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Writer's pictureRichard Hammond

Places to eat in Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine, here's our pick of places to eat across this fascinating part of southwest France.


Photos: Richard Hammond


Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities



Casa Gaia, 16 bis rue Latour, Bordeaux

A stylish city centre restaurant that focuses on tapas and salads made from seasonal organic ingredients, so expect peas in spring, tomatoes in summer, squash in the autumn and chestnuts in winter. Vegetables, meats and fish are grilled and roasted over a beech wood fire and dishes are served in a large convivial open plan room. It has a 'producers charter', which sets out its policy regarding sourcing its food ethically from artisanal suppliers "who respect the principles of agroecology, living soils, and promote biodiversity", highlighting food diversity, including old varieties and rustic breeds. Its website features nine such suppliers, telling the stories of the people behind the products. Exemplary. casagaia.fr/


Three of the seasonal dishes we ate at Casa Gaia. Photo: Richard Hammond


Zéphirine, 62, rue Abbé de l’Epée, Bordeaux

Tucked away on a side street a stone's throw from Place Gabetta in the heart of downtown Bordeaux, Zéphirine is a Michelin-starred intimate urban diner (the owners call it an 'urban inn'), open for lunch and a more elaborate dinner, with an open kitchen, a small patio terrace for those wishing to dine outside, and even a small delicatessen so guests can take away a few of the delicacies. There's single short menu: you share starters, choose from three meat, fish or vegetarian dishes then choose from a selection of deserts. It's run by an experienced trio of Romain Corbière (who spent 12 years under the tutelage of Alain Ducasse and was given the prestigious job of opening the Alain Ducasse Cooking School in Paris), his sister Marie-Zéphirine and her husband Bertrand Arnauld. 'Zephrine' is their great-great-grandfather's name, so expect age-old recipes conjured with refined expertise; it's outstanding value. zephirine.fr


The menu of the day and two sumptious desserts we ate at the Michellin-starred Zéphirine .

Photos: Richard Hammond


Le Cent 33, 133 rue du Jardin Public, Bordeaux

Close to the Museum of Wine and Trade in the centre of the city, Le Cent 33 is the first restaurant in Aquitaine to be given the EcoTable label (the French eco label for environmentally friendly restaurants) who awarded it two macarons for its 'advanced approach', and a Green Food Ambassador, the focus at this chic bistro-style restaurant is on "seasonal, mostly local and organic" food. The aromatic herbs, red fruits, some vegetables come from its own greenhouse and vegetable garden 'Potager', five minutes from the restaurant. The Michelin star is thanks to Chef Fabien Beaufour (previous restaurants include Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, Patrick Henriroux in Vienne, and New York's Eleven Madison Park) who aims to reflect the seasons "inspired by tradition French cuisine, twisted by the chef's international experiences". A feature of the restaurant is that it uses a robatayaki wood fire pit to prepare some of the dishes. Choose wine from a list of 500 wines, 90% of which is oriented toward organic, biodynamic and natural wines from both large well-know estates to new winegrowers. cent33.com/


Vivants, 13 rue des Bahutiers, Bordeaux

The wooden-framed glass windows of the facade might suggest a traditional, formal atmosphere at this Michelin-starred restaurant, but inside, Vivants is laid back and welcoming. The elaborately decorated dishes – the attention to detail is exceptional – are the hallmark of chef Tanguy Laviale, previously of Garopapilles who also runs the show at the popular Michelin-starred Ressources restaurant, close to Place Tourny. At Vivants, there are three menus of 3, 4, and 5 dishes – expect dishes such as scallops with persimmon and vegetarian tortelli – and choose from a comprehensive list of over 1,000 wines, thankfully a helpful sommelier is on hand to help you pair your selection with your food. restaurantvivants.com

wood frame exterior of restaurant in Bordeaux
Wooden-framed glass windows of Vivants' facade. Photo: Richard Hammond

Restaurant l’Entrepote, 5 rue Albéric Cahuet , 24200 Sarlat la Canéda, The Dordogne Valley Tucked away in a quiet corner of this popular village, just off the Place de la République, Restaurant l'Entrepote is a cosy restaurant with exposed stone walls and a outdoor terrace in a charming, timeless courtyard, serving regional cuisine using fresh market ingredients. There are classic dishes such as goats cheese salad, carpaccio, and magret de canard, but also variations such as pork tacos, calamari, vegetarian tartelette, and pork in a morille mushroom cream sauce. facebook.com/p/Restaurant-LEntrep%C3%B4te-100063596772091/

exterior of restaurant with outdoor tables and chairs
Restaurant l'Entrepote in the picture-postcard village of Sarlat. Photo: Richard Hammond

Chez Paulo, rue Saint Gregoire, Brive

Choose between the characterful outdoor terrace or the cosy interior at this popular 4th generation run bistro (previously known as Les Frangins) in a quiet corner in the heart of Brive. The owner Paul works with many local farms and you can expect beautifully presented dishes, such as red tuna, Limousin beef rib chops, carpaccio and and exquisite rum baba – a soft cake in a delicious rum syrup, with full-course vegan options available. There are more than 200 wines to choose from drawing on Paul's extensive experience as sommelier in a Michelin-starred restaurant. chez-paulo-restaurant-brive.eatbu.com

signage for restaurant in Bordeauz
Chez Paulo is tucked away in a quiet corner of Brive. Photo: Richard Hammond

Café du Commerce, 1 rue des Halles, Biarritz

A convivial brasserie in a large open plan diner that's part of the Les Halles marketplace in the centre of Biarritz. After browsing the small shops for seafood, cheese, cured meats, come here for coffee, tapas or gourmet French cuisine, including confit de canard, grilled squid, and mussels. The emphasis is on seasonal food using fresh, local products. cafeducommerce-biarritz.com


Restaurant Arraina - La Table Marine, 39 Av du Commandant Passicot 64500 Ciboure A popular seafood and grilled fish restaurant on the promontory overlooking the bay of Saint Jean de Luz. Choose between the cosy interior or outdoor on the sunny terrace overlooking the harbour. There's a range of dishes such as oysters, shrimps, grilled prawns, crab salad, grilled squid, sole, and trout gravlax. arraina-latablemarine.fr


La Belle Epoque, 25 rue d'Angoulême, Cognac

Within the Hotel Heritage in the centre of Cognac, the elaborate cuisine of this warm, friendly restaurant matches the warm red, blue and purple tones of the neat belle epoque grandeur. Chef Aurélien Villard took over the running of the restaurant in 2024 with an aim to focus on artisanal and local products. Starters include artichoke hearts and oysters, while mains include seafood platters, beef, and fish from the local auction. In the summer, head outside to the patio for lunch or dinner among the century-old wisteria or recently renovated arcades. hotelheritage.fr/restaurant-la-belle-epoque


Le Cheverny, 57 Avenue Baudin, Limoges A family run restaurant in the heat of Limoges that prides itself on seasonal regional flavours selected by chef Estelle Palard Kuhler. Choose from four to seven courses in the large main dining area for up to 100 or the light airy terrace pergola overlooking the railway. Dishes include flambéd shrimps, beef entrecôte, and marinated chicken. lecheverny.fr


Restaurant Dyades - Domaine des Etangs, Le Bourg, Massignac The main elegant Michelin-starred restaurant on the magnificent sprawling a five-star chateaux estate of Domaine des Etangs. Seasonal produce is harvested 'farm to table' from the estate's 21,000 square foot certified organic garden and from local producers earning the restaurant two Ecotable awards – for its commitment to sustainable development and permaculture. A market lunch is available Monday to Saturday and non-resident guests are welcome for lunch and dinner in the splendour from Wednesday to Saturday. fr.aubergeresorts.com/domainedesetangs/dine


La Cuisine du Cloître, rue des Allois, Limoges

Within a 17th Century convent adjacent to the city's cathedral in the heart of the historic district of Limoges, Michelin-starred chef Guy Queroix (president of the Toques Blanches du Limousin and member of the Culinary College of France) has put market-fresh cuisine centre stage in this stunning restaurant mixing "tradition, innovation and seasonality" in a setting that combines wood, stone and contemporary decor. Among the choice of menus is a 'Return from the Market' midweek special (Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays), which celebrates fresh produce brought in to the kitchen directly from the city's main market, Halles de Limoges. la-cuisine-du-cloitre.fr


Chez Flo restaurant, 9 rue Saint-Barthélémy, Parentis-en-Born Billed as a 'bistronomic' restaurant, Chez Flo's owners say their role is "to highlight the work of our producer partners", many of which it lists on it website, including La Bruyere Farm, The Gardens of Craoueyres, Oleanders, and Prukibio. Its lunch dishes mainly contain local and seasonal products, and it changes its menu each month to reflect the fruits of the relevant time of year: "When we develop dishes, we tell a story; the story of Women and Men producers, farmers, fishermen, winegrowers, friends and all passionate people...we are convinced that this sensitivity is felt on the plate! chezfloparentis.fr/


Les Amants du Marché, 1 rue Bourbaki, Pau A vegan and vegetarian organic restaurant serving dishes with ingredients sourced from the nearby organic market, such as smoked tofu aranchini, moussaka and green bean pies with peppers, caramelised onions, pesto and raw vegetables. Adjacent to the restaurant is its own ethical shop, "Otherwise", selling designer items, including clothes, toys, jewellery, and cosmetics made from recycled materials or organic and raw materials. lesamantsdumarche.fr



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For nearby characterful places to stay, sights of interest and outdoor adventure activities, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine



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