As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , here's our pick of places to eat across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Hotel Rural Abadia de Yuste, Extremadura A 15-bedroom hotel and restaurant in a 16th Century restored abbey in Yuste, a pretty town and best known for the Monastery of Yuste, where Charles V, Roman Emperor, retired and died. All bread and pastries are made on site and the chef, Rubén Homero, celebrates sustainable cooking ‘the only part of the pig we don't eat is the grunt’ he told us and many of the dishes make use of leftovers - the region' s most popular is migas extremenas, which makes yesterday's bread into breadcrumbs to fry up with pieces of leftover ham and pimenton spice, which is like paprika and widely produced in the region. abadiadeyuste.com Hotel Rural Abadia de Yuste's chef, Rubén Homero preparing dishes. Photos : Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Habitat Cigueña Negra, Extremadura A steakhouse and tapas bar (and shop) – that has achieved a MICHELIN green star – at a 12-room country house hotel in a remote valley in Cáceres (one of the refuges of the black stork, hence the name), just a few kilometres from San Martín de Trevejo and Valverde del Fresno, close to the Portuguese border in the far west of Spain. Dishes are drawn from the 220-hectare estate's livestock (including cattle and acorn-fed Iberian pigs) and organic extra virgin olive oil products, focusing on grilled dishes, such as their own goat meat, Iberian pork and RetWagyu beef (a cross between Retinto and Wagyu). habitatcn.com/es/gastronomia Albero, Extremadura In the pretty main square of Plasencia overlooked by the town hall, Albero specialises in regional dishes and nothing is too much trouble for the waiters and chef. The tapas here include classics like the Jamón Iberico de Bellota from pigs raised on Holm Oak acorns and migas con huevo - the breadcrumbs, pimentón and Iberian ham dish but with a fried egg. Morcilla patatera con huevos fritos is another one to try - black sausage with pork and potato, pimentón and scrambled eggs, or zorongollo - roasted pepper often served on toasted bread. You typically pay 5 euros for a tapas dish and 15-20 euros for a main with slightly larger sharing tapas available called para compartir which, at Albero, included croquettes, salads, and seafood like squid, prawns and mussels. alberoplasencia.com Outdoor dining at Albero in the main square of Plasencia Photos : Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Tapas in La Alberca, Castilla y León Visit any one of a string of classic tapas bars and restaurants serving provincial favourites in prime position in the characterful historic Plaza Mayor square of La Alberca – the first rural town in Spain to be declared a National Historic Monument. For all the options, see turismosierradefrancia.es/donde-comer Las Bóvedas, Castilla y León Based at the medieval-style Hotel Abadía de los Templarios, Las   Bóvedas is just over a kilometre from the famed architecture of La Alberca and close to Sierra de Francia and the Batuecas Natural Park. Within a splendid large vaulted room, it specialists in seasonal ingredients, and is known for its roast meats prepared in a wood-fired oven. Surrounded by gardens and lakes, there's a large outdoor seated area for large gatherings that looks out onto the mountains. abadiadelostemplarios.com/restaurante La Tarihuela, Valverde de los Arroyos, Castilla-La Mancha In the village of Valverde de los Arroyos (two hours from Madrid), famed for being one of the black architecture villages of Castilla-La Mancha , La Tarifuela (a restaurant and gin bar) is in the same building as the village's Ethnographic Museum. It is open all week (for most of the year) – which is unusual in this region – it’s a little more refined than some of the more rustic eateries nearby, but in essence is still founded on fresh seasonal food and traditional dishes with a twist, including grilled meats and fish cooked in a charcoal oven, with vegetables from the town's orchards. Tel: +34 652 09 40 18. turismocastillalamancha.es El Huerto del Abuelo, Castilla-La Mancha Based at a 7-room hotel in the town of Almiruete (about an hour from Madrid), in the heart of the Sierra Norte Natural Park. The herbs and vegetables are plucked its own garden, and it sources its meats locally, artisan cheeses from La Alcarria, and a wine list only from Guadalajara. It is highly regarded for its fresh-cooking as well as traditional dishes like Sierra style migas – fried breadcrumbs with egg, bacon and village chorizo. Enjoy it all from the terrace with views of the natural park. elhuertodelabuelo.com/restaurante Casa Vergara 1948, The Basque Country This pintxos bar in San Sebastian’s old town specialises in cod, including cod cheeks and bacalao, but diners can expect the pintxos classics here too such as tortilla and jamón Iberico. The vibe, especially on Friday and Saturday nights is buzzy and the staff, in fashionable white shirts and black aprons, are ebullient and efficient, pouring local cider and wine from a height while diners choose from the buffet along the bar. The joy of pintxos here is that everyone eats together - old, young, tourists and locals. Pintxos costs from €2.50 per plate.   grupogarrancho.com Tapas in Green Spain is known as ' pintxos'. Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Casa Cofiño , Caviedes, Cantabria In the small hillside town of Caviedes, Case Cofiño specialises in traditional home made dishes using local products - the most famous here are the cocido montañes, or mountain stew, and the albóndigas, or meatballs. The former comes with beans, kale, chorizo and morcilla sausage and the latter, the size of tennis balls, is served with chipped potatoes. There is a delicatessen on site for those who want to leave with a souvenir of Cantabrian produce. If you have room for dessert, the arroz con leche is a local specialty, with anise and cinnamon on top, or the cheesecake is a popular option. There is a broad wine selection and the prices are reasonable - so expect that you might have to wait for a table during peak season, but it is worth it.   facebook.com/pages/Casa-Cofi Watch our video of Green Spain: The Green Spot, Barcelona, Catalonia A hip, fashionable vegetarian restaurant in Port Vell (near the harbour and beaches), which bills itself as "Veggie for veggies, Veggie for non veggies", serving beautifully produced salads (such as kale and quinoa salad with cherry tomatoes, hazelnuts and white miso vinaigrette), soups, pizza and pasta, and a range of international food, including Thai curries and Mexican, in a smart decor of oak panels and soft fabrics. It has replaced single-use plastic with biodegradable and longer-lasting materials and has produced a 50- page sustainability report for its continuing efforts to reduce its impact on the environment. grupotragaluz.com/restaurantes/the-green-spot Restaurant El Fai, Lleida Pyrenees, Catalonia A family-owned restaurant in Taüll in the Lleida Pyrenees, in the heart of the Boí Valley known for World Heritage Romanesque churches – El Fai overlooks the Romanesque church of St Climent de Taüll, declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2000, along with Sta Maria de Taüll, St Joan de Boí, Sta Eulàlia d'Erill la Vall , St Feliu de Barruera, the Nativity and St Quirc de Durro and the Assumption of Cóll. It is also close to the entrance to the Aigüestortes and Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, the only National Park in Catalonia, and it is 9 km from the ski resort of Boí Taül – the highest ski resort in the Pyrenees at 2751m, with with 45km of skiing . restaurantelfai.com Restaurant Er Occitan, Val d’Aran, Catalonia High in the Pyrenees, the Val d’Aran is a unique enclave with its own language (Aranese, related to the Occitan dialects spoken in south-west France), customs and culinary traditions. At this fine-dining restaurant, head chef Marcos Pedarròs Delaurens plays with those traditions, and the ideals of the slow food movement, to create inventive haute cuisine of an exceptional quality. eroccitan.com Watch our video of summer in Catalonia: Jamones Muñoz, Las Alpujarras As Paul Bloomfield writes in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia , "it has to be said that a dried ham is a curious-looking thing – with its hoof and greyish-tinged side, it doesn’t have the most appetising appearance". Yet when sliced tissue-thin, a fine jamon can be among the most delectable morsels in Andalucia. The best are produced in the dry air of the high-altitude villages of the Sierra Nevada; Trevélez, the loftiest town in Las Alpujarras, is renowned for the output of its 20 or so producers. But in the village of Yegen is a small artisan dryer, Jamones Muñoz, where you can learn how the hams are prepared and dried, as well as enjoying a tasting session of the chorizo, longaniza, lomo and other delectables. There’s a cute shop selling crafts, jams, chocolates and other goodies, too. jamonesmunoz.com   Restaurante La Fragua, Las Alpujarras In the picturesque white Andalusian village of Trevélez, this restaurant of the hotel of the same name (there are in fact two accommodations which share a swimming pool) focuses on typical dishes of Las Alpujarras and the wider Mediterranean, drawing on produce from its own organic garden. Try the blacksmith’s eggs (casserole of sausage, ham and egg, baked with cheese), Moorish lamb roasted with herbs, almond and dried fruit, or whole partridge cooked with onions, carrots, peppers, nuts and garlic. Also serves a great version of the classic Granada dish of remojon , essentially a salad of oranges and salt cod. There’s an attractive terrace for dining al fresco on warm days with views of the valley below. hotellafragua.com   Green Traveller's video of Spain Cas Gasi, Ibiza, Balearic Islands 2024 is the 25th year of the beautiful estate of Cas Gasi, set on four hectares of pine forests, orange and olive groves, almond, fig and carob trees in the centre of the island. The farm-to-table 'More' restaurant of this small boutique hotel draw upon organic, wholesome ingredients to create daily changing menus to reflect the local larder. Dishes include fish of the day, and specialties such as home made ricotta Agnolotti, Terraviva chicken, beef dishes, and vegan ice-cream. The farm practices no-dig farming producing high quality vegetables, fruits and herbs, describing itself as "‘not just a restaurant; it is a celebration of this island’s lush landscapes and rich culinary heritage... it’s about cultivating gratitude, sustainability, and a deeper appreciation for the natural world". casgasi.com/gastronomy A Mi Manera, Formentera, Balearic Islands The menu may sound international at this upmarket garden restaurant in the centre of the island but many of the ingredients are as local as you can get; seasonal vegetables and herbs are grown organically and served straight from plot to plate while meat and fish are sourced from trusted local suppliers. With tables set up within and around the vegetable garden, it’s an atmospheric spot for dinner al fresco. Typical dishes include ricotta-stuffed courgettes, spaghetti with cherry tomatoes and burrata and Formentera ceviche with celery and spring onion, marinated in orange and tomato. amimaneraformentera.com   Natural Kitchen, Mallorca, Balearic Islands A breakfast and lunch diner on Plaça de l'Olivar in the centre of Palma, which focuses on organic food sourced from small producers and organic drinks, including organic coffee, infusions and juices. Lunch includes vegan burgers and vegetable lasagne, and a range of select-your-own salads from a range of ingredients, including eggplants, red peppers, raw fennel with orange, and fresh spinach. naturalkitchenpalma.com Restaurante Hespérides, Teguise, Lanzarote, Canary Islands In Teguise in the eastern central part of the island, Restaurante Hespérides specialists in organic food from local suppliers, serving both traditional and what it describes as "gastronomic innovations', from goat cheese or pumpkin croquettes to vegetarian skewers and smoked tofu, including vegetarian and gluten-free options.   restaurantehesperides.blogspot.com Laguna Nivaria, Tenerife, Canary Islands From traditional Canarian stews to tasty home-made cheese, Tenerife offers a range of gastronomical delights whatever your budget. At Laguna Nivaria (within a mansion that dates back to the 16th Century) in historical centre of San Cristóbal de La Laguna – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – the à la carte dishes are made with 100% organic eggs, fruits and vegetables (including bananas, papaya, strawberries, mangos, oranges, avocados, Barbados cherries, and pineapples) from its 50,000 square metre farm, La Vizcaína, located 15 minutes away in the Valley of Guerra. Open   every   day   for   lunch   and   dinner.   lagunanivaria.com/en/philosophy == For nearby places to stay, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain , we've picked out a selection of places to stay in Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. Outside of the cities such as Bilbao and San Sebastian, accommodation across Green Spain tends to be mid to small scale, with very few resorts on the scale of the Costas. Much of the tourism is domestic and many of the Spanish tourists opt for self-catering apartments or houses. There are plenty of hotels and B&Bs for those who don’t wish to cater, but these are likely to be independents, rather than being booked as part of a package holiday. For those on a tight budget, the region has some superb value-for-money campsites, hostels and apartments. Below is a selection of places to stay throughout Green Spain. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Green Spain Galicia Casa da Cabaza This bucolic farmhouse B&B lies on the shore of a lake 45 minutes drive from Lugo. Owners Sietske and Tariq have lovingly restored the main house and five ensuite bedrooms in the building across the courtyard. Period features such as wooden beams and thick stone walls remain while each rooms is unique with striking artwork and furniture made by local craftsmen. Guests are invited to wander the organic gardens, laze in hammocks or star gaze thanks to the light pollution-free skies. A vegetarian breakfast of homemade and locally sourced produce includes Galician cheese, yoghurt and honey, while a an evening meals of tapas, or ‘pinchos’ can be prepared if ordered in advance. casacabaza.com Asturias: Posada del Valle A family run hotel set in 18 acres of organic orchards, pasture and a vegetable garden that supply the restaurant with much of its produce. Guests are greeted by homemade apple juice and bread for breakfast, while in the evening the daily changing set menu includes a soup, salad, main course, dessert or cheese, much of it picked just hours before it is served, for E28 per person. The 12 bedrooms are ensuite and include features such as stone walls and windows that originate from the building’s past role as a priest’s farmhouse. It lies in the foothills of the Picos de Europa and is, as such, popular with walkers and bird watchers. Nearby towns are Cangas de Onis and Llanes. posadadelvalle.com Camping Tauran Agroturismo This family-run cliff-top campsite near the pretty harbour town of Luarca occupies a dramatic position on the wild Asturian coastline. The 100-or-so spaces include free camping, sites with electricity as well as spaces for motorhomes and caravans and bungalows. The log cabin-style bungalows sleep 2-6 people and have a kitchen including a fridge, toilet, shower and bed linen included. The site has its own smallholding boasting native Asturian animals including an Asturcon pony, Xalda sheep and Pita Pinta chicken. Other child-friendly activities include a playground, pool, sauna, table tennis, basketball, table football, and billiards. There is free wi-fi, a covered barbecue area and Taurán beach is a 200 metre amble downhill. The site runs on solar energy and is kept cool by the shade of the trees and breeze from the Cantabrian Sea. campingtauran.com EcoFarm Asturias This ‘glampsite’ may be off the grid but it is only 40 minutes drive from Oviedo and there’s no skimping on the luxury. There are three choices - the caravan that sleeps four overlooking wild woodland with a mini kitchen and composting loo and the yurt that sleeps five and has a simple field kitchen with a deck and hammock. Then, the cabana that sleeps up to six. It is a traditional rural building where animals would have slept below and the shepherd above. Water comes from a private spring and solar powered phone chargers and showers are available. Guests can self cater and order ahead for a veg box, eggs, potatoes, a fresh bunch of herbs, plus there’s barbecue facilities using home produced charcoal from the farm’s sweet chestnut coppice. Evening meals can be provided for E15 for adults, half price for kids, offering dishes such as chicken with olives, lemon, honey, ginger and coriander. ecofarmasturias.org Cantabria: La Casa de las Chimeneas Owners Tony and Lucia have converted a rustic farmstead into a hamlet of pretty apartments in the tiny village of Tudes in the Pico de Europa. The eight apartments, once pigsties and hen houses, have one, two or three bedrooms and have 14 chimneys between them, giving the house its name. All have kitchens, televisions, wood burning stove and wifi. There’s a shaded terrace, striking infinity pool with mountain views and bar called La Taberna del Ingles which offers light meals and snacks. Potes is only ten minutes away with its old town and Monday market. lacasadelaschimeneas.es Casa Zalama When Casa Zalama’s six bedrooms are full, its occupants increase the population of the village, San Pelayo, by 50%. This is countryside life in the slow and peaceful lane, yet Santander and Bilbao are just an hour’s drive away. The house is rustic and traditional and surrounded by a pretty garden with plenty of spots to unwind. There is also a self catering cottage that sleeps four with its own kitchen and garden area. Breakfast and dinner is home cooked and much of it homegrown including traditional rustic Spanish dishes, perfect for the surroundings - antique reclaimed furniture, baskets, woodwork hanging on thick stone walls. casazalama.es Basque Country: Eco Hotel Mundaka Mundaka is a world famous surf destination thanks to its left-breaking wave, considered the finest in Europe in its category, and reaching up to four metres high. Mundaka also boasts a pretty harbour and is in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, which includes beaches, forests, rivers and islands. The Eco Hotel is in the centre of town and 300 metres from the beach. It has simple but bright ensuite 19 single, double or triple rooms and stands strongly by ecological principles including solar power, smart water use and minimal use of chemicals. It has a dining room offering a locally sourced breakfast, a surf school and gelateria in season. hotelmundaka.com Ea Astei Once a collection of farm buildings, the 15th century farmhouse, adjoining granary and raised barn have been converted into two rustic but luxurious self catering apartments and a cabin together with two striking modern apartments in wood and glass. The five units sleep between two and six people and have well equipped kitchens, heating, wifi and linen. There is a swimming pool, sauna, hot tub, garden and barbecue area. The bucolic surroundings include eucalyptus forests and beaches 10km away. And Guernica, of Picasso fame, has lots of restaurants and an excellent market and is 15 minute’s drive. en.astei.net Marques de Riscal This five star hotel is part of the extraordinary ‘City of Wine’ complex designed by Frank Gehry. The contorted metal facade of this building gleams pink and silver in such flowing folds that the metal looks like twists of ribbon. It houses the cellars, wine tasting rooms, two restaurants, avcafe, shop, spa and hotel with 43 bedrooms and suites. Many rooms have balconies and all have views of the combed rows of vines or the terracotta roofs of the pretty village of Elciego. marriott.com/hotels/travel/biolc-hotel-marques-de-riscal-a-luxury-collection-hotel-elciego For nearby places to eat, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth reconnect with nature by train, bike and foot on a journey around southwest France Grapes: PatrickHutter//iStock; Cycling on La Flow Vélo: Nicola Forsyth; Jambon de Somglier: MargaretClavell/iStock; Sunset at La Cité du Vin: Cecile Marlier; Chateau de Beynac: Alban_Gilbert; Vineyard: alxpin/iStock Cycling out of postcard-perfect Sarlat, in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, it felt less like leaving the bustle of a French market town behind and more like entering a calm new world. Turning off the main road onto a dedicated cycle path, the sights and sounds of tourist-filled pavements faded out, replaced instead with a quiet, single-track cycle lane and a vision of brimstone butterflies chasing each other, like tiny beams of sunlight, across the tree-lined trail. We were pedalling electric bikes along La Flow Vélo. This new 350km greenway runs from the Dordogne to the Atlantic coast, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River and through the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort along the way. Trying out a provisional 20km section of the trail, we ventured from Sarlat to Domaine St Amand, a glamping site in the Périgord. Watch our video of our trip to Nouvelle-Aquitaine: Close to the medieval village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly (officially one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages and home to a spectacular fortified abbey), Domaine St Amand is managed by a dynamic young couple, Jeanne and Baptiste. A grocery and outdoor pool sit beside the restored farmhouse at its heart while 50 two-bedroom wooden cabins are spaced out scenically among fields of wildflowers and newly planted trees. Beautifully crafted with restful taupe and timber interiors, chic ensuite bathrooms, private kitchens and covered terraces, the cabins make a peaceful pitstop along the trail. Especially if, like us, you pick up one of Jeanne’s homemade coq au vin or happen to visit on a night when the wood-fired pizza oven is being fired up. Which is exactly what Jeanne was hoping to create when she and Baptiste designed the site. Travellers are increasingly seeking stays that put sustainability centre-stage, she said, and allow them to re-connect with nature. Sitting on the terrace of our cabin, the sunset glowing through a chilled glass of local white, it wasn’t so hard to imagine how you might help them do that. But can you travel sustainably and connect with nature in the city? Earlier in the week we’d put this to the test by travelling to southwest France from the UK by train, an easy hop that saw us catch a Eurostar from London to Paris and then a high-speed TGV for the two-hour onward connection to Bordeaux. Our first stop here was the FirstName Bordeaux hotel in the Mériadeck neighbourhood. Between the 1960s and the 1980s this neglected corner of the city became a testing ground for some of the brightest modern architects of the time. Among the showstoppers they created was a concrete colossus with striking curvilinear balconies designed by Arretche-Karasinki and Marcel Nouviale for French insurance company Allianz. A super-sized example of upcycling, the building was recently repurposed as a hotel. Inside its brutalist exterior hides a serene, colourful space that welcomes guests in with clever lighting, lounge-on-me seating, a communal kitchen (so no need for energy intensive mini bars) and natural materials (each room has a bag of charcoal to purify the air). The entrance to Firstname Bordeaux; bag of charcoal that's in every room to purify the air Photos: Richard Hammond The hotel’s snooze-friendly seating may have been calling but instead we headed out on a tour of the city on bikes supplied by neighbouring Esprit Cycles. Local guide, Véronique Baggio, proved impressively adept at talking while pedalling, pointing out not just Bordeaux’s spectacular neoclassical architecture but also some of the city’s 1,182 kilometres cycling trails, 1,425 kilometres hiking paths and numerous green spaces as we went. Such elements helped the city earn a French Innovative & Sustainable Destination label in 2023. As did an integrated public transport system that includes trams, buses, and river shuttles. The city’s commitment to sustainability isn’t just limited its transport system, we discovered; many of Bordeaux’s visitor attractions have green technologies embedded within their operations, including the impressive Cité du Vin in Les Bassins à Flot, a former industrial and port area that has been transformed into an ‘eco district’. Nicola's visit to Cité du Vin provided her with a brilliantly overview of wines from across the world. Photo: Richard Hammond The museum, which provides a brilliantly sensory overview of wines from across the world, as well as the region’s renowned vineyards, has an innovative bioclimatic design that means 70% of its energy needs are met by local and green energy sources. Food is another obvious way in which visitors can make easy sustainable choices. From food halls like Les Halles de Bacalan, where you can find stalls bursting with regional cheeses, local wines and warm-from-the-oven pastries, to fine dining restaurants like Casa Gaia, Zéphirine, and Vivants, with their focus on fabulous seasonal produce. Also attracting carbon-conscious foodies is the Darwin Ecosysteme. In the city’s Bastide district, this former military barracks is now a co-working and cultural hub, restored using reclaimed materials and furnished with vintage finds. A multipurpose base for creatives, skateboarders, coffee nerds, music lovers and shoppers (you’ll find eco-minded brands such as Patagonia and Veja there) it’s also home to the largest organic bistro-dining hall in Europe, with a community garden growing seasonal greens to boot. The edgy creativity at Darwin Ecosystem. Photos: Richard Hammond From here, we ventured out of the city on a series of trips by train. At Le Buisson-de-Cadouin we walked a six-kilometre section of the Chemin d’Amadour long-distance hiking route to the spectacular World Heritage Site of the 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin. The magnificent Abbey of Cadouin. Photos: Richard Hammond Further afield in Brive, we stayed overnight at Hotel La Réserve, an impressive renovated building adjacent to a small park at Germain Auboiroux and a short ten-minute walk from the railway station, and had lunch in Halle Gaillarde – a showcase for local producers, including bakers, butchers and cheesemakers. From Brive, we cycled a couple of hours south-east to Collonges La Rouge – another of the Most Beautiful Villages in France – to walk among its maze of medieval streets and admire the 25 turrets that soar skywards from the village’s graceful sandstone buildings. You're beholden to an unusual palette: the red of the sandstone combined with the ochre-colored and blue-gray of the slate and the green of the vines clinging to the walls. Then, just 30 minutes by train from Bordeaux, in Saint-Émilion, we visited the Couvent des Jacobins. Medieval Saint-Émilion is known for its 2,000-year history of winemaking and, while the Couvent doesn’t stretch back quite as far as the beginning, vines have been painstakingly tended here for almost seven centuries. Now organically cultivated, this sophisticated operation offers a fascinating insight into both the culture’s deep, soil-rooted history, and into the challenges and opportunities of a sustainable future. Close by geographically yet far apart in terms of scale, the Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion support some 145 winegrowers across 600 hectares of vines. Representing more than 12% of the entire Saint-Émilion AOC, it is a sustainable cooperative known largely, like so many local producers, for its Merlot; its wines can be tasted by the glass straight from the co-operative’s wine truck at local producers’ and farmers’ markets. Wine-tasting at the Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion, which supports 145 winegrowers. Photos left and centre: Richard Hammond; right: aixpin/iStock Back in Bordeaux, a highlight was a circular walk on the GR Bordeaux Métropole in the company of local guide Dominique Busnel. The first urban Grande Randonnée (GR), or long-distance hiking trail, in France, the route winds through seventeen of the territory's 28 municipalities along its 160km length. Peppered along its path are 11 idiosyncratic suburban shelters where you can pre-book, for free, to stay overnight. Dominique took us to show us round one of them, The Cloud. Signage on GR Bordeaux Métropole; The Cloud shelter; map showing location of the other shelters Photos: Richard Hammond Unlike our cabin at Domaine St Amand, this was no classic woodsman’s shack, however. Perched in the Ermitage Park, by the wooded shore of a lake, this architectural folly looks like a cartoon drawing of a cloud, albeit enormous and made not of water vapour but of plywood. A nod to utopian architecture it was an apt place to end our time in Bordeaux, allowing us to pass the afternoon to a lullaby of gently croaking frogs and passing terrapins. Is it possible to connect with nature in the city? I think we had our answer. == Disclosure: Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth were guests of Nouvelle-Aquitaine Tourism and Atout France. They had full editorial control of the review, which is written in their own words based on their experience of visiting Nouvelle-Aquitaine in 2024. All opinions are the authors’ own.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our pick out of sights of interest and other visitor attractions across this culturally rich part of southwest France. Left to right: Sarlat: Proformabooks/iStock; sunset at La Cité du Vin: Cecile Marlier; The village of Beynac: RolfSt/iStock; Lascaux: Richard Hammond; Darwin Ecosystem: Richard Hammond; Colonges la Rouge: Xantana\iStock; Cadouin Abbey: Richard Hammond; Vineyard in Saint Emilion: alxpin/iStock; Cloitre-de-Cadouin: Richard Hammond. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Darwin, Bordeaux Billed as "economically innovative and ecologically responsible", this former military barracks on an urban wasteland in the Bastide district on Bordeaux's right bank is now many things: a co-working hub for creatives, a visitor attraction, a shopping precinct (including eco-minded brands such as Patagonia and Veja) an event space, and activity centre that includes the 3rd largest indoor skatepark in France. It's also home to the largest organic bistro-dining hall in Europe, selling produce from over 300 local producers, including with options for vegetarians and vegans in ample supply, and its own community garden growing seasonal greens. The entire site is run with a deep commitment to the environment with a range of low energy and renewable solutions that mean it consumes three times less than the average equivalent urban site elsewhere in France. But it's so much more than an eco showcase, it lives and breathes innovation and there's an edge to the art – don't miss the 'street art and strolling' section - you'll find it hard to leave. darwin.camp The many faces of the Darwin Ecosystem. Photos: Richard Hammond Cité du Vin, Bordeaux The city's foremost celebration of wine, is not just a celebration of Bordeaux wines but of wine-making worldwide - everything from ancient and modern history and geography to heritage, the environment and gastronomy. Throughout the year there are temporary exhibitions about particular aspects of wine (in 2024, there's a one-hour tasting tour of the four seasons where a sommelier will treat you to 4 wines from around the world), while the main permanent exhibition is an immersive sensory experience that leads you through a series of themed rooms, including "The vine-grower's year", "Vineyards of the world", "Wine trends", "Terroirs of the world", "The buffet of the five senses". You'll be provided with a personal digital guide that facilitates realtime interaction with the exhibits. The visit lasts about 2-3 hours though you could easily while away an entire day here. However long you spend in this fabulous exhibition, by the end you'll likely be gasping for a drink so head up to the Belvedere on the 8th floor for a glass of wine or grape juice, and admire the expansive view of the city. The museum is also committed to being a green venue and has installed an innovative bioclimatic design that means 70% of its energy needs are met by local and green energy sources. laciteduvin.com/fr La Cité du Vin. Top left: Sunset, Cecile Marlier. Other photos: Richard Hammond Couvent des Jacobins, Saint Emilion Just 30 minutes by train from Bordeaux, medieval Saint Émilion (a UNESCO World Heritage City) is known for its 2,000-year history of winemaking. Pride of place in the centre of the town is Couvent des Jacobins where wine has been painstakingly tended here for over seven hundred years - from the Jacobian Friars to the Jean and Joinaud families. Now organically cultivated (certified by ECOCERT France since September 2020), this sophisticated operation offers a fascinating insight into both the culture’s deep, soil-rooted history, and into the challenges and opportunities of a sustainable future. Tours (which include tastings) run all week from May to October and from Monday to Friday from November to April. couvent-jacobins-saint-emilion.com/en/ Cloitre-de-Cadouin, Dordogne Valley Regarded as a masterpiece of flamboyant Gothic Art, the 1,000 year old Cloitre-de-Cadouin in the village of Cadouin (between Sarlat and Bergerac in the heat of the Dordogne) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that's on the route of the Camino de Santiago long distance pilgrimage walk. Founded in 1115 by Géraud de Salles and affiliated with the Cistercian order 4 years later, it was abandoned during the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453), and the cloister was rebuilt at the end of the 15th century. Although the monks ceased their activities in 1790, the abbey church and the Romanesque foundations of the 12th-century buildings remain, yet it is the finely carved columns and elegant vaults of the cloister that attracts people from all over the world. Choose from a range of tours, including a self-guided option and a combined ticket to the nearby Biron Castle where there's a spectacular view of the Périgord, Quercy and Agenais. Educational workshops and lectures are held on Saturdays. cloitre-cadouin.fr Marvelling at the finely carved columns & elegant vaults of the 1,000 year-old Cloitre-de-Cadouin. Photos: Richard Hammond Sarlat, Dordogne Valley You may recognise the medieval town of Sarlat, with its historic monuments of pale stone and lauze roofs, from the many famous films that have used it as a location, such as Chocolat , The Musketeer , and The Duellists . Packed with well-preserved pavement cafes, attractive squares, cobbled streets, bourgeois homes of the Renaissance, and a large Benedictine Abbey and Cathédrale Saint-Sacerdos, it's a picture-postcard place that is still a thriving market town. Throughout the year, there's a range of events tasting and celebrating the region's gastronomy, such as its famous goose and truffle festivals, as well as an annual film festival and an increasingly popular Christmas market. Nearby in the Dordogne valley, are the châteaux of Beynac and Castelnaud, as well as La Roque Gageac, one of the “France’s Most Beautiful Villages” (see photos below). sarlat-tourisme.com Left to right: Sarlat: Proformabooks/iStock; The village of Roque Gageac: RolfSt/iStock; The village of Beynac: RolfSt/iStock Lascaux IV, Montignac, Dordogne Valley A world-class treasure trove of cave art. Created in 2016, it's a replica of the entire original Lascaux cave (using cutting edge technology and a considerable amount of scientific research) that was discovered in Montignac by four teenagers in 1940. Packed with cave art dating back 20,000 years, it's considered one of the most important archeological finds of the 20th Century. At Lascaux IV you get a real sense of what the cave is like and the challenges and expertise of the prehistory artists. After a tour of this breathtaking site, you can then visit a workshop, theatre, cinema and gallery all of which give further insight into this fascinating discovery. It's called Lascaux IV because the original cave site (knows as Lascaux) is now permanently closed to the public to protect it; Lascaux II, which is just 200m from the original cave, was the first replica, inaugurated in 1983, but doesn't replicate all of the cave and is only open April to November, Lascaux III is a nomadic exhibition of the site that is taken around the world telling the story of the cave art. lascaux.fr/en Admiring the cave art and smart modern entrance at Lascaux IV; Photos: Richard Hammond La Rhune Mountain Railway, Pays Basque A vintage cogwheel train (equipped with an electric motor) at the western end of the Pyrenees that has been transporting passengers up the mountain since 1924. Departing from the town of Sare, officially one of the "most beautiful villages in France, 10km from Saint Jean de Luz, it travels up to 905m high In just 35 minutes for outstanding views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Pyrenees mountains. En route, keep an eye out for small wild rural ponies known as 'pottoks', which live mainly in the Basque Country, as well as carpets of Dorsera moss that grow on the mountainside, Manech ewes and griffon vultures, the symbolic birds of prey of the Pyrenean range. rhune.com and tourisme64.com Saintes A city famed for its historical art, 25 miles to the west of Cognac on the banks of the Charente River, Saintes is a celebration of 2,000 years of history. The most notable sights are the Arch of Germanicus, built in 18-19 AD, it's regarded as one of the most beautiful Gallo-Roman vestiges, the Saint-Eutrope Basilica that's a masterpiece of Romanesque art, the Gallo-Roman amphitheatre, built between 4 and 50 AD (one of the oldest in all of Gaul), and the city centre Abbaye aux Dames that's now a music venue that hosts a variety of festivals. Popular in the height of summer, go in autumn to see the city's trees turn brilliants shades, plus there are over 100 hectares of protected floodplains to the east of the river at Prairie de la Palu, just a few minutes walk from Place Bassompierre. en.saintes-tourisme.fr Limoges Known for its porcelain (on display at the Musée national Adrien Dubouché), Limoges is steeped in art and history. The best way to familiarise yourself quickly with this historic city on the banks of the Vienne River is to join one of two circular tours devised by the Villes d'Art et d'Histoire de la city ​​of Limoges Métropole. The Upper Town route (two and a half hours) visits the Saint-Martial Abbey and Viscount's Castle, the church of Saint Pierre du Queyroix, the picturesque private courtyard of the temple, and the fountain square of the bars, while the route from the cathedral district (known as Cité) to the station district (two hours) begins at the majestic Saint-Étienne Cathedral and visits a range of other historic places, including the Beaux Arts Museum, the Bishop's Garden, and the Saint-Étienne Bridge, built in 13th Century, is on the route of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. destination-limoges.com Dune du Pilat, Atlantic Coast The towering Dune du Pilar is the mother of all dunes – made up of 60 million cubic metres of sand, about 100 metres high, 600m wide and 3,000m long, between a forest and the Atlantic, it's the highest in Europe. Part of a 6,875 hectare protected area at the southern entrance to the Bassin d'Arcachon, it's constantly evolving, moving up to 5 metres towards the forest in high winds. It's located in La Teste-de-Buch a couple of miles outside Archacon – entrance if free if you arrive on foot, by bike or on the local bus (€1 each way), otherwise there's a €6 charge for parking per vehicle for every four hours. Below is a video showing what this splendid natural colossus is like all year round. ladunedupilat.com/en/ Montagnes Béarnaises, Pyrénées Immerse yourself in the thriving rural mountain way of life of the three valleys of the Bearn Pyrenees: Vallée d’Ossau, Vallée d’Aspe, and Vallée de Barétous that are anchored by the town of Oloron. The Ossau valley is home to the ski resorts of Gourette and Artouste as well as the Col d'Aubisque and the Bious Artigues lake; the Aspe valley is the place to go for cross-country skiing in winter while in the summer the Maison de Parc National des Pyrénées is popular with families, so too is the Artouste train – Europe's highest tourist train. The Barétous valley is also popular for cross-country skiing but also for snowshoeing while in the summer there's caving at La Verna. Through the Bearn Pyrenees there are food markets packed with a range of local cheeses and other local produce; traditional dishes include Garbure, a soup of potatoes, cabbages, beans, leeks, and other fresh vegetables. tourisme64.com Poitiers, Futuroscope, and Marais Poitevin Just 1 hour 15 minutes from Paris, Poitiers is the gateway to Nouvelle-Aquitaine from the French capital. Many important figures spent time here, including Eleanor of Aquitaine, Joan of Arc, and René Descartes. Perhaps the most famous of all the historical buildings in the city (there are over 80 listed buildings) are The Palace of the Counts of Poitou and the church of Notre-Dame-la-Grande, but there are many more modern day attractions that are well worth a visit, including the art nouveaux of La Grande Poste and the gardens of Puygarreau. Just 20 minutes by bus from Poitiers (or on a direct train line from Paris) is the renowned amusement park Futurscope, but if you're able to venture further to get closer to nature, head to the enormous Marais Poitevin wetland natural reserve between the city of Niort and the Atlantic Coast. Also known as 'Green Venice', it's set it's stall out to attract slow travellers looking to go canal boating, bird watching, hiking, and cycling. visitpoitiers.fr | futuroscope.com | pnr.parc-marais-poitevin.fr == For nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and low impact outdoor adventure activities, see Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our pick of places to eat across this fascinating part of southwest France. Photos: Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine :  Green = Places to stay   Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Casa Gaia, 16 bis rue Latour, Bordeaux A stylish city centre restaurant that focuses on tapas and salads made from seasonal organic ingredients, so expect peas in spring, tomatoes in summer, squash in the autumn and chestnuts in winter. Vegetables, meats and fish are grilled and roasted over a beech wood fire and dishes are served in a large convivial open plan room. It has a 'producers charter', which sets out its policy regarding sourcing its food ethically from artisanal suppliers "who respect the principles of agroecology, living soils, and promote biodiversity", highlighting food diversity, including old varieties and rustic breeds. Its website features nine such suppliers, telling the stories of the people behind the products. Exemplary. casagaia.fr/ Three of the seasonal dishes we ate at Casa Gaia. Photo: Richard Hammond Zéphirine, 62, rue Abbé de l’Epée, Bordeaux Tucked away on a side street a stone's throw from Place Gabetta in the heart of downtown Bordeaux, Zéphirine is a Michelin-starred intimate urban diner (the owners call it an 'urban inn'), open for lunch and a more elaborate dinner, with an open kitchen, a small patio terrace for those wishing to dine outside, and even a small delicatessen so guests can take away a few of the delicacies. There's single short menu: you share starters, choose from three meat, fish or vegetarian dishes then choose from a selection of deserts. It's run by an experienced trio of Romain Corbière (who spent 12 years under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse and was given the prestigious job of opening the Alain Ducasse Cooking School in Paris), his sister Marie-Zéphirine and her husband Bertrand Arnauld. 'Zephrine' is their great-great-grandfather's name, so expect age-old recipes conjured with refined expertise; it's outstanding value. zephirine.fr The menu of the day and two sumptious desserts we ate at the Michellin-starred Zéphirine . Photos: Richard Hammond Le Cent 33, 133 rue du Jardin Public, Bordeaux Close to the Museum of Wine and Trade in the centre of the city, Le Cent 33 is the first restaurant in Aquitaine to be given the EcoTable label (the French eco label for environmentally friendly restaurants) who awarded it two macarons for its 'advanced approach', and a Green Food Ambassador , the focus at this chic bistro-style restaurant is on "seasonal, mostly local and organic" food. The aromatic herbs, red fruits, some vegetables come from its own greenhouse and vegetable garden 'Potager', five minutes from the restaurant. The Michelin star is thanks to Chef Fabien Beaufour (previous restaurants include Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, Patrick Henriroux in Vienne, and New York's Eleven Madison Park) who aims to reflect the seasons "inspired by tradition French cuisine, twisted by the chef's international experiences". A feature of the restaurant is that it uses a robatayaki wood fire pit to prepare some of the dishes. Choose wine from a list of 500 wines, 90% of which is oriented toward organic, biodynamic and natural wines from both large well-know estates to new winegrowers. cent33.com/ Vivants, 13 rue des Bahutiers, Bordeaux The wooden-framed glass windows of the facade might suggest a traditional, formal atmosphere at this Michelin-starred restaurant, but inside, Vivants is laid back and welcoming. The elaborately decorated dishes – the attention to detail is exceptional – are the hallmark of chef Tanguy Laviale, previously of Garopapilles who also runs the show at the popular Michelin-starred Ressources restaurant, close to Place Tourny. At Vivants, there are three menus of 3, 4, and 5 dishes – expect dishes such as scallops with persimmon and vegetarian tortelli – and choose from a comprehensive list of over 1,000 wines, thankfully a helpful sommelier is on hand to help you pair your selection with your food. restaurantvivants.com Restaurant l’Entrepote, 5 rue Albéric Cahuet , 24200 Sarlat la Canéda, The Dordogne Valley Tucked away in a quiet corner of this popular village, just off the Place de la République, Restaurant l'Entrepote is a cosy restaurant with exposed stone walls and a outdoor terrace in a charming, timeless courtyard, serving regional cuisine using fresh market ingredients. There are classic dishes such as goats cheese salad, carpaccio, and magret de canard, but also variations such as pork tacos, calamari, vegetarian tartelette, and pork in a morille mushroom cream sauce. facebook.com/p/Restaurant-LEntrep%C3%B4te-100063596772091/ Chez Paulo, rue Saint Gregoire, Brive Choose between the characterful outdoor terrace or the cosy interior at this popular 4th generation run bistro (previously known as Les Frangins) in a quiet corner in the heart of Brive. The owner Paul works with many local farms and you can expect beautifully presented dishes, such as red tuna, Limousin beef rib chops, carpaccio and and exquisite rum baba – a soft cake in a delicious rum syrup, with full-course vegan options available. There are more than 200 wines to choose from drawing on Paul's extensive experience as sommelier in a Michelin-starred restaurant. chez-paulo-restaurant-brive.eatbu.com Café du Commerce, 1 rue des Halles, Biarritz A convivial brasserie in a large open plan diner that's part of the Les Halles marketplace in the centre of Biarritz. After browsing the small shops for seafood, cheese, cured meats, come here for coffee, tapas or gourmet French cuisine, including confit de canard, grilled squid, and mussels. The emphasis is on seasonal food using fresh, local products. cafeducommerce-biarritz.com Restaurant Arraina - La Table Marine, 39 Av du Commandant Passicot 64500 Ciboure A popular seafood and grilled fish restaurant on the promontory overlooking the bay of Saint Jean de Luz. Choose between the cosy interior or outdoor on the sunny terrace overlooking the harbour. There's a range of dishes such as oysters, shrimps, grilled prawns, crab salad, grilled squid, sole, and trout gravlax. arraina-latablemarine.fr La Belle Epoque, 25 rue d'Angoulême, Cognac Within the Hotel Heritage in the centre of Cognac, the elaborate cuisine of this warm, friendly restaurant matches the warm red, blue and purple tones of the neat belle epoque grandeur. Chef Aurélien Villard took over the running of the restaurant in 2024 with an aim to focus on artisanal and local products. Starters include artichoke hearts and oysters, while mains include seafood platters, beef, and fish from the local auction. In the summer, head outside to the patio for lunch or dinner among the century-old wisteria or recently renovated arcades. hotelheritage.fr/restaurant-la-belle-epoque Le Cheverny, 57 Avenue Baudin, Limoges A family run restaurant in the heat of Limoges that prides itself on seasonal regional flavours selected by chef Estelle Palard Kuhler. Choose from four to seven courses in the large main dining area for up to 100 or the light airy terrace pergola overlooking the railway. Dishes include flambéd shrimps, beef entrecôte, and marinated chicken. lecheverny.fr Restaurant Dyades - Domaine des Etangs, Le Bourg, Massignac The main elegant Michelin-starred restaurant on the magnificent sprawling a five-star chateaux estate of Domaine des Etangs. Seasonal produce is harvested 'farm to table' from the estate's 21,000 square foot certified organic garden and from local producers earning the restaurant two Ecotable awards – for its commitment to sustainable development and permaculture. A market lunch is available Monday to Saturday and non-resident guests are welcome for lunch and dinner in the splendour from Wednesday to Saturday. fr.aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs/dine La Cuisine du Cloître, rue des Allois, Limoges Within a 17th Century convent adjacent to the city's cathedral in the heart of the historic district of Limoges, Michelin-starred chef Guy Queroix (president of the Toques Blanches du Limousin and member of the Culinary College of France) has put market-fresh cuisine centre stage in this stunning restaurant mixing "tradition, innovation and seasonality" in a setting that combines wood, stone and contemporary decor. Among the choice of menus is a 'Return from the Market' midweek special (Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays), which celebrates fresh produce brought in to the kitchen directly from the city's main market, Halles de Limoges. la-cuisine-du-cloitre.fr Chez Flo restaurant, 9 rue Saint-Barthélémy, Parentis-en-Born Billed as a 'bistronomic' restaurant, Chez Flo's owners say their role is "to highlight the work of our producer partners", many of which it lists on it website, including La Bruyere Farm, The Gardens of Craoueyres, Oleanders, and Prukibio. Its lunch dishes mainly contain local and seasonal products, and it changes its menu each month to reflect the fruits of the relevant time of year: "When we develop dishes, we tell a story; the story of Women and Men producers, farmers, fishermen, winegrowers, friends and all passionate people...we are convinced that this sensitivity is felt on the plate! chezfloparentis.fr/ Les Amants du Marché, 1 rue Bourbaki, Pau A vegan and vegetarian organic restaurant serving dishes with ingredients sourced from the nearby organic market, such as smoked tofu aranchini, moussaka and green bean pies with peppers, caramelised onions, pesto and raw vegetables. Adjacent to the restaurant is its own ethical shop, "Otherwise", selling designer items, including clothes, toys, jewellery, and cosmetics made from recycled materials or organic and raw materials. lesamantsdumarche.fr == For nearby characterful places to stay, sights of interest and outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of characterful places to stay, including hotels, rainforest lodges and beach cabanas, in this beautiful Central American country Fancy staying in an atmospheric rainforest lodge and waking up to the joyous sounds of Belize jungle life? Or a barefoot-luxury beach cabana on Ambergris Caye or Caye Caulker with brilliant blue Caribbean views or staying in a remote island resort in one of Belize’s atolls, where you feel a million miles from anywhere? Perhaps you’re after a boutique hotel in Belize City or somewhere along Belize’s 174-mile (280-kilometre) Caribbean coastline? From locally owned and/or locally run hotels, villas and lodges to accommodations that are environmentally and socially conscious, this lesser known destination in Central America packs in a wide variety of places to stay.  Blackbird Caye Resort, Turneffe Atoll Few things beat a Belikin beer or Panty Rippa cocktail by the oceanfront pool bar or seaview terrace of Blackbird Caye Resort’s thatched bar, where guests gather for pre-dinner snacks and conversation. An all-inclusive (no atoll high street) PADI-certified dive resort, Blackbird Caye works with TASA (Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association) to promote best-practice ocean conservation on its diving and snorkelling excursions. 17 spacious, oceanfront cabanas (the walk-in shower is huge) stretch out along the sand, with screened balconies. Food is delicious from the kitchen headed up by chef Elvis, using local fish, fresh fruit, and Belizean breakfast favourites such as fry jacks and banana bread. Filtered water, thanks to reverse osmosis purification, limits plastic bottle use too. Glover’s Reef Basecamp, Southwest Caye On the tip of a coral island on Southwest Caye 35 miles off Belize’s coastline, this 13-acre island has been owned by a local family since 1942 where a solar-powered safari-style tented camp offers an alternative to the resort experience, with trips operated by Island Expeditions. For divers and snorkellers, it’s a sublime spot, with the barrier reef stretching along one side, and a seven-mile, reef-packed lagoon on the other, and guests have free use of kayaks, SUP (paddleboarding) and snorkel gear. Tents are simple, with proper beds, kerosene lamps and private decks - it’s cosy, sociable and nature-powered. Xanadu Island Resort, Ambergris Caye As Belize’s first hotel to receive the UN-affiliated Green Globe certification, Xanadu deserves a mention as one of the country’s pioneering ‘green’ accommodations, particularly given its location in Belize’s top tourist destination of San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. Five huge domes are home to 20 colourfully decorated apartment-style suites where you can cook (no on-site restaurant) using local ingredients; there is a small bar though serving coffees, smoothies and alcoholic drinks, otherwise you’re a short walk from San Pedro’s many local restaurants. Activity-wise, there’s a freshwater pool, seaview whirlpool, man-made reef for snorkelling, and tons of hammocks and sun loungers in the gardens and palapa (open-sided, thatch-covered seating). Jan’s Hotel, Caye Caulker Describing itself as a “home away from home”, Jan’s Hotel on low-key Caye Caulker is a locally owned hotel that’s a five-minute walk from The Split, the heart of Caye Caulker and where all the restaurants, bars and nightlife live. Rooms are super-clean, simple and comfortable, all with a mini-fridge (handy as there is no restaurant on-site) plus a handful of suites with a kitchenette. Rainfall showers and eco-friendly toiletries are welcome too. The hotel has its own small, palm-shaded beach area with plenty of loungers, a jetty, free use of kayaks, and staff can arrange diving and snorkelling trips. Don’t miss the beautiful views across the island from the rooftop patio, especially at sunset. Mariposa Beach Resort, Placencia The six treehouses are the highlight of this small, boutique beach resort, set in the tropical gardens en route to the main building (where the five renovated oceanfront suites and 11 rooms are). The treehouses are inviting and comfortable, each with a private deck and hammock to while away the hours. Food at the resort’s all-day Breezeway Restaurant and Pool Bar, which features local art and Belizean-made furniture and looks onto the resort’s beach (kayaks, snorkel gear and paddleboards free for guests), includes ceviche, pizzas, salads, pork, pibil tacos, and Creole gumbo; try Mariposa’s roasted garlic bulb with goat’s cheese and apple chutney. Breakfasts are interesting, with usual suspects plus Belizean favourites, such as fry jacks with refried beans and Maya breakfast with eggs, chaya (a local spinach), and fresh cheese. The cocktail menu is fantastic too. The Ellysian Boutique Hotel, Placencia This luxury, calming 13-room boutique beachfront spa hotel, in the laidback beach town of Placencia has extra kudos for being curated by the former first lady of Belize. Kim Simplis Barrow, whose work focuses on helping disenfranchised children through various organisations, while her ‘SHE for BELIZE’ Foundation advocates for women’s rights and supports women entrepreneurs. Relax with a mixologist-made cocktail at The Trap pool bar while the Muna Rooftop Restaurant & Bar makes the most of local produce; try the Belikin Stout braised short ribs, conch fritters and fresh salads – and at breakfast, the stuffed fry jacks and quinoa-corn pancakes offer some local flavours. Coconut Row, Hopkins The coastal town of Hopkins is a brilliant base to experience the culture of the Garifuna, descendants of an Afro-Indigenous population from St Vincent who were exiled to the Honduran coast then moved to Belize. Locally owned and run, Coconut Row is a boutique hotel with a saltwater pool in Hopkins village that has also one of the village’s best restaurants, pool/beach-side The Coconut Husk; popular dishes include plantain fries, coconut curry, Fish N Jack (fried fish in a fry jack bun) and Belizean breakfasts. Rooms are gorgeously decorated with Belizean prints and furniture and are a mixture of beachside cabins, standard rooms and larger suites apartments. The owners live on-site and also own Buttonwood Belize, three blocks away, which has beachview rooms and suites, and a rooftop. Falling Leaves Lodge, San Ignacio Owned and run by a Belizean family since it opened in 2019, this boutique lodge is warmly run by Miss Paula and Christina. With a great choice of rooms with private patio, rustic stone house rooms, cabanas and honeymoon cabanas (with whirlpool), and a holiday villa, best of all is its location on Cahal Pech Hill, a short walk from the atmospheric Cahal Pech Archaeological Reserve. A pool is scheduled to open later in 2024. Their Obsidian Restaurant has sweeping views over the surrounding countryside and the Belizean-inspired menu includes a breakfast chaya and refried beans burrito, Belizean fritters, pineapple jerk pork or chicken, and fish seasoned with Maya spices. The gardens are glorious; ask the staff to point out the tree where toucans sometimes pop their heads out in the morning. San Ignacio Resort Hotel, San Ignacio San Ignacio-born Escandar Bedran is the brains behind this locally owned hotel, now owned and managed by his children. Beginning his career by building bars and dance halls in San Ignacio including the Stork Club. In 1973, he set his sights on building San Ignacio Hotel, now one of the town’s best-known hotels. Its 27 luxury rooms and suites have rainforest, hillside or garden views, and furniture is made of Belizean hardwood and sustainable mahogany. The Running W Restaurant is worth trying for Belizean dishes such as Cracked Conch, plus the meat comes from the family’s ranch; and there’s pizza, salads and sushi too. You might catch live music at the classy Lobby Bar too. Hotel de la Fuente, Orange Walk Town Northern Belize has long been overlooked on the main tourist trail, but there’s so much to recommend it, not least Lamanai’s extensive Maya temples. Orange Walk Town offers is a lively snippet of everyday Belizean life, and the 25-room (including four suites) Hotel de la Fuente, centred around a courtyard, is a good base. Belizean-run since it opened in 2005, the (included) breakfast, also available to non-guests, is generous (and they do a budget backpackers’ breakfast) plus complimentary hot drinks all day for guests. Its sister hotel is the Gran Mestizo resort on the New River, 10 minutes via a free shuttle on request, where you can use the pool and eat lunch/dinner at the Maracas Bar & Grill. Lamanai Outpost, Orange Walk District, northern Belize Listen to the noises of the jungle as you drift to sleep under a thatched cabana at this renowned jungle lodge on the banks of the New River. In northern Belize and a boat ride away from Lamanai's spectacular Maya Archaeological Reserve, it's at the upper end of budgets, but long regarded as worth the money if you do go there. They often have good-value packages especially during shoulder season which can include meals, a trip to the Lamanai Maya temples, sunset cruise, nature walks and night safaris. The lodge is a dream for bird and wildlife lovers; look out for otters, kingfishers, and even crocs in the river. Blue Belize, Punta Gorda, Toledo district, southern Belize Punta Gorda is the kind of town you want to savour, if you have the time, so staying somewhere you can go back to and relax in is a bonus. The star of this independently owned guesthouse is the beautifully kept garden, where you can find a nook and read or bird-watch. The apartment-style rooms feel like a home from home – they’ve all got sea views, and either a balcony/veranda or a hammock on a private patio. The beds are super-comfortable here and breakfasts are delicious, with fresh bread, fruit and juice brought to your rooms. Blue Belize also has complimentary bicycles for guests and cycling in Punta Gorda is a nifty way to get around. For places offering local, seasonal, traditional food, places of interest and a range of outdoor adventure and cultural experiences, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of places to eat, from food tours and food parks to locally run cafes and beachside restaurants. The diversity of food in Belize may seem remarkable, but less surprising when you consider its history. From traditional Maya recipes and Kriol cuisine to Garifuna dishes from the country’s Afro-Indigenous population where coconut, fish and spices are the key, Belize’s food culture and choice is a history lesson in itself. Rice and beans, and beans and rice, are a staple – and no, they’re not the same thing – with chicken, fish and seafood always on the side, while filled corn tacos and tortillas are a mainstay of most Belizean restaurants. For vegetarians, there are always options even if fish, seafood and meat dominate many menus, and friendly staff and chefs are usually happy to make tweaks. If you like things hot, there’s always a bottle of Marie Sharp’s hot sauce nearby… Some of the local flavours in Belize. Photos: Richard Hammond The Truck Stop, Ambergris Caye There’s no shortage of places to eat in San Pedro but a mile north of the bridge en route to Secret Beach is Belize’s first shipping container food park and beer garden, complete with a saltwater pool, swim-up bar, 18-foot film screen, three restaurants, outdoor games and a dizzying schedule of events from 11am to 10pm daily. While owned by non-Belizeans, there is an emphasis on community events and charities, and a monthly market where sellers come from around Belize to sell their food, crafts and other goods. There's a great selection of dishes – favourites include kung pao egg rolls from Raja, fried sweet plantain from Sol Fresca, and ice cream and shakes at Cool Cone.   Estel's Dine by the Sea, San Pedro, Ambergris Caye This beachfront restaurant is one of the best spots for breakfast and lunch in a place with countless food options . Run by Charlie Sr., Estella, and Charlie Jr. it's a lovely place to start the day with filling breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, French toast and fresh juices while lunch includes fresh fish, tamales, Kriol rice and beans, sandwiches and more. They also do daily lunch specials like salbutes (deep fried tortillas), empanadas or conch soup with coconut rice. You can also stop by coffee or a drink on your beach walk, and weekend BBQs are advertised on their Facebook page. Chef Juan’s Kitchen & Pastries, Caye Caulker Sometimes the most unassuming spots turn out to be the best ones, and this is one of those with shared tables and a convivial atmosphere. You can also bring your own beer/wine. Open everyday bar Tuesday from lunchtime onwards, Chef Juan’s Kitchen & Pastries serves up a tasty menu. Favourite dishes include the aromatic seafood curry with coconut milk, jerk conch, and whole red snapper, and spice levels are fairly Belizean so don’t be too gung-ho when asking for ‘extra spicy’… Dessert-wise, it’s the key lime pie has punters salivating (and returning) – get there by mid/late afternoon to avoid missing out on the last slice. Barefoot Beach Bar, Placencia Owned and run by two Belizean sisters, this Belize-owned and run bar on Placencia’s beach, just off the ‘Strip’ is full of life and warmth with colourful furniture, lively staff and a top beachside location. As well as a great selection of reasonably priced cocktails and local beers, they also have a bespoke ‘bitters’ made from local herbs which is delicious (down or sip, as you please). Foodwise, the smoked fish dip with tortilla chips is one of their top sellers, and the fried breadfruit is very more-ish. By night, travellers often flit between here and neighbouring, also Belizean-owned and operated bar Tipsy Tuna , where you can tuck into wings, burgers and wraps, with Garifuna drumming and other events on selected nights. Brewed Awakenings, Placencia The daily roasted coffee beans and sublime coffees are not the only reason to visit this airy, inviting upstairs café with a patio in Placencia; they also serve over 30 different seaweed shakes. Seaweed is said to contain a wide variety of vitamins and nutrients and shake flavours include key lime pie, mint ‘n’ chip, and espresso; they are genuinely delicious (and no, you can’t ‘taste’ the seaweed). Brewed Awakenings also serve up tropical fruit smoothies and protein bowls, with ingredients such as aloe vera pods added, plus innovative cakes such as courgette and pineapple muffins and rum and chocolate cake. Guava Limb, San Ignacio One of San Ignacio’s most popular restaurants, Guava Limb deserves its place for its consistently delicious food and fun atmosphere. Fruit and vegetables come from their 32 -acre Maya farm in the Macal River valley, and dairy and meat is sourced locally. It’s an eclectic menu with dishes such as shrimp and conch ceviche, Maya farm salad, Indonesian gado-gado, blackened fish and Thai lettuce wraps. And if you fancy burgers, pizza or pasta, they really do come highly recommended here. There’s indoor seating, a large patio, and an upstairs porch – perfect for enjoying coffee with a view over the Macal River. Ko-Ox Han Nah (Let's Go Eat), San Ignacio If you’re after classic, local Belizean and Caribbean dishes in a friendly, family-run setting, Ko-Ox Han Nah ticks all the boxes. Open from 6am, they serve filling Belizean and European-style breakfasts, but it’s the lunch/dinner dishes that stand out, for vegetarians too. There’s an excellent choice of dishes such as coconut rice with beans and chicken while callaloo greens or chaya (similar to spinach) and fried plantain make great sides too, plus Belizean and South Asian curries including a super-hot vindaloo, if you dare. You’ll also find a pretty extensive list of quesadillas, burritos, sandwiches and burgers, and a huge drinks menu including craft beers, local rums, shakes and kombucha.   Smookeez Seaside Restaurant & Bar, Belize City Right on the water with views of the Caribbean Sea and a soundtrack that ranges from reggae to 80s pop, this 100%-Belizean owned seaside spot is known for its great food, sundowner cocktails and friendly staff. Its ‘cracked conch’ deep-fried fritters, fried fish, ceviche dishes and pulled pork tacos are well-loved by locals and visitors, and they also have a good vegetarian selection including an aromatic coconut vegetable curry and Beyond Meat burgers, steak and pasta dishes, plus a medley of salads, tacos, wraps (including lettuce wraps) and nachos. It’s the waterside setting that really makes this place and it’s well worth coming for a cocktail and snack if nothing else. Island Breeze Bar & Grill, Dangriga With a spacious outdoor deck looking onto the beach, Island Breeze Bar & Grill is a lovely spot in Dangriga (formerly known as Stann Creek Town by colonialists ), even if it’s just for a drink and snack. The menu is skewed towards meat, fish and other seafood, but there’s a decent vegetarian selection including chips and salsa, veggie burger and quesadilla, salads, and fried cassava or plantain. The highlights though are dishes like shrimp kabob, arrachera meat tacos, whole fish fillets, and sizzling fajitas, and portions are pretty hearty. Like many spots in Belize, their cocktails and mocktails are worth a swig, and the views make it a top spot for a sunset drink. Swinging Armadillo Beach Bar & Restaurant, Hopkins Hopkins is widely known as the cultural centre of Belize’s Afro-Indigenous Garifuna culture, and this over-water bar and restaurant on the beach does a great job of celebrating Garifuna and Belizean cuisine, and there’s Garifuna drumming on Thursdays. Coconut milk and fruits such as pineapple and mango make a frequent appearance in dishes created by the village chef, whether fresh lobster (in season), prawns or chicken, and sides include sweet potatoes, yams and cassava, all of it organic. It’s a great place to sip a Belikin or Lighthouse beer or enjoy a slice of cake and coffee. Coffee beans come from G allon Jug, a Belizean coffee farm, and seasonal desserts include banana bread, sweet potato pudding or ice cream from a Mennonite-run B elizean dairy.   Asha’s Culture Kitchen, Punta Gorda Looking out onto the water, Asha’s Culture Kitchen is a special spot in the coastal town of Punta Gorda (or PG) in Belize’s southern Toledo region. With an emphasis on Kriol cuisine, it’s paradise for seafood lovers especially, with a daily changing menu that may include sustainably caught snapper fillet (sometimes caught by head chef Asha himself), fried conch or the invasive lionfish, while their tropical fruit shakes are a real palate-pleaser. The waterfront deck is also a great place for wildlife-spotting and if you’re lucky, you might just glimpse dolphins or even manatees. There’s live music on occasion which celebrates Belize’s diversity so you could hear Creole or Garifuna drumming or the sounds of Maya marimba. You can also book cooking lessons and sustainable fishing trips.   Fi Wii Food Restaurant, Punta Gorda, Toledo district, southern Belize Right on the seafront at one end of Punta Gorda town, this no-frills, welcoming independent restaurant ticks all the boxes when it comes to great food (and prices). Local and seasonal ingredients shape the Belizean-inspired menu with dishes such as conch coconut curry (they make their own coconut milk) fresh snapper and lionfish (and lobster, in season), as well as serving up global dishes such as pasta, BBQ ribs and onion rings. Even if you don't eat here, come for the juices, said to be the best in town, with innovative combos such as beetroot and ginger, and refreshing, cooling cucumber concoctions. For characterful places to stay, places of interest and a range of outdoor adventure and carefully crafted community-run cultural experiences, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of visitor attractions, from food markets and national parks to scuba diving sites and ancient Maya sites, in this historic Central American country. National parks, world-class dive sites, community tourism, and Maya temples are among Belize’s many attractions. While logging and hurricanes have left their mark on Belize’s forests, with much of it secondary growth, ancient trees remain in protected areas where the canopy ranges from 40 to 120 feet and wildlife flourishes. Belize’s Maya sites are impressive and numerous and it’s worth visiting at least a couple to get a sense of its past. Where possible, book local guides, particularly for the Maya sites in order to have a true insight from a knowledgeable Maya guide. Guides are generally very knowledgeable, friendly, and it’s a way of supporting the local economy in an equitable way. San Ignacio town, Cayo District, western Belize The largest town in western Belize, San Ignacio is a place you can easily while away a few days; there are some great hotels, excellent bars and restaurants, and it’s a brilliant base for experiencing the region’s Maya sites, hiking trails and rivers. But the town itself has plenty to offer too. San Ignacio Market on Tuesdays and Saturdays is a lively, local market where you can enjoy delicious tacos, burritos, pupusas (corn griddle cake) and grilled meats, and pick up fresh fruits, nuts, crafts and clothes. San Ignacio Resort Hotel’s Green Iguana Conservation Project  is also worth a trip (hourly tours from 8am-4pm; book online) while a 10-minute uphilll walk takes you to the Maya site of Cahal Pech, settled around 1200-1000 BC and former home for an elite Maya family. Go early or late afternoon to avoid the heat and catch the best light for views over the temple and river. Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, Hopkins, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize While Cockscomb is best known as home to the highest number of jaguars, it’s difficult to spot these elusive creatures. If you’re determined, book a guided evening tour or stay at least two or three nights; even then, keep expectations in check… the sanctuary covers over 128,000 acres of jungle in the Cockscombe Range of the Maya Mountains, add another 120,000 acres of neighbouring Bladen Nature Reserve, and you can see why jaguar-spotting is a challenge. But by day, there’s a chance of seeing animals such as ocelots, deer and tapir – and you should hear the howler monkeys too. There’s great birdlife with over 300 species including the keel-billed toucan, scarlet macaws and several species of hawk, and the jungle hiking is some of Belize’s best. Belize has over a rich diversity of wildlife, including ocelots (top right), toucans and howler monkeys Photos: Belize Tourism Board Lubantuun Maya site , Toledo district, southern Belize The largest Maya site in southern Belize, Lubaantun has become known for the number of ceramic objects found among the stones, believed to be charmstones or items using during Maya rituals. One of the most common items is a type of whistle-figurine which can play three different notes. Lubaantun looks different to many similar Maya sites, using mostly large stones of black slate, laid so carefully that no mortar was used, and the name translates to "place of fallen stone.”  There are various theories about the role of Lubantuun; the Grand Plaza is so vast that some believe it was a commercial centre, perhaps for a central market and on a trading route. It’s worth taking your time for a wonder to see the ball courts and rituals area. Xunantunich, Cayo District, western Belize The old-school, hand-cranked (free) ferry that takes visitors to Xunantunich across the Mopan River is reason enough to visit this vast, impressive Maya site. With six plazas and over 25 temples, palaces and ball courts (plus countless Maya mounds yet to be excavated), this site really conveys the breadth and scale of Maya architecture and skill. The largest pyramid is El Castillo at 130 feet high (second tallest in Belize after Caracol) and if the weather is clear, views stretch across into Guatemala and up towards Caracol in the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve. A guided tour is highly recommended for a real understanding of the site, plus it supports local guides. Lamanai Maya temples, Orange Walk District, northern Belize With its enviable spot on the New River, Lamanai, which means ‘Submerged Crocodile’, is one of the most intriguing sites in northern Belize. Set in the rainforest, there are stunning views from some of the temples, although at time of writing, you can’t climb the High Temple. Don’t miss the carved limestone masks of the Mask Temple and the stone jaguar formation on Jaguar Temple before climbing up for views. Lamanai was occupied for over 3,000 years and as a result, had a large, long-standing, prosperous Maya community until  European contact in 1544. The Archaeological Reserve also has a museum – there’s a well-preserved mask showing a Maya ruler appearing from a crocodile headdress – two Spanish church ruins and a 19th-century brick sugar mill. The boat ride to/from Orange Walk Town is gorgeous (and avoids the alternative – a bumpy road) with a chance of seeing iguanas, Morelet’s crocodile, and plenty of birdlife. ATM - Actun Tunichil Muknal, Cayo District, western Belize A 45-minute drive from San Ignacio followed by a 45-minute to one-hour hike through the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve leads you to the cave opening of Belize’s legendary Actun Tunichil Muknal (ATM) cave, known locally as Xibalba and translates to ‘cave of the stone sepulchre’. A combo of swimming, wading, clambering and hiking takes you to one of Belize’s most fascinating Maya sites, its subterranean chambers home to the calcified bones of a teenager girl (known as ‘The Crystal Maiden’) alongside skeletons, stoneware and ceramics including the famous ‘Monkey Pot’ with its rare design. A reasonable level of fitness is recommended and claustrophobes might want to avoid. Book in advance as there’s a daily limit and note all tours are guided and weather-dependent. Belize Botanic Gardens, Cayo District, western Belize If you’re botanically minded, these 45 acres of gardens set in a valley on the Macal River surrounded by the foothills of the Maya Mountains are a must if you’re near or on your way to San Ignacio. With two miles of trails, it’s an excellent place to learn about the medicinal plants and their use in Maya medicine on the medicine trail, while the orchid house is home to some spectacular treats from Mother Nature. There are mahogany trees, once the centre of Belize’s logging industry, on the rainforest trail, over 100 palm species in the palm areas, and an impressive collection of gingers and heliconias in the ‘zingiber alley’. Hamilton Hide is a good spot for birders. Great Blue Hole, near Lighthouse Reef Picture, if you will, a huge sinkhole surrounded by a glittering ring of coral in the middle of the Caribbean. That’s the Blue Hole, a UNESCO site probably formed at the end of the last Ice Age, one of Belize’s most popular spots, and a must for divers. With Belize home to the world’s second longest barrier reef, the Blue Hole is part of this Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System and is approximately 1,000 feet across and over 400 feet deep - the site was made famous by oceanographer Jacques Cousteau who called it one of the world’s top dive sites. Marine life includes reef sharks and giant groupers, but it’s also the rock formations that lure divers there. Book with a reputable operator who has guidelines on marine conservation and advice on diving responsibly. Mayflower Bocawina National Park, Alta Vista, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize If you’re lucky, one of the first things to greet you as you enter Mayflower Bocawina National Park is the eardrum-busting sound of the howler monkeys. Rarely as close as they sound, but as the world’s loudest primate, you might feel a monster is upon you. Established in 2001 to protect the area’s biodiversity and the park’s Maya sites, Bocawina which is just 20 minutes from Hopkins and Dangriga villages, has a good selection of hikes such as the do-able Bocawina Falls Trail to the more challenging Antelope Falls Trail, and there’s zip-lining and abseiling too. Take swimwear if you’re partial to a dip as there are several waterfalls inside the park. If you’re without a guide, ask the rangers for up-to-date advice. Belize Zoo and Tropical Education Center, Belize District, northeastern Belize More of a rescue centre than a zoo, its 29 acres of forest are home to around 150 injured, rehabilitated and orphaned animals covering 45 native species such as tapirs, coatimundi, and scarlet macaws. With wildlife conservation and education its central mission, animals are returned to the wild if viable. Belize Zoo is also frequented by creatures from the outside jungle - night tours are best as many resident creatures are nocturnal. With strict rules such as no feeding or touching animals, there's a concerted effort to promote better human-wildlife engagement. It's also fully accessible for wheelchair users and anyone with physical disabilities. The Museum of Belize, Belize City, Belize District, northeastern Belize Set inside a former prison in the city’s Fort George District, the building was built during British colonial rule in the mid-19th-century, and turned into the Museum of Belize in 2002. Inside, Maya artefacts, historic Belize stamps, vintage photos and interesting memorabilia does a good job of telling the story of Belize from ancient Mesoamerican times to slavery and colonisation when it was British Honduras, and through to independence. It doesn’t have as many items as you might want or expect; many reside in museums and other organisations around the world. There’s also an art gallery, gift shop and a small exhibit on Belize’s birdlife. Caracol Maya temples, Caracol District, northern Belize Belize’s largest Maya site is also one of its most impressive, buried in Chiquibul Forest Reserve near the Guatemalan border. It’s believed that at its peak in Ad 650, this Maya city occupied anything from 40 to 70 square miles with a population of around 100,000. It was an example of Maya ‘technology’ at its best, with rainwater reservoirs and cleverly designed terraces to grow all the crops they needed, and the complex was full of markets, palaces and temples including Caana, Belize’s highest structure. Caracol may not be the easiest site to reach, but it’s worth it and half the adventure lies in reaching this Maya city deep in the jungle. Find characterful places to stay, places that serve local, traditional seasonal food and drink, as well as outdoor adventure activities and carefully crafted community-run cultural experiences in our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize .

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani selects a range of outdoor adventure activities, including island nature trails, birdwatching, kayaking, and snorkelling (all with an emphasis on conservation), and a range of carefully considered, community-led cultural experiences in this fascinating and beautiful Central American country. With nature and culture at the heart of what makes Belize such a special place, low-impact activities are easy to find here. From expertly crafted food tours that go out of their way to tell the wider story of a place (as well as fill your rumbling tummy) and carefully considered, community-led cultural experiences that educate and inform about Belize’s myriad cultural groups from the Maya to Garifuna, to nature-led activities, such as island nature trails, birdwatching, kayaking, and snorkelling, with an emphasis on conservation, and local guide-led walking tours that champion small food producers and lesser-known histories, there’s no shortage of bona fide options in Belize. Calabash Nature Trail, Turneffe Atoll Few things beat walking along a hammock bridge surrounded by forest before climbing a 40-foot-high bird tower on a tiny island in the middle of an atoll in the Caribbean Sea and seeing nothing but miles and miles of mangroves, interrupted only the deep blues and greens of the Caribbean Sea. This is part the Calabash Nature Trail, so-called after the towering calabash tree that the ancient Maya probably planted (you might see ancient Maya mounds made of coral rubble). You’ll learn about the poisonwood tree and its antidote, the ‘peeling skin’ gumbolimbo tree, understand the importance of mangroves in the face of climate change, and you might spot blue land crabs and iguanas. Book via Visit Turneffe (a partnership between TASA/Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association and BlueWild Ecoventures) but it’s more likely you’ll visit via your resort or tour operator. Half-Moon Caye National Monument, Turneffe Atoll This gorgeous, tiny, crescent-shaped island on Turneffe Atoll is an Audubon Society-managed national park and bird sanctuary with a lovely nature trail from the jetty to the beach. Usually crowd-free, its highlight is the treetop platform for birdwatching over the canopy, where the island's resident red-footed boobies and frigate birds congregate. Look out for hermit crabs, iguanas and turtles as you walk through the old-growth forest. For divers (and snorkellers), the caye's 900-metre reef wall makes for a memorable wall dive. See also: travelbelize.org/destinations/belize-reef/half-moon-caye Snorkel trail, Turneffe Atoll Belize’s first official snorkel or underwater trail is by Calabash Caye in Turneffe Atoll, and it’s been designed to show the best of reef life in the area but also educate snorkellers about the reef ecosystem and marine conservation. While the trail is only around 300 metres long, life underwater takes on a new meaning; don’t be surprised if you’ve been hypnotised for an hour or so by shoals of fish, colourful coral and swaying seagrass. Sometimes it’s worth just stopping to hover, to see who or what might pass below you. Guides will also show you the seaweed farm, an enterprising way to offer alternative livelihoods to local farmers. Birdwatching in Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary , Belize District, northeastern Belize A boat tour through this protected area of waterways, swamps and a 20-mile lagoon is a fantastic birdwatching spot during the November-May dry season for numerous resident and migratory birds. Crooked Tree, between Belize City and Orange Walk Town, was initially set up by the Belize Audubon Society, who manage several protected areas in Belize, and originally to protect the jabiru stork, but many other species, including kingfishers, egrets and herons reside here too. It’s a wildlife haven in general, and you might spot iguanas, howler monkeys, coatimundis, and even river turtles and crocodiles. A boat tour or kayak/canoe is a lovely way to experience the sanctuary but you can also hike along the boardwalks and enjoy incredible views from the observation towers. Crooked Tree village is also a longstanding Creole community with cultural and cooking experiences available. Taste Belize village food tour , Placencia, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize There are food tours and there are food tours. Dr Lyra Spang is a food anthropologist who educates and feeds you over a few hours as you walk through Belize’s laidback beach town of Placencia. Starting with a chocolate tasting in her Taste Belize store, where you can also buy 100% Belize-made honey, spices and beauty products, she introduces you to her own farming background and to Belize’s cultural and historical influences. From collecting tamales (steamed corn tacos) from a Maya lady, eating rice and beans made with real coconut milk outside a roadside kitchen, and trying corn tacos at a taco stand, to herbal bitters and fried breadfruit sticks in a beach bar and trying seaweed shakes, this is a top-notch food tour that champions the diversity of Belizean cuisine. Lunch and dinner tours available, plus Placencia bar crawl, cacao farm visits, and Garifuna and Maya cooking classes. Garifuna Cultural Immersion Experience at Lebeha Drummers, Hopkins, Stann Creek District, southeastern Belize This cultural experience run by Hopkins Uncut is a fantastic introduction to Garifuna drumming, traditions and food, with an underlying objective of keeping Garifuna culture alive and accessible for future generations. After watching a mesmerising drumming performance, you’re invited to take a seat and have a go yourself – it’s a privilege to drum alongside the Lebeha Drummers who perform around Belize and internationally. The cooking lesson is just as fun and perfectly steered by chef Kenima Williams who teaches you to make a delicious hudut soup of coconut milk, peppers, chillies and fish (optional), and served with plantain. It’s very interactive and you’ll be grating coconut husks, mashing plantain using a huge (person-height) pestle and stirring it all up before sitting down to a delicious lunch. More info: Booked via Hopkins Uncut | Lebeha Drumming Centre | Kenima’s Garifuna Cooking Class River kayaking on the Macal River , San Ignacio, Cayo District, western Belize For stellar birdwatching, green iguana-spotting or simply a relaxing paddle, go kayaking or canoeing down the Macal River. It’s relatively tame i.e., the water is mostly flat and Grade 1 if we’re talking rapids, making it one of the best spots for river kayaking for all abilities, and you can do it guided or self-guided. Depending on how long you have, you might want to stop at the botanical garden, butterfly farm or tour the medicine trail at Chaa Creek Lodge. Look out for kingfishers, mangrove swallow and the Black Phoebe, or you can book a specialist birdwatching guide too. Even if you just want to row the calm waters of the lower Macal, it’s a real treat. Experienced kayakers might want to consider the Mopan River instead. San Antonio Women’s Co-operative , Cayo District, western Belize Just outside the town of San Ignacio, San Antonio Women’s Co-operative is a female-empowered, community initiative led by Timotea Mesh with a dual purpose of empowering local women and young girls, and preserving Yucatec Maya cultural traditions, from recipes to pottery to embroidery. After an introduction to the cooperative, guests take part in an interactive cooking class, learning to grind corn kernels into a soft dough and making homemade corn tortillas. There's a chance to try your pottery skills - a lot harder than it looks - before enjoying one of the best lunches you'll have in Belize. Eladio’s Farm & Chocolate , Punta Gorda, Toledo District, southern Belize The cacao bean is Maya ‘gold’. In Belize’s southern region of Toledo, Eladio Pop has been taking guests on cacao farm tours for many years where guests can take a short trail through the forests where Eladio cracks a cacao husk , before learning about the bean-to-bar process. You get the chance to take part in cracking, winnowing and grinding the cacao bean, before tasting the chocolate the Maya way; an unsweetened chocolate drink served from a gourd. That’s when you’ll realise how much sugar and milk goes into the chocolate we know! Living Maya Experience , Big Falls, Toledo district, southern Belize Since 2012, the family have been sharing local Kek'chi Maya customs and culture from a recreated traditional Maya home, as it might have been as recently as 50 years ago, in the village of Big Falls. You might watch a skilled artisan produce detailed the Maya craftwork or play traditional musical instruments, and learn about the importance of the forest to Mayas - everything from food and medicine to furniture – and a tour around the yard reveals the importance of plants, herbs and spices. Guests can also get involved in preparing food, such as making corn tortillas or grinding cacao beans, before helping to cook on an open fire. Vegetarians are catered for too; just let them know when booking. Mennonite community visit, Orange Walk District, northern Belize Know for their tight-knit, often private communities, the Mennonites of Belize are conservative Christians of Dutch/German descent who fled Europe from the 17th century; there are around six communities numbering 12,000 in northern Belize’s Orange Walk and Cayo Districts. Tours are limited but sensitively organised with families, such as Cornelius and Anna Schmitt, who are comfortable sharing stories and traditions. Using limited modern technology, they’re known for their work ethic, and own and run some of Belize’s biggest dairies and farms (not without contention, of course, but that’s another story). A horse-and-buggy tour at Indian Creek ends with a delicious lunch of schnitzel, pickles, salads and potatoes. Mennonite communities, like any, vary from the traditional to modern, and the tour challenges assumptions and invites you to ask questions. Booked via lamanai.com . Orange Walk Town taco and town tour , Orange Walk District, northern Belize Northern Belize doesn’t appear on all itineraries, but Orange Walk Town, Belize’s third largest city, has a rich history captured in Banquitas House of Culture, and is a great place to observe everyday life. Tour guide Manuel Novelo’s passion for his hometown is infectious. Tracing its history from its time as a Maya trading route to an outpost for the British-run logging camps, Novelo shares his knowledge, including OWT’s status as the town of tacos (each year, it hosts a TacoFest), leading you to his favourite spots in town including his must-visit taco stands. Novelo is also an environmentalist; during lockdown with his grandchildren, he planted mahogany trees, a species logged to near-extinction during colonial rule. Tour guides with heart and soul can bring the most unassuming town to life. For characterful places to stay, where to find local food and drink, and places of interest throughout Belize, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize

Guyana’s sustainable accommodation options are never less than immersive, enfolding guests in this spectacular country’s natural and cultural beauty. Lodges are typically built with natural materials and in traditional style, modest in size – most offer just half a dozen or so comfortable rooms or cabins – but offering big experiences. You might lie down amid the pristine rainforest of Iwokrama, waking to the calls of red howler monkeys, or on the banks of the mighty Essequibo River, ripe for relaxation or watersports. Staying in the wide Rupununi region, you could saddle up on a working cattle ranch or thrill to the antics of giant river otters. Best of all, you’ll meet and learn from indigenous communities, keen to share a deep knowledge of their homeland’s rich biodiversity and traditions. Arrowpoint Nature Resort Named after the giant arrow trees that thrive in the surrounding forest, Arrowpoint Nature Resort provides a perfect toe-dipping glimpse into the pristine, unmistakable beauty of Guyana. It takes about 45 minutes by road from Georgetown to the Timehri dock, then 60 minutes by boat along the Kamuni Creek, passing overhanging jungle vegetation that eventually gives way to the wide open savannah, to reach the Indigenous community of Santa Aratak. Most of the staff at the resort, which nests comfortably within these ancestral lands on the banks of Kamuni Creek, is from the Arawak community. The indigenous people are eager to welcome travellers and share their culture and traditions through fun activities that can be enjoyed on a day or overnight trip – such as canoeing, spear-fishing, forest-hiking and wildlife-spotting (look out, especially, for crimson topaz hummingbird), visit Indigenous homes and try your hand at making delicious cassava bread. The resort itself – part solar-powered – has a handful of rustic cabins, plus a communal thatched lodge and a riverside lounge. Dinner is usually served on the beach, by the light of flaming torches and fireflies. 94-95 Duke Street, Kingston, Georgetown; +592 231 7220; facebook.com/ArrowPointResort Atta Rainforest Lodge Tucked deep inside the Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve, one of the least-spoiled tracts of jungle left in the world, is Atta Rainforest Lodge. Just eight rustic rooms, with solar-generated electricity and cool open-air showers, stand in a forest clearing, miles from anywhere but only a short walk from the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. This series of suspended bridges, up to 30 metres above the forest floor, takes you high into the treetops; guests at Atta can ascend for the choruses at dawn and dusk. The lodge also has glorious gardens, where hummingbirds zip about and tapir come to feed, as well as a network of well-maintained trails in the surrounding forest that might reward with sightings of other species, even elusive jaguar. And, at the end of each day, savour a delicious dinner: indigenous-influenced fresh-cooked meals, made from local produce, served under the stars. 141 Fourth Street, Campbellville, Georgetown; +592 226 2085; iwokramacanopywalkway.com Baganara Island Resort And relax… This private retreat – on one of the 365 isles scattered along the mighty Essequibo River – is the place to kick back and unwind. Its 15 simple but comfy rooms look out to the river, over luxuriant gardens of exotic blooms and fruit trees.. There’s a lovely stretch of sand – ideal for lazing and river swimming by day, beach bonfires and alfresco dinners by night and a new swimming pool for a refreshing dip. Take a birding walk to tick off the island’s umpteen species, splash about by kayak or paddle board, or head a little further afield: soak up some off-the-tourist-trail culture in nearby Bartica, a lively mining town developed from a 19th-century mission; or sail over to neighbouring Parrot Island at dusk, to watch hundreds of these colourful birds returning to roost. Baganara Island, near Bartica, Essequibo River; +592 222 8053; baganara.net Caiman House Field Station A few nights spent at this research-based community lodge in the Rupununi savannah is a chance to get hands-on with nature conservation and immerse yourself in local culture. Founded to study black caiman, the nonprofit station sits in the indigenous village of Yupukari and is now run entirely by community members – your visit directly contributes to locally driven initiatives. Rooms are simple but sizeable, plus there’s a lovely lounge, open deck and cool veranda for lazy afternoons. You can meet the villagers, learn a few words of Makushi, and visit sustainable furniture-making ventures. And you can head out at night with the caiman study crew as they capture, measure and release black caiman of various lengths and sizes. . There are also opportunities for riverboat trips to see the huge Victoria Amazonica water lily bloom, plus bird walks, wildlife-spotting and chances to learn about other on-site projects such as river turtle rearing. Yupukari, Rupununi; caimanhouse.com Iwokrama River Lodge These eight river-facing cabins lie within one million acres of pristine rainforest in the vast Iwokrama wilderness, a privately owned nonprofit area with unmatched biodiversity, dedicated to conservation and sustainability. Expert-guided nature walks, mountain hikes, safari drives and boat trips (both day and night) will reveal some of the resident species, from the vibrant profusion of birds to black caiman, and (with luck) elusive jaguar. You can also mingle with the on-site research teams over dinner in the lodge’s main building. Or simply loll in your comfy, solar-powered cabin – each has a breezy wrap-around veranda strung with hammocks, so you can kick back by the riverbank, swaying gently as the sun sets. Kurupukari, Essequibo River; +592 643 2622; https://iwokramariverlodge.com Karanambu Lodge This former working cattle ranch and balata collection station, sprawled across the diverse Rupununi region, is now a beacon of ecotourism. It was here that Diane McTurk established a pioneering centre for conservation, focused on the plight of endangered giant river otters. Now, guests staying at the lodge’s simple but comfortable clay-brick cabins can immerse themselves in the Rupununi's savannah, wetlands, rivers and forests, exploring by boat, 4WD or on foot. Some 600 species of bird have been recorded here, as well as big charismatic critters: giant river otters, giant anteaters, capybara, black caiman. You can join two guided excursions each day, in the early morning and late afternoon, and watch a new cast of animals emerge at night. There’s also plenty of time to sit back with a rum punch, watching the wetlands erupting into life. Rupununi; +592 643 4110; karanambutrustandlodge.org Rewa Eco Lodge In 2005, a small Makushi community living at the confluence of the Rewa and Rupununi rivers decided to shift from animal-poaching to ecotourism and conservation. The result is one of Guyana’s most isolated, most authentic, most sustainability-focused ecolodges, where the locals will welcome you to enjoy hand-built cabins, delicious food, warm hospitality and an invitation to explore their unique, biodiverse home. Head out on jungle walks to look for macaws, toucans and a variety of other birds, and maybe spot anaconda, agouti and armadillo. Drift along in a dug-out canoe or try your luck at fishing for piranha, peacock bass and himara among other big game fish. Climb nearby mountains for views over the snaking rivers and sweeping forest, and visit the nearby village of Rewa to meet the community. Rewa, North Rupununi; +592 645 2602; https://www.rewaecolodge.com Rock View Lodge Tucked beneath the foothills of the Pakaraima Mountains, Rock View Lodge is an ideal base for forays into the wild Rupununi savannah. There are eight comfortable guest rooms, with shady verandahs and relaxing hammocks. These sit amid a profusion of flowers and fruit trees, around a cool swimming pool. The birding here is spectacular, with 300 species recorded. The lodge is also well placed for biking and hiking trips across the grasslands, and horseback riding to the surrounding homes in the villages of Annai, Aranaputa and Wowetta. Travellers can also partake in tours to the local peanut butter factory and sample some locally made peanut and cashew nut butter. It’s a great choice for culture-lovers, too: the lodge has an extensive library and art collection, while the Makushi village of Annai, where you can spend time with the local people, is only a five-minute walk away. Annai, Rupununi; +592 645 9675; https://rockviewlodge.com Surama Eco Lodge This wonderful lodge is managed by the residents of the Makushi village of Surama. Local carpenters and artisans built the cosy round guest huts, and farmers and fishermen provide fresh produce for the meals. The first community-owned and run tourism project in Guyana, many local people are employed as cleaners, cooks, drivers and guides – after all, no one knows the area better. It’s less like staying in a lodge, more like becoming part of the community. The wildlife here is spectacular, too: you might spot black spider and red howler monkeys on hikes up Surama Mountain, peccaries and tree frogs in the forest, piranhas on expeditions down the Burro Burro River, and an abundance of birds everywhere, from Scarlet Macaws to Harpy Eagles. Surama, North Rupununi; +592 653 7160; suramaecolodge.com Waikin Ranch (above) Embrace the lifestyle of a savannah cowboy at Waikin, a working ranch on the rolling North Rupununi, close to the border with Brazil. Four large, stylish, solar-powered cabins gaze over the gardens and the grasslands to the distant Kanuku Mountains; fold-back glass doors and wrap-around verandahs invite in all that wilderness, as do the bathrooms, with their open-to-the-sky showers. Head out on birdwatching walks around the grounds or saddle up with the vaqueros to help take the cattle out to pasture – keeping an eye out for giant anteaters as you ride. Afterwards, cool off in the pool and peruse the kitchen garden to pick your own produce for the delicious farm-to-table dinners. Plan to stay up late: the sunrises and star-gazing are out of this world. Lethem, Rupununi; +(592) 226 8989; waikinranch.com For details on adventure activities in Guyana as well as natural and cultural attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Guyana

Exploring Guyana is rarely a passive experience – there’s a temptingly long menu of activities, matching the diversity of landscapes, wildlife and culture. Unsurprising in the ‘Land of Many Waters’, opportunities for fishing and canoeing abound – paddling a traditional dugout along the Burro Burro River is a perfect way to delve into this biodiverse environment. Trails through rainforests, along gorges, up mountains and across savannah offer rich opportunities for hiking, and riders saddle up in the ranches of the Rupununi. Birding and wildlife-watching is unrivalled, with creatures great – jaguar, giant anteater, harpy eagle – and small vying for your attention, as well as chances to contribute to important conservation research projects. And throughout, you’ll be welcomed by people keen to share their heritage and traditions, from indigenous cooking with cassava to market tours in Georgetown. Artisanal arts and crafts Guyana produces a rich array of arts and crafts – from hats, mats, bowls and baskets woven from tibisiri straw to balata-wood figurines, from brightly coloured textiles to clay pottery. Many of these super souvenirs are made by the Amerindian community; by purchasing the wares of these grass-roots artisans, you’re helping to provide a vital income source that enables communities to thrive by creative enterprise rather than less sustainable means such as logging and the wildlife trade. The gift shop at the Ministry of Amerindian Affairs stocks a selection of handmade jewellery, clothing, ornaments and sculptures, or you can even visit the small stalls at the Hibiscus Craft Plaza. Look out for projects on the ground too. For instance, the Yupukari Crafters (near Karanambu) make a range of home furnishings – from hammocks to chairs and tiles – that brings income into the village, while the Moruca Embroidery Women’s Group, based in the Santa Rosa and Waramuri area, in Guyana’s north-west, produce textiles embroidered with local wildlife that bring in an alternative income to sea turtle harvesting. Market tours and cooking classes Take an expert-led tour of Georgetown’s historic markets – bustling Stabroek, full-to-bursting Bourda – and you’ll get a true taste of what makes Guyana tick: there are few better ways to understand a place than through its food culture. A guide will help you navigate the colourful chaos, identify the exotic ingredients – from blim blim and noni to pawpaw and souri – and help you pick the best ingredients. You can then have a go at making a few classics yourself: maybe cook up a classic pepperpot, an aromatic meat stew, thick with cassareep (a black sauce made from cassava root). Or try recreating the creole dish metemgee, a one-pot mix of cassava, sweet potatoes, yams, plantains and spices boiled in coconut milk and served with duff (wheat flour dumplings), held to be a source of strength and virility. Conservation activities Preservation of the nation’s biodiversity is intrinsically linked with tourism in Guyana – unsurprisingly, since wildlife and unspoiled natural landscapes are two of the biggest draws for visitors. And you can get hands-on with conservation at a number of sites across the country. For example, at Caiman House in Yupukari village, you can join the study of the endangered black caiman, heading out at night alongside the research crew as they capture, measure and tag these reptiles. And at Iwokrama River Lodge, which hosts an important research centre, you might meet and help scientists studying rainforest ecology and the ecosystem services this spectacular habitat provides. River kayaking and canoeing Paddling the rivers of the ‘Land of Waters’ offers an immersive and unique perspective on Guyana’s landscapes, culture and wildlife. One of the country’s great adventures is a multi-day journey through the Rupununi along the Burro Burro River in a traditional dugout canoe, spotting diverse birdlife along with giant river otter, black and spectacled caiman, red howler monkey and perhaps even jaguar and tapir en route. Starting from Surama – where you can learn about indigenous Makushi culture from local villagers – camp on the riverbank and fish for piranha to roast over an open fire. Birding Guyana is a paradise for birders – more than 820 avian species call its forests, savannahs, mangroves, beaches and plains home. Much of that incredible biodiversity is found in the pristine rainforest that cloaks over 80% of the land. In rich birding locations such as Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve, you might spot a host of vibrant species, with names that provide clues to their colourful plumage: watch for green-tailed jacamar, purple-breasted cotinga, painted parakeet, rufous-throated sapphire, not to mention kaleidoscopic toucans, macaws, prehistoric-looking hoatzin (or ‘stink birds’) and the flamboyant Guianan cock-of-the-rock (pictured above), with its punk-rock orange mohican crest. Birds of prey include the majestic harpy eagle, while wetlands harbour ibis, storks and herons. The country’s strong focus on conserving biodiversity is reflected in the research bases, community-focused lodges and expert guides that enable wildlife lovers to locate and identify its avian wonders. Indigenous culture and lifestyle Some nine indigenous nations proudly preserve traditional lifestyles, and you’ll find plenty of opportunities to learn from these indigenous nations whose ancestors arrived in this region perhaps 11,000 years ago. The North Rupununi is home to the Makushi people, many of whom run eco-lodges in the area and welcome guests to learn about the region’s wildlife, language and traditions. It’s an immersive experience: at Rewa Eco Lodge, for example, at the confluence of the Rupununi and Rewa Rivers, discover the nine local uses of cassava, from making bread and farine (a little like couscous) to preserving meat and even making local beer. Elsewhere, ecotourism is being developed in indigenous communities at Karasabai, in North Rupununi; Moraikobai, close to Georgetown; and Warapoka, in Region 1. Catch-and-release sport fishing Anglers rejoice: the rivers and lakes of this ‘Land of Many Waters’ shimmer with a variety of fish, ranging from small but ferocious to very, very large. Some you’ll have heard of – piranha, of course, and several huge species of catfish including the ‘lau lau’ or goliath, growing to over 2m long – while others will be less familiar. There’s the arapaima, the world’s largest scaled freshwater fish; the payara or ‘vampire fish’, its lower jaw armed with fearsome needle-sharp teeth; and the colourful lukanani, known as the peacock bass – not as hefty as those giant catfish, but feisty enough to make up for it. Sports fishing, as with other activities in Guyana, is managed for sustainability and the community of Rewa has built an international reputation of excellence in catch-and-release, which is seasonal. The Essequibo, Burro Burro and Siparuni Rivers are among the waterways offering rich pickings for fishing enthusiasts, and lodges offer packages including boat hire and fishing guides; Rewa Eco Lodge is a top pick. Horse riding The broad expanse of the Rupununi Savannah is Guyana’s wild west – a swathe of rolling grassland patchworked by some of the world’s oldest and largest ranches. This is the place to climb into the saddle and experience the life of a vaquero (cowboy), driving cattle or simply enjoying the freedom of these widest open spaces. The North and South Rupununi, divided either side of the Kanuku Mountains, have subtly different characters. The (slightly) more visited North is the home of sustainably run operations such as Waikin Ranch, where joining vaqueros as they take cattle out to pasture or round them up is a treat – particularly when a giant anteater makes a guest appearance. Hiking Walking in Guyana is more Indiana Jones than Alfred Wainwright – though there are well-kept trails along popular short routes, longer treks typically involve bushwhacking through dense forest, fording rivers and keeping an eye out for the profuse wildlife en route. And they’re all the better for it: the epic multi-day hikes to mighty Kaieteur Falls, or the arduous trek to Mt Roraima’s base or summit, for example. But there are plenty of shorter but still challenging excursions, including climbs up Iwokrama, Turtle, Awarmie or Surama mountains. All are achievable in a day or less, and all the more enjoyable undertaken with experienced local guides. Wildlife spotting and photography Guyana is known for its Brobdingnagian beasts: giant river otters, turtles and anteaters, capybara, black caiman, harpy eagles and of course the elusive jaguar – the Americas’ biggest cat. And while encounters with these behemoths are electrifying, there’s much more to see among the country’s biodiverse habitats – savannahs, mangroves, plains, mountains and the lush rainforest that swathes over 80% of the land. Golden frogs lurk in giant tank bromeliads, huge arapaima fish swimming through the rivers, and howler monkeys, ocelots and boa constrictors swing, slink and slither through the forests. Try to include at least some activities after dark, perhaps a boat trip along the Essequibo River to spot nocturnal species. Wherever and whenever you travel, patience, binoculars and a good zoom lens are boons – but with expert local guides, you’re sure to enjoy unforgettable animal encounters. For where to stay in Guyana and natural and cultural attractions, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Guyana

Nature stars in Guyana: its varied habitats – from lush rainforest and endless savannahs to rugged mountains, thundering cataracts, snaking rivers and golden beaches – and their diverse residents provide the big draws. Very big: on a wildlife safari you’re likely to meet giant river otters and anteaters, capybara and arapaima – the planet’s largest scaled freshwater fish – Harpy Eagles and, if you’re lucky, jaguar, as well as encountering one of the largest single-drop waterfalls in the world, Kaieteur Falls. But woven into this rich natural tapestry is a history stretching back through eras of colonisation and immigration – still evident at sites such as Fort Zeelandia and the old wooden buildings of Georgetown – to the arrival of Amerindian peoples perhaps 11 millennia ago. Discover the country’s rich blended heritage, from market and cookery tours in the capital to stays in Makushi villages deep in the wild interior. Fort Island The Dutch once presided over the whole colony of Essequibo from this small fluvial island, 16km from the mouth of the Essequibo River. Here, in the mid-18th century, they built the Court of Policy Hall – where decisions were made and enslaved people auctioned – and the current Fort Zeelandia (pictured above), to ward off any invasions from other European powers. Today, though, it’s a peaceful approach across calm waters to reach the island, Fort Zeelandia lies in ruins, though parts of the old ramparts and several canons remain. In better condition is the single-storey red-brick Court, which is the oldest remaining non-military structure in Guyana. Now the Dutch Heritage Museum, it displays numerous maps, charts and artefacts from the colonies, telling the story of the colonisers’ dealings with the people they enslaved and the indigenous peoples. Essequibo River; nationaltrust.gov.gy/fort-zeelandia-the-court-of-policy/ Georgetown Guyana’s capital is quite the melting pot, spiced by centuries of colonial back-and-forth, sugar trading, slave history and, of course, even more, deep-rooted indigenous heritage. The cultural melange simmers at the mouth of the Demerara River, at the edge of South America and fringed by the Atlantic. Georgetown is cosmopolitan, sometimes chaotic, faded in parts but never dull. Get a feel for local life at the striking iron-and-steel Stabroek Market, the ‘bizarre bazaar’ where stalls sell everything from fresh fish and electronicsand head to Bourda Market for a colourful cornucopia of Guyanese fruit and veg. For architectural treasures, pay a visit to St George’s Cathedral – allegedly the tallest wooden building in the world – Gothic-style City Hall and the Walter Roth Museum, a handsome 19th-century house containing fine Amerindian art. There are plenty of places for idle ambling, too: Georgetown has numerous parks and a bountiful Botanical Gardens, home to manatee ponds and 200-plus species of birds. Come early evening and promenade along the Sea Wall, the spot for people-watching and cooling breezes. guyanatourism.com/wheretogo/georgetown-capitalofguyana Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve The scale and diversity of the Iwokrama International Centre for Rainforest Conservation and Development is hard to comprehend: almost one million acres of teeming, tweeting, roaring, overflowing unspoiled wilderness. Run as a pioneering not-for-profit base for ecotourism, research and sustainable land management for a quarter of a century, it is one of the most pristine places on the planet. Visits to the dense forests might yield encounters with giants: capybara (the largest rodent), arapaima (the largest scaled freshwater fish), black caiman (South America’s biggest crocodilian), giant river otters, giant river turtles and jaguar (the Western Hemisphere’s largest cat). Climb to the canopy walkway for a thrilling introduction to the upper levels of the forest. Iwokrama is the land of the Makushi, who hunted, fished and gathered food across this rich landscape for countless generations. You’ll discover scenes from their lives depicted in petroglyphs, and hear stories from Makushi people who work in Iwokrama today. Various eco-lodges provide bases for exploring well-preserved stretches of this lush forest. iwokrama.org Kaieteur National Park and Kaieteur Falls In a land of giants, the most monumental experience in Guyana is surely Kaieteur Falls – a thundering cataract where the coffee-hued Potaro River plunges 226m into a rocky gorge. Twice the height of Victoria Falls and more than four times the height of Niagara, this is reputedly the tallest single-drop waterfall in the world. But though its sheer size and volume captures the attention, don’t ignore the surrounding 627km2 of lush rainforest, bustling with biodiversity – Kaieteur National Park. Wildlife-watchers are in paradise, spotting hundreds of bird species including the vividly coloured Guianan cock-of-the-rock, the white-collared swifts that flit behind the falls, and vibrant parrots including several types of macaws. You might also encounter dazzling blue morpho butterflies and the golden frogs that hide away inside giant tank bromeliads. guyanatourism.com/wheretogo/kaieteurnationalpark Kanuku Mountains Protected Area The text for Kaieteur is repeated here, instead of the original copy. The correct text should be: Soaring up to 1100m above the Rupununi savannah and adjacent rainforest, the Kanuku Mountains represent a real ‘lost world’ – a remote, geologically ancient range hosting biological curiosities that reputedly inspired Arthur Conan-Doyle’s ripping adventure yarn. The protected area, spanning over 6000km2, is one of this wildest of countries most-wild regions, a biodiversity hotspot that’s home to 60% of Guyana’s bird species – no wonder the name comes from the Wapishana word meaning ‘rich forest’. The varied habitats support a range of species – spy harpy eagles, jaguars, armadillos, giant river otters, river turtles, giant anteaters and more than 80 types of bat. protectedareastrust.org.gy/protected-areas/kanuku-mountains Shell Beach Protected Area The clue is in the name: this swathe of coastline stretching for over 120km along Guyana’s far north-western shore comprises unimaginable numbers of shell fragments. That would be extraordinary enough on its own, but the beach is merely one of diverse marine and terrestrial ecosystems. You’ll find mudflats, seasonally flooded savannah and extensive coastal and riverine mangroves used as nurseries for many of the 59 fish species found in the area. The birdlife is dazzling – and not just the bright scarlet ibis, American flamingos, toucans and macaws. More than 250 coastal and migratory bird species have been spotted within this amazing area. Add West Indian manatees, Guiana dolphins, jaguars and four species of endangered sea turtles that clamber out onto the sand to nest between February and August, then you’ve got a spectacular wildlife destination. protectedareastrust.org.gy/protected-areas/shell-beach Orinduik Falls Compared to the majesty of Kaieteur , Orinduik Falls – close to the Brazilian border in Guyana’s central west – are more like a natural water park. Stretching over 150m across, the Ireng River tumbles 25m down over a cluster of red jasper steps and terraces creating natural bubble-fizzing pools that are as soothing as a Jacuzzi. This is the ideal spot to relax and admire the grass-clad foothills of the pristine Pakaraima Mountains. A visit is easily combined on a day-trip from Georgetown taking in both sets of falls, or flying direct from Georgetown. Savannahs of the North and South Rupununi Guyana’s Wild South-West is a vast tranche of grassland flanked by pristine rainforest and divided into north and south by the Kanuku Mountains. This is cowboy country: vaqueros drive cattle across sprawling ranches, offering opportunities to get in the saddle and ride alongside these hardy characters, or whoop to the displays at the Rupununi Rodeo around Easter. But the region is nothing if not diverse. It’s studded with pioneering eco-lodges, many community-run and boasting their own wildlife specialties – special mention goes to the giant river otters and anteaters of Karanambu, but there’s plenty more to see besides. This is also the place to immerse yourself in indigenous culture – learn to cook spicy pepper pot or crunchy farine, a favourite dish made with cassava, and slow down to the sleepy pace of traditional village life. guyanatourism.com/wheretogo/northrupununi The Essequibo River Circuit & Lake Capoey Guyana’s largest river snakes over 1000 miles north from its source in the the Acarai Mountains, near the border with Brazil, through rainforest, over waterfalls and past bustling wildlife to reach the Atlantic Ocean. At its northern extremity, it widens into a broad estuary studded with islands, making a day tour of its historic, cultural and natural highlights easily accessible from capital Georgetown, just to the east. Travellers on the Essequibo Circuit typically visit Fort Island’s Court of Policy Hall and ruined Fort Zeelandia, both dating from the mid-18th century, before continuing to one or more resort islands such as Hurakabra, Aruwai White H2O Water Resort, Sloth Island and Baganara Island Resort. Tag on a visit to Lake Capoey, where a boat ride to the Capoey Missions offers a chance to experience low-key Amerindian culture. Indigenous communities Wildlife conservation, eco-tourism and traditional culture overlap in Guyana; many indigenous villages manage or work at eco-lodges, and welcome travellers to discover timeless lifestyles, food and heritage. This is typified in the Rupununi Savannahs, where the village of Yupukari is a shining example: here, Wapishana and Makushi peoples have taken on oversight of village concerns, development and conservation work, partnering with researchers to share knowledge and develop capacity for wildlife conservation. Local guides know their environment best, guaranteeing wonderful wildlife encounters for nature-loving travellers.Best, though, is the chance to learn about daily life – for example, the nine uses of cassava, from making bread to preserving meat and even brewing a kind of beer. For where to stay in Guyana and adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Guyana

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to eat, from the coast to the mountains of the Pyrenees. Catalonia's varied landscape is reflected in a host of delicious specialities. The coastline yields spectacular seafood – savour oysters and mussels around the Ebro Delta, paellas and zarzuelas (fish stews) along the coast. Mountain pastures lend delicate flavours to cheeses from cow, sheep and goat milk, and the range of pork products is staggering, from Iberico dried hams to sausages in all shapes, sizes and hues – for carnivores, tucking into a succulent butifarra is a must. Then there are the regional and seasonal specialities: white asparagus, Pyrenean river fish, wild mushrooms, Ebro Delta rice and the Lleida favourite cargols (snails) with rich allioli. Even the simple tomato here has a flavour unimaginable anywhere else, delicious rubbed on toast in the ubiquitous pa amb tomàquet. Catalonia's wine regions include no fewer than 12 designations of origin – don’t miss fresh-flavoured sparkling cavas, grenache and carignan wines, many of them organic and all delicious. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Catalonia Restaurant Green Spot, Barcelona A beautiful restaurant in Port Vell (near the harbour and beaches), which caters for both veggies and non-veggies, serving salads (such as kale and quinoa salad with cherry tomatoes, hazelnuts and white miso vinaigrette), soups, pizza and pasta, and a range of international food, including Thai and Mexican. encompaniadelobos.com Restaurant Cal Carter, Paisatges Barcelona For over half a century the Perich family has been perfecting their take on mountain cuisine. Not surprisingly, they’ve got rather good at it – and their sparky brand of traditional gastronomy, prepared in the inspiring surroundings of the gorgeous medieval village of Mura in the Natural Park of Sant Llorenç del Munt and Obac, has garnered a loyal following. calcarter.net Restaurant l'Hostalet, Costa Brava The dormant volcanoes of the Garrotxa region don’t just define the dramatic landscapes here – they’re also responsible for the fertile soils that contribute to the traditional cuisine. restaurantlhostalet.com Restaurant El Fai, Lleida Pyrenees A family-owned restaurant in Taüll in the Lleida Pyrenees, in the heart of the Boí Valley known for World Heritage Romanesque churches (the restaurant itself is opposite the Romanesque church of San Clemente de Tahull), and close to the entrance to the Aigüestortes and Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, the only National Park in Catalonia. restaurantelfai.com Restaurant Er Occitan, Val d’Aran High in the Pyrenees, the Val d’Aran is a unique enclave with its own language (Aranese, related to the Occitan dialects spoken in south-west France), customs and culinary traditions. At this fine-dining restaurant, head chef Marcos Pedarròs Delaurens plays with those traditions, and the ideals of the slow food movement, to create inventive haute cuisine of an exceptional quality. eroccitan.com Restaurant Casa Xalets, Lleida Pyrenees The amuse-bouche at this family-run restaurant in the heart of the historic village of Àger is the view: the wall of east-facing windows frames dramatic vistas of the sheer flanks of Montsec mountain – perfect for watching the sunset alpenglow paint the rock walls orange and pink. restaurantcasaxalets.com Restaurant La Huerta, Lands of Lleida Don’t be fooled by the rather unpromising exterior. Inside, at the epicentre of this friendly restaurant, in the open kitchen dominated by its huge brick oven, chef Gerard Balasch works magic with top local ingredients, largely focusing his efforts on the grill. lahuerta-restaurant.com For information on characterful accommodation, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of places to stay, from the Pyrenees to the coast. Catalonia's wide range of accommodation options mirrors its diversity. In cities such as Barcelona and Girona you can bed down in hip hostels and boutique hotels, while among the peaks of the Pyrenees nestle cute mountain lodges, spas, and campsites with bargain prices but million-dollar views, and along the coast you’ll fine historic resorts and traditional cob-and-thatch fishermen’s cottages. Food is never far from mind in these establishments – most have fine restaurants or bars in which to sample the local flavours, from mountain cheeses in the Pyrenees to duck and seafood on the coast or the freshest peas, mushrooms and asparagus. Wherever you stay, expect a good night’s sleep, a culinary treat and a warm welcome. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Catalonia La Rectoria de Sant Miquel de Pineda, Costa Brava There’s a touch of Scotland in this beautiful restored 12th-century former rectory in volcanic La Garrotxa Natural Park. The house itself is decidedly Catalan, albeit imbued with a contemporary flair, its wood beams, whitewashed walls and tiles augmented with clever design touches such as ancient doors repurposed as bed headboards. But tartan blankets, a range of single malt whiskies and events including a Burns Night supper reflect the Caledonian heritage of one half of the pair who own and run this wonderful guesthouse – Scot Roy Lawson and his Catalan wife Goretti. Seven homely bedrooms (doubles and twins that can be combined for families) have views across oak-wooded valleys and hills. Fine dinners are available, along with secure bike storage – the house sits alongside the Ruta del Carrilet greenway cycle trail between Olot and Girona. larectoriadesantmiquel.com Mas Ardèvol, Falset, Costa Daurada, Catalonia, Spain Set in a beautiful spot outside Porrera, Mas Ardèvol has 5 spacious, elegantly decorated rooms, a natural swimming pool, and provides easy access to the Montsant mountains and the sundial route in Porrera. Specialises in traditional Priorat cuisine. masardevol.net Hostal Spa Empúries, Costa Brava, Catalonia, Spain Hostal Spa Empúries was built over a century ago as lodgings for archaeologists excavating Roman and Greek remains. Today this historic hotel with sea views has been sensitively renovated with a modern touch, including two restaurants and a spa. hostalempuries.com Mas Salagros Ecoresort, Costa Barcelona, Spain Just 20km outside Barcelona, this eco-resort is Spain's first certified Bio Hotel. Centred around Roman-style baths, Mas Salagros offers hiking, cycling and classes including yoga and pranayama, as well as three stunning restaurants and bars. massalagros.com Hotel deth País, Val d’Aran, Catalonia, Spain Set in a peaceful location in the Val d'Aran this unique hotel has 18 comfortable rooms, a restaurant serving delicious local food, and services for skiing, hiking, mushroom-foraging and more. hoteldethpais.com Hotel Port d’Àger, Lands of Lleida, Catalonia, Spain Situated in the Montsec Mountains, the Hotel Port d’Àger boasts spectacular views, cosy rooms, and a large range of cultural and sporting activities. hotelportdager.com Hotel Restaurant l’Algadir del Delta, Terres de l'Ebre This beautiful family-run hotel, the first in Catalonia to gain Ecolabel certification, has eleven spacious double rooms, a pool, fitness centre and library, as well as a sustainable restaurant serving delicious local cuisine. hotelalgadirdelta.com Cerdanya Eco Resort, Lleida Pyrenees, Catalonia, Spain A family-friendly eco site in the heart of the Pyrenees, Cerdanya offers a huge range of accommodation and activities, with something to please all ages and dispositions. On site is a pool and spa, as well as a variety of restaurants and bars. cerdanyaecoresort.com Nou Camping, Lleida Pyrenees, Catalonia, Spain Located by the National Park of Aigüestortes, this family-friendly campsite offers 150 pitches, some with pre-assembled tents, as well as cosy wooden cabins. Includes an on-site shop, delicious restaurant, heated swimming pools, games room, and more. noucamping.com Hostal Twentytú, Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain Close to Plaza de Les Glories (only 3 underground stops from the centre of Barcelona), Hostel Twentytu has 62 rooms for two to four people, all with ensuite bathrooms. An award-winning eco hostel with great facilities and views of Barcelona. twentytu.com For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Catalonia

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland National Park, Nicola Forsyth picks out some of the things to see and do among the majestic moorlands, spruce forests and rolling hills in England’s northernmost national park. Despite spanning more than 1,050 square kilometres, Northumberland National Park is one of the least populated and least visited of England's National Parks - making it the ideal destination for nature lovers seeking peaceful escapism. Highlights include the Upper Coquet Valley, the Cheviot Hills, cycling trails in the Simonside Hills and a section of Hadrian’s Wall. Where to stay The Park has accommodation to suit all budgets - from sociable pit stops for walkers and cyclists traversing Hadrian’s Wall to luxury stays complete with four-poster beds and spa baths to rustic wooden cabins and yurts. Boasting some of the darkest skies in Britain - the Park is an ideal place to stargaze. Glampers will love Wild Northumbrian in Hexham where you can stay in a tipi or yurt among the wildflower meadows of the Tarset Valley and stargaze at the nearby Kielder Observatory. They also recommend local activities and experiences including bushcraft basics, wildlife photography and holistic therapy treatments from the comfort of your accommodation. If you want to experience a Norwegian-style Mountain Lodge, The Hytte, is a grass-roofed timber cabin complete with open plan living room, private garden and decked verandah offering countryside views. In true Scandi fashion, the lodge, which has won awards for its sustainability credentials, also has a hot tub and sauna for taking in the sunset. Deep in Hadrian's Wall and Border Country, Battlesteads Hotel and Restaurant is a wonderful place to relax in front of the fireplace during winter and soak up rays in its secret garden during summer. The surrounding Roman ruins and castles await your visit and there’s a packed calendar of events and activities to immerse yourself in. Overlooking Holy Island on the Northumberland coast between the mainland and Lindisfarne, you’ll find Fenham Farm, which offers seven independently accessed en-suite rooms, converted from original farm buildings. The farm has a Gold award from the Green Tourism Business Scheme thanks to its commitments to reducing, reusing and recycling. Bird spotters visiting during winter may catch a glimpse of some of the six internationally important species of wildfowl and wading birds that call Lindisfarne Nature Reserve home. For 5-star luxury, head to St Cuthbert's House - a B&B located in a 200 year old former church in the village of Seahouses on the coast, and near the Cheviot Hills. It boasts super king size beds and local food. It's one of our favourite places to stay, as much for its green credentials as its fabulous location. If you've always dreamed of staying in a Medieval Castle then Langley Castle Hotel is for you. It offers nine rooms within the Castle and another 18 within the grounds - combining luxury and traditional decor. Features include four-poster beds, oak-panelled walls and an open fire in the drawing room. If you can bring yourself to leave, the castle is perfectly located for exploring the woodlands and open meadows of the South Tyne valley. It even offers Game of Thrones style weddings for those so inclined! Where to eat Many of the eateries proudly serve locally-sourced food. With the Park’s relatively close proximity to some of the best livestock producers in the UK and the North Sea you can expect to see organic lamb, Galloway beef, fresh crab and kippers on the menu. One of the best ways to sample them is by heading to Hexham Farmers’ Market (second and fourth Saturday of each month - sometimes more frequently in summer) where you can stock up on fine local fare produced within a 50 miles radius from around 30 farmers and producers. Local delicacies include border tart, singing hinnies (a Northumbrian bannock), and ‘locally flavoured’ Doddington’s ice cream - including Newcastle Brown Ale, Alnwick Rum Truffle and Roman Britain. Active visitors in need of a pit stop won’t be disappointed with the variety of places to refuel either. For a more quirky option why not sample a homemade scone in a renovated 1957 MK1 train carriage? Renovated by volunteers, Carriages Tea Room at Bellingham Station still retains a number of its original features. It also doubles up as a museum of sorts - with the ‘Wannie Line’ exhibit in the rear carriage, where you can learn about local history and wildlife. If you find yourself feeling peckish after a day exploring Kielder Water and Forest Park then stop off at the nearby Boat Inn where you can enjoy locally-sourced food whilst enjoying views of the lake. To see more of the lake hop on the Osprey Ferry or tackle the marathon length Lakeside Way. Not far away you’ll also find The Pheasant Inn - a family-run 17th Century traditional pub, that also serves as a B&B and has a self-catering cottage onsite to sleep up to four guests. Famed for it’s Sunday lunch, which was named ‘Best in the North’ by The Observer, it serves up hearty local produce - some of which is grown in the pub’s kitchen garden - and ales. Four miles from Hadrian’s Wall, you’ll find the former coaching inn, the Red Lion, which dates back to the 1190s. Whilst it’s been renovated since then, it retains some of the original wood and stonework from its inception. The menu serves up Northumbrian classics and locally-caught fish as well as seasonal homegrown vegetables. Be sure to check out the Stanegate Room, for a lesson in local history as well as the chance to admire the handiwork of talented local artists and crafters. It’s dog friendly and also offers a B&B service. Where to visit Ramblers won’t want to miss the opportunity to visit the section of Hadrian’s Wall that cuts through the southern edge of the national park which snakes as far as Holy Island on the coast. The fortifications and settlements here give an insight into life on the Roman Frontier. Developed in AD 160, Corbridge Roman Town sits 2.5 miles south of the Wall and served as a base for legionary soldiers. Here you can marvel at the Corbridge Hoard, which is considered to be one of the most significant discoveries in Roman history and includes well preserved armour, tools, weaponry, wax writing tablets and papyrus found within an iron-bound, leather-covered wooden chest. To learn more about life on the Wall, visit the Roman Army Museum at Vindolanda in Chesterholm where you can take in many lessons - one of which with a holographic teacher! Once you’ve taken in all the artefacts, learned a bit of basic Latin and enjoyed the 3D cinema experience set off on foot to see for yourself the well-excavated Roman auxiliary fort. If that doesn’t satisfy your fort fix, go on to visit Housesteads - Britain’s most complete Roman fort. Stroll the barracks, military hospital, granary and the oldest toilets you’re ever likely to see. For grizzly tales of dungeons and torture chambers visit Chillingham Castle. The 12th century stronghold has seen its share of warfare and from the likes of William Wallace and King Edward. Today, it is open to the public and for events - and is home to the only wild cattle in the world (which are more endangered than the Giant Panda and Mountain Gorilla!). More dungeons can be viewed at Hexham Old Gaol, England’s oldest purpose-built prison, dating back to 1330 and ruled by the Archbishop of York. More recently it has been a bank, solicitor’s office, watchtower during the Second World War and billiard’s club. The region boasts another first, this one far less fear-inducing - the first house to be lit by electricity. Cragside House, Gardens and Estate was home to eccentric Victorian industrialist, inventor and businessman Lord Armstrong and his wife Margaret Armstrong, whose love of nature inspired the design of both the house and sprawling gardens, which include more than 7 million trees - and some of the tallest conifers in the UK. Things to do Combining sprawling countryside, ancient history, wildlife and modern quirks, families and adults alike will find plenty to occupy themselves. Animal lovers may want to head to Kielder Water and Forest Park to spot Northumberland’s ‘big six’: ospreys, pipistrelle bats, roe deer, otters and roughly half of England’s native red squirrel population. It is also home to Calvert Trust Kielder, which was set up to help people with disabilities and their families get the most from the great outdoors, and offers a number of activities, including a high ropes course, archery, kayaking, climbing and abseiling and zip-wire, as well as a hydrotherapy swimming pool, sauna and sensory room. For more encounters of the furred kind, don’t leave Northumberland without a visit to Barnacre Alpacas where you can observe, feed and walk one of the farm’s 300+ award winning alpacas. There are two holiday cottages onsite if you can’t bring yourself to leave. The hills around Kielder are dotted with mountain biking trails and above it all you will find Northumberland’s Dark Sky Zone, which caters to budding star gazers. Nearby Kielder Observatory and Battlesteads run events if you want to learn more about deep sky observing. Foodies can experience the local produce direct from source by booking a half or full day foraging course with Northern Wilds Food Foraging. Feast on your finds back at the Wild Food Wagon, a converted 4x4 military truck with a wood-fired rayburn. For more ideas on where to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland National Park

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills, Jackie King picks out a selection of characterful places to stay in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in Somerset, southwest England. The Mendips has some of the prettiest and most varied countryside in the southwest, and with few towns of any real size, wherever you pick, you're likely be be surrounded by little more than rolling green views and utter peace and quiet. We've scoured the region for green and gorgeous places to stay; from mellow-stoned B&Bs in chocolate box villages and converted cottages on working cattle farms, to wild meadow glampsites and family-friendly camping, there's something to suit everyone and every budget in our collection. All of the places are committed to the environment, too. There are barn eco-restorations, a self-sustainable farm, wood burners, reed bed systems, and discounts for those arriving on two feet. By staying at one of these places, you will be supporting owners who really are making a difference by striving to reduce their impact on the local landscape. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to the Mendips: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in the Mendips Gorge View Cottage, Mendip Hills, Somerset, England An traditional cottage recently fully renovated to exacting environmental standards. Situated on a small lane, conveniently located in Cheddar village, with panoramic views to Cheddar Gorge, it is perfectly placed to explore the Mendip Hills area. Gorge View Cottage is an old gardener's cottage recently fully renovated to exacting environmental standards, with access to the large permaculture garden. This four-star graded (Visit Britain) and Gold award (Green Tourism) accommodation is ideal for one or two people and it is available for week or weekend self-catering hire throughout the year. Situated on a small lane, conveniently located in Cheddar village, the cottage has uninterrupted and panoramic views to the gorge. It is the perfect holiday location with easy access to stunning walks around the Mendips and the gorge itself; with the caves, shops, pubs, restaurants and cafes all just a few minutes' walk away. Slightly further afield are attractions such as the beautiful city of Wells, more caves at Wookey Hole, the Somerset coast at Brean Down or Weston-Super-Mare, and of course Glastonbury with the Tor, more shops and the ancient Abbey. For anyone needing a gentle break from the pressures of life, Gorge View Cottage has it all. The cottage is available for flexible rental from 2 days to 2 weeks, and starting days are not fixed. For all those arriving without a car we offer a 10% discount. gorgeviewcottage.co.uk Burcott Mill Guest House, Mendip Hills Burcott Mill Guest House is one of only two working watermills in Somerset; it’s Victorian cogs still churn away to produce organic wholemeal flour. Friendly owners, Louise and Steve French, have sensitively converted some of the mill buildings into delightful B&B rooms and a cosy self-catering bolthole for two. Visitors are free to wander around the mill museum. Country pubs, beautiful walks, and historic market towns are all on your doorstep. burcottmill.com The Webbington Hotel & Country Club, Mendip Hills The Webbington Hotel & Country Club is a half-timbered Edwardian manor, on the southern slopes of the Mendips, which has been developed into a leisure club, with 54 individually-designed bedrooms, glorious views from the roof terrace, and spa. Part of the Best Western group, the hotel is committed to promoting good environmental practice by managing waste, energy and electricity consumption, and by using local services as far as possible. https://www.webbingtonhotelandspa.co.uk/ Tordown, Somerset, England This Glastonbury B&B offers a peaceful, luxurious break in a Victorian house on the slopes of the magical Glastonbury Tor. It provides many forms of healing from Reiki to Hydrotherapy Spa treatments with an on-site mini Spa. To truly minimise the environmental impact, guests are encouraged to arrive by public transport: the nearest train station is Castle Cary and from here it’s only possible to reach Tordown by taxi. From Bristol Templemeads there is the 376 bus to Glastonbury Town Hall. Once in Glastonbury it is either a 5 minute taxi ride or a 20 minute uphill walk. Alternatively, there are coaches from Victoria Coach Station London to Glastonbury or to Bristol Templemeads from which you can take the 376 bus to Glastonbury. Onsite the owners have taken a number of green measures to reduce the environmental impact of their tourism business, earning them Gold from the GTBS. Energy-saving light bulbs are used throughout and radiators have an independent thermostat so they can be turned down. The owners conserve water with the installation of low capacity dual flush toilet and water butts for harvesting for garden watering. Additionally, they compost garden waste and feed some leftover food to visiting badgers. tordown.com Orchard House, Mendips, England Orchard House, self-catering serviced apartments or bed and breakfast in the Chew Valley, perfect for cyclists or walkers wanting to explore the Mendips. Situated on routes 3 and 410 National Cycle routes, a stop off for Lands End to John O'Groats. Ann, Derek and Fay Hollomon offer guest accommodation in the Chew Valley. A good base for exploring Bristol, Bath, Wells and the Mendips with beautiful walking from the front door. For cyclists Chew Stoke is on a Land's End to John O'Groats route, and on National Cycle Routes 3 and 10. Accommodation is available on a bed and breakfast basis in the coach house annexe, which has been carefully modernised to provide comfortable rooms. There are also two serviced apartments for self catering holidays, surrounded by a pleasant south-facing English garden. The property dates back to George III when the Bilbie family used the site for their clock-making and bell-founding business. A home-from-home, where as much as possible is locally sourced as food from local growers and suppliers wherever possible - some comes from the kitchen garden on site. orchardhouse-chewstoke.co.uk BEST WESTERN PLUS Swan Hotel, Wells, Somerset Located in the shadow of Wells Cathedral, the Best Western Plus Swan Hotel, with over 600 years of history, offers modern rooms, a stunning wedding venue and self catering apartments in a traditional setting, perfect for visiting the Mendips. The Best Western Plus Swan Hotel is located in the heart of England’s smallest cathedral city and faces the magnificent West Front of Wells Cathedral in Somerset. Parts of the hotel date back to at least 1422. Over the years the hotel has been sympathetically refurbished and extended to offer modern amenities in a beautiful setting. The 48 bedrooms, standard, superior or deluxe, vary from modern contemporary designs to being furnished in antiques with four poster beds. Please note, the age and configuration of the building means that the hotel does not have a lift. However, two rooms are located on the ground floor and porterage is available. The hotel offers a range of dining options and a choice of different areas in which to enjoy your food, including a 2 AA Rosetted restaurant offeings the finest locally sourced ingredients, the Head Chef and kitchen brigade are proud to support Somerset suppliers and they strive to use produce sourced within a 25 mile radius of the hotel. A great venue for a walking weekend, murder mystery package or a wedding. swanhotelwells.co.uk The Swan, Wedmore, Mendip Hills The Swan, Wedmore is a bustling local pub with seven individually designed and supremely comfortable en-suite guest bedrooms and an outstanding kitchen led by Tom Blake from River Cottage who cooks using local ingredients: simple, unfussy, fresh. This 16th-century pub seems to have it all: behind a graceful façade you’ll find an award-winning restaurant, a lively pub with plenty of olde-worlde charm, and sumptuous bedrooms upstairs. Dine on delicious, seasonal fare – such as roasted belly of Gloucester Old Spot or aged Chew Valley steak – conjured up by former River Cottage chef, Tom Blake, and retreat to your gorgeously elegant bedroom: claw-footed tubs, crisp linen, walls painted in stone or grey, splashes of colour and deep pile bathrobes. And if getting away from it all is what you're after, you'd be hard pressed to find a better village to do it – historic Wedmore has been a market town since the 1500s and is full of lovely architecture and quiet, quintessential Englishness. theswanwedmore.com Webbington Farm Holiday Cottages, Mendip Hills A conversion of stone courtyard barns into four fantastic oak beamed cottages with hot tub and river frontage for private fishing on a beef farm that can accommodate from 1 to 30 guests, perfectly child friendly. Deep in cider-making country are these three converted oak-beamed barns, set around a courtyard on a working cattle farm. Sleeping between 4-6 people, each barn has beautiful well-equipped kitchens, pretty quilts on comfy beds, and leather sofas. There is also a rustic party barn for larger groups made up of a bar, seating for 30, a wood burner, sound system and room to party the night away. Caterers available on request. (Woohoo! What are you waiting for?). The owners are committed to the environment and have planted 10,000 trees on the farm, replanted an apple orchard and have installed a reed bed. Keen anglers will appreciate a spot of private fishing (the farm has its own river frontage on the River Axe) and kids will love getting to know the animals on site. webbingtonfarm.co.uk Fernhill Farm, Mendip Hills Fernhill Farm, a herd of cowsheds on a 160-acre working farm in the Mendips, converted into an alternative, relaxed accommodation for up to 55 people in eco-camping barns and Ramshackle Arcs. Super green & earnest, groups from 10-200 catered for. Fernhill Farm- if you’re looking for somewhere a little different to host your conference, workshop or family gathering, then Fernhill Farm might be just the place. The cowsheds on this 160-acre working farm in the Mendips have been converted into an alternative, relaxed venue, with accommodation for up to 55 people in the adjacent eco-camping barns (underfloor heating throughout!) , apartments and Ramshackle Arcs. Andrew and Jen are committed to developing the farm into a self-sustaining unit, having installed a self-computerised log boiler, water harvesting, and wetland eco-treatment system which purifies all dirty water without the use of chemicals, which in turn has created new habitats for wildlife species. Super green & earnest, group bookings, weddings, stag and hen weekends, birthday parties. Bookings taken from groups of 10 people up to 200! fernhill-farm.co.uk Old Barn, Mendip Hills The Old Barn is a beautiful and historic holiday cottage located in Somerset, England, offering cosy self-catered holiday accommodation for up to five people all year round within easy reach of the Mendip and Quantock Hills, Wells, Bath and Bristol. From brew house to hay barn to self-catering pad for two, the Old Barn has had a long and fascinating history. The current owners (who have lived next door since the 70s) fell in love with the place, bought it, and have spent the last ten years converting the listed building: leaky roofs and piles of rubble have been consigned to the history books; now you’ll find delightful open-plan living, with oak floors and underfloor heating, sleeping up to five. Croscombe, a sleepy Mendip village, is well placed for walking and cycling in the surrounding hills. oldbarncroscombe.co.uk Folly Farm, Mendip Hills Folly Farm Centre is at the heart of Folly Farm nature reserve, a stunning 250-acre reserve close to both Bath and Bristol, owned and managed by Avon Wildlife Trust with comfortable en-suite group accommodation available for up to 45 people. Folly Farm is managed by the Avon Wildlife Trust, and is an award-winning, 250-acre nature reserve. It makes the perfect venue for a magical wedding, an inspiring conference, a fun-filled team-building day or relaxed group accommodation. The accommodation sleeps up to 45 in 10 bedrooms in an 18th century farmhouse and 10 self-contained studios, housed in converted 18th-century stone buildings and former cow sheds. The accommodation is ideal for holiday, business and wedding guests. In terms of catering, you can choose to self-cater in the farmhouse’s professional kitchen, or the Folly Farm team are happy to arrange seasonal, delicious catering for you. You have access to 250 acres of fantastic walking routes, including a trail through the ancient woodland that is suitable for wheelchairs and prams. Avon Wildlife Trust have taken special care of the site, which is located on a medieval deer park, to protect the wildlife and landscape during the construction: buildings were restored using traditional methods, all buildings are heated with biomass boilers, and reed bed systems have been installed. follyfarm.org Woodpecker Lodge, Somerset, England A tranquil, 5-star luxury eco lodge in the heart of the picturesque Somerset countryside, perfect for exploring the surrounding hillsides. Relax on the shaded balcony and enjoy a private sauna. millmeadow.co.uk Warren Farm, Feather Down Farm, Somerset, England Sitting atop the Mendips in an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Warren Farm offers up some truly stunning views of Cheddar Gorge. As well as numerous walking, biking and fishing opportunities, there's a great trail leading down into Cheddar. Warren Farm sits in the heart of the Mendips, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty whose skies are very big and very open. Its 1,000 acres stretch along Cheddar Gorge, making it the perfect location for outdoorsy types. Your tent is literally on top of the highest inland cliffs on our island, meaning the views around you are sweeping and stunning, and the walks vigorous and varied. We farm a flock of over a thousand ewes that lamb in May, and over 80 suckler cows, which calve in April and May. featherdown.co.uk Acacia Farm Camping and Touring, Mendip Hills The Robinson family runs this five-acre campsite and caravan park with cabins, which overlooks the gorgeous Mendip countryside, surrounded on all sides by rolling countryside; bring the dog. Guests arriving on 2 wheels or feet get a discount. A warm welcome from the Robinson family awaits you at this five-acre campsite and caravan park, which overlooks the gorgeous Mendip countryside. There are large grassy pitches for campers, electric hook ups for caravaners, and a log cabin with log burner if glamping’s more your thing. You’re surrounded on all sides by rolling countryside; bring the dog. Guests arriving on two wheels or two feet get a discounted tariff and bikes are free to borrow. acaciafarmsomerset.co.uk Brook Lodge Farm, Mendip Hills, Bristol Hidden in the historic hamlet of Cowslip Green, Brook Lodge is a peaceful, sheltered camping & caravan site with an environmental conscience. Perfectly placed for exploring Bath, Wells, Glastonbury & the Mendip and walking, birdwatching & cycling. Hidden in the historic hamlet of Cowslip Green, Brook Lodge is a peaceful, sheltered camping and caravan site with a strong environmental conscience. Bordered by a stream on one side, it is surrounded by wild flowers and wildlife and a labyrinth of country lanes making it a haven for bird watchers, cyclists and walkers. Their impressive eco efforts include solar-heated hot water for the showers, a strict recycling policy, and an annual tree-planting programme - this lead to them being awarded Gold by the Green Business Scheme Award. brooklodgefarm.com Bucklegrove Caravan and Camping Park, Mendip Hills Bucklegrove Caravan and Camping Park started as a tearooms in the 1940s, but these days, tables and chairs have made way for beautifully-manicured camping pitches with mature trees and shrubs, but you can still grab drinks and snacks. Bucklegrove Caravan and Camping Park started out life as a tearooms in the 1940s. These days, tables and chairs have made way for beautifully-manicured camping pitches with mature trees and shrubs, but you can still grab drinks and snacks from the family-friendly bar onsite. If your idea of camping is a little less orderly, there’s a summer camping meadow – no pitches, no electric hook ups, just turn up and grab a spot – plenty of space and stunning views across the Cheddar valley. bucklegrove.co.uk Cheddar Camping and Caravanning Club Site, Somerset, UK Hidden deep in walking country, this friendly 90-pitch campsite makes a great launch pad for a variety of attractions in the Mendips - Cheddar, Wells and Glastonbury are all close. Hidden deep in walking country, this friendly 90-pitch campsite makes a great launch pad for a variety of attractions in the Mendips - Cheddar, Wells and Glastonbury are all close, and you’ve got mile upon mile of walking and cycling routes on your doorstep. Great facilities, easygoing smiley staff and good pubs within walking distance, and the onsite shop sells all sorts, including fresh bread and warm croissants every morning. There’s also a great farm shop a five-minute stroll, selling everything you could possibly want for your sizzling summer barbeque. campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk For more information about nearby places to eat local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendips

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills, Jackie King picks out a selection of restaurants, cafés and markets to find the best local food and drink in this glorious Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Somerset, southwest England. It may be a relatively small AONB, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a region with a stronger food heritage than Somerset. Farming still plays a dominant role in the region's ecomony, and the AONB is scattered with cattle and dairy farms, organic veg growers, and breweries. Some of the biggest names in the business come from the Mendips - think Cheddar cheese, Thatchers cider, Butcombe ale, Yeo Valley yoghurt, to name but a few. We think that the food you eat on holiday is as important as where you pick to stay - you'll be surrounded by good, local food at all of these places. Whether it's eggs from the owners' hens for breakfast at a B&B, delicious aged Chew Valley steak at a pub with rooms, or a summer camping barbecue with ingredients sourced from the local farm shop, you can be sure you'll be supporting the local economy by putting money back into the pockets of growers, farmers and producers across the region. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Travel Guide to the Mendips: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Where to find local food and drink in the Mendips Lye Cross Farm The Alvis family has been farming the land for 400 years and, for the last 50 years, has been producing tasty farmhouse cheddar from their 1000-strong herd of cows. As well as dairy production, they also rear their own beef and pork. You can stock up on Lye Cross Farm produce at their lively farm shop onsite, which has a great deli and bakery, and sells fresh milk, preserves and chutneys. lyecrossfarm.co.u Yeo Valley Farm It all began in the 1960s, with the newly-acquired Holt Farm, 30 cows, a few sheep and some arable crops. Fifty years on and Yeo Valley has become one of the nation’s favourite dairy producers. Although Yeo Valley is renowned for its delicious yogurt, produced from its 400-strong herd of British Friesian cows, Yeo Valley focuses heavily on education: Wills Barn, recently-converted, is now a classroom to teach schoolchildren about sustainability and where their food comes from; there are Sarah Mead’s organic gardens – 18 years in the making and now open to the public – and tours and events held throughout the year (ploughing competitions, seed swapping events and summer festivals), as well as courses to sign up to, such as the farm adventure tour, where you can learn about organic and dairy farming. An inspiring place - visit their fun and funky website to find out what it’s all about. yeovalley.co.uk Mendip Moments Ever since it graced the freezers of shops and eateries across the region, Mendip Moments ice cream has been winning awards left, right and centre. Made using water from the their own Mendip spring, and milk from their pedigree herd of Holstein cows (who graze happily on pastures overlooking the Somerset levels), this ice cream is pure goodness with no added nasties. Exciting flavours include mascarpone, fig & honey, and strawberry & balsamic. Visit their website for recipes. mendipmoments.co.uk Cheddar Ales A stone’s throw from Cheddar Gorge is the microbrewery, Cheddar Ales. Head brewer, Jem Ham, uses natural ingredients, all of which are sourced from English suppliers, and time-honoured methods to produce a fine selection of Cheddar Ales, such as Totty Pot and George Best. You can book onto a tour or stock up on ales from their shop on site. https://www.cheddarales.co.uk Cheddar Water Cheddar, or Brilliant Water in Anglo-Saxon, is of course the source of an abundance of fresh, pure and mineral-rich water. Cheddar Water draws water from organic land which has the Soil Association’s stamp of approval within an intricate network of caves deep within the limestone hills. cheddarwater.com Butcombe Brewery If you’re a beer lover, no trip to the Mendips wouldn’t be complete without a stop off at the brewery of the West Country’s most popular bitter. The new Butcombe Brewery, which produces some 50,000 barrels of the stuff annually, is located in the village of Wrington, on the edge of the Mendips. You can book onto a tour of the brewery (advanced bookings only) or visit the shop to stock up on aler, cider, and even clothing and other merchandise. butcombe.com Thatchers Cider The Thatcher family has been producing cider on their farm in Sandford for over 100 years. Their apple orchards may have expanded to some 380 acres, but they still use the same oak vats, recipes and ingredients that William Thatcher, the company’s founder, created in 1904. Deeply committed to protecting the business and farmland for future generations, the family has planted 200 acres of orchards in recent years, as well as 2,000 native British trees (ash, beech, oak). Stop off at their cider shop to stock up; the Strawberry Line footpath cuts straight through the orchards. thatcherscider.co.uk The Almshouse Teashop This old building ended its days as an Almshouse in the 19th-century, after which is lay empty for years. To the rescue came John and Nicky, who bought and restored the building several years ago and have turned it into a beautifully atmospheric place for a stop off. Delicious homemade clotted cream teas, light snacks and tasty cakes are served by friendly staff under the stunning medieval oak roof, and there’s also a lovely gift area where you can pick up locally-crafted gifts. thealmshouseteashop.co.uk East Harptree Village Shop This community-owned shop, in the pretty Mendip village of East Harptree, sells over a thousand products – just about everything from bread and fruit to Ecover refills – thereby reducing the village’s dependence on supermarket and supporting the local community and economy at the same time. Anyone in the community can become a stakeholder, with all profits being ploughed back into the village community. As much local produce is sold as possible, with information given on the provenance and sourcing of produce. Their website has a comprehensive Q&A section on the scheme. eastharptree.org Priddy Good Farm Shop Dubbed the ‘Harrods Food Hall of the Mendips’ by one enthusiastic customer, this family-run farm shop on the owners’ farm in Priddy, in the heart of the Mendips, sells homebred beef and lamb, homemade sausages, burgers, pies and cakes and locally sourced free-range pork and chicken. They also do catering services, hog roasts, and BBQs. A priddy good farm shop indeed. facebook.com/PriddyGood Salt and Malt tea room and fish café Sail a boat, take your rod down to the water’s edge for a spot of fishing, or soak up the watery views from the lakeside paths: however you chose to spend your time at Chew Valley Lake, head to the lake’s tearoom and fish cafe set on the stunning waterside. Offering perfect fish suppers to eat in or take away. Tea, coffees and cakes are served all day and traditional lunchtime bites, such as fish and chips and British bangers are prepared daily on site. Views look out across the lake. saltmalt.com The Lamb, Axbridge Occupying an old 15th-century coaching inn in the pretty medieval square of Axbridge is the Lamb Inn, the focal of the village and popular with visitors and locals alike. Inside, the atmosphere is warm and inviting, with wonky beams and old slate floors. The menu features a delicious range of dishes, such as their famous beef and Butcombe pie, or homemade delights such as lasagne or scampi. The Lamb Inn is slap-bang on the Mendip Trail, a walking or cycling circular route connecting six Butcombe pubs in the area. https://www.butcombe.com/pubs/the-lamb-hotel/ The Queens Arms, Bleadon In its former life, this Butcombe pub, on the western edge of the Mendip Hills AONB, was a cottage. Now, it is a lovely village pub with a cosy, lively atmosphere: warm terracotta walls, old pews and settles, and award-winning chefs who whip up great locally-sourced food – try the ham hock terrine with Rose Farm piccalilli or the Butcombe beer battered fish and chips served with home-made tartare sauce. They grow their own herbs and bake their own bread, too. The pub is dog-friendly so it makes a perfect pit-stop for walkers on the Mendip Trail. butcombe.com/pubs/queens-arms The Swan, Rowberrow This pub in Rowberrow, an ex-mining village, started out life as an old cider house. Thatchers is still served here, but it’s the food which attracts the punters these days (though cider does features heavily in the menu!): opt for the slow-cooked spiced pork belly with Ashton Press cider apple sauce, Welsh rarebit with Ashton Cider chutney, or roasted butternut squash and rosemary risotto. Walkers, horse-riders, cyclists and runners are all made very welcome. https://www.butcombe.com/pubs/swan-inn/ The Queen Victoria, Priddy This is one of those pubs that you long for after a day’s rambling around the Mendip Hills: roaring log fires, low beamed ceilings and flagstone floors, great real ales and a fantastic menu, which includes locally-sourced dishes such as Somerset brie and beetroot tart, and Priddy Farm ham, egg and chips. Dogs are welcome and there’s a great kids playground which will keep the little ones entertained for hours. http://www.queenvictoria.butcombe.com/ The Ring O’ Bells, Compton Martin This is Butcombe Brewery’s oldest owned pub and is perfect for walkers, fisherman, and families. You’ll find lots of delicious dishes on the menu, such as a trio of pork and Butcombe sausages with creamy mash, and local smoked trout salad with apple, capers and new potatoes. They have recently opened two rooms upstairs as B&B – a perfect country retreat in the heart of the Mendips. butcombe.com/pubs/ring-o-bells For more information on characterful places to stay, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Mendip Hills.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the New Forest, Philippa Jacks discovers there's more to this beautiful, natural region than just the National Park. As the rickety, electric train rattles along the pier, I begin to wish I’d waited until after my train ride to hear the story of the night the pier was sliced in two. In 2003, a drunken skipper smashed his dredger right through the middle of the 640-metre long pier, destroying a wide section of its planks and putting the Hythe Pier Train out of action for two months. From my windswept seat in the open-sided train, the end of the pier suddenly looks a very long way away, and the sea an awfully long way down. As we lurch along the track, I keep a cautious eye out for any boats that might be heading our way...but we reach the other end of the pier unscathed. Hythe Pier opened in 1879 and lays claim to the oldest pier train in the world. This small town on the coast of the New Forest has lots of interesting history.  A short walking tour with local guide Sarah gives me an insight into its Anglo-Saxon origins and maritime heritage. I also hear about one or two famous residents: Christopher Cockerell, inventor of the hovercraft, and even T.E.Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) for a short time. And as for what Hythe did with that drunken sailor: he got eight months in prison. A ride on the tiny, old-fashioned train is a real novelty, especially for kids, but Hythe Ferry, which sails from the end of the pier, is a vital commuter link across to Southampton. The journey takes 15 minutes, and you'll stare up in awe at colossal cruise ships preparing to start their voyage from the port; the new QE2 might be docked at the Cunard terminal if you’re lucky. Because of its proximity to the New Forest National Park, Hythe is also a handy gateway to the forest for those travelling without a car. Green travellers can take the 15-minute ferry from Southampton to Hythe (£4.10 return), and bring their own bikes onboard (an extra £1) or hire bikes when they get to Hythe. Cyclists can then hop onto National Route 2 of the National Cycle Network, and pedal straight into the forest. You can be forgiven for thinking ‘trees’ when you hear ‘New Forest’, but the New Forest District in fact reaches further than the National Park, and has more than 60 kilometres of coast. As well as Hythe, the coastal towns of Barton-on-Sea, Milford-on-Sea and Lymington are popular daytrips, with beaches and marinas to explore. Twitchers should head to Lymington-Keyhaven Nature Reserve – a huge, rich area of lagoons and marshes which attract wildfowl like shoveler and tern, and migrant wading birds like whimbrel and curlew sandpiper. • To arrange a talk/tour about Hythe and its famous pier, call 023 8084 0722. Where to stay Forge Place is a pretty B&B in the hamlet of Bockampton. Located on the southern edge of the New Forest, and to the west of Barton-on-Sea and Lymington, it’s a great base if you want to explore both the forest and the coast.  The two double, en-suite rooms are like small studios, with their own fridge and kitchen area, and are in a self-contained cottage at the bottom of the garden. Cheery host Caroline bakes her own bread and makes jams and preserves to serve at breakfast alongside cereals and a cooked breakfast – including eggs from her very own hens. Don’t eat just before checking in, as you’ll be welcomed by a wedge of naughty chocolate cake that you won’t be able to resist. Forge Place is a member of the New Forest’s Green Leaf Scheme, and generates much of its own energy from solar panels. I loved the smell from my wood-burning stove, which I fed with eucalyptus logs. The Lamb Inn, which serves good food, is right next door, or three other pubs are within walking distance. Most guests tend to drive, and bring their bikes with them, but you can reach Forge Place from Christchurch on the bus, or from Ringwood on National Express coach. Rooms are from £60 per night, including breakfast.

As we launch our Greentraveller's Guide to the Cotswolds AONB, writer Harriet O'Brien joins the Cotswolds AONB on one of their free guided walks and encounters rare butterflies and wild orchids on a stroll through some of the region's most beautiful landscape On Minchinhampton Common you’ll take in fabulous views across the western Cotswolds as you skirt freely-roaming cattle (dating from medieval times, it’s a tradition that local farms have the right to graze their animals there, you’ll learn). And as you walk along you may well find wild orchids at your feet, and see rare orange and brown Duke of Burgundy butterflies, too. Over to the north of the Cotswolds AONB, you’ll hear tales about the wonderfully eccentric collector and craftsman Charles Wade Paget as you stroll through Snowshill village. And as you pass handsome Snowshill Manor where he lived you’ll be told how he entertained literary friends there, including Graham Greene, Virginia Woof and J B Priestley. (Sounds an unlikely combination? Well, the quirkiness resonates with Wade Paget himself). There’s nothing like local insight for an all-absorbing experience, and you get it by the bucketful on guided walks offered across the Cotswolds by the AONB. What’s more, the great majority of them are free – although donations at the end are welcome and are used to support local projects. The walks are graded from easy to strenuous, one mile to 12 or more, an hour to four or sometimes five. And for most of them you simply turn up at a given spot, no booking necessary. Schedules of walks and details of the gathering points are given on the AONB’s website and in the AONB’s twice-yearly Cotswold Lion newspaper, available free in tourist offices, libraries and some shops and cafes in the region. It’s thanks to the scheme of Cotswold voluntary wardens ‒ started in the late 60s – that the walks take place, explains John Bartram, who is the head warden. There are more than 320 people actively involved, none of them paid (with the exception of a part-time administrator) and all of them passionate about the countryside. Quite apart from running guided walks, the wardens look after footpaths (particularly the Cotswold Way and other popular trails), removing any fallen branches, picking up litter (sadly, there’s a need for this) and generally conserving the paths; they oversee projects from installing kissing gates to putting up bat boxes and clearing ponds; they give shows and talks to promote the Cotswolds; and they work with schools, arranging discovery days out for children. The first AONB guided walks started in 1975. They are entirely the creation of individual wardens, John says. By no means do all wardens take walks; some might blench at leading a group and at the public speaking required. However, others thrive on sharing their knowledge. ‘There aren’t any set routes,’John adds. ‘If a warden wants to create a walk, he or she masterminds the topic and sets the trail – it’s all driven by personal enthusiasm and personal interests.’ There are, for example, regular mile-and-a-half town walks around Chipping Campden focussing on architecture and history; there are wild flower walks; canal walks; summer evening walks; and winter night walks to see the stars. And there’s certainly no agenda that must be followed in any given area: you might take a literary walk in the Snowshill district, but equally there could be a walk focussing on geology in part of the same area. In the eastern Cotswolds, for example, Rosemary Wilson leads walks that she devises to appeal to children as well as adults. A former teacher, she says that her themes generally relate in some way to the interaction of people and agriculture. Some of her walks have involved tractors and trailer rides for children ‒ and it is for activities such as these that booking is sometimes required and a charge made. For other walks she might engage younger participants by handing them pictures of wild flowers to look out for together with intriguing information, such as how silverweed roots were eaten before potatoes were brought to Britain. ‘It’s all about getting a group of people engaged with the countryside,’ she says., ‘getting them to think about the landscape in a different way and adding a new dimension to their appreciation of the environment’. John Bartram himself guides walks in the southern Cotswolds – near Bath, and around the Dyrham Park area. Creating the walks and the themes around them is enormously enjoyable, he says, and enormously time-consuming, too. You do a great deal of research over your chosen topic, he explains. And you spend a lot of time looking at routes and testing out trails ‒ indeed you’ll walk a good 20 miles to create a five-mile walk. A few days before the walk takes place, you’ll pre-walk it to check that the paths are clear and that there are no untoward difficulties such as a broken stile. Were there to be a charge reflecting all the time and effort involved, he says, the walks would command an amazing fee. So as it is they are literally priceless. Written by Harriet O'Brien

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Dorset Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Jackie King picks out the options for a greener holiday among this rich and varied landscape, from the Jurassic Coast in the south to the chalk downs and Hambledon Hill in the north. The quilt of this strikingly beautiful landscape is embroidered with geological wonders, remarkable prehistoric sites, captivating villages and haunting ruins. Deep valleys and of the west give way to the open heathland of the Purbeck Peninsula in the east. Much of the striking terrain provides an important conservation habitat that spectacularly supports a wide range of flora and fauna. Perhaps the most jaw-dropping and multi-generationally captivating aspect of Dorset is the stretch of 200-million-year-old shoreline that UNESCO declared a World Heritage Site. The Jurassic Coast part of it runs from Exmouth in Devon to Studland Bay’s Old Harry’s Rocks and Dorset can claim a whole 71 miles of it as its own. The fascination of being able to walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs and to happen across beautiful fossils gives a unique and compelling reason to return again and again. Visitors enjoy the rich and varied opportunities to explore a preserved and protected environment and discover many corners that feel locked in time. It is refreshing to experience different paces of life… one minute the happy buzz of wandering from stall to stall in town markets, another the serenity of big open skies on head-clearing walks; the convivial atmosphere in log-fired pubs drinking local ale one evening, then delightful solitude as you splash about in quiet coves. Remarkably, for much of the year you can unhurriedly explore iconic sites such as Durdle Door, Lulworth Cove, magnificent Poole harbour and West Bay without the crowds. Where to stay Finding a place to rest your head in Dorset is not difficult – the AONB is peppered with lovely self-catering cottages, warm and cosy B&Bs, family-friendly campsites and charming inns and hotels. All these places have been chosen for the owners’ commitment to the environment – a stay at any of them won’t play on your eco conscience. Whatever your boat, we have something to float it. We defy you not to fall in love with the magnificent camping set-up at Mallinsons – which will you choose to stay in… a house in a veteran oak tree, a bell tent, yurts, tipi or shepherd’s hut? You’ll have woodland showers, a sauna, a games yurt and an ‘Out of Africa’ kitchen. To complete the perfection, there’s a pizza oven, too, so come prepared. At Monkton Wyld Court you choose between a B&B where you prepare a do-it-yourself vegetarian breakfast at a time of your choosing, a hostel with dorms or camping on the west lawn with a firepit and showers thrown in. Best of all, Monkton Wyld runs some brilliantly inspiring courses. How about hedge laying, foraging, yurt building or small-scale dairy farming? Laid-back sybarites will swoon over the idea of a break in the achingly cool Pig on the Beach at Studland. The kitchen garden drives the menus, along with local suppliers and you eat the delicious outcomes in a sea view conservatory. Find a path down to the beach, a beach hut and Dorset Horn sheep roaming happily. Finally, for the community-minded there are affordable stays at Lulworth Cove, Swanage and Litton Cheney YHAs. Where to eat From Dorset-reared beef to crab, lobster and mussels collected along the coast, to creamy local cheeses and breweries and vineyards scattered throughout the AONB – if sampling local flavours is high on your holiday to-do list, Dorset won't disappoint. The AONB has a thriving café culture and you won't be short of places to wind down in after a day roaming around the coast or countryside, from local tea shops to Michelin-starred restaurants. And when tired limbs yearn for something a little stronger, a cosy pub should be just the thing. Over in Wareham find The Salt Pig, a paean to the richness of Dorset’s produce. Fab bread, wicked cakes and local charcuterie can be taken away or eaten in the café. A fishmongers and an off licence have been added to the line-up. Hix Oyster and Fish House needs little introduction these days and this sassy little shed with views over the Cobb will delight more than your taste buds. Mark Hix has quite an empire, yet he is seen sometimes at weekends, either glimpsed in the kitchen or setting off on his fishing boat in search of mackerel. Or how about a pub to cosy up in? The Acorn is a 16th-century coaching inn in glorious Evershot and more than a touch Hardy-esque; the village is well worth a wander. Where to visit No visit to Dorset would be complete without a trip to the Jurassic Coast, the beautiful cliffs of which embrace the AONB. There's no doubt that the coastline is stunning and definitely deserving of the attention it receives from visitors to the region, but there is a whole host of other exciting and entertaining things to see and do in the area to reward the visitor who goes a bit deeper. There are rolling valleys and villages of chocolate-box cuteness to explore, fascinating visitor centres and pockets of peace and tranquillity found in public gardens and impressive castles. With so much to do in the great outdoors, it can be difficult to take yourself inside, but there are also some fascinating museums detailing the region's history, geology and archaeology, which will keep the family amused. Corfe Castle is sure to ignite the imagination of old and young – the ruins with arrow slits, the keep walls, the motte and bailey and its majestic site atop a hillock will fire up young would-be knights; its history as a Saxon and Norman fortress and a royal palace will delight romantics. A visit to the National Trust site should be combined with lunch in one of the three pubs in the village. The 25 acres of the Swan Sanctuary at Abbotsbury are a pocket of serenity where you can stroll through the world’s only managed colony of nesting mute swans. Feeding happens at 12 and 4pm and, before or after, Abbotsbury itself is worthy of exploration, with its subtropical gardens and children’s farm. Away from the sea there are rolling hills and gentle valleys, one of which, the Cerne Valley, is presided over by the Cerne Abbas Giant carved into the chalkland. The lush valley runs from Minterne Magna to Charmouth and is known for its butterflies, barn owls, kestrels and buzzards. Things to do If you're after a varied landscape, a protected area that combines seascapes, rolling hills and quaint hamlets, you can't do much better than Dorset. From the South West Coast Path to demanding off-road cycle trails, the region has plenty to keep walkers and cyclists busy, but If you want to take in the beauty of the landscape at a more leisurely pace, there is mile upon mile of relatively flat walking routes, bridle paths and footpaths, making it easy to get around the AONB under your own steam. Whether you're visiting in the midst of winter or the peak of summer, whether you're blessed with blue skies or have to endure heavy clouds, the coast, countryside and character-packed villages of one of England's most beautiful regions have plenty to keep you entertained. The Dorset section of the South West Coast Path is a heady prospect and offers exceptional views, especially around Golden Cap and Old Harry’s Rocks. The end of the epic path is celebrated by a sculptural installation at the end of Studland Beach, just by the chain ferry. Demanding off-road cycle trails should sate the appetite of adrenalin junkies – see 1 South West, but if you want to take in the beauty of the landscape at a more leisurely pace, miles of relatively flat routes that are more easily navigable, check out The West Dorset Pedal. Kayaking is a great way to explore the coast, and the Studland Sea School has gear to borrow for a sea safari. Keep your eye out on calm days for seahorses, pipefish and flatfish. For snorkelling in the famously clear waters, Kimmeridge is a favourite spot to explore the limestone beds. On the Smugglers Trail the family can set off with an audio recording that tells tales of 17th- and 18th-century smugglers Jake Diamond, Issac Gulliver and the like. It leads on to the site of Stonebarrow Hill above Charmouth and along the way children can do crayon rubbings at nine stops. Getting to the Dorset AONB by public transport The Dorset AONB remains for the most part gloriously unspoilt and retains an otherworldly air due largely to the fact that no motorways pass through the region. The area is well connected by rail, but thereafter, getting to the rural heart of many parts requires some patience over buses, or opting to go by bike or car (there are park and ride services at Weymouth, Dorchester and Norden). For detailed travel info: mapping.dorsetforyou.com/TravelDorset By rail Dorset is served by a rail network from many main towns across the UK, with direct trains operated by SouthWest Trains from London Waterloo stopping at Bournemouth, Dorchester and Weymouth, plus Sherbourne and Axminster (for Lyme Regis). Other operators include First Great Western (which also runs the Heart of Wessex line - a picturesque 87-mile route from Bristol to Weymouth via Bath, Wiltshire and Somerset before traversing the Dorset AONB) and Cross Country (for services out of Bournemouth to the north of England). There’s also a charming steam train option: Swanage Railway runs between Norden, just outside Corfe Castle, and Swanage. The old railway line was demolished in 1972, but has been enthusiastically reinstated and the service is run by a team of 500-plus volunteers. Swanage Railway is an ongoing project, with work currently taking place to link the line with the national rail service from Wareham station. By bus National Express runs regular services to Bournemouth, Dorchester and Weymouth, Sherbourne and Axminster, as well as Bridport, Honiton, Yeovil and Exmouth. Getting around Dorset by bus is possible, but there are only limited services so it's a good idea to plan your trip before you go. The Jurassic Coaster X53 service operated by First Group, runs from Exeter along the coast via Beer, Seaton, Lyme Regis, Abbotsbury, Chickerell, Weymouth, Osmington, Wareham and Poole. It's an hourly and very reliable service in the summer, and two hourly (and still reliable!) in winter. It provides an excellent opportunity to go on one-way walks along the coast and to visit the market and coastal towns. The ‘More from Wilts & Dorset’ group offers regular services (but not on Sundays) between Poole, Wareham and Swanage on the number 40 bus, and between Bournemouth, Studland and Swanage on the number 50 bus. Further information for getting around the Dorset AONB For detailed local travel information visit mapping.dorsetforyou.com (includes timetables, live bus times, bus passes and concessionary travel, and accessible community transport) or Traveline (0871 200 2233 for impartial information on planning your journey by bus, coach or train). Google Maps app is invaluable for comparing journeys by bike, train, car and on foot, and also for scheduling any kind of journey. For more idea of green holidays in Dorset: Green Traveller’s Guide to Dorset AONB

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Somerset and Exmoor, Nicola Forsyth describes how to have a greener holiday in Somerset and Exmoor, a land of castles and clifftops, of charming hamlets and wild moors, of clean air and burbling brooks, of starling murmurations and stags roaring in the southwest of England. Where to stay When it comes to accommodation, all tastes and budgets are catered for - including an Elizabethan manor house, a Tudor farmhouse on an organic farm, a traditional cottage offering panoramic views out to Cheddar Gorge and a yurt retreat on a working Dairy Farm. For easy access to the Mendip Hills and vistas stretching out as far as Cheddar Gorge, consider Gorge View Cottage in Mendip. The old gardener's cottage was recently renovated to exacting environmental standards with access to the large permaculture garden. The cottage boasts a four-star Visit Britain grading and a Green Tourism Gold award and will offer a 10% discount for those arriving by foot, bicycle or public transport. Nestled in the heart of Exmoor National Park, Exmoor House is a guesthouse that combines the homeliness feeling of a B&B (complete with homemade food) and the comfort of a cosy country hotel. The Edwardian guesthouse is perfectly located for exploring the Park by bike or on foot. Nearer the coast in Lynton - also known as ‘Little Switzerland’ - another Edwardian house awaits. Close to the Valley of Rocks and Exmoor National Park, The Denes is a traditional B&B offering locally sourced food and easy access to numerous walking and cycling routes. If you want to take a step even further back in time while in Lynton, Longmead House fits the bill. Showcasing ‘Victorian Boutique’, it houses a rustic dining room, individually designed bedrooms and exposed beams. Following rave reviews, a selection of the B&Bs homemade breakfast food is now available to buy online. For a very local experience, consider staying in one of only two working watermills in Somerset. Burcott Mill Guest House still produces organic flour, and visitors are welcome to wander the mill museum. Parts of the Grade II listed building have been converted into B&B rooms and a self-catering bolthole for two. Just beyond the doorstep you will find Country pubs, walks and historic market towns. Larger groups (of 10-200) may want to consider the variety of accommodation on offer at Fernhill Farm - including eco-camping barns, a horseshoe of converted cowsheds and “Ramshackle Arcs” (shepherds huts). The 160-acre working farm in the Mendips takes in grassland, woodland, an orchard and a kitchen garden. The farm aims to become self-sustaining - with a self-computerised log boiler, water harvesting, and wetland eco-treatment system which purifies all dirty water without the use of chemicals, which in turn has created new habitats for wildlife species. Tucked away in a secluded valley on the National Trust Holnicote Estate, you’ll find Hindon Organic Farm. The 380-hectare stock farm is within touching distance of Minehead, Dunster, Porlock and the coast. The 18th-century farmhouse has three bedrooms with tree-themed names and individual styles. Named National Organic Producer of the Year in 2003-04, its food also comes recommended by Rick Stein and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Serious walkers may be tempted by West Hollowcombe Cottages, which sits on the Two Moors Way route - a 100+ mile jaunt from Ivybridge on the southern boundary of Dartmoor National Park to Lynmouth on the North Devon Coast. Where to eat Local produce abounds in Somerset and Exmoor and you’ll easily find this fine local fair of breads, cheeses, ciders, cakes and more, in any number of the independent shops, farmers’ markets and festivals. Unless you’d prefer to pick your own, in which case you could join a foraging workshop to learn how to spot nature’s bounty. The area is home to a number of well known and much-loved food and drink brands including Thatchers Cider in Sandford. The Thatcher family has been producing cider on their 380 acre farm for more than 100 years - using the same oak vats, recipes and ingredients that William Thatcher created in 1904. Committed to protecting the farmland for future generations, the family has planted 200 acres of orchards in recent years, as well as 2,000 native British trees (ash, beech, oak). Scrumpy cider fans can work their way through the four kinds on offer at Torre Cider Farm, before soaking it up at the onsite pizza and music nights or tea room. You can also visit another well known brand - Yeo Valley - and learn about the dairy farm’s origins on Holt Farm, dating back to the 1960s as well as wandering some of its 18 organic gardens. Aside from it’s hugely popular yoghurt, Yeo Valley also dedicates considerable effort to teaching school children about sustainability. If you’d rather experience a full country supper club experience - or if you time it right, sample a taster menu cooked by a guest chef - check events happening at Clavelshay Barn. They also host workshops if you want to hone your cooking skills, as well as drawing, nature walks and cheesemaking with lunch. Ale fans visiting Cheddar Gorge, may want to consider a stop off (or tour) at Cheddar Ales microbrewery. Head brewer, Jem Ham, uses natural ingredients, all of which are sourced from English suppliers, and time-honoured methods to produce a fine selection - such as Totty Pot and George Best. CAMRA members may also be interested in The Bridge Inn in Dulverton, named its 'Pub of the Season' in Autumn 2013. Sitting on the River Barle, the classic country pub dates back to 1845 and offers hearty pub grub. It also has a silver grading by the green tourism business scheme. Beer lovers can get their fix at Butcombe Brewery, in Wrington. Established in 1978, it produces some 50,000 barrels of beer a year. The Brewery’s oldest owned pub - The Ring O’ Bells in Compton Martin - is also a perfect pit stop for walkers, fisherman, and families. For something a little more, err wild, why not sample the local plants and insects? Join Go Wild and forage for bugs and nettles to snack on in the Mendips. They offer a number of low impact activities as well as accommodation. If however, you find yourself not wanting to venture out at all one evening, there’s a Community Benefit Society of local producers, based in Glastonbury, that delivers fresh, local food throughout Somerset. Where to visit While the region is famed for possibly the most famous music festival in the world - Glastonbury, which is due to host its 50th anniversary festival in 2021 (postponed from 2020 due to Covid 19) on its 900 acre home of Worthy Farm - it also plays host to lots of other food, drink and arts festivals. A relative newcomer on this front is Frome Festival, which hosts musical, theatrical, literary and artistic events over ten days in July. The most famous tourist attraction in the Mendips is probably the one million year old Cheddar Gorge. Formed by meltwater, the limestone gorge reaches 445 feet and a number of walks. Explore caves and visit the museum, which is dedicated to the discovery of Britain’s oldest skeleton, the Cheddar Man. Thrill-seekers can opt for caving or rock-climbing. For more family-friendly cave experiences, Wookey Hole Caves is a grotto of impressively-lit caves that will keep children entertained for hours. For adventure seeking water babies who want to enjoy the beauty of the South West in a more active way, there are plenty of places for wild swimming. Tunnel Beaches in Ilfracombe also offers family-friendly swimming and has been rated the 3rd best beach for rock pooling in the UK by BBC Wildlife Magazine. Initially used back in 1823, the hand carved tunnels offered Victorians a way to swim without compromising their modesty. History lovers may want to stop by 13th-century Dunster Castle. Part fortress, part comfortable country house, it’s also a flagship green property for the National Trust, part solar-powered and maximising composting, recycling and efforts to reduce energy consumption. There’s also Glastonbury Abbey - the fabled resting place of King Arthur. Traverse the 36 acre parkland and learn about its history, which dates back to the 7th century. Trainspotters are also in luck, as the region has a number of railway experiences including the last narrow-gauge railway adventure Lynton and Barnstaple Railway, Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway, a simple water-powered Victorian railway with a miniscule carbon footprint, diesel locomotives at Somerset and Dorset Railway and East Somerset Steam Railway where you can climb aboard an historic steam engine or the Mendip Belle dining train. Things to do Nature lovers will feel at home across Somerset and Exmoor with activities including birdwatching, cycling, climbing, fishing, stargazing, horse riding and walking, as well as tips on local craft and culture, falconry and watersports and wild swimming. As a first port of call, check out Somerset Wildlife Trust, which manages 1700 hectares of land for wildlife and people in Somerset, from large reserves to clusters of fields and woodlands and regularly hosts events and activities. Bird watchers flock (sorry!) to Somerset given its status as one of the best places to birdwatch in Britain. The Avalon Marshes lowland wetland area in the heart of Somerset is a particular highlight for spotting resident species as well as thousands of migratory birds, and especially for the starlings. If you’re very lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the otters. A more recently created wetland, Ham Wall is home to many rare species including water voles and otters. During autumn you may see kingfishers and bitterns are visible all year. The RSPB reserve hosts regular events for those who want to learn more about wildlife. To explore Somerset on foot, Bath-based Foot Trails offers off-the-beaten track walks - either as bespoke itineraries or guided tours - across Somerset (as well as the Cotswolds and Wiltshire). Encounter Walking Holidays offers a number of self-guided walks, taking in the best the region has to offer. For those looking to take the pressure off their feet for a while, there are many horse and pony rising opportunities - after all the area is famous for its Exmoor ponies. Divoky Riding School has a great selection of horses for accomplished riders and beginners alike to explore the surrounding countryside. Ebborlands Riding Centre is a small, family-run centre located on a 120-acre farm just outside Wells on the southern slopes of the Mendip Hills. It offers private lessons, a weekly Children's Club during school holidays, off-road hacking, multi day courses and holiday lets. Sitting in the middle of an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Shipam Riding focuses on fun, structured lessons as well as hacks into the surrounding countryside, which take a break for pub lunch and wild deer spotting. If you want to learn more about the area’s endangered and rare-breed Exmoor ponies, visit the Exmoor Pony Centre, where The Moorland Mousie Trust, works to conserve and promote the breed. Creative types may want to check events hosted by local charity, Somerset Art Works during their stay. The artist-led organisation works with the local community to bring together the best of contemporary art in Somerset as well as making it accessible for all. Budding snappers can join Jack and his team at Exmoor Photography Courses. You can also combine a course with a seasonal safari, such as the red deer rut in October. To round off your stay, why not spend the evening stargazing. Due to its dark skies, Exmoor National Park is Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserve. The status means the night sky above the Park has special protection against light pollution. If you’d like to learn more, there are many events for all ages - including nightwalks, workshops, talks and the Exmoor Dark Skies Festival in October. For more idea of green holidays in Somerset and Exmoor, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Somerset and Exmoor

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Peak District, Nicola Forsyth picks out the options for a low carbon holiday among this rich and varied National Park. From the heath moorland of the Dark Peak to the river valleys and caves of the White Peak, across rolling hills and dales, lush meadows and leafy forests, the Peak District is home to some of the country's finest scenery. A little known fact, the Peak District was the first National Park in Britain, designated back in 1951 - and with good reason. The Park boasts 1,600 miles of public rights of way and 58 miles of cycle trails spanning five counties: Derbyshire, Cheshire, Staffordshire, Yorkshire and Greater Manchester. With attractions ranging from hiking and cycling to canoeing and windsurfing on reservoirs and rivers there’s plenty to do for lovers of the great outdoors and families. From the delightful stepping stones in the scenic valley of Dovedale, cycling the 13 mile Tissington Trail and stopping off in the chocolate box town of Bakewell to sample the infamous Bakewell tart - these are just a few of the highlights the Peak District has to offer. Our Green Traveller's Guide to the Peak District highlights those local businesses that have been awarded the Peak District Environmental Quality Mark. The award is given to local businesses that put the environment at the heart of what they do and show passion for the Peak District. By frequenting these businesses you are helping to protect the things that make the Peak District special - while having an authentic experience that you'll never forget. Where to stay Whether you decide to camp, hole up in a cosy cottage or upgrade to a luxury hotel, you won’t be short of choice, and chances are you’ll wake up to stunning scenery that will help lift the weight of the world. All of our places have been chosen for their superb location – allowing you to begin your adventures from your very doorstep, so there’s no need to drive anywhere. Whether you’re looking to return to comforting home cooked food, a glass of wine in front of a log fire or star gazing from a yurt or tent, no option will disappoint and you'll be rewarded with peace and quiet. Better still, all of the places we list have all been awarded the Peak District Environmental Quality Mark, which highlights owners who are committed to conserving the natural environment that you have come to enjoy. If you’re looking for some outdoor luxury, you may wish to consider one of the self-catering log cabins, glamping pods or the gypsy caravan on offer at Hoe Grange Holidays. Nestled between the quaint towns of Ashbourne and Bakewell you’ll have endless countryside to explore from your doorstep and a Swedish log-fired hot tub and sauna to wind down in at the end of the day. The family-run farm has won awards for its dedication to eco-principles - from its farming practices to its cleaning products and the materials used to construct the cabins. If you’re looking for a cosy cottage to escape to, then Wheeldon Trees Farm Holiday Cottages offer a choice of nine, sleeping 1-5 people. The owners martin and Deborah live onsite and offer a welcoming breakfast basket and home cooked meals using as much locally sourced produce as possible. Avid eco-enthusiasts, they will also offer discounts to those arriving by public transport or by bike - or they will happily ferry guests in their hybrid car from nearby train and bus stations. They will even refund the costs of local bus journeys you take during your stay and on-site cycle hire is available, as well as secure bike storage. Dogs are also welcome so you can make it a trip for the entire family to enjoy - and you won’t be short of places to walk! Another great choice is Beechenhill Farm where you can stay in a secluded cottage on an organic dairy farm, complete with log fires, a wood-fired hot tub and barrel sauna for the ultimate unwinding holiday. The Farm is also the perfect spot for an eco wedding venue if you have more romantic intentions - this I can vouch for as I was lucky enough to witness two of my best friends tie the knot here a few years ago! Order local produce in advance of your stay and it will be waiting for you on arrival. For something a little more quirky, Secret Cloud House Holidays offer a number of eco-conscious yurts and tipis that open out to stunning views. Complete with wood fired hot tubs, an essential oil sauna and a 'Shepherds Rest' treatment room they offer pure luxury. The toiletries are handmade in Derbyshire while Staffordshire wool blankets will keep you snug at night - before you wake up to a hamper of delicious local food for breakfast. If you are looking for more budget and family-friendly options there are a number of YHA’s dotted around the Park - notably the YHA National Forest at the Conkers visitor centre, which gives access to walking and cycling routes as well as archery, birds of prey handling and llama trekking nearby. Families can also make use of the onsite cafe and games room. Campers can pitch up at Callow Top, a family-friendly camping and caravan park with onsite pub, pool and play area that also offers easy access to Ashbourne and the Tissington Trail. I spent a summer or two of my childhood here! Where to eat No visit would be complete without sampling the finest culinary treats the region has to offer. Be sure to intersperse your activities with pit stops to the many quaint and delicious eateries and traditional watering holes along the way. As you might expect from a National Park with a strong agricultural and farming heritage, local food is big business in the Peak District. The region is packed with a rich variety of local specialities: from lamb which has grazed on limestone dales, to organically-reared beef, to the hundreds of dairy products – cheeses, butter, ice cream – produced on farms which manage their field edges, woodlands and streams to benefit wildlife, and to the dozens of locally-brewed ales. One thing is certain, you won’t go hungry, and if your trip coincides with one of the monthly farmers markets, you can return home well stocked. First and foremost, you must try the famous Bakewell Pudding. One of the best spots to sample it is Bloomers of Bakewell - you may have to queue but believe me it’s worth it! The traditional bakery is one of only two in the world to know the secret recipe for the Bakewell Pudding. If you’re more of a savoury person, don't’ leave without a wedge of Hartington Stilton and some Derbyshire oatcakes to slather it on. You can pick up more local fare at Grindleford Community Shop, which lovingly supports a wealth of local food producers, artisans and projects as well as many organic, fair trade, eco and wholefood alternatives. Wine lovers (like me) will also want to stop off at the rather charming Hartington Cheese & Wine Co. (or two of its smaller shops at Eyam Hall and Arkwright’s Mill in Cromford) to stock up on locally made British wines and cheeses. Another locally-made delicacy the Peak District is not short of is ice-cream. Matlock Meadows Ice Cream Parlour, which is heated using a biomass boiler, offers a range of handmade ice-cream, made from the milk of its own dairy herd. Meanwhile, Blaze Farm also makes its famous 'Hilly Billy' ice cream using milk from its own herd and offers a few experimental flavours like turkish delight with white chocolate chip in addition to the norm. Far from being just a place to eat - there are numerous nature trails that'll take you on different routes through the farm, plus you can watch lambing in Spring and sheep-shearing during the Summer. For dinners out, the award-winning Orangery Restaurant at Losehill House Hotel & Spa strives to provide the highest quality food without compromising on quality or ethics. The restaurant’s pride in its quality ingredients is evident from the exceptional detail listed on its website! Savour the excellent food against a beautiful backdrop of rolling countryside - and what’s more, it can be easily reached by public transport. For quality traditional yet hearty pub fare, head to The Red Lion Inn. Alongside old favourites such as a Sunday carvery, it also rustles up dishes with a Sardinian twist - and at certain points in the year, full Sardinian banqueting evenings. The owner and chef makes his own Birchover Blue cheese using local milk and brews a range of real ales and an Italian style lager onsite. A short stroll from Ladybower Reservoir, you'll find The Yorkshire Bridge Inn Restaurant - an award-winning inn supporting local suppliers and traditional community events. An ideal base from which to explore this part of the Peak District, you’ll certainly be happy to reward yourself afterwards by sampling the pub’s extensive menu and great choice of beers and wines. If you’re in need of a pit stop, Cottage Kitchen is a welcoming countryside café and farm shop offering a variety of pastries, cakes and afternoon tea as well as breakfast and lunch. It also sells Cottage Delight - homemade fudge produced by the owner since 1974 Where to visit Spanning 550 square miles, the Peak District National Park is home to many outdoor centres and pursuits, castles, galleries and eco-conscious and artisan shops. No trip to the Peaks would be complete without a stop off to marvel at the grandeur of sprawling Chatsworth House. Home to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire since the 15th Century, its beautifully ornate rooms are filled with stunning architecture and famous art works. Sitting on the banks of the River Derwent, the 1,000-acre park is surrounded by picturesque gardens and fountains. If this leaves you hungry for more medieval manors, be sure to drop by Haddon Hall. Dating back to the 12th Century, it is home to Lord and Lady Edward Manners, whose family have lived here since 1567. Set within a stunning organic parkland, it is known to practice methods from Tudor times and takes care to reduce its impact on the environment. Unsurprisingly it’s charming setting has seen it become a popular choice as a film location, including: Jane Eyre, Mary Queen of Scots, The Other Boleyn Girl, Pride & Prejudice and The Princess Bride. You will find another ancient wonder in Peveril Castle, which overlooks the village of Castleton. First built by Henry II in 1176 it is one of England’s earliest Norman fortresses, and offers stunning views out over the Hope Valley. For an insight into Derbyshire’s mining roots and the area’s 2,000 year history, the Mining Museum gives a brutal account of what life was like underground. You can even try it yourself by climbing and clamouring your way through a maze of tunnels. For more information on the geology, archeology and history of the Peak District head to the Buxton Museum and Art Gallery, where you can view the 'Wonders of the Peak' time tunnel, including a collection of Ice Age animal bones and teeth plucked from Peak District caves and quarries as well a local fine art collection. For something a little more modern head to Dove Valley Centre. Its eco-converted Haybarn Studio is the base for arts and crafts and environmental courses and events allowing guests to take part in a range of rural crafts courses, from jewellery making to a fantastic 'Biodiversity Day', run by the Staffordshire Wildlife Trust. Things to do Undeniably, the main reason people flock to the Peak District is to explore its breathtaking scenery and reacquaint themselves with the great outdoors, be it on foot or by bike. Throw in top quality and eco-conscious accommodation, illustrious history and fine local food and drink and there’s little more you could want in a holiday. Boasting some 65+ miles of off-road trails and lanes, the Peaks offers endless options for walking and cycling for all abilities, while horse riding enthusiasts can choose from a wide range of specialist trails and self-guided adventures. Less well known, the area offers some of the best caving and climbing in the world. For family-friendly and gentle cycling, the Tissington Trail offers a rewarding 13 mile route along the old railway tracks from Ashbourne to Parsley Hay. It’s one of my earliest memories, and where I became a confident cyclist - and I have continued to visit ever since! If you don’t have your own bike, hire one from the starting point in Ashbourne and take in sweeping valley views before enjoying an ice-cream at refreshment points along the way. Children (and adults alike) will love the ancient tunnel at the beginning of the trail - listen out for the sound installation. Walkers and horse riders can also enjoy the trail. Another of my fondest childhood memories is hopping across the Stepping Stones in Dovedale in the southern Peak District. There are a number of walks to reach them, but try the leisurely 1.5 mile walk starting at Ilam Park across limestone countryside to reach the stepping stones, which have been in place since the middle of the 19th century. For a longer walk, continue along the valley to Milldale. The Peak District is easily accessible to navigate alone, but if you’re looking to learn more about the area while covering the must-see highlights then consider a guided tour with an experienced guide. Sally Mosley Guided Walks has a number of walks, some of which are themed - from brewery tours and food tasting trails to a Poole's Cavern underground experience while Peak Walking Adventures offers guided hill and moorland walks Peak with minimal environmental impact. Simply Walk takes the stress out of organising your trip by offering a self-guided walking holiday package. Runners may want to sign up for the annual Ashbourne Half Marathon. Starting in Ashbourne, which sits on the periphery of the Peak District, the half marathon is a small locally-run event open to around 200 runners, and it is one of the most scenic I have experienced. You’ll easily forget the toll on your feet, as you admire the stunning views, power up a few peaks and glide past cosy cottages adorned with sweet-smelling and colourful flower beds. For the more adventurous, I recommend the Roaches - a magnet for hikers and climbers located just above Leek and Tittesworth Reservoir. Climb the relatively easy boulders, rocky formations and, gritstone ridge (some thought to resemble mythical mermaids) to enjoy countryside views for as far as the eye can see. Be sure to start your day with a visit to any number of quaint cafes serving up cream teas and hearty breakfast fare. For more technical outdoor activities, Acclimbatize offers experiences and training for a range of pursuits, including mountaineering, rock climbing, caving and potholing, trekking and biking. Beyond the Edge is a specialist mountain training company, offering a range of adventures, training, technical advice and consultancy. For activities requiring a little less exertion, why not try your hand at horticulture. Peak Organics hosts a range of workshops and drop-in sessions, teaching the basic principles of organic horticulture and sustainable gardening to worm composting. Or if you’d rather learn the basics of dry stone walling, Walls for the Future will be happy to impart their wisdom and craftsmanship with you. See also our Car-free guide to the Peak District For more ideas of green holidays in the Peak District, see our: Green Traveller’s Guide to the Peak District National Park

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of B&Bs, hotels, self-catering and campsites in this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the Yorkshire Dales. There are lots of great places to stay in the Nidderdale AONB, so to help you narrow it down we’ve picked a varied selection to suit all occasions, tastes and budgets. Be lord of the manor at lavish Swinton Park, a castle hotel on its own vast estate, which has won awards for its green policies. Or you might prefer a traditional pub, in which case we have several suggestions (the beer is likely to be good, too). Perhaps opt for a B&B, such as the welcoming Cowscot House in Kirkby Malzeard (the breakfasts alone make a trip worthwhile), or stay in a farmhouse, far from the rest of the world. Campers have some unsual choices too – among our favourites are the eco-friendly Bivouac with its yurts, and the new ‘pods’ at Studfold. Whatever you're after, we're sure you'll be able to find something you like in our collection of green and gorgeous places to stay. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to stay in Nidderdale Sportsman’s Arms A family-run hotel and restaurant close to picturesque Pateley Bridge, the Sportsman’s Arms prides itself on offering a warm welcome, unpretentious service and great food. Chef-owner Ray Carter has created a menu that favours game – much shot within a mile of the restaurant – and daily deliveries from the coast bring fresh fish to the table. Linger in the cosy bar – a favourite with hikers – where a log fire roars in the winter, and local ales and fine wines are on the menu. There are great walks on the doorstep, pretty villages to explore nearby, and the hotel has fishing rights to a stretch of the River Nidd for keen anglers. sportsmans-arms.co.uk Wellington Inn For location and views across the Yorkshire Dales, the Wellington Inn is hard to beat. A pub with restaurant and 12 rooms, it’s a great base for exploring this beautiful region. The restaurant – think polished wooden floors, faded rugs and warm colours – is renowned for its use of local produce and delicious homemade fare, while locals and visitors enjoy the welcoming atmosphere of the pub with its inglenook fireplace. Stay in one of the super-clean, simple rooms and you can enjoy a hearty full-English breakfast – sure to set you up for a day in the great outdoors. wellington-inn.co.uk The Timble Inn Looking for a romantic place to stay? Check in to the Timble Inn – an 18th century Grade II listed coaching inn that marries old world charm with modern comfort. There are nine spacious rooms, with lots of lovely touches to make them feel particularly special, from top-quality Egyptian cotton linen to White Company toiletries. The restaurant focuses on using the finest locally sourced ingredients in its creative menu, all served in decadent surrounds – expect crisp white linen, sparkling silverware and candlelight at night (the Sunday lunch is a particular draw). Perfect for a romantic weekend away. thetimbleinn.co.uk High Green Farm Perched on the hillside of Nidderdale, this renovated farmhouse offers amazing views across Gouthwaite Reservoir. There are two pretty, light rooms (a double with adjacent bathroom and twin with en-suite shower) and under floor heating adds to the cosy feeling in winter. The traditional Aga cooked breakfasts include eggs from the farm and locally sourced produce. The historic Pateley Bridge is closeby, with traditional shops and tearooms, and all the region has to offer is easily accessible. highgreen-nidderdale.co.uk Mallard Grange Creaking floorboards, winding staircases and lovely antiques add to this rambling 16th-century farmhouse’s charm. Owners Charles and Maggie will make sure you feel at home – and their love of this glorious area and all it offers will inspire your exploration. It’s the kind of place you can kickback and really relax, with big comfy beds, and individual quirky touches in each room. The kitchen is at the heart of the house and guests breakfast around a large dining table, feasting on the likes of local black pudding, sausages from the next door farm and kedgeree with Nidderdale trout. mallardgrange.co.uk Moorhouse Guest House Follow in the footsteps of royals and celebrities (including Bing Crosby!) who have stayed in this gorgeous traditional country lodge in the Nidderdale AONB, on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales, 20 minutes from Harrogate. Built of creamy York stone and surrounded by rolling fields, the house has five double or twin rooms with views of Dallowgill Moor and unspoilt countryside. The award-winning breakfasts offer a huge choice from pancakes to a full English and afternoon tea and dinner are available on request – and there’s a great local pub the Drovers’ Inn, one of the smallest in England, just next door. moorhousebnb.co.uk Scaife Hall Farm Enjoy a stay on a working farm, far away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. The 600-acre Scaife Farm in Washburn Valley has amazing moor views and great walking right on the doorstep. There are three rooms and a guest lounge with log fires and tons of information on the local area. The hearty breakfasts have won awards – with free-range eggs from the farm’s hens naturally, sausage, bacon and black pudding often from home-reared pigs and Heather honey from the farm too, of course. scaifehallfarm.co.uk St Georges Court St George’s Court is a family home and 20-acre working farm (look out for the pigs and the children’s sheep) in Grantley, just outside Ripon. The five en-suite rooms have a cottagey feel and are set round a courtyard, each with its own front door. Besides all the great local walks and adventures to be had nearby, guests can try a spot of fly fishing in the farm’s lake. The breakfasts are up there with the best and will set you up for the day. stgeorgescourt.co.uk Park House B&B Two workers’ cottages were converted to form Park House, which boasts an amazing location in the grounds of Jervaulx Abbey – and it’s the home of the abbey’s owners Carol and Ian Burdon. Partly built with stone from the abbey, the house is full of tasteful antiques, and each of the four guest rooms is finished to immaculate standards (the luxury room even has a whirlpool bath) – capturing that home away from home feeling. The little touches here make a big difference – from complimentary tea and cakes on arrival to free entry into the abbey. For those seeking peace and quiet book in now – Park House is a kid-free zone. jervaulxabbey.com Cold Cotes This gorgeous 19th century farmhouse has been painstakingly restored by owners Ed and Penny who welcome guests with open arms. There’s a super-comfy sitting room with squishy sofas (Ed’s paintings hang on the walls), and the six bedrooms (in the house and barn) are top-notch with little extras like WiFi and luxury toiletries. The gardens are a work of art with various ‘zones’, from woodland walks to stone-flagged terraces and the fruit and vegetable section. Breakfasts are equally satisfying – the home-made marmalade is not to be missed. coldcotes.com Royal Parade Apartments, Yorkshire Three luxury apartments combining ethical green credentials with five-star luxury. Experience the luxury of a hotel along with the comforts and privacy of a home from home in an unrivalled location. royalparade.co.uk Yorkshire Bolt Holes Yorkshire Bolt Holes offers two lovely 18th-century cottages just for two in Nidderdale – Ashknott Cottage in Kirkby Malzeard and Bewerley Hall Cottage in Bewerley. Beautifully decorated, this is self-catering in style (think Cath Kidston touches in the kitchen, the best linen and towels and locally-sourced, natural toiletries). Owner Sarah Manby greets guests at their cottage and gives them the lowdown on what to do and where to go over a cup of tea and slice of homemade lemon drizzle cake. yorkshireboltholes.com Helme Pasture Set in 29 acres of woodland, Helme Pasture is a picturesque country retreat with Scandinavian-style lodges and self-catering cottages. The newly-designed wooden lodges, which blend perfectly into the surrounding woods, sleep from two to eight people, while the well-equipped stone cottages sleep up to four. The location is perfect for checking out the area’s market towns and villages and natural attractions – and then returning to your own home sweet home. helmepasture.co.uk West Leas Farm The stone barns on West Leas Farm close to Ripon, have been converted into five lovely cottages. Each has its own character, though all offer everything you need for self-catering in comfort (they sleep from two to five people). The villages of Kirkby Malzeard and Galphay are within walking distance and the location’s great for exploring all Nidderdale has to offer. westleas.co.uk Studfold There’s a traditional caravan and camping park at Studfold in Upper Nidderdale – or you could opt for a spot of ‘glamping’ and bag yourself one of the new camping ‘pods’. The wooden pods offer beds for two, have lights, heating and even a kettle! The camping facilities here are top-notch, the scenery simply beautiful and the location just right for exploring Nidderdale and the Yorkshire Dales. Studfold has an award-winning adventure nature trail too – fantastic for families. studfold.com Old Station Yard This family-run caravan and camping site is in a pretty, secluded location within walking distance of Masham. There’s a modern heated toilet and shower block and newly opened café, The Goods Shed, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and uses produce from local businesses. oldstation-masham.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of museums, historic sites and natural attractions in this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the Yorkshire Dales. As an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, it goes without saying that the great outdoors is the key draw for many visitors to Nidderdale. Sites - like the wonderful formations of Brimham Rocks, the dramatic How Stean Gorge, and beautiful Hackfall Wood - make natural playgrounds. Besides all this natural goregousness, there are plenty of man-made wonders too. The ruins Jervaulx Abbey are atmospheric and impressive, while some of the impressive reservoirs are true feats of engineering. Across the region there are pretty villages to explore, while Pateley Bridge, the only town entirely in the AONB, is a picturesque place and home to the oldest sweetshop in England. Great museums tell the tale of the area, galleries sell the wares of local artists – and just outside the AONB in Masham, the two traditional breweries are worth a stop. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places of interest in Nidderdale Coldstones Cut Not a gallery or a museum, as such, but one of the AONB's newest attractions is a striking sculpture with viewing platforms over Coldstones Quarry which still operates today. Designed to illustrate the connection between the landscape and the quarry the views are magnificient. Leadmining, quarrying and lime burning had an important part to play in the area's history and you can learn more at the ruins of Toft Gate Lime Kiln nearby. thecoldstonescut.org Masham Gallery Selling work by around 50 artists and craftspeople, most of them from Yorkshire, Masham Gallery is the place to come for inspiring and unusual pieces of art, from ceramics to screenprints – and there’s jewellery, toys and other gifts sold here too. Run by artist Josie Beszant, art workshops are also held at the gallery – everything from knitting classes to blacksmithing – as well as regular exhibitions throughout the year. mashamgallery.co.uk Nidderdale Museum Step back in time and discover how life in the Dales has changed through the ages at The Nidderdale Museum. From a cobblers shop to a Victorian parlour, rooms have been laid out as they would have been in times gone by and reflect the lives of ordinary people. There’s also exhibitions on agriculture, industry and religion, as well as an interesting costume display. Staffed entirely by volunteers who want to preserve a record of a traditional way of life that’s fast disappearing, the Musuem Society also has its own programme of activities, with talks on topics of local interest. nidderdalemuseum.com Ramsgill Studio A gallery and working studio in the pretty village of Ramsgill, various exhibitions are held here throughout the year and there’s a fine selection of arts and crafts on sale. Among artists are Sarah Garforth, who paints and sketches local landscapes, and Eric Ward who creates beautiful ceramics and glazed sculptures. A great choice of jewellery, ceramics and textiles are on offer too. If you want to tap into your creative side sign up for one of the workshops which run regularly, covering everything from sylised watercolours or drawing animals to mosaics. ramsgillstudio.co.uk Black Sheep Brewery Established in October 1992, this new but traditional brewery in Masham was set up by Paul Theakston, of the brewing family fame. Making real beer in the time-honoured fashion, original equipment was sourced from across the country – and visitors can join a tour to find out how an award-winning ale is made. Afterwards you can pop into the Black Sheep Baa..r & Bistro for a snack, lunch or dinner, which uses produce from the local area to create British favourites with a twist. blacksheepbrewery.com Jervaulx Abbey This once towering Cistercian abbey, founded in 1156, was plundered and pillaged during the 16th century Dissolution of the Monasteries. What remains today are the romantic crumbling ruins, clad in wild flowers and vegetation, standing proud against the beautiful backdrop of the Yorkshire Dales. Privately owned, it remains open to the public and there’s a tea room on site (compelte with a scale model of the abbey as it would have looked in 1530). While the abbey was sold and its wealthy redistributed, some of the fixtures can be seen in parish churches in the area – and there’s a trail you can follow to hunt them out. Bed and breakfast is also available at Park House on the estate and there’s a beautiful caravan park too. jervaulxabbey.com Washburn Heritage Centre A modern extension to the 17th century Fewston Church, the Heritage Centre celebrates the history of the Washburn Valley through exhibitions and events, from talks to food and drink tastings. Overlooking the Swinsty Reservoir and surrounded by woodlands, it’s a great place to check out frequently changing exhibitions on aspects of local heritage, and there’s a permanent exhibition in the church itself. There’s a tearoom too for when you fancy a rest. washburnvalley.org Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal Water Garden A Cistercian abbey, Georgian water garden and medieval deer park rolled into one, this World Heritage Site, set in 800 acres of beautiful English countryside, makes a great day out. Wander around the most complete Cistercian abbey in the country (originally built in the 12th century, when 13 monks came looking for a simpler life), discover its history in the Porter’s Lodge exhibition (you can even don an itchy monk’s robe) and spot deer in Studley Royal. There are various walks and cycling paths and activities like ‘geocaching’ – a type treasure hunt for the digital generation too. Studley tea room and Fountains Restaurant offer mostly local fare for refuelling. nationaltrust.org.uk/fountains-abbey-and-studley-royal-water-garden How Stean Gorge How Stean Gorge, a spectacular 80ft limestone gorge near Lofthouse village, is a perfect natural playground. For a gentle adventure you can follow the maze of footpaths beside the gorge, checking out the plunging waterfalls along the way, but for more adrenaline-pumping activity there’s plenty of choice from abseiling to caving or canoeing. Try the new Via Ferrata course, an aerial network of beams, ladders and cables (one of only two in the UK), while the gorge scramble will have you abseiling, sliding and wading through water. The three-hour How Stean Experience costs £50, while a day of five activities is £95. It’s great for families, there’s a restaurant and a camp site should you wish to stay the night (bring your own or book the tipi). howstean.co.uk Stump Cross Caverns A complex limestone cave system, which runs for almost 6km, Stump Cross offers a magical world of stalactites and stalagmites to explore. First discovered in 1860 by miners looking for lead seams, the caves were opened to tourists in the 1920s. Watch a film about the caverns’ history and geology and then explore the show caves – deeper caverns are only accessible to experienced cavers. In the visitor’s centre you can see the remains of wolverines – a giant member of the weasel family that were discovered here. stumpcrosscaverns.co.uk Hackfall Wood Hailed by 19th-century writers as one of the most beautiful woodlands in the country and captured by artists such as Turner, this 120-acre wood, owned by the Woodland Trust, is a rambling mass of wild and ancient trees. Landscaped by John Aislabie (famous for Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal) and his son William – who added grottos, rustic temples and follies – it was a favourite with Victorians who flooded here in huge numbers. After falling into decay, the woods have been restored to their former glory, partly thanks to £1 million Heritage Lottery Fund restoration project, and are once again a wonderful place to wander, the mood changing with the seasons. hackfall.org.uk Washburn Valley Lying between the valleys of Lower Wharfedale and Lower Nidderdale, Washburn Valley offers amazing views and walks through various habitats, from woodlands and moorlands, via rivers and streams. The River Washburn’s source starts at Washburn head and it flows south via Thruscross Reservoir and the 19th century reservoirs of Fewston, Swinsty and Lindley Wood. The reservoirs support a broad range of wildlife, from tufted duck and teal to goldcrest and curlew. washburnvalley.org For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale, Paul Bloomfield picks out a selection of restaurants, pubs, cafés and other local food outlets in this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in the Yorkshire Dales. The rich farmland in the Nidderdale AONB means there’s no shortage of quality natural ingredients for local restaurants to plunder. You’ll find top-notch eateries and tiny delis and farm shops bursting with culinary delights from the local area. Sample the wares of one of the best chefs in the country at the Michelin-starred The Yorke Arms in Ramsgill, which uses produce from its own kitchen garden. Several pubs, such as the Wellington Inn in Darley, are known for great food too, again drawing on local sources. Taking time for tea is a must, and there are plenty of places offering a fine brew to go with tasty cakes for refuelling. But what you really mustn’t miss is a pint of local ale. There are two breweries in Masham where you can learn about traditional production methods – and sample the result, naturally. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale: Green = Places to stay Blue = Local food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Places to eat in Nidderdale Vennell’s Restaurant Situated in the lovely town of Masham, this recently refurbished restaurant offers carefully crafted cuisine that suits the elegant surrounds. The philosophy is to use fresh local produce – and it’s one which has helped reap the awards including 2 AA rosettes and a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide. The menu changes with the season, but for starters expect the likes of venison carpaccio with pickled vegetables and parmesan or a salad of crispy pork belly, sautéed apples and stuffing. Mains might include braised ox cheeks with creamed potatoes, lamb 3 ways or roast partridge with poached pair – and it would be rude to miss desert when delights like chocolate terrine is on the menu. Great value adds to the tastiness too (a three course Sunday lunch is just £21.50). With only 30 seats it does book up, so plan ahead and don’t miss out. vennellsrestaurant.co.uk Wellington Inn For location and views across the Yorkshire Dales, the Wellington Inn is hard to beat. A pub with restaurant and 12 rooms, it’s a great base for exploring this beautiful region. The restaurant – think polished wooden floors, faded rugs and warm colours – is renowned for its use of local produce and delicious homemade fare, while locals and visitors enjoy the welcoming atmosphere of the pub with its inglenook fireplace. Stay in one of the super-clean, simple rooms and you can enjoy a hearty full-English breakfast – sure to set you up for a day in the great outdoors. wellington-inn.co.uk Black Sheep Brewery Established in October 1992, this new but traditional brewery in Masham was set up by Paul Theakston, of the brewing family fame. Making real beer in the time-honoured fashion, original equipment was sourced from across the country – and visitors can join a tour to find out how an award-winning ale is made. Afterwards you can pop into the Black Sheep Baa..r & Bistro for a snack, lunch or dinner, which uses produce from the local area to create British favourites with a twist. blacksheepbrewery.com Rosebud Preserves The cutely named Rosebud Farm specialises in creating preserves that are jam packed (excuse the pun) with fruits and herbs and made from the finest ingredients. The team makes over 50 sweet and savoury preserves, mainly by hand using small batches of mostly local fruits and flowers picked from surrounding hedgerows and gardens. Choose from delights such as rhubarb and ginger jam, lemon curd, beetroot and horseradish relish and apple and hot chilli herb jelly. There’s not a retail shop, but the farm is happy to recive visitors by appointment – call in advance. Alternatively order online. rosebudpreserves.co.uk Birchfield Family Dairies One of Yorkshire’s premier ice cream producers, Birchfield Farm in Summerbridge uses the creamiest milk from its Jersey cows and only natural ingredients for the tastiest results. Check out the farm shop – where you’ll find all sorts of delights besides 30 flavours of delicious ice cream, from butter to yogurts, rice pudding to sorbets. There’s also an Ice Cream Parlour and Tea Rooms where you can enjoy a treat (go for a knickerbocker glory if you can’t decide on the flavour – it’s a tough decision). birchfieldicecream.co.uk Mackenzies Yorkshire Smokehouse An award-winning smokehouse with a shop choc-full of goodies you won’t want to leave without, from kippers to dry cured bacon. Traditional methods of curing and smoking are used, burning only pure oak to ensure natural flavours – and all foods are free from artificial colours. There’s an on-site restaurant too where head chef Andy Wilkinson offers breakfast and lunch (smoked fish bruschetta for starters, followed by chicken breast stuffed with Mackenzie’s parma ham)– and a range of cakes is served all day too. Most produce is from the smokehouse or local suppliers, so food miles are minimal. yorkshiresmokehouse.co.uk H Weatherhead & Sons The renowned butchers in Pateley Bridge is a family run business with its own slaughterhouse and quality homemade products. weatherheadbutchers.co.uk Kendall & Sons Kendall & Sons is another family butchers in Pateley Bridge with top-quality produce and prize-winning speciality pork pies. kendallsfarmbutchers.co.uk Dale Stores The place to come for local goodies from the immediate area, Dales Stores stocks a great range of produce, from quality meats supplied by Wetherheads butchers in Pateley Bridge to traditional cheeses like the tasty Wensleydale from The Cheese Board. They also sell their own label AJs product – homemade jams, pickles, biscuits and cakes. Stock up if you’re self-catering or planning a picnic – or grab a sandwich or salad from the ‘to go’ counter. What’s more there’s a post office on site – so you can write home about how great it is! dalestores.co.uk For information on local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nidderdale