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- How to travel from the UK to Spain without flying
There are many ways to travel to Spain from the UK without flying thanks to a variety of train and ferry services from the south of England. On arrival in Spain, there are plenty of options at rail and ferry terminals for onward travel by rail and bus. Spain has one of the most comprehensive high speed networks in the world, so it's easy to travel quickly by train to the major cities. For detailed information to how to take public transport to the UK's ferry ports, see Green Traveller's Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . Photos: Eurostar and Brittany Ferries By Ferry from the UK to Northern Spain Brittany Ferries runs overnight ferry services for foot passengers (and cycle bikes) across the Bay of Biscay from Portsmouth and Plymouth to Santander (it also runs a service from Portsmouth to Bilbao though it is not for foot passengers). These luxurious ferries are like going on a mini-cruise, the dining is first-class, there are lots of facilities to keep the kids happy, extremely comfortable sleeping cabins. And you may see whales and dolphin on the crossing - the Bay of Biscay is one of the best places in Europe to spot these magnificent marine animals. ==== See our Guide to How to travel by public transport to the UK's ferry ports in our section on Travelling as foot passenger from the UK to Europe ==== The stunning beaches along the coastline from Santander. Photo: Christopher Willan Route: Portsmouth or Plymouth to Santander Journey Time: 20-24 hours (can vary by up to an hour due to tidal conditions) Sample timetable: Departs Portsmouth 5pm, arrives Santander the following day at 5.30pm. Departs Plymouth 3.45pm, arrive Santander the following day at 1.15pm. Frequency of Departures: Portsmouth-Santander 2 per week (journey time is 24 hours); Plymouth-Santander 1 per week (this is the fastest service - takes 20 hours) Car hire at Santander: Yes Route: Portsmouth to Bilbao ( not for foot passengers ) Journey Time: 33 hours 30 minutes ( it's a two-night crossing ) Sample timetable: Departs Portsmouth at 9.30pm on Sunday and 7.30pm on Thursday for 2-night crossings arriving at 8am on Tuesday or Saturday morning. Frequency of Departures: Portsmouth-Bilbao 2 sailings each way per week (journey time is 24 hours) Car hire at Bilbao: Yes Ferry tickets provided by Brittany Ferries (NB. To book as a foot passenger , choose the ' on foot' option from the vehicle selection drop-down selection on step 1 of the ferry booking process): On arrival at Santander ferry terminal The ferry terminal lies just one block along Avenida Castilla to Santander's main train station - if you have too much to carry, it's just a minute in a taxi. Santander's train station is well connected to the Spanish rail network, with trains running to major centres in the region and the rest of the country. Santander is the capital of Spain's verdant Cantabria region (part of the wider 'Green Spain' region, along with the Basque Country, Asturias and Galicia), with rugged mountain ranges and a beautiful stretch of coastline including the stunning Picos de Europa mountains. On arrival at Bilbao ferry terminal The port of Bilbao is 10 miles (16km) north-west of Bilbao-Abando railway station, from where there are regular train services to major centres across Spain, including Madrid and Barcelona. There is no public transport direct from/to the ferry terminal, however there is a taxi rank outside the ferry terminal, or you could walk just under 2 miles (3km) to Santurtzi metro station to take the metro to Bilbao-Abando station (Santurtzi is the last stop on Line 2 and goes direct to Bilbao city centre). For ideas of where to stay, great locally run restaurants, heritage attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain . Here's a video we produced about a trip Green Traveller made to Green Spain: Video produced by Green Traveller Productions By Ferry from mainland Spain to the Balearic Islands There are plenty of ferry services that travel out to the Balearic Islands of Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera. The main hub for Mallorca and Menorca is Barcelona, though there are also ferries (in addition to Barcelona) for Ibiza and Formentera that depart from Valencia (3–4 hours by train from Barcelona), Denia (6–7 hours by train from Barcelona). The ferry port in Barcelona is about 2.5 miles (4k) from Barcelona Sants railway station, about 10-12 minutes in a taxi, but you can get there easily by metro in about 15 minutes, taking the L3 (green) line from the metro station at the station (known as 'Sants Estació') to Drassanes from where it's a couple of minutes walk to the ferry's check-in desk. Ferry tickets provided by Direct Ferries, which allows you to search and compare prices for the different operators and routes from the mainland ports in Spain to the Balearics. Barcelona to Mallorca and Menorca There are two ferry operators (Balearia and TransMed) that run an overnight ferry from Barcelona to Palma (Mallorca), which takes 8-9 hours, typically leaving around 10–11pm and arriving about 6am, and from Barcelona to Ciutadella (Menorca) , which typically leaves at around 9.30pm and arrives 6.30am (though do check these timings with the operator) . Balearia also operates a daytime fast ferry (3 hrs 30 mins) from Barcelona to Alcudia in the northerwest of Mallorca, which also stops at Menorca en route; typically it leaves at 4.30pm and arrives in to Alcudia at 8pm. Barcelona, Valencia, Denia to Ibiza and Formentera There are two ferry operators (Baleria and TransMed) that run an overnight ferry from Barcelona , which takes 8-9 hours, typically leaving around 10pm and arriving about 6am (though do check the latest timings with the operator); the ferry from Valencia takes about 5 hours; and the ferry from Denia takes just 2-3 hours. It 's just 30-minutes by interisland ferry from Ibiza to Formentera (the interisland ferry also runs between Mallorca, Mallorca and Ibiza), but there are also direct ferries from the mainland to Formentera, see our guide to: How to travel overland from the UK to Formentera, Spain By ferry from mainland Spain to the Canary Islands There are two ferry routes from mainland Spain to the Canary Islands, from Huelva (near Seville) operated by Baleria, and from Cadiz, operated by Armas Trasmediterránea. The ferries from Huelva run to the Port of Santa Cruz de Tenerife (which takes about 40 hours) and stop at the Port of La Luz in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria en route, while the ferries from Cadiz run to most of the main islands, including Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, La Palma, Lanzarote and Tenerife, taking 28–35 hours. Ferry tickets provided by Direct Ferries, which allows you to search and compare prices for the different operators and routes from the mainland ports in Spain to the Canary Islands. By train from the UK to Spain It is possible to travel by train to Spain in a day from the UK. The quickest way is to go by Eurostar to Paris and then travel on one of the direct services from Paris to the border town of Hendaye (France), which borders will Irun in the Basque Region of Green Spain – the quickest you can do that journey from Paris is 4 hours 53 minutes. For instance, you could take the Eurostar departing London St Pancras at 08.01, arrive Gare du Nord at 11.24, then transfer across Paris to Gare Montparnasse ( see our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris ) to catch the 12.33pm train to Hendaye arriving 4.47pm. From Hendaye, you can take the train across to San Sebastian in just 30 minutes. There are also multiple other connections between France and other areas in Spain, such as between cities such as Lyon and Marseille to Barcelona. From the UK, the fastest route to Barcelona is to take the Eurostar from London St Pancras International Railway Station then change in Paris to catch the high speed train to Figueres, Girona and Barcelona. From Barcelona there are trains throughout Spain, including to Madrid and south to destinations such as Cordoba, Seville and Malaga . En route to Spain, you have to change stations in Paris from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, which can take about half an hour on the Paris RER line (it's only two stops, though we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer - you have about an hour and a half to get the connection, though you could get an earlier train and spent a bit more time in Paris, e.g. have lunch at the wonderful Train Bleu Restaurant in Gare de Lyon). See our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris . At Gare de Lyon, you board a TGV high speed train to 'Barcelona Sants' station. For more detailed information about the journey and arriving in Barcelona, see our guide to How to travel by train from London to Barcelona Stopover hotels to break the journey in Paris If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you're travelling through (and catch the day time train the following day down to Barcelona), there are lots of lovely places to stay in Paris conveniently near both Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon. Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently near these stations: Hotels near Gare du Nord >> Hotels near Gare de Lyon >> For details of travel to Ibiza from Barcelona, see our step-by-step guide: Train and ferry from London to Ibiza, Spain ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of train and ferry routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers. * Data for carbon emissions
- How to take the train to Europe's ski resorts
If you’re looking for a quick win to reduce the carbon footprint of your ski holiday this winter, the good news is that it’s possible to reach many European ski areas by train instead of plane. Daniel Elkan and Katie Bamber provide the low down on the low-carbon route to the slopes. The low carbon route to the slopes. Photo: Swiss Tourism While Eurostar may no longer be running its direct ski train to Bourg St Maurice for access to the popular Tarentaise valley resorts, in its place is an indirect service that involves simply a platform change at Lille Europe. And plenty more ski resorts can be accessed by taking regular scheduled crosschannel services and changing in Paris for high-speed TGV connections. Or, after travelling to Brussels or Paris, you can board a NightJet sleeper train bound for destinations in Austria. Some resorts in France and Italy can be accessed by sleeper-trains too, with more overnight services planned over the coming years. If you travel to the Alps on the Friday overnight (and back on the Saturday night), you can fit in two extra days’ skiing on the relatively quieter Saturday changeover days without having to pay for the extra nights’ accommodation. When you arrive on the Saturday morning, once you’ve wiped the sleep from your eyes, you can hit the slopes before lunch; and on the final Saturday, the departing train isn’t until the evening so you can fit in a full days’ skiing. With a generous baggage allowance and free ski carriage, the train is a great lowcarbon way to travel to the slopes. Click to view a PDF of the full rail-ski map And then there’s the scenery. You’ll be swapping airport queues and baggage reclaim for café bar carriages and comfortable seats to enjoy views of the countryside and mountain vistas – it’s a surefire way to make the journey part of the holiday. Eurostar's Snow Train from Lille to the French Alps. Photo: Eurostar Five resorts reachable by train in Europe ANZÈRE, SWITZERLAND The French-speaking Swiss canton of Valais is frequently bathed in sunshine and has panoramic views, ranging from the Mont Blanc massif to the Bietschhorn. Here, you’ll find the south-facing Anzère, a relatively modern mountain-village with a family-friendly feel. There are 13 ski lifts giving access to 58km of pistes, which stay uncrowded and peaceful. STAY: A clever pellet-fired heating system heats 80% of Anzere’s accommodation, including the three-star apart-hotel Hotel Eden ( edenresort.ch ). This friendly property gets five-star reviews and has its own Escape Room activity to try, too. EAT La Boîte à Fromage ( restaurantlaposte.ch/ le-boite-a-fromage) is a cave-like restaurant serving Swiss-cheese specialities produced by herds that graze the local slopes. The cheeses for the fondues, for example, are from cows on the Serin mountain pasture and Ayent dairy, and it’s all accompanied by Valais wines. DO: With the famous panorama of Anzère as a backdrop, use axes to climb the unpredictable face of the icefall in the resort’s Icepark. There’s expert guidance from experienced climbers and 12 different routes to try. GET THERE BY TRAIN: Depart London St Pancras on Saturday on the 09:31 Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord. Change to Paris Gare de Lyon and take the 14:18 TGV, changing at Lausanne to arrive at Sion at 19:24. From there it’s 20 minutes by bus or taxi. Family board TER near Chamonix. Photo: Daniel Elkan LES GETS, FRANCE Les Gets is a family favourite resort that shares a lift pass with neighbouring Morzine, both part of the vast 650km Portes du Soleil ski area that straddles the French-Swiss border. Loved for its wide, cruisey pistes, Les Gets has slopes for every skier and big mountain views all round. The village is pretty with a pleasant mix of restaurants and bars. The resort has a new illuminated night walk, Alta Lumina ( Altalumina.com ), that takes you on an immersive adventure through the forest. STAY Cosy Hotel Marmotte (hotel-marmotte. com) at the foot of the slopes has an Edelweiss label, awarded for exemplary management of energy, water, waste and noise. EAT Restaurant La Piste Noire (restaurantlapistenoire. com) has reinvented itself by moving from French classic bistro food to 100% vegetarian cuisine, with dishes such as butternut ravioli and homemade lemon linguini. DO In the company of their Nordic dogs, Justine and Didier organise excursions suitable for anyone keen to be at one with both nature and canine company ( lapattenordic.fr ). GET THERE BY TRAIN Depart London St Pancras on the 09.31 Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord; change to Paris Gare de Lyon and take the 12.14 TGV to Bellegarde, then the 17.15 TER train to Cluses, arriving at 18.52. From there it’s 40 minutes by bus or taxi. Making the journey part of the holiday en route to the slopes. Photo: Eurostar LA PLAGNE, FRANCE Made up of no less than 11 villages, La Plagne is a resort with huge appeal. The ski area is shared with neighbouring Les Arcs and Peisey- Vallandry, giving 425km of slopes to explore, where even beginners can enjoy gentlebut- high-altitude blue runs. For advanced powder hounds, there’s excellent off-piste tree skiing, too. Sustainable initiatives include a partnership between recycling centre Antropia and up-cycled clothing specialists One Tree, repurposing winter jackets previously used by mountain professionals for skiers to use again ( onetreeatatime.fr ). STAY Residence W2050 (w2050-belleplagne. com) in Belle Plagne is a new high-end accommodation renovated from a former hotel, using locally sourced materials with a focus on insulation to minimise heat loss. EAT Created by brother and sister Damien and Soizic, Joya in La Plagne Centre (joyalaplagne. com) specialises in sourcing products from as close to home as possible, including Tomme, Beaufort and Raclette cheese created on the slopes of neighbouring Peisey-Vallandry and honey from Aime la Plagne beekeeper Hugo Pellicier DO At La Plagne’s Olympic bobsleigh track, holidaymakers can try piloting a bobsleigh. This thrilling experience lasts a full day and includes instruction from French former bobsleigh champions. GET THERE BY TRAIN Depart London St Pancras at 09:01 on the new Eurostar Snow service, changing at Lille Europe to arrive at Aime la Plagne at 17:58. From there the transfer takes 20-40 minutes by bus or taxi. Les Menuires, France. Photo: les3vallees/David Andre LES MENUIRES, FRANCE Celebrating its 60th anniversary this winter, Les Menuires boasts high-altitude ski-in/ski-out accommodation and a convenient starting point for exploring the 600km Three Valleys ski area. With 85% of local slopes above 1,800 metres, it’s a snowsure bet and has gained a reputation as an affordable resort. The entire snow grooming fleet now runs on HVO synthetic fuel – gleaned from 100% renewable sources, it’s palm-oil free and is manufactured from waste fats and used vegetable oils. STAY Stylish hostel Ho36 ( ho36.com ), in Les Menuires, has ski-in/ski-out access and is well rated for its eco-friendly approach to mountain accommodation. EAT La Trantsa in neighbouring Saint Martin de Belleville serves home-produced tomme and ricotta cheeses from its farm. DO Freedive in the 1ºC water under the ice of Lac du Lou (you can even do it at night by headtorch), then head inside the mountain refuge for a warming dinner. GET THERE BY TRAIN Depart London St Pancras at 09.01 on the new Eurostar Snow service, changing at Lille Europe to arrive at Moutiers at 17.30. From there it’s 25 minutes by bus or taxi. ALPBACH, AUSTRIA Some years ago, postcard-pretty Alpbach was voted the most beautiful village in Austria in a TV poll. Arrive here and it’s obvious why: charming, rustic, wooden chalets line the streets, and the effect is stunning. There’s a laid-back vibe with wintersports aficionados loyal to an authentic village that has never forgotten its farming roots. The sizeable 145km of ski terrain is ideal for intermediates looking for fun on the mountain fuelled by hearty lunches. In the evenings, the town has some cute, friendly bars and plenty of Tyrolean eateries. STAY Alpbach has 12 eco-certified places to stay. One of these is the four-star Superior Hotel Der Böglerhof ( boeglerhof.at ), whose outdoor pool has magnificent mountainside views and an infrared cabin, Finnish sauna, bio sauna and steam bath. EAT Hotel Post ( post-alpbach.at ) has a menu that focusses on fresh products from the region, including butter, eggs, cheese and bread, in recipes that have been loved and eaten in Alpbach for generations, and now given an innovative twist. DO Alpbach has several tantalising toboggan runs. The longest leads from the Reither Kogel via the Panorama Trail to Reith im Alpbachtal, a distance of 6.9km. GET THERE BY TRAIN Take the 15.04 Eurostar to Brussels- Midi, arriving 18.05, then the 18.25 ICE to Cologne, arriving 20.15. Then take the 21:45 Nightjet sleeper train to Jenbach arriving 08:53. From there it’s 20 minutes by bus or taxi. ===== For more information on taking the train to the slopes, see snowcarbon.co.uk
- Train from London to Lausanne, Switzerland
Green Traveller's Guide to taking the train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Lausanne, Switzerland. Lausanne's famous wooden bridge. Photo: Greentraveller It is possible to travel by train from London to Lausanne in about 8.5 hours if you take the Eurostar from London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord then change to Paris Gare de Lyon and catch the train to Lausanne. Lausanne is the fourth largest city in Switzerland, famous for its location on Lake Geneva and for being the home of the International Olympic Committee's headquarters. Train routes from London connecting with TGV Lyria rail services in Switzerland: Map courtesy of Eurostar Flight-free travel from London to Lausanne: Journey Time: about 8.5 hours Sample timetable: Depart London 7.12am, arrive Lausanne 3.40pm Changes: 1 Transfer: Paris Gare du Nord to Paris Gare de Lyon Frequency of Departures: 5/day Carbon emissions: 4.51 kg (flight would be 117.81kg)* Tickets provided by Trainline, which allows you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. It does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. How to book train tickets as part of a package with accommodation If you want someone to book the whole journey for you or combine it with staying in hotels en route, get in touch with the travel agent Byway through its page for booking enquiries . What's the journey like? You have to change stations in Paris from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, which can take about half an hour on the Paris RER line (it's only two stops, though we recommend you leave at least 50 minutes for the entire transfer - you have about an hour and a quarter to get the connection). See our guide to How to transfer between train stations across Paris . At Gare de Lyon, you board a Lyria high speed train to Lausanne station. Stopover hotels to break the journey in Paris If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near both Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon. Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently near these stations: Hotels near Gare du Nord Hotels near Gare de Lyon Miss your connection in Paris? Don’t panic. Railteam’s ‘Hop on the Next Available Train’ service means that if you have missed your connection between high speed trains because of a delay on the preceding leg of your journey, you’ll automatically be put on the next available high-speed Lyria train. NB Remember to get your ticket stamped by your Train Manager. Whenever you’re connecting, always remember to validate your onward train ticket at the machine on the platform before departing (these are often coloured yellow). For more overland routes to Switzerland, see our Flight-Free Train/Ferry Journey Planner On arrival at Lausanne station There are lots of hotels near to to Lausanne train station, see below: Hotels near Lausanne station Gute Reise! * Data for carbon emissions
- Green Traveller's Guide to Avignon
As part of our series of Green Traveller's Guides to European cities, here we focus on Avignon, the gateway to Provence in the South of France. Ancient cobbles, gothic church spires, arched bridges sweeping over the Rhône, medieval ramparts (still intact) encircling the old city: it’s easy to see why people flock to Avignon. But alongside all this historical splendour – of the Palace of the Popes and the Place d l’Horloge – Avignon is a modern, living, breathing city, with a vibrant theatre scene (the city is transformed during July’s annual Theatre Festival), an extraordinary gastronomic legacy, and a relaxed pace of life befitting a city which basks in sunshine 300 days a year. Quietly respectful of its historical past, Avignon is also making great efforts to plant itself firmly on the environmentally-conscious map, catapulting this UNESCO world heritage site into a new, greener era. The city’s eco-conscious attitude has even influenced the city’s main annual attraction, the Avignon Theatre Festival: ‘Acting for the Environment’ is an environmentally-aware campaign designed to minimise the festival’s impact by reducing energy consumption and waste, providing electric shuttle services, and promoting responsible tourism. This guide aims to highlight some of the city's greenest places to stay in Avignon, including a fabulous hotel with cookery school and Michelin-starred chef, a lively hostel serving great regional wines in the downstairs bar, and a welcoming B&B, just a stone's throw from the train station. We've also included some recommendations for places to eat, from laid-back cafés where you can curl up with a book and a cuppa and a generous slab of cake on the side, to a bright and fun restaurant specialising in cheese: try the goat’s cheese herb gratin for starter, or the roasted duck with Manchego sauce for afters. There are also some fabulous wine cellars to explore. Plus we've included a sprinkling of local attractions in Avignon, from markets housed in the famous Les Halles where you can pick up wonderful local produce, to fascinating museums and lovely green spaces. We've also selected a handful of activities in Avignon such as walking tours, wine tasting, and festivals and events. Practicalities Getting to Avignon: See our guide to How to travel by train from London to Avignon (year round) and How to travel by direct train (summer only) to Avignon Getting around Avignon by public transport Avignon is a relatively small city so it’s easy to get around. If you arrive at the SNCF Avignon Centre station on Boulevard Saint-Roch, which is just outside the city’s medieval walls, so you can walk in just a few minutes from the train’s arrival platform right into the heart of the city. If you’re travelling down on the high-speed TGV from Paris or Lille, you’ll arrive at the TGV Avignon station, which is a few miles out of town, but there is a shuttle bus that takes about 15 minutes to get into the Avignon town centre and costs just a couple of Euros. The main bus station is a few minutes walk from Avignon Centre station and has about 60 services that link with the surrounding towns. You can also pick up a bike from one of 17 of the city’s self-service bike hire scheme ‘Vélopop’ - they're free for the first half hour, then it costs a Euro for every hour. You can also hire bikes at Provence Bikes (website is in French only) on Boulevard St Roch (tel. +33 (0) 490 279 261) or Day Tour . You can also pre-order to pick up bikes at the TGV Avignon station (3km outside of the town) from Holiday Bikes (tel +33 0810 808 609). Onward Travel: Avignon is the gateway to Provence: from Avignon TGV station, high speed trains run south to Aix en Provence, Marseille, Toulon, St Raphael (for St Tropez), Cannes, Antibes, Monaco-Monte Carlo, and Nice. Where to eat in Avignon 100% organic, 100% homemade, 100% chic, Theias is part restaurant part deli part tea rooms and is worth a visit at any time of day: stop by for morning brunch, a refreshing afternoon cup of tea (there are 30 different types to chose from) and a slab of cake, or enjoy a more serious gastronomic experience after dark. The owners are utterly committed to respecting the environment by using only the highest quality, freshest natural ingredients and products whilst providing a relaxed, stylish atmosphere to enjoy it all in. Curl up with a book in an armchair or people watch from the terrace. It’s centrally located, too – just opposite Les Halles. Le Vache a Carreaux - as the cow in the name would imply - is a small, characterful restaurant has a menu dedicated to cheese. Hidden in a cellar down a cobbled backstreet it’s not an obvious address, but it’s close to the centre of everything, and inside it’s bright and fun, with attentive staff and a lively atmosphere at all times of the day. Try the goat’s cheese herb gratin for starter, or the roasted duck with Manchego sauce for afters. The staff are understandably proud of their impressive 300-strong wine list and are happy to recommend and talk through some options with you. Eating at Planetalis won’t play on your environmental conscience – a contribution from each purchase goes towards organisations helping to protect the environment. With the motto “Experience the original taste”, it’s no surprise that everything at this restaurant is organic and sustainably sourced from local growers – from ingredients to decor. Food is tasty, uncomplicated and good value – try the Planetalis burger with crispy pancetta, Fontina cheese and truffle aioli, or a classic Caesar salad. The atmosphere is unfussy and the décor is as simple as the food: green walls and neat tables and chairs on wooden floors give a fresh, easy feel to the place. Burgers aside, eating here could be one of the healthiest choices you could make during your stay in Avignon! Le Grande Café - you can’t beat the location, at the foot of one of the towers of the Palais des Papes. The restaurant’s former life as a warehouse life has been gently disguised – and to great effect. Huge mirrors hang on exposed brickwork, big open spaces are broken up with low-hanging lights. Come for simple, Provencal-inspired food, with hints of the Mediterranean. A popular choice with sightseers and locals alike, buzzing at all times of the day. Things to do to in Avignon OK, so the 1970s building of Les Halles isn’t the most romantic market venue in Provence, but that matters little – here it’s most definitely all about the food. And there’s plenty of it. Around 40 producers and suppliers set up stall every day, showcasing the best of local, seasonal food and drink – cheese, olives, wine, organic breads, tapenades, meats and seafood, the list is endless. Catch cookery demonstrations from leading local chefs, enjoy a spot of wine-tasting any day of the week, or sample tasty morsels and soak up the atmosphere. A lively place, not to be missed. For a slice of museum culture, head to the Museum Angladon, a beautiful townhouse which is home to a collection of works by some major artists from the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries, including Van Gogh, Picasso and Cezanne. Both the collection and the house were donated to the public by the owners, Jean and Paulette Angladon-Dubrujeaud, who inherited the collection from Jacques Doucet (1853-1929), the well known collector and supporter of the arts. It’s a small, intimate setting, with some interesting sketches that give you a real insight into the lives of the artists. Stock up on local goodies from the markets and head to one of the city’s loveliest green spaces: Ile de Barthelasse is Avignon’s ‘green lung’, a little piece of Provence countryside just a stone’s throw from the busy city centre. Jump on a boat (free) which ferries people to the island (5 mins) – it’s the perfect place to while away an afternoon with a blanket and picnic hamper. If you’re feeling energetic follow the towpath along the banks of the island for some spectacular views of the Palace of the Popes and the Pont Saint-Benezet (of Sur le Pont, d’Avignon fame), explore the myriad pathways that crisscross the island by bike, or go horse riding and soak it all up from the saddle. Visiting a venue dedicated to celebrating the humble vegetable might not seem an obvious thing to do when visiting an historical city, but Epicurium – Europe’s first fruit and vegetable museum – is a fascinating, educational and fun way to spend an afternoon. There are impressive vegetable gardens, nature trails through the orchards, and exhibits demonstrating man’s use of fruits and vegetables in agriculture, food and industry, promoting values such as health, education and respect for the environment. There are year-round cookery classes and gardening workshops, too. What better way to round off a tour of the Palace of the Popes than by enjoying a local tipple in the Pope’s wine cellar. There’s a variety of different options available to you, from wine-tasting for novices, to wine and chocolate tastings for the more adventurous. The friendly, helpful staff will help you get to know 55 different wines from the region. Get to know the local way of life in Avignon on a Daily Life walking tour , which takes in some of the shops, cafés, bakeries, and lesser-known monuments and parks that you won't find on the tourist maps. It’s a great way to get away from the swarms of sightseers and chat with some of the locals whilst you sip a coffee, jostle for space in the queue for baguettes, or stroll around the park. If you cherish the simple things in life, this is an excellent way to see the real Avignon. If you're in Avignon in July, don't miss being part of ‘ Festival Off ’, Avignon’s legendary Avignon Theatre Festival’s lesser-known sister event. Hundreds of theatre and circus troupes, performing artists and dancers, both amateur and professional, (with some very famous names amongst them), take over the centre’s cafes, chapels, pavements and courtyards in a colourful explosion of theatre, music and dance, with thousands of performances - many impromptu - across the city centre. And finally... get your hands dirty and enrol on a cookery course against the backdrop of Avignon’s bustling food market Les Halles. Local chef Julian Charvet has spent the past four years working on Concept Chef which aims to combine traditional local produce with exciting new recipes. The course kicks off with a ‘Discovery Workshop” exploring the market food stalls picking up ingredients, then it’s back to the Concept Chef HQ to concoct recipes, and prepare and taste your dishes under the guidance of Julian. Morning courses are also available for children. Where to stay in Avignon Just a stone’s throw from the train station is La Violette - a lovely homely B&B. Rooms (one with balcony) have pastel-coloured walls, pretty floor tiles, antique lace, and family pieces dotted around. Expect a warm welcome from Isabelle and family – they are a wealth of information on the surrounding area and will happily help you plan your itinerary. Isabelle will leave breakfast for you outside your door, too (there’s space for you to prepare your own if you prefer). A comfortable, relaxing place to stay, and only 5 minutes walk from Avignon’s buzzing centre. Address: 26 avenue de la Violette; +33 (0)4 90 86 12 83; www.avignonlaviolettebb.fr Escape the heat and bustle of city life amid fountains, hammocks and century-old plane trees at Lumani - a little pocket of peace in the centre of medieval Avignon. Owners Elisabeth and Jean have stamped their creativity – beautifully – all over the place: there are piles of art and architecture books and walls covered in art, and musicians will love the soundproofed workshop. Rooms are simply furnished, breakfasts are organic – there’s even a working organic mill on site. Expect to pay up to €170 during high season; not the cheapest B&B in town but worth every cent. Address: 37 rue du Rempart St. Lazare; +33 (0)4 90 82 94 11; www.avignon-lumani.com . La Mirande is for serious foodies: there’s the Michelin-starred chef (whose culinary delights mix tradition with an environmental conscience), an award-winning cookery school, tea rooms serving organic pastries, and gastronomy events for guests: one ‘theatre-inspired’ evening combines cookery demonstrations, storytelling and a game of petanque! The hotel, at the foot of the Palace of the Popes, is one of Avignon’s most distinguished, so expect luxury and top class service at every turn. Spacious rooms have beautiful wallpaper, the finest linen, antique pieces, piles of fluffy towels, heavenly smellies in glistening bathrooms. It's quite pricey, but a great choice if you want to splash out. Address: 4 Place de l’Amirande; +33 (0)4 90 14 20 20; www.la-mirande.fr. All images provided by Avignon Tourisme.
- Direct (Summer Only) Train from London to Marseille, France
Green Traveller's Guide to taking the direct train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Marseille, France. For more information about where to stay in Marseille, as well as tips on local restaurants, markets, museums and how to get around the city by bike and public transport, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Marseille . Editor's Note: This service has been put on hold since the pandemic. For year-round services to Marseille via Lille, see our guide to how to take the train from London to Marseille . Please note this direct train is a Summer Service only (22 May-7 September 2020) Journey Time: 6 hours 26 minutes Sample timetable: Only departure is from London at 7.19am, arriving Marseille at 2.45pm Changes: None, it is a direct train Frequency of Departures: 3-4 times per week Carbon emissions: 15 kg (flight would be 311.1kg)* Car hire at Marseille St Charles station: Yes What's the journey like? It's a direct train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Marseille St Charles station in the heart of the city. On board Eurostar, there’s a bar-buffet carriage that sells a range of hot and cold, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, including champagne, as well as snacks and wholesome, hearty dishes. For those with standard premier tickets, light refreshments are served at your table, including a fresh, light, healthy meal, tea, coffee and soft drinks, and a glass of wine or beer. It’s about 30 mins from London to the Channel Tunnel, then, after about 20 minutes, you emerge for the onward journey whizzing down through the beautiful countryside of France, passing picturesque French villages and along the Rhône Valley to Marseille (it stops briefly at Avignon to let passengers off). This direct service is a fast and efficient way to travel from London to Marseille in the summer. On arrival at Marseille St Charles station Bienvenue à Marseille! A city without too many airs, Marseille has a life and energy that more manicured destinations lack. The spectacular old port at its centre is surrounded by pavement cafes, restaurants and bars, and overlooked by an iconic hilltop church. Detour into the old quarter of Le Panier or the hippyish Cours Julien and you’ll find atmospheric architecture, bustling markets and some of the country’s most down-to-earth inhabitants. There are lots of hotels near to the station, see: Hotels near Marseille St Charles train station . Various eco-districts are also in development across the city, with renewable energy, greywater recycling schemes, tree planting projects and bike paths part of the plans. The most high profile of these lies within the Euroméditerranée district; a 480-hectare urban renewal project between the commercial harbour, the Vieux Port (Old Port) and the TGV station. The city is gradually moving towards a more sustainable future. With an average of 300 days of sunshine a year, many public buildings in the city are being equipped with solar panels; it's said there are more roofs here than in any other city in France. Getting around Marseille Marseille has an excellent public transport network. From Marseille Saint Charles train station there are trams, metro and buses that take you around the city centre and to the main harbour and port, see: Marseille public transport timetables and routes (French only). Marseille’s handy City Pass is an allin package including free entry to many of the city's museums, a boat trip to the Château d'If, a trip on the Petit Train, reductions on certain other excursions, and unlimited travel on the buses, metro and trams. It is valid for one (€22) or two (€29) days. See Marseille Tourism for more information. From outside the station, you can pick up a bike from the city’s bike hire scheme Le Vélo . Book a direct (summer only) train ticket to Marseille >> ( tickets provided by Eurostar - bookings available 280 days before date of travel) Bon Voyage! See our Flight-Free Rail and Ferry Journey Planner * Data for carbon emissions
- Direct (Summer Only) Train from London to Avignon, France
Green Traveller's Guide to taking the direct train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Avignon, France. Editor's Note: This service has been put on hold since the pandemic. For year-round services to Avignon via Lille, see our guide to how to take the train from London to Avignon . Please note this direct train is a Summer Service only (from 22 May-7 September 2020) Journey Time: 5 hours 49 minutes Sample timetable: Only departure is from London at 7.19am, arriving Avignon at 2.08pm Changes: None, it is a direct train Frequency of Departures: 3-4 times per week Carbon emissions: 13 kg (flight would be 295.5kg)* Bike hire at Avignon TGV station: No, but there is a city bike hire scheme in the city centre Tickets provided by Trainline: What's the journey like? It's a direct train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Avignon TGV station just outside the city. On board Eurostar, there’s a bar-buffet carriage that sells a range of hot and cold, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, including champagne, as well as snacks and wholesome, hearty dishes. For those with standard premier tickets, light refreshments are served at your table, including a fresh, light, healthy meal, tea, coffee and soft drinks, and a glass of wine or beer. It’s about 30 mins from London to the Channel Tunnel, then, after about 20 minutes, you emerge for the onward journey whizzing down through the beautiful countryside of France, passing picturesque French villages and along the Rhône Valley to Avignon (the train continues to Marseille). This direct service is a fast and efficient way to travel from London to Avignon in the summer. Here's a short video we filmed to show what it's like to travel by train to Avignon: Shuttle bus from TGV Avignon to the centre of Avignon. Photo: Richard Hammond On arrival at Avignon TGV station Bienvenue à Avignon! The TGV direct train from London arrives at Avignon TGV, which is a few miles outside the town . Thankfully, the station is linked to the city centre by the ‘TGV Navette’ bus (right) (it's free for Eurostar ticket holders). This drops you off in front of the city’s downtown station, Avignon-Centre. From here, all points central are walkable, but it is a hub for transport around the city and the sights of the surrounding area. Avignon is the gateway to Provence - it's an atmospheric mediaeval city of honey-coloured buildings and winding streets, crowned by the dramatic Papal Palace. Its compact centre nestles between intact city walls, and the famous bridge still juts halfway out into the Rhône. This is the dream of France – quiet squares to relax in a café, delicious provençal cuisine, fine local wines; and many a place to buy a baguette and wander around the ancient streets – with all the joys of Provence on the doorstep. For more information about Avignon, including information on some great places to eat, hotels and things to do, see Green Traveller's Guide to Avignon . Getting around Avignon The compact centre of Avignon lies within its ancient city walls, and is easily walkable, with only limited traffic. If you do need or want to take a longer journey, or to one of the outlying towns, villages, and attractions, there is a good local bus network and a new tram system opened in 2019. Transport in Avignon is operated by ORIZO, their website is in French only, however it does feature detailed information about the Avignon transport network . Tickets for a single journey cost 1,30€ (valid for one hour), with a ‘carnet’ of ten tickets for 10,50€ and a day pass at 4€. The Avignon area boasts 110km of segregated cycle paths – impressive for the city’s small size – and there is also a self-service bike sharing scheme called Vélopop operating across Avignon. You can take a bike from one docking station and return it to another when you reach your destination – for only 1€ per day (0,50€ for each half-hour of usage); here's a useful map of vélopop stations . You can also hire bikes at Provence Bikes on Boulevard St Roch or pre-order to pick up bikes at the TGV Avignon station (3km outside of the town) from Holiday Bikes. For more information about where to stay in Avignon, restaurants and things to do, see ou: Green Traveller's Guide to Avignon Bon Voyage! See more overland routes to France in our Flight-Free Rail and Ferry Journey Planner * Data for carbon emissions
- Train from London to Hamburg, Germany
Green Traveller's Guide to taking the train from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Hamburg, Germany. Winter scene. Photo: Wix Media Journey Time: from 8 hours 37 mins Sample timetable: Depart London 9.01am, arrive Hamburg 7.14pm Changes: 2 Transfer: Quick same-station change of platform within Brussels Midi station and another at Cologne Hbf railway station Frequency of Departures: 11/day Carbon emissions: 23.1kg (flight would be 130.5kg)* Train tickets provided by Trainline: Tickets provided by Trainline, which allows you to buy tickets for multiple train operators in multiple European countries. It does charge a small booking fee, but offers several useful facilities, such as a free email alert service to let you know as soon as bookings open for your chosen route so you can snap up the cheapest tickets when they become available. How to book train tickets as part of a package with accommodation If you want someone to book the whole journey for you or combine it with staying in hotels en route, get in touch with the travel agent Byway through its page for booking enquiries . What's the journey like? Take the Eurostar to Brussels Midi station where there's an easy same-station platform change to board the high-speed Thalys or ICE trains to Cologne. Keep an eye out on the platform at Brussels for the handy guide to the layout of incoming trains, which shows you where your carriage will arrive into the station so you can make your way to the correct part of the platform before the train arrives. On arrival at Cologne, you then have to change trains to take the Intercity train to Hamburg (a journey of about 4 hours). Stopover hotels to break the journey in Brussels and Cologne If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Brussels and/or Cologne while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay near Brussels Midi and Cologne Hbf railway stations (we've stayed at Hostel Koln , which is about a 20-minute walk from the railway station). Here are some examples of hotels that are conveniently nearby: Hotels near Brussels Midi and Hotels near Cologne Hbf Hostel Kohn, one of several eco-friendly places to stay if you want to stop off in Cologne en route to Hamburg Miss your connection? Don’t panic. Railteam’s ‘Hop on the Next Available Train’ service means that if you have missed your connection because of a delay on the preceding leg of your journey, you’ll automatically be put on the next available high-speed train. NB Remember to get your ticket stamped by your Train Manager. For more overland train routes to Germany, see our Flight-Free Train & Ferry Journey Planner On arrival Willkommen in Hamburg! By the banks of the River Elbe in northern Germany, Hamburg is a waterfront city with lots of great cafes, restaurants, shops, theatres, museums, galleries, and a vibrant nightlife scene. There are lots of hotels near the train station, see below: Hotels near Hamburg's train station We sent writer Anna Shepard by train to Hamburg, here's what she had to say: "Before setting off for a weekend in Hamburg, I told my German neighbours where I was headed. “There are lots of parks and expensive cafes, but it's not as fun as Berlin," they told me. "Why don’t you go there?” Everyone knows you can have a good time in the country's eclectic capital, but I wanted something different. And my interest was piqued by Hamburg's reputation as Germany’s greenest city, with fantastic public transport, bike-loving citizens and fairtrade boutiques." Read her full review: Hamburg, Germany's greenest city? Gute Reise! * Data for carbon emissions
- How to travel from the UK to The Netherlands without flying
There are many ways to travel overland from the UK to The Netherlands without flying; by taking the ferry (either in a car or as a foot passenger), by coach or by Eurostar, or, by car through the Eurotunnel. One of the most popular routes is the shortest ferry journey, which goes from Harwich (on the east coast of England) to the Hook of Holland (on the west coast of The Netherlands) from where there is a seamless connection with rail services to Rotterdam, Amsterdam and the rest of the country. There are also longer ferry services across the North Sea from Newcastle and Hull, or if you want to go by train, the Eurostar has a direct service from London St Pancras station to Amsterdam in under 4 hours. Click on the links below to the go directly to the relevant section on this page: Ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland Ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam Ferry from Hull to Rotterdam Eurostar from London to Amsterdam Coach from the UK to The Netherlands Car via The Channel Tunnel to The Netherlands Foot passengers: For detailed information to how to take public transport to ferry ports, see our Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . Images: Stenaline Peter Mild, DFDS room and restaurant, ferry from Newcastle to Amsterdam, Flixbus coach service, Eurostar to Amsterdam By ferry from Harwich to Hook of Holland, The Netherlands The shortest ferry route across the North Sea from the UK is from Harwich in Essex with Stena Line to The Hook of Holland (known as ‘Hoek van Holland’). From Scotland it takes from at least 6.5 hours to reach Harwich by train via London, or 14 hours by bus, the cheapest option. You can then choose to go across the North Sea either during the day or overnight. Journey time: it is a 7-8 hour crossing (day time or overnight) Here are approximate journey times not including an overnight stay for the morning ferry: Timings: departs Harwich at 9am, arrives Hook of Holland at 17.15; overnight service departs Harwich at 23:00, arrives Hook of Holland at 08:00. Facilities: restaurants and bars, a cinema and shops Sleeper Cabins: on the overnight ferry you can choose from a range of cabins, from a single inside cabin with television and ensuite bathroom to cabins for two, three, four of five people, including the Comfort Class cabins with sea view and complimentary minibar. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers with bicycles pay an extra fee of £5 for adults and £2.50 for children and it costs £20 to bring your dog, which must travel in a kennel. Ferry sailing times and journey times can change so check the website for the latest times. From Newcastle to Amsterdam by Ferry DFDS runs an overnight service for foot passengers from Newcastle to Amsterdam, departing at 17.00 Journey time: 15.5 hours (overnight) Timings: Departs Newcastle 17:00, arrives Amsterdam 9.45am. If you're travelling by train, there's a transfer bus from Newcastle railway station to the International Ferry Terminal. These DFDS buses operate from Berwick Street opposite Newcastle Central Station to the ferry terminal at times to coincide with its sailings. Bus tickets must be bought in advance online or over the phone. Facilities on board the ferry: bars, restaurants, casino, cinema and kids club Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-5 people, and, unlike most ferry operators that insist dogs are kept in cars or kennels, there are cabins suitable for up to two dogs to travel alongside their owners. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a charge of £5 each way, and those without wheels can hop onto a coach on arrival at the port of Ijmuiden to travel the 25 miles into central Amsterdam. Cruise: DFDS offers a ‘mini cruise’ option, which includes breaks in Amsterdam from five hours to two nights and include coach transfers at either end. From Amsterdam it’s easy to connect by rail to cities and regions across the Netherlands, as well as onto France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and beyond. By ferry from Hull to Rotterdam South of Newcastle, P&O Ferries runs an overnight ferry between Hull and Rotterdam. Journey time: 12 hours (overnight), plus the minimum 90-minute check-in for the ferry. On arrival at Hull station by train, there’s a bus that goes to the port from the adjoining interchange station. Number 70 operates from Paragon Interchange to the ferry terminal at 5pm and takes 15 minutes, but for more flexibility, a taxi is a good bet. Timings: Hull to Rotterdam departs 20:30 and arrives Rotterdam at 8:15 (9:00 at weekends) Facilities: Restaurants, bars, cinemas, a casino and kids play area. Sleeper Cabins: options range from a standard cabin, with a toilet and shower room, to a sea view cabin or a club cabin with extra space and a television - sleeping between two and five people per cabin. Luggage: There’s no limit on luggage, and you can travel with a pet and a bicycle. Pets are charged at £22 each way and must travel in a kennel. Bicycles are carried free of charge but only one is allowed per foot passenger booking, so a group travelling with multiple bikes need to make a separate booking per bike. Cruise: You can book the ferry solely as transport, but for some, it’s the holiday in itself - a mini cruise out of Hull with P&O offers two nights on a ferry to and from Rotterdam with a day trip (which can be extended to an extra night) to explore the city between sailings. Themed mini breaks take this up a notch with entertainment such as live music or darts competitions onboard. Many passengers use Rotterdam as a gateway to Brussels, Antwerp or Paris but from either point, it is straight-forward to connect by rail to other destinations in the Netherlands and Belgium as well as Germany, Luxembourg and France. Train from the UK to The Netherlands Eurostar runs a direct services from London St Pancras to Rotterdam (3 hours 13 mins) and Amsterdam (3 hours 52 mins). Do check your ticket to find out the latest recommended time to arrive before your train departs - it can vary quite a lot, from 45 minutes (for Eurostar Premier) to up to 90 mins (for Eurostar Standard). On board Eurostar, there’s a bar-buffet carriage that sells a range of hot and cold, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, including champagne, as well as snacks and wholesome, hearty dishes. For those with standard premier tickets, light refreshments are served at your table, including a fresh, light, healthy meal, tea, coffee and soft drinks, and a glass of wine or beer. It’s about 30 mins from London to the Channel Tunnel, then, after about 20 minutes in the tunnel, you emerge for the quick onward journey through the beautiful countryside of northern France and Belgium, on to Rotterdam and then Amsterdam. Eurostar's direct service from London to Amsterdam is less than 4 hours. Photo: Eurostar There are a myriad reasons to visit Amsterdam: this compact capital packs a big punch when it comes to history, art, architecture, and contemporary chic. A relaxed, liberal vibe pervades and there is no shortage of cosy cafés, stylish boutiques, and appetising restaurants in which to enjoy all the city has to offer. Whether you’ve come to discover the latest in design, to visit some of the world’s great art collections, to indulge in some of the city’s less salubrious pleasures, or just to stroll and admire the traditional houses reflected in Amsterdam’s many canals – there’s something for just about everyone at any budget. For more information on Amsterdam, including hotels, restaurants and markets selling fresh local produce, museums and other attractions , see our Green Traveller's Guide to Amsterdam : Coach from the UK to The Netherlands Travelling by coach can be the cheapest way to travel across to The Netherlands. Flixbus , which now incorporates the Eurolines and Isilines bus companies, runs services across the UK to London Victoria from where you can join its international coach service for several cities in The Netherlands, including Amsterdam , Rotterdam, The Hague, and Utrecht . The coaches have free wifi, charging sockets, toilets, and on some journeys food and drink is sold onboard in addition to the refreshment stops. The cost varies depending on the route, time of year and so on, so check the coach operator’s website for fares. Flixbus also had a trip tracker so you can see where your coach is on its journey. Luggage: You can take a hand luggage bag and medium-sized bag for the hold weighing no more than 20kg. Only folding bicycles are accepted. Facilities: Coaches are air conditioned and have wi-fi and USB charging points as well as toilets and while no refreshments are sold onboard, you can pack your own food and drink for the journey and stops are made at service stations to stock up on supplies. Bikes: Bikes can be taken on the bike rack from €9 per journey. The distinctive green colour of the Flixbus coaches National Express , which runs lots of intercity coach services throughout the UK, has teamed up with BlaBlaCar to run intercity coach services (go to the National Express international website ), including to cities within The Netherlands. The same luggage restrictions apply with one piece of hand luggage and one hold luggage up to 20kg. Car from the UK via LeShuttle to The Netherlands The quickest way to cross the channel in a car is via LeShuttle (formerly known as Eurotunnel Le Shuttle) through the Channel Tunnel (it takes just 35 minutes), from where you can then drive over to the Netherlands via northern France and Belgium. Departures leave from Folkestone and arrive in to Calais in France. There are up to four departures an hour so typically you don't have long to wait before you board the shuttle. At the terminal in Folkestone, there are food outlets and duty free shopping, and even pet exercise areas. Electric car charging for LeShuttle: The terminals at LeShuttle do have charging facilities for electric cars. At Folkestone there are four 210 kw EV Box Modular Engie Ultra Rapid chargers, while at the Calais terminal there eight 210 kW ultra rapid chargers. There are also Tesla Superchargers at the terminal buildings on both sides of the Channel. NB. all electric car chargers are at the main terminal building in Folkestone, not at the Folkestone Flexiplus lounge car park. Cars entering Le Shuttle. Photo: Getlinkgroup/Le Shuttle ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of ferry, train, coach and car routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers. Bon Voyage!
- How to travel from Wales to Europe without flying
There are lots of ways to travel from Wales to Europe without flying - by train, coach, ferry (in a car or as a foot passenger) or a combination of all three. By and large, for journeys to France by ferry, it’s quickest to travel overland from Wales to the south coast of England to catch ferries across the English Channel, unless you live close to Holyhead in North Wales - where it’s possible to take the Holyhead-Dublin ferry then take a ferry to Cherbourg, but with a journey time of at least 22 hours, it’s still often easier to head to Poole, Portsmouth, Plymouth, Newhaven or even Dover. From these south coast ports, Europe is your oyster. You can catch a ferry with Brittany Ferries from Poole to Cherbourg and Plymouth to Roscoff or Santander, but the greatest choice of destinations is from Portsmouth, with services to Le Harve, Caen, Cherbourg, St Malo, Bilbao and Santander. Newhaven is connected to Dieppe with DFDS, but Dover has the greatest choice of sailings to France with 50 departures a day in peak season across the Channel. For Calais you can choose P&O Ferries or sail with DFDS, which also runs a route to Dunkirk. Getting to the south coast ferry ports by public transport is cheapest by coach, with journeys from Cardiff, for example, taking between 5.5 and 7.5 hours to reach the south coast ports. The same journeys by train take 3.5 to 5.5 hours, and while Dover is the furthest away it can take under 4 hours to reach because of the high speed rail line from London. From mid and north Wales, you need to add at least two hours to these coach and rail times with many services travelling via Birmingham or London to reach the south coast ferry ports. For detailed information to how to take public transport to the UK's ferry ports, see Green Traveller's Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . If you want to get to the Netherlands from Wales without flying, the Harwich-Amsterdam ferry is an option but it’s much quicker to take the Eurostar train via London or the Dover-Calais car ferry and drive. If you’d rather go by road or rail, coaches and trains heading to the continent both use the Channel Tunnel, so you have to factor in the time it takes to travel east to London. If you take the train, once on the other side of the tunnel, you’re then connected to the European high-speed rail network, which can whizz you to many European capitals and beyond within hours. Our team has tried and tested many of the routes and so we have tried to summarise all the available options in this post based on our experience. From Wales to Europe by ferry Examples of total journey times including allowance for check-in and transfers where relevant: Cardiff for ferry to Calais: 6.5/7 hours to go by car/train and ferry Cardiff for ferry to Cherbourg: 6.5/7.5 to go by car/train and ferry (from Portsmouth) Cardiff for ferry to Santander: 22/23 hours to go by car/train and ferry (from Plymouth) Swansea for ferries from south of England: add a further 30-60 minutes to the above journey times. You can sail with Brittany Ferries during the day or overnight from Poole, Portsmouth and Plymouth with journeys taking between 3 and 11 hours depending on the route and departure time. The fastest crossings are to Cherbourg from Portsmouth and Poole. The Le Harve offers more budget ‘no-frills’ day and overnight ferries that have limited entertainment onboard and a more simple restaurant. The Caen route has the greatest choice of day or night sails. For access to northern France, Belgium and the Netherlands, there is a vast choice of services from Dover to Calais and Dunkirk with P&O Ferries and DFDS, but only the former accepts foot passengers on these routes. Portsmouth to Le Harve with Brittany Ferries Journey time: day and overnight ferries that take between 5.5 and 10 hours Timings: at least one daily departure, with up to two a day in the peak summer season. Departs Portsmouth 23:00 or 23:30, arrives Le Harve 8:00 or 08:30, with an extra seasonal departures - see website for details Facilities on board: small bar, self service restaurant, cinema, small shop and kids play area Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-4 people (6 berth on some ferries), including cabins suitable for a dog to travel alongside its owner Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: Le Harve is the closest port to Paris by car. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Le Havre >> Portsmouth to Caen with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 6-7 hours Timings: daily departures in the peak summer season. Greatest choice of sailing times at 08:15, 14.45, 22:00 and 22:45 depending on the day and season Facilities on board: bar, restaurants, cinema, entertainment for adults and children, shops and kids play area Sleeper Cabins: take from 2-4 people and some ferries have cabins suitable for a dog to travel alongside its owner Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: from Caen you can connect to the high speed rail network in France via Le Mans or get to Paris by rail in two hours. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Caen >> Portsmouth to Cherbourg with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 3 hours Timings: daily departures in the peak summer season. Leaves Portsmouth at 09:00, arriving in Cherbourg at 13:00, with extra departures depending on the season Facilities on board: lounge with reclining seats, shop, cafe and bar Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: from Cherbourg it is three hours to Paris by train but most people take a car as you can drive onto Normandy in just over an hour. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Cherbourg >> Portsmouth to St Malo with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 7-11 hours Timings: sailings every day during the peak summer season. Leaves Portsmouth at 20:15, arriving in Cherbourg at 08:15, with slight changes to timings depending on the season and some day crossings from St Malo Facilities on board: cinemas, cabaret and live entertainment, restaurants, bar, cafe, shopping Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: one of the boats on the route (Pont Aven) has a pool and leisure area. From St Malo you can drive to Brittany in 1.5 hours and the Dordogne in 6 hours. Otherwise by train you can get to Rennes in under an hour and Paris in three hours. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to St Malo >> Portsmouth to Bilbao with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 24-32 hours Timings: up to three return crossings each week. Leaves Portsmouth at 08:45, 12:00 or 22:30, depending on the day and season. Sundays sailings offer two nights onboard Facilities on board: restaurants, bar, cafe, shopping, pool, spa, cinema, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins including a cabin that accommodates a pet alongside its owners Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: opt for a Tuesday daytime crossing aboard the ‘no-frills’ ships, Baie de Seine or Connemara, for a more affordable crossing. Some crossings offer whale and dolphin spotting with the ‘ ORCA wildlife officers’. As with Santander, the Alsa coach service is best for onward journeys by public transport unless you are heading south by train towards Madrid. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Bilbao >> Portsmouth to Santander with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 24-32 hours Timings: two return crossings each week. Leaves Portsmouth at around 08:45 or 17:00 depending on the day and season Facilities on board: restaurants, bar, cafe, shopping, pool, spa, cinema, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins including a cabin that accommodates a pet alongside its owners Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: opt for a ‘no-frills’ ship for a more affordable crossing, which operates during peak season - check the Brittany Ferries website for details. Some crossings offer whale and dolphin spotting with the ‘ ORCA wildlife officers’. For journeys on from Santander, the rail network works best if you want to head south, with Madrid a four-hour journey away and Leon 3.5 hours, but for east-west journeys, it’s best to travel by car or by bus with Alsa the leading coach company in the region. Book a ferry from Portsmouth to Santander >> Poole to Cherbourg with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 4.5 hours (9 hours for overnight return crossing) Timings: up to two return crossings per day in peak summer season. Leaves Poole at around 08:30 and arrives at 14:00, depending on the day and season Facilities on board: restaurant, bar, cafe, shop, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: from Cherbourg it is three hours to Paris by train but most people take a car as you can drive onto Normandy in just over an hour. Book a ferry from Poole to Cherbourg >> Plymouth to Santander with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 18.5 hours Timings: one sailing per week departing on Sundays at 16:45, arriving in Santander at 12:15, returning Wednesdays Facilities on board: restaurants, bars, cafe, shops, pool, live entertainment, cinemas, spa, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: Brittany Ferries’ mini cruise package offers two nights on board the ship, Pont Aven on the journey out and back, plus two nights in Santander. For journeys on from Santander, the rail network works best if you want to head south, with Madrid a four-hour journey away and Leon 3.5 hours, but for east-west journeys, it’s best to travel by car or by bus with Alsa the leading coach company in the region. Book a ferry from Plymouth to Santander >> Plymouth to Roscoff with Brittany Ferries Journey time: 6-8 hours Timings: up to two return crossings per day in peak summer season with day and overnight options. Leaves Plymouth at around 08:00 and/or 22:00, depending on the day and season Facilities on board: restaurants, bars, cafe, shops, live entertainment, cinemas, children’s play area, pool and spa (on some crossings) Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Fo ot passengers can travel with a bicycle for a small charge each way. Other info: Roscoff is well placed for holidays in Brittany, Normandy and the Loir e Book a ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff >> Newhaven to Dieppe with DFDS Journey time: 4 hours Timings: 3 daily sailings in both directions May-September (2 daily sailings at other times) Facilities on board: restaurant, bar, shop, children’s play area Sleeper cabins: 2-4 berth cabins Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle free of charge. Other info: you can travel by coach from Dieppe to Paris in 2.5 hours or connect to the intercity French rail network via Rouen Book a ferry from Newhaven to Dieppe >> Dover to Calais with P&O Ferries Journey time: 1.5 hours Timings: up to 2 3 daily sailings in both directions, depending on the time of year Facilities on board: food court, restaurant, cafe, bar, shop, kid’s club Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage. Foot passengers can travel with a bicycle free of charge but must book the bicycle in advance with one bicycle per booking so groups with multiple bicycles need to make separate bookings. Other info: there are four ticket types from Saver to Premier, which give you varying flexibility, wifi access and lounge access. Only passengers travelling with a car can bring their pet Dover to Calais with DFDS Journey time: 1.5 hours Timings: up to 30 daily sailings in both directions, depending on the time of year Facilities on board: restaurant, cafe, bar, shop, kid’s play area, free wi-fi Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage and no extra cost to bring bicycles with a vehicle Other info: DFDS does not accept foot passengers on its Dover-Calais route - only those travelling with a vehicle. A ‘ Flexi ticket’ allows you to travel up to 72 hours either side of your original booking, subject to availability. Passengers can bring their pet at a cost of £15 each way. For onwards travel, Calais is on the Intercity rail network with the option to connect to towns including Boulogne, Lille, Amiens and Arras on the TER network. Book a ferry from Dover to Calais >> Dover to Dunkirk with DFDS Journey time: 2 hours Timings: up to 24 daily sailings in both directions, depending on the time of year Facilities on board: restaurant, cafe, bar, shop, kid’s play area, free wi-fi Luggage: there’s no limit on luggage and no extra cost to bring bicycles with a vehicle Other info: DFDS does not accept foot passengers on its Dover-Dunkirk route - only those travelling with a vehicle. A ‘ Flexi ticket’ allows you to travel up to 72 hours either side of your original booking, subject to availability. Passengers can bring their pet at a cost of £15 each way. Dunkirk is well served by public transport - buses around the town are free and the train station is on the Intercity network with trains to Paris taking 2.5 hours Book a ferry from Dover to Dunkirk >> From Wales to Europe by coach Travelling by coach is usually the cheapest way to travel to Europe from Wales and is relatively straight forward thanks to the M4 motorway, which runs east-west from south Wales to London. For journeys starting in North Wales, coaches tend to travel via Crewe, Birmingham or Manchester. For more information on these, take a look at our guide for flight-free travel from the North of England to Europe . Here are a few sample journey times including a change in London: Coach from Cardiff to Paris: from 15.5 hours; Cardiff to Amsterdam: from 17 hours Coach from Swansea to Paris: from 17.5 hours; Swansea to Amsterdam: from 19 hours Coach from Newport to Paris: from 15 hours; Newport to Amsterdam: from 16.5 hours Most coach routes serving mid and west Wales start in Aberystwyth or connect through here via local services. From Aberystwyth coaches either run directly east through Shrewsbury to London and Birmingham, or head south via Swansea, Cardiff and Newport to London. National Express services terminate in London Victoria from where you can change to its international coach services which go to many European cities, including Calais, Paris, Lille, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, The Hague, Utrecht, Brussels, Antwerp and Bruges. Luggage: You can take a hand luggage bag and medium-sized bag for the hold weighing no more than 20kg. Only folding bicycles are accepted. Facilities: coaches are air conditioned and have wi-fi and USB charging points as well as toilets and while no refreshments are sold onboard, you can pack your own food and drink for the journey and stops are made at service stations to stock up on supplies. Another European coach operator is Flixbus, which now incorporates the Eurolines and Isilines bus companies, with services out of London Victoria. It offers more destinations than National Express and beyond - such as Vienna from London in 26 hours, Frankfurt in 13.5 hours and Prague in 24 hours. You can even travel as far as Bucharest - a 44-hour journey across six countries. The same luggage restrictions apply with one piece of hand luggage and one hold luggage up to 20kg, and bikes can be taken on the bike rack from E9 per journey. Buses have free wifi, charging sockets, toilets, and on some journeys food and drink is sold onboard in addition to the refreshment stops. The cost varies depending on the route, time of year and so on, so check the coach operator’s website for fares. Coach tickets provided by Flixbus: From Wales to Europe by train To travel from Wales to Europe by rail, you need to go via London to connect to Eurostar’s international rail network out of London St Pancras International Railway Station. Here are a few train journey times (times show the total duration of the trip, including allowing for sufficient time to transfer from Paddington to the Eurostar check-in and for the 45-minute check-in time at Eurostar, based on appropriate times of connecting trains in to and out of London): Train from Cardiff to Paris: 6 hours; Cardiff to Amsterdam: 7.5 hours Train from Swansea to Paris: 5.5 hours; Swansea to Amsterdam: 9 hours Train from Newport to Paris: 6 hours; Newport to Amsterdam: 7 hours In north-west Wales, services start in Holyhead and onwards to Chester and Crewe to connect with rail routes in the North of England and onto London. For mid Wales, branch lines connect to Shrewsbury then onto Birmingham and finally London. On both of these routes your train would terminate in London Euston, from which it is a 15-minute walk to St Pancras. Rail services in south Wales run from Fishguard on the south-west tip of Wales through Swansea, Cardiff and Newport via Reading into London Paddington. From here it’s a 20 minute journey on the London Underground to St Pancras. Eurostar runs direct services to Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Lyon, Lille and Disneyland Paris (and in the winter there’s a ‘ski train’ service via Lille to Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne and Bourg-St-Maurice). You can buy through-tickets that start outside of London and go beyond Eurostar’s destinations travelling with local operators. If you are travelling with a bike, check which routes accept bikes. The fee is around £30. Dogs are not permitted on Eurostar except guide dogs. Train tickets provided by Trainline: ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of train and ferry routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers. Bon Voyage!
- New low-cost high-speed train connects Barcelona to Malaga
A new rail service between Malaga and Barcelona launches this Sunday, 15th December, connecting two of Spain's most popular cities in 5 hours, 50 minutes. Tickets are on offer from €22.20 one way. Sunset over Malaga port. Photo: Wixmedia The new train route is run by low-cost private operator Iryo (a consortium between train company Trenitalia and Spanish airline Air Nostrum), providing one daily departure each way between the cities, seven days a week. The train is scheduled to leave Barcelona at 11.50am and arrive in Malaga at 5.42pm. En route, the train will stop at Cordoba, Madrid and Zaragoza. Tickets are currently on offer from €22.20, €44 and €64 one way on its weekday services, depending on the class of ticket. The standard ticket (which rises to being from €26.20 at weekends) is known as 'Inicial', while the other two are 'Singular Only You' (billed as being for 'entrepreneurs and companies for space to travel') where you can select individual or teamwork tables, and 'Infinita Bistró' - that includes a bistro dining service. Tickets are already on sale for the 15th December onwards, as well as for journeys in 2025 from the Iryo website: iryo.eu The service is part of a number of rail connections that link the north and south of Spain. Spain operator Renfe already runs a high-speed AVE service between Barcelona and Malaga that has a journey time of just under 6 hours, in addition to multiple daily options for travelling via connections in Madrid. Watch our video guide to Spain: For trips on where to find characterful accommodation, delicious local, seasonal food, places of interest and a range of low impact outdoor adventure, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain .
- Places to stay in Spain
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , we've picked out a selection of places to stay across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Hospederia Valle Del Jerte, Extremadura A converted former olive oil mill in the village of Jerte with 28 bedrooms, the best of which overlook the cobbled town square or terraces of cherry tree groves in the hillsides behind. Indulge the regional produce with the hotel’s four-course cherry menu with such imaginative uses of the fruit as creamy cherry rice with millefeuille of sea bass with Iberian ham or Jerte cherry semifreddo. The restaurant has glass windows floor to ceiling overlooking its gardens and infinity pool. hospederiasdeextremadura.es Hotel Rural Abadia de Yuste, Extremadura A 15-bedroom hotel in a 16th Century restored abbey in Yuste, a pretty town and best known for the Monastery of Yuste, where Charles V, Roman Emperor, retired and died. It starts from around £60 a night and has a sunny terrace, outdoor pool, courtyard and restaurant. There’s original features throughout and restored furniture from the abbey though it is best known for its food. All bread and pastries are made on site and the chef, Rubén Homero, celebrates sustainable cooking ‘the only part of the pig we don't eat is the grunt’ he told us and many of the dishes make use of leftovers - the region's most popular is migas extremeñas, which makes yesterday's bread into breadcrumbs to fry up with pieces of leftover ham and pimentón spice, which is like paprika and widely produced in the region. abadiadeyuste.com El Jardin de Las Delizias, Extremadura A Glorious glampsite on an ecologically cherry farm in the heart of the spectacular Jerte Valley. Each of the three Mongolian yurts (Sky, Fire and Earth) have a private garden – it's a place to disconnect from modern day life and reconnect with nature. Owners Leti and Jose have installed a charging point for electric cars, and there's a pool with wonderful views over the hills and valley. eljardindelasdelizias.com Parador de Jarandilla de la Vera, Extremadura Housed in the splendid castle-palace of the 16th Century Counts of Oropesa, close to the Tiétar and Jerte rivers, this luxury Parador has preserved the original moat and towered walls as well as a two-storey Gothic gallery in the inner courtyard. No wonder Charles V chose this as his refuge after his abdication before settling permanently in the nearby Yuste monastery. The restaurant specialises in the region's food – expect acorn-fed Iberian ham from the Dehesa de Extremadura, as well as cheeses, vegetables and paprika from La Vera. Nearby are Casa de Don Luis de Quijada, the medieval Parral bridge, and the church of Santa María de la Torre, an old Templar fortress from the 12th century. www.parador.es Hotel Dona Major, Frómista, Palencia, Castilla y León In the historic centre of Frómista (Palencia) – in the heart of the French Camino de Santiago – the 12-room hotel is named after Queen Doña Mayor (Muniadona of Castile), founder of the Monastery of San Martin and its Romanesque church, circa 1066. There's a strong commitment to green energy throughout: the electricity for the pool, restaurant and smart, unfussy rooms comes via 26 solar panels on the roof and renewable green energy sources, there's solar thermal for the hotel's hot water, modern aerothermal equipment for air-conditioning, and wood pellet fire places. Cyclists can store bikes in a small bike storage house. hoteldonamayor.com No Mad Green Hotel, Castilla y León A 22-room eco boutique hotel in the town of Molinaseca on the Camino de Santiago (Bierzo region) 5 kilometres from Ponferrada. The emphasis is on 'noble' materials, such as wood, glass and iron, along with rattan and wicker, with lots of natural light flooding the rooms. There's a zero-waste policy for the restaurant area (expect filtered water in glass bottles) as well as plastic-free rooms. If you can stir from the relaxing environment, there's a range of local activities, such as wine-tasting and electric biking. no-mad-hotel.es La Alquería de Valverde country house, Castilla-La Mancha A characterful, rustic country house (with several double rooms and a separate self-catering apartment) in the village of Zarzuela de Galve in Valverde – an area of the Sierra Norte Natural Park renowned for its black architecture, near the mountains that separate this Guadalajara region from Segovia at the foot of Pico Ocejón. There's a commitment to sustainability throughout, will all cleaning products made with organic products, a comprehensive recycling system, and a breakfast packed with homemade pastries, jam, crushed tomato and oil. Pets can stay in the Rural Apartment El Cotorrito. laalqueriadevalverde.es Al Viento del Ocejón country house, Castilla-La Mancha A charming rural house – built in black slate, that's close to Pico Ocejón and the Sierra Norte Natural Park , just 120 kilometres from Madrid. There are two floors with 6 simple double rooms (all with bathrooms), an independent kitchen (and outdoor charcoal barbecue), dining room with panoramic views, and a cosy living room with a fireplace for the winter. There's a range of outdoor activities nearby, including a well-signposted network of hiking trails and mountain bike routes through forests and across streams, as well as places to go canoeing. In winter there's cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. alvientodelocejon.com Cantalojas campsite, Castilla-La Mancha A wonderful campsite at the gateway to the Sierra Norte National Park that's the only place allowed for camping in this area. There are pitches for tents and motorhomes with electricity plug-in plus four modern bungalows that sleep up to six, two of which welcome pets. It has a super restaurant on site, offering seasonal, fresh cooked food and a frequently changing menu under the friendly and efficient management of Maria. It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and offers takeaway with dishes including salads, grilled meat and regional specialities. campinglosbonales.es Casas Benali, Comunidad de Valencia Owners Daniel and Martine have fused modern Scandinavian style with ancient Arabesque to create a remarkable rural retreat among 68 hectares of land just one hour southwest of Valencia. Three smart rustic houses (packed with wooden furniture, wool and leather) can be hired individually or by a group (of up to 28 people) with private pool, garden, retreat studio, and covered terrace and large multi-functional workspace for workshops. There is a range of organised activities, including wine tasting and cookery, while the adventurous can go talking up to castle Xátiva (a twin fortress high above Xátiva), hiking to waterfalls and canyoning. casasbenali.com Watch our video about Spain: Ecohotel Nos, Galicia A bucolic farmhouse B&B on the shore of a lake 45 minutes' drive from Lugo. Owners Sietske and Tariq have lovingly restored the main house and five ensuite bedrooms in the building across the courtyard. Period features such as wooden beams and thick stone walls remain while each rooms is unique with striking artwork and furniture made by local craftsmen. Guests are invited to wander the organic gardens, laze in hammocks or star gaze thanks to the light pollution-free skies. A vegetarian breakfast of homemade and locally sourced produce includes Galician cheese, yoghurt and honey, while a an evening meals of tapas, or ‘pintxos’ can be prepared if ordered in advance. casacabaza.com EcoFarm Asturias This ‘glampsite’ may be off the grid but it is only 40 minutes drive from Oviedo and there’s no skimping on the luxury. There are three choices - the caravan that sleeps four overlooking wild woodland with a mini kitchen and composting loo and the yurt that sleeps five and has a simple field kitchen with a deck and hammock. Then, the cabana that sleeps up to six. It is a traditional rural building where animals would have slept below and the shepherd above. Water comes from a private spring and solar powered phone chargers and showers are available. Guests can self cater and order ahead for a veg box, eggs, potatoes, a fresh bunch of herbs, plus there’s barbecue facilities using home produced charcoal from the farm’s sweet chestnut coppice. Evening meals can be provided for €15 for adults, half price for kids, offering dishes such as chicken with olives, lemon, honey, ginger and coriander. ecofarmasturias.org Casa Zalama, Cantabria When Casa Zalama’s six bedrooms are full, its occupants increase the population of the village, San Pelayo, by 50%. This is countryside life in the slow and peaceful lane, yet Santander and Bilbao are just an hour’s drive away. The house is rustic and traditional and surrounded by a pretty garden with plenty of spots to unwind. There is also a self catering cottage that sleeps four with its own kitchen and garden area. Breakfast and dinner is home cooked and much of it homegrown including traditional rustic Spanish dishes, perfect for the surroundings - antique reclaimed furniture, baskets, woodwork hanging on thick stone walls. casazalama.es Eco Hotel Mundaka, Basque Country Mundaka is a world famous surf destination thanks to its left-breaking wave, considered the finest in Europe in its category, and reaching up to four metres high. Mundaka also boasts a pretty harbour and is in the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, which includes beaches, forests, rivers and islands. The Eco Hotel is in the centre of town and 300 metres from the beach. It has simple but bright ensuite 19 single, double or triple rooms and stands strongly by ecological principles including solar power, smart water use and minimal use of chemicals. It has a dining room offering a locally sourced breakfast, a surf school and gelateria in season. hotelmundaka.com La Rectoria de Sant Miquel de Pineda, Costa Brava, Catalonia There’s a touch of Scotland in this beautifully restored 12th-century former rectory in volcanic La Garrotxa Natural Park. The house itself is decidedly Catalan, albeit imbued with a contemporary flair, its wood beams, whitewashed walls and tiles augmented with clever design touches such as ancient doors repurposed as bed headboards. But tartan blankets, a range of single malt whiskies and events including a Burns Night supper reflect the Caledonian heritage of one half of the pair who own and run this wonderful guesthouse – Scot Roy Lawson and his Catalan wife Goretti. Seven homely bedrooms (doubles and twins that can be combined for families) have views across oak-wooded valleys and hills. Fine dinners are available, along with secure bike storage – the house sits alongside the Ruta del Carrilet greenway cycle trail between Olot and Girona. larectoriadesantmiquel.com Mas Ardèvol, Falset, Costa Daurada, Catalonia An idyllic rural house amid ten hectares of land in the green hills above Porrera. It specialises in traditional Priorat food, including fresh produce from their own vegetable garden, oil, and wine. There are two rooms inside the main house while outside there are three spacious thick-walled rooms and a natural swimming pool - perfect for a plunge on a hot day. Indulge in a variety of treatments, including a massage and body moisturising using natural ingredients, such as organic olives and hazelnuts. If you can tear yourself aware from the tranquility, nearby are the sundial route in Porrera and the Montsant mountain range. masardevol.net Mas Garganta, La Garrotxa, Catalonia A beautifully renovated 14th Century farmhouse on a hill overlooking the D'en Bas valley close to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in the Catalan Pyrenees. Run by the affable Inis, it's about as homely as you could imagine, and in a ridiculously picturesque setting. There are 12 simple, comfortable bedrooms at the ‘casa rural’, a wonderful farmhouse kitchen with huge fireplace, a lovely pool, and mountain views from every angle. We visited in the winter, and despite the evening chill and the roaring fire indoors, we couldn’t tear ourselves away from the valley views and instead sat out on the terrace feasting late into the night. masgarganta.com Casa Las Chimeneas, Las Alpujarras Your hosts' enthusiasm and local knowledge really stands out - from walks and attractions to cookery courses, writing, painting and yoga retreats, and wildlife walks, they'll ensure you get the most out of your trip, leaving you free to soak up the relaxing atmosphere. The kitchen in this charming little restaurant attached to the guesthouse of the same name is the domain of Soledad and Conchita, who rustle up a choice of dishes for dinner each evening. Vegetarians aren’t short-changed, with at least one tempting option for each of the three dinner courses – perhaps ajo blanco (chilled almond and garlic soup) followed by stuffed aubergines with goats cheese and rounded off with a sinful fig cake produced by baking supremo Andrew. There’s a well-chosen selection of Alpujarran wines to wash it all down, and a terrace with sweeping views south towards the Med. laschimeneas.com Viña y Rosales, Las Alpujarras Tucked in the hillsides of Las Alpujarras, this mansion house is a haven of relaxation. There are four large guest rooms and a garden with several terraces packed with herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers (it's called after the beautiful roses and vines). Nothing is too much trouble for the lovely hosts; it's the perfect place to rest and enjoy some wonderful food after a day outdoors in the spectacular surroundings – it's on the scenic GR7 mountain route of the stunning Alpujarras. alpujarras.alojamiento.raya.org Hotel Rural Almirez, Las Alpujarras This small family-run hotel prides itself on being 'your' hotel, and you'll certainly feel at home here. Surrounded by almond groves and the owners' organic vineyard, tuck into traditional Alpujarran dishes lovingly prepared by 'grandma Teresa', and sip wines from the vineyard as you take in the stunning view. Choose from 15 trails that run the Sierra Nevada National Park, which is also a Biosphere Reserve (see Outdoor Adventure Activities in Spain ). hotelalmirez.es Can Marti, Ibiza, Balearic Islands A beautiful, authentic and organic farmhouse in a quiet and idyllic spot in the unspoilt north of the island. This tiny oasis is a ten-minute walk from the nearest village, Sant Joan and located in the very heart of the Área Natural de Es Amunts, yet close to the fabulous beaches notched into the rugged coast line in tiny bays covered with white sands. In such a tranquil place you can’t quite believe you are in Ibiza if your impression of Ibiza is a really busy, noisy place – come here and see a completely alternative side to the island. Switch everything off and just be in the moment – pick some figs, commune with the ducks, geese and donkeys and relax by the pool, watching the dragonflies swoop across the glassy surface to the song sung by the native frogs. canmarti.com Casbah Formentera, Formentera, Balearic Islands The name may conjure the hustle and bustle of North Africa’s souks but all is calm and serene at this leafy hotel, less than 10 minutes’ walk from Migjorn beach. Set within a pine grove, Casbah Formentera’s beautifully landscaped gardens are home to a swimming pool, and a gazebo set up for outdoor massages, while sweeps of bougainvillea and hibiscus line the paths between its bedrooms. The restaurant is a destination in its own right; diners come to linger over octopus croquettes or expertly cooked steaks in its magical indoor-out setting. hotelcasbahformentera.com Ecocirer, Majorca, Balearic Islands Six rooms in an historic turn of the century family-run townhouse in the village of Sóller near the northwest coast of the island. Bike-friendly – Sóller is surrounded by world-famous cycling routes – there's storage for bikes and maintenance facilities, and the owners offer cycling packages with personalised routes. It's also a mecca for foodies: every Saturday morning, you can join a cookery lesson using the ingredients from the garden to then enjoy over a Mediterranean style lunch. The food is plant-based, seasonal – organic, vegan and vegetarian recipes change daily. using home-grown fruit and vegetables. Recycling is also top of the billing here – the owners says that "every element in our home is 100% recycled". Each piece "the result of a long process of research, restoration and creativity". https://ecocirer.com/ Lanzarote Retreats, Lanzarote, Canary Islands A popular family-run eco retreat in the northeast of the island, offering a range of accommodation, either within its own eco village in Arrieta or at holiday villas, cottages and apartments elsewhere on the island. The eco village, designed to be an "off-grid eco-retreat" has stone cottages, large yurts, and villas catering for families, couples and groups. According to the owners, its solar energy powers its desalination plant which meets most of its energy needs, while the remainder is provided by wind energy and gas. There's a host of activities on offer from yoga and pilates to windsurfing, wine tasting and guided tours and hiking. https://lanzaroteretreats.com Finca Casa de la Virgen, Gran Canaria, Canary Islands Two country houses (the two-storey 19th Century main house sleeps 6, the single-storey cottage sleeps 4) within the floodplain of a 17,000 square metre country estate inland in the north of the island that's home to the Canary Island bellflower, a symbol of the island's endemic flora. Relax in the informal grounds – rich in biodiversity – then explore the area's mountains, gorges and laurel forests, great for day hikes and birdwatching in the Doramus Rural Park. fincacasadelavirgen.com == For nearby places to eat, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain
- Spain's Rail Renaissance and Community Based Conservation in Belize
The Green Traveller Digest Welcome to my latest round up of news, features and comments on green travel. This newsletter is written by me, Richard Hammond, the founder of Green Traveller. If you'd like to receive the newsletter by email, please subscribe here . Editorial: This month, I've been hearing how both Spain and France (the two most visited countries for UK tourists) have been developing more options for sustainable transport. Spain has been embracing the ‘open access’ liberalisation of the European rail network. There's no doubt that increased competition among rail operators (especially on high profile routes throughout Europe) has led to improved services and reduced ticket costs. Nowhere is this more apparent than on the high-speed line between Barcelona and Madrid, which is now served by four operators, including AVE (operated by Spanish Railways, Renfe), and Iryo (a joint venture of Trenitalia & Air Nostrum using Italian-designed Frecciarossa trains), and two low-cost operators OUIGO (a subsidy of French Railways, SNCF), and Avlo (a subsidiary of Spanish Railways, Renfe). Single tickets for the 2.5 hour, 386 mile journey can be snapped up for as little as €7. I've written more about this in my article: All aboard the train in Spain . At World Travel Market, I met with Marina Ferrari, the recently-appointed French Minister for Tourism Economy, who told me about the work of ADEME (the French Agency for Ecological Transition), and how there are plans to develop cycling throughout the country, including e-bikes as well as hydrogen powered bikes, at national, regional and local levels. Mrs Ferrari also explained at WTM how France has plans to increase rail and coach services: “We’re working with SNCF to ensure more tourists use trains – but we’re also working to introduce more coaches. If you put 50 people on a coach, then you’re saving 15 cars on the road”, she told TTG's Daniel Pearce: Olympic legacy continues for France with focus on rail . (Congrats to TTG who were awarded this week as the Independent Publishing Company of the Year at the PPA Independent Publisher Awards) Earlier this year, I returned to Calabash Caye in Belize where I worked as a volunteer on a marine conservation project for Coral Cay Conservation in the 1990s. It was heartening to hear from Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer for the Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association, about how conservation has evolved since my time there and that the reef system is now being protected to promote the 'blue economy'. I travelled with the travel journalist Meera Dattani who has written two wonderful features on community based travel - one on nature conservation and another on local food, see: Green Traveller's Guide to Belize Green Travel News News from COP29 Carbon Brief has produced a handy guide to the key outcomes agreed at the UN climate talks in Baku Train to Cop: From Blighty to Baku Kudos to Carbon Jacked who travelled overland from the UK to COP29 in Azerbaijan. 10 countries, 3400 miles, 100 hours. Train to the slopes Travelski’s Express train service to the Alps has announced it will again be running this winter from London on Saturday mornings (from 21st December) and returning the following Sunday with daytime train travel in both directions and 8 nights of accommodation (to facilitate a full 7 days of skiing) as standard. The line-up of resorts has expanded to include Chamonix and La Clusaz, as well as Tignes, Val d’Isère, Val Thorens, Méribel, Brides les Bains, Courchevel, Les Ménuires, Les Arcs, La Plagne and La Rosiére. Eurostar has also announced that it will also again be running its indirect service – Eurostar Snow – where customers change at Lille for onward connection to the French Alps on a Eurostar continental train calling at Chambéry, Albertville, Moutiers, Aime-La Plagne, Landry and Bourg-Saint-Maurice. For more info on taking the train to the slopes, see: How to take the train to Europe's Ski Resorts by Snowcarbon's Daniel Elkan. European Sleeper extends to Prague Overnight train service European Sleeper has extended its route from Brussels to Berlin to continue to Prague, via Dresden and Bad Schandau. The night train, which includes a bike carriage, also stops in in Děčín and Ústí nad Labem in the Czech Republic, for the Elbe Cycle Path and the Czech Switzerland Crest Trail. "We are truly thrilled to be launching the new route to Prague less than a year after launching our first direct service from Brussels to Berlin", said Elmer van Buuren, Co-Founder, of European Sleeper. "Our goal is to add a new route each year so we can continue to contribute to a more integrated and sustainable European transportation network". Madeira gains green seal The Portuguese archipelago of Madeira has been given a green seal of approval for its commitment to sustainable tourism. Independent auditor EarthCheck visited and evaluated the island group to assess its alignment with 12 key areas, including the preservation of its cultural and natural heritage, as well as the balanced enhancement of its environmental, social, cultural and economic dimensions. FlixBus Launches First London – Cambridge Electric Coach Service Coach operator FlixBus has launched a 100% electric long-distance coach service between Cambridge and London. The electric vehicle, launched in partnership with Whippet and Zenobē, will run between Cambridge city centre, Trumpington Park and Ride, London Finchley Road and Victoria Coach Station. Andreas Schorling, Managing Director of FlixBus UK said: "Following our launch of England and Wales first electric coach service, we're thrilled to be trialling another zero-emission service as we build the largest coach network in the country." According to the company, the vehicle, provided by Pelican Yutong, will save 167kg of carbon emissions per day driven - two round trips - on the route compared to the average diesel-fuelled coach. First Bus signs five-year partnership with Flixbus , boosting daily services across the South-West of England and expanding routes in northern cities including Leeds, Manchester, and Newcastle. Keswick becomes virtual railway station Keswick has become a “virtual railway station” with visitors now able to buy a combined ticket covering rail and bus travel to Keswick in the Lake District. Even though it doesn’t have a railway station, Avanti West Coast has added Keswick as a destination on rail journey planners so just one ticket covering travel across both modes of transport can be purchased to travel there. The creation of a virtual railway station means people can view the timings of the train and bus departures, as well as book a single fully integrated ticket for their entire journey. Available for travel on the West Coast Main Line, the ticket can be used on Avanti West Coast’s services to Penrith (gateway to the North Lakes) and Stagecoach’s X4 and X5 bus service to Keswick – preventing the need for multiple tickets and transactions. Customers select ‘Keswick Bus’ as their destination when booking via Avanti West Coast’s website and app or at ticket offices, to receive one ticket for their complete journey. Inntravel low carbon trips Specialist operator, Inntravel , which is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year, is highlighting a series of low carbon self-guided trips either on foot or two wheels. Last year it partnered with carbon consultancy ecollective to give each and every one of its 300 holidays a carbon score. Examples include a food-filled break in Aracena where guests are given a glimpse of Spanish rural life, a cycling holiday in Bordeaux and St Emilion, and a walking holiday in Germany’s Bavarian Alps, which has a carbon score of just 7kg per person per day. Ecotourism and Regeneration in Catalonia The Catalan Tourist Board has produced a map of 30 ecotourism areas [pdf] where visitors can stay in eco-friendly accommodation and take part in outdoor adventure seeing wildlife in its natural habitat while contributing to biodiversity conservation. It also provides information for four kinds of ecotourists: passionate, curious, intrepid and family. Accommodation includes Hotel Molí de la Torre – a converted textile mill in Costa Barcelona, and Cerdanya Ecoresort in the Catalan Pyrenees. Long haul flights: the elephant in the room Celeste Hicks of the Aviation Environment Federation has written a comment piece about efforts to reduce the carbon emissions of short haul and long haul flights, in the light of Chancellor Rachel Reeves announcement of a 50% increase in Air Passenger Duty (APD) on certain private jets. In her article, she references a report by Dobruszkes, Mattioli and Gozzoli, which showed that "flights of less than 500km account for 26.7% of flights, but only 5.2% of fuel burnt; while flights of 4000km or more account for just 5.1% of flights, but 39% of fuel burnt". Celeste concludes "It seems that there is no other option but to push for all the solutions at once – including behaviour change, modal shift for short-haul AND a huge increase in investment for technological advances". ===== News from Green Traveller Green Traveller's Guide to Spain We've published a Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , which aims to showcase the best of the country’s year-round low impact experiences, encouraging visitors to use the country's extensive rail network and travel in a slower more meaningful way, stay longer and make the most of locally run activities. Video of Green Traveller's Guide to Spain The guide includes feature articles illustrated by our own professionally taken photos and video, which we've produced with the support of the Spanish Tourist Office in London. Manuel Butler, Director of the Spanish Tourist Office in London, says: "This video showcases a variety of Spain’s sustainable highlights, including the impressive natural landscapes and how best to enjoy outdoor adventures. It also shows some of the incredible cuisine that Spain has to offer, spotlighting the experiences available through local producers and artisans. Promoting lesser-known gems, it offers a look into how travellers can delve into the history and culture of the destinations visited. Through this collaboration with Green Traveller, the Spanish Tourist Office hopes to encourage geographical diversification, off-season travel and true cultural immersion, providing inspiration for a responsible visit to Spain." Green Traveller's Guide to Belize We've produced a Green Traveller's Guide to Belize . I travelled there to film travel journalist Meera Dattani who has written two wonderful features on community based travel - one on nature conservation and another on local food. During the trip we met with Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer for the Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association. Describing our time with Eidon, Meera writes: "As we walk and talk, he tells me about the importance of the mangrove ecosystem for flood protection and providing a haven for juvenile species, to the seaweed farms offering alternative livelihoods to fishermen with its beauty and health benefits (‘mariculture’). "Our walk leads us across the hammock bridge and to the trail’s bird tower. I don’t think I’d ever taken in such a sight. As I turn my head, I’m treated to a 360-degree view of miles of mangroves, broken up only by the blue hues of the Caribbean Sea. Seeing something with your own eyes reinforces what you’ve just learnt, and you realise just how important it is to protect it." Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine We've produced a Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine showcasing a range of accommodation, places to find seasonal, organic food, sights of interest and low impact activities. The guide has followed a week I spent in Nouvelle-Aquitaine with sustainable comms guru Nicola Forsyth. We travelled by train from London to Bordeaux (Eurostar, then just two hours from Paris) to spend three days seeing the sights in the city before heading out by train and electric bike to explore The Dordogne Valley, including sampling a stage of La Flow Vélo – a new 350km cycle trail that runs from the Dordogne to the Atlantic coast, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River and the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort. The Hautes Alps - the other side of the mountain I've written about a trip I made with my family by train to the Haute Alps – a lesser-known region of the French Alps – to try out a series of outdoor mountain activities with Undiscovered Mountains who run multi-activity holidays throughout the area. Read the article (watch the video below): The other side of the mountain The Green Traveller magazine The latest issue of our magazine The Green Traveller features: Get the Picture - responsible photography in The Farne Islands, by Diana Jarvis Overland travel to Greece, by Rhiannon Batten Postcard from Korvemaa, by Rebecca Miles Menu from Catalonia, by Paul Bloomfield Wild Swimming in Extremadura, Spain, by Ginny Light Brave New World of Nouvelle-Aquitaine, by Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth Mountain Highs in the Hautes Alps, by Richard Hammond Community-based conservation in Belize, by Meera Dattani ...and much more!
- Review of The Scrumpling off-grid hideaway in Somerset
A beautifully restored vintage caravan in two acres of woodland close to the Glastonbury festival site, Frome, Wells and Bruton. Photos: Kym Grimshaw Photography In a nutshell: An upcycled off-grid caravan in woods in a beautiful part of Somerset, 7 minutes drive to Vobster Quay open-water swimming and diving, 15 mins drive to Glastonbury Festival site, and within easy reach of Frome, Bruton and Wells. Rooms: 1 (sleeps 2, plus babes in arms), plus sofabed for one child; in addition, there is a separate cabin across the meadow for two older children (or further adults) Price: From £95/night, minimum stay 2 nights, includes all linen, kitchen essentials (teas, coffee, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper) and a welcome hamper (eggs, butter, milk, homemade bread and biscuits plus local cider or apple juice). Meals: Self-catering. Pub serves decent food in village 10-minute walk; the excellent Talbot Inn and well-stocked village shop are both in nearby village of Mells, 5-minute drive. Open: Easter to October Facilities: Kitchen, Washroom, including hot shower Good for Green: Off-grid; Hot water for shower provided by biomass. Walkers welcome; Cyclists welcome ==== Our Review of The Scrumpling The Setting The word Scrumpling is an old Somerset name for ' “misshapen apple”, which reflects the setting of this vintage caravan: in two acres of private woodland and meadow adjacent to the owner's family home in the heart of cider country. There's private off-road parking, from where you walk 50 yds along a curving woodchip path to the hideaway in the woods. The Rooms The cosy caravan has a king-size bed, open shelving and a green velvet sofabed. Large windows let the dappled woodland light flood in. There are lots of books, games and art materials and a telescope if want to investigate the magical night skies in this part of the world. The Food There's a cute kitchen shed just a few metres from the caravan, which is equipped with a two-ring gas hob, coolbox, large drinking water container and all the usual crockery, cutlery and pans for cooking. >> Travel Writer Sarah Baxter stayed at the Scrumpling while researching for her article about the Somerset Food Trail, read here article in the i paper: Somerset Food Trail The Activities On site, guests have the run of the two-acre site to themselves, there are hammocks in a little glade in the woods, and an outdoor table and chairs for breakfasts and dinners, a campfire, and deckchairs overlooking a large pond. It's a 10-minute walk across some fields to the village where there's a pub selling decent food, and it's just 5 minutes by car to the famous village of Mells where there's a village shop and the excellent Talbot Inn . The site is 15 minutes to the Glastonbury Festival Site at Pilton, and just over 10 minutes to Frome where there's a famous independent market on the first Sunday of every month. It's also very convienient for anyone wishing to go open water swimming or scube diving at Vobster Quay Open Water Activity Centre . Eco-friendly initiatives The Scrumpling is off-grid (the owner can charge devices if you’re stuck but there is generally no WiFi, heating, electric lighting or electricity across the site) - the emphasis is very much on getting back to nature. Top tip If you're looking to go walking, the site is just off the East Mendip Way and close to the Mendip Hills – Cheddar Gorge is popular but Ebbor Gorge is slightly quieter, and handy for a pint of cider at the Queen Victoria Inn, in Priddy , on the way home. Verdict Perfect for a Somerset escape, whether you're out walking the Mendip Hills or wanting a rural escape that's close to the historic towns such as Frome, Glastonbury and Wells. >> See also the view of the Scrumpling by Emma Bradshaw . >> The Scrumpling was named in the Guardian's 10 of Britain’s best vintage caravan stays . How to book Contact owner Rhiannon via her website www.thescrumpling.co.uk/book-now Or call Rhiannon on: 07976 729113 Mention ' Green Traveller ' to Rhiannon when you book and receive receive a freshly baked treat during your stay! == Disclosure: The Scrumpling is run by Rhiannon, wife of Green Traveller's founder, Richard Hammond.
- Overland to Greece to a villa in the sun
A traditional Mediterranean holiday without flying? It is possible, says Rhiannon Batten. This is how (and why) she did it, taking the train and ferry all the way from London to Corfu The sun was setting over Panagia Vlacherna monastery as we strolled from Pontikonisi beach to Kanoni peninsula, on the outskirts of Corfu Town. This spot is a gathering place for local plane-spotters, who flock to watch a jet stream of package holiday flights take off and land, but our eyes were drawn instead to the reedy wetlands around its base, and some circling herons. Like the birds, people from the town in small rowing boats were heading out to fish, the water dripping from their oars gilded rose gold by the evening light. Walking down to dinner is rarely this magical but then we’re rarely staying at Villa Icarus. This slick four-bedroom bolthole in Perama, on the eastern coast of Corfu, comes with an espresso machine, a high-tech barbecue and a serene private pool that overlooks nothing but olive groves and herb-speckled hillsides. Proving that sustainable holidays don’t have to mean camping, it was also (crucially) reachable by train and ferry. Because while the siren call of sun-warmed sand and poolside snoozing is hard to resist when you live in a place where high summer still involves packing a ‘just in case’ anorak, in 2021 I swore off flying. Six years earlier, signatory governments to the Paris Accord had agreed to limit global heating to 1.5°C above pre-industrial levels to prevent the catastrophic impact of climate change. To achieve that everyone on Earth needs to emit just 2.3 tons of CO2 per year by 2030 ― roughly half the average at the time. While some believe it is up to governments, and industries, to implement change, or hope that technological advances will save us, neither of these things are happening quickly enough. Instead I decided to limit my own carbon emissions. This means that air travel is no longer an option. Though comparisons vary according to the fuel efficiency of different planes and trains, air travel accounts for around 70 percent of a typical holidaymaker’s carbon emissions; travelling by plane between London and Paris, for instance, emits about 10 times more carbon dioxide than travelling by Eurostar (emitting carbon dioxide at higher altitudes is also thought to have more of an effect on climate change). There are myriad alternatives, from sail and rail, or sail and drive, to buying an Interrail pass (though beware that seat reservations can add significant costs to the price of the initial pass). Frustratingly, all cost more than the equivalent air fare; sign up for ticket release alerts on the services you intend to use, particularly for Eurostar where the cheaper seats sell at inter-stellar speed. If you’re really on a shoestring budget, coach travel is a more affordable and lower-carbon way to cross Europe than train, something made easier, and more comfortable, by the meteoric recent rise of the Flixbus network. Yearning for a villa holiday in Greece, we opted to travel in the October half term, meaning cheaper fares than those in midsummer but also a reduced number of possible routes. Travelling from London to Brindisi by train – via Paris, Zurich and Milan – we then took a ferry from Brindisi to Igoumenitsa and another across to Corfu. Leaving London in late afternoon and stopping overnight in Paris and Milan (on the way back an overnight bus worked better), the transport cost £200 and took 60 hours each way (though it’s do-able in just over 48 in high summer, when more services are operating). As a comparison, a return flight from the UK to Corfu takes around 5.5 hours, including check-in time, and costs between £150 and £300 return, including hold baggage and fees. It’s hard to see Pontikonisi’s herons when you’re up at 30,000 feet though. Nor taste the buttery crackle of an oven-warm Parisian croissant, plunge into the yodel-inducing cool of a Swiss lake (as we did between trains in Zurich), hear the polyphonic tooting of rush hour drivers in the centre of Milan, or watch the Pindus mountains appear through the sea-misted dawn from the deck of an overnight ferry. HOW SHE DID IT Eurostar London to Paris £78 return ( eurostar.com ). Trains between Paris and Brindisi via Switzerland £80 one-way ( thetrainline.com ). Ferries from Brindisi to Corfu via Igoumenitsa, including a cabin one-way, £144 return ( directferries.co.uk ). Train from Brindisi to Turin £70 one-way ( thetrainline.com ). Coach from Turin to Paris £28.99 one-way ( flixbus.co.uk ). WHERE SHE STAYED Villa Icarus (sleeps 2-8) costs from £300 per night (minimum stay four nights). Like sister company Sunvil Holidays, GIC Villas now offer package holidays including accommodation and overland travel ( gicthevillacollection.com ). HOW MUCH CARBON SHE SAVED Return train between London and Brindisi via Switzerland 106.6kg. It's difficult to find exact emissions from the ferry via Igoumenitsa to Corfu but directferries.co.uk gives 7kg each way (based on similar journey - though direct - by ferry between Bari and Corfu), so total for the overland trip is 120.6kg. Return flight London to Corfu 503.2kg (949.2kg if you include the climate factor) - figures from ecopassenger.org .
- The Hautes Alpes - the other side of the mountain
Richard Hammond and his family take the train to a lesser-known region of the French Alps to try out a series of outdoor mountain adventure activities. Waterfall at Refuge Tourmond. Photo : Richard Hammond A week of outdoor adventure activities in the Hautes Alpes. Photos: Richard Hammond Clinging to a rope over the edge of a steep-sided gorge, it occurred to me that I didn’t really know the person I’d trusted my life to. Bernard – a local French high mountain guide – looked like he knew what he was doing, but in those fleeting moments before I let go of the rope he’d slung up with a series of carabiners, I couldn’t help questioning his credentials. His wife, Sally, told me that morning he’d been a professional high mountain guide for years, and she was now giving me an enthusiastic thumbs-up from the ground, after belaying down herself. Then my son, who was desperate to give it a go, yelled: “Just go for it Dad!” Banishing all negative thoughts, I kicked out my legs and off I went, dropping gently down to the ground 100 feet below as Bernard gradually released the abseil rope. My son soon followed suit without a moment’s hesitation, his face blushing with the exhilaration and confidence of youth. Watch our video of our week in the Hautes Alpes: The belay was the exit point of our morning’s Via Ferrata in the Gorges d'Agnielles in the Southern French Alps. Via Ferrata is a type of climbing where a series of metal rails are bolted into the mountain rock, which you clip into and use as a safety line throughout the route. Sally (who runs Undiscovered Mountains, the activity holiday company we’d booked through) explained that Via Ferrata had been installed by the Italians in the First World War to make it quicker for its troops to travel more efficiently across high mountains, but in France it has since been adopted as a sport, designed so that many of the routes go to scenic places. The scene of Gorges d'Agnielles was certainly that; even though this was a family-friendly beginner’s course, it ran across a tall vertiginous ledge at times 300 feet above the road below, flanked by the impressive limestone cliffs. Branching out We’d come to the Southern French Alps because we wanted to travel by train from the UK to go on an outdoor adventure that was off the beaten track. The Hautes Alpes is home to the popular ski resort of Serre Chevalier but mostly it’s a little visited part of the Alps for British travellers. After taking the Eurostar, we had a night in Paris then took the morning high speed train to Valence where we caught the train to Gap to stay for the first few nights at La Grange des Écrins, a guesthouse in the valley, before heading higher, to two mountain refuges. Écrins (also the name of the surrounding National Park) means jewel and the guesthouse lives up to its name, with gem-coloured textiles, a pool with a view and grounds that run, bucolically, through meadows to a woodland stream. Run by Frenchman Jean Mellot and his Taiwanese wife, Meg Liu, this ancient farmhouse is catering to growing numbers of visitors wanting to connect with nature. “Agriculture is dying and the golden years of winter tourism are gone,” says Jean, softly. “Climate change and the waning popularity of skiing means the Alpine valleys have to find new opportunities”. Green tourism is an obvious one, he adds. “We have good weather here and we didn’t damage the landscape with huge ski resorts.” Gastrotourism is another, I think, as Meg plies us with course after delicious course, blending her Taiwanese influences with a menu that starts with delicate spring rolls and continues with pink lamb chops from nearby Ancelle. Meg’s delicious food also provided much needed fuel for a series of outdoor mountain activities we took part in the coming few days, including canyoning in the Marmites du Diable, mountain biking around Ancelle, and white-water rafting on the Durance, each one led by professional guides selected by Undiscovered Mountains. For the final two nights, Bernard took us on a different kind of outdoor adventure, this one less about adrenalin, it was designed to introduce us to the experience of walking in the mountain landscape. We hiked up to two mountain refuges – Refuge du Tourond and Gite de l’Ecole in Dormillouse – said to be the sole permanently inhabited village within a French National Park that’s only accessible on foot. The treks took us up alongside fast flowing rivers, through larch forests, past beautiful wildflowers, and several breath-taking waterfalls as Bernard gave us an introduction to the wildlife and geology of the region, pointing out yellowhammers, narcissi, orchids, wild pansies and cowslip. It’s a beautiful part of the Alps, but the really striking thing is how untramelled this landscape is. Besides the rocky track we followed and the odd stone wall, there was little sign of human impact. We were grateful to have Bernard on hand to point out things we’d missed on our own. Sally explained that it is possible to organise the refuges and activities independently, but if you book the activities through her company Undiscovered Mountains, you get an itinerary tailored to your ability and experience. Faced with the alternative of seeking out a mountain guide somewhat randomly on the internet, I know who I’d choose. == Richard’s trip was organised by Undiscovered Mountains ( undiscoveredmountains.com ) with travel and accommodation provided by Hautes Alpes tourist board ( hautes-alpes.net ). Richard and family travelled on Eurostar to Paris and then by TGV to Briancon, and returned on the night train from Briancon to Paris, then Eurostar to London. Richard had full editorial control of this review, which has been written in his own words based on his experience of visiting the Hautes Alpes in June 2024. All opinions are the authors’ own. A fully customisable seven-day summer multi activity holiday organised by Undiscovered Mountains costs from €518 per adult and €474 per child, including 10 activity points per person exchangeable for a range of activities, a choice of accommodation (including camping, luxury chalet with private hot tub, farmhouse bed and breakfast, chalet style youth hostel or hotel to suit your budget) and a personalised App with all your trip details, unique itinerary, and practical information. Richard and family travelled by Eurostar from London to Paris, train from Paris to Gap, return journey on the sleeper train from Gap to Paris then Eurostar Paris to London.
- Conservation, culture and commitment in action in Belize
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani sees how community, conservation and cultural preservation go hand-in-hand in this beautiful Central American country There’s a bird tower in Belize, in the middle of the Caribbean Sea where there’s a sight that even the least twitchy birdwatcher will be interested in. On Half Moon Caye (also known as Half Moon Caye Natural Monument) in Lighthouse Reef Atoll, the island’s famous frigate birds gather and when it’s mating season, which it was, the males puff out their throats so much that they form large red pouches. When they fly, it looks like they’re transporting emergency medical equipment. And it’s not just the frigates. Also resident here (for 10 months of the year) are the caye’s red-footed boobies, the reason this tiny island became a protected area. Half Moon Caye is the first marine protected area in Central America, designated a bird sanctuary in 1924 to protect the habitat of the red-footed booby birds. The Belize Audubon Society, a bird and habitat protection organisation, co-manages Half Moon Caye, alongside six other protected areas in Belize including the birdwatching haven of Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary and the jaguar preserve of Cockscomb Basin. Half Moon Caye is more than the caye’s red-footed boobies and frigates though. Hundreds of hermit crabs scurry about the forest floor, in a Goldilocks-attempt to find the perfect shell and if you’ve a keen eye, you may spot iguanas, and if you’re lucky, hawksbill, green and loggerhead turtles in season too. The nature trail along this tiny, crescent-shaped island leads to a small, sunset-view beach, where the Caribbean unfolds in front of you as you ponder the meaning of life or frigate birds. Earlier, I’d barefoot-walked the Calabash Caye Nature Trail, an easy walk through the interior of Calabash Caye, a Turneffe Atoll island. I’m guided by Eldon August, a tourism conservation officer from Turneffe Atoll Sustainability Association, known as TASA, which works with marine protection organisations BlueWild EcoVentures and Blue Alliance to protect Turneffe and promote the ‘blue economy’. Eldon has been working for TASA for two years and is enthusiastic about his prospects in conservation. As we walk and talk, he tells me about the importance of the mangrove ecosystem for flood protection and providing a haven for juvenile species, to the seaweed farms offering alternative livelihoods to fishermen with its beauty and health benefits (‘mariculture’). I learn about the gumbo limbo tree - it’s called the ’tourist tree’ because of its peeling skin exterior (a timely reminder to re-apply sun cream) and that it’s an antidote to the sometimes-neighbouring poisonwood tree. Our walk leads us across the hammock bridge and to the trail’s bird tower. I don’t think I’d ever taken in such a sight. As I turn my head, I’m treated to a 360-degree view of miles of mangroves, broken up only by the blue hues of the Caribbean Sea. Seeing something with your own eyes reinforces what you’ve just learnt, and you realise just how important it is to protect it. Before snorkelling the Calabash Caye Snorkel Trail, we pay an underwater visit to the seaweed farm. That morning, I’d seen the seaweed at a later stage, laid out on drying racks until crunchy; down here, it’s a grid system of nets and poles, frequently checked by TASA. The snorkel trail itself is only around 300 metres long, but as any snorkeller or diver will tell you, time takes on new meaning underwater - before you know it, you’ve been drifting for an hour. A shoal of blue tang swims our way, and corals sway and shimmer below us. I realise we’ve barely seen anyone else during the day. “We’re about high-value, low-impact,” says Eldon. “We never have two groups at the same time. If, say Blackbird Resort has a group going to one dive spot, no-one else goes that day.” Blackbird Caye Resort where I’m staying on Turneffe Atoll, has developed a close partnership with TASA. One evening, over Belikin beers, Panty Rippa cocktails and mini pizzas during the daily, convivial pre-dinner bar ritual, Eldon shares more about their work, looking after Belize's largest marine protected area of some 36,000 acres. Many fishermen wanted the atoll to be protected, he says, but because of tourism, it’s difficult to have off-limits areas. Instead, “Enforcement is the backbone of our organisation,” he tells us, with strict rules and high fines for illegal fishing. They have 16 conservation officers and three conservation outposts, and work two-week shifts with six days off. 100% of donations they receive support their wildlife conservation work and community initiatives. Conservation goes beyond marine areas. On the mainland, one of the most visited national parks is Cockscombe Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, the world’s first jaguar preserve, stretching from the Maya Mountains to the Caribbean Sea. In 1986, Cockscombe was declared a nature reserve and thanks to conservation efforts, the sanctuary now has some of Belize’s best jungle treks, a lush habitat of towering ferns and palms, a healthy if elusive jaguar population, plenty of birdlife including keel-billed toucans and king vultures, and resident ocelots, tapir, monkeys and more. Co-managed by the Belize Audubon Society, the sanctuary also collaborates with the Maya Centre Village visitor centre and gift shop; the community receives 10% of park revenue. Righting past land ownership wrongs isn’t easy - when Maya residents were first re-located from Cockscomb, many were against it. At nearby Bocawina Mayflower National Park, there’s a different story where a foreign-owned adventure resort remained, while Indigenous communities had to leave the Cockscomb Basin region. My guide Dirk points out plantain and coconut farms on our drive to Bocawina. “When you see plantain in forest, it's secondary growth forest,” he tells us. “It's regenerating.” In fact, almost 40% of Belize’s land is protected in some way, partly thanks to co-management. A keen birdwatcher (and member of Dangriga-based band, The Garifuna Collective), multi-talented Dirk is a knowledgeable guide. He spots an orange-billed sparrow, a ‘deep forest’ species, explains that the red ribbons mark a carbon data trail, and points out the cohune palm, the first tree to grow when a forest is cleared, outgrowing others. “It’s a ‘give-and-take-palm’,” he says. “It pricks you, but the sap inside is an antidote.” Obviously, I touch it. He looks down as much as up, and on the forest floor, we spot a train of leaf cutter ants, capable of carrying ten times their own body weight, transporting leaves in a high-level logistics operation. We hear the thunderous sound of howler monkeys in the distance, and after a straightforward but sweaty hike, I cool off in a waterfall pool. In northern Belize, the majestic Maya temples of Lamanai, right on the New River, highlight another type of conservation, that of cultural heritage. My guide Eduardo Ruano has Maya heritage and comes from a family of former Guatemalan refugees fleeing civil war in the 1980s. He grew up in neighbouring Indian Church village, created in 1990 when communities were moved out of Lamanai. “Indian Church has guesthouses, restaurants, a women’s cooperative, Las Orquideas, and you can eat local Belizean dishes here,” Eduardo says. It’s not on enough itineraries with many tourists whisked to and from the temple complex. Set deep in the jungle, Lamanai is also a wildlife haven, especially for birds. The howler monkeys are also out as we explore the Jaguar Temple and High Temple in the late afternoon. Revenue from tourism funds preservation, but grassroots community engagement is sometimes missing when it comes to big-ticket sights. Time and time again, you realise why community, conservation and cultural preservation go hand-in-hand and that this holistic approach is crucial, whether a marine reserve or an archaeological treasure.
- Where food culture meets community tourism in Belize
As part of our Greentraveller's Guide to Belize , Meera Dattani tastes a range of hyper-local food provided by local communities. Miss Cecila Ack is sitting at the bus stop in the Belizean beach town of Placencia with a cool box on her lap. Inside are tamales, the Mesoamerican dish made from Masa, a traditional dough from nixtamalized (more on that later) corn, filled with meat, cheese or beans, then steamed and wrapped in banana or plantain leaves. “She comes here every week – she takes the Hokey Pokey water taxi from Mango Creek village to sell tamales and handmade corn tortillas in Placencia,” my food tour guide Dr Lyra Spang tells me. “It’s the real deal, from a traditional Maya recipe.” Deliveroo, eat your heart out. This is my kind of food tour and Lyra Spang is no ordinary guide. She’s a thinker, innovator and author who’s long been involved in disseminating how Belize’s diverse cuisines have evolved out of a country that, as she says in her book Bite Yu Funga! Innovating Belizean Cuisine , was “initially created as a colonial logging camp". With a population of approximately 400,000, Belize is relatively small (it’s the least populated country in Central America), but there’s a wide mix of cultures including Mestizo (Spanish Indian), Kriol (African European), Maya, Garifuna (Black Caribbean), Chinese, East Indian and European – Punta Gorda in southern Toledo district is one of the best examples of this cultural diversity. Lyra set up Taste Belize in 2014 to celebrate the range and quality of local cuisine – she has a shop in Placencia selling 100% Belizean goods where I taste Belize-grown chocolate, and a food and cultural tours outfit. Given the inevitable mix of cultural influence on local food, Lyra is keen that visitors should keep an open mind over what is traditional food; “Who's saying, 'This or that is Belizean food’?” she questions. The most interesting food is usually cooked in people’s homes, which is why Miss Cecila’s tamales (also known as bollos) are so good. We head to streetside restaurant Carmen’s Kitchen where we unwrap the tamales, and buy puffed, fried corn tortillas called ‘Salbutes’ and delicious pork tacos. The tamales are filled with recado-spiced (local spice blend) beans and meat, and the texture chewier as the dough isn’t pre-cooked. All of it begs for seconds. At Miss Geneva’s Fine Foods, another Placencia roadside restaurant, we try Kriol rice and beans, an all-in-one dish, with meat or fish cooked in a sauce. It’s different to beans and rice (sometimes ‘rice and gravy’) where they’re separate, beans are saucier, and the meat/fish is often fried. Miss Geneva also makes her own coconut milk; a security guard who works nearby heads here around 5am after his night shift to grate it for her. We finish at Barefoot Beach Bar, set up by two Belizean sisters who’ve created a warm, welcoming vibe. One bartender has been there for 12 years, Lyra says. Their bitters from local herbs are a Barefoot specialty; woody, easy on the palate, and nicely paired with fried breadfruit and smoked fish dip. Later, I head to neighbouring Tipsy Tuna, another beach bar, also Belizean-owned and operated, where after a day of local food, I submit to their chicken wings special. Hopkins village, north of Placencia, is considered the cultural centre of the Garifuna, descendants of an Afro-Indigenous people from St Vincent, exiled in the 18th century to Honduras before moving to Belize. The Garifuna Cultural Immersion Tour organised by Hopkins UnCut starts with a drumming session with the Lebeha drummers, followed by a cooking lesson with resident chef Kenima Williams. It's interactive and I (happily) sing for my supper. Kenima teaches me to grate coconut from the husk using a grater clamped to the table, before squeezing out the milk. I learn to make hudut, a coconut milk soup with onions, peppers, herbs, chillies and fish, served with mashed ripe plantain, which I squash down using a pole-sized pestle into a mortar on the ground. It’s delicious. These experiences show Belize’s story in a way that’s so engaging you don't realise you're also getting a history lesson. In northern Belize, near Orange Walk Town, I visit the Mennonite community of Indian Creek with my guide Eduardo Ruano. Cornelius and Anna Schmitt welcome us to their home and Cornelius takes us on a horse-and-buggy tour (no motorised vehicles here) of this community, his farmland, local church, and the store. It’s an insight into a culture often perceived as closed, but like any community of thousands of people, there’s a spectrum. Some Mennonites are stricter; some use electricity and drink alcohol; others don’t have electricity. It's a practical, outdoors life. Things are made, fixed, farmed, cooked from scratch. When we sit down to lunch to enjoy Anna’s feast of chicken schnitzel, picked vegetables, mashed potatoes and delicious salads, there’s a palpable sense of joy and satisfaction at the table. Breaking bread has always been a way of connecting with people. About 40 miles north on the New River in northern Belize, upriver from Lamanai's Maya temple complex, tour guide Manuel Novelo enthusiastically welcomes me to his hometown of Orange Walk Town. Home to Mestizo, Kriol, Mennonite, and East/South Asian communities, it’s an industrious place, known as ‘Sugar City’ for its sugar production, and host of an annual TacoFest. Manuel shares its history from Maya settlement, Holpatin, to a colonial logging hub through to now. "I've lived here my whole life," he says. "My uncle lives over there, cousins here, my grandchildren over there," he gestures around us. Our morning tour ends at Chengs Tacos De Cochinita, effectively the kitchen and front yard of husband-and-wife team Cheng and Yanira, where we dive into homemade tacos, tortillas and juices on a shared table. Manuel knows everyone who rocks up to collect a delivery, including the town's mayor. “Although we're famous for tacos, the best ones are by the roadside, not the restaurants,” says Manuel. Hyper-local is always a winner. On the outskirts of San Ignacio, the gateway town for western Belize, is the San Antonio Women’s Cooperative. A grassroots organisation, it was created by local Maya women. “We wanted to promote our culture and empower young girls,” Timotea Mesh, one of its founders, says. Here, elders speak in Maya, traditions are honoured, and medicinal plants are the first port-of-call. With Timotea, I learn more about the heart and soul of Maya food: Corn. She explains the nixtamalisation process used by the ancient Maya to make corn kernels less acidic, using limestone powder. Grinding kernels into a smooth wet dough is tough, then we flatten and shape them into round tortillas; it reminds me of making round chapatis (rotli) as a young South Asian girl - and never quite nailing it. I watch Timotea cook them on the hot griddle, the fire crackling below; hers rise perfectly, forming an airy pocket. Mine remain flat. After learning about Maya pottery techniques and visiting their gift shop for local souvenirs, I rejoin Timotea for lunch and tuck into one of the tastiest meals I’ve enjoyed in Belize with homemade tortillas, fried plantain with a sweet tamarind marinade, chaya (a type of spinach) and a garden-fresh salad. As I eat the last tortilla under the thatched hut, I think back to a conversation with Lyra Spang. “We need to make sure people get a chance to represent their own culture,” she’d told me. “There are dishes disappearing and only a few old women know how to make them. Done the right way, food tourism encourages people to hold onto their cultural skills.” For nearby places to stay, local attractions and a range of outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize
- Natural & Cultural Heritage in the Balearic Islands
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Richard Hammond provides an overview of the opportunities to see nature, a range of landscapes and heritage in the Balearic Islands of Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza and Formentera Waking up at a finca in the rural north of Ibiza, the world felt at peace. Above the low-level chirping of cicadas, I could hear a bee buzzing outside my window, birds were calling out to each other, and there was a distant sound of another guest swimming in the resort’s natural pool. The tranquillity was a world away from the nightclubs and crowded beaches so often associated with this party island. Yet I should have expected it; Ibiza, and indeed the other islands of the Balearics, all have areas of great natural beauty, and over the past 30 years have built up international recognition for their efforts to protect these natural assets. Pride of place in the Balearics are the clear turquoise waters of Ibiza and its neighbouring island Formentera, which are thanks to the protected meadows of the large seagrass oceanic Posidonia that lie on the seabed. Some 8km long and over 100,000 years old, the seagrass cleans the water and adds in oxygen to create a thriving environment and is found only in the Mediterranean. This underground forest, designated as the Marine Reserve des Freus, stretching from Ses Salines beach (Ibiza) to Es Freus (Formentera), has been granted World Heritage status by UNESCO. Numerous marine species use these underwater forests as a haven for mating and laying their eggs, so marine life thrives, which means the waters around these islands are rewarding snorkel and dive sites. Sea turtles pass through these waters on their long journey to Mexico, and the nearby lagoons of Ses Salines Nature Park, which protects both the land and the sea, is home to over 200 species of migratory birds, including flamingos and black-necked storks. Among a series of measures designed to protect this one-of-a-kind organism (some of which have been implemented thanks to money raised from the islands tourism tax), an app has been created so that yachts can avoid anchoring on protected zones and fines have been imposed for anyone falling foul of the law on this. It’s not only the environment that is being afford protection – this year is the 25th anniversary of Ibiza’s recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its cultural and architectural value. The island’s treasures include one of the best-preserved coastal fortresses in the Mediterranean, Dalt Vila’s acropolis; the Phoenician remains of Sa Caleta and its Carthaginian tombs. Dalt Vila specifically is home to the first contemporary art museum in Spain. UNESCO’s recognition extends to the other islands in the Balearics. Last year, Menorca celebrated its 30th anniversary as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the largest marine biosphere reserve in the Mediterranean. Home to nearly 220 species of birds and 1,000 species of plants, 60 of which are endemic to this northernmost island of the Balearic archipelago, Menorca has remarkable diversity of flora and fauna. Keep an eye out for the ‘Menorca Biosphere Reserve’ logo awarded to those businesses that are committed to sustainable practices by generating positive environmental, cultural and social impact. In particular, visitors to Menorca are being encouraged to explore the island’s unspoiled rural countryside on foot, horseback or by bicycle. The Camí de Cavalls, a historic path circumnavigating the entire coastline, has been improved in recent years with new footpaths and stone hedges to make Menorca’s impressive scenery more accessible to visitors. Twenty maritime routes have also been created to showcase points of heritage interest, including old fishermen’s huts, underwater caves and shipwrecks. In addition, last September, Talayotic Menorca was officially listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as an important cultural destination. Its funerary naves, circular houses as well as structures such as taulas and talayots are considered by UNESCO to be an exceptional example of Cyclopean architecture and of its evolution over fifteen hundred years as well as an important source of knowledge about the life of the Talayotic people, the Bronze Age and Iron Age. Two other sites in the Balearic Islands have been recognised by UNESCO. Mallorca’s Serra de Tramuntana mountain range is a World Heritage Site, covering an area of over 60,000 hectares, it includes picturesque towns such as Sóller, Fornalutx, Deià, and Valldemossa and has become a mecca for hiking and cycle tourism (see outdoor adventure activities in Spain). Formerly an animal shelter, Ses Porqueres de Galatzó (above) has been transformed into an environmentally-friendly mountain hut for hikers in the Serra de Tramuntana thanks to funds raised by the sustainable tourism tax. The modern hikers refuge lies on the picturesque Dry Stone Route, close to hiking paths which run through the pine forest and olive groves. The hut has 52 beds divided between 12 rooms as well as a kitchen, dining rooms and a multifunctional room for educational and cultural activities. In addition, the Song of Sybil has been recognised by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage. The song, which dates back to medieval times, is performed on Christmas Eve throughout the island, including at the Sanctuary of Lluc and in Palma’s cathedral. == More information on the sustainable tourism tax and the projects it funds: www.sustainableislands.travel For more ideas of where to visit in Spain, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain
- How to travel overland from the UK to Nouvelle-Aquitaine
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , here's our guide to how to travel flight-free to this beautiful region in France. There are lots of ways to travel overland to Nouvelle-Aquitaine from the UK whether you want to travel by train, coach, car, or ferry from southern England. Thanks to the introduction of L'Océane high-speed rail link, it's just 2 hours by train to Bordeaux from Paris, so you can easily get there in a day from London via Eurostar. Other cities in Nouvelle-Aquitaine are also well connected to Paris by train and coach. If you're travelling on foot, then on arrival at many of the ports and railway stations in Paris, there are plenty of options for onward travel by rail and bus to Nouvelle Aquitaine. It's also about four hours drive from the ferry ports of Northern France. For those who want to drive in an electric car, there are charging points at Eurotunnel, and for your onward journey in France, the good news is that there's currently a huge expansion of charging facilities underway throughout the country. Less Carbon, More Fun! Photos left to right: Train: Eurostar, Ferry: Brittany Ferries; Surfing: Federation Francaise de Surf/JUSTES @CRTNA; Family boating in Marais Poitevin, known as 'Green Venice': Mathieu Anglada @CRTNA By train from the UK to Nouvelle-Aquitaine It is easy to travel by train to Nouvelle-Aquitaine in a day from the UK. The fastest route is to take the Eurostar from London St Pancras International Railway Station to Gare du Nord in the French capital Paris (2 hours 16 mins) and then cross Paris to take the high speed train from either Gare Montparnasse or Gare Austerlitz, depending on whereabouts you want to go to in Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Head to Montparnasse for high-speed TGV trains to Poitiers (1 hour 18 mins), Angoulême (1 hour 43 mins), Niort (1 hour 45 mins), Bordeaux (2 hours), La Rochelle (2 hours 26 mins), and Bayonne (3 hours 53 mins), and Pau (4 hours 9 mins), as well as for Ouigo services to Agen (3 hours 12 mins), and to Austerlitz for the slower regional TER intercity trains to cities such as Limoges (3 hours 26 mins) and Brive (4 hours 36 mins). It's also possible to travel by train from Lille to Nouvelle-Aquitaine in 4 hours 30 mins - handy if you prefer not to cross Paris; in Lille you change on to a train in the same station as the one you arrive in to on Eurostar from London. If you're not used to take the metro in Paris, transferring train stations may seem daunting but the connections are pretty seamless – s ee How to transfer between train stations across Paris . Train tickets provided by Trainline: Photos, Left: Eurostar at St Pancras, London: Richard Hammond. Centre: Eurostar travelling through southern England en route to the Channel Tunnel. Right: Eurostar's route map. Stopover hotels to break the journey in Paris If you want to break the journey and stay overnight to see a bit more of Paris while you're travelling through, there are lots of lovely places to stay conveniently near the Eurostar arrival station in Gare du Nord (after you arrive on Eurostar) or near Gare Montparnasse (for your departure to Bordeaux) or Gare Austerlitz (for your departure to other cities in Nouvelle-Aquitaine). Hotels near Gare du Nord: By Coach from the UK to Nouvelle-Aquitaine The major coach operators from the UK to France are Flixbus and BlaBlaCarBus , which run services from London Victoria Coach Station to Paris Gare de Bercy Seine via one of the Dover-Calais ferry services. Flixbus and National Express runs coaches from most major cities in the UK to London for you to transfer to the international service to France. By Ferry from the UK to Nouvelle-Aquitaine The modernisation of ferry services has revolutionised the experience of travelling across the English Channel. Especially for longer overnight crossings to the continent where you can travel in style on spacious ships, enjoy fine dining in la carte restaurants, spa treatment rooms, and comfortable en suite cabins, so on arrival you feel refreshed for the onward journey. There are also plenty of facilities to keep children entertained during the crossing, including soft play areas, games rooms, live entertainment and cinema. Europe has never felt closer. Photos: left to right: Interiors show on board a DFDS Seaways ferry; exterior: Brittany Ferries There are several operators that run ferries from southern England to northern France that cater for foot passengers. The ports on both sides of the crossing are well connected by public transport, so it’s easy to travel by bus or train to the ports in the UK, as well as disembark on the other side and continue the journey overland. One of the easiest crossings on foot is to go from Newhaven to Dieppe because there's such an easy transfer from the railway station in Newhaven on to the ferry. On arrival in Dieppe, you can either walk about 25 minutes to the railway station or there's a shuttle bus that can take you there. If you prefer to travel from elsewhere on the south coast of England, there are departures from Dover, Poole, Portsmouth and Plymouth with a variety of operators. For detailed information to how to take public transport to the UK's ferry ports, see Green Traveller's Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . The main ferry services from the south of England to northern France are as follows: Dover Dover to Calais: 5 sailings per day (for foot passengers) with P&O Ferries NB. although there are also sailings from Dover to Calais with DFDS Seaways (10 sailings per day), and Irish Ferries (4 sailings per day) they do not allow foot passengers. NB. There is also a ferry from Dover to Dunkirk (12 sailings per day with DFDS Seaways) but it is not available for foot passengers. Tickets provided by P&O Ferries. NB. when you book a ticket, the vehicle page is automatically populated to show a car, to change this to foot passenger select 'edit', and then from the drop down vehicle menu select 'Foot Passenger'. Select 'save' and then 'show times'. Newhaven to Dieppe 21 crossings per week with DFDS Seaways Portsmouth to Caen, Cherbourg or St Malo Portsmouth to Caen: 3 sailings per day with Brittany Ferries Portsmouth to Cherbourg: 1 per week with Brittany Ferries Portsmouth to St Malo: 1 per day with Brittany Ferries Ferry tickets provided by Brittany Ferries ( NB. To book as a foot passenger , choose the ' on foot' option from the vehicle selection drop-down selection on step 1 of the ferry booking process) : Poole to Cherbourg 1 sailing per day with Brittany Ferries Ferry tickets provided by Brittany Ferries ( NB. To book as a foot passenger , choose the ' on foot' option from the vehicle selection drop-down selection on step 1 of the ferry booking process) : Plymouth to Roscoff 1 sailing per day with Brittany Ferries Ferry tickets provided by Brittany Ferries ( NB. To book as a foot passenger , choose the ' on foot' option from the vehicle selection drop-down selection on step 1 of the ferry booking process) : Onward journeys by public transport from France's ferry ports When you disembark from the ferry there are plenty of local public transport services for onward travel. For step-by-step instructions for how to transfer from the ferry on to local services at all the major arrival ports in France, see our Guide to travelling as a foot passenger from the UK to Europe . By car from the UK to France Cars can be taken on all the major ferry routes described in the foot passenger section above, as well as the Dover to Calais route run by DFDS and Irish Ferries (neither take foot passengers on this route). Driving electric cars from the UK to France You can also take an electric car on the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle - there are rapid chargers for universal electric and hybrid cars, as well as dedicated Tesla chargers, at both terminals so you can recharge before you head through the tunnel on either side. Electric car hire: There has been a huge increase in the production of electric cars in recent years and many of the large car rental companies, such as Enterprise, Avis, Europcar, and SIXT now hire electric cars in France, see: Enterprise: https://www.enterprise.co.uk/en/car-hire/vehicles/fr/cars/electric.html Avis: https://www.avis.co.uk/drive-avis/fleet/prestige/uk/Electric Europcar: https://www.europcar.co.uk/en-gb/p/car-rental/fleet/type/electric SIXT: https://www.sixt.com/magazine/fleet/electric-cars-pros-and-cons Do make sure you hire a car that has the appropriate mileage per battery that’s relevant for your use. Public charging networks provide a mixture of slow, fast and rapid charging points operated by either a national or regional network, so do check the location of the charging points as well as the charging time and payment methods. The car hire company may be able to advise on this when you hire the car – some may have arrangements with energy partners and can provide you with a charge card that you can use at a number of locations in France. Charging electric vehicles in France Electric vehicle (EV) charging networks are expanding very quickly across France. As in the UK there are different companies providing chargers, but the market is much more fragmented on the continent – if you think it’s complicated in the UK, in France and across Europe there is a bewildering number of providers. In most cases, you need to log in using a network RFID card, a key fob or an app, some of which need to be pre-loaded with funds. Chargers that accept a contactless debit or credit card are still not widespread. Thankfully, there are aggregators who can provide an RFID card that works on several different networks, reducing the number of cards or apps you need to obtain. As in the UK, there are chargers at many motorway service areas and are also generally found where cars are likely to be parked for a while, such as supermarkets, shopping centre car parks, hotels and tourist attractions. The Automobile Association has a handy guide to recharging in Europe, including the latest information on the charging networks in France and breakdown cover for electric vehicles in Europe. The situation is changing rapidly, so it’s always worth checking the AA’s website again just before you embark on a journey in Europe. Also, keep an eye on the website zap-map.com for the latest news about electric vehicles and the expansion of charging networks throughout the continent. ============ Please note : The information on this page aims to give you a reasonable idea of train and ferry routes, times and tickets, in order that hopefully there’s enough detail to know what's available, how to plan an overland journey to Nouvelle-Aquitaine and where to book tickets. The information was up to date at time of publication, but services do change from time to time and we cannot take responsibility for any errors or inaccuracies we provide. Always confirm details when you book with the relevant travel operator. If you are aware of any inaccuracies, we'd really appreciate being informed via our contact page so we can make the relevant changes to the information provided for the benefit of other travellers. Bon Voyage! For characterful places to stay, where to find delicious seasonal food, places of interest and outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle Aquitaine
- Places to stay in Nouvelle-Aquitaine
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine , we've picked out a selection of places to stay across this beautiful part of southwest France. Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Firstname Bordeaux A 147-room hotel in the Mériadeck neighbourhood from where it's a 15-minute walk to the city's main attractions, and about 20 minutes tram and walk from Saint Jean railway station. Between the 1960s and the 1980s this neglected corner of the city became a testing ground for some of the brightest modern architects of the time. Among the showstoppers they created was a concrete colossus with striking curvilinear balconies designed by Arretche-Karasinki and Marcel Nouviale for French insurance company Allianz. A super-sized example of upcycling, the building was recently repurposed as a hotel with chic, contemporary flair. Inside its brutalist exterior hides a serene, colourful space that welcomes guests in with clever lighting, lounge-on-me seating, a communal kitchen (so no need for energy intensive mini bars) and natural materials (each room has a bag of charcoal to purify the air). firstname.com/fr/hotels/bordeaux Grand Hotel Francais, Bordeaux A former 18th Century mansion on the historic rue du Temple in downtown Bordeaux, a few steps from the magnificent Saint-André Cathedral, about 20 minutes tram and walk from Saint Jean railway station. Behind its historic facade is a modern, vibrant Best Western 3-star hotel with 35 smart, unfussy rooms, an elaborate cocktail bar 'Bar Casa' ("inspired by the great artists of illusionism"), and buffet breakfast. It was the first hotel in Bordeaux to be awarded the European Ecolabel (in 2010) and subsequently has received La Clef Verte eco label for its commitment to reducing its impact on the environment with a range of eco initiatives throughout the hotel, such as low energy lighting, organic and Fair Trade products at breakfast, including honey from a bee hive it sponsors on the hillsides of Bourg-sur-Gironde. There's also a library of green-minded literature for guests. grand-hotel-francais.com Domaine Saint-Amand, Dordogne Valley A large multi-lodge glamping site in the Périgord, managed by a dynamic young couple, Jeanne and Baptiste, close to the medieval village of Saint-Amand-de-Coly (officially one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages and home to a spectacular fortified abbey). We cycled there on the Flow Vélo cycle track from Sarlat (see our feature on Outdoor Adventure in Nouvelle-Aquitaine ). A grocery and outdoor pool sit beside the restored farmhouse at its heart while 50 two-bedroom wooden cabins are spaced out scenically among fields of wildflowers and newly planted trees. Beautifully crafted with restful taupe and timber interiors, chic ensuite bathrooms, private kitchens and covered terraces, the cabins make a peaceful pitstop along the Flow Vélo trail. Especially if, like us, you pick up one of Jeanne’s homemade coq au vin or happen to visit on a night when the wood-fired pizza oven is being fired up. domainesaintamand.com La Maison des Etoiles, Dordogne Valley Close to Collonges la Rouge (officially one of the 'most beautiful villages in France' and on the route Saint Jacques de Compostelle), La Maison des Etoiles is a lovely hamlet of gites opposite Turenne in Corrèze, about an hour and half's cycle from Brive. There are several options for accommodation: a large communal house (Casastelle) for up to 11 people (great for groups, sleeping in a large common room surrounded by 11 beds), a house (La Grand Ourse) for up to 10 people, a cottage (Cassiopée) for 2 to 4 people, and for those wanting to admire the night sky from your bed, Domostella is a room-with-a-view, glass domed cabin for two people, where you can have breakfast on a little terrace facing the Turenne Castle. If you can stir yourself from the back-to-nature idyll, there are plenty of outdoor activities nearby, including mountain biking, climbing, via ferrata, horse-riding, canoeing and canyoning. lamaisondesetoiles.fr Hotel La Réserve, Biarritz- Pays Basque A peaceful 4-star 41-room hotel within seven acres of lawned gardens perched on the cliff overlooking the Atlantic, a mile from the railway station in St Jean de Luz – just far enough to escape the hustle and bustle of this popular seaside town, but close enough to walk to, including to its famous sandy beach. The hotel's Ilura outdoor restaurant specialises in using local ingredients to prepare Basque dishes, the Elaia Lounge serves simpler salads and sandwiches in the garden by the large infinity pool, while the Lounge Bar is the place to go for a drink and tapas in a cosy indoor sanctuary. hotel-lareserve.com Domaine de Bassilour, Biarritz- Pays Basque Three kilometres from Biarritz, in a 16-hectare park, Domaine de Bassilour is a small independent hotel that consists of rooms and suites in three kinds of accommodation close to the town of Bidart and less than five minutes from the beaches of the Basque coast - one is on a farm, another is in a 16th Century manor house and the third is a seven-room villa, which has a heated swimming pool. The hotel has been awarded the European Ecolabel (see our guide to ecolabels and certification schemes in tourism and hospitality ) for its efforts to reduce the impact of visitor stays on the environment, including geothermal underfloor heating, hemf roof insulation, reduction in the use of plastic bottles, a raft of energy efficient mechanisms in the rooms, such as low energy lighting and a key card system for in-room electricity so that power is cut when a guest leaves the room, and sustainable agricultural practices in its gardens, including use the practice of permaculture principles and the recycling or organic waste. domainedebassilour.com Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa, Cognac Come here to spoil yourself. In the heart of Cognac, a 12-minute walk from the railway station, this 104-room luxury hotel, consisting of classic French chic rooms, suites and apartments, is home to a Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant (the only one in Cognac), brasserie, jazz bark rooftop lounge , spa, steam room and sauna. The restaurant, run by head chef Mathis Debize, focuses on regional cuisine using local ingredients, so expect dishes such as Courgette de Charente, Boeuf de Montbéliard – marinated, of course, in cognac – and blueberries from the Médoc. Exceptional. chaismonnethotel.com Watch our video of Nouvelle-Aquitaine: Best Western Plus Richelieu, Limoges A popular 4-star, 46-room mansion in a pedestrianised area in the centre of Limoges. It serves a breakfast buffet and there are several excellent restaurants nearby for dinner in the centre of the city. It has been awarded the Clef Verte eco label certification and encourages to be mindful of their energy use: click on the website and you'll see a pop up message asking guests to join their approach in amending their actions during their stay to limit energy consumption. It's a 20-minute walk from the railway station and there's an electric charging station for cars. bestwestern-richelieu-limoges.com La Maison des Ambassadeurs, Atlantic Coast The first 5-star hotel in La Rochelle, La Maison des Ambassadeurs is the place to come to pamper yourself. Named after a French ambassador in the 19th Century, Albert Bodard, who considered the city his home, it's beneath the stone arches on the rue de Minage, a short walk from the vibrant old port and the historic centre of La Rochelle, and close to the city's covered market packed with local producers selling fresh vegetables, seasonal fruits and other produce from the region. The hotel's rooms (a mix of 'deluxe' rooms, 'deluxe', 'prestige' and 'family' suites) are modern yet minimalist, there's a spa, hammam, sauna and massage treatments, a gourmet restaurant serving seasonal dishes that it describes as "world cuisine enhanced by local products", a small outdoor pool and piano bar. maisondesambassadeurs.com Hotel La Villa Seren, Atlantic Coast In prime position overlooking Lake Hossegor, the 4-star Hotel La Villa Seren has 27 rooms, 2 suites and 3 family rooms with views over the popular salt lake - a nature reserve surrounded by pine forest. The hotel's spa has treatment rooms, sauna, hammam and a heated outdoor pool. The restaurant serves seasonal dishes that it says use 80% ingredients from less than 150km away, such as a harbour fish with green asparagus, and its wine bar features wines "from producers across our beautiful terroir" as well as craft beers and cocktails, such as an organic Pineau des Charentes. The lake has several sheltered beaches that are great for families and its calm waters are popular for watersports, including sailing, windsurfing, paddleboarding - there are several sailing clubs and schools for lessons and hiring equipment. villaseren.fr Hotel Thalazur Arcachon, Atlantic Coast The 124-room Hotel Thalazur Arcachon is one of 9 thalassotherapy centres across France that are part of the Thalazur brand, which specialises in wellbeing 'bien être' breaks. The setting of this one in Arcachon is unique – among an oak and pine forest just 150m from the popular Pereire beach – its decor matches the natural setting, focussing on wood and stone, with touches of rattan and cane. Many of the rooms have a balcony over the forest or the hotel garden, and guests can choose from a wide range of treatments and massages, including a sauna, hammam, jacuzzi, fitness room, and two seawater swimming pools (indoor and outdoor). The restaurant serves regional dishes, including seafood, accompanied by Bordeaux wines, and the hotel has recently been awarded the Clef Verte for its commitment to reduce its impact on the environment. thalazur.fr/arcachon/hotel Hotel Le Vieux Logis, Pyrenees A family-run 3-star 28-room hotel close to the Gave de Pau's valley about 10 miles to the west of Lourdes at the foot of the mountains of the Pyrenees. The smart modern rooms are tastefully decorated with beautiful fabrics and all have a balcony with views of the garden. Co-owner Francis is the chef and he specialises in seasonal country cooking using local products, while Marie-Pierre is on hand to advise on pairing with country wines. The Gave is popular for rafting and kayaking, and the hotel is just a kilometre from the famous Caves of Bétharram where you can descend to an 80m chasm to go on an underground boat ride among a spectacular array of stalagmites and stalactites. hotel-levieuxlogis.com Hotel Altéora Futuroscope, Poitiers Self-styled as an 'Eco-Responsible Hotel', the 3-star 294-room Hotel Altéora Futuroscope is 500m from the main entrance to the Futurescope park that's about 10 miles from Poitiers. It has been awarded the Clef Verte for its commitment to reducing the impact on the environment and also has a strong social commitment to local sustainable and responsible suppliers. It has planted over 2,000 trees in a degraded forest 30 minutes from the hotel, has installed a rooftop beehive, and has a commitment to reducing energy consumption, which has resulted in a 19% decrease in water consumption per customer, a 38% decrease in electricity consumption per customer, and 45% of unrecovered waste, as well as a raft of other initiatives, including using cooking oils in the restaurant. Futurescope is a multimedia, cinematography and audio-visual theme park with over 20 main attractions, imax cinemas, and a range of weird and wonderful rides, such as Cosmic collisions, the World of the Invisible, and Dancing with Robots - great for a day out for all the family. hotel-alteora-site-du-futuroscope.com == For nearby places to eat, sights of interest and outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine
- First Bus signs five-year partnership with Flixbus
First Bus, one of the UK’s leading bus operators and global travel tech company FlixBus, have announce a new five-year partnership, boosting daily services across the South-West of England and expanding routes in northern cities including Leeds, Manchester, and Newcastle. Andrew Jarvis, Chief Operating Officer for First Bus said: "The new partnership with FlixBus marks another significant milestone in growing the First Bus B2B operation and we’re excited to serve further regions in the UK, helping to make longer distance travel easier. "This new contract will create around 70 jobs and strengthen our national footprint as we renew our presence in the contract express coach market segment.’ Andreas Schorling, FlixBus Managing Director UK comments: "Three years ago we set out to be the market leader in the UK. We’ve experienced unprecedented passenger demand and strong commercial success, and, as we onboard operators like First Bus, market leadership is becoming inevitable. "This is a golden era for coach travel where new modern, comfortable vehicles provide an enjoyable experience that passengers love. This is a renaissance for coach travel, and we see record numbers of people trying and returning to FlixBus.” According to a KPMG report commissioned by the Confederation of Passenger Transport, coach services have a multi-billion-pound economic impact on the UK, with one additional coach visiting a destination daily generating £1 million in economic value yearly.
- Balancing tourism & conservation in Sierra Norte Natural Park
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Ginny Light learns how conservation and tourism go hand in hand in the Sierra Norte Natural Park, Guadalajara The topography, the waterfalls, the biodiversity, and the opportunities to explore - everything about the Sierra Norte is on a huge scale. Everything, that is, except the crowds. This vast and rugged mountainous area, a designated natural park in the Castilla-La Mancha area of Spain to the south of Madrid, is rarely visited by anyone outside of Madrid. I spent a day in the park with director, Rafael Ruiz López De La Cova - not nearly enough to cover the whole territory, but enough to get a taste of what it has to offer and the challenges and triumphs of managing an area on this scale. Balancing Conservation with Tourism Hiking is the foremost activity here owing to the variety of landscapes and the unceasing work of the Natural Park team to maintain the footpaths. Using sustainable materials and minimising machinery is Rafael’s priority. As we hiked the trail to the Chorreras de Despeñalagua waterfall we left behind the village of Valverde de Los Arroyos, a pristine and peaceful spot where the houses exemplify the region’s black architecture, owing to the use of locally mined slate in contrast to the terracotta and pale stone buildings typical of the area. The peaceful sound of running water accompanies this 4km return route, emanating from a stone-lined water channel that runs alongside the trail and delivers irrigation to the villages and their land thanks to the work of Rafael’s teams. Working with people and maintaining the population of the park is upmost to him. One might think that the ultimate for a natural park would be to expel humans altogether, but without farms to maintain pasture there is no grazing for herbivores on which the carnivores can be sustained (there are four known Iberian wolf groups in the park), and high mountain pasture is the most endangered habitat in Castilla-La Mancha. It would be overtaken with shrubs without grazing. Furthermore, with no people there are no businesses to sustain tourism, without which the park is not economically viable. “It's a human desert,” he says. The population density of Sierra Norte de Guadalajara is less than Siberia, and yet you’re only 1.5 hours from Madrid. And so Rafael works tirelessly to balance the needs of the population with the natural environment and delivering water for their crops and animals is a priority. He listens to the inhabitants - and indeed he’s well known and loved - everywhere I went with Rafael he was greeted with a warm reception of hugs and handshakes and he took time to talk to everyone. It’s not all inhabited however - “We have three wild areas with no trails or public access,” he says, “where nature can take over”. Elsewhere visitors are restricted. Rafael has commissioned studies on tourism impact and consequently limits tourist numbers based on an area’s carrying capacity (popular routes like the beech forest walk (below) are limited to those with a day permit). The aim is what he calls Naturalea: “to explore the territory, walk its trails, enjoy its calm villages and nature without leaving a mark”. Hiking The route to the Chorreras de Despeñalagua is considered a ‘popular’ trail - we saw one other group on it. On many other routes - totalling 525km over 43 trails - you will find yourself alone all day, even in the peak season (spring and autumn weekends when the area is popular with Madrid residents escaping the city). The most challenging trails are the quietest and tackle the three highest peaks in Castilla-La Mancha, which are all within the boundaries of the park - Pico del Lobo (2,273 m), Cerrón (2,199 m) and Peña Cebollera Vieja or Tres Provincias (2,129 m) - and often snow-covered. There are 20 peaks of over 2,000 metres in the park alone so finding new and challenging walks is not a problem. More experienced hikers tackle these, meanwhile there are numerous shorter routes for families and less avid walkers, like the 6km Senda de Carretas trail. The Cart Trail is so called because it was the route used to transport charcoal produced in the beech forest carboneras,the traditional wooden huts where charcoal is made (there’s a reconstructed carbonera in the woods here). The trail starts along the banks of the Lillas River, an idyllic valley of cattle pasture. As we walked alongside it cow bells jangled and birds swooped overhead - the region is known for its Bonelli’s and golden eagles, peregrine falcons and Griffon vultures as well as countless smaller birds. After passing through oaks and silver birch - relatively rare in this biome - you reach the world’s most southerly beech forest, a strangely English scene with its leaf-strewn floor and the dappled sunshine passing through a layered canopy. It was here we saw another of the park residents, hearing its squeals before seeing it… a wild boar hightailing it through the trees. Other hiking routes are well mapped out on the park website and in brochures with options from 3-33km, all graded by difficulty and noted by environmental or historical interest, so it’s not hard to fill a long weekend - or even a whole month or three - with hiking in this park alone. Those looking to link trails together can, with the authorities blessing, request to stay overnight in one of the refuges and shelters, simple stone buildings dotted across the park ( contact details are here ). Rafael has also just released a series of geology themed walks and is in the process of installing 62 information panels about geology and geomorphology which will be unveiled in the autumn (nature information boards already exist on the more popular routes). The meeting of three geomorphological areas at the park means there’s a huge variety of rock types and features from the uplifted gneiss ridges of the Sierra del Ocejón to the red jagged ridges of the clay landscape to the south of the park with its gullies and canyons. Walking and wild flowers in the Sierra Norte Natural Park. Photos: Guide with hiker at noticeboard and Hiker in beech forest: Christopher Willan. Walker by signage and Orchid: Richard Hammond Other activities nearby The region is mountain biking heaven with at least eight mapped trails of between 6-47km offering the thrills of undulating terrain and epic views. Along these and the hiking routes are countless rivers, waterfalls and pools offering an enticing spot to cool off, albeit in bracing water that’s only recently run off the high mountain ridges. Swimming is allowed everywhere except Berbellido, Jaramilla and Pelagallinas rivers which are designated fish refuges, and for the preservation of the environment, hikers and cyclists are asked to stick to mapped trails. Climbing needs permission and is popular for both bouldering and potholing, especially the Ponton de la Olivia area with climbers from Madrid. Altitude is a leading factor in the vegetation type, with the forests of yew, holly, birch, alder, ash, poplar and whitebeam growing at various heights alongside the beech and oak, meanwhile, the Sierra de Alto Rey is covered by natural Scots pine forest and higher up on the exposed slopes are brooms and heathers, and the distinctive piorno serrano, a yellow flowering shrub that can cover entire hillsides. In spring the wild flowers are sensational and Rafael pointed out to me wild foxgloves and cistus, a rose-link shrub as well as many cultivars we have bred for our own garden borders like salvia and lavender. Naturally with flora this diverse the fauna is rich and aside from the birds, boars and wolves there’s much to see here if it decides to show up (though there’s an awful lot of park to hide in). Butterflies are an easy spot in the lowland valleys, while the larger beasts like deer, martens, wildcats and badgers are a little harder to see. Otters and shrews live in the crystalline waters while green-black lizards and salamanders bask on rocks, though the latter is highly endangered and Rafael believes there are only two groups left in the park. Wildlife spotting and adventure tourism aside there’s still more that Sierra Norte de Guadalajara can offer. The black architecture is intriguing and unique to this area leaving villages camouflaged with their surroundings. A few other buildings stand out like the Romanesque-style Santa Coloma church in Albendiego, Gothic-style Bonaval monastery in the village of Retiendas and the Ducal castle in Cogolludo, the first Renaissance palace in Spain. For organised tours and activities with a sustainable provider try La Tormenta ( https://latormenta.es/ ), which offers guided hiking, astronomy evenings and hire of climbing and hiking equipment. There’s also the Barbatona ecotourism centre ( https://barbatona.com/ ), a hostel and activities centre and Tubkala ( https://tubkala.com/ ) which offers photography, hiking and astronomy activities. Where to stay There are 43 villages in the park with residents numbering 2-30 people, and there’s one – La Vereda – with a single resident: a poet and biologist named Mario. Some have signed up to the Natura 2000 network, which offers training in environmentally-sound practices and knowledge around the park, so it’s a gold standard for eco tourists. These include: La Alquería de Valverde country house in Valverde de los Arroyos ( https://www.laalqueriadevalverde.es/ ) has four apartments that sleep two to four people with features like open fireplaces and a mountain chalet feel. From 144 euros for two people for two nights in the summer season (prices go up in autumn and winter to cover heating costs) Al Viento del Ocejón country house in El Espinar - Campillo de Ranas ( https://alvientodelocejon.com/ ) has six double bedrooms in a simple rustic style with ensuite bathrooms and cost from 70 euros a night for two people. Casa del Sol country house in Campillo de Ranas ( https://www.casaruralcasadelsol.es/ ) is a former tavern and can be rented as a whole or by the bedroom - it has three rooms plus a suite and is known for its homemade breakfast. From 75 euros per night for a double room. Camping is only allowed at the Cantalojas campsite, Los Bonales ( https://campinglosbonales.es/ ) which has pitches for tents and motorhomes with electricity plug-in plus four modern bungalows that sleep up to six, two of which welcome pets. It has a super restaurant on site (see below). Where to eat 7 of 43 villages have somewhere you can get a drink, a meal or be hosted so if you’re not packing a picnic, you need to plan. Some of the restaurants are listed on the tourism website , here are a few of our favourites: The restaurant at Los Bonales offers seasonal, fresh cooked food and a frequently changing menu under the friendly and efficient management of Maria. It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner and offers takeaway with dishes including salads, grilled meat and regional specialities. La Tarihuela restaurant and bar in Valverde de los Arroyos is unusual as it’s open all week (for most of the year). It’s a little more refined than some of the more rustic eateries but in essence is still founded on fresh seasonal food and traditional dishes with a twist. The restaurant at El Huerto de Abuelo is open open Fridays, Saturdays and national holidays and is highly thought of for its fresh-cooking as well as traditional dishes like Sierra style migas - fried breadcrumbs with egg, bacon and village chorizo. If you like to eat hyper local, you can forage the park for funghi in the autumn. Bolete (or Penny Bun) and Niscalo or Pine Mushroom are prized finds. You need to register with the municipality and pay 5 euros for up to 5kg. Planning a visit The park has four visitor centres open during weekends and bank holidays from Easter to November: Cogolludo, El Cardoso de la Sierra, Hayedo de Tejera Negra and Hiendelaencina. These are a good starting point for getting bearings and planning itineraries on site. You can access the park by road from Madrid or Guadalajara. There’s no public transport within the park but an excellent high speed rail network to Madrid from across Spain and beyond (see our guide to How to travel to Spain from the UK without flying ). More information: Sierra Norte Natural Park: areasprotegidas.castillalamancha.es Black architecture of Guadalajara: spain.info
- Taking a dip in Extremadura, Spain
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , Ginny Light explores Extremadura’s natural swimming pools Wild swimming is as ingrained in the culture of Extremadura as food and wine. In this wild and sparsely populated region to the south-west of Madrid, outdoor bathing is very much part of village life. Each summer across the region, rivers are dammed with boards laid between metal beams set into the river bed to restrict the flow downstream and create large deep pools. People of all ages gather round these pools at the end of the day, towels and picnics spread out to chat, swim and relax. During our week spent in the region we saw countless of these wild swimming spots, both dammed rivers and in plunge pools of waterfalls. In some villages, beaches form naturally while others have rocky platforms from which to dive into the water and cliffs for the daredevils to leap from. Alongside the swimming comes watersports like canoeing or canyoning, and hiking trails sprawl away from the rivers leading you further into the forests of oak and chestnut. These valleys are pockets of fertile land and rich with butterflies and birdsong, quite at odds with the image many have of Extremadura. Deeper meanings There are many theories around the etymology of the word Extremadura – and I found all of them to be accurate in some way or another. There are those that regard it as the ‘extreme’ border of the Christian kingdoms of the north and the Islamic empire to the south, and indeed the Moorish architecture here is testament to that. Then there is the theory of simply combining extrema and dura meaning ‘extreme’ and ‘hard’, a reflection of what life can be like for the relatively poor population of this region and the challenge of making a living here. Finally, some believe Extremadura means beyond or end of the Douro River, and it is this interpretation that shaped our trip as it led us to an unexpected jewel in Extremadura’s crown – the lush and verdant river valleys that cradle the tributaries of the Tagus and Guadiana rivers that cut through the steppe grasslands of this region. During our trip exploring the area, we never met another English tourist – these vast natural parks are visited rarely by anyone outside of Spain – or even Madrid. The city dwellers tend to visit at the weekends, retreating to fincas , larger remote farmstead properties, or the more modest cortijos or townhouses handed down through generations of their families. On our trip many of the village houses were shuttered up and we found the weekdays blissfully quiet bar the busier centres like Merida, known for its Roman architecture. This is the time to visit and find yourself the only tourist watching the world go by in a town square or taking the plunge in a natural swimming pool. Here are our discoveries: Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve The Sierra de Gredos and Tormantos mountains offer a dramatic backdrop to the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve, a landscape that’s sustained by the water that drains from them. This pocket of lush vegetation is pock-marked with walking and cycle routes as well as idyllic swimming spots. Visit during the week and you could find you don’t see another soul, as we found when we visited the Los Pilones water feature, known as giant’s kettles. The series of potholes linked by waterfalls have been carved out of the granite by eddying stones scouring the rocks, leaving smooth bowls in a cascade down the hillside. They’re accessible by hiking up from the Centro de Interpretacion de la Reserva Natural , a visitor centre that is well worth a visit for its information on the history and geography of the area with English explanations alongside the Spanish. It’s a 6km return hike to Los Pilones from here up well-marked tracks which rise up through a planted forest of sweet chestnuts and onto to lichen draped oak trees, or there are longer loops of up to 28km if you like a challenge – you’ll be rewarded with epic viewpoints, countless streams and waterfalls and plenty of picnic and photography spots. Come late spring through to early autumn this is a beautiful swimming spot with the water flow a little lighter, though the temperature is often in single figures so swimmers should dress accordingly. You can take a dip in below the footbridge or lower straight into the pools above the bridge, though the rocks are notoriously slippy. Back at the centre there’s a café with outdoor seating in the shade that serves good simple food and snacks. Photos: Chris Willan/Greentraveller Garganta Mayor This watercourse is just outside the mediaeval town of Garganta la Olla, known for its half-timbered and tile-roofed buildings which, like many of the settlements in this area, spill away from a church tower in the centre. We started the day watching the sun rise over this valley then headed down to the river which features a series of waterfalls and pools, popular swimming spots with local families. Closest to the village, Las Pilatillas de Abajo is a natural swimming pool created by damming a section of water. Alongside it is a café that’s open during the summer and can be quite lively on summer evenings. The further you hike away from the villages, the quieter the pools get. Piscina Natural de La Granja Though not as pretty as some of Extremadura’s other natural swimming areas, we came across this swimming spot on the Rio Ambroz just off the N-630 highway between Plasencia and Bejar, and were won over by its setting and the fab little Bar Chiringuito La Granja Beach alongside it. Sited on the La Vía de la Plata route of the Santiago de Compostela it’s doubtless been a welcome respite for many pilgrims too. The pool fills in the summer season and has a car park alongside it, then there’s Bar Chiringuito on the river bank. The all outside seating is undercover and the modest kitchen produces a varied menu that includes a superb house gazpacho as well as salads, grilled meat and chips, and sandwiches. Other swimming areas to explore: Garganta de Cuartos in Losar de la Vera, Cáceres; Garganta de Alardos in Madrigal de la Vera and Garganta de Pedro Chate in Jaraíz de la Vera. == Disclosure: Ginny Light had full editorial control of this review, which has been written in her own words based on her experience of visiting Extremadura in June 2024. All opinions are the authors’ own.
- Outdoor adventure in Spain
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , here's our pick of outdoor adventure activities across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Hiking in Garganta de los Infiernos, Extremadura The Sierra de Gredos and Tormantos mountains offer a dramatic backdrop to the Garganta de los Infiernos Nature Reserve, a landscape that’s sustained by the water that drains from them. This pocket of lush vegetation is pock-marked with walking and cycle routes as well as idyllic swimming spots. Visit during the week and you could find you don’t see another soul, as we found when we visited the Los Pilones water feature, known as giant’s kettles. The series potholes linked by waterfalls have been carved out of the granite by eddying stones scouring the rocks leaving smooth bowls in a cascade down the hillside. They’re accessible by hiking up from the Centro de Interpretacion de la Reserva Natural, a visitor centre that is well worth a visit for its information on the history and geography of the area with English explanations alongside the Spanish. See our feature article: Take a dip in Extremadura . More information: gargantadelosinfiernos.com Canyoning in the Jerte Valley, Extremadura The Jerte Valley is less than three hours west of Madrid and is best known for its spectacular cherry blossom in Spring (see our feature on Places of interest in Spain ). In summer, the region's rivers and gorges are the venue for a range of outdoor adventure, including the increasingly popular activity of canyoning, particularly at the waterfalls at Las Nogaleas and Los Hoyos. Gecko Adventures runs a range of guided canyoning trips in the Papuos ravine in the Jerte Valley where you can expect a heady mix of slides, abseils and jumps. Day trips run from April to November weather depending. https://www.aventurajerte.es/ Birdwatching in Monfrague National Park, Extremadura Bordered by the cities of Cáceres, Plasencia and Trujillo, at the convergence of the Tajo and Tiétar rivers, Monfrague National Park is regarded as one of the best birdwatching areas in Spain. It was the first area in Extremadura to be officially protected (it was declared a Natural Park in 1979) and is particularly well known as the site of one of largest colonies of black vultures in the world. It is also the home to black storks, Egyptian vultures and the rare imperial eagle. For more information: monfraguevivo.com . Birding Extremadura runs birdwatching trips to the region. See the Broom in Bloom in Gredos, Castilla y León Travel to the Sierra de Gredos region of Castilla y León in late Spring (May and early June) and you'll be treated to a profusion of yellow. The broom is the Piornos flower (a bush of tightly packed branches) which is covered with previous yellow flowers and be seen throughout the area often on the hillside, and late in June and July it can be seen higher up in the mountains. turismoavila.com/web/valle_tietar_gredos_sur Bathing in the natural waters at Puente del Duque, Castilla y León An idyllic spot for a picnic and swim beneath a Roman bridge amid pine forests on the River Tormes in the Sierra de Gredos, just south of Hoyos del Espino. Nearby there's a campsite , adventure park, and a lovely 3.5 mile walking trail, as well as several horse-riding and cycling routes. turismoavila.com Walking along river at Boca de Asno, Castilla y León In the heart of the beautiful Sierra de Guadarrama National Park (in the Castilla y León part of the park) the Boca del Asno recreational area is a hub for visitors. Don't miss the interpretation centre to learn about the Valsain Valley, then lace up your boots and head off along an easy forest trail that runs alongside the beautiful river Eresma. It's a lovely walk, perfect for a few hours stroll along the river and among the trees and wild horses in a picturesque setting. To get there by public transport, Line M3 Guadarrama National Park bus runs on Saturdays from Segovia to Boca del Asno via La Granja. parquenacionalsierraguadarrama.es/visita/contacto-cv/cv-valsain Hiking along the river at Boca de Asno. Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Hiking to Chorreras de Despeñalagua, Castilla-La Mancha The picturesque Chorreras de Despeñalagua waterfall is deep in the heart of the Sierra Norte Natural Park in Guadalajarra. The route there from Valverde de Los Arroyos is considered a ‘popular’ trail - we saw one other group on it. On many other routes in the park - totalling 525km over 43 trails - you will find yourself alone all day, even in the peak season (spring and autumn weekends when the area is popular with Madrid residents escaping the city). The most challenging trails are the quietest and tackle the three highest peaks in Castilla-La Mancha, which are all within the boundaries of the park - Pico del Lobo (2,273 m), Cerrón (2,199 m) and Peña Cebollera Vieja or Tres Provincias (2,129 m) - and often snow-covered. There are also numerous shorter routes for families and less avid walkers, such as the 6km Senda de Carretas trail – so called because it was the route used to transport charcoal produced in the beech forest carboneras, the traditional wooden huts where charcoal is made. The region is known for its Bonelli’s and golden eagles, peregrine falcons and Griffon vultures as well as countless smaller birds. See our feature article on Hiking and Conservation in the Sierra Norte Natural Park . Hiking at Valle de la Barranca, Sierra de Guadarrama One of the highlights of the Sierra de Guadarrama National Park, Valle de la Barranca by the mountains of Bola del Mundo and La Maliciosa is perfect for a walk away from the crowds. There's a signposted 11-kilometre trail up from the dam at Navacerrada that takes you on a forest trail up to the stunning sightseeing spot at Mirador de las Canchas, which looks out over the beautiful National Park. For more information on the regulations regarding visiting the National Park as well as the locations of the visitor centres, see: parquenacionalsierraguadarrama.es Cycle touring around Bilbao, Basque Country You can tour Bilbao on foot, by rollerskate, by go-kart and by kayak, but one of the best ways to cover a lot of ground and get a feel for the city is by bike. There are numerous operators of which Tourné is highly regarded. The three-hour Bilbao introduction tour is offered every day at 10am for 2-12 people. The tour includes classic sites such as the Guggenheim and Palacio Euskalduna staying mostly to cycle paths and away from heavy traffic. It costs €43 and includes a pintxos stop. The company also offers the ‘Street Art’ tour for €39 for three hours. It visits urban art that is scattered throughout the city, public art works, cultural centres, festivals and other innovative initiatives that are emerging . tournebilbao.com Watching our video of Green Spain: Winetasting at Marques de Riscal, Basque Country Rioja’s vineyards, or bodegas, are relatively new to the business of tourism but have rapidly upped the ante by building even more adventurous structures to draw visitors. One of the most arresting is the Marques de Riscal bodega, designed by Frank Gehry, of Bilbao’s Guggenheim museum fame. The company started making wine in 1862 and the original cellar remains in situ but in 2006 a dramatic new look was unveiled. It has been compared to a scrunched handkerchief and the ruffles of a flamenco dancer’s skirt. The contorted twists of pink, gold and silver titanium stand out against the combed hillsides in the village of Elciego, but strangely co-exist, reflecting the changing colours of the vines and the limestone rock. There is now a hotel, two restaurants, a shop, cafe and spa with grape-themed treatments and two ‘barrel baths’. A tour lasts 90 minutes, costs €25 per person (free for under 10s, €12.50 for 11-17 year olds) and includes tasting of two wines paired with sausage and chorizo from Rioja. marquesderiscal.com Surfing at Somo, Cantabria The Atlantic coastline of Green Spain makes it a popular year-round surfer’s paradise and there are countless beaches with good breaks and facilities for surfers. Somo is in the Bay of Santander in Cantabria and offers a 7km stretch of waves with lots of surf schools that are popular for their young, enthusiastic instructors and for the location. You can have individual lessons for two hours or join a group and pay less. Somo is accessible by ferry from Santander. The currents on the beach are strong and surfers should pay attention to the warning flags. For the latest surf conditions and forecast (including a webcam) and lists of surf schools see: surfatodacosta.es/en/home/ Bird watching at Covadonga Lakes, Asturias The Covadonga lakes are two glacial lakes in the Picos de Europa National Park about 30 minutes' drive from the striking church of the same name. En route to the lake are a number of viewpoints, or mirador, from which to take in the stunning Asturian landscape. At the lakes birdwatchers can see griffon vultures, eagles, redstarts, yellow-billed choughs and northern wheatears in the summer. The company Birdwatch Asturias can provide a guide, telescope, bird guides and binoculars, including ones for children, for a four-hour tour starting in Cangas de Onís. The tours, on foot and by car, include information about agrarian life, geography and, of course, bird behaviour, and run from mid-March to the end of October. birdwatchasturias.es Diving in Fuciño do Porco, Galicia The Fuciño do Porco, or ‘pig’s snout’ dive site in Punta Socastro is best known for its natural tunnel. This makes for an exciting dive that is accessible for all levels of diver from beginner to advanced. Atlantic marine wildlife includes octopus, brightly coloured sea slugs and star fish. The guided dive for 1-10 people takes 90 minutes, including weights and tank air. wildsea.eu/spain Following in the footsteps of pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, Galicia Across Green Spain one can expect sightings of a scallop shell sign on trees, posts and walls guiding walkers along the trail of the famous pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. There are eight main routes but the original, the Camino Frances, starts in France at St Jean Pied de Port and crosses the Pyrenees and Green Spain region to Santiago de Compostela. The shortest version is the Camino Inglés, starting in A Coruña and covering just over 100km to Santiago. It can also be tackled by bicycle or on horseback. The idea is to complete it alone, although most travel in groups. Either way, it is time for quiet contemplation and appreciation of nature, as well as the astoundingly beautiful cathedral at the end. caminodesantiago.gal/es/inicio Hiking at Montserrat Natural Park, Paisatges de Barcelona The mountain of Montserrat, 50km north-west of Barcelona, is best known as the site of the historic Benedictine Monastery of Santa Maria, founded in 1025, home to the 12th-century statue of Our Lady of Montserrat (the so-called ‘Black Virgin’) that still attracts countless pilgrims today. But though the extensive main monastery complex is the big draw, the striking rock outcrops of the surrounding natural park provide a dramatic backdrop for hikes including the testing climb up to the highest peak, San Jeroni. Numerous paths offer walks for a range of levels of experience and ability; the easy Tebes Trail visits the ruins of the ancient churches of San Juan, San Onofre and Santa Magdalena. Via ferrata and rock-climbing tours are also available. montserratvisita.com Watch our video of winter in Catalonia: Cycling the Greenway with Esgambi, Terres de l’Ebre, Catalonia Nearly half a century ago, the train line between Arnes, on the Aragon border, and Tortosa on the lower Ebro closed. But the failure of the railway has been a boon for bikers – the route has now been converted into a wonderful Green Way cycle trail, looping 49km around the dramatic rock outcrops of Els Ports Natural Park and past charming and historic towns and villages such as Horta de Sant Joan, where Picasso spent some years during his youth (“Everything I know, I learned in Horta”, he once said). esgambi.com Birdwatching by Kayak on the Ebro River, Terres de l’Ebre The Ebro is Spain’s longest river, flowing 910km south from the Cantabrian Mountains to the Mediterranean at the shimmering delta south-west of Tarragona. It’s also thriving with life, and a guided kayak trip with En Blau offers a wonderful opportunity to admire the colourful and charismatic species that throng its banks. enblau.cat Birdwatching by kayak on the Ebro river. Photos: Greentraveller Watch our video of summer in Catalonia, including kayaking on the Ebro River: Walking the Valleys and High Slopes of Las Alpujarras As Paul Bloomfield writes in our Guide to Las Alpujarras , the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountains in Andalucia’s Granada and Almería provinces: "There’s no denying the ‘Chris Stewart Effect’ in Las Alpujarras. Before the former Genesis drummer penned Driving Over Lemons , his paean to farm life in a rural Alpujarran community, few of us could pinpoint the region on a map. Today, Las Alpujarras is a byword for rustic Spanish idyll". Spring is heralded by the appearance of almond blossom, autumn brings sweet chestnuts, and the onset of winter wrestles olives from their branches, soon to be turned into the region’s prized olive oil. UK-based tour operator Inntravel runs self-guided walking through the valleys and high slopes of this beautiful region, following the trans-European long-distance GR7 path from Athens to Tarifa, in the shadow of the Sierra Nevada and along the cavernous Poqueira Gorge. It also runs trips in the desert-like landscapes of Almería, the chestnut-clad Aracena Sierra near Seville, and the mountains surrounding famous Ronda. inntravel.co.uk/walking-holidays/spain Cross-country skiing at Puerto de la Ragua, Almería In a lesser-known section of the Sierra Nevada National Park, Puerto de la Ragua is a hub for a range of outdoor summer activities, including hiking, climbing, mountain biking, and horse-riding, while in winter it's a playground for cross-country skiers. Covering more than 40km, the ski area has both linear and circular routes, as well as mountain passes linking the Marquesada with Ferreira and the rest of Las Alpujarras. At the resort, there's a shelter-refuge for up to 32 people with a bar-restaurant and an information point. For ski reports see: puertodelaragua.com . More information : andalucia.org Cycling in Sierra Nevada and Granada, Andalucia One of the popular cycling destinations in Spain, the Sierra Nevada offers a range of attractions, including the white mountain villages of the Alpujarras, the cave houses in Guadix, the classic Sierra de Pandera ride that's in the Vuelta a España and the ascent of the Sierra Nevada itself "riding to the roof of Spain". Rutas MTB Granada offers a range of opportunities including road cycling, mountain biking and gravel cycling in the Sierra Nevada, while Saddle Skedaddle runs a 7-day road cycling holiday in the Sierra Nevada and Granada. Watch Green Traveller's video of Spain: Snorkelling and Scuba diving in Formentera The popularity of snorkelling and scuba diving on Formentera is in no small part thanks to the existence of its posidonia oceanica seagrass plant meadows. These unique underwater seagrass fields help to oxygenate the water and maintain its clarity; visibility is so good that octopus, barracuda, plaice, grouper, bream, red mullet, moray eels, starfish and sponges are regularly seen. Some lucky divers report seeing turtles and dolphins too. Whether you want to give scuba a go for the first time or you’re an experienced diver, the island’s four local scuba companies will be glad to show you the ropes (or, rather, the reefs). Cycle touring across Mallorca Mallorca is a mecca for cyclists. The combination of mountains, scenic trails, a long winter season (October to May) has led to it becoming one of the most popular in the world for cycling. An important factor is that it has excellent infrastructure for cyclists, with over 120 hotels welcoming cyclists with bike rental and repair services, massage services and adapted menus to help you recover from and conquer the challenging routes. A series of routes have been developed with varying degrees of difficulty, both in in terms of distance and unevenness of the terrain, grouped into 4 different areas across the island. The 16 routes have a total length of 1,732 km and connect the main population centres and places of interest in Mallorca, such as its towns, lighthouses, hermitages and the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range. mallorca.es/en/cycle-touring E-biking round Ibiza Electric cycling has boomed in recent years thanks to the improvements in battery life and availability of a new breed of bikes that can help you spend all day long without having to re-charge, whether it's an off-road adventure or a leisurely ride along the coast. You can get to see a lot of Ibiza in a day on an e-bike and there are a multitude of options, whether you want to go for just a few hours or spend the whole day in the sadddle. Bike Ibiza rents out e-bikes and provides tours all over the island for everyone from novices to seasoned cyclists, including on the neighbouring island of Formentera. Swimming in the saltwater pools in Garachico, Tenerife, Canary Islands Head to the quieter side of the island for a spot of natural swimming. The natural pools of El Caletón in Garachico on the northern coast of the island (about 50km west of the capital Santa Cruz) are the perfect place to cool off after exploring the historic old town of Garachico, Tenerife's first port that was built in the 15th Century. Declared a Site of Cultural Interest in 1994, it is one of the best preserved places in the archipelago. turismo.garachico.es Whale watching in Tenerife La Gomera Whale Heritage Site The waters around Tenerife and La Gomera were Europe's first Whale Heritage Area - awarded the accolade for its population of pilot whales alongside a variety of other whale and dolphin species within a Special Area of Conservation, including Risso's dolphin, Sperm whale, Killer whale, Fin whale and common bottlenose dolphins. The interest in the majestic marine species has blossomed in recent years and there are ample opportunities to go whale watching, with tours departing from the west coast of La Gomera and Tenerife from just 2 hours to trips that last all day long. tenerifewhalewatching.com , lagomera.travel . For more information about Wildlife Heritage Areas, see: wildlifeheritageareas.org Taking part in the Gran Canaria Walking Festival In October each year, the Gran Canaria Walking Festival draws in visitors from all over the world. The four organised routes aim to showcase the best of the island's landscape - this year (the 13th year of the festival), the four routes are Under the Shelter of Doramas, The Peak of the Navigators (which starts close to the highest point on the island), Discovering the Aldea coastline, and the Road to the Top, which starts from Tejeda, listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. See the full programme of walks at: grancanariawalkingfestival.com == For nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and local sights of interest, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain
- Places of interest in Spain
As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Spain , here's our pick out of visitor attractions across the country. Contributing writers: Paul Bloomfield, Ginny Light, Richard Hammond Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Green Spain : Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities Caozo Waterfall, Valdastillas, Extremadura One of the most accessible of several spectacular waterfalls in Extremadura, it's just a short walk of the main CC.17.5 road between Piornal and Valdastillas. The 30m tumble of water is best viewed from the handy viewing platform that has been built to make it safer to admire this breathtaking sight. https://reservaextremadura.com/en/actividad/cascada-el-caozo The viewing platform at Caozo Waterfall, Extremadura. Photo: Christopher Willan Cherry Blossom Festivals, Extremadura Extremadura's Jerte Valley is famous world-wide for its cherries - we’ve probably all eaten them from our local supermarkets as they’re widely exported. Over 200 cherry types are grown in the area including three varieties of Picota which are highly prized. They’re a huge bright red fruit that could be almost as large as plums and grow straight from the branch with no stalk. Visitors can try their hand at picking, a firm pulling motion straight from tree with cherries placed into baskets that are handmade from the wood of nearby chestnut trees. You can organise cherry tours and picking through the village tourist offices or hotels and join in the festivities of the harvest (May-September) with a day’s picking rewarded with a large alfresco meal. Spring festivals celebrate the cherry blossoms with parties, live music, workshops and cooking events, there’s also the Cherry Museum in a former Civil Guard quarters in Cabezuela del Valle. It’s friendly, though its information is in Spanish only. turismovalledeljerte.com/cerezo-en-flor Garganta la Olla and nearby natural bathing areas, Extremadura Wild swimming is very much part of village life in this wild and sparsely populated region to the south-west of Madrid. Each summer across the region, rivers are dammed using boards between metal beams set into the riverbed to restrict the flow downstream and create large deep pools for people of all ages to gather to chat, swim and relax. There are many of these watercourses outside the medieval town of Gargana la Olla, known for its half-timbered and tile-roofed buildings. On our trip to Extremadura, we started the day watching the sun rise over this valley then headed down to the river which features a series of waterfalls and pools, popular swimming spots with local families. Closest to the village, Las Pilatillas de Abajo is a natural swimming pool created by damming a section of water. Other swimming areas include Garganta de Cuartos in Losar de la Vera, Cáceres; Garganta de Alardos in Madrigal de la Vera and Garganta de Pedro Chate in Jaraíz de la Vera. See our feature article Taking a dip in Extremadura . More info: turismoextremadura.com Left: Garganta la Olla; Right: Las Pilatillas de Abajo Photos: Christopher Willan/Greentraveller La Alberca, Castilla y León The first rural town in Spain to be declared a National Historic Monument, La Alberca is the capital of Sierra de Francia Comarca, closed to the border with Portugal. Pride of place is the Plaza Mayor square, surrounded by colonnaded arcades and several bars, cafes and restaurants serving mostly traditional food. La Asunción parish church, built in the 18th century, is home to a granite pulpit from the 16th century and a Gothic processional cross in gilt copper, as well as a figure of the Cristo del Sudor attributed to Juan de Juni. laalberca.com El Bosque de Béjar, Castilla y León Close to the city of Béjar (renowned for being a reference point for the Renaissance in Spain, at the interchange between a medieval castle-fortress and a Renaissance village), El Bosque de Béjar, built in the mid 16th Century, is famous for its Italian-style mansion villa, orchard, and romantic garden among forests of huge trees and ornamental water features. Visit in autumn for the rich colours of hazel, chestnut and walnut trees. Open Wed mornings, and all day Thursday to Sunday, guided tours available at 5.30pm. More information: turismocastillayleon.com Jardines de la Granja, Castilla y León The formal French-style gardens of the magnificent Jardines de la Granja are considered "the most important contribution to the reign of Philip V to the history of Spanish gardens". In front of the Versaille-like Royal Palace, drawing on water from the nearby mountains of Montes de Valsaín using an 18th Century hydraulic system still in use today, the iconic 'La Fama' fountains (lined with marble statues) is one of 25 'Monumental Foundations'. Come here to simply to stroll around and admire the baroquial splendour that extends over 146 hectares of gardens and forest (look out for the impressive mountain long views along tree-lined paths). Open year round Tuesday to Sunday. patrimonionacional.es Natural Park of Las Batuecas and Sierra de Francia, Castilla y León In the south of Salamanca close to La Alberca, the Natural Park of Las Batuecas and Sierra de Francia is part of the western foothills of the Central Mountain Range whose highest points (Pico La Hastiala and Peña de Francia) dominate the skyline. It's a mystically place contrasting deep canyons with flat plains, and is an important site of historic and artistic heritage, including Neolithic rock art (at La Batueca, Castañar, Caballos, Monedas and Risca), shrines and monasteries. The range of habitats are home to a variety of wildlife, including Iberian lynx and ibex, and a rich variety of birds, such as griffon and black vultures, Egyptian vultures, golden eagle, peregrine falcons, and eagle owl. The visitor centre is in Carretera Las Batuecas . More information: patrimonionatural.org and turismocastilla.com Sierra Norte Natural Park, Castilla-La Mancha Everything about the Sierra Norte Natural Park in Guadalajara is on a huge scale - the relief, the waterfalls, the biodiversity and the opportunities to explore this vast and rugged mountainous area. It's a designated natural park in the Castilla-La Mancha area of Spain to the south of Madrid, rarely visited by anyone outside of Madrid, and yet it has so much to see and do. For an in-depth information about the park, where to stay and eat nearby, see our feature article Hiking and Conservation in the Sierra Norte Natural Park . Black architecture villages, Castilla-La Mancha The use of locally mined slate (in contrast to the terracotta and pale stone buildings typical of the area) meant that there are several villages in Castilla-La Mancha known as black architecture villages, their unusual dark tones intriguing camouflaging the buildings with their surroundings. Just 50 kilometres from the city of Guadalajara, they're on the slopes of Mount Ocejón: those on the eastern slope are Retiendas, Campillejo, El Espinar, Roblelacasa, Campillo de Ranas, Robleluengo and Majaelrayo; those on the western slope are Almiruete, Palancares and Valverde de los Arroyos. At a push, they can all be visited in a day by car, but if you take your time, you can visit them at a more comfortable pace over several days, which will allow time to visit some of the other main attractions in the area, such as the ruins of the Cistercian monastery of Bonaval and the town of Cogolludo, with a notable Plaza Mayor and Ducal Palace. spain.info/en/region/guadalajara-province/ Guadarrama National Park, Communidad de Madrid The fourth largest national park in Spain (covering nearly 34000 hectares), the Sierra de Guadarrama is just one hour by car from Madrid. Famous for providing the backdrop for countless films (as well as the landscape backgrounds of Velázquez's royal portraits), the terrain ranges from oak and pine groves and creeping juniper forests a lower areas, while higher up there are high-altitude pastures, wet meadows and small patches of birch and. yew. It's home to a remarkable range of biodiversity, including a variety of beautiful butterflies, more than 1,000 plant species, including 83 that are endemic, many mountain birds, such as the alpine accentor, wheatear, bluethroat and red rock thrush, endangered species such as the black vulture, imperial eagle and black stork, and nearly 60 species of mammals, including mountain goats, otters and a variety of bats. parquenacionalsierraguadarrama.es Chillida’s Wind Comb, San Sebastian, The Basque Country San Sebastian has numerous public artworks, the most famous of which is Eduardo Chillida’s three dramatic steel sculptures mounted on rocks at the western end of Ondarreta beach. The situation was chosen by Basque architect Luis Peña Ganchegui to be within the tidal ranges so the sculptures look dramatically different when viewed at high or low tide. These ‘Peigne du Vent’ are the starting point for the Côte Contemporaine walking trail that includes further work by Chillida and fellow Basque sculptor, Nestor Basterretxea. At the eastern end of the beach a pedestrian tunnel below the El Pico del Loro outcrop has a changing display of art and leads to La Concha beach and another Chillida work. sansebastianturismo.com Caves of Altamira, Cantabria Two kilometres outside Santillana del Mar are the Altamira caves where a series of 145,000-year-old paintings of bison, doe and horses were found. The actual relics are closed to visitors to protect them from deterioration, bar a tiny ballot of ticket-holders each week, but a painstakingly built replica exists, with drawings created using the charcoal and red oxides of the original. The cave was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1985 (considered to possess 'Exceptional Universal Value') and is often referred to as ‘the Sistine Chapel’ of quaternary art. There is also a museum which is host to temporary exhibitions and workshops alongside information about the paintings and their discovery. The site is closed on Mondays and some public holidays. spain.info/en/places-of-interest/national-museum-research-centre-altamira Llanes, Asturias One of the most popular Asturian towns, Llanes (pronounced ‘Janice’) has it all - a pretty harbour front, sandy coves and the Picos de Europa mountains as a backdrop. Part of the town’s medieval defences remain, including 300 metres of pre-Romanesque walls and a tower now occupied by the tourist office. Down at the port, the sea defences has been given a makeover by Basque artist Agustin Ibarrrola whose Cubes of Memory' are a public artwork. Of the 29 beaches close to the town the most popular is Playa el Sablón because it is tranquil and reached by the Paseo San Pedro walk, a scenic 800 metres long. However, the most curious beaches are Cobijeru and Gulpiyuri, which face inland and have been created by water and sand rushing through gaps in the cliff. Another beach, Poo, is the most giggle-inducing but beautiful despite the name and pronounced ‘Poe’ in Spanish. Elaborate colonial mansions surround Llanes that were built by emigres returning from Latin America bringing with them wealth from exports and a cosmopolitan style termed ‘Indian architecture’. Artisan cheese from ‘queserías’ and cider houses called ‘ sidrerías ’ are among the gastronomic specialities. spain.info/en/destination/llanes/ Lugo, Galicia Lugo is best known for its city walls - the entire perimeter around what was the Roman town of Lucus Augusti remain intact making them the finest example of late Roman fortifications in western Europe. Visitors can encircle the town on the 2.3km walkway along the top of the walls. Lugo is also one of the main stopping off points along the Camino Primitivo, the oldest Camino de Santiago route, and is famous for its cathedral, Praza de Santa Maria. The 12th century Romanesque building has evolved over time to incorporate elements of Baroque, Gothic and Neoclassical styles. spain.info/en/destination/lugo/ La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, Girona Pyrenees, Catalonia This unique region in far north-eastern Catalonia was created by dramatic volcanic ructions, and some 40 cones and more than 20 lava flows are still evident in the natural park. Thanks to the fertile volcanic soil and climate it’s a natural wonderland, much forested and scattered with historic villages. turismegarrotxa.com Video of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park filmed by Richard Hammond and produced by Green Traveller productions for DestiMED PLUS Val d’Aran Biosphere Destination, Val d’Aran, Catalonia The spectacular Pyrenean landscapes, dominated by mountains, forests, lakes and the Garona River are the main scenic attractions of this long-isolated highland valley, and key reasons why it became the first mountain tourist destination to receive UNESCO Biosphere Responsible Tourism Certification. spain.info/en/nature/biosphere-reserve-val-aran Romanesque churches of the Boí Valley, Lleida Pyrenees, Catalonia The eight Romanesque churches and hermitage retreat of the Boí Valley are collectively a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They were built during the 11th and 12th Century, based on an architectural style imported from northern Italy of iconic slim bell-towers and rounded arcading and pilaster strips. centreromanic.com Castillo de La Calahorra, Las Alpujarras, Granada Looking for all the world like a giant sandcastle looming over the plains east of Granada, the mighty fortress at La Calahorra is arguably the most unusual and dramatic castle in Spain. Its four bulbous corner towers and high, massive outer walls enclose an elegant Italian Renaissance interior, built between 1509 and 1512 for nobleman Rodrigo de Vivar y Mendoza on the site of a much older Moorish bastion. Today it’s privately owned and only available to visit on Wednesdays (usually 10am-1pm and 5-7pm or by appointment with caretaker Antonio Trivaldo, +34 958 67 70 98). It’s been used as a film set more than once – you might have spotted it during a surreal scene in the Spice Girls’ movie! La Calahorra is at the bottom (northern) end of the road leading down from the Puerto de la Ragua, the main pass over the Sierra Nevada. portal.dipgra.es Guadix, Las Alpujarras, Granada Now famous for its (still inhabited) troglodyte dwellings, Guadix was already old when the Romans settled here at the town they called Acci – indeed, Hadrian reputedly marvelled at the antiquity of Guadix – before the Moors established their own town of Wadi-Ash (‘River of Life’). About 1000 people still live in caves, and a visit to one of the cave museums provides fascinating insights into subterranean life. The 11th-century Islamic Alcazaba (castle, accessed from Calle Barradas) affords views over the cave quarter of the city, and the 16th-century sandstone baroque-Renaissance cathedral is also worth exploring. spain.info/en/destination/guadix Es Caló de Sant Agustí, Formentera A traditional fishing village to the east of the island’s north coast, Es Caló’s picturesque natural harbour is lined with simple wooden boathouses designed to protect the locals’ small vessels from the salt water. One of the best places on the island to see these traditional dry docks (with their distinctive matchstick-style wooden ramps and roofs they were declared an official site of cultural interest since 2002), the village is also a great place for a post-swim lunch or dinner, with several restaurants to choose from. To the west are the sandy coves of Ses Platgetes and, to the east, the cliffs of La Mola, reachable on foot via green route 25, which follows a historic path to La Mola lighthouse known as the Camí de Sa Pujada. formentera.es/en/explore/villages Estany Pudent y Ses Salines, Formentera A large lake in the north of the island, between La Savina and Es Pujols, Estany Pudent is a must-visit for birdwatchers and, as such, off-limits to swimmers. Flamingos, storks and shelducks can often be spotted from the Es Brolls walking and cycle path, which fringes the lagoon, as can several species of waders, ducks and herons. It’s also home to one of the largest concentrations of black-necked grebes in Europe; sometimes they flock here in their thousands. Nearby are the salt flats of Ses Salines, which flush pink and violet in the summer. In use for centuries, their importance in the island’s long history of salt production saw them declared a monument of historical cultural interest in 2004. See also our section on birdwatching in Formentera in Activities in Formentera . Casita Verde, Ibiza A pioneering ecology centre "in the green heart of Ibiza's beautiful countryside". Founded by Chris Dews in 1993, it's as much a showcase and educational hub for green living as it is a visitor centre, with a demonstration treehouse, wagon-style tiny house and a number of green-living spaces and communcal areas. Tours run each Sunday, from the beginning of October until the end of May, during which you'll learn about the application and principles of Permaculture techniques, the use of renewable energy, the collection, responsible consumption and reuse of water, as well as the reuse and recycling of waste materials. It has now opened a second site in Granada, and has also produced a handy online guide to green Ibiza , listing a range of environmental businesses, organisations and facilities across the island, from accommodation and visitor attractions to recycling centres and ecological stores. casitaverde.com Valldemossa, Mallorca The car-free historic town of Valldemossa (whose weekly market is on Sundays) is high up within the World Heritage Tramuntana mountain range in the west of the island, just inland from the coast. Expect cobbled streets amid impressive mountain views, surrounded by lush forests, olive and almond trees. It's home to La Cartuja – an ancient Carthusian Monastery that was once the residence of Jaime II, and housed priests from 1399 to 1835, as well as two well-known visitors the polish composer Frederic Chopin and French writer George Sand whose writings and correspondence are kept here. It's also home to the Costa Nord cultural centre, which hosts concerts and exhibitions. mallorca.es/en/-/valldemossa Garajonay National Park, La Gomera, Canary Islands Sixty minutes by boat from the west of Tenerife (also reachable by plane from Tenerife and Gran Canaria), La Gomera feels like a million miles away from the packed resorts of its larger neighbours. The entire island is a biosphere reserve, covering an area of just over 370 square kilometres, and is defined by a volcanic interior criss-crossed by hiking trails. The ancient green laurel forests of Garajonay National Park, in the centre and north of the island, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its intense green forests, huge rocky outcrops, and over a thousand endemic species, including giant lizards, skinks, tree frogs and pigeons (Laurel ad Bolle's). The visitor centre is at Juego de Bolas in the north of the land, and there is accommodation just outside the park's boundary – for more information see lagomera.travel. Transvulcania Ultramarathon, La Palma, Canary Islands The World Heritage Biosphere island of La Palma is the most northwesterly of the Canary Islands. In May it hosts a 'Trasvulcania marathon' where runners follow trails across the island's impressive volcanic landscape. The main route follows the Ruta del Baston and then over the Caldera de Taburiente National Park as it ascends to the Roque de los Muchachos. There are several options: a full ultra marathon (just over 73km from the Fuencaliente Lighthouse to Los Llannos de Aridane), a half marathon, a standard marathon and the Vertical KM, which is a 7-kilometre climb up from Puerto de Tazacorte beach (in the opposite direction of the ultra marathon's course) up to the viewpoint of Piedra del Guanche with views of the northeast of the island and the Ardiane Valley. Not for the faint hearted! The island is reachable by boat from the other islands but also has its own international airport with direct flights from several Spanish cities (including Bilbao, Madrid and Barcelona) and several European cities, including Berlin, London, Zürich and Amsterdam. transvulcania.com/en/sustainability El Hierro, Canary Islands El Hierro is the most westerly, southerly and least populated of the Canary Islands that's both a World Heritage Reserve and a Geopark. It's known for its green dense forests, rocky cliffs and natural pools as well as being a symbol of sustainability thanks to its policy of using renewable energy – it draws on both wind and hydro-electric energy to meet all of the island's demand for electricity. The island's tourism authorities are also on a mission to encourage low impact activities, such as ecotourism, hiking and birdwatching, to reduce the impact of tourism on the island's environment. The island is reachable by boat, a 2-3 hour journey from the south of Tenerife, or by plane from Tenerife (40 minutes) and Gran Canaria (55 minutes). The Mar de las Calmas off the island of El Hierro, is planning to be Spain’s first fully marine national park. The area is already renowned for its biodiversity and underwater volcanic landscapes and is set to become the country's 17th national park. The park’s designation will ensure the preservation of unique volcanic reefs, caves, and deep-sea habitats that support various species, including sperm whales and whale sharks. elhierro.travel == For nearby places to stay, local food and drink, and low impact outdoor adventure activities, see Green Traveller's Guide to Spain