Traveller) With support from EU-funded programmes (which has identified sustainable tourism development as a priority for the region), with funding for the trips provided by DestiMED PLUS, the MEET Network created a catalogue of what they call ‘park-led’ ecotourism experiences. These multi-day ecotourism packages aim to allow visitors to re-discover Mediterranean natural parks through a new nature-focused lens, while also giving them the opportunity to connect with local people and their traditions. The footprint per tourist was measured for each trip and is expressed below in terms of Global hectares* (gha). ======= Green Traveller’s videographer Richard Hammond journeyed around the Mediterranean to experience MEET’s unique form of ecotourism first hand, filming a series of videos about the unique experiences in each location. Below are all the videos he produced, providing a taste of what travellers can expect: Asterousia Mountains Biosphere Reserve, Greece This is the stunning Asterousia Mountains Biosphere Reserve in Crete, Greece with its rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and fascinating wildlife. From olive oil production to hiking the sacred summit of Kofinas, MEET’s multi-day experience includes a memorable hike through the Agiofarago Gorge and the chance of a refreshing swim at Agiofarago beach. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.025 gha* per tourist Divjakë Karavasta National Park, Albania Albania isn’t always first on the list for Western tourists, which is what makes visiting the largely untouched Divjakë Karavasta National Park such a special experience. Including boat tours and sunrise hikes, as well as beer tasting and a stonemasonary workshop, MEET’s multi-day tour here strikes a balance between adventure and relaxation. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.11 gha* per tourist Cres Lošinj Natura 2000 Site, Croatia In Croatia we explore the stunning Cres Lošinj Natura 2000 Site on an ecotourism tour designed to appeal to all the senses. Discover the mountainous islands of Cres and Losinj and enjoy their pristine beaches and clear blue waters which are home to the only resident populations of dolphins in the Adriatic Sea. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.061 gha* per tourist Porto Conte, Sardinia A walking, e-bike and sailing tour of this special part of the island. Visit the prehistoric megalithic known as Nuraghi and sail to the Cape known as the “Sleeping Giant” where inside there's the famous stalactite cave of “Neptune’s Grotto”. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.0076 gha* per tourist per day Ventotene and Santo Stefano Nature Reserve, Italy The Pontine Islands in Italy are also known as the ‘Pearls of the Mediterranean’. MEET has worked with Ventotene and Santo Stefano Nature Reserve to carefully curate an itinerary that shows them at their best. You can expect delicious vegetarian dinners, guided tours of local historical sites and marine reserves, and charming cobbled Italian streets. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.008 gha* per tourist per day Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park, Andalusia, Spain Expect a proper escape into the wilderness on a four- or five-day tour through Andalusia’s Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park. The ecotourism experience here aims to emphasise the park’s lesser-known parts and includes a hike with a local shepherd and their endangered Celtiberian goats, stargazing, and a visit to a traditional salt flat. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.09 gha* per tourist Bouches de Bonifacio, Corsica From Bonifacio, the oldest city on Corsica, you’ll head out to the Natural Reserve where you meet local producers who will show you their land, their craft and will introduce you to local production and tradition, including a Corsican wine Tasting, permaculture garden with seasonal fruits and vegetables and edible flowers. You’ll also take a trip out by boat to go snorkelling in the clear waters of the Lavezzu Island. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.078 gha per tourist La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Spain La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in Catalonia has become a role model for sustainable tourism across the Mediterranean region. The highlight is walking across dormant volcanoes, while learning about geology from a local guide. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of 0.097 gha per tourist. Protected Area of North Karpathos and Saria Island, Greece If you’re looking for a taste of local life in Greece, you’ll do no better than a visit to the North Karpathos and Saria Island Protected Area. The multi-day ecotourism experience here includes snorkelling in crystal-clear waters, guided walks around historic towns, visits to local archaeological museums and a cooking demonstration followed by live Karpathian music and dance lessons. >> This itinerary has an ecological footprint of around 0.065 gha* per tourist == This article appeared in the April/May 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine. *According to the Global Footprint Network, Global Hectares "are the accounting unit for the Ecological Footprint and Biocapacity accounts. These productivity weighted biologically productive hectares allow researchers to report both the biocapacity of the earth or a region and the demand on biocapacity (the Ecological Footprint)".

As part of our feature on safaris that give back, Paul Bloomfield spoke to several experts on responsible safaris in Africa and provides a round-up of six safaris that are making a positive impact on nature conservation and local communities Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya “The tourism options at Ol Pejeta are very diverse, and it’s very affordable and accessible,” says Neil Birnie. “Perhaps the majority of the visitors are local Kenyans, and it generates a lot of revenue and a lot of jobs, winning prizes for tax contributions at the county level. So it’s making a real social, economic and, consequently, political contribution to Kenya.” It also combines cutting-edge wildlife conservation work, notably helping endangered rhinos, with sustainable cattle ranching. Watch our video about Ol Pejeta: A Green Traveller production for the World Travel and Tourism Council Tongole Wilderness Lodge, Malawi “This lovely little lodge has a great community aspect,” says Chris McIntyre. The eco-friendly lodge is the only luxury accommodation in the Nkhotakota Wildlife Reserve, with some fabulous walking and birdlife. Through the Tongole Foundation, it has strong links with the local community, helping build schools and share knowledge about conservation to help change attitudes to poaching. Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge, Rwanda “This community-owned lodge has been immensely successful in gorilla tourism, and has generated a huge amount of money for the community,” says Birnie. “And it’s made a valuable contribution in terms of the wider gorilla tourism model.” Income from the luxurious lodge funds conservation initiatives in the Kinigi area and surrounding Volcanoes National Park. It’s also a major driver of socio-economic development in the area, with projects ranging from constructing villages for genocide survivors to creating vegetable gardens for community farming projects. Doro Nawas, Namibia “Is it a business? Yes. Is it a community project? Yes – it’s both,” says McIntyre. Like the nearby Damaraland Camp, it’s a joint venture between Wilderness and the local community – and is a good example of the growing cooperation in Namibia between the tourism industry and individual communities. Most of the staff at the eco-friendly lodge come from the surrounding villages, having been trained to fill various positions here, and the conservancy and its people benefit from the revenue generated. Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, Zimbabwe “Clive Stockil, who set up this lodge in Gonarezhou National Park, has won more environmental sustainability awards than I’ve had hot dinners,” says McIntyre. The lodge has an intimate working relationship with the local Shangaan community. At its core is the concept of ‘Community Led Conservation’ in Zimbabwe’s secondlargest national park, renowned for its elephant population and a great place for walking safaris. Cottar’s 1920s Camp, Kenya “This centuries-old Masai Mara camp in the Olderkesi Conservancy is a shining example of sustainable luxury travel,” says Juliet Kinsman, author of The Green Edit: Travel (Ebury Publishing, September 2020). “Its commitment to a holistic balance of the Long Run’s 4C framework, and consideration of conservation, community, culture and commerce as a means to contribute meaningfully to the biodiversity and the people of the local region, sets a benchmark.” == This article appeared in the August/September 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

As part of our feature on Walking the world, responsibly, Sarah Baxter picks out trekking companies to consider for your next trip Climbing Kilimanjaro Trekking specialist Adventure Alternative doesn’t just employ people on the ground to run its trips, it has set up local companies that operate as sustainable, independent entities. Workers get the same rights as they’d get in the UK; money stays in the country; and profits are ploughed back into training. On its Kilimanjaro climbs, trekkers are encouraged to engage with the local crew. “I encourage my guides to have deeper conversations with guests; they have the green light to bring up big subjects such as water equity on the mountain,” says Bate. Hiking into the Himalaya Village Ways runs village-to-village walks in spectacular, little-visited corners of the Himalayas that ensure communities directly benefit. They’re pictured throughout this feature, and include Binsar, Kathdhara and Gonap in the Indian Himalayas. “It begins with selecting places with the potential for low-impact tourism,” says managing director Manisha Pande. “We then involve host communities from the start, making them partners in the project and ensuring benefits are spread throughout the community.” This increase in local pride has translated into environmental positives: for example, in the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, sightings of rare birds and mammals are on the rise. Walking Wild in Colombia Adventure travel specialist Much Better Adventures (MBA) admits there’s a problem with tourism – “We will never say ‘this is a sustainable holiday’,” says Megan Devenish, head of product expansion and sustainability, “All we can say is that this trip is taking steps towards being sustainable.” MBA only works with 100% locally-owned ground-handlers, specifically seeking out those that go the extra mile to benefit local communities. For example, its Lost City trek in Colombia is guided by members of one of the last remaining tribes in the region, and its one-of-a-kind jungle trek-and-raft trip is led by locals that have turned an area previously wracked by civil war into a conservation success. Perambulating in Peru Intrepid, which runs a huge variety of trips across the globe, including treks, is a certified B Corporation. This means everything the company does has been externally assessed and verified, and is a helpful steer for trekkers when they’re deciding which company to travel with – especially on routes that are not regulated. Such is the case in Peru, when it comes to looking beyond the classic Inca Trail. Intrepid runs an Inca Quarry Trail that offers spectacular scenery and lesser-known archaeological sites without the crowds, while Amazonas Explorer, also a B Corporation, takes trekkers on alternative Inca routes, such as its newly created Waqrapukara Trek above the Apurimac Canyon. Ambling across Andros The network of trails on the rugged Greek island of Andros is one of the few to have been awarded Leading Quality Trails status by the European Ramblers Association. Hikers visiting Andros don’t only help extend the island’s holiday season beyond the typical July/August window, they help to maintain the island’s heritage: the trails here have been used for millennia but, due to recent depopulation and lifestyle changes, are at risk of being lost forever. “Trekkers coming, transmitting that there is something of value here, generates pride and positivity,” says the founder of Andros Routes, Olga Karayiannis. “By walking you’re keeping the history alive.” == This article appeared in the October/November 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Tackling a meaty trek is a wonderful way to explore, but how do you make sure you’re giving back as much as you’re getting from the experience? Sarah Baxter shares her essential insight (see also Sarah's feature on responsible trekking companies to consider for your next trip) Trekking can be the most rewarding way to travel: slow-paced, big-spaced, away from the crowds, immersed in the great outdoors. And it is, by its nature, a more sustainable way to explore. You’re travelling under your own steam, often in small groups, usually in remoter regions. But how can you ensure your footsteps have the lightest impact on the environment and the most positive effect on local people? The key is to do your research. Know who you are travelling with and what that company’s principles are, which means asking your tour operator proper questions. “Don’t just ask: are you sustainable? That’s too easy to just have the answer be ‘yes’,” says Christina Beckman, senior director of strategy and impact with the Adventure Travel Trade Association. “Ask: how are you a sustainable company? Have you invested in sustainability? How will locals benefit from this tour I’m considering?” Ask how staff are treated. Are porters and guides paid fairly? Is information on climate change and environmental protection part of their training? How does the company invest in their future? Ask what size your group will be. Large groups can overwhelm local communities. “Tourism needs to be small and empathetic,” says Gavin Bate from trekking specialists Adventure Alternative. “We try to not be part of the problem by not sending too many people to the same place.” Don’t just rely on the company itself for answers. Seek testimonials from past clients too Don’t be embarrassed to get into the details. Ask: Will I be given loads of plastic bottles? Is food sourced locally? Do you use biodegradable waste bags? Solarpowered lamps? Local transport? Don’t just rely on the company itself for answers. Seek testimonials from past clients – a good operator will be happy to share that information. Research whether the company is a member of a carbon offset scheme or organisation such as 1% for the Planet (contributing at least 1% of annual sales to environmental causes). Has the company been evaluated by third parties such as the Rainforest Alliance? Is it a B Corporation? “It’s pretty easy for companies to fake their sustainability credentials through their own marketing channels, so travellers need to dig beneath that,” says Gary Cohen, Intrepid Travel’s managing director for Latin America. “Consider whether operators have any reliable external certification, which is far more objective.” A good way to lessen your impact is not to trek where everyone else is – to hike away from tourist honeypots and into areas where tourism can still bring considerable benefits. “The world is waking up to overtourism – look at those images of heaving trails on Everest and Snowdon,” says Megan Devenish, head of product expansion and sustainability at Much Better Adventures. “Instead, go off the beaten track as much as possible. Think about the experience; break the bucket list mentality.” Of course, trekkers will always be drawn to high profile routes such as Kilimanjaro and Everest Base Camp. And there are some positives to come from popularity. “In the 1980s the numbers climbing Kilimanjaro were far lower but those people made more mess. Now Kili sees around 40,000 trekkers a year but the mountain is pretty clean,” says Bate. But if you choose to tick off a headline trek, you still need to quiz your tour operator. “Going to Kilimanjaro? Ask about the company your operator works with in Tanzania – what is their relationship to them? Do they pay their staff well? Do staff get proper rest between trips? Ensure you’re going on a holiday that gives people economic dignity,” adds Bate. And compare prices. Paul Cripps is the founder of Cusco-based Amazonas Explorer, which takes people on adventures around the Sacred Valley and beyond – including the Inca Trail. “In Peru you get what you pay for,” he says. “If it’s cheap, you need to be asking questions.” There are things you can do on a practical level, too. For instance, ensure your toiletries are biodegradable and don’t contain chemicals that will leach into the soil. Consider your use of trekking poles – they can be beneficial for your knees but damaging to the soil and vegetation. If you take them, use them only when needed, be mindful of where you plant them and consider fitting rubber tips to the metal ends. Don’t litter – carry out rubbish you create and pick up other people’s rubbish too, if possible. And talk about litter, to keep the issue on the agenda. That means asking trek operators, hoteliers and restaurant owners what happens with waste, what their policies are on single-use items, and whether they have recycling facilities. Learn about where you’re going to. Talk to the people – learn some language and don’t be afraid to try using it Take responsibility for your water consumption too. Ask your trekking company how they provide water to clients. And research how you can treat your own water – bring your own filtration bottle or purification system. At the end of your trek, consider donating any excess outdoor clothing or kit directly to your porters. Perhaps most important is not to just trek though a place, but to interact and engage with it. Learn about where you’re going. Talk to the people – learn some language and don’t be afraid to try using it. Spend money on local crafts and at small, local-run businesses. “One of my biggest peeves is seeing travellers treating locals poorly either in outright lack of respect or taking advantage of the beauty of their locations or cultures without any giving back,” says Beckman. “Travel is a privilege, and people should learn while they are doing it,” says Cripps. “It’s all part of an environmental lesson. We show people places in order to help protect them; the aim is to create advocates for the planet.” == This article appeared in the October/November 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Travel writer Paul Bloomfield explores how we can choose African safaris that support both nature preservation and local communities (see also Six of the best conservation and community safaris) A leopard lounges on a branch, sheltering from the midday heat. A giraffe plucks leaves from a thorny acacia with its long, black, curiously prehensile tongue. An elephant snorts up water in its trunk from a muddy pool before hosing it into its mouth. Heart-stopping moments like these make an African safari unforgettable – and, for many of us, a once-in-a-lifetime experience. After all, such holidays come at a cost – not just to your bank balance but also to the environment: for most travellers, reaching Africa involves flying, and while airlines continue to use fossil fuels to power their aircraft, there are significant carbon emissions involved in such journeys. Safaris themselves also place demands on the local environment, natural resources, and people. However, wildlife conservation on the continent is heavily dependent on tourism, which largely caters to overseas visitors – if tourists stop flying to Africa, the situation for much of its wildlife is likely to deteriorate. “Most state-run national parks and protected areas receive only about 30% of their total budgets from governments, and rely on tourism to fund the balance,” says Colin Bell, co-founder of Natural Selection Safaris. “Private game reserves, in contrast, rely completely on tourism revenues to cover their management costs.” Safaris also provide important support for communities. “In many southern Africa lodges, the community that leases their lands to the safari company earns a base annual rental plus a percentage of turnover that can be anywhere from 4% to 10% of gross revenues (not profits) of the lodge,” adds Bell. “Under these revenue-sharing models, communities always earn money for leasing their wildlife lands regardless of occupancies, even in the worst years.” “Many countries are moving away from mass tourism towards a lower density, higher revenue safari tourism model which results in far less impact on the environment and is ultimately more sustainable,” he continues. “The job ratio in higher-end safari lodges in most parts of Africa now often results in one guest supporting anywhere from two to five jobs in a lodge – and a staff member in a rural area has between 10 and 15 dependents, so the tourism reach into communities can be significant.” Safari operators are increasingly making claims about their social and environmental credentials, so how can you tell the green from the greenwash? The devil is in the detail. Who owns the safari operator – local communities, an individual or private company in the country you’re visiting, or a large international business? Fortunately, operators offering the most memorable safari experiences and accommodation also tend to be those with a strong conservation and community ethos. “Those with the good ethics are typically also the ones clients really like,” observes Chris McIntyre, managing director of specialist tour operator Expert Africa. It’s worth knowing whether local communities have any equity or revenue share in the business – if so, that should ensure not just benefits for that community, but may also enhance their investment in conservation of the wildlife in their region, the long-term viability of the safari business, its lasting commitment to conservation, and the visitor experience. “If it’s a longer agreement, very often the property management has a greater platform to invest in people, to invest in the quality of their product, to invest in marketing, to make a better business, to train local people, and to make it a much more meaningful operation,” says Neil Birnie, from Conservation Capital, which facilitates the financing of natural capital projects throughout Africa. “A lodge that supports a small area of high biodiversity importance is playing a hugely valuable role”. If possible, find out how the reserve, park, or conservancy you’re visiting operates – their funding, and how the managing organisation assists communities and conservation. “Private conservation areas with landowners who pay levies, or privately managed areas that are well funded through international philanthropy, have a more sustainable funding base than many national parks and other government or community-owned areas that are often largely or even entirely dependent on tourism to fund conservation efforts,” says Andrew Parker, co-founder of Conserve and former director of Conservation Development at African Parks. Often, rates listed by accommodation providers specify payments to local communities and conservation levies. But what other contributions to communities does the operator make? Just as important as cash income is the provision of jobs backed by skills transfer and mentorship, especially for more senior roles. What proportion of employees come from local communities? This often increases over the length of a concession, as more people are trained up and become skilled. “It’s unlikely that a senior guide or top chef will come from the local area initially,” comments Birnie, “but most of the wider staff could – and, with training, they could rise through the ranks. So if there’s a long term agreement, by year 10 or 15 perhaps 90% or more of the staff might be drawn from the local area.” Where some fall down is on the quality of accommodation provided to staff, many of whom may be recruited from the local community. “An often overlooked issue is how staff are looked after,” says Parker. “Guests should ask to see back-of-house facilities to hold the operator accountable.” Other questions might be: does the safari operator use local companies for the procurement of goods and services such as food products and cleaning? Are they also involved in conservation or research work – for example, anti-poaching patrols or scientific projects? And are these very local, or larger in scope? “Scale is an important issue,” says Parker. “There are huge economies of scale in conservation, and conservation works better in terms of contributing to functioning ecosystems at scale. Hence a lodge that supports efforts over a larger area is playing a more important role than a lodge that benefits a smaller area. That said, a lodge that supports a small area of high biodiversity importance is playing a hugely valuable role.” Consider off-season travel, where this can help sustain communities and offer a completely different perspective Even small local projects can have a significant impact. “The direct contribution of camps and lodges might be relatively minimal,” adds Birnie, “but they have the capacity to act as an engine inspiring guests to support conservation or support local community development initiatives, which in turn foster greater support by local people for conservation.” You can also make a difference with the choices you make before booking and during your trip. Consider visiting less well known countries to distribute revenue more widely – Angola, Mozambique or Zimbabwe, perhaps. “In countries where conservation as a land use is under pressure, foreign exchange earnings from tourism confer significant political collateral,” says Parker. “Booking with one of the bigger operators that has a facility in a less-known area is probably the best approach, as the financial flows will be guarded by the prevailing concession agreement.” Consider off-season travel, where this can help sustain communities and offer a completely different perspective on an area that even experienced safari enthusiasts may find rewarding – the rainy ‘emerald season’ (November to May) in Zambia is an increasingly popular option, for example, with lower rates, lush vegetation and rich birdlife. Think about visiting community conservancies or private reserves as alternatives to the more popular national parks. The conservancies around Kenya’s Masai Mara offer exclusive experiences and fine wildlife sightings, as well as contributing to communities and conservation. Finally, consider the impact you want your holiday to have on you and the destination. “A key idea is for people to approach travel as an opportunity to effect meaningful change rather than to simply indulge,” says Parker. “Transformational travel is the new buzzword – people want to be changed by their experience, and also to leave the world a better place because of their interaction with it.” == This article appeared in the August/September 2023 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Tapping into community-run ventures and social enterprises is a great way to get into the heart and soul of a place while giving back to the places you love to visit. Some of these hubs are run as non-profits, others are run by passionate local people and volunteers and wouldn’t exist without their commitment. Here are five brilliant community run enterprises in the UK: 1 THE VILLAGE SHOP In the historic Somerset village of Mells, the shop and post office is run by a team of about 50 volunteers, rotating shifts, job- sharing, fundraising and caring for the window displays and plants. It supports a wide range of local producers, including cold meats from Thorner’s of Somerset and home-baked cakes from Frome Country Market. The community also raised funds to build a café next door to the shop, which was opened by Mary Berry and serves hearty breakfasts, home-cooked lunches and teas seven days a week. mellsvillage.co.uk 2 THE PUB The Pack Horse Inn is a 17th century pub in the village of South Stoke on the outskirts of Bath, and was given a makeover when it was bought by the local community in 2016. The interior has a wonderful olde English charm with inglenooks and ancient beams, while outside there’s a lovely beer garden from where you can feast on locally inspired dishes and sup cider and local ale looking out over the glorious Midford Valley. packhorsebath.co.uk PUB IS THE HUB Inspired by Prince Charles in 2001, Pub is the Hub is a not-for-profit organisation that works to strengthen the connection between pubs and their local communities. There are over 150 across the UK, including many that have diversified into other retail outlets, such as delis, bakeries, farm shops, and village stores. To find one near you, search pubisthehub.org.uk 3 THE RESTAURANT Brigade Bar + Bistro is in a beautiful old Victorian fire station near London Bridge Station, serving brunch, lunch and dinner. It’s run by a social enterprise, Beyond Food, that helps homeless people get into work by giving them work experience in the kitchens and training them to become chefs. thebrigade.co.uk 4 THE ARTS CENTRE Dartington Trust is an arts, ecology and social justice charity, which runs a social-enterprise hub for retreats, festivals and summer schools as well as a visitor centre on a 1,200-acre estate near Totnes in South Devon. There’s a campsite, hostel- style rooms and a fisherman’s cabin next to the River Dart. Explore the glorious gardens and deer park trails and dine on local food in the medieval Great Hall. dartington.org 5 THE HERITAGE CENTRE Maidenhead Heritage Centre is run mainly by volunteers to showcase the history of the town, particularly the operations of the Air Transport Auxiliary, whose headquarters was at White Waltham Airfield during the Second World War. The star attraction is the Spitfire Simulator Experience, where you can sit in the pilot’s seat of a Spitfire rigged up to a wide-screen electronic simulator and get a taste of the thrill of flying these awesome machines. maidenheadheritage.org.uk This article also appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

Richard Hammond introduces The Long Run, a global alliance of nature-based tourism businesses that’s had a recent flurry of new members. These pioneering holidays are based on a holistic balance of conservation, community, culture, and commerce, protecting important biodiverse habitats while building local livelihoods. When The Long Run says it collectively conserves 23 million acres of land and its biodiversity, it can be hard to grapple with just how large a space that is. Picture the size of Portugal and you’re pretty much there – it’s a lot. A global alliance of nature-based tourism businesses, The Long Run was founded in 2009 by Jochen Zeitz (who’s also founder of the ZEITZ Foundation for Intercultural Ecosphere Safety), when it was profiling nine destinations chosen for their commitment and unique approach to sustainability. Watch this video introducing The Long Run: Video produced by Green Traveller productions The collaboration of these nine destinations provided the basis on which The Long Run developed its approach and strategy — “protecting wilderness in perpetuity” via the 4Cs, a holistic balance of conservation, community, culture, and commerce. The initiative has evolved to become one of the world’s largest nature- based business initiatives and now has over 60 members worldwide. “Bringing like-minded people together and leveraging connectivity between them to accelerate change makes The Long Run a very powerful community” Dr Anne-Kathrin Zschiegner, executive director at The Long Run. “Because then you’re sharing best practice and inspiring one another; what somebody did in Costa Rica can be replicated in New Zealand, can be replicated in Kenya; in a different way, but ideas and sparks come from talking with others. The Long Run has a lot of diversity of approaches, locations, business models – and that diversity really helps create change and drive innovation.” Accommodations, lodges, and privately protected areas join The Long Run as Fellow Members (recently joined members include Castle Leslie in Ireland and Sirikoi Lodge in the Lewa Conservancy, Kenya) and work towards becoming a ‘Global Ecosphere Retreat’ (GER), a standard for best practice that involves a rigorous, onsite, external assessment recognised by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council. Spot this accreditation and it's a marker of excellence. The GER standard looks for evidence that the business goes beyond merely mitigating its negative environmental impacts and actively works to positively impact the well- being of the planet and the local people. Members must be commercially profitable or commit to attaining commercial viability, “demonstrating that conserving nature is an economic imperative beyond the ethical arguments of posterity”. While many of The Long Run members serve the luxury travel market, the organisation is looking to widen its portfolio of businesses to cater for all budgets. “It’s a very accessible model,” explains Holly Tuppen, head of communications at The Long Run. “Anyone can apply the 4Cs to their business, whether a community-owned wildlife reserve or a 20,000-acre conservancy involving multiple stakeholders.” For more information: thelongrun.org The Crème de la Crème Book a stay at one of The Long Run’s 10 Global Ecosphere Retreats and know you’re supporting nature conservation and local livelihoods: BORANA LODGE, KENYA One of East Africa’s original fully hosted, family-owned lodges, the lodge is within the 32,000-acre Borana conservation area at the foot of Mount Kenya, home to black and white rhino and many other endangered species. Guests are encouraged to get involved in conservation initiatives tracking rhino with the scouts on foot, monitoring lion movements, and engaging in local community projects. All retained earnings generated by Borana Lodge and other ranching enterprises are re-invested into the sustainable conservation of natural capital and the wildlife it supports, along with building local livelihoods. SASAAB, SAMBURU, KENYA Close to the Buffalo Springs National Reserve in Kenya’s Northern Frontier District, Sasaab is a joint venture between The Safari Collection, Westgate Community Conservancy and The Northern Rangelands Trust. With far-reaching views across the Laikipia Plateau towards Mount Kenya, the reserve is home to the ‘Samburu Special Five’– beisa oryx, reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, gerenuk antelope and Somali ostrich. The local Samburu community plays an active role in the conservation of endangered species while also benefiting from Sasaab-supported health and education projects (that improve the lives of over 600 families). GROOTBOS NATURE RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA In one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, amid mountains and ancient indigenous forest, Grootbos – together with the Grootbos Foundation – protects 790 plant species, many of which are found nowhere else on Earth. Its five-star eco-lodges and exclusive use, private villas provide an immersive luxury experience among the fynbos and offer expansive views over the rich marine haven of Walker Bay. Recently, Grootbos has undergone an external audit that found that Grootbos sequesters more carbon than it emits. COTTAR’S 1920’S SAFARI CAMP, KENYA On its own 6,000-acre private conservancy in south-east Mara, guests are well placed to experience the great wildebeest migration from July to October. The area is home to the remaining 7% of woodlands that support several species that are under threat, including Impala, buffalo, and giraffe, and it is also home to a large proportion of the Mara’s rhino population. Since establishing the Cottars’ Wildlife Conservation Trust (CWCT) in 1996, the camp has persuaded local communities that it is more financially viable to protect wildlife than damage it. The CWCT is now advocating for the establishment of a new Olderikesi Conservancy, which would be managed by CWCT on behalf of the community and help conserve 6,600 acres of acacia and cedar forests, natural springs, grasslands, and salt pans. NIKOI ISLAND, INDONESIA A 37-acre private island resort, two and a half hours by boat from Singapore, Nikoi’s co-founder Andrew Dixon set about to conserve as much of this nature- abundant enclave of rainforest, beaches and coral reefs as possible while creating a community-friendly resort. The 15 villas were constructed from sustainably sourced driftwood and alang alang grass roofing; a nod to both traditional Indonesian architecture and modern design. Designed to maximise air flow, there is no air- conditioning (or fridges) in the villas, and solar panels provide the hot water. Catering to a maximum of 50 guests at any one time, Nikoi bills itself as “a paradise island where the environment is king”. CAIMAN, PANTANAL, BRAZIL Founded 35 years ago by a nature-loving conservationist, Caiman is named after one of the many species found within its 53,000-hectares — the caiman Yacaré — and is also home to jaguars, blue-fronted parrots, hyacinth macaws, giant anteaters and howler monkeys. Caiman uses income from ecotourism to fund conservation efforts, while simultaneously preserving traditional ranching methods. The refuge is also the base for pioneer conservation initiatives such as Onçafari, Hyacinth Macaw Institute and Blue Fronted Parrot. TAHI, NORTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND Maori for ‘first place of plenty’, Ohuatahi in New Zealand’s North Island is home to the secluded sanctuary of Tahi: 800 acres of golden sands and South Pacific surf meet estuaries, wetlands and native forest. As the result of an extensive wetland restoration, indigenous planting and pest control programme, Tahi is a model for commercially-minded conservation. The owners adhere to sustainable principles in everything they do; luxury hospitality is integrated with a profound respect for natural surroundings. Over 11 years, 280,000 indigenous trees have been planted and 14 wetlands have been restored. As a testament to their success, birds have returned to Tahi, having vanished after years of neglect as a run-down cattle farm. The sanctuary is now home to over 65 species of native birds, including the endangered Australian brown bittern. The reawakening of Tahi is as much about the local Maori community as it is about the land. Priority is given to neighbouring residents when it comes to procurement and employment and the sanctuary carries out several Maori education initiatives. WOLWEDANS, NAMIBRAND NATURE RESERVE, NAMIBIA A portfolio of luxury camps within one of Southern Africa’s largest private reserves – over 400,000 acres of the otherworldly landscape of the NamibRand Nature Reserve in southwestern Namibia. As the principal concessionaire, Wolwedans has contributed more than $1.5 million towards the conservation of NamibRand Nature Reserve. Namibian culture is also at the heart of the business – the Wolwedans Foundation supports the social uplift of local communities through vocational training at the Desert Academy and the Namibian Institute of Culinary Education. The camps have been designed using low-impact building techniques and sustainable technologies; the environment can fully restore itself within just a few months of a camp’s deconstruction. A ‘sustainability tour’ educates guests about the onsite organic garden, grey-water system, solar farm and organic waste management. SEGERA RANCH AND RETREAT, KENYA Established by The Long Run’s founder Jochen Zeitz in 2005, Segera’s 50,000 acres of African wilderness, “proves that luxury can be sustainable”. It’s here that the Zeitz Foundation, The Long Run and the 4C’s were pioneered. What was previously overgrazed land, struggling to support the surrounding communities and wildlife, is now thriving; Segera has been a catalyst for positive change. These days elephant, lion, buffalo and eland, as well as the endangered Grevy’s zebra, patas monkey and African wild dog, roam freely. Alongside establishing a Conservation Unit Programme with the Laikipia Wildlife Forum to train rangers in conservation issues, Segera runs a 20-acre agriculture plot at one of the local primary schools – to demonstrate best practice in sustainable farming and provide a valuable food resource. Citizen Science is also utilised at the ranch, with programmes like the Resource Use Assessments to empower local elders to take control of the issues that concern them, rather than relying on external experts. SINAL DO VALE, SANTO ANTONIO, BRAZIL A retreat and education centre nestled in Brazil’s lush Atlantic Rainforest (Mata Atlantica), 50km from Rio de Janeiro. Founded in 2012 by Thais Corral, a renowned social innovator, Sinal’s purpose has been to be a catalyst for tangible social and environmental change. Surrounded by one of the world’s most diverse and threatened biomes, six stucco houses and event spaces facilitate creativity, sustainable development and getting in touch with nature. Its Living Laboratory provides a platform for sustainable experimentation, providing solutions for waste management, water quality and infrastructure. The organic gardens and bio-construction projects help Sinal to explore and develop ecological food systems and eco-building techniques – both of which are passed on to the local and international community. == This article appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of the Green Traveller magazine.

by Ginny Light Over ten days in winter, we travelled from Bilbao along the spectacular coastline of northern Spain to the historic city of Santiago de Compostela, passing through the spectacular mountains of the Picos de Europa. The highlight of our trip was staying at Posada del Valle in the foothills of the Picos de Europa. It’s a family run hotel in 18 acres of organic orchards, pasture and a vegetable garden that supply the restaurant with much of its produce. We were treated to homemade apple juice and bread for breakfast, while in the evening the daily changing set menu included a soup, salad, main course, dessert or cheese, much of it picked just hours before it was served. Food is often a product of geography and history, and no more so than in Green Spain where the local fare goes far beyond the typical seaside menu – there are many familiar items such as tortilla, paella and squid but also products of the terroir, such as beef, cheese and beans. One of our favourite places was Casa Vergara 1948, a pintxos bar (small snacks held together with toothpicks) in San Sebastian’s old town, which specialises in cod, including cod cheeks and bacalao, but there were also the pintxos classics, such as tortilla and jamon Iberico. The vibe, especially on Friday and Saturday nights, is buzzy and the staff, in fashionable white shirts and black aprons, are ebullient and efficient, pouring local cider and wine from a height while diners choose from the buffet along the bar. The joy of pintxos here is that everyone eats together – old, young, tourists and locals.Gastronomy is a big draw for Green Spain, but so too is the huge variety of activities and attractions in a relatively compact area, especially given the proximity of the mountains to the coastline and the region’s avante garde cities such as Bilbao and San Sebastián. One of the most dramatic we saw was Eduardo Chillida’s three steel sculptures mounted on rocks at the western end of Ondarreta beach in San Sebastián. The situation was chosen by Basque architect Luis Peña Ganchegui to be within the tidal ranges so the sculptures look very different when viewed at high or low tide. For more information, see Green Traveller’s Guide to Green Spain This article also appeared in the February/March 2024 issue of our Green Traveller magazine.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our pick of outdoor activities across this beautiful part of southwest France. Photos left to right: Family boating in Marais Poitevin, known as 'Green Venice': Mathieu Anglada @CRTNA; Traffic-free cycling on the Vélodyssée: Alban Gilbert @CRTNA; Land art at Lac de Vassivière. Photo: Perinaud @CRTNA; Cycling in Bordeaux: Vincent Bengold/Bordeaux Tourism; Surfing: Federation Francaise de Surf/JUSTES @CRTNA; Canoeing on the Dordogne. Photo: Akim Benbrahim/Sarlat Tourism; Hiking the GR Bordeaux Métropole: Richard Hammond; Wine tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion: Richard Hammond; Cycling along the Flow Velo: Nicola Forsyth Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Guided bike tour of Bordeaux Graceful and beguiling, Bordeaux is a city relishing its joie de vivre – years after the restoration of its centre restored the original golden hues of its buildings, residents and visitors alike are exploring its UNESCO-protected historic centre and sipping coffees in its numerous cafés. With first-rate museums and galleries, splendid architecture and a wealth of restaurants, squares, and shops, Bordeaux is a pint-sized rival to Paris: but with its own distinct charms and without the capital’s tourist hordes. Cycling is a great way to get around the city. There are over 1,100km of cycle paths across the entire Metropole so there are plenty of options whether you want to go for a few hours, a full day, or longer. Bordeaux Tourism recommends the Roger Lapébie cycle path which follows an old railway line away from the city towards Créon or La Sauve, home of the magnificent Abbey of La Sauve-Majeure. There are also several parks on the outskirts of Bordeaux worth visiting, including Hermitage in Lormont, the Majolan in Blanquefort, and the ecological reserve of the Barails, to the north. For advice on the best cycle routes both within the city and on its outskirts, Esprit Cycles  has been renting (as well as selling) bikes in the city centre since 2009 and has a range of bikes for all ages and abilities, including electric bikes. Bordeaux Bike Experience  runs several tours of the city: its 'Essentials' trip last for a few hours and is billed as a 'gentle', covering about 15km along the quays to see some of the city's latest innovations "without straying too far from the architectural and historical treasures of the city centre", including the city's spectacular neoclassical architecture; it's 'Big Ride' is a full day's outing covering 25km that goes to the old part of the city as well as out into the countryside to some of the vineyards at the edge of Bordeaux. It also includes a 'pause gourmande' lunch stop at a typical local brasserie for you to sample classic Bordeaux gastronomy. It also offers private tours for those wanting to do something different, such as a night tour, include a wine tasting, ride by the sea, etc. GR Bordeaux Métropole” hiking trail The first urban Grande Randonnée (GR), or long-distance hiking trail, in France, the route winds through seventeen of the territory's 28 municipalities along its 160km length. Peppered along its path are 11 idiosyncratic suburban shelters where you can pre-book, for free, to stay overnight. Simple walking itineraries konwn as 'Super balades" have been devised for a range of options, from those wishing to go for just a 40 minute stroll to a full day's walking. See below for the map of these routes. bordeaux-metropole.fr A stretch of the GR Bordeaux Métropole” hiking trail that Green Traveller's Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth walked with local guide Dominique Busnel in the summer of 2024. Top right is 'The Cloud', one of the suburban shelters that you can book to stay overnight on the trail. Photos: Richard Hammond Wine-tasting at Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion Think you know Saint Emilion Merlot? A tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion will put your knowledge to the test. With over 80 years of experience, representing more than 12% of the entire Saint-Émilion AOC, the Union supports 145 winegrowers across 600 hectares of vines. It is a sustainable cooperative known largely, like so many local producers, for its Merlot; its wines can be tasted by the glass at its HQ in Saint-Émilion (a short walk from the railway station) where over 50 châteaux and various branded wines are on sale, or straight from the co-operative’s wine truck at local producers’ and farmers’ markets. udpse.com Hiking along the Chemin d'Amadour, Dordogne Valley Join this historic long-distance pilgrimage route that runs from Soulac-sur-mer on the Atlantic Coast inland to Rocamadour, through some of the most beautiful landscapes in southwest France (such as the Gironde estuary, the Entre-deux-Mers, the Dropt valley, the Dordogne valley, and the Causses du Quercy) and via several spectacular examples of built heritage (such as those in Bordeaux, Duras, and Bergerac, the numerous châteaux of the Dordogne valley, and the medieval cities of Domme, Sarlat, and Rocamadour). The entire length runs for 500 kilometres and includes 21 stages. Listed by UNESCO as part of the Camino de Santiago heritage, it is named after the legend of Amadour who, in the 1AD landed on the coast of Medoc and founded the first church that became Notre-Dame-de-la-fin-des-Terres in Soulac-sur-Mer. Green Traveller's Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth walked part of this trail in the summer of 2024, taking the train from Bordeaux to Le Buisson-de-Cadouin where we walked a six-kilometre section of the Chemin d’Amadour to the spectacular World Heritage Site of the 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin. chemin-amadour.fr The 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin (left and centre) and Cloitre de Cadouin (right). Photos: Richard Hammond Breathe in, Breathe out, Pedal... on the Flow Vélo A new 400km cycle route that runs from Sarlat-la-Canéda in The Dordogne Valley to the island of Aix in Charente-Maritime, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River, and through the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort that are designed as 'Art and History' stops along the way. There's a handy website laflowvelo.com , which lists a range of accommodation along all stages of the route, including campsites, gites, and hotels, flagging up those that are recognised as 'Accueil Vélo' offering specific services for cyclists. It also provides information on bike rental and repair shops, as well as over 30 recommended places to visit should you wish to stop off en route, such as the National Maritime Museum and Treetop Adventure Park in Rochefort, Penloy Castle Park in Port d'Envaux, The Walnut Grove of Borderies in Louzac-Saint-Andre, and the Abbaye aux Dames de Saintes. Canoeing along the Dordogne River It's no surprise that thousands flock to the Dordogne River each year to go canoeing and kayaking. With calm, crystal-clear waters often enclosed by towering limestone cliffs, an abundance of wildlife on the riverbanks, and a wealth of historic castles, medieval fortresses, and villages dotted along its 130-mile course, it has something for everyone. Declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its outstanding setting and heritage, there are numerous operators that operate along the river, hiring out the canoes and providing shuttle services to either drive you upstream in a minibus so that you paddle back down the river, or if you set off from the hire centre, they'll pick up at a selected location downstream. Most off half-day excursions (typically 14km) or full days (anywhere between 14km and 28km, depending on your level of fitness and experience. You can also opt for multi-day itineraries, typically 2–5 days, where you stop off en route to stay in campsites. visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk Surfing in Biarritz Surfing came to Biarritz (and France) in the 1950s and over the decades it has evolved into a sophisticated year-round sport here on the Atlantic Coast. There are five main places to go surfing: Mirama, which is popular with bodyboarders; the Basque Coast, whose easy waves are great for beginners; Marbella, a favourite with the locals; and Milady, great for experienced surfers at mid-tide. There are about 20 surf schools, such as Biarritz Surf Ocean and Biarritz Association Surf Club that can provide lessons and equipment individually or for groups, for all levels of experience. For a full list of all the schools, including prices, see destination-biarritz.fr Discover Lac de Vassivière, Limoges A whopping 1,000 hectares of water high up in the mountains of Limousin, Lac de Vassivière is one of the largest artificial lakes in France and an adventure playground for all the family. Beaumont-du-Lac is the focal point but the entire lake attracts tourists all year round. There are trails fo rhiker and mountain bikers through the forests around the lake, a variety of watersports on the lake, and free boat water taxis between the centres at Auphelle, l’Ile de Vassivière, Masgrangeas and Broussas, and for those looking for a more sedate break, there are mini cruises across the lake. Don't miss crossing over the footbridge to the island where there's a sculpture park at the Centre International d'Art et du Paysage. Kids will love Terra Adventure's geocaching treasure hunts and the Vertige Accro (Adventure park) in a forest by the edge of the lake. More information : www.vassiviere.com Surfing in Les Landes, Atlantic Coast South of Bordeaux, The Landes is a huge expanse of land in the heart of Gascony (it's the second largest department in France) with over 100 kilometres of coastline (including 15 seaside resorts) bordered by a dune ridge all the way from the mouth of the Adour river in the south up to Biscarrosse, just south of the Bay of Arcachon. The forest that covers nearly 60% of the area is Europe's largest pine forest, and there is also a series of vast freshwater lakes, as well as marshes and wetlands that are an important wintering ground for migratory birds. The extensive coastline attracts surfers of all abilities; surfing hotspots such as La Gravière in Hossegor, Les Estagnots in Seignosse, La Piste, Santocha in Capbreton, draw the best surfers in the world but there are many more in between, such as Labenne, Soustons, and Moliets that depending on the conditions, can be as attractive for novices. The website guide-des-landes.com lists a range of surf schools at all the major surfing sites in Les Landes. See also: landes-holidays.com Cycling on the Vélodyssée, Atlanic Coast Launched in 2012 as part of the Atlantic Coast Route - EuroVelo 1 , La Vélodyssée is a 1,300km marked cycle route down the Atlantic west coast of France, running all the way from Roscoff in Brittany to the border town of Hendaye. For those that like their cycling free of cars, over three quarters of the route is on traffic-free paths. The section of the route in Nouvelle-Aquitaine starts from La Rochelle and travels via 17 stages, such as Rochefort, Hourtin-Plage, Arcachon, Capbreton, and Biarritz passing numerous coastal villages and attractive harbours, through a range of terrain, including pine forests and alongside canals, with lots of opportunities to spot flora and fauna en route, particular in sections that pass nature reserves. The dedicated website cycling-lavelodyssee.com contains lots of useful information to help plan cycling all or part of the route, including GPS tracking and links to businesses along the route that have the 'Accueil Vélo' label, which means they satisfy a set of criteria that welcome cyclists, such as they are less than 5km from the route, have facilities for cyclists, such as secure bike storage, bike rental, washing machines, etc. amd provide useful information, such as weather forecasts. The website also features a section on The 10 Commandments of Sustainable Tourism , which includes information on caring for nature along the route, reducing waste, buying local, and suggestions for taking eco-friendly kit. Cycling on the Vélosud, Pyrennees Although this 650km cycle route crossed the Pyreneean range , it's billed as a more relaxing alternative to the Vélodyssée, as it runs along the moderate slopes of the foothills of this scenic natural border from Biarritz on the west Atlantic coast to Le Barcarès on the Mediterranean coast, split into 13 stages across the six mountain departments: Pyrénées-Atlantiques; Hautes-Pyrénées; Haute-Garonne; Ariège; Aude; and Pyrénées-Orientales. The majority of the route is on roads shared with traffic, but along the way there are some utterly gorgeous stretches along traffic-free trails - about a third of the route is either on greenways or cycle paths and lanes, such as the section on the stage between Salies-de-Béarn to Orthez where you cycle on a former railway line in the Gave de Pau Valley. The section in Nouvelle-Aquitaine runs from Biarritz to Pau, following beaches, fishing harbours, and the banks of rivers through picturesque countryside. Access the route from railway stations at either end - in the west, at Biarritz (on the high-speed line Bordeaux to Hendaye) where there's a 5km cycle link from the station to the main beach Grande Plage de Biarrtitz, at Pau (end point of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine section), and in the east, at either Rivesaltes railway station or Perpignan railway station – both are connected to Narbonne and Toulouse, and on the TER regional trains you can transport your bike for free with a reservation. en.francevelotourisme.com Explore Marais Poitevin – 'Green Venice' The protected Poitevin marshes, just a few kilometres from the city of Niort (the only city in France to be in a Natural Park), extending from the Bay of Aiguillon up to a manmade area known as 'Green Venice', is a 100,000 hectare site that's a maze of waterways containing a rich variety of biodiversity, including 250 species of birds, nearly 40 species of fish, 60 species of dragonflies, 80 species of butterflies, and over 130 species of flora that are unique to the area. The best way to explore the canals, channels and conches of the Green Venice section is by boat or canoe and there are plenty of boatman guides (similar to the gondoliers in Venice) on hand to help you reach the best places. Alternatively, you can rent a boat and discover this spectacular nature reserve for yourself. The website niortmaraispoitevin.com lists over a dozen operators who provide boats and guides with suggested tours from a few hours to all day. == For nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and local sights of interest, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our feature on Climate Smart Holidays in West Sweden, Sarah Baxter took the train from the UK to West Sweden in September to visits five low carbon places to stay. Here is the fifth place she visited: Dalslands Activities In a nutshell: An outdoor activity centre where you stay in lakeside glasshouses and can pretty much do everything in the great outdoors, including beaver safaris, bushcraft, campfire cooking, fishing, foraging, gold-panning, high ropes, horseback hacks, SUP-ing. The centre offers an array of human-powered, low-impact activities that encourage a deep-dive into the surrounding lakes, forests and fields. Rooms: Glass cabins (the stuff dreams are made of!) in woods by the water's edge. There’s an outside toilet near the glass cabin but the shower is in the activity centre 800 metres away. Price: 3-night package from 8695 SEK per person for single booking and 5595 SEK per person for two people. It is also possible to book a glasshouse for 1 night for 3200 SEK on a B&B basis Meals: Three breakfasts delivered to your glasshouse, two lunches and three dinners Open: April to October Carbon count: One night at Dalslands Aktiviteter creates around 1.5kg CO2-equivalent per person (the carbon emissions at an average hotel in Sweden is approximately 6.8kg CO2-equivalent) Dalsland Activities. All photos Richard Hammond except sunset canoeing: Roger Borgelid/Westsweden.com; sauna: West Sweden Tourist Board Sarah Baxter's insight: “I burn for nature,” Pontus Gyllenberg told me on lunchtime, over a dish of local-caught venison. “I want people to experience the countryside – when they see it they want to conserve it.” And seeing it at Dalslands Aktiviteter comes in every imaginable form. This activity hub in West Sweden’s ‘lake province’ was founded by Pountus’s father as a horse-riding centre 30 years ago; Pontus took over in 2011. Now, you can do pretty much anything here: beaver safaris, bushcraft, campfire cooking, fishing, foraging, gold-panning, high ropes, horseback hacks, SUP-ing. The centre offers an array of human-powered, low-impact activities that encourage a deep-dive into the surrounding lakes, forests and fields. I opted for a kayak trip down the tree-flanked Stenebyälven River, Jesper as my guide. As we ducked under branches and paddled gleefully through the faster ripples, he told me about the area, about its Ice Age potholes, river pearl mussels, 13th-century church and ancient ritual sites. “Obviously,” he said, “people have long been attracted to this special place.” However, as fun as it was to go out adventuring, I fell hardest for staying in. My room for the night was a secluded and off-grid glass cabin, perched on the weathered-smooth rocks by Lake Iväg. Reclining on my crisp white sheets, doors thrown wide, all I could see were the fragrant forest, the mirror lake and the cloudless blue above. I laid and watched the sky change as the day began to fade, paling to blush-pink, deepening through shades of blue, finishing as a canopy of stars. Who wouldn’t want to conserve this? How to get to Dalslands Activities The activity centre is half way between Gothenburg and Oslo. By train/bus: From Gothenburg it's just over an hour Ed station from where you can take the local bus to the Steneby Kyrka stop (around 40 minutes) then walk five minutes to the activity centre. You can also get the train to Mellerud or Åmål and change to local bus there, again to the Steneby Kyrka stop. From Stockholm the train journey takes around five hours. By Bike: The two national cycle trails, Unionsleden and Vänerleden, pass the town of Dals Långed 6km from the activity centre. More information: Book a stay at Dalsland Activities: dalslandsaktiviteter.se In splendid isolation at a lakeside glass house, Dalsland Activities. Photo: Richard Hammond