As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize, Meera Dattani selects a range of places to eat, from food tours and food parks to locally run cafes and beachside restaurants.
The diversity of food in Belize may seem remarkable, but less surprising when you consider its history. From traditional Maya recipes and Kriol cuisine to Garifuna dishes from the country’s Afro-Indigenous population where coconut, fish and spices are the key, Belize’s food culture and choice is a history lesson in itself. Rice and beans, and beans and rice, are a staple – and no, they’re not the same thing – with chicken, fish and seafood always on the side, while filled corn tacos and tortillas are a mainstay of most Belizean restaurants. For vegetarians, there are always options even if fish, seafood and meat dominate many menus, and friendly staff and chefs are usually happy to make tweaks. If you like things hot, there’s always a bottle of Marie Sharp’s hot sauce nearby…
Some of the local flavours in Belize. Photos: Richard Hammond
There’s no shortage of places to eat in San Pedro but a mile north of the bridge en route to Secret Beach is Belize’s first shipping container food park and beer garden, complete with a saltwater pool, swim-up bar, 18-foot film screen, three restaurants, outdoor games and a dizzying schedule of events from 11am to 10pm daily. While owned by non-Belizeans, there is an emphasis on community events and charities, and a monthly market where sellers come from around Belize to sell their food, crafts and other goods. There's a great selection of dishes – favourites include kung pao egg rolls from Raja, fried sweet plantain from Sol Fresca, and ice cream and shakes at Cool Cone.
This beachfront restaurant is one of the best spots for breakfast and lunch in a place with countless food options. Run by Charlie Sr., Estella, and Charlie Jr. it's a lovely place to start the day with filling breakfast burritos, huevos rancheros, French toast and fresh juices while lunch includes fresh fish, tamales, Kriol rice and beans, sandwiches and more. They also do daily lunch specials like salbutes (deep fried tortillas), empanadas or conch soup with coconut rice. You can also stop by coffee or a drink on your beach walk, and weekend BBQs are advertised on their Facebook page.
Chef Juan’s Kitchen & Pastries, Caye Caulker Sometimes the most unassuming spots turn out to be the best ones, and this is one of those with shared tables and a convivial atmosphere. You can also bring your own beer/wine. Open everyday bar Tuesday from lunchtime onwards, Chef Juan’s Kitchen & Pastries serves up a tasty menu. Favourite dishes include the aromatic seafood curry with coconut milk, jerk conch, and whole red snapper, and spice levels are fairly Belizean so don’t be too gung-ho when asking for ‘extra spicy’… Dessert-wise, it’s the key lime pie has punters salivating (and returning) – get there by mid/late afternoon to avoid missing out on the last slice.
Owned and run by two Belizean sisters, this Belize-owned and run bar on Placencia’s beach, just off the ‘Strip’ is full of life and warmth with colourful furniture, lively staff and a top beachside location. As well as a great selection of reasonably priced cocktails and local beers, they also have a bespoke ‘bitters’ made from local herbs which is delicious (down or sip, as you please). Foodwise, the smoked fish dip with tortilla chips is one of their top sellers, and the fried breadfruit is very more-ish. By night, travellers often flit between here and neighbouring, also Belizean-owned and operated bar Tipsy Tuna, where you can tuck into wings, burgers and wraps, with Garifuna drumming and other events on selected nights.
The daily roasted coffee beans and sublime coffees are not the only reason to visit this airy, inviting upstairs café with a patio in Placencia; they also serve over 30 different seaweed shakes. Seaweed is said to contain a wide variety of vitamins and nutrients and shake flavours include key lime pie, mint ‘n’ chip, and espresso; they are genuinely delicious (and no, you can’t ‘taste’ the seaweed). Brewed Awakenings also serve up tropical fruit smoothies and protein bowls, with ingredients such as aloe vera pods added, plus innovative cakes such as courgette and pineapple muffins and rum and chocolate cake.
One of San Ignacio’s most popular restaurants, Guava Limb deserves its place for its consistently delicious food and fun atmosphere. Fruit and vegetables come from their 32-acre Maya farm in the Macal River valley, and dairy and meat is sourced locally. It’s an eclectic menu with dishes such as shrimp and conch ceviche, Maya farm salad, Indonesian gado-gado, blackened fish and Thai lettuce wraps. And if you fancy burgers, pizza or pasta, they really do come highly recommended here. There’s indoor seating, a large patio, and an upstairs porch – perfect for enjoying coffee with a view over the Macal River.
If you’re after classic, local Belizean and Caribbean dishes in a friendly, family-run setting, Ko-Ox Han Nah ticks all the boxes. Open from 6am, they serve filling Belizean and European-style breakfasts, but it’s the lunch/dinner dishes that stand out, for vegetarians too. There’s an excellent choice of dishes such as coconut rice with beans and chicken while callaloo greens or chaya (similar to spinach) and fried plantain make great sides too, plus Belizean and South Asian curries including a super-hot vindaloo, if you dare. You’ll also find a pretty extensive list of quesadillas, burritos, sandwiches and burgers, and a huge drinks menu including craft beers, local rums, shakes and kombucha.
Right on the water with views of the Caribbean Sea and a soundtrack that ranges from reggae to 80s pop, this 100%-Belizean owned seaside spot is known for its great food, sundowner cocktails and friendly staff. Its ‘cracked conch’ deep-fried fritters, fried fish, ceviche dishes and pulled pork tacos are well-loved by locals and visitors, and they also have a good vegetarian selection including an aromatic coconut vegetable curry and Beyond Meat burgers, steak and pasta dishes, plus a medley of salads, tacos, wraps (including lettuce wraps) and nachos. It’s the waterside setting that really makes this place and it’s well worth coming for a cocktail and snack if nothing else.
With a spacious outdoor deck looking onto the beach, Island Breeze Bar & Grill is a lovely spot in Dangriga (formerly known as Stann Creek Town by colonialists), even if it’s just for a drink and snack. The menu is skewed towards meat, fish and other seafood, but there’s a decent vegetarian selection including chips and salsa, veggie burger and quesadilla, salads, and fried cassava or plantain. The highlights though are dishes like shrimp kabob, arrachera meat tacos, whole fish fillets, and sizzling fajitas, and portions are pretty hearty. Like many spots in Belize, their cocktails and mocktails are worth a swig, and the views make it a top spot for a sunset drink.
Hopkins is widely known as the cultural centre of Belize’s Afro-Indigenous Garifuna culture, and this over-water bar and restaurant on the beach does a great job of celebrating Garifuna and Belizean cuisine, and there’s Garifuna drumming on Thursdays. Coconut milk and fruits such as pineapple and mango make a frequent appearance in dishes created by the village chef, whether fresh lobster (in season), prawns or chicken, and sides include sweet potatoes, yams and cassava, all of it organic. It’s a great place to sip a Belikin or Lighthouse beer or enjoy a slice of cake and coffee. Coffee beans come from Gallon Jug, a Belizean coffee farm, and seasonal desserts include banana bread, sweet potato pudding or ice cream from a Mennonite-run Belizean dairy.
Looking out onto the water, Asha’s Culture Kitchen is a special spot in the coastal town of Punta Gorda (or PG) in Belize’s southern Toledo region. With an emphasis on Kriol cuisine, it’s paradise for seafood lovers especially, with a daily changing menu that may include sustainably caught snapper fillet (sometimes caught by head chef Asha himself), fried conch or the invasive lionfish, while their tropical fruit shakes are a real palate-pleaser. The waterfront deck is also a great place for wildlife-spotting and if you’re lucky, you might just glimpse dolphins or even manatees. There’s live music on occasion which celebrates Belize’s diversity so you could hear Creole or Garifuna drumming or the sounds of Maya marimba. You can also book cooking lessons and sustainable fishing trips.
Right on the seafront at one end of Punta Gorda town, this no-frills, welcoming independent restaurant ticks all the boxes when it comes to great food (and prices). Local and seasonal ingredients shape the Belizean-inspired menu with dishes such as conch coconut curry (they make their own coconut milk) fresh snapper and lionfish (and lobster, in season), as well as serving up global dishes such as pasta, BBQ ribs and onion rings. Even if you don't eat here, come for the juices, said to be the best in town, with innovative combos such as beetroot and ginger, and refreshing, cooling cucumber concoctions.
For characterful places to stay, places of interest and a range of outdoor adventure and carefully crafted community-run cultural experiences, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Belize
Comments