Chris Woodley-Stewart explores the Jurassic Coast and the South West Coast Path, and says Dorset is "arguably England's best county for wildlife". Much of Dorset is a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and as well as having wonderful landscapes and a rich historic environment, it's also arguably England's best county for wildlife. In summer, I head to the heathlands, buzzing with a stellar cast of jewelled insects, enigmatic reptiles and birdlife that includes the mysterious nightjar, the dartford warbler and the parachuting tree pipit. Inland, winter is a time when the cultural heritage takes over from the natural to some degree, and attention turns to trying to read the 'humps and bumps' in the landscape. But now it's the windswept, wave-battered coast that draws me, and I'm heading to Thorneycombe Beacon and then along the South West Coast Path to Charmouth, over Golden Cap. The moment I set off I'm greeted by two buzzards, whirling in courtship flight above the field to my left. Buzzards are a common sight across the country now, but they never cease to delight, and their mewing is England's real call of the wild. Looking back north beyond the cone of Colmers Hill, it's possible to discern the original plateau through which the rivers have cut today's network of valleys, leaving more prominent conical hills like Colmers. Many of these are the sight of hillforts and tumuli and it's easy to see why they were the focus of ancient settlements. By the time I reach Thorneycombe Beacon and the ruffled blanket of sea below, I'm joined by three ravens, tumbling together through the sky. Watching them it's hard not to conclude that they are simply doing this for the sheer joy it brings them (and me). In summer a diversity of flowers, butterflies and birds can be found up here. But today it's just the ravens sharing my sweeping view to the east to Chesil Beach and Portland, and to the west the imposing hulk of Golden Cap, with Lyme Regis and the Jurassic Coast beyond. I'd spend the night at Highway Farm, just west of Bridport, which has the warmest of welcomes from Pauline and John Bale. Their self-catering cottage is cosy, well-equipped and beautifully kept, as are their B&B rooms in the main house. The Bales farmed further inland before they ran this business and they have a tremendous knowledge of the local area and are warm and articulate champions for all that Dorset has to offer. Their food is locally-sourced or homemade, and they are great examples of the notion that the most important ambassador for a place can be the person who gives you your breakfast and talks passionately and knowledgeably about the area they love. As well as providing B&B and self-catering, the Bales host courses in textiles, woodworking and much else besides, arrange fossil walks, produce cook books (for local and Malawian charities) and have a peaceful fishing lake. Highway Farm is so lovely that I could be forgiven for not wanting to venture out, but this is the first decent weather in weeks. The Jurassic Coast is the UK's first natural World Heritage Site, as well as being part of the AONB, and is famed for its fossils. It was here that Mary Anning, the 'founding Mother' of modern palaeontology, proved through her discoveries that women could 'do dinosaurs too' – and better than the men. Fossil hunting is hugely popular here – there's a simple fossil hunting code that everyone should follow – and if you can't find an ammonite of your own then there are plenty of guided fossil hunts available in summer to help you. The sea is constantly reshaping this dynamic coastline, and each fossil revealed is a memory of life hundreds of millions of years old. By the time I reached Charmouth, I'd been reminded that the coves, valleys and cliffs of the South West Coast Path have a great many ups and downs – several ascents of Everest worth on the whole route; I feel I earned my delicious locally-sourced dinner in the Ilchester Arms at Symondsbury that night – and the 'beer miles' were very low too, with some of the local brewery's finest on offer. My journey to Dorset from the North Pennines had been a 10-hour mini-adventure in its own right, and was only possible because of the fantastic bus service along the Dorset coast that provides linear walking opportunities by public transport. The amity and helpfulness of the driver on the number 31 was mirrored in everyone I met, from host to publican and from farmer to shopkeeper. Chris stayed at Highway Farm, near Bridport, which costs from £88 a night B&B. To get there by public transport: take the train to Dorchester South railway station then take the X31 bus to the Bridport stop from where you will be able to see the farm. == Words by Chris Woodley-Stewart

David Atkinson and daughter Maya spend a day hunting for mini sea creatures in the rock pools on Llandanwg Beach, a remote spot on Snowdonia National Park's coastline It’s a bright, wind-gusting day at the beach. We stand on the shingle, looking north towards the Llyn Peninsula and east towards the snow-saddled pyramidal peak of Snowdon. Spring, it feels, is bursting into life around us. Sandwich Terns dive for fish out to sea, while seals and dolphins will bob playfully past this way in summer. My daughter, Maya, and I have come to Llandanwg beach to meet Brian Macdonald of Wildlife Wales, who arranges a weekly programme of guided wildlife trips around a remote stretch Ardudwy coastline between Harlech and Barmouth. Wiltshire-born Brian, a former botanist at Kew Gardens, has made the area his home and now writes a Country Diary-style blog about the local wildlife. He also leads nature walks on northern shore of the River Artro estuary, takes fly-fishing trips and cooks up foraged beach suppers over driftwood fires in summer. But Maya and I are here for a spot of spring rock pooling, hunting for mini-beasts amongst the ecosystem of tide-turned rocks and glistening-green seaweed. “Rock-pooling is a lucky dip,” laughs Brain, explaining that the secret is to find a rock with space underneath and a good smothering of sea-salty reeds. As we clamber over the rocks with green-mesh dipping nets, we find winkles, barnacles and limpets, the latter clinging steadfastly to the rocks. Brian attempts to catch one off guard with a sharp jab of his Wellington boot. “You only get one chance with limpets,” he smiles. “Once they’re startled, they cling on for dear life.” Of our catch, Maya is most impressed by the sea anemone and a solitary prawn, its wiry tentacles feeling the Perspex tank as we hold it up to the sun. Prawns, Brian explains, have what looks like yellow-and-blue stripy socks on their feet and, like crabs, they grow by moulting, casting off their old shells like growing into a new school coat. “How do they make babies?” asks Maya, and Brian explains how the females keep eggs under their tails to be fertilised externally. Back at Y Maes, Llandanwg’s sunshiny beach café, we compile a list of our finds over mugs of hot chocolate and scoops of raspberry ripple ice cream before returning the creatures to the sea. From the beach, we head back into the heart of the Snowdonia National Park, stopping for lunch and a gentle afternoon mooch around the grey-slate market town of Dolgellau, the visitor hub of southern Snowdonia – it's worth remembering that lots of places close on Wednesdays around Dolgellau. Plates of freshly made Welsh rarebit, slices of bread slathered with sautéed leeks, melted cheese and wholegrain mustard, go down a treat at T.H. Roberts, a charmingly traditional independent café. The adapted fittings of the old ironmongers shop are now home to coffee machines, homemade cakes and daily newspapers. After lunch we take a peek at the current exhibition in the upstairs art gallery and I order a fresh-baked loaf of bara brith, a local speciality fruit loaf, to take home. The streets around Eldon Square, the centre of town, are home to lots of interesting little independent shops, notably local deli Popty’r Dref and Grug, a funky little emporium where a collective of local craftspeople showcase their works. The latter is on the ground floor of Ty Siamas, the National Centre for Welsh Folk Music with its exhibition and regular live events. The centre is particularly buzzy during Session Fawr, an annual festival of Welsh music staged in July. To stay on, there are some good accommodation options nearby. To combine Dolgellau with walking the Mawddach Way long-distance trail, the owners of Coed Cae are very knowledgeable about walking routes. Ffynnon is a stylish boutique guesthouse in Dolgellau itself with six homely rooms and a breakfast table heaving with locally sourced produce. Bring your own yellow-and-blue stripy socks.

David Atkinson and daughter Maya spend a day exploring the woodland trails in Coed y Brenin, a mountain-biking centre in Snowdonia National Park We’re going on a treasure hunt. It’s a bright but chilly spring day as Maya, my seven-year-old daughter, and I set off from the Visitor Centre at Coed y Brenin Forest Park just north of Dolgellau. Coed y Brenin is best known as a mountain-biking centre (it’s also on a Sustrans route), but we’ve come to try out some of the new themed walking trails. We start to explore the sun-dappled woodland paths, starting with the Geo-cache Trail. Maya takes charge of the the-lime-green GPS and leads the way, heading southeast along the moss-carpeted trail in search of the first treasure trove. Spring birdlife chirps a cheery greeting as we tramp pass. We follow the arrow to the Viewpoint, a raised bank overlooking the entire 9,000-acre site. The snow-capped Snowdonia range looms stoically beyond the treetops. “Let’s look for mini-beasts,” says Maya. “It’s all twiggy and mossy here, so there must be lots of animals.” We uncover our first geo-cache, a waterproof box, signing the logbook and swopping treasures of a keyring for one of our pencils, before heading on. This is ancient gold-mining territory (the Dolgellau gold rush gripped Snowdonia in the 19th century) and the most dramatic of our finds comes as we pass the Pistyll Cain waterfall and uncover the geo-cahe by the old Gwynfynydd Gold Mine. After a picnic lunch in the sun, spring-migrating birdlife pecking around our boots for crumbs, we go back to the Visitor Centre to pick up one of the new audio trails. We chose to learn about the forest’s giant fir tress trees on the gentle King’s Guards Trails, having first downloaded the MP3 to my phone. This, like the others, is designed so you can walk the whole trail, or dip into it for a few sections. There’s also an Animal Puzzle Trail for young children. Coed y Brenin recently expanded its facilities, adding an overflow cafe, a new bike skills centre and new interpretation material about its gold-mining heritage. Come late afternoon we drive on, skirting Dolgellau on the Tywyn road to Graig Wen, a close-to-nature collection of slate-roofed cottages, secluded yurts and camping, plus a smart, five-bed B&B. We’re staying in the new eco-cabin, a sustainable-built, dismountable structure with a blanket-warmed double futon, a camping stove and a wood-burning fire to ward off bedtime chills. Maya takes to the hobbit-house design straight away, exploring the grounds while I unpack. Graig Wen’s owner, Sarah Heyworth, arrives with a whicker basket of essential utensils and local goodies – local honey, Welshcakes and a bottle of Purple Moose ale from a local microbrewery, amongst them. "The big different between a yurt and the Caban in the Glade,” explains Sarah, “is that, while the yurt feels closer to nature, the caban leaves no trace on the landscape. We dissemble it each year in October. And given the spring we’ve had this year,” she smiles, “it has better insulation.” After unpacking, we walk down through the trees to meet the water-trammeled Mawddach Estuary. The Mawddach Way, a long-distance circular walk around the estuary, passes right by the site and we take a short sun-setting stroll, spotting Ringed Plover along the way. For a longer, car-free day walk, you can walk left out of Graig Wen towards Barmouth, catch the passenger ferry across the estuary and then take the Fairbourne Miniature Railway back to the nearest station at Morfa Mawddach. Dinner that night was a short drive away at the Gwernan Hotel, climbing up to the mythology-shrouded mountain of Cadair Idris to the hearth-warmed little bar and dining room with views across Lake Gwernan. The pub majors on locally sourced produce with mains around £12. My Welsh beef burger, topped with Snowdonia cheese, was hearty and tender, and all the better for a pint of Butty Bach from the Wye Valley Brewery with it. "We know all our producers and suppliers," says manager Geraint Roberts. "That way we’re sure our meat from the butcher in Bala is top quality." That night Maya and I head for bed in our hobbit house under a canvas of sky-illuminating stars. The treasure hunt may have brought us geo-caching trinkets, but a father-daughter bonding night in southern Snowdonia is something far more valuable to treasure. Graig Wen’s Caban in the Glade costs £285 per weekend (Friday-Monday), including a continental breakfast; more information on activities from discoverdolgellau.com.

Our writer, Paul Miles, makes the rocky crossing to car-free Bardsey Island, just off the Llŷn peninsula, to enjoy some birdwatching and local folklore “People used to believe that if they died on Bardsey Island, they went straight to heaven, missing out on purgatory,” says Colin Evans as we stand on the shore of this tiny holy island, known in Welsh as Ynys Enlli. He has just skippered us on a 20-minute crossing through waters swirling with fierce currents from a bay on the Llŷn peninsula. Pilgrims used to brave this two mile stretch of water in rowing boats but we have zipped across, dodging spray, in a boat with two 135Hp engines: not exactly environmentally sound, it has to be said, but it’s the only way for holidaymakers to reach this car-free speck, population eight. Colin tells us more of the history: how there was a population of 92 at its peak and how archaeologists have found no remains of the first, 6th century, abbey (although fragments of the 13th century one still stand) and that the cemetery, where legend says 20,000 early Christians (or ‘saints’) are buried, is “many skeletons deep and sometimes you might find, say, a hip bone coming to the surface.” Whereas once there were nine farms on the 0.7 square mile island, now there’s just one. Sheep and cattle graze and feed crops are grown. The island is half flat, fertile plain and half hill, that the residents call a ‘mountain’. In profile, from the mainland, it looks like a baseball cap. As well as oats and barley for the cattle, there are wildflower meadows for conservation. The island, now owned by a charitable trust, is financially supported by the RSPB and there is a bird observatory. Volunteers assist paid staff to monitor the bird life. Rare, red-billed choughs live here as well as a few puffins and, on the ‘mountain’ two pairs of peregrines nest but it is the population of thousands of Manx shearwaters that birders most associate with Bardsey. These strange, burrowing seabirds have a call that sounds like fighting alley cats. Noisy Atlantic grey seals also make their home here, some 200 of them. But only eight humans, all year round. In the summer, this increases as there are nine holiday homes to rent – the former vicarage and farm cottages, with no mains electricity and water from a spring. The houses straggle along an unpaved track at the foot of the ‘mountain’, facing meadows and fields to a square-sided lighthouse and the sea. Winding up his introductory talk, Colin points ahead of him and says: “If you haven’t been here before, I’d suggest you walk up this track here, have a tea or coffee at Jo and Steve’s house – they also sell water – and then carry on walking.” So that’s exactly what we did. Jo Porter has lived on the island for seven years. “I used to come here on holidays,” she says, as she serves us a cafetiere of coffee at picnic tables outside her house. “I fell in love with the place.” Two nanny goats wander among the tables and Jo shoos them away from her customers. When there aren’t visitors to sell teas and coffees to, she makes felt purses and weaves baskets. “It keeps me busy in the winter,” she says. Her handicrafts are on sale in a small stone-built outhouse. Following sheep tracks among bracken, between lichen-covered rocks, we hiked to the top of the ‘mountain’, that must be all of 300ft high, and paused to admire the view of farmhouse and paddocks in one direction and, in the other, a near vertical drop to the foaming ocean, above which fulmars soared. A little wood mouse peeped out from sweet-smelling bracken and I thought I heard the strange calls of shearwaters in the distance. Then, around some rocks on the spine of the hill, came a troupe of half a dozen children and four adults. They were dressed in cheesecloth shirts, sandals, stripy leggings and floppy hats. One of the women carried a small bucket that was full of clumps of lichen and shells. “We’re going to make a model of the island,” explained a little blonde girl excitedly. “And we’re going to use raisins as the cow poo!” she continued, to giggles. “Which house are you staying in?” asked a man, peering over his designer sunglasses. “We’re not,” we said, “we’re just day-trippers.” But what a perfectly old-fashioned holiday it would be. If you needed inspiration for rainy day activities, there’s a resident artist, in summer anyway. Carole Shearman runs art sessions using recycled and found materials. She showed us prints made from mushroom spores and a dangling mobile made from limpet shells. Near Carole’s studio, past gardens bursting with colourful fuchsias and hebes, along a track, edged with yellow lady’s bedstraw, is the bird observatory. It has a small exhibition on the flora and fauna of the island. You can learn how to distinguish a guillemot from a razorbill and learn why people used to dislike choughs. (“They were once thought to steal lighted candles and use them to set fire to homes,” says a display board.) The bird observatory offers good value accommodation for those who don’t want to rent a whole house. Here, you share kitchen, toilet and washing facilities with others but have your own bedroom. There’s also a library chock-full of books on flora, fauna, geography and history and the chance to assist the warden monitor the island’s birds, whether that’s setting net traps or weighing fluffy shearwater chicks.  If you feel inspired by the fact that the Welsh language is very much alive and well here, you can even partake in many Welsh language and bilingual activities and learning courses at Nant Gwrtheyrn. We peered through the windows of an empty holiday home – simple, period furniture, wooden worktops in the kitchen and a Belfast sink. It all looked lovely. We sat quietly in the chapel for a few minutes and then continued walking towards the lighthouse. Oyster catchers piped frantically from rocks and a ringed plover darted ahead of us. But the wildlife highlight was the seal colony. As we sat above the beach, we watched and listened to dozens of Atlantic grey seals resting on seaweed-covered rocks. They snorted, moaned and roared while slumbering, wobbling and occasionally squabbling. “They’re like badly behaved Brits abroad,” said my friend. Our four hours on the island were over too soon. On the crossing back, Colin skippered the boat below the cliffs. Guillemots flapped madly past us and we spotted puffins by their bright bills. Shags dived below the surface. The sea around the island, as around most of the Llŷn peninsula, is part of one of the largest ‘Special Areas of Conservation’ in the UK, thanks to its diverse habitats and plentiful marine life. That evening we dined on some of it – crab caught by local fishermen and served up in a delicious salad in the very good restaurant of the Ship Hotel in nearby Aberdaron, the setting off point for Bardsey pilgrims for generations. For today’s pilgrims, getting to and from the ‘island of the saints’ is no longer a hardship, it’s a holiday. This article was written by Paul Miles.

As part of our series on the eight Welsh Protected Landscapes, Sian Lewis visits the Gower Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and tries local delicacies, ales and 'Welshman's caviar' Make sure you come hungry both for food and beauty when you pack your bags for Gower. This little peninsula may be of modest size at just 70-square miles, but it's magically packed with wonderful places to explore, from epic stretches of perfect coastline to moorland villages, quiet woodlands and proud stone castles. It stands to reason that the place where Dylan Thomas loved to ramble be well known for its natural beauty and wealth of history, but one of my favourite reasons to head to this magical corner of South Wales is the incredible local produce on offer. Food here is fresh, plentiful and simply prepared to show off the flavours of the land, salt marsh, moorland and sea. The reason Gower's grub is so fabulous lies in its geography. Until the twentieth century the peninsula acted rather like an island, cut off from the wider world due to poor roads and a lack of trainlines. Locals had to be self sufficient to some degree and turned to the land and the water for sustenance. An emphasis on fresh, locally sourced delicacies is as strong on Gower now as it ever was. Ready for a gastronomical safari? It's impossible not to come back from the peninsula laden with handmade treats. For a caffeine buzz to kick start a day of exploring outdoors try Gower Coffee, created by surf-loving local Marcus Luporini. Each blend is named for one of the local beaches, with the strength of the bean matched by the intensity of the break. Try their Slade Bay roast and you'll be hooked. After something a little stronger? The peninsula's very own Gower Brewery creates a heavenly, award-winning nectar known as Gower Gold. If there was ever a reason to stop off for a long pub lunch it's to sample a pint of it - best served cold after a long day wandering on the cliffs in the sunshine. As for the main course, the flavours of the coast are ever present. Local women from the North Gower villages of Crofty and Penclawdd once picked cockles in the Burry Inlet, striding out into the marshes barefoot even in the depths of winter to gather the fruits of the sea and pack them off to Swansea on the backs on donkeys. You can still buy cockles from stalls in Swansea market today, although the times have changed a little and now it's hardy Landrovers out working the sands. At Selwyn Seaweeds the Selwyn family still collects cockles, mussels and delicious seaweed, which is sold to local restaurants to make 'Welshman's caviar' or laverbread, or dried in strips as a tasty snack. If there's one taste of Gower you must try it's the enticingly-named salt marsh lamb. Sheep graze the marshes eating samphire and sea lavender, and the result is a delicate flavour you'll dream of for weeks afterwards. If you visit Weobley Castle pop in to the farm shop next door and buy a shank of lamb from Gower Marsh Salt Lamb to take home. Round off dinner with something sweet. Kate Jenkin's award-winning brownies, made from her cottage kitchen with fresh Gower free-range eggs, have achieved a cult status among chocolate-obsessed foodies. Be warned if you decide to try one - you'll be hooked forever on a cocoa high. Gower changes dramatically with the seasons, and so do my gastronomical explorations. On a cold winter's day head I always head to Reynoldston and warm up at my favourite pub - the King Arthur Hotel. The ever-blazing fire in the bar is heaven after a tramp on the moors, especially with a local ale and a plate of something hearty. When summer arrives Gower is ablaze with colour, from the green cliffs to bright market stalls. At Nicholston Farm you can really get among all the produce yourself and pick your own raspberries and strawberries and veggies such as broad beans and asparagus. From pub grub to a doorstop-sized slice of cake in a cafe, you'll always eat well on Gower. But if you're after something extra special I'd suggest two must-try eateries. The Coalhouse may be new but it has already amassed an army of fans of its beautifully restored interior, stunning panoramic views of the coast and, of course, its marvellous menu. If you struggle to pick from the fabulous selection on offer I'd suggest the hake, cockle and laverbread chowder. From the coast head inland to Gower's woodlands and seek out Fairyhill Hotel's restaurant. Head Chef David Whitecross sources all his ingredients within a 10-mile radius, including veggies from the walled garden and eggs from the ducks wandering about in the hotel's grounds. It's definitely worth turning up early for a stroll around the beautiful parkland surrounding Fairyhill's ivy-clad walls before tucking into a showcase of local flavours such as sea bass, Welsh black beef and laverbread.

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Pembrokeshire Coast, here is our guide to how to travel to and around the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park without a car. A forward thinking local partnership that integrates public transport in the area has made it cheap, comfortable and hassle-free to travel car-free to some of the country's finest beaches. Getting to the Pembrokeshire Coast without a car By Train: The Pembrokeshire Coast and surrounding area is well served by the rail network, with major stations at Tenby, Haverfordwest, and Fishguard. Lying on the West Wales Lines, they are all served by regular services from Swansea, as well as trains right through from Manchester, as well as to Tenby from London Paddington. Most of the time, visitors from the rest of Wales and Britain will have to change at Swansea for the last part of the journey to the Pembrokeshire Coast; Swansea has regular mainline services from a range of destinations across the country, including Cardiff and London. Transport for Wales (formerly Arriva Trains Wales) also operates local services to Whitland, Pembroke Dock, and Milford Haven. By Coach or Bus: As well as local Pembrokeshire buses serving the National Park, various destinations along the Pembrokeshire Coast, such as Haverfordwest, Pembroke Dock, and Tenby are served by National Express and/or Megabus from London, Cardiff, Bristol, and several other destinations. By Ferry: If you are coming from Ireland, you can take the ferry from Rosslare to Fishguard or Pembroke Dock (both handily connecting into the rail and bus networks), with either Stena Line or Irish Ferries respectively. Getting around the Pembrokeshire Coast without a car By Train: Once in Pembrokeshire, the train is not necessarily the easiest way to travel around the National Park, however local services on the West Wales Lines do cover several destinations close to and within the National Park, and the branch along the south coast of Pembrokeshire takes in some lovely scenery. For more details and timetables, see: Arriva Trains Wales. By bus: Pembrokeshire Coast National Park has an excellent network of buses that skirt beach and cliff to take you right to many of the popular beaches, villages and towns along the coast. The Coastal Bus services consist of five main interconnecting routes (plus the 315 Between Dale, Milford Haven and Haverfordwest, the 349 running from Tenby west to Pembroke, and the 351 from Tenby east to Amroth). Each service runs along a different section of the famous coastline. There are PDFs of the following routes at: https://www.pembrokeshire.gov.uk/bus-routes-and-timetables/bus-routes-list-coastal-buses 387/388: ‘The Coastal Cruiser’ circles around the Pembroke Peninsula 400: ‘The Puffin Shuttle’, runs from St Davids to Martin's Haven 403: ‘The Celtic Coaster’ skirts the St Davids peninsula 404: ‘The Strumble Shuttle’ from St Davids to Fishguard 405: ‘The Poppit Rocket’ from Cardigan to Fishguard via Newport There are good connections with the railway network at Tenby (routes 349 & 351), Pembroke Dock (the ‘Coastal Cruiser’, route 387/388), Milford Haven (the ‘Puffin Shuttle’, the route 315), and Fishguard (the ‘Strumble Shuttle’, route 404 & the ‘Poppit Rocket’, route 405). These buses have different winter and summer timetables, but run year-round, and are supplemented by further buses criss-crossing the Pembrokeshire peninsula. For more details of all the routes and timetables in the area, see the Pembrokeshire council bus services mini-site. By bike: Pembrokeshire’s glorious coast features miles of well-maintained roads, including numerous quiet country lanes, which are virtually traffic free. The National Park is also criss-crossed by bridleways, and offers fantastic off-road biking opportunities. Cycling can be the ideal way to get to a hidden cove or hill-top view, just be sure not to cycle on footpaths such as the Coast Path if they are not specifically indicated as bike-appropriate routes. You can take bikes on most mainline train services, however places are limited so you should always reserve a space at least 24 hours in advance, by calling up the train operator (reservations are free - call 0333 3211 202, which is open 0800 – 2000 Monday to Saturday and 1100 – 2000 Sunday), or head to your local railway station ticket office. On local services in Pembrokeshire, reservations will not always be available and it will depend on space and business on individual services. Sadly, for the time being bikes cannot be taken on buses in the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, due to the generally small size of the vehicles. The map on the National Park cycling page can help you to plan your route around the Pembrokeshire Coast, and better yet Cycle Pembrokeshire offers a range of inspiring routes to try, see: Cycle Breaks, including some fantastic interactive maps. You can search for individual cycle routes around Pembrokeshire and the rest of Wales at GPS Cycle and Walking Routes in Wales. You could also find out about the work of Sustrans in Pembrokeshire and the rest of Wales, including useful information for cyclists at Sustrans Cymru. For more information, see Pembrokeshire Coast National Park cycling. Maps and further information If you’re looking for more tailored-made help and advice for your trip to the Pembrokeshire Coast, visit the National Park’s visitor centre at Oriel y Parc, St Davids where the well-trained staff can give you lots of handy local advice, as well as plenty of maps, guides and leaflets. For the latest news, see the official website of the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park. For information about where to stay, eat, local attractions and outdoor adventure, see: Green Traveller's Guide to Pembrokeshire

Nick Stewart introduces an innovative scheme in the Brecon Beacons that involves local tourism businesses championing the uniqueness of the National Park The Brecon Beacon Ambassadors Scheme aims to provide visitors with an insight into what makes the park so special. Selected 'Ambassadors' are usually owners of local businesses who have undergone several days of training to help them share with visitors the distinctiveness of the Park's wildlife, history, cultural heritage and geology. While the National Park Authority staff (such as the wardens you might see out on the hills) are the official representatives, the Ambassadors are informal advocates of the area. Examples of Ambassadors include Punch Maughan, Glynmeddig Bunkhouse, Sennybridge, Ceri Scott Howell, Coity Bach Cottages, Talybont-on-Usk, and Keith White, Brynhonddu B&B, Abergavenny. The idea of the scheme is that by learning about the special qualities of the destination such as the wildlife, history, cultural heritage and geology, the Ambassadors are able to enhance their visitors’ understanding and appreciation of the place they are holidaying in. It’s all about the experience: getting under the skin and appreciating the special and distinctive qualities of the Brecon Beacons. In tourism circles, it’s part of what is known as creating a ‘sense of place’ – a sense that where you are is different to everywhere else. It’s done through the use of local food for example, the use of local arts and crafts in decor and the telling of true stories or myths and legends specific to the area. There’s a serious conservation aspect to training up tourism Ambassadors too. Since they have attended days of training to give visitors a better understanding of the Brecon Beacons National Park, in this way it’s hoped that tourists will leave - and come back - as keen supporters of the protected landscape. Ambassador businesses range from accommodation providers to pub landlords to walks and other activity-based businesses. The Brecon Beacons National Park Authority has gone further than this though by laying on a subset of the Ambassadors training specifically for taxi-drivers. Aptly named the ‘National Park Knowledge’ – a name that might make anyone who knows anything about London black cab driver training smile – these taxi drivers can give visitors more than just a ride to their destination. If you fancy more than your usual salt-of-the-earth cabbie type chat whilst on holiday, using a National Park Knowledge driver will reveal some interesting nuggets of information as you journey en route to your destination. Subjects National Park Ambassadors cover include ‘Sense of Place’, ‘Customer Care’ and something delightfully called ‘Park in Your Heart’ which gives a trot through 480 million years of geology and wildlife as well as topics like how climate change might impact on the Brecon Beacons – and how tourism businesses and their guests can help to mitigate these changes through the use of public transport for example. There are always more keen budding Ambassadors than there are places on courses which says something about the enthusiasm and appetite of local businesses to learn about and promote sustainable tourism wrapped up with giving their customers richer, more distinctive experiences. Details of the Ambassadors scheme can be found on the Brecon Beacons National Park Authority’s website: http://www.breconbeacons.org

As part of our celebration of the Wye Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, Abi Whyte walks her favourite stretch and finds industrial relics, Cistercian ruins and a view that inspired one of our greatest poets. Whenever I think of the Wye Valley, I think of lush forested hills, carpets of bluebells and wild garlic and, of course, that meandering river winding through sleepy villages and historic market towns. I don’t often think of its industrial past but indeed there was a time, from the 16th to 19th century, that the Wye Valley was one of the most important industrial hubs in the UK. Surprisingly, amid the churn of waterwheels, the hammering of iron and the roaring of furnaces, wandered visitors drawn by its natural beauty. The ‘Wye Tour’ from Ross-on-Wye to Chepstow became fashionable and so it was that this area can be considered as the birthplace of British tourism. Day trippers, artists, writers and poets have all drawn life-affirming inspiration from the Wye Valley’s natural beauty, picturesque topography and romantic ruins. Today, the bulk of the industry has gone but the extraordinary beauty remains and I was here to see it in all its splendour on my mini pilgrimage from Monmouth to Tintern Abbey, the oldest Cistercian abbey in Wales. This 10-mile walk follows part of the Wye Valley Walk, a 136-mile route from Chepstow near where the Wye joins the Severn to the river's source on Plynlimon (also the source of the Severn). I set off from Monmouth on a cold winter morning, the river high and running rapidly after a deluge upstream the day before. Across the river I could see the enormous Monmouth viaduct, a relic of the Wye Valley Railway that closed in 1959. I soon came across another railway remnant in Redbrook; an old iron bridge that I crossed over to Penallt and its very inviting looking Boat Inn. But it was early in the morning and the pub wasn’t open yet so I moved on, following the river past trees dripping with lichen and moss. I soon came to Whitebrook, a hamlet once famed for its wireworks and paper mills that produced banknotes and wallpaper. Today Whitebrook is best known for its Michelin-starred restaurant owned by head chef Chris Harrod. Chris is all too aware of the edible bounty the Wye Valley has to offer, and is often out with his foraging basket gathering yarrow, fennel and chanterelles to wow his diners. For his lunchtime menu at The Whitebrook he'd even managed to find the sort of things you'd expect to gather along the seashore, such as rock samphire and scurvy grass, which he'd picked along the Wye's estuary. "I'm literally putting the Wye Valley on a plate - it's a constant source of inspiration," he told me, feeding me with pheasant and pumpkin canapes before it was time for me to head off again. The Wye Valley Walk took me away from the river and up into the steep forested hills onto the Duchess Ride, so named for being the Duchess of Beaufort's favourite ride in her carriage. Along the ride are perfectly situated benches offering views out over the Wye on its way to Chepstow. I could even make out the white towers of the Severn Bridge in the distance. I imagined trows (flat-bottomed boats specifically built for the Wye and Severn) laden with copper, wire, wallpaper and limestone, making their slow way down river heading to the Welsh Back docks in Bristol and out into the world of the early British Empire. After a rest and a flask of tea, I came to Cleddon Falls, cascading high above the village of Llandogo. Nearby are the Bread and Cheese Stones, a famous viewpoint supposedly where William Wordsworth in 1798 sat and wrote the poem Lines Written a Few Miles Above Tintern Abbey in 1798. From then on it was downhill through dense forest, past moss-covered stone walls and snowdrops, until I came to the Tintern Old Station across the A466. This rather special place is a perfect example of what to do with a derelict railway station – simply turn it into an award-winning tearoom and picnic area, complete with a signal box art gallery and revamped railway carriages housing a visitor information area and a shop. The site even has its own Circle of Legends carved wooden statues depicting local, historical and mythical Welsh figures. I was back at the river's edge and so close to Tintern I could almost smell a joint of Welsh lamb roasting in one its pubs. Or was I imagining it? My pace quickened as I followed the last bend of the river into this beautiful village with a restored working watermill and historic quayside. There can be no doubt that the Abbey is the star of the show; I've gazed up at the haunting ruin so many times, but somehow walking 10 miles to see it made the experience more memorable. After a Sunday roast at The Rose & Crown and a quick stop at Parva Farm Vineyard to buy a bottle of Welsh mead, it was time to unlace the muddy walking boots and dry out my waterproofs in front of a fire – in my very own log cabin at Kingstone Brewery on the edge of Tintern. As well as being a very talented micro-brewer (trust me, I've tried his ale), Ed Biggs also owns and runs a glamping village of shepherd's huts, cabins and bell tents on his meadow. Legs tired, belly full and a glass of local mead quaffed, it's safe to say I slept pretty well that night in my little wooden cabin, with the Wye river murmuring close by.

The Spanish city of Valencia is measuring the carbon footprint generated by tourism as part of a new Sustainable Tourist Strategy 2030. Visit Valencia has already carried out a study with Global Omnium that measured the sources of carbon emissions produced by tourism activity in ten different areas, including public and private infrastructure; water management; solid waste; transport to and within the city; tourists, day visitors and cruise passengers; and accommodation. The research found that "all tourism activity produced 1.3 million tonnes of CO2 in 2019, of which 81% related to tourists’ transport to the city but only 0.92% to the use of transport within the city". Just 0.01% of the tourism footprint came from water consumption and emissions from all tourist activity are equivalent to one third of the carbon footprint generated by residents’ food consumption. The report findings have been certified by the Spanish Association for Standardisation and Certification (AENOR). Visit Valencia says it has become "the first in the world to verify its carbon emissions from tourist activity", the first step in a commitment to become a carbon-neutral destination by 2025. Valencia already has two million square metres of gardens, notably the Turia Gardens and the Viveros, which act as the green lungs of the city absorbing carbon emissions; as well as 20 kilometres of European Blue Flag status beaches. Travellers are also able to explore the city on 150 kilometres of cycle paths and 40 ciclocalles (cycle-priority streets). In addition, the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences provides an eye-opening insight into what is capable at the cutting-edge of new technology and innovation. Visit Valencia’s strategy is examining the potential for energy generation using renewable sources, the possibility of having a fully electric transport system given its flat orography and maximising natural spaces such as the Turia Gardens or La Albufera in absorbing CO2. Further information: www.visitvalencia.com

by Richard Hammond Update: I travelled on the Climate Train on Saturday 30 October and have produced this short video about the youth activists on board the train who were determined to hold the politicians to account at COP: Previously: Eurostar has announced it will be running a special service from Amsterdam, Rotterdam and Brussels to Glasgow via London for delegates to travel to COP26. The 'Climate Train' Eurostar service will depart Amsterdam Central on 30th October travelling to London St. Pancras International via Brussels-Midi. From here passengers will travel to London Euston to board an Avanti West Coast service to Glasgow Central. The initiative is a partnership between ProRail, Eurostar, NS, Avanti West Coast and Youth for Sustainable Travel. In 2019, young people from Youth for Sustainable Travel organised a sailing trip to the Climate Summit in Chile. After the summit was moved to Madrid, they called on other young people in Europe to visit the climate summit by train. This initiative, called 'Sail to the COP', is now followed up with 'Rail to the COP'. Eurostar says that 'Rail to the COP' will bring together "as diverse a group as possible from all over Europe". Frans Timmermans, European Commissioner, said: "What could be nicer than travelling by train to an international climate summit? The train is sustainable and provides a lot of comfort, whether you travel for work or pleasure. More and more passengers in Europe are recognising the advantages of travelling by rail. We want to increase this number in the coming years by, for example, doubling the amount of high-speed train traffic and making international rail travel even easier. I am really looking forward to leaving for Glasgow by train with our delegation." During the trip, Youth for Sustainable Travel and the rail partners will organise a series of debates and seminars to draw attention to the important role that rail and sustainable travel can play in achieving the global Climate Change Goals. Green Traveller's Guide to How to travel to COP26 by public transport Eurostar launches direct train between London and Amsterdam (return)

(Updated January 2020) The Observer's Travel section headline article this weekend was:  Are you being greenwashed? "From B&Bs to Boeing, everyone is jumping on the environmental bandwagon, but how can we be sure that what they promise is what they deliver?" by award-winning journalist, Tom Robbins (now the travel editor of the Financial Times, Jan 2020). "Of course many firms are genuinely improving their environmental and ethical performance and are doing so with only the best motives. But others have more cynical intentions - recognising a potent new marketing tool, they are exaggerating how green, sustainable, ethical and responsible they are. The problem is working out who's doing their bit, and who's just cashing in on eco-guilt." Read the full article on Greenwashing in Tourism. Also featured in The Observer: Seven Steps to More Responsible Travel, by Liane Katz and GreenTraveller's Richard Hammond. The Expert Panel: 'Which is your favourite eco escape?" (with contributions from GreenTraveller's Richard Hammond; Lucy Siegle, Observer Ethical Correspondent; Ed Gillespie, Slow Travel exponent and co-founder of Futerra; Pat Thomas, editor, The Ecologist; Harriet Lamb, executive director, The Fairtrade Foundation).

As we launch our Green Traveller's Guide to Suffolk Coast and Heaths, Juliette Dyke discovers a slower way to see the sights as she travels under her own steam and on buses, trains and a rather quaint ferry. I’m the first to admit that I’m a nervous driver. As a Londoner, it’s not a problem as I have access to a plentiful supply of tubes, trains and buses, and so can merrily ignore the car for weeks at a time. However, when it comes to exploring the countryside, this state of denial becomes a bit of an issue. Rural public transport can be patchy and some bus services have suffered badly from cutbacks in recent years. Often it seems much easier just to hop in the car to reach the nearest lovely garden or historic house (with my boyfriend at the wheel yet again, bribed heavily with promises of cake), rather than spend time pouring over train timetables and OS maps in order to figure out how we’ll get there. However, it’s hard to ignore the fact that congestion is becoming a real problem in many popular and beautiful parts of our countryside. So when I decided to explore Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB, I was keen to prove that it is possible to travel around without clogging up its narrow country lanes. After all, with three long distance paths and miles of cycle routes, bridleways and plenty of open access land, it sounds like an ideal place for the car-less to visit. My first port of call was Southwold on the northern edge of the AONB, which is easily reached by train to nearby Halesworth, followed by a short bus journey into town. From there you can take the ‘ferry’ from Southwold to Walberswick, which actually consists of rowing boat expertly navigated by one lady captain who charges 90p each way for what has to be the most memorable morning commute in England. Once across, it’s a short stroll into Walberswick, or you can then pick up the scenic Suffolk Coast Path to Dunwich, either along the shingle beach or inland via Walberswick Nature Reserve and DIngle Marshes or along the edge of Dunwich Forest. For cyclists, you can bring your bike on the train then join the local cycle routes from Ipswich and Woodbridge, or park at Darsham and Halesworth and then access the area by bike from there. Woodbridge itself is a great base for exploring some of the most popular local tourist attractions. There are regular bus services to Snape Maltings and the pretty coastal town of Aldeburgh, and the ancient Saxon burial ground of Sutton Hoo is within walking distance along the Deben Estuary. The National Trust will even give you a discount on your entry fee if you arrive without a car. So would I do it again? Well the best thing about exploring the AONB on foot was discovering all those quiet, hidden corners that I would never have seen by car. Stopping to ask locals for directions would often lead to friendly chats, offers of tea and some excellent insider recommendations. Sometimes it was frustrating having to wait for a bus and it did require a little extra organisation, but if you’re prepared to slow down, savour the details, and be open to the places and faces that come your way, then you’re in for an absolutely priceless experience. For bus timetables and details about the Coast Link service, visit www.suffolkonboard.com For information on walking and cycling routes visit www.discoversuffolk.org.uk For train timetables, visit www.greateranglia.co.uk Where to stay The Crown Inn is a 15th century smugglers inn, close to Snape Maltings and its world famous concert hall. They offer two en-suite B&B rooms, both stylishly decorated but still retaining a traditional feel with their old beams and sloping floors. Cheerful hosts Gary and Teresa Cook have run the Crown Inn since 2007 and are justifiably proud of their menu which includes their own home reared meats and produce from the allotment. Amongst the locally sourced dishes I tried were a delicate goat’s cheese tart, made with milk from their Anglo Nubian goats, and Dover Sole landed at Orford Quay that same morning. By all accounts the potted pork is also one of the stars of the menu, but having met Gary and Tessa’s resident pigs and even learned their names, I didn’t have the heart to order it. Which, according to the locals, makes me a big ‘city softie’. The Crown Inn is only a five minute walk to Snape Maltings, where you can enjoy lunch at Café 1885 or a sit outside the Granary Tea Room overlooking the River Alde and tuck in to a delicious cream tea. By Juliette Dyke

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale AONB, here's our guide to how to how to travel there without a car. Photos: Diana Jarvis/Green Traveller Getting to Arnside & Silverdale AONB by public transport It's possible to take the train right into the heart of the Arnside and Silverdale AONB: there are two stations actually within the AONB: Arnside station and Silverdale station, while just outside the AONB is Carnforth station (made famous by the film Brief Encounter). The Trans-Pennine Express services connect Lancaster with Barrow-in-Furness via all three stations. From Lancaster, you can change onto mainline services, and there are frequent and direct trains to London Euston (2hr 24 mins), Manchester (58 minutes hours) and Birmingham (1hr 52 mins). For more information and to book tickets, see tpexpress.co.uk Though the trains are a great way to reach the AONB, they're not just a means of transportation... given the superb scenery from the train, travelling around by train in this part of the country is a wonderful journey in itself and a great day trip. See our feature on the great train journey Carnforth to Barrow-in-Furness. To book tickets see: furnessline.co.uk Silverdale station is also ideally situated for visiting one of the area’s main attractions, Leighton Moss RSPB Nature Reserve (250m walk from the station). Visitors arriving by public transport get free entry! Beyond Barrow, you can continue on the scenic West Coast Line to Carlisle, stopping at Foxfield, Kirkby in Furness and Ravenglass along the way. For details on steamtrains that run this scenic route, see ravenglass-railway.co.uk Getting around the Arnside & Silverdale AONB by public transport The Silverdale Shuttle bus service aims to meet trains arriving into Silverdale and runs a meandering circular route to the village centre, stopping wherever people need to disembark along the way. It’s a friendly hail and ride service, so just let the driver know where to drop you off. The service runs Monday-Saturday, except public holidays. For more information and to book tickets see: lancashire.gov.uk/corporate/web/?Bus_Services/19923 Regular Stagecoach Bus services run throughout the area, calling in at villages along the way, including: Kendal to Arnside (551, 552; 40 mins; Mon-Sat); Keswick to Lancaster via Milnthorpe and Carnforth (555); and Lancaster and Carnforth to the Yealands (55). For more information and to book tickets see: stagecoachbus.com The eastern side of the AONB is less-well served by public transport, but is criss crossed with walking routes and easily-traversed by bike. For more information on cycling routes and bike hire, see Jo Keeling's blog featured on Cycling in Arnside and Silverdale

4 Feb 2020: As Eurostar launches its new direct service both to and from the Netherlands, Richard Hammond joins the inaugural service from Amsterdam Centraal. Since 2018, Eurostar has carried over half a million passengers on its service from London St Pancras to Amsterdam (and Rotterdam), but on the return journey, passengers have to disembark at Brussels to go through passport control (adding about an hour to the journey time). With the launch of this new service, passport check-in is now carried out at Amsterdam Centraal station before passengers board the direct train through to London. The train does still stop at Brussels to pick up passengers, but those who boarded at Amsterdam no longer have to disembark and go through passport control at Brussels. This cuts the overall journey time significantly - it will now be just over 4 hours (4 hours 9 minutes) to go from Amsterdam to London, door to door. The new service will start from 30th April from Amsterdam and 18th May from Rotterdam. Tickets will be from £35 each way and will go on sale from 11th February. Eurostar tickets can be booked at www.eurostar.com or via the Eurostar contact centre on 03432 186 186. Cora van Nieuwenhuizen, Minister of Infrastructure and Water Management in the Netherlands, said: “The direct connection makes the train journey to London easier and faster. Checks in Brussels will no longer be necessary, saving travellers an hour of travel time. This way the train really becomes a fully-fledged alternative to the plane.” Video of the inaugural Eurostar service this morning at Amsterdam Centraal railway station: Mike Cooper, Chief Executive, Eurostar, said: “Our fully direct service marks an exciting advance for high-speed rail and provides consumers with a comfortable, environmentally friendly alternative to the airlines on one of Europe’s busiest leisure and business routes.” By Richard Hammond == Richard Hammond was also on the first Eurostar from Brussels to London St Pancras, read his article in the Guardian: Brussels to London in a blur

In all our articles, photographs and films we try to show characterful places, real people doing real things and insightful experiences that benefit biodiversity conservation and local communities. Here is a selection of our favourite experiences from the year, as chosen by our team of contributors Paul Bloomfield, Sarah Baxter, Rhiannon Batten, Harriet O'Brien, Mark Rowe, Ginny Light, Jini Reddy, Holly Rooke and Richard Hammond. Best rural accommodation One of Greentraveller's film unit stayed at Rural Casa Mas Garganta, Catalonia while producing a video about the Catalan Pyrenees: From the Summits to the Sea (which will be out in early 2018). It's a beautifully renovated 14th Century farmhouse on a hill overlooking the D'en Bas valley close to the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park in the Catalan Pyrenees. Richard said: "It's about as homely as you could imagine, and in a ridiculously picturesque setting. The cosy fireplace was just what you wanted to come home to after a day's filming." Short clip showing the exterior and setting of Mas Garganta: Best group gathering In early December Rhiannon and family joined friends for a birthday celebration at Dartington Hall in Devon, and it was an ideal setting for an all-ages group. The accommodation was as comfortable and decadent as many a hotel. There were cosy private lounges for sitting and chatting plus a spectacular 14th Century Great Hall for a birthday supper and ceilidh. Children had the run of the site’s stunning gardens, and playground. And with a pub, cinema and various cafes on site, there were plenty of spaces for individual families and old friends to slip away to between whole-group activities. Plus Dartmoor on the doorstep for longer blustery walks. Best summer escape A review trip for Olive Magazine took Rhiannon to Levendis Estate on the Ionian island of Ithaca in the summer and she’s now dreaming of returning for a family holiday. Run by an Aussie-Greek couple, Spero and Marilyn Raftopulos - plus their (grown-up) children, Kate and Niko - this collection of four cottages plus swimming pool, is set on Spero’s family homestead. Cottage kitchens are pre-stocked with delicious Greek wine, olives and pistachios for that first holiday sundowner (plus peach juice, bread, tea, coffee, milk, homemade jams, local thyme honey, freshly laid eggs and own-recipe muesli for the first morning’s breakfast). The estate opens a coffee shop each morning, which also acts as a reception of sorts; whether you want to stock up on Levendis’ homegrown olives or local bread, order a ready meal or barbecue pack, borrow a coolbox or pick up a map of walks. For getting out to local villages, restaurants and beaches, you can pedal off on one of the estate’s bikes, or use the hire cars that all cottages come with (the only charge is for petrol) - beach towels and beach bags are left in the cars ready to go and sunhats and jelly shoes are there for the borrowing too. Most inspirational Eco Resort As part of the series 'Transforming Our World' we produced for WTTC (see earlier), we helped put together this short film (with destination footage by the incredible Shawn Heinrichs) about Misool - an eco resort in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, which won the Environment Award in this year's Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. Here's their story: Best sunrise Greentraveller's films crews spent much of the autumn and early winter filming the coast of England for the National Coastal Tourism Academy's England's Coast project (due in early 2018). These films capture landscape as well as visitor attractions, so the filming days were from dawn til dusk, and one of the best things about these trips are the early mornings at some of England's finest coastal locations. Richard's favourite was sunrise at Lulworth Cove in Dorset. Best unexpected wildness On a trip to Cyprus, Sarah Baxter got up early, headed away from the touristy beach resorts and hiked down the Avakas Gorge before anyone else arrived. Just her and the goats, stream-splashing and squeezing through an ever-narrowing rocky ravine. Spectacular. Best wildlife experience in UK Watching puffins flying in and out of their nests at Sumburgh head on Shetland was the most magical wildlife encounter of the year for Mark and his family. “You could watch them from a drystone wall, you were completely unobtrusive but you could even see their chests breathe in and out” says Mark. “The kids were utterly overawed by it.” Best café Castle Cary, in Somerset, made it firmly onto Rhiannon's local food map this year. Joining long-standing culinary businesses like Levant and Charlie Hill Butcher and Pie Maker are newcomers such as the Somerset Wine Company and Home - a veggie café run by Paul and Fiona Mattesini. “Home’s unpretentious, wholesome, modern cooking also happens to be delicious,” says Rhiannon. “I stopped off with my son and had a fabulous African peanut soup - smooth and rich with just a hint of chilli and a scattering of crunchy roast chickpeas - and the signature warm haloumi salad while my son approved so highly of his sponge cake with fresh cream and blackcurrant jam that it was gone before I’d managed to forage a single crumb”. Best Community-owned pub The Cat and Custard Pot is a shining example of community spirit, say Harriet O'Brien. It's a handsome old inn bought by four local families in 2014 in order to ensure it remained a proper, traditional facility for the village. "And so it is" says Harriet. "it’s an honest-to-goodness pub with a fine range of ales, a generous bar area, horse brasses, comfy chairs, log burner and excellent food sourced from the area and priced very reasonably. Set in the pretty Cotswold village of Shipton Moyne, the pub is close to Westonbirt and Highgrove and occasionally attracts A-list customers - who blend in with others enjoying this place of warmth, quality and pleasing simplicity." Most inspirational personal story Evalyn Sintoya Mayetu's journey is a remarkable one, says Richard. Against considerable odds, she managed to get herself an education in remote part of rural Kenya, learnt to be a safari spotter and eventually became a full qualified safari guide at Naboisho Camp in the Masai Mara. Greentraveller's film crew interviewed her as part of a series of films Greentraveller produced for the World Travel and Tourism Council called Transforming Our World. Here she tells her story: Most remote experience For Mark, a seasoned international travel writer, this was actually in the UK, walking around the lochs of South Uist in the late evening midsummer light. “At 10.30pm it was still light, there was no-one around and the outline of the South Uist mountains was diamond sharp. I walked past a picked-clean sheep’s skull, saw a hobby munching a dragonfly and swans motionless on Loch Druidibeg. South Uist is the edge of the UK and it really looked the part.” Best father and daughter experience Walking up Helvellyn via Striding Edge with his daughter Hannah (12) was Mark’s most exhilarating moment of the year. The loop from the village of Glenridding took 4.5 hours up and down and involved an impromptu bit of running along Striding Edge, the narrow ledge that leads from the Hole in the wall to the summit. “We didn’t plan it but we do a lot of running together and it kind of made sense” says Mark. Lives up to the hype Paul Bloomfield's friends had waxed lyrical about the Picos de Europa range in northern Spain, but a week-long hike from east to north-west was even better than he'd hoped: "nearly empty trails, craggy limestone peaks, dozens of soaring birds of prey, wildflowers galore, terrific blue cheeses and, in the Cares Gorge, one of the most spectacular canyon walks in Europe." Best Big Data initiative As part of the series 'Transforming Our World' we produced for WTTC (see earlier), we helped put together this short film about The Nature Conservancy's Mapping Ocean Wealth Project, which aims to put an economic value on coral reefs. It won the Innovation Award in this year's Tourism for Tomorrow Awards. Here's their story: Best bike ride for softies Via Verde from Horta de Sant Joan to Benifallet, Catalonia. Picasso loved Horta, but Paul Bloomfield couldn't wait to get out. Not that he thought there's anything wrong with this attractive, historic little town on the edge of Els Ports National Park, "but the bike path winding through the countryside below the town towards Tortosa was irresistable, snaking gently downhill for dozens of miles past rocky canyons, craggy outcrops and forested gorges. Easy, but epic." Best welcome At Easter Rhiannon Batten and family headed to Cauterets for a first family ski trip. Not only were they blessed with both snow and sunshine but their base, an apartment at the family-run Hotel Lion D’Or, couldn’t have been more comfortable, or welcoming. “We knew we were off to a good start when we arrived to find a jug of fresh lilacs, a straight-from-the-oven gingerbread loaf and a jar of homemade marmalade waiting for us in the kitchen,” says Rhiannon. Best discovery This summer Sarah traced some of the Stop Line Green, the defensive line erected in the 1940s in case the Germans invaded. She'd never heard of it before she started researching, but pieced together a section mere miles from her doorstep, seeking out the trenches and pillboxes that still exist – a great excuse for a long walk. Best hostel stay In 2017 Rhiannon Batten continued her rediscovery of the YHA (youth hostel association) with several stays. One of the most memorable, however, was a Father’s Day weekend trip to YHA Street, staying in a cosy family room and venturing out to swim in the local outdoor pool, Greenbank Pool, and eat from a hyper-locally sourced menu at Bocabar in nearby Glastonbury. Independent hostels also got a look-in from the Batten household this year, notably the Kyle Blue in Bristol (pictured below), a geothermally heated barge moored up near Cargo, the city’s growing container park restaurant enclave, and the must-visit SS Great Britain. The smartly refurbished boat has a custom-built kitchen, decent showers, a large lounge area (wifi is free) and a range of bedrooms, including doubles, dorms and family rooms. Best Winter Activity Holly discovered dog sledding in the Catalan Pyrenees, the perfect way to experience the beauty of the snowy mountains away from the bustle of ski resorts. “We were lucky enough to be the dogs first outing of the winter. After a whole summer of training, their excitement, and the excitement of the musher Marc, added an amazing energy to the experience.” Best small island escape Jini was charmed by the Hebridean island of Iona. "It’s small and magical, an ancient landscape where the veil between worlds feels thin. If you’re the reflective sort who loves to walk you’ll feel instantly at ease. There are hidden coves, white-sand beaches filled with tiny cowrie shells, bays full of serpentine stones, lush glens and wild, mysterious corners to explore, away from the day-trippers who, in season, throng the village. I loved it in the sunshine, and in the fierce rain and wind too. ‘I stayed at Torrasa, a B&B on a farm with sheep and a horse named ‘Dio’, towards the Machair, with views of neighbouring Erraid." Best refuge After a tough couple of days' trekking on the Tour du Mont Blanc (and a tough night not sleeping in a dormitory alongside a heavily snoring fellow hiker) Paul's arrival at the Auberge de la Nova was a delight: "friendly, neat, cute, beautiful views and terrific food. Few beers taste as glorious as my first pression sipped in the auberge garden after kicking off my boots in the late afternoon sun." Best Wildlife Watching Experience Abroad As part of Greentraveller's series of films for WTTC's Transforming Our World initiative, we filmed the work of Botswana Tourism Organisation in Makgadikgadi, Okavango Delta and Chobe. "Filming elephants swimming in a lake in Makgadikgadi was pretty special," says Richard, "but on our last night, while staying at Thobolo Bush Lodge near the border with Namibia, we saw over 500 elephants arrive at night to a watering hole. It was magical." Best pitstop “Whenever we’ve found ourselves doing a long UK drive as a family this year we have had reason to be thankful for the National Trust,” says Rhiannon. “Just when we’ve needed a loo break, a cup of tea and space for the children to run around and work off all that pent-up energy, a National Trust site has stepped in and saved the day. Highlights this year included a cup of tea and a look at the giant waterwheel at Quarry Bank in Cheshire, a climb of the tree hide and a meet-up with grandparents at Moseley Old Hall in Staffordshire and a rainy run around the garden followed by tea and scones in the wood-panelled tea room at Barrington Court in Somerset.” Best neighbourhood restaurant Brassica is the kind of restaurant you dream of finding in small towns around the UK and, in Beaminster, Rhiannon Batten’s dreams came true. In a light, bright, colourful and very stylish dining room, liberally dotted with posies of fresh flowers (co-owner Louise Chidgey was once senior buyer for The Conran Shop and knows her stuff – if you love the crockery you can buy it in the accompanying shop next door), chef and co-owner Cass Titcombe serves the kind of food that appears simple but takes great skill to pull off so well. “Start with a seasonal cocktail (blood orange mimosa) or mocktail (quince soda) then move on to roast squash with pecorino, black garlic and chestnuts or whole grilled seabass with fennel and anchovy aioli, making sure you save space for a slice of lemon, almond and polenta cake with vanilla ice cream” advises Rhiannon. Best coastal hiking loop Paul Blomfield's unexpected few hours on Exmoor on a quiet autumn Sunday morning yielded one of his best four hours' walking ever. Walking from Oare to County Gate, Countisbury Hill, Watersmeet and back: "peaceful wooded paths, dramatic views across the Bristol Channel and along the coast to Lynmouth, the babbling East Lyn River... gorgeous." Best Foodie Destination Beyond Barcelona and the coast, Paul and Richard both say the variety of Catalonia's landscapes, cuisines and activities is astonishing. Who knew that snails, simply grilled and served with garlicky aioli in Lleida (where they worship the mollusc with a huge festival each year) could be so delicious? Or that food all over the region is such high quality and great value? A great example is the fabulous Hotel 1935, Costa Brava. Best family holiday Mark and his family loved their trip to the Isles of Scilly. “It was like Cornwall in the 1950s, except with good food and updated accommodation” says Mark. “We kayaked around Bryher in the footsteps of Michael Morpurgo’s novel, Why the Whales Came, and snorkelled with seals. The highlight was sailing to the Bishop Rock lighthouse at the south-west extremity of the islands - it was a little choppy but dramatic and thrilling.” The one that got away Ginny missed out on a paddleboarding tour of the salt marshes on her trip to Ile de Ré in June, but hopes to return to this "island idyll" to do it: "The marshes put on an ever-changing spectacle of flora and fauna as well as being host to a recovering artisan/small scale oyster industry (which can now be sampled any time of the day or night thanks to the 24 hour vending machine installed by one of the oyster producers this year). Ile de Re is most famously explored by bike but a paddleboard tour of the marshes, or the Atlantic shores, would be an invigorating alternative." And finally.... Best interviewee clip Greentraveller's film unit was commissioned by the Travel Foundation to produce a series of videos about its work in Jamaica, Croatia and Cape Verde. The highlight of the Jamaica shoot, Richard says, was visiting the Rastafari Indigenous Village in the hills above Montego Bay. Here is a short clip with Queen B who leads tours around the village: A very happy 2018 from all of us at Greentraveller!

From skyrunning in the Dolomites, bodyboating in North Wales and cycling in southern England to travelling around Switzerland by train, staying in a lighthouse in Northern Ireland and yoga on an organic farm in Ibiza, here are some of our favourite experiences from 2016, as chosen by our team of contributors James Stewart, Rhiannon Batten, Paul Bloomfield, Sarah Baxter, Harriet O'Brien, Yvonne Gordon, Florence Fortman, Lucy Symons and Richard Hammond. Best mountain run Sky running in the Alta Badia valley in the Italian Dolomites does what it says on the tin, says Paul Bloomfield. Start running. Run up the nearest mountain, as close to the sky as you can. Run down again. Spectacular – and the perfect excuse for gorging on the amazing local cuisine. Best train journey Florence travelled on the Glacier Express from St Moritz to Zermatt in Switzerland in May as part of her Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. "It's such an epic journey – too many best bits to mention – but two particular highlights have to be crossing the awecome 6-arched, 213 ft-high Landwasser Viaduct, and climbing the Olberalp Pass, a pass so high (2,033m) it required a cogwheel train to push the carriages to the summit". Watch our short video of the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland: Best Discovery Germany is gloriously, prolifically wild. Despite being best known for its big, buzzing cities, it has over 22,000 protected areas, ranging from national parks to sites of community importance. Together these account for around 40% of German land and seas. Which makes it – surprisingly – one of the most protected countries in the world. As Sarah Baxter writes in her feature on Germany's protected areas, "There is also huge variety in these preserved places. Therapeutic mudflats, meandering rivers, artist-inspiring islands, awesome Alps, forests that seem plucked out of a fairytales – Germany’s protected areas are wonderfully diverse, and often come with a dash of the unexpected." Best local food experience On a trip to Naxos and the Small Cyclades, Florence visited a cheese-making farm on the south of the island where Stelios and his 700-strong herd of goats produce a tangy, award-winning Mizithra. Each goat has a different sounding bell and Stelios can recognise each individual one. As he opened the gate, the goats stampeded into the surrounding valleys – one of the most awesome sights of the trip. "My ears were ringing with the sound of 700 goat bells for the rest of the day!" Watch our video to Naxos and the Small Cyclades: Best wildlife experience In November and December thousands of seals congregate ashore on the east coast of England. Two of the best places to see them are at Horsey in Norfolk and Donna Nook in East Lincolnshire, where Richard and his film crew saw several thousand adult grey seals and pups on the beaches while filming for the National Coastal Tourism Academy. "It's the kind of mass wildlife spectacle that you'd expect in Africa or the Galapagos" says Richard, "yet it's right here on our doorstop". Best Public Art While public art can be commissioned with the best intentions, it can quickly become a somewhat rusty dissapointment if not given some TLC. Not so with the striking Scallop Shell on the beach between Aldeburgh and Thorpeness in Suffolk. It was conceived by Suffolk-born artist Maggi Hambling (and made by Aldeburgh craftsmen Sam and Dennis Pegg) as a tribute to Benjamin Britten who spent much of his life in Aldeburgh and nearby Snape. Best views Yvonne Gordon stayed St John's Point Lighthouse, Co Down for a travel feature for The Guardian. The 40m-high lighthouse has been working since 1844 and visitors can now stay in the former lightkeeper's cottages. As well as views over the open sea, the cottages also have views of Northern Ireland's beautiful Mourne Mountains across the bay. Best new adventure The surprise of the year for James Stewart was when he joined Wilderness Scotland on its first road-bike trip across the Scottish Highlands. The east to west route – Aberdeen to Applecross, via domed hills in the Cairngorms, Loch Ness then Loch Torridon -– had some tough ascents over 6 days and 262 miles (not least Bealach na Ba, the UK's own King of the Mountains ascent, on the final day) and involved some cycling in snow (of course), but there was wonderful company and lovely highlands accommodation: the immersion into scenery that expanded by the mile, the quiet satisfaction of a summit made. "By the end I almost got the point of Lycra, too", he adds. Best Cycle Ride Richard loved sampling some of the best cycle routes in southern England while filming for our video for Cycle Southern England. Highlights for Richard were the wooded sections of the Shipwrights Way and the Meon Valley Trail - a 10-mile flat trail along a disused rail track between Wickam and West Meon. If you've time, don't miss the wonderful Thomas Lord pub in West Meon - it became a regular stop for film crew who loved the home cooked sandwiches in the glorious garden. Best city break Lucy loved Lisbon. "The city of seven hills is a little gem," she says, "and rickety, rattly Tram 28 is the best way to get from the bottom of the city to the top (get your ticket on board)." Portugal owns more sea than land, so you can be assured of some of the freshest seafood you have ever eaten, and listen to some traditional, passionate Fado (Mariza is her favourite). Best green initiative James' most enjoyable green interview was with Martin Dorey, founder of #2minutebeachclean; an inspirational guy and project. He not only show how easy it is for each of us to tackle one of the biggest environmental issues of our era – marine rubbish – but how one person can make a difference. His one simple idea – we can all do our bit to clean the beach launched in 2013 – has now gone global; the #2minutecampaign Instagram page has posts from the UK, of course, but also throughout Europe North America – New York to Florida, Anchorage to California – and from Australia, New Zealand, Bali, Brazil, Peru even Papua New Guinea. Brilliant. Best British foodie experience On a trip to the Brecon Beacons, James discovered that as well as soul-stirring scenery and literary festivals, the Welsh borders also support the messianic farmers and single-ingredient obsessives who in turn supply traditional shops, hopeful food start-ups and brilliant young restaurateurs. It’s a virtuous circle; a thriving foodie culture that’s yet to be gussied up. >> Greentraveller's Guide to Brecon Beacons Best Family Holiday Richard and his family joined in with turtle conservation while staying at Azur Hotel in Cirali, Turkey. You can read about the trip in an article he wrote for Family Traveller magazine: Turtle Conservation in Turkey, which was part of the magazine's Ocean's Issue, which was shortlisted in this year's British Travel Media Awards. Best unexpected foodie delight On a trip to Wales earlier this year, Paul discovered the delights of Anglesey sea salt: not only did he find out why it's the best in the world (the secret is super-clean seawater filtered by mussels) but that it tastes amazing in chocolate! Best holiday moment A local pint with a show-stopping view at the Druidstone Hotel in Pembrokeshire, was her best Holiday moment, says Rhiannon. Sit out at the front looking over the bay or grab a table in the walled garden and let the children explore its treehouse. Best museum Grimsy Fishing Heritage Museum was Richard's favourite visitor attraction while spending the best part of a month filming on the east coast of England in November and December. "We (the film crew) were led round the museum by a former skipper of one of the old fishing trawlers and we were so engrossed in the tour we put down our equipment to listen to the captivating tales of life at sea. It was a harsh life that's fantastically well told and re-created at this fabulous museum", said Richard. Best coastal activity Whilst shooting a video in Wales, Florence leaped off the cliffs into the sea near Rhossili in the Gower. Having never tried coasteering before, when the opportunity came up she jumped – literally – at the chance. The water was quite choppy but the crew eventually found a sheltered spot where she could launch off. "I couldn't sit down for the rest of the day but it was an exhilarating experience," she said.  If you want to follow in Florence's (wet) footsteps, watch our video at the foot of this page. Also, check out Preseli Venture, which runs coasteering trips in Pembrokeshire. Best green gizmo Rhiannon loves her amazing electric bike. Not only has it made the school run a dream but she wouldn't be without it for trips around town now. You choose the power, from 0 (you pedal just like a normal bike) to 5 (still pedalling, but without the burn, as she tackles the steepest of Bath's hills) and away you go. No waiting for a bus or faffing with parking. Best food Yvonne Gordon tucked into fresh anchovy salad, tuna carpaccio and octopus cakes at Konoba Kod Marka at Šipanska Luka on Šipan island in the Elaphiti islands in Croatia, reached by a sailing boat. There's no menu - diners get a choice of meat or fish, and it's all local produce. Best heritage moment One of the stand-out moments for Sarah was walking to Stonehenge. Ditching the car, she followed the Great Stones way from Swindon to Salisbury, passing Wiltshire countryside infested with ancient stuff: barrows, mounds, defensive dykes, white horses, hill forts, standing stones. "One of the best moments", she says, "was approaching Stonehenge from Durrington Walls on foot, picking up the processional avenue and not encountering another tourist until I was standing right at the stones' modern-day fence." Best new watersport Is the Dee Valley the UK’s most active valley? Sarah Baxter thinks it might be. She enjoyed flinging herself down the Dee River in February on a glorified sun-lounger tbanks to Antony Fleming-Williams's new body-boating company, one of several small, passionately-run local businesses that are helping people explore the Clwydian Range & Dee Valley by board, bike, boat, kayak, horse and more. Best romantic project For the last three years, visitors and residents in Exmoor have been scribbling limericks and lines, sonnets and rhymes in tin poetry boxes left across Exmoor in the summer. A collection of these have been published in a book, The Exmoor Poetry Boxes – A Harvest of Wild Words available at all three of the Exmoor Visitor Centres at Dulverton, Dunster and Lynmouth. Best family-friendly YHAs Rhiannon's favourites are Dufton in Cumbria with a wendy house and treehouse in its garden (and lovely pub opposite – the Stag Inn) and YHA Dartmoor with its spectacular setting and access to outdoor swimming pools and country parks. Best eco island Lucy discovered that Ibiza is home to some imaginative eco solutions: try the wonderful Can Marti where you can explore the northern part of the white isle if you are bored of swimming in their natural pool, practicing yoga or lurking in the hammam. Sheila at Walking Ibiza runs regular guided foot tours (Wednesday and Friday) of the lesser known corners of the Island for residents and visitors. Best Glamping Experience Richard loved his first Featherdown Farm holiday at East Shilvinghampton, Dorset. His review says: "Loved it! If you’re used to the traditional put-up-your-own-tent camping (like me), you’ll find Featherdown Farms an indulgence. It really is ‘luxury camping’ thanks to the comfy bed, duvet, running water and other well-thought out facilities. Though don’t forget you’re still under canvas and evenings by the fire can still be cool… it may be 'luxury' but you’re not staying in a hotel! If you’re looking for camping in comfort (especially welcome if it rains), these tents are marvellous, our boys loved the farm and facilities (especially the wheelbarrows required to transport luggage and wood) and the food was imaginative yet practical and delicious." Best heritage attraction Richard loved visiting the ceiling to floor roofed wooden and stone houses, underground rivers and fabulous traditional fare at Hotel Prvan Vrgorac Ethno Village while filming for the Travel Foundation in Croatia. Best car rental We were thrilled to be asked to promote the launch of Co-wheels on the Isle of Wight. The hybrid vehicles rented out by this award-winning social enterprise will be available at various key locations, transport hubs and visitor hotspots across the island, including Ryde, Cowes, Newport, Freshwater and Sandown. After joining the car club, members receive a smartcard, allowing them to book online and have keyless access the cars. The high specification hybrid and low emission cars can be booked for short periods – from half an hour - or for days at a time at discounted rates. Hire is from £4.50 per hour or £31.50 per day, plus a small mileage fee of 15p per mile. Best UK escape In the northern Cotswolds is the The Ebrington Arms. "A cosy-chic haven with real soul," says Harriet. It brews it own beer, hosts live music and offers dishes packed with local flavour. "Oh, and it’s in a particularly lovely area; off the beaten track yet easily accessible," she adds. If you want to visit the area, have a squizz at Greentraveller's Guide to the Cotswolds AONB. Best mystical experience On one warm summer evening, while hiking the 53-mile Great Stones Way between Barbury Castle south of Swindon and the hilltop castle-cathedral site at Old Sarum, Paul strolled back to his B&B from the pub near Avebury. The setting sun lit the curious manmade Silbury Hill, the ancient burial mound of West Kennet Long Barrow glowered from the ridge to the south, and a solitary roe deer skipped away through the cornfield alongside the path. Best pop-up place Rhiannon loves the fresh-from-the-garden food with heaps of imagination but no silly fripperies at Horto, a pop-up restaurant (now going permanent) at Rudding Park hotel in Yorkshire. The focus is on the property’s kitchen garden home to 100-plus herbs, flowers, fruits and veg. Rhiannon's favourite dish was Whitby crab with broad beans, a pea sorbet, buttermilk and horseradish granita, pea water and chive flowers. Yum! Best hike With 50 lakes and a land which is two thirds covered by mountains, Macedonia is a hiker's paradise and Yvonne Gordon loved the hike to Treskavec Monastery on Mount Zlatovrv, 8 km north of Prilep. Located at 1,420m above sea level, the monastery is home to just one resident monk and has frescoes dating back to the 15th century. Best rural-chic delight Harriet loves the wonderfully refurbed Plough at Kelmscott on the eastern fringes of the Cotswolds, with upcycled furnishings (such as a gym horse used as a bench) and a small (and beautiful) menu based on local produce. It’s just down the road from William Morris’s Kelmscott Manor. As a salute to last year's initiative, we continue our Best cheese experience Yvonne Gordon's highlight was watching Rikardu Zammit of Ta’ Rikardu restaurant in the old Citadel in Victoria, Gozo, make Ġbejniet cheeselets in his cheese-making room in an ancient fortress in the Citadel – and then tasting the cheese afterwards for lunch. She wrote about in her Greentraveller blog. And finally... Best national tourism campaign We loved Visit Wales' #FindYourEpic campaign to inspire adventure travel in Wales, though we declare that we contributed our bit to this initiative, producing an online guide and video to mini adventures in its 8 protected landscapes: A very happy 2017 from all of us at Greentraveller!

From hiking Glyndŵr's Way and witnessing Northumberland's Dark Skies to transporting beer to Brittany, swimming in the Aegean and mountain biking in the Sierra Nevada, here are some of our favourite experiences from 2015, as chosen by our team of contributors James Stewart, Rhiannon Batten, Sian Lewis, Paul Bloomfield, Harriet O'Brien, David Atkinson, Florence Fortman, Liz Granirer, Lucy Symons, Yvonne Gordon and Richard Hammond. Best family holiday Rhiannon's favourite family holiday this year was swimming with turtles (and watching their baby siblings hatch) in Cirali, Turkey. "A lovely low-key village right on a beautiful beach, backed by pomegranate groves and pine-peppered mountains and full of lovely family-owned businesses, from Hotel Azur to Hayriye’s restaurant, a shady flower and cushion-strewn cafe serving delicious salads and traditional Turkish mezzes made with produce grown on the owner's farm". Prettiest hotel: Liz Granirer loved Hôtel Les Orangeries, in Lussac-les-Château, just south of Poitiers, France. "Verdigris window trim and doors, terracotta floor tiles, repurposed farm buildings, French doors onto impossibly perfect gardens... The sort of place where, somehow, they even know how to make breakfast look beautiful". Best morning video shoot location Okay so it's not exactly an unknown location, but filming at Stonehenge (and Avebury) at dawn was one of the highlights of the year for our film crew. We produced two videos this year about how to reach these iconic mystical attractions by public transport. Best wildlife-watching experiences In late summer, Jo visited the Northumberland Coast Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and boarded a boat to the Farne Islands and had some fantastic views of some of the islands' inhabitants, including puffins, guillemots and seals. Read her full article: Wildlife watching on the Farne Islands, Northumberland Coast In late November, Lucy visited Gwel an Mor where she went on her best wildlife experience; nearly three hours of wandering through local fields and woods at the coastal location of Portreath in Cornwall with enthusiast and biologist Ranger Gary whose passion extends beyond the indigenous furry creatures to championing the local ants. Fly Chunk the Owl, charm the snakes and feed the rescue foxes. £12 well spent! Best hike Undertaking a couple of days' taster walking the Glyndŵr's Way around Machynlleth, starting from the truly remote Star Inn at Dylife and staying at the charming self-catering cottage Yr Hen Stablau (a converted stable), revealed the green beauty of this patch of mid-Wales, passing through the Dyfi Biosphere Reserve. Red kites soar overhead; serene, mirror-like lakes glimmer in the sun; trails wind through moors, down into verdant combes and past isolated sheep farmsteads. Magical. Best ecolodge Wheatland Farm in Devon has long been a favourite of ours, so it was great to see it rewarded at the VisitEngland Awards where it won Gold for Sustainable Tourism. Above is a short video we made about it this summer. Best International Moment Liz Granirer's favourite moment of 2015 was a home-cooked dinner at Une Campagne en Provence, an agrotourism-based hotel and range of self-catering cottages in southern France with hosts, Claude (from Alsace) and Martina (from Germany), along with their teenage son (born in France, fluent in English, French, German and Spanish, learning Russian...), and fellow guests who came from Turkey and Italy, and us (British and American). "There was so much good feeling and jolliness around the table," says Liz,, "it was truly a night to remember". Best camping experience James's most unusual camping experience was cliff-camping with Gaia Adventures. Staying overnight on a portaledge, the flat frames that climbers use to tackle multiday ascent, hung from Angelsey's sea cliffs and dangling off the edge of the world on what looks like a cheap sunlounger, basically. James said it felt about as safe as abseiling yet was a genuinely escapist experience and is "a fantastic way to slow down, drop out of the world and immerse in beautiful views of sea and sky". Bonkers! Best beach-side taverna The Aegean island of Chios is known as the island of the senses, and the air itself smells like tasty things to eat, from fragrant tangerines and ripening tomatoes to the piney tang of mastic sap. For the best beachside tavernas try the Nostos Tavern in Lagada - where they serve up fresh, traditional and beautifully prepared dishes, from bright Greek salads to just-caught and salted sardines - try them with a glass of cloudy ouzo on the side. Our favourites, though, are the puddings - pastries sweetened with mastic liquor or a 'spoon sweet' - rich homemade marmalades eaten with Greek yoghurt. >> Greentraveller's Guide to Lesvos and Chios Best step-back-in-time accommodation Paul rated the Château de Chantore - a charming 18th-century mini-palace packed with period art and furnishings – breakfast coffee is poured from a silver-plated Napoleonic pot! Bernard and Iñaki, the antiques-loving pair who have restored the chateau, are incredibly welcoming and passionate about this place – perfect hosts. Sip cider made with apples from the château’s orchards, and breakfast on eggs from the Sebright hens pecking in the yard. And bed down with views of Mont St-Michel peeking through the trees Best bike rides The trail from the Puerto de la Ragua pass in Andalucia’s Sierra Nevada to the lovely whitewashed Alpujarran village of Mairena traverses boar-grubbed forests, rocks topped by big-horned ibex, and peaceful farmsteads watered by acequias – irrigation channels created by the moors a millennium ago, gets Paul Bloomfield's vote for best bike ride of the year. Best of all, he says, "with David – owner of lovely guesthouse Las Chimeneas – as a guide, you won't miss a thing. Second best, it’s downhill all the way…" In the summer, Yvonne Gordon cycled around the car-free islands in the southern Gothenburg Archipelago in West Sweden - exploring pretty harbours, swimming spots, lookout points and nature reserves on islands like Styrsö and Vrångö. There are more than 20 islands in the archipelago, with regular ferries between them. After a day of activities, retire back to your guesthouse for a supper of freshly-caught crayfish. Best teaching experience Richard spent a weekend in Cornwall at Watergate Bay Hotel with Swimlab where he was given a two-day tutorial on swimming technique by the experienced swimming professional teacher Saim Ahmed. "The teaching was first-class - I've been swimming for years, but learnt so much about how to improve my technique, thanks especially to the underwater filming and analysis that Salim provides. I'd recommend this course to anyone - from novice swimmer to those that think they have their technique nailed - bet they would learn something from Salim's expert eye", said Richard. Best tipple Paul Bloomfield's most unexpectedly tasty tipple was a pear aperitif from the farm near Domfront, Normandy. A blend of pear brandy mixed with pear juice, Paul said "it's the essence of rural Normandy in a glass (which just kept emptying and being mysteriously refilled...)". Sipped while gazing out at cow-grazed pear orchards, Paul says: "It was more delicious than I could have imagined." Best wine-tasting Hiking a section of the recently opened Moselsteig walking trail between Trier and Beilstein, Paul Bloomfield enjoyed gazing at the meandering river, Roman remains and fairytale castles lording it over towns including Bernkasel-Kues and Traben-Trabach. But mostly he enjoyed sampling the many – and he means many – vintages en route; with the valley sides almost uniformly blanketed with vines and a Weingut (winery) or Strausswirtschaften (seasonal pop-up wine bar) at literally every corner, there’s no escaping the Riesling here. Paul suggests this as the best wine-tasting experience especially the Spätlese, slightly sweet but incredibly refreshing wine made with late-harvested grapes. Join the route with self-guided walking specialist Inntravel. Best bits of the Cotswolds We invited Harriet O'Brien (the Telegraph's Cotswolds correspondent) to write our Greentraveller's Guide to the Cotswolds AONB - her favourite discoveries were The Chef's Dozen at Chipping Campden for exquisite, innovative cuisine with total commitment to local produce and to supporting suppliers in the immediate area. For more foodie heaven, she recommends trying the Jolly Nice Cafe and Farm Shop near Minchinhampton for the brilliant use of a once derelict petrol station, and for a really great selection of veg, meat and deli goods, she also suggests you stop by the Moreton-in-Marsh Show as it is a wonderful family event. "This is a charmingly old-fashioned country show complete with tractors, sheep shows and engaging pigs," she says. Also, don't miss the many pop up shows and events in 2016 to mark the 50th anniversary of the Cotswolds AONB. Best bits of Kent Harriet also wrote our Greentraveller's Guide to the Kent Downs staying on Brenley Farm B&B- on a working hop and apple farm, which she recommends as a bucolic, elegant place to stay, with delicious breakfasts from host Maggie Berry. While you are there, grab your bins and pop by Lydden Temple Ewell Reserve - a glorious stretch of countryside full of birds (sky larks, woodpeckers and more) and supporting a great variety of plants from orchids to wild herbs - and butterflies too, and visit Doddington Place Gardens - a magnificent blend of nature and nurture; the clipped yew hedges are amazing, the woodland garden magical. Jot it down in your diary for the month of April as a place to go to see the terrific displays of rhododendrons. Best Dark Skies experience In late summer, Jo visited the Northumberland National Park to experience the area's dark skies. "Once the clouds shifted, we began to notice things about the moon we’d never seen before. The white parts are more heavily cratered than the dark ‘seas’. Meteors hit evenly, Roy said, but the darker parts were once pools of lava which absorbed the shocks. As the rock hardened it formed ripples like cooling milk." Read the full article: Northumberland National Park's Dark Skies Best châteaux bike tour Our staff writer, Florence Fortnam, rates cycling the wonderful 'Châteaux à Vélo' in France - 400km of cycle lanes that wind through vineyards, lovely villages and stunning countryside linking some of the Loire's grandest châteaux, such as Chambord, Blois and Cheverny. She suggests that you take a well-earned dip in the crystal clear waters at the Baignade Naturelle du Grand Chambord after a day in the saddle exploring the Châteaux à Vélo cycle routes. Best home-from-home guesthouse David Atkinson says Geufron Hall is best home-from-home guesthouse. A B&B set on a widescreen-view hillside overlooking the vibrant North Walian town of Llangollen. Owner Beth Boyce served David a delicious breakfast in the morning with scrambled eggs from the hens wandering her flower-strewn garden. Best of all, it's just a short walk along the footpath to the ancient ruins on Castell Dins Bran. Best eco retreat Tyddyn Retreat outside Machynlleth in Mid Wales, is a delightfully tranquil, three-acre site with two cosy stone barn conversations, sleeping up to six people each, plus a tipi, a workshop for seminars, even has a secluded, sleep-in summerhouse. The owner, Romy Shovelton, arranges regular events at the retreat from reiki to writing retreats and helps to guide visitors along local sections of the Glyndwr's Way National Trail. Best al fresco festival feast We loved sampling local crab and oysters and learning how to forage for your dinner at the Food Rocks festival in Lyme Regis, Dorset, held just above the famous Cobb with the Jurassic Coast stretching off into the distance. Best breakfast Rhiannon Batten says her best breakfast was the mustardy, cheesey rarebit with buttered but crunchy greens at the surprisingly green Ham Yard Hotel in Soho and she really enjoyed seeing local Somerset brandy (pomona) on the wine list alongside the usual dessert wines at Cross Lane House on the fringes of Exmoor and the best cooking course she attended was a relaxed autumn tasting evening at The Talbot in Mells courtesy of Kitchen Table Cookery. Lots of local produce, a sociable - and prettily candlelit - atmosphere and food you'd actually want to cook again: hearty mushroom bourguignon made with local mushrooms, a gorgeous cardamom-laced yoghurt to use in place of cream and a fresh, green apple coleslaw. Yum! Best gluten-free grub Lucy Symons discovered that Lifton Farm Shop on the Cornwall/Devon borders had the most extraordinary selection of gluten free everything she has ever seen. Cheese, store cupboard items and hand crafted Cornish Pasties… The gigantic car park should prepare you for the heaving mass of punters all wandering the aisles open mouthed at the sheer volume of deliciousness under a single roof. The staff are all as excited as their customers, as they share their recommendations and enthusiasm for the farm produce. Best cheese experience Sian Lewis still dreams about the Swiss Cheese Train she discovered on her Grand Train Tour of Switzerland. Platform 5 of Montreux's pretty station is the starting point for what must be the tastiest mode of slow travel in Europe - the Cheese Train, which runs from December to April along Switzerland's famous, mountainous Golden Pass line in its own train carriage - an original from the Belle Epoque, complete with plush seats and gold-trimmed interiors. If you have a Swiss Travel Pass then a Cheese Train ticket is just 39CHF, which includes cheese and wine on the platform and a fondue lunch in a chalet in the mountain town of Chateaux-D'Oex. Read a summary of Sian's trip: Summary and Route Map of Greentraveller's Grand Tour of Switzerland and also a Storify summary of the social media coverage. Best sea swims Sian loved swimming off the beaches of Lesvos: The inviting, clear blue waters that hug the coast of Lesvos are impossible to resist says Sian: "Go swimming on the beachfront of gay-friendly Skala of Eressos, swim above the beautiful reef at Agios Isidoros beach or wait until nightfall to see if you can spot starry phosphorescence on the waves". Best gorge walk James Stewart says the Vikos Gorge is truly astonishing. However many times you see the world’s deepest gorge, it continues to reveal new perspectives of itself to wow you all over again. His favourite gorge experiences were the short walk to the Voidomatis Springs, the six-hour trek along its length (if only to have the place to yourself midway along), the viewpoint at Oxia and the Convent of Agia Paraskevi. Best accommodation in Greece James Stewart rated the accommodation in Zagori. Marry genuine Greek hospitality in a family B&B to the good looks of historic stone buildings and you have some wonderful accommodation in the picture-postcard villages of the Zagori. Who needs the coast when you have such fantastic stays as Kipi Suites, Papaevengelou, Aristi Mountain Retreat and Thoukididis Guest House... James says he’d return tomorrow. Best working holiday James Stewart says his best working holiday was when he took a booze cruise with a difference and joined Grayhound, a 108ft Cornish sailing lugger, to transport a cargo of beer to Brittany. It's not just pure escapism, he swears – he sailed as working crew, with his itinerary dictated by the whim of the winds – as part of a genuine cargo trip to provide green, low-carbon transport. James says: "Lovely owners, too!" Best bit of news in the autumn spending review The protection of over £350 million funding for public forests, National Parks and Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Here's our video of one such area: The Isle of Wight Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty: And finally... we were delighted that Greentraveller was awarded the Top Green Travel Blog in 2015 badge by Flipkey.

From tasting delicious Dorset-made chocolates and glimpsing Britain's rarest flower, to going behind the scenes at the International Sustainable Restaurant of the Year, enjoying astounding artistic performances on the Isle of Canna, and discovering new mountain bike trails at Glenlivet, here's a selection of our favourite experiences from 2014, as chosen by our team of contributors Paul Bloomfield, Sarah Barrell, Rhiannon Batten, Paul Miles, David Atkinson, Helen Voce, Rob McDaid and Beccy Jeeson, Yvonne Gordon and Richard Hammond. Best Slow Travel experience The longest and highest navigable aqueduct in Britain is in Wales. Cruising at 4mph across the Dee valley in a trough of water with just a few inches of iron between this ‘stream in the sky’ and the river, 126ft below, is thrilling. Paul Miles recommends taking a train to Chirk from where you can take bus 64 or 64a to Llangollen, taking 20 minutes. (The energetic can stride – or cycle – eight miles along the towpath and over the aqueduct.) From Llangollen, join a narrowboat trip along a twisty stretch of canal then across THE aqueduct, Pontcysyllte (Pont-cus-uth-teh). Book in advance. After the crossing, disembark and walk the remaining three miles along the towpath to Chirk station. Alternatively, return to Llangollen where there’s a steam railway  – Berwyn stationmaster’s house is a grade-II listed self-catering property - and horse-drawn narrowboat trips. Best cocktail A delicious Dirty Beets mix (house-infused beetroot vodka with apple syrup and crème de cassis: £6.50) that Rhiannon enjoyed before a fabulous meal of perfectly pan-fried plaice (£11.95) and loin of hare (£13.95) at Norse in Harrogate. Richard also visited Harrogate later in the year for the Inntravel Discovery Day and stayed at the excellent Acorn Lodge, a great place to stay (free wifi, honesty bar and fab breakfast including local Masham sausages) just a few minute's walk from the town's international conference centre. Best food discovery Flower and herb waters used in cooking to add subtle flavours to dishes at the wonderful Les Orangeries (for example, sage water added to apple sauce for a delicate herby hit), which was the winner of the International Sustainable Restaurant of the Year 2014. Rhiannon and Richard were lucky to be given a behind-the-scenes tour with Nicole, who has built up a huge outdoor kitchen garden where she grows herbs and flowers for the hotel's kitchen. Best Slow Travel Destination Richard loved the Alentejo region of southern Portugal. It's a huge area covering almost a third of the country, from the Rio Tejo to the northern area of the Algarve, and from the eastern border with Spain to the beaches of the Atlantic Ocean to the west (see map). He stayed at the Hotel Moura near the wonderful medieval walled town of Monsaraz. You can book the hotel through Alentejo specialist tour operator Sunvil. Richard is not the only one who thinks it's a great find; Isobel Choat wrote earlier this year in the Guardian: "Forget Ibiza. Forget the Riviera. In fact, forget the Med altogether. Portugal’s Alentejo region is lined with glorious beaches – but not many people seem to know about them". Richard tweeted this short vine video of the glorious swimming pool when he was there in November saying: "Now's a great time to be in the Alentejo, Portugal. 24 degrees today (over 30 last week)". Best Flower Discovery Professional photographer Diana Jarvis was lucky enough to get a glimpse of the rare Lady’s Slipper Orchid while on a photographic assignment for our Greentraveller's Guide to Arnside & Silverdale. She saw this beautiful orchid (Britain's rarest flower) at Gait Barrows National Nature Reserve - here you’ll find rare limestone-loving plants such as the rigid buckler fern, dark-red helleborine and limestone fern within the sheltered grykes, as well as an array of woodland birds, rare butterflies and wildflowers. Best Walk Walking the Herriot Way. September proved the ideal month for Helen Voce to tackle the 55 mile circular Herriot Way walk in the Yorkshire Dales. The 4 day route took in varied terrain - tin mines, rivers and waterfalls, heather topped moors peppered with black grouse and Swaledale Sheep and at its highest point, Great Shunner Fell. Stuart W. Grieg's guide book with detailed route maps, descriptions of landmarks (including a rusted tractor!) and excellent local knowledge was permanently at hand. Every narrow gated style was noted and climbed through diligently. It was a wonderful way to take in the Dales and meet fellow walkers on the Pennine Way and Coast to Coast which the Herriot Way intersects. A night in Keld luxury Yurts was an excellent reward for completing the Herriot Way. A half way point on the Coast to Coast and an overnight on the Herriot Way it caters marvelously for walkers; home made food is available all day including warm breakfast baguettes served in your Yurt, washing and overnight boot drying facilities. We didn't indulge in the Private Hot Tub but it is good to know it is there for next time! Best artistic performance Air falbh leis na h-eòin, Eilean Chanaigh/Away with the Birds, Isle of Canna turned out to be the perfect reason for Helen to explore in late-August the island of Canna, one of Scotland's small isles. Conceived and composed by Hanna Tuullikki and performed by a female vocal ensemble, Away with the Birds explores the mimesis of birds in Gaelic song. The performance was sited on the shore of the island's historic harbour and embraced the rising tide. The small, vibrant community of the National Trust for Scotland island welcomed cast, crew and audience members with tours of Canna House (gifted to NTS in 1981 by then owners John Lorne Campbell and Margaret Fay Shaw, renowned folklorists and ethnomusicologists and home to their extraordinary collection of Gaelic material), home made cakes before the performance, a beach BBQ at Café Canna and a fully stocked honesty shop featuring much local produce. Best low impact local tour company Sarah Barrell says Foot Trails walking tours "are a great way to get off the beaten track - and the oversubscribed national trails - with walking tours tailor-made for all ages and abilities". The couple that arrange these trips - owners Alison and David Howell have trail-beaten the routes themselves, often with their kids in tow. Each trip comes with walking notes rich with local stories and historical facts, maps, and reading material that outlines flora and fauna - plus accommodation is in independent hotels. It’s a great, low-impact way to explore England. Sarah's daughter, Ella (8) and Sarah loved the two-day hike that took in Bath’s hills and outlying hamlets, followed by a day in the city itself. It was Ella's first proper walk - she lasted six hours each day, at a sustained pace and now considers herself a “real hiker.” Result! Best Video Greentraveller's team loved the videos produced by the Wilderness Scotland this year. They get across the true essence of wilderness, be it walking, cycling, sailing, kayaking or canoeing. Wilderness Scotland is one of Greentraveller's founder members and this year, they were the winner of the World's Leading Green Tour Operators in the World Travel Awards. As one of their head guides Myles Farnbank explained, what they are trying to do is about "making green products seem normal rather than making normal products seem green". Here's their video on wilderness walking... enjoy! Best new cycle trail Helen loved the new Glenlivet mountaing biking trails: "The drive out to the purpose-built MTB trails on the Glenlivet Estate is worth it whatever your ability". The 9km Blue Trail is very family friendly offering young mountain bike enthusiasts a taster of trails to come. If your kids are more confident on an off road bike then quite a bit of the Red Trail is accessible, just be trail-savvy and listen out for speedier riders whizzing up behind you. The 6.5km single track downhill on the Red Trail is a great reward for getting to the top as are the spectacular views of Cairngorm. The Coffee Still Cafe at the end of the Trails has a menu of tasty home made cakes, tray bakes, soup, breakfast rolls, sweeties and ice cream (for adults and kids!). Best step-back-in-time experience Striding between the Bronze-Age burial cists and homesteads around dramatic Bellever Tor on Dartmoor – in this wild landscape it's easy to imagine life 4,000 years ago. Read Paul Bloomfield's article: Walking through the Bronze age on Dartmoor Best local pint Cleric's Cure at The Three Bridges pub in southern Shropshire - one of the pub's own microbrews. Best sausage rolls Made to a secret recipe and served oven-warm from The Hidden Hut cafe on Porthcurnick Beach in Cornwall (hiddenhut.co.uk). Just the thing after a swim in the sea. Best local cheese Paul Bloomfield recommends a specially matured Wyfe of Bath cheese from the Bath Soft Cheese Co in his home town of Bath - he says it's a bit firmer and stronger, but still nutty and rich. You can pop up to the creamery door at Park Farm in Kelston and pick one up - after a lovely country walk over the ancient Round Hill, and before a pint of Butcombe in the Old Crown! Best Chocolate Find Harriet O'Brien discovered Chococo while researching for our Greentraveller's Guide to Dorset. The company is run by husband and wife team Claire and Andy Burnet creating some of the best chocolates in Britain (they’ve won more than 40 top awards), all handmade using sustainably produced raw chocolate from Venezuala, Grenada and Madagascar, along with fresh cream from family-run Craig’s Dairy Farm at Osmington. The fillings are for the most part a terrific celebration of Dorset: Chococo creates a special chocolate for each month, such as Dorset Blue made with Blue Vinny cheese, and Black Garlic, a product from South West Garlic Farm near Bridport that has been causing waves of excitement in the food world. Chococo’s workshops are in Wareham, but the company started up in 2002 in Swanage, where it continues to run its main outlet, a shop and café that despite being tucked away down narrow lanes inevitably draws steady streams of people. Chococo is just one one a large number of local food outlets in Dorset that Harriet wrote about in her article on Dorset Food & Drink: "Wild boar salami, gooey goat cheese, black garlic, walnut and rosemary soda bread… From the Cranborne estate chalk lands of northern Dorset to the coastal riches of the south, over the last few years a real-food revolution has been gaining momentum across the county." Best train trip Paul Miles loved the train up from coastal Flam to Myrdal, Norway, where, even in summer he says you will see snow, and then cycling back down. The steep, twisty train ride up passes magical waterfalls and has views to ochre farmhouses. The free-wheel down is a white-knuckle ride through a waterfall-laced valley with a goat farm at the bottom where, if you stop, you have to watch the cute nannies don't nibble your brake cables. Best Garden David visited Elizabeth Gaskell’s House, the family home of the Cranford author, reopened to the public in October, restoring the Grade II-listed Regency villa "as if the family had just popped out and left the table set for dinner". As part of the refurbishment, a team restored also restored the gardens with popular plants and shrubs from the 19th century to reflect the way Gaskell was inspired to write by the view across the garden from her desk. Best Ferry Round Trip Plymouth to Roscoff and Le Havre to Portsmouth with Brittany Ferries. Highlights: a superb meal eaten on board before the ferry departed (compared with having to spend hours holed up on your car queueing to board), a calm overnight crossing (kids loved the cabin and slept through until breakfast), then arrival at Roscoff, a surprisingly charming town and surely one of the best arrival ports in Europe. The return journey was a calm, sunny, quick channel crossing; Richard tweeted: "no wonder ferry travel is booming". Best ferry-trip-with-a-view Yvonne Gordon loved a trip on the MV Glenachulish from Kylerhea on the Isle of Skye to Glenelg on the Scottish mainland. It's the last manually operated turntable ferry in Scotland, and one of the most hardworking crewmemebers is a sheepdog called Nak who takes charge of the ropes. Best India Summer Moment A sunny, summery walk around the National Trust's Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire in late autumn. Best city break in France by train Exploring Le Mans' Cité Plantagenet – the compact medieval centre, with timbered houses, fascinating carved door lintels and might cathedral (Paul Bloomfield recommends looking for the musical angels in the Chapel of the Virgin). Best Cycle Kit: Over the last 3 months, Rob and Becky have travelled across France, Spain and Morocco predominantly by bike, using public transport when necessary and hitchhiking occasionally. In November, Morocco saw the worst rain and floods it has had in 20 years that meant cycle touring and wild camping "was quite a challenge" but they say they are "eternally grateful" for their waterproof cycling jackets (Pearl Izumi Men's Select Barrier WxB and Women's Elite Barrier WxB) that "have kept us dry through the worst rain we have ever encountered... the jackets are lightweight, breathable and are such a good fit you don't feel like you're wearing a cycling jacket when you're off the bike and exploring the sights". Best view Paul Bloomfield loved the sweeping vista across the Mendip Hills to Glastonbury, while rambling in Somerset. This year, Visit Somerset launched a new series of downloadable wildlife walks that give information on walks to six hilltop views that provide far-reaching views of the Somerset levels, including the wonderful view of Brent Knoll and the Bristol Channel from Draycott Sleights Nature Reserve. And finally... a few things we're looking forward to in 2015: The extension of the Coleridge Way from Porlock to Lynmouth, adding a beautiful section (via Oare and lovely Watersmeet) to what's already a fantastic multi-day walk. Combine with a return to Porlock along the South-West Coast Path for a superb four- or five-day trip. The extension of the Norfolk Coast Path from Cromer to Sea Palling is also great news. >> coleridgeway.co.uk Confirmation of extra government funding to speed up opening of England Coast Path by 2020 - all 3,000 miles of coastline accessible to walkers!  >> ramblers.org.uk/what-we-do/news/2014/december/coastal-path-funding.aspx The successful five-year Great Crane Project is to reintroduce cranes to the Somerset Levels finishes in 2015. >> thegreatcraneproject.org.uk/project Improvements to the Eurostar services: New Eurostar service to Geneva, which means it is just 6 hours to Geneva for access to the Alps... the journey travels from London and Ashford to the centre of Lyon in just over four and a half hours, to Avignon in under six hours, and Marseille in just over six hours. Tickets for the new year-round route start at £89 return for Lyon and £99 return for Avignon and Marseille, with up to five services a week, depending on the time of year. New Direct Eurostar service from London to Lyon, Avignon and Marseille Eurostar's upgraded fleet that will boost seat numbers by 20%: ===== Posted by Richard Hammond A VERY HAPPY 2015 FROM ALL OF US AT GREENTRAVELLER

by Richard Hammond Pura Aventura, the specialist in holidays to Spain, Portugal, and Latin America, has announced it is carbon labelling all its trips. Crucially, the carbon labelling includes international flights. For instance, Pura Aventura’s 22-day Patagonia’s Carretera Austral road trip is calculated to generate 4.1 tonnes of carbon per person. This measurement calculates the travel between each point of the holiday, from the guest’s front door (or Brighton, where Pura Aventura is based, as reference) to the airport/port and all other journeys by road, air and sea throughout the trip, including international travel. Closer to home, Pura Aventura’s 7-night Picos de Europa Inn to Inn walking holiday in Spain produces 285kg of carbon. For each kilometre travelled, Pura Aventura carbon compensates by a mile (160%). Therefore, to compensate for the 4.1 tonnes produced for its Patagonia trip, Pura Aventura balances 6.5 tonnes per person, while for its Picos de Europa trip it balances 456kg. Pura Aventura’s carbon action is independently verified and administered by carbon consultancy C-Level and it carbon balances its operations in partnership with rural development project TakingRoot.org in Nicaragua, which creates new local employment opportunities, restores depleted ecosystems and helps mitigate climate change, whilst delivering lasting carbon sequestration that is independently monitored, certified and rewarded over a period of 10 years. Thomas Power, Pura Aventura’s CEO and Co-Founder, said: “Measuring and publishing the carbon produced on all holidays is crucial in helping us all understand the environmental impact of our travels. With this information, consumers can demand to see what action is being taken, empowering them to make more considered choices about their travels.” Pura Aventura is certified as a B Corp, a public and legally binding commitment to balance profit with people and the planet.

by Rhiannon Batten A few weeks ago I wrote a feature on new developments to look out for at the Youth Hostel Association. Now I'm turning my attention to the UK’s indies, many of which can be found via the Independent Hostels UK network. Among an eclectic range of independently run hostels, bunkhouses and camping barns across England, Wales and Scotland, here are some of the most significant new developments to check out over the coming months, from brand new hostels to stay at to hostels that are launching wellbeing courses and home-cooked readymeal services. New hostels Tapping into the European trend for boatels (floating hotels and hostels), the Kyle Blue opened in Bristol at the beginning of the year. A smartly reconfigured Dutch barge (apparently it once served as the green room for guests on Richard & Judy’s TV show at the Albert Dock), it’s now moored up in a peaceful spot on the city’s Wapping Wharf, handy for visits to the SS Great Britain and to Cargo, a collection of restaurants, cafes and street food stalls set in former shipping containers. Geothermally heated, inside there is a custom-built kitchen plus decent showers, a large lounge area (wifi is free) and a range of bedrooms, including doubles, dorms and family rooms. In Manchester’s Northern Quarter, the 200-bed Hilton Chambers branch of Hatter’s Hostel re-opened in February after a major refurbishment. Now featuring 15 private rooms (decorated with local artwork) and 20 dormitory rooms (each with en-suite bathrooms and memory foam mattresses), it also offers guests free breakfasts. The building is also home to a new all-day deli, diner and cocktail bar, West Corner, overseen by ex-Hawksmoor chef Romin Farahini, where the focus is on produce sourced from local suppliers including Barbakan Bakery, Out of the Blue fishmongers, Gornall’s Dairy, The Butcher’s Quarter and Heart & Graft coffee roasters. Further north still, a cluster of 18th-century buildings by the sea in Portsoy, a village on the Moray Firth, have been restored and turned into The Sail Loft bunkhouse. A former sail-maker’s loft, Georgian house and two cottages, the four-star hostel can sleep up to 25 (and store bikes for the same number), in a range of dorms and family rooms. It also has an open-plan kitchen and dining area and a lounge with a woodburner. Thoughtfully designed for families as well as independent travellers, high chairs, travel cots and toys and games can all be borrowed. For grown-ups there’s a barbecue area and, for an extra charge, you can have dip in a stylish wood-fired hot tub while stargazing (the Northern Lights have even, occasionally, been spotted from it). On Mull, Achaban House poshtel and bunkhouse is also new this year. Spread across a 19th-century manse and a neighbouring cottage, a mile from Fionnphort, its six en suite hostel rooms sleep 14 while the bunkhouse sleeps a further eight. Beds and bunks are dressed with white bedlinen and pretty woollen throws and, outside, there are six acres of grounds for children to let off steam in. Fionnphort is also handy for ferries to Iona and boat trips to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. In Glencoe the iconic Kings House Hotel (currently undergoing a major overhaul) has recently opened a bunkhouse in its grounds. A sleek timber building, designed by Scottish architect, Ben Tindall, it is likely to become a popular stopping off point for walkers tackling the West Highland Way. In the country’s capital, Safestay Edinburgh is also within its first year of operation. Right in the heart of the city’s Old Town, this large (272-bed) hostel has been significantly renovated, having previously operated as the Smart City Hostel. While its bedrooms and dorm rooms are fairly basic all are en-suite and the reception area, with its exposed stone walls and wing-backed arm chairs, has a buzz about it. As well as hostel essentials like lockers and cycle racks, there’s also a bar and kitchen. Over in Northern Ireland, the Hutt Hostel re-opened earlier this year following a renovation and extension. Set right by the sea in Newcastle, a hub for adventure activity enthusiasts in Co. Down, it’s also a useful base for anyone planning to head out into the Mourne Mountains for hiking and biking. Back south, in the South Downs to be precise, the 20-bed South Downs Bunkhouse opened earlier this year. Converted from a beautiful old brick stable block on Houghton Farm, bunk rooms here are chic and bright with memory foam mattresses, thick plaid curtains and solid timber doors. A spin-off from the owners’ farm B&B business, this is run with the same hands-on care. And in Wales, Fishguard’s tiny Hamilton Lodge (it sleeps just nine) has just had a refurbishment, in its trademark homely style. Greener hostels Holidaying in the UK’s hostels is a pretty low-impact way to holiday but if you’re looking for accommodation with a deeper commitment to sustainability, over a quarter of the hostels and bunkhouses in the Independent Hostels UK network have a dedicated green ethos; many also offer discounts for guests arriving on foot, by bike or on public transport. Two to watch include The Old Brooder Bunkhouse, outside Lavenham in Sussex, and BB’s Bunkhouse on the north coast of Scotland. The Old Brooder is in its first year of operation and takes a whole-farm approach to conservation. Joiner-made oak beds, colourful kantha bedspreads and patterned kitchen floor tiles give the 20-bed, exclusive-use property character while energy is solar- and sustainable timber-powered, there are 20 bikes for guests to borrow and guests can help themselves to a herb garden. Groups can also sign up for eco-adventure activities and country skills courses. When BB's Bunkhouse, a new barn conversion, opens later this summer it will be the most northerly hostel on the Scottish mainland. In the village of East Mey, on the North Coast 500 route, its heating will be air-source and solar-powered.  Sleeping up to 10, the nightly rate will include a home-cooked, locally sourced breakfast while homemade veggie readymeals will also be available to buy. Other green hostel developments this year include those of Outdoor Alternative, in Anglesey, whose eco initiatives include the installation of an electric car and charging point, Badrallach Bothy, near Ullapool, which plans to start running nature-based wellbeing courses, and Helmsdale Hostel, in Sutherland, which is currently closed for the installation of renewable energy heating and water systems. Not-so-new new hostels Finally, with the announcement that the YHA has, this year, cut ties with some of its affiliate partners (notably rural camping barns), there is now a new crop of fully independent hostels joining the flock. Among them are the The Elenydd Wilderness Hostels, in the Cambrian Mountains; its 20-bed Dolgoch property is a pretty whitewashed farmhouse overlooking spectacular scenery, that’s completely off-grid. Hot water and lighting are solar-powered and heating is via a wood-burning stove. Just remember to book early. A boom is coming for hostel accommodation according to Keith Legge, the outgoing chief executive of the Scottish Youth Hostels Association. Legge recently declared that hostels have come full circle in the digital age. A growing number of guests “don’t want fluffy towels and TVs in their rooms but are more interested in authentic experiences, protecting the environment, in fitness, well-being and adventure”, he stated, even if what they are escaping from these days “is not factories and coal mines but their computer screens and smart devices.” More information: Independent Hostels UK

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Broads, Jackie King and Nic Forsyth pick out the options for a greener holiday among this magical waterland in the East of England. Photos: Diana Jarvis/Green Traveller The Broads is an atmospheric wilderness of 125 miles of lock-free rivers and lakes, of huge skies and far-off horizons. Unsurprisingly, it is regarded as Britain’s magical waterland. Three main rivers – the Yare, Waveney and Bure – flow into large expanses created by Middle Ages’ peat-digging. It’s the resultant lakes and rivers that inspire visitors and locals to hop on all kinds of vessels and explore the easily navigable waterways. Canoes and classic, engine-less Broads’ sailing boats are arguably the best way to explore the area, but we reckon that walkers and cyclists get a lot of bang for their buck, too, from trails, woodlands and river paths. The omnipresent watery stretches give off an ever-changing quality of light – as vivid as the brightest filter one moment, soft and silvery the next. And, always, the sound of birdsong, the spectacle of swooping harriers and the ethereal flutter of butterflies; at Hickling Broad from late May you may catch the Swallowtail, one of Britain’s largest butterflies. The Broads sits next to the Norfolk coastal AONB and runs into the neighbouring county of Suffolk, too. It’s an area that covers less than 1% of the country’s land area, yet is home to more than a quarter of species of rare wildlife, such as cuckoos and voles. Where to stay in the Broads We’ve picked an eclectic mix of the region’s accommodation, from self-catering in a windmill to the luxury of boutique hotels. Each makes a positive environmental difference, whether it’s painstaking sourcing of local produce by their chefs or composting, recycling or installing self-sustaining sources of power to reduce their carbon footprint. Wherever you stay from our selection you can be sure you will be in the company of those who care and who want to ensure that this beautiful place is here for you to enjoy for years to come. Our pick of the many self-catering cottages in the Broads is Cranmer Country Cottages whose award-winning self-catering converted barns are a great base from which to explore the Broads as well as the stunning north Norfolk coastline. Our reviewer Richard Hammond says: “I can't think of another five-star self-catering accommodation in the UK that is as green as Cranmer. There's under floor heating throughout the cottages, and hot water and space heating are supplemented by solar, wind power and a ground heat source pump. Cranmer is well worth the visit - particularly for families/groups who want modern facilities, and anyone that likes a decent-sized swimming pool." If you're looking for a luxury hotel, Strattons in the market town of Swaffham sets the gold eco standard for luxury hotels. It has been way ahead of the curve; Vanessa the owner has been paring back her ecological footprint for many years now at her Grade-II listed Queen Anne villa. Stylish, artistic and pleasingly wild here and there, Strattons has 14 rooms, canopied four-posters, open fires, free-standing baths and serves outstanding food. The Norfolk Mead Hotel also hits the boutique hotel notes, yet is warm and personal, too, run as it is by owners James and Anna and a close-knit team. There is an acre of landscaped gardens and a lake to explore, plus a spa service offering massages. Children and dogs are welcome. For B&B with great locally sourced farm produce for breakfast, head to Dairy Barns on the outskirts of Hickling village, within touching distance of the coast at Sea Palling. There are 6 lovely B&B rooms and 3 suites, plus two self-catering cottages on what remains a working farm. Dairy Barns form part of Lound Farm, a working family farm covering 360 acres of environmentally managed grazing marshes and arable land owned and run by Hannah and Ian Deane who have created a very relaxed atmosphere, a gentle smattering of luxury and plenty of flexibility. Farmhouse suppers available on request as are picnics. Super-fresh and stylish sums up Mill Farm Eco Barns – the Eco Barn sleeps 8 while the Hay Barn is just for 2 people. Owners Neil and Emma have a deep love for the area; Neil helps protect the Broads National Park and Emma is a committed environmentalist and local food champ. They have a burgeoning kitchen garden and their welcoming cakes are legendary apparently! The Eco Barn has a living space, twin room and wet room all on one floor with wide doorways so is suitable for wheelchair users, as is Hay Barn. If you're looking for a budget stay, then Deepdale Backpackers & Camping is a backpackers' hostel and campsite on the Norfolk Coast where you can choose from a range of self-catering accommodation: private ensuite rooms; tipis; yurts; shepherds huts; camping for tents and campervans; group hostel with dorm beds. It's open all year round, even during Christmas and New Year. The hostel and campsite are a great place just to chill out or be as active as you like. All the facilities you need are on the doorstep, including a cafe, information centre, supermarket, shops, walking and hiking, cycling, watersports and kiting. You can hire bikes from Deepdale Bike Hire or bring your own; enjoy watersports and kiting along the coast or pull on a pair of walking boots and go for a yomp. The Coasthopper frequent bus service runs to and from the front door so you can abandon your car and embrace the public transport confident that it will be reliable. For the full-on Broads experience, opt for a floating home from Boats at Richardsons. Established for over 60 years, and still a family-owned and -run firm, based in the small town of Stalham, Richardson’s has the largest fleet of motor cruisers on the Broads - for first timers as well as experienced boaties. It’s long been one of the more traditional boatyards, but is beginning to reinvent itself by investing in new craft with low-wash hulls and solar panels, and is a silver member of the Green Business Tourism Scheme. They have a vast array of boats, available at a mind-boggling range of prices, and are a great choice if you want to start your journey among some of the lesser-explored reaches of the Northern Broads. Watch the sun come up over the water with a cuppa and see it disappear with a beer. For a more traditional option, Boats at Hunter's Yard - a charity dedicated to preserving and celebrating the classic wooden Broads yachts and half-decker sailing boats - rents them by the day, week or more for you to stay afloat, or take a skippered sail to give you a taster. Where to eat in the Broads East Anglia is in the throes of a mini food revolution, and Norfolk is at the heart of it, with increasing numbers of places celebrating the best of the rich store of local produce the area has to offer, from locally caught fish and meat reared organically to the full breadth of the arable produce that defines the county’s landscape. The Broads has taken a little while to raise its reputation for great food and there have been some riverside pubs failing to live up to the magic of their settings. Things have changed, though, and there are fabulous places run by people not just with a passion for food and drink, but with a mission to bring the best of the local area to visitors. Who doesn’t love an excellent farm shop? Aisles filled with the best of Norfolk produce and the freshest fish will see you filling up your basket at Farm to Fork & Fish. Snaffle delicious items for your picnic hamper – how about freshly made scotch eggs, serrano ham, artisan bread and zingy chutneys for starters? Binham Blue, Norfolk Dapple and White Lady may catch your eye, too, if you’re planning a cheese board. Wroxham Barns is a mecca for all the family – the sort of place you’re delighted to find, especially if the weather is unkind… a bit of retail therapy for the adults, a junior farm, fun park, artists’ studios and a fresh airy restaurant serving meals throughout the day, including afternoon tea and Sunday roast. Or maybe the Farmyard Café works better if you’ve little ones in tow. They can create their own lunchbox from a range of dishes and eat al fresco. Another place that packs a big punch is The Galley in Horning, which is a delicatessen, café and gift shop rolled in to one in this charming village. Vegans are catered for with dishes such as beetroot falafel and smashed avocado or homemade coconut date and banana bars, or you can choose local cheeses and hams for a lunchtime sandwich. Bikes to borrow for outings, too. When it comes to fish restaurants there’s something reassuring about a chalkboard menu – it smacks of daily changing menus driven by the day’s catch. Perfect! At The Bure River Cottage Restaurant that’s just what you get. Find specials like Brancaster or Morston mussels, local crab and lobster and gently smoked salmon. Great service too, from staff who seem to genuinely like working here. Where to visit in the Broads Salhouse, Trinity (visit by boat only), Wheaften, Barton, Ranworth and Upton are just a few of the 63 Broads. Just 13 broads are fully open to navigation, with others having navigable channels. All Broads offer different experiences and it’s worth a little research ahead of time to see which fits your mood and, arguably, the weather! The largest and perhaps the prettiest is Hickling Broad in the upper reaches of the Thurne river. The Norfolk Wildlife Trust runs it and offers a good range of facilities to help you get the most of your day out. Children are well catered for at Bewilderwood, where a homespun fantasy world brings to life a series of books by a local author. And they will love the Bure Valley Railway, which runs steam and diesel engines. Fairhaven Water Gardens is the Broads writ-small: a pristine piece of wet woodland edging its very own stretch of water at South Walsham Broad. From here you can take a boat trip around the Broad or to St Benet’s Abbey. Woodforde Brewery is the place to go to experience the alchemy of mixing a few key ingredients to create something memorable… visit the tap room, the brewery, the café and their own pub, The Fur & Feather. Things to do in the Broads The Broads is the perfect environment for activities of all kinds and you can explore on the water, on foot or by bicycle. Even if you’re not permanently afloat you can get out on the water in numerous ways: hire a day boat or canoe, take a guided canoe tour of the region’s wildlife, or take a skippered wooden dinghy for a spot of sailing. We’ve listed lots of the best – and greenest – alternatives, but the Broads Authority also has lots of information on where to hire bikes, canoes and boats, and indeed where best to take them. You can also explore the Broads on foot by way of marked paths through designated nature reserves, plus the 35-mile Wherryman’s Way and Weaver’s Way pass through the region. Bushcraft, bankside tepees, snorkelling and guided canoe trails conjure up the Swallows & Amazons vibe offered by The CanoeMan. There are wildlife activities and trips offered throughout the year. A larger-scale guided experience is aboard the Broads Tours trips, where your glide through the waters is accompanied by refreshments and tannoy commentary. Getting to the Broads by public transport It’s easy to reach the Broads without a car: Norwich is on the main line from London Liverpool Street, which takes in Colchester and Ipswich, and also reachable direct from Peterborough, from where there are numerous connections to both the Midlands (Birmingham, Leicester) and the north west (Liverpool, Manchester). From Norwich there are two branch lines: the Wherry Line, which runs due east, through both the Northern and Southern Broads, from Norwich to Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, taking in Acle, Brundall, Reedham and Berney Arms, and the Bittern Line, which heads up to Sheringham on Norfolk’s north coast, taking in Salhouse, Wroxham & Hoveton, North Walsham and Cromer. The most obvious place to head for is Wroxham & Hoveton, just fifteen minutes out of Norwich, which has the best onward transport options and many boatyards and facilities; it’s also a short bus or cycle ride from Horning and Ludham. Acle and Brundall are also good spots, or you could start your exploration of the Broads further south, in Lowestoft and Oulton Broad, or in nearby Beccles, reachable from Ipswich or Lowestoft, and gradually head north. Getting around the Broads By boat: really, this is the only way to see the Broads, if only because it is genuinely the only way to get to some of the best places. You’re in the perfect place for a spot of novice boating: you don’t need any experience, at least for a motor cruiser or canoe, and although the major centres are crowded in peak season, with a bit of planning and a sense of adventure it’s not usually hard to escape the crowds. There are boatyards all over, but the main centres are Wroxham, Horning, Ludham and Potter Heigham in the northern Broads, and Brundall, Reedham, Beccles and Lowestoft in the southern Broads. By bus: It’s possible, if not particularly recommended, to get around by bus once you’re here but, other than major services between Norwich and Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft, and from Norwich to Wroxham and up to North Walsham, frequencies are not good. Indeed, with the rivers providing the most direct routes anyway, buses are only really recommended for onward connections to the major centres, rather than as a way of touring. By bike: the Broads is a great place to see by bike - it is flat and cycling can be easily combined with a spot of boating. There could – and should – be more designated off-road cycle paths, however, the roads are often quiet enough for it not to matter too much. Among many bike hire outlets are Cippesby Hall, Broadland Bike hire at Bewilderwood, and the CanoeMan in Wroxham, well placed for heart of the northern Broads; Sea Palling Bike Hire over on the coast at Waxham Barn is another option and in the southern Broads you can hire bikes at the Waveney River Centre in Burgh St Peter. For more ideas of places to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities, see Green Traveller’s Guide to the Broads

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast, Nicola Forsyth picks out some of the things to see and do along this Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, which spans 39 miles of coastline from Berwick-upon-Tweed in the north to the Coquet Estuary near Alnmouth. Marvel at the dramatic scenery; explore salt marshes and spot the numerous species of birds along this glorious stretch of coastline. The coast is also home to an isolated archipelago – the Farne Islands. While the cluster of 15-20 islands has no permanent human population, it does count numerous species of birds, including puffins, and a grey seal colony. Photos: Diana Jarvis/Green Traveller Where to stay The Northumberland Coast has a wide range of accommodation for all budgets, from caravan parks catering for families to luxury stays in traditionally decorated castles. Ramblers and ornithologists should head straight to the dunes of the north coast between the mainland and Lindisfarne for the best chances of spotting the 170 or so native bird species. One such place overlooking Holy Island is Fenham Farm, which offers seven independently accessed en-suite rooms, converted from original farm buildings. During winter bird spotters spy some of the six internationally important species of wildfowl and wading birds that reside in Lindisfarne Nature Reserve. The farm’s commitment to sustainability has earned it a Gold award from the Green Tourism Business Scheme. Heritage seekers can bed down in a 200 year old former Presbyterian church with a pulpit that watches over those communing at breakfast. St Cuthbert's House is a 5-star luxury B&B located in a 200 year old former church in the village of Seahouses on the coast, and near the Cheviot Hills. If you want to experience staying in a Medieval Castle then Langley Castle Hotel is for you. It has nine rooms within the Castle and another 18 within the grounds. It’s luxurious but traditional features include four-poster beds, oak-panelled walls and an open fire in the drawing room. The castle is perfectly located for wandering the woodlands and open meadows of the South Tyne valley. Game of Thrones fans can even have a themed wedding here! For a cosy cottage stay with evenings spent gazing into a campfire there's Laverock Law - in two acres of woodland and within a stone’s throw of the coast, castles and wildlife, you’ll have plenty to occupy yourself with if you don’t succumb to merely relaxing. You can also enroll on a bread-making or felt-making course. For something a little more unusual, Springhill Farm offers a number of wigwams, complete with firepits and velux windows for stargazing. If that doesn’t take your fancy, there’s always the old cowshed which has been transformed into a bunkhouse that sleeps 32 guests, or a number of cottages and hideaways to choose from and a campsite. The location is in close proximity to the beach, walking and cycling routes, Banburgh Castle and the Alnwick Garden. Where to eat It wouldn’t be right to be so close to the North Sea and not indulge in the local fruits of the sea - including fresh lobster, crab stotties and kippers and brown bread and butter. Unsurprisingly, many of the eateries proudly serve locally-sourced food. Sniff out a local fishing hub, such as Seahouses and Craster. If you visit the former be sure to stop by Swallowfish - a traditional smokery hidden above the harbour on South Street where you’ll witness producers using methods that date back 170 years to smoke their catch over oak sawdust. Legend has it this may be the birthplace of the smoked kipper. The kitchen has an array of seafood and seasonal shellfish, including homemade potted shrimp. One place to sample Craster kippers, crab stotties and award winning pies - along with a pint of real ale from its microbrewery - is The Ship Inn. Nestled between fishermen’s cottages in Low Newton, it has the feel of being in someone’s front room and sometimes plays host to live music. It gets busy at lunchtime so get there early. To try more local delicacies such as Border tart (rich fruit tart encrusted in pastry), singing hinnies (Northumbrian bannock) with jam and clotted cream or its signature homemade Lavender cake head to The Lavender Tea Rooms in the pretty village of Etal. A bit of a one stop shop, the cafe is also up a post office, general store and garden centre! Bookworms can combine their love of literature with a dose of caffeine and cake at Barter Books. Situated in a Victorian railway station designed by William Bell in 1887, its shelves are filled with secondhand books. The once forgotten room now houses the Station Buffet, cosy armchair and fire for you to enjoy your food while getting lost in a book. For dessert or a well earned pit stop try Doddington’s ice cream, which also has a few ‘locally flavoured’ ice creams including Newcastle Brown Ale, Alnwick Rum Truffle and Roman Britain. To stock up on local goodies before heading home, drop by Alnwick Farmers’ Market (the last Friday of each month). As well as artisanal food and drink - from game to homemade kiln bread - it also has a number of craft stalls selling vintage gifts and jewellery. Check if your visit coincides with one of the market’s events, including live music. Where to visit A paradise for boat trippers, ramblers, cyclists and bird spotters, the Northumberland coast is full of outdoors adventures. The Farne Islands is a must for animal lovers. Famous for its 37,000 pairs of puffins, jumplings (guillemot chicks) and arctic terns, it attracts many species of birds. It is also home to a large colony of Atlantic or Grey Seals. If you time your visit between autumn and winter you may witness pupping season, when more than 2,000 pups are born. One way to take in the coastal views while wildlife spotting is on a boat trip. Choose from a number of tour operators, including Golden Gate Farne Islands Boat Trips, which has a choice of five tours, taking in seabird and seal colonies as well as tours designed for ornithologists, photographers and local history enthusiasts. Serenity Boat Tours runs a sunset cruise, whale watching tour and a wildlife photography workshop with conservation photographer Alan Hewitt - with a 360º stable platform on board to help customers capture the perfect photo. The Shiel family have been guiding visitors around the Farne Islands since 1918 and today Billy Shiel's Farne Islands Tours runs a large choice of boat trips, taking in puffins on Staple Island, a cruise of Holy Island and whale and dolphin watching. For more local history of the waters, RNLI Grace Darling Museum, pays tribute to the life of 22-year-old Grace Darling, a lighthouse keeper’s daughter, who risked her life by rowing out to reach nine survivors of the wrecked SS Forfarshire in 1838. History buffs may want to visit one - or a number - of the local castles and pay homage to more turbulent times gone by. 16th Century Lindisfarne Castle was particularly vulnerable in its day, but has since been subjected to a refurbishment with natural materials to create a rustic, spartan space. Bamburgh Castle also took a battering from Viking raids, sieges and revolts before being restored to its former glory by Victorian industrialist Lord Armstrong (who also built nearby Cragside) can we link to Cragside in the Northumberland NP blog? Today you can wander the 14 public rooms, take in the 2,000 artefacts and scare yourself witness with (literally) haunting tales of ghostly goings on at the castle. Arguably the highlight of your trip, Dunstanburgh Castle, also boasts a number of grisly tales - allegedly including the decapitated ghost of Thomas Plantagenet, who was executed for treason in 1322. The castle was built on the remains of an Iron Age hill fort between 1313-1322, and as a result of fierce fighting, changed hands a number of times during the War of the Roses. To witness history brought to life through costumed guides, visit Alnwick Castle, Britain’s second largest inhabited castle, which dates back to the Norman period. Horticulturists will want to stop by The Alnwick Garden, which boasts 300 variations of English rose and the world’s largest Tai Haku Cherry Orchard within its 12 acres. As well as water sculptures that explore the effects of physics on water, there’s also a Poison Garden with more than 100 toxic plants such as deadly nightshade, foxglove, strychnine and hemlock. Things to do The North Sea coastline has something for waterbabies and land lovers alike. While cold, the waters are clear and teeming with marine life and ship wrecks for those willing to go a little deeper while adrenaline junkies can get their kicks surfing the waves in a kayak or wild swimming. On dry land, you can learn the history behind the landscapes on a geowalk with Northumbrian Earth. Combine your walk with wild swimming to Linhope Spout and explore the history of St Cuthbert’s Cave or book onto a mountain training or map and compass reading course with Footsteps Northumberland. For a guided tour of the 700 years of border history along Berwick’s Elizabethan walls, try Explore Northumberland which will also allow you a peek inside buildings not normally open to the public. For hiking tours on Holy Island, an important nature reserve, which is also the “cradle of Christianity” for pagan Northumbria, consider the selection of tours on offer at Holy Island Hikes. If you’d rather go solo, there’s 64 miles of coastal pathways awaiting your exploration running from Cresswell in the south up to Berwick in the north. Northumberland Coast Path takes in dramatic cliffs, sandy beaches, hidden coves, colourful fishing villages and ancient castles. The path is mostly well signposted, following bridleways and footpaths and can easily be divided into six day-long sections. Thrill seekers looking to surf in a kayak, rock climb, paddle the River Coquet or camp out on a 2-day adventure in the less-explored side of Kielder Water check out Adventure Northumberland. Water sports fans looking to learn to sail, kayak, canoe, windsurf, powerboat and build rafts can consider Coquet Shorebase Trust. Bird lovers may want to kayak to eider and shelduck duckling creches or take a guided tour to Coquet Island, a tiny RSPB reserve that’s home to 35,000 nesting terns, kittiwakes, fulmar, gulls and eider ducks in summer. Sovereign Diving will help you explore shipwrecks and search for conger eels, wolfish, spider crabs, brittle stars, sea urchins and sun stars as well as the local seal colony. For more ideas on where to stay, local food and drink, visitor attractions and activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to the Northumberland Coast

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to the North York Moors, Nicola Forsyth explores one of England’s largest heather moorlands, its woodlands, dales, valleys and great British coastline. Lose yourself in the Moors - before finding yourself tucking into world famous fish and chips in Whitby or learning about the lives of one or two classic writers who often visited this glorious National Park in the north of England. Photos: North York Moors National Park Authority Where to stay Choose from the stately comfort of country houses, period B&Bs nestled in bustling market towns, converted farm buildings and even novelty and themed accommodation. The quaint market town of Pickering makes for a good base, or there’s the castle-guarded Helmsley where you can discover the southern and western reaches. On the east coast you’ll find Boggle Hole, Ravenscar or Whitby or Danby to the North. If you do love to be beside the seaside, then head East to the popular seaside resorts of Scarborough or Whitby just a little further north of the North Sea coast. Whilst known for their classic British seaside town charm, you’ll find 4* comfort (and a spa) in Crown Spa Hotel. Perched on a cliff top overlooking South Bay beach, the listed period building has been awarded a Sustainable Tourism Award in the Enjoy England Awards for Excellence. Head further North towards Whitby and you’ll stumble across Raven Hall Country House Hotel, which sits 600 feet above sea level, overlooking Robin Hood's Bay. Whilst the main hotel is steeped in history - having been first built in 1774 - it has now has the more recent addition of eight Finnish-designed environmentally-friendly lodges. To combine your break with learning a new skill, Cober Hill Hotel in Cloughton specialises in creative holidays - including photography, lacemaking, jewelry making, painting and stained glass. If themed escapes are more your thing, and it’s been a lifelong dream to stay in a Wild West themed holiday park, then you’re in luck. Family friendly, Pinewood Holiday Park, less than two miles out of Scarborough, is the UK’s only - complete with tipis, wagons and cowboy camping shacks. Furnishings are simple so check in advance what you need to bring. If you’re of a more “Curiouser and curiouser” disposition, then look no further than the cliff top La Rosa in Whitby. A famed favourite of Lewis Carroll (its blue plaque confirms the tales), it will take you down the rabbit hole and into a world of kitsch antiques, all carefully collected from thrift stores and used to decorate each of its rooms in a unique style. Throw in views of the Harbour and Whitby Abbey and you’ll be grinning like the Cheshire cat. If you want award winning accommodation complete with a champagne bar, then 17 Burgate in Pickering is for you. It’s a renovated Georgian townhouse B&B with a cosy wood-burning stove, cruelty-free toiletries, homemade bread at breakfast, and just a few minutes stroll from the castle. When it comes to eco travel, how much more sustainable can you get than staying in a former train carriage? The Old Station in Pickering offers self catering stays in three formerly first class carriages, originally built in the late 1960s in Derby. Now renovated to offer all mod cons - and no less than 2-3 bedrooms each. To unwind and shut off, venture a little deeper inland into the Moors and hole up in Kale Pot Cottage. From the doorstep of this 18th Century barn you can easily join the North York Moors’ network of cycle and walking paths. Enjoy living as one with nature - and look out for badgers and foxes, which are frequently sighted on the three acres of land in which the cottage sits. Even further inland, the marketown of Helmsley is a good base for exploring the North York Moors National Park. The Carlton Lodge, a grand B&B perfectly located just inside the Park gives way to many long and short distance trails leading into the moors - making it a paradise for cyclists, walkers and star gazers. It’s well stocked with maps and guides, so no excuses for not booting up and heading out. Family and dog friendly visitors looking for a more back to basics style stay will be pleased to know there are five YHA hostels in the area - Boggle Hole, Whitby, Scarborough, Dalby Forest and Helmsley. Boggle Hole, which is mere steps from the beach near Robin Hood’s Bay, which recently added the Crow's Nest - an environmentally friendly building that can sleep 44 people, in addition to the 42 beds in the original building, the Old Mill. Where to eat The hills, fields and seas surrounding the Moors are home to an abundance of homegrown vegetables, rare-breed cattle, sheep, pigs, game, seafood and fish - so wherever you eat, you can be fairly certain your food is as local as it gets. And it would be almost criminal to leave Whitby without sampling its (freshly caught) fish and chips - arguably the best in the UK. All of the eateries listed in this guide, from pubs in slumbering hamlets and vintage tearooms to chic restaurants and country inns, take pride in their produce, many growing their own vegetables and salads in gardens and allotments – and the result is a distinctive array of flavours unique to the region. The Cleveland Tontine has it all - formal dining in the bisto and conservatory while more relaxed dining and lighter snacks are served in the lounge area or the Morning room - and private dining options, including the ‘snug’. They have strong relationships with local suppliers and can trace their produce from field to fork. For a “rustic gourmet bolthole” as it describes itself, head to the Star Inn in Harome, just outside Helmsley. Star by name and nature, the 14th Century inn has been awarded a Michelin star for its culinary creations. For truly decadent dining in a traditional pub setting, the Black Swan in Oldstead boasts a Michelin Star and three AA Rosettes. The seasonal and locally grown or foraged menu is the work of Chef Tommy Banks - Britain’s youngest Michelin-starred chef in 2013. The artistry doesn’t stop with the food - the coffee and most of the spirits, herbal teas and cocktails are unique to the pub, or feature herbs and botanicals from the garden. For a very intimate eating and drinking experience, Birch Hall Inn, just 10 miles south of Whitby is made up of two tiny bars - separated by a sweet shop - whose record attendance is 30 people, and two small dogs. The menu is simple - think pie, stotties and scones - but be sure to try its famous Beck Hole beer cake as you listen to folklore tales of a giant worm with the mouth of a dragon that was said to have lived in the nearby forests before being slain. If you crave a little after dinner entertainment, the New Inn & Cropton Brewery near Pickering has nightly live music and offers tours of its brewery which is conveniently located in its garden, so no excuses not to! The small and family-run pub has a separate dining room, village bar, conservatory and cosy coffee lounge. At the southern edge of the National Park, in the small village of Gillamoor, you’ll find the Royal Oak - a Grade-II-listed 17th-century inn serving up an a la carte menu of local produce, and many vegetarian options. There are eight bedrooms should you decide to stay a little longer. For lighter and on-the-go options, the Moors offers an array of quaint cafes, farm shops and bakeries steeped in tradition or with the addition of arts and crafts. Cedarbarn Farm Shop and Cafe is an eco-conscious husband and wife outfit offering locally sourced and reared food with its own butchery, shop, miniature railway and growing fields for customers to pick their own fruit. Walkers attempting the Coast to Coast Path and nature lovers marvelling at nearby Falling Foss waterfall should consider stopping at Falling Foss Tea Garden for a sandwich or cream tea. The seasonal cafe (check opening times) is nestled in the grounds of Midge Hall, a tiny cottage which lay abandoned for half a century, before being restored in 2008. Visitors with a sweet tooth may want to take a trip down memory lane at Suggitt’s Café and Shop. Originally as an ice cream shop in 1925, it now stocks a retro range of sweets and confectionery. Be warned - queues can become very long in the summer months. Ice cream lovers shouldn’t miss the opportunity to sample the array of flavours on offer at Ryeburn in Helmsley - twice voted best in the country. I mean, it’d be rude not to! The Black Cherry ice cream was recently named national winner and the Toffee and Fudge and Cookies and Cream previously won gold in the National Ice Cream awards. If these gastronomic delights tickle your tastebuds why not try your luck as a budding chef while you’re here? Arches Cookery School offers lessons from its chef Sarah Muir, who has been personal chef to a number of music’s greats (including Elton John, The Prodigy, Whitney Houston, George Michael and Bob Dylan to namerop a few…). A family-run affair, the school uses vegetables and herbs grown by Sarah’s mother. Put your new found skills to use once you return home - but be sure to stock up on your local favourites first at the weekly Friday morning Wykeham Village Market, where you’ll find everything cheese, fresh or frozen game, handmade cookies to hand tied flowers and locally grown plants. Where to visit The Moors not only provides a natural playground - from its coastline to its expansive wilderness - but it has also nurtured the artistic talents of many painters, photographers, carvers and craftspeople, meaning there is much to see and experience during your stay. Starting with Byland Abbey, which was discovered in the 12th Century by Savigniac monks. The historic building, whose long history has seen it sacked by Robert the Bruce, devastated by the Black Death and surrendered to Henry VIII, was a blueprint for the ideal monastic architecture and the inspiration for the rose window at York Minster. To continue your history tour, consider visiting a castle or two. 900 year old Helmsley Castle is one of the region’s finest and most important, beginning life as a medieval fortress before becoming a Tudor mansion and then a Civil War stronghold. Meanwhile, Pickering Castle harks back to the days when the market town was a thriving strategic centre of 13th Century northern England - and was once a royal hunting lodge and home for medieval kings. To retrace the footsteps of ancient ancestors, embark on the mile long stretch of the Wheeldale Roman Road. Art lovers won’t be disappointed in the Moors. To view local masterpieces, or hone your own artistic talents, drop by Staithes Gallery & Art School where lessons often take place in the fresh sea air of the little fishing village. If you visit in September you may catch the Staithes Festival which celebrates its artistic history - starting with the 19th century Staithes Group of Artists to today. Whilst you’re here, why not make the most of the fishing village’s heritage and take a fishing or wildlife boat trip with Real Staithes. Families can get up close and personal with animals at Betton Farm before enjoying a picnic of freshly baked bread, cakes and snacks from the onsite cafe. Run by social enterprise, Basics Plus, it provides training and work opportunities for young people with learning difficulties – which you’ll be supporting with your visit. Things to do The diverse landscape of the area means you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to activities - and why not when there are so many tasty local dishes and specialty foods to reward yourself with afterwards. Inntravel offers a self-guided Yorkshire Gastronomic Walking holiday with exactly this in mind. Gone Mountain Biking in Pickering, offers a similar service for cyclists. To explore the moorland and forestry by horseback, Bilsdale Riding Centre has a wide selection of horses and ponies and treks for all abilities. For more independent travel, there’s a dizzying array of walking and cycling trails to tackle, from gentle day strolls to multi-day adventures. A walk around the 6,800-acre Conservation Area of Fylingdales Moor near Whitby may reward you with a glimpse of its rare wildlife. Managed by the Hawk and Owl Trust, the moorland is managed with environmentally sustainable techniques. Adrenaline junkies will be well catered for at Carlton Lodge Activity Centre in Thirsk. Popular with schools, scout groups, youth clubs and corporate away days, its programmes are designed to boost self-confidence and team working skills through activities including archery, caving and zip lining to name a few. To truly take in the scenery here, you enjoy the breathtaking views from 33,000ft in a glider with Yorkshire Gliding Club. Water babies may prefer sailing, windsurfing or open water swimming with Scaling Dam Sailing Club. If you never thought you’d find a surfing spot up North, think again - the seaside town of Saltburn serves up some decent waves for and you can take lessons with Flow Surf School. For more ideas of eco breaks in the North York Moors, including places to stay, local food and drink, attractions and activities, see our: Green Traveller's Guide to the North York Moors

As part of our celebration of the eight Welsh Protected Landscapes, Sarah Baxter discovers the Clwydian Range & Dee Valley AONB offers a fantastic range of outdoor adventure Is the Dee Valley the UK’s most active valley? I think it might be. After a brief introduction to it I’ll tell you why I am face down in the raging white water of the River Dee steeling myself for my own almighty adventure. The Dee Valley was added to North Wales’s Clwydian Range AONB in 2011, more than doubling the size of the existing Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. And it IS outstanding. The Dee has long been considered a special river: its name derives from the Celtic ‘deva’, meaning River of the Goddess. The landscapes all around it are dramatic - from endlessly interfolding hills to sharp-edged escarpments - and the history is deep and diverse. However, the Dee Valley is more than a pretty picture or a fascinating history lesson. It’s a playground for everyone, which brings me back to that impending tidal wave... The reason I am facing down an angry burble of ice-cold river is because I am aboard a bodyboat, a sort of sun-lounger for adrenalin junkies. You lay on a contoured piece of plastic on your belly and paddle with your arms; there are handles on the sides but, unlike a kayak, nothing to keep you in. Antony Fleming-Williams started his bodyboating company in 2015 and he is the country’s only commercial operator of these easy-to-hop-on vessels. I am braving the February chill to fling myself head first down the Dee with Antony, negotiating the 3-km stretch from Horseshoe Falls (a Telford-designed weir, built in 1808) to the town of Llangollen. I want to see if the valley can live up to its ‘most active’ claim, even in winter. Fortunately I am wearing A LOT of neoprene, including a pair of webbed gloves. “Congratulations,” says Antony, as I flex my fingers, “you are now half otter.” Despite the cosy wetsuit, I rather hope I might stay on my board; that the rapids raging ahead won’t toss me into their angry depths. No such luck. With a cold smack, I am off, spluttering in the whirling river, dunked, gasping, resurfacing, giggling like an idiot. Brilliant fun! This isn’t the only time the Dee beasts me. Bodyboating is simple – virtually anyone can have a go – but rapids have minds of their own. I paddle under the recently restored Chain Bridge that has spanned the river since 1817. I whoop successfully through the surf while glimpsing views up to the rolling hills, but I come a cropper again as we near Llangollen and a particularly gnarly swell jettisons me with gusto. I swim-laugh to the calm pool at the river’s edge, where Antony hauls me in, typically upbeat: “Perfect! What a leap! We needed to get off here anyway...” There’s arguably no way to get closer to the Dee than by bodyboating, your face mere inches from its eddies. However, this is far from the only way to get active in and around the valley. You can also raft, kayak, canoe or stand-up paddle. You can stroll, hike, cycle, hop on a horse-drawn barge, board the steam locos of the Llangollen Railway, or combine all of the above, perhaps cycling one way to the vertiginous Pontcysyllte Aquaduct, then taking a boat back. In fact, there’s no need for a car. Take a train to Chirk or Ruabon (about 2.5 hours from London, via Chester), then a quick bus to Llangollen, and a week-full of walking trails, heritage rails and waterways are yours for the taking. If you take the steam train along the valley to Glyndyfrdwy Station, you can disembark for something a little more sedate. Ant and Leanne, owners of Stand-Up Paddle Board UK, also offer archery in a meadow by the Dee. Wearing a Robin Hood hat is mandatory, Leanne insists, as she teaches me to ping arrows into the target. My first one disappears into the grass, but I blame my incompetency on the distracting views: glorious green folds brushed russet with winter bracken, all dotted with fluffy sheep. The Dee gurgles as I draw back my bow once more – an action that feels quite natural in this ancient borderland, where many such shots would have been fired between warring Saxons and Celts. Indeed, Offa’s Dyke Path National Trail, which follows the eighth-century earthwork that once divided England and Wales, runs the entire length of the Clwydian Range and Dee Valley AONB. Later I follow a tiny section of the historic footpath,where it skirts past Llangollen, to walk up onto the Trevor Rocks escarpment. The views – to the Berwyn Mountains and deeper into the Dee Valley – are striking, enhanced by a biblical sky, shafts of sunlight bursting through cloud like a message from the gods. Dominating my view is the snaggle-toothed hilltop ruin of Dinas Brân castle, built in the thirteenth century by a local Welsh prince on the site of a prehistoric fort. Some claim it’s also home to the legendary cup of Christ. Maybe, maybe not but, whether it is true or not, scores of adventurers regard the Dee Valley as something of a Holy Grail.

As we celebrate our Greentraveller's Guide to Lesvos and Chios, Sian Lewis explores the tastes of the island of Chios, from fragrant tangerines to treasured mastic sap. I don't think I've been anywhere where food is such a simple and yet integral part of day-to-day life as Chios. The so-called 'island of the senses' is aptly named for the fragrant scent of jasmine hanging heavily in evening air and the sight of the deep blue sea as you drive along the coastal roads, but the abiding sensorial memory I have of this charming, laid-back corner of the North Aegean is of taste. Admittedly, I'm the kind of person who daydreams about lunch whilst polishing off breakfast, but I'd bet that the lovingly prepared, simply served dishes that abound on Chios are enough to turn anyone into a serious foodie. Chios is the 5th largest Greek island and a place with a chequered and turbulent past, inextrictably linked to its gastronomical riches. Through the centuries the island was ruled by many different peoples and regularly invaded by pirates desperate for a taste of its bounty. Chios' coveted produce, such as scented tangerines, rich olives and priceless mastic sap, has even shaped its architecture. Hidden in the hills are fascinating fortified villages, designed to be unpenetrable to protect local farmers and their precious crops from unwanted visitors. And along the coast a line of watchtowers still stand proud, relics from the days when fires would be lit along the shoreline to announce approaching pirate ships. Chios may now be a peaceful place to visit but you can get a taste of wilder times. Many of the island's specialities are produced using centuries-old methods, and food is part of the rhythm of the day here - early one morning in Avgonyma I found hunters busy skinning rabbits outside my cottage, whilst in the evening twilight local women gathered in the squares of the village to gossip as they dexterously washed mastic sap. Local produce is even used as decoration, from octopus tentacles strung up outside beachside tavernas to fat garlands of tomatoes ripening in the sun on stone walls. The perfect way to discover Chios' foodie heritage is a guided walk with Vassilis Ballas. He's a Chiot with a wealth of knowledge of local history, and left a job in an office in Athens to return to the island and help visitors discover its gastronomical past. We met Vassilis in medieval Mesta village and he walked us through the quiet stone archways and empty corners of this peaceful old place, spinning tales as we went of what life was like for the farmers who harvested mastic here. There are 24 mastic villages, each different and uniquely decorated, but Mesta was my favourite. Designed to be an inpregnable and confusing fortress to would-be thieves, it appears to be just a huge, rather off-putting wall from outside. But venture in through the gates and you'll find a magical, secret settlement - a warren of tightly-packed stone cottages and narrow cobbled streets. Vasillis explained that the houses are so close together that villagers can visit each other by climbing over the roofs. We walked past shaded squares and locals sitting at wooden tables drinking 'souma', a potent local liquor made of distilled figs and grapes. We eventually found the old gate again and ventured out into the mastic groves, full of little, wizened trees hunched over like old men. Vassilis taught us the fine art of harvesting mastic sap, once worth its weight in gold to trade and still used to flavour desserts, as medicine or as a unique chewing gum. Vassilis showed us how to take a sharp little knife and make nicks in the scarred bark of our chosen tree victims. Sap immediately began to ooze out, liquid and sticky. Older cuts on the trees yielded hard jewels of the sap - when they fall to the ground they are ready to be collected. We tried doing as the Chiots do and chewing on the mastic tears - they have a delicate piney taste and are surprisingly refreshing. Another delightful place to discover the heritage of Chios is hidden in the shady glades of the area of Kampos. Founded by Genoese invaders in the 14th century, this fertile part of the island is dotted with Italian-style villas, citrus orchards and flower gardens, and one of the grand old mansions has been lovingly turned into a museum dedicated to the island's citrus fruits. The collection of curios here makes for a fascinating insight into a time when Chiot gentry lived very well indeed from the sale of oranges, which were carefully wrapped in beautifully decorated paper before being shipped around the world. The legacy of the citrus trade lives on in Citrus Chios, a company which still produces a rainbow of incredible preserves, marizipans and sweets delicated flavoured with oranges, lemons and figs. We retired to a table in the museum's shady square for cold Greek frappe coffees and a tasting of the jams and candied fruit on offer, which are traditionally served as 'spoon sweets'. Eaten with a dollop of Greek yoghurt, or just, as the name suggests, with a spoon, they're a deliciously tart end to a meal. Despite how rewarding gastronomic-themed days out are on Chios, there's no need to do any organising to enjoy the pleasure of eating well - just pop into any beachside taverna. They all serve very similar, traditional dishes, and after a few days on the island I gave up trying to navigate my way through menus and just asked the waiters to bring us what they recommended. Try it and your table will groan with bright Greek salads, just-off-the-boat fish and tasty meat dishes, served with glasses of cloudy ouzo or a brain-rattlingly strong coffee. Words by Sian Lewis. --- Sian took a tour of Mesta with Vassilis Ballas of Masticulture Tours, who offers day or evening trips around the village and out into the mastic groves, including a picnic of Chiot produce The Citrus Museum in Kampos can arrange tastings of jams and spoon sweets made by Citrus Chios, also for sale in their shop