top of page
Writer's pictureRichard Hammond

Outdoor adventure in Nouvelle-Aquitaine

As part of our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine, here's our pick of outdoor activities across this beautiful part of southwest France.


Photos left to right: Family boating in Marais Poitevin, known as 'Green Venice': Mathieu Anglada @CRTNA; Traffic-free cycling on the Vélodyssée: Alban Gilbert @CRTNA; Land art at Lac de Vassivière. Photo: Perinaud @CRTNA; Cycling in Bordeaux: Vincent Bengold/Bordeaux Tourism; Surfing: Federation Francaise de Surf/JUSTES @CRTNA; Canoeing on the Dordogne. Photo: Akim Benbrahim/Sarlat Tourism; Hiking the GR Bordeaux Métropole: Richard Hammond; Wine tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion: Richard Hammond; Cycling along the Flow Velo: Nicola Forsyth


Google map: shows the location and details of all the places to stay, local food and drink, nearby visitor attractions and activities in our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine

Green = Places to stay Blue = Food & drink Yellow = Attractions Purple = Activities



two woman with bikes looking at historical ruin
Seeing the sights of Bordeaux by bike. Photo: Richard Hammond

Guided bike tour of Bordeaux Graceful and beguiling, Bordeaux is a city relishing its joie de vivre – years after the restoration of its centre restored the original golden hues of its buildings, residents and visitors alike are exploring its UNESCO-protected historic centre and sipping coffees in its numerous cafés. With first-rate museums and galleries, splendid architecture and a wealth of restaurants, squares, and shops, Bordeaux is a pint-sized rival to Paris: but with its own distinct charms and without the capital’s tourist hordes.


Cycling is a great way to get around the city. There are over 1,100km of cycle paths across the entire Metropole so there are plenty of options whether you want to go for a few hours, a full day, or longer. Bordeaux Tourism recommends the Roger Lapébie cycle path which follows an old railway line away from the city towards Créon or La Sauve, home of the magnificent Abbey of La Sauve-Majeure. There are also several parks on the outskirts of Bordeaux worth visiting, including Hermitage in Lormont, the Majolan in Blanquefort, and the ecological reserve of the Barails, to the north.


Over 1,100km of cycle paths across Bordeaux. Photo: Vincent Bengold/Bordeaux Tourism

For advice on the best cycle routes both within the city and on its outskirts, Esprit Cycles has been renting (as well as selling) bikes in the city centre since 2009 and has a range of bikes for all ages and abilities, including electric bikes. Bordeaux Bike Experience runs several tours of the city: its 'Essentials' trip last for a few hours and is billed as a 'gentle', covering about 15km along the quays to see some of the city's latest innovations "without straying too far from the architectural and historical treasures of the city centre", including the city's spectacular neoclassical architecture; it's 'Big Ride' is a full day's outing covering 25km that goes to the old part of the city as well as out into the countryside to some of the vineyards at the edge of Bordeaux. It also includes a 'pause gourmande' lunch stop at a typical local brasserie for you to sample classic Bordeaux gastronomy. It also offers private tours for those wanting to do something different, such as a night tour, include a wine tasting, ride by the sea, etc.


GR Bordeaux Métropole” hiking trail The first urban Grande Randonnée (GR), or long-distance hiking trail, in France, the route winds through seventeen of the territory's 28 municipalities along its 160km length. Peppered along its path are 11 idiosyncratic suburban shelters where you can pre-book, for free, to stay overnight. Simple walking itineraries konwn as 'Super balades" have been devised for a range of options, from those wishing to go for just a 40 minute stroll to a full day's walking. See below for the map of these routes. bordeaux-metropole.fr



A stretch of the GR Bordeaux Métropole” hiking trail that Green Traveller's Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth walked with local guide Dominique Busnel in the summer of 2024. Top right is 'The Cloud', one of the suburban shelters that you can book to stay overnight on the trail. Photos: Richard Hammond


Wine-tasting at Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion Think you know Saint Emilion Merlot? A tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion will put your knowledge to the test. With over 80 years of experience, representing more than 12% of the entire Saint-Émilion AOC, the Union supports 145 winegrowers across 600 hectares of vines. It is a sustainable cooperative known largely, like so many local producers, for its Merlot; its wines can be tasted by the glass at its HQ in Saint-Émilion (a short walk from the railway station) where over 50 châteaux and various branded wines are on sale, or straight from the co-operative’s wine truck at local producers’ and farmers’ markets. udpse.com

woman drinking from a glass of wine
Wine tasting at The Union de Producteurs de Saint-Émilion. Photo: Richard Hammond
vineyard and trees
One of the vineyards in Saint Emilion. Photo: alxpin\iStock

Hiking along the Chemin d'Amadour, Dordogne Valley Join this historic long-distance pilgrimage route that runs from Soulac-sur-mer on the Atlantic Coast inland to Rocamadour, through some of the most beautiful landscapes in southwest France (such as the Gironde estuary, the Entre-deux-Mers, the Dropt valley, the Dordogne valley, and the Causses du Quercy) and via several spectacular examples of built heritage (such as those in Bordeaux, Duras, and Bergerac, the numerous châteaux of the Dordogne valley, and the medieval cities of Domme, Sarlat, and Rocamadour). The entire length runs for 500 kilometres and includes 21 stages. Listed by UNESCO as part of the Camino de Santiago heritage, it is named after the legend of Amadour who, in the 1AD landed on the coast of Medoc and founded the first church that became Notre-Dame-de-la-fin-des-Terres in Soulac-sur-Mer. Green Traveller's Richard Hammond and Nicola Forsyth walked part of this trail in the summer of 2024, taking the train from Bordeaux to Le Buisson-de-Cadouin where we walked a six-kilometre section of the Chemin d’Amadour to the spectacular World Heritage Site of the 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin.


The 1,000 year-old Abbey of Cadouin (left and centre) and Cloitre de Cadouin (right).

Photos: Richard Hammond


man on bike cycling on a dedicated greenway
A stretch of the Flow Velo that's on a traffic-free path. Photo: Nicola Forsyth

Breathe in, Breathe out, Pedal... on the Flow Vélo A new 400km cycle route that runs from Sarlat-la-Canéda in The Dordogne Valley to the island of Aix in Charente-Maritime, passing through the Perigord Limousin Regional National Park and Angouleme, along the Charente River, and through the towns of Cognac, Saintes and Rochefort that are designed as 'Art and History' stops along the way.


There's a handy website laflowvelo.com, which lists a range of accommodation along all stages of the route, including campsites, gites, and hotels, flagging up those that are recognised as 'Accueil Vélo' offering specific services for cyclists. It also provides information on bike rental and repair shops, as well as over 30 recommended places to visit should you wish to stop off en route, such as the National Maritime Museum and Treetop Adventure Park in Rochefort, Penloy Castle Park in Port d'Envaux, The Walnut Grove of Borderies in Louzac-Saint-Andre, and the Abbaye aux Dames de Saintes.


Canoeing along the Dordogne River It's no surprise that thousands flock to the Dordogne River each year to go canoeing and kayaking. With calm, crystal-clear waters often enclosed by towering limestone cliffs, an abundance of wildlife on the riverbanks, and a wealth of historic castles, medieval fortresses, and villages dotted along its 130-mile course, it has something for everyone. Declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for its outstanding setting and heritage, there are numerous operators that operate along the river, hiring out the canoes and providing shuttle services to either drive you upstream in a minibus so that you paddle back down the river, or if you set off from the hire centre, they'll pick up at a selected location downstream. Most off half-day excursions (typically 14km) or full days (anywhere between 14km and 28km, depending on your level of fitness and experience. You can also opt for multi-day itineraries, typically 2–5 days, where you stop off en route to stay in campsites. visit-dordogne-valley.co.uk


Canoeing on the Dordogne. Photo: Akim Benbrahim/Sarlat Tourism

Surfing in Biarritz Surfing came to Biarritz (and France) in the 1950s and over the decades it has evolved into a sophisticated year-round sport here on the Atlantic Coast. There are five main places to go surfing: Mirama, which is popular with bodyboarders; the Basque Coast, whose easy waves are great for beginners; Marbella, a favourite with the locals; and Milady, great for experienced surfers at mid-tide. There are about 20 surf schools, such as Biarritz Surf Ocean and Biarritz Association Surf Club that can provide lessons and equipment individually or for groups, for all levels of experience. For a full list of all the schools, including prices, see destination-biarritz.fr

surfer with waves in sea
Pauline Ado surfing off the west coast of France. Photo: Federation Francaise de Surf/JUSTES @CRTNA

Discover Lac de Vassivière, Limoges

A whopping 1,000 hectares of water high up in the mountains of Limousin, Lac de Vassivière is one of the largest artificial lakes in France and an adventure playground for all the family. Beaumont-du-Lac is the focal point but the entire lake attracts tourists all year round. There are trails fo rhiker and mountain bikers through the forests around the lake, a variety of watersports on the lake, and free boat water taxis between the centres at Auphelle, l’Ile de Vassivière, Masgrangeas and Broussas, and for those looking for a more sedate break, there are mini cruises across the lake. Don't miss crossing over the footbridge to the island where there's a sculpture park at the Centre International d'Art et du Paysage. Kids will love Terra Adventure's geocaching treasure hunts and the Vertige Accro (Adventure park) in a forest by the edge of the lake. More information: www.vassiviere.com

land art by lake
Land art at Lac de Vassivière. Photo: Perinaud @CRTNA

Surfing in Les Landes, Atlantic Coast South of Bordeaux, The Landes is a huge expanse of land in the heart of Gascony (it's the second largest department in France) with over 100 kilometres of coastline (including 15 seaside resorts) bordered by a dune ridge all the way from the mouth of the Adour river in the south up to Biscarrosse, just south of the Bay of Arcachon. The forest that covers nearly 60% of the area is Europe's largest pine forest, and there is also a series of vast freshwater lakes, as well as marshes and wetlands that are an important wintering ground for migratory birds. The extensive coastline attracts surfers of all abilities; surfing hotspots such as La Gravière in Hossegor, Les Estagnots in Seignosse, La Piste, Santocha in Capbreton, draw the best surfers in the world but there are many more in between, such as Labenne, Soustons, and Moliets that depending on the conditions, can be as attractive for novices. The website guide-des-landes.com lists a range of surf schools at all the major surfing sites in Les Landes. See also: landes-holidays.com

surfer with surf board looking out to sea
Surveying the surf at Les Landes. Photo: S Pailloncy @CRTNA

Cycling on the Vélodyssée, Atlanic Coast

Launched in 2012 as part of the Atlantic Coast Route - EuroVelo 1, La Vélodyssée is a 1,300km marked cycle route down the Atlantic west coast of France, running all the way from Roscoff in Brittany to the border town of Hendaye. For those that like their cycling free of cars, over three quarters of the route is on traffic-free paths. The section of the route in Nouvelle-Aquitaine starts from La Rochelle and travels via 17 stages, such as Rochefort, Hourtin-Plage, Arcachon, Capbreton, and Biarritz passing numerous coastal villages and attractive harbours, through a range of terrain, including pine forests and alongside canals, with lots of opportunities to spot flora and fauna en route, particular in sections that pass nature reserves. The dedicated website cycling-lavelodyssee.com contains lots of useful information to help plan cycling all or part of the route, including GPS tracking and links to businesses along the route that have the 'Accueil Vélo' label, which means they satisfy a set of criteria that welcome cyclists, such as they are less than 5km from the route, have facilities for cyclists, such as secure bike storage, bike rental, washing machines, etc. amd provide useful information, such as weather forecasts. The website also features a section on The 10 Commandments of Sustainable Tourism, which includes information on caring for nature along the route, reducing waste, buying local, and suggestions for taking eco-friendly kit.

two cyclists with paniers on traffic-free cycle path
Traffic-free cycling on the Vélodyssée. Photo: Alban Gilbert @CRTNA

Cycling on the Vélosud, Pyrennees Although this 650km cycle route crossed the Pyreneean range, it's billed as a more relaxing alternative to the Vélodyssée, as it runs along the moderate slopes of the foothills of this scenic natural border from Biarritz on the west Atlantic coast to Le Barcarès on the Mediterranean coast, split into 13 stages across the six mountain departments: Pyrénées-Atlantiques; Hautes-Pyrénées; Haute-Garonne; Ariège; Aude; and Pyrénées-Orientales. The majority of the route is on roads shared with traffic, but along the way there are some utterly gorgeous stretches along traffic-free trails - about a third of the route is either on greenways or cycle paths and lanes, such as the section on the stage between Salies-de-Béarn to Orthez where you cycle on a former railway line in the Gave de Pau Valley. The section in Nouvelle-Aquitaine runs from Biarritz to Pau, following beaches, fishing harbours, and the banks of rivers through picturesque countryside. Access the route from railway stations at either end - in the west, at Biarritz (on the high-speed line Bordeaux to Hendaye) where there's a 5km cycle link from the station to the main beach Grande Plage de Biarrtitz, at Pau (end point of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine section), and in the east, at either Rivesaltes railway station or Perpignan railway station – both are connected to Narbonne and Toulouse, and on the TER regional trains you can transport your bike for free with a reservation. en.francevelotourisme.com


Explore Marais Poitevin – 'Green Venice' The protected Poitevin marshes, just a few kilometres from the city of Niort (the only city in France to be in a Natural Park), extending from the Bay of Aiguillon up to a manmade area known as 'Green Venice', is a 100,000 hectare site that's a maze of waterways containing a rich variety of biodiversity, including 250 species of birds, nearly 40 species of fish, 60 species of dragonflies, 80 species of butterflies, and over 130 species of flora that are unique to the area. The best way to explore the canals, channels and conches of the Green Venice section is by boat or canoe and there are plenty of boatman guides (similar to the gondoliers in Venice) on hand to help you reach the best places. Alternatively, you can rent a boat and discover this spectacular nature reserve for yourself. The website niortmaraispoitevin.com lists over a dozen operators who provide boats and guides with suggested tours from a few hours to all day.

people on boat on river
Taking the slow route, boating in Green Venice. Photo: F.ROCH @CRTNA

==

For nearby characterful places to stay, local food and drink, and local sights of interest, see our Green Traveller's Guide to Nouvelle-Aquitaine



Comments


bottom of page